Stirring Times, or, Records from Jerusalem Consular Chronicles of 1853 to 1856. By ... J. F. ... Edited and compiled by his widow [E. A. Finn] . With a preface by the Viscountess Strangford

Front matter

STIEEING TIMES VOL. THE INNER LIFE OF SYRIA, PALESTINE, AND THE HOLY LAND. By MRS. RICHARD BURTON With Maps, Photographs, and Coloured Plates. 2 vols. Second Edition. Demy 8vo. cloth, price 24s. ' Vivid pictures of the outer as well as the inner life of Syria.' Pall Mall Gazette. ' Her account of harem life is one of the best and most truthful that has yet appeared.' Academy. ' Vivid, clever, and brilliant sketches of Damascus and the Mahon medan and Christian races of Syria.' Edinburgh Review. C. KEGAN PAUL & CO., 1 Paternoster Square, London. THE ENGLISH CHURCH. & CO'N SI/LATE , AND THE TOWER OP DAVID I.ABim,Dd.t. STEERING TIMES OH RECORDS FROM JERUSALEM CONSULAR CHRONICLES op 1853 to 1856 BY THE LATE JAMES FINN, M.R.A.S. MEMBER OF THE SOCl£T6 ASIATIQDE DE PARIS J HER MAJESTY'S CONSUL FOR JERUSALEM AND PALESTINE FROM 1845 TO 1863 J PRESIDENT OF THE JERUSALEM LITERARY SOCIETY FROM 1849 TO 1863 J AUTHOR OF ( BYEWATS IN PALESTINE' 'SEPHARDIM' 'ORPHAN COLONY OF JEWS IN CHINA* EDITED AND COMPILED BY HIS WIDOW WITH A

Preface

BY THE VISCOUNTESS STKANGFOED Dieux el veult. Deus vult. (Council of Clermont) IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. II. LONDON C. KEGAN PAUL & CO., 1 PATERNOSTER SQUARE (The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved) pace CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER XVIII.

reign of yakoob pasha — Continued. Summer encampment— Country quiet— Consular tour to Caifa and Acre — Bedawi incursions in Samaria and over Esdraelon — Abdu'l Hadi's reverse of fortune — Prosperity of Caifa — Scene in presence of the Pasha at Acre — Use of the proscribed epithet ' Ghiaour ' — Reminiscences of British valour at Acre— Major Oldfield— Sir Sidney Smith — Richard Cœur de Lion — Mr.Sekali at Caifa — Anecdotes of Abdallah Pasha's cruelties to Christians — Shaikh Daher — Kadi at Caifa on the English religion — Recovery of property for Jewish proteges — Country of Josephus around Sepphoris — Nazareth — Raid of Bedaween — Incidents by the way — All quiet at Jerusalem .3

CHAPTER XIX. EEIGN OF YAKOOB PASHA AND HIS DEATH.

Country quiet — Moslem children singing under our windows before their Festival — The Jerusalem garrison — Reviews by the Pasha — Turkish soldiers in Christchurch — Discharge of cannon into Consulate and Church — Punishment of the Gunner — Disturbances in Hebron — 'Ahderrahhman el 'Amer again — Moslems of Hebron appeal to the Consulate — Troubles in Bethlehem — Jews at Rachel's Sepulchre not molested — Safety of British residents — Moslems of Hebron petition the Consul — News of the progress of the War — Raising of Troops — News from Persia and Bokhara — Russian descent upon Palestine by the Euphrates and North-East feared — News of the invasion of the Crimea by allied Armies — The fears of the Christians at an end — Return from summer encampment into Jerusalem — Death of Yakoob Pasha, and sale of his plate and jewels VI CONTENTS OF PAGE 55

CHAPTER XX. THE JEWS IN

185 4. Condition of the Jews in 1854 — Permission obtained for rebuilding the Synagogue of the Ashkenazim— Jews of Safed and Tiberias protected by M. Finzi, British agent at Acre, and by Mr. Rogers, Vice- Consul at Caifa — Karaite Jews — Fearful distress among Jerusalem Jews — Failure of funds — Scarcity of corn in the market — Inclement winter weather — British Consulate beset by starving people — Efforts for their relief — Pauperism of the Jews in Jerusalem — No employment for them — Compulsory idleness— Attempt to give them agricultural employment — Industrial Plantation — Hundreds apply for work — Women at Miss Cooper's school — Opposition — Sir M. Montefiore and Messrs. Rothschild send relief— The Jewish messengers to other Lands — Chief Rabbi prepares to go to Europe — Death of the Chief Rabbi in Egypt on his way to Europe — Arrival of M. Cohn from Paris — His efforts to found Schools and Industrial Institutions —Opposition of the Rabbis— Their theory — Evils of the System — The leading Jews in America and Europe now recognize need of Industrial Institutions for Jerusalem

CHAPTER XXI. JERUSALEM LITERARY SOCIETY AND JERUSALEM ENGLISH COLLEGE.

First suggestion for founding a Literary Association and Library made in 184fr — Literary Society founded at the British Consulate, November 1849 — Approved by Lord Aberdeen, Vice-Patron — The Archbishop of Canterbury (Howley), Patron — The Prince Consort gives 251. — The King of Prussia gives permission for free use of the Royal Library about to be established in Jerusalem — Weekly meetings held — Library and Museum begun — Assyrian Antiquities sent by Layard — Samaritan MS. bought for the Library — Objects of the Society — Study of Bible manners and customs — Ancient Languages — Numismatics, Geology, and Natural History — Ancient Religions — Architecture — Painting — Sculpture — Music — Exhibition of Palestine coins — Topographical research — Excavations — Botanical Garden — Biblical Museum of Natural History — Attendance of distinguished travellers — Residence of Holman Hunt and Seddon — Foundation of the College — useful for natives, Europeans, young clergy and students of all nations — begun, April 1854 — Rev. J. W. Beamont, M.A., Trin.

Coll., Camb., First Principal — Students— Lectures — Failure THE SECOND VOLUME. VII PAGE 144 of Funds in 1855 — Appendix — Address of Literary Society's Pre sident in 1853 — Discovery of Ashes of the Temple Sacrifices — Liebig's Analysis — Mr. Dickson's letter — Mr. Finn's discoveries of Almon, Antipatris, Sychar, &c. &c 89

CHAPTER XXII. NEWS FROM THE CRIMEA.

News of investment of Sebastopol — Russians not known hitherto to the Palestine Moslems — Christians excited — Rivalries between Greek and Latin Churches stirred afresh — Ideas of the Jews about Russian invasion — Meeting at Consulate for the Patriotic Fund — Jerusalem the central point of the Eastern Question, but no longer kept in view by the Combatants — Letter from Balaclava by a Chaplain in the British Army — Cossacks ' bons pour tuer les blesses ' — Battle, 93rd Highlanders and charge of the Greys — The Charge of the Light Brigade mentioned — The one idea of the wounded, ' that they had done their duty ' — The Russians in Asia — Fall of Kars — The Greek Christians loyal to the Sultan — They do not desire to be subject to Russia — Feelings of the Germans — Rumours — Sardinia joins the Alliance — Absence of British ships from coast of Palestine — Death of the Emperor Nicholas 126

CHAPTER XXIII. CURRENT EVENTS IN PALESTINE.

No Pasha in Jerusalem — The Turkish Commandant's ideas of rule — Arrival of a temporary Governor, Rasheed Pasha — Attempted assassination of a native Moslem — Mr. Holman Hunt's account of his journey from the South end of the Dead Sea — Journey northwards — Condition of Nabloos — The Rev. John Bowen — His * at homes ' — Topics of Conversation — Mr. Bowen's philanthropic plans — Village of Sanoor — Nazareth — Mr. Bowen's Sermons — Christian released from prison — Tiberias — Bassa near the Mediterranean — Tyre — A Christian wife of a Moslem Negro — Antiquities for the Jerusalem Museum — Ruins at Um el Awameed — A Greek Catholic Priest at Nakhora — Acre — Christian Priest's house at Burkeen — Passing through the hostile Arab forces at Burka — Report to the Governor at Nabloos — Indian Moslems at the spring of Beere — Turkish Governor sent to Nabloos— Has to fight his way — Journey east of Jordan — In returning protects some poor women from their enemies — Arabs from East of Jordan join in the fighting— Native population and Turkish rule CONTENTS OF VIII PAGE

CHAPTER XXIV. MAKING PEACE AND SAVING LIFE.

War again between Othman el Lehham and the South-Western villages — The Kawwas sent to inquire brought home proofs of cruel slaughter — Deep snow on the ground — All cultivation suspended during the fighting throughout January — Early in February, news being worse, the Consul goes there himself — Sowing season almost at an end — Arrival at Shocoh — Reception by 300 armed men at Bait Nateef — Complaints of the women of 'Othman el LehMm's cruelties — Night scene — Conference with the Shaikhs — Mohammed 'Attalah and his people about to storm Bait 'Atab — Advantages of prompt and fearless measures — Daybreak — March of the Army — Consul followed to urge suspension of hostilities — Abu Gosh and his people found to be present and involved — Abu Gosh in possession of Bait 'Atab — and 'Othman el Lehham a prisoner in his own house — Scene at the Council — A man's life saved — Consul proposes to Abu Gosh measures for stopping the bloodshed — and a Truce for two months to give time for ploughing and sowing Council of War in an unfinished house — Truce concluded and delivered to the Consul — Release of the sheep and goats for pasture — Sowing and ploughing — Ride back to Jerusalem after thirty hours' absence — Ferment still among other village factions — Villages ruined — Incident at Urtas— Escape for life to refuge within house of British subject — Mediations for peace — Kiamil Pasha's arrival — French Consul's intervention among the village Shaikhs 193'

CHAPTER XXV ROYAL VISITORS.

Kiamil Pasha — Royal visits — Arrival of Duke and Duchess of Brabant — State entry into Jerusalem — Literary Society's meeting — Ashes of Temple Sacrifices — The Jews and their feelings— Complaints of Durweeshes — Palm Sunday at English Church — Candlestick presented by Jews at Rachel's Sepulchre — Good Friday — Samaritan visit — First public Christian entrance into the Hhararn or Noble Sanctuary on Temple Mountain of Moriah — Church of the Holy Sepulchre lit up on Easter Eve — Easter Day — Service at the English Church — French Empress expected — Archduke Maximilian of Austria's visit in June, and his entrance to the Hhararn — Incident at Mount Carmel about the French flag — Elation of the Latins — Hluminations in honour of the Papal Bull of the Immaculate Conception — Creation of Knights of the Holy Sepulchre THE SECOND VOLUME. IX PAGE 266

CHAPTER XXVI. SUCCOUR TO THE WEAK.

Oppressed Communities — Samaritans, Abyssinians, Jews, Syrians, and others — Relief extended to them by means of Friendly Offices .

CHAPTER XXVII. INSURRECTION ATTEMPTED AND PUT DOWN.

'Abderrahhman el 'Amer once more in revolt — Critical condition of Hebron and South Palestine — Mehemet Kubrisli Pasha, Commander-in-Chief in Damascus — Council of Consuls summoned by the Pasha — Nabloos also disturbed — Pasha marches out with the Garrison and the Field-pieces — Safety for British residents even now — Pasha's visit to Urtas — Attempt to catch Saf ez Zeer — Seizure of wrong men — Pasha marches for Hebron — Invites Consuls to send their deputies with him to watch operations against 'Abderrahhman el 'Amer, who is proclaimed a rebel, and his brother is appointed Shaikh in his place — Siege of Idna — Intrigues and Treachery — Vice-Consul Rogers discovers that one mortar is spiked — He points the other — The Pasha fires — Idna is won — Treachery of the Turkish Commander — Plot to cut off the Pasha's retreat b}' taking Hebron in his rear — 'Abderrahhman's European friends — Good effects of the capture of Idna — Shaikh Muslehh's submission to the Pasha — 'Abderrahhman takes flight — ■ Complaint made of the Turkish Commanders conduct — Strange result — Korban Bairam Festival at Pasha's Camp at Hebron — Peace restored in South Palestine and intrigues checked — Sebastopol still untaken — Unfriendly rumours — Tales of bribery circulated against the Pasha. — 'Abderrahhman el 'Amer remains at large — Recruiting for the Land Transport Corps 285

CHAPTER XXVIII. CONDITION OF THE JEWS IN JERUSALEM IN

1855. Employment of Jews and Jewesses — Industrial Plantation — Miss Cooper's School — Grievous distress — Wretched abodes — Visit of Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore to the Holy Land— Their entrance to the Temple Sanctuary on Moriah — Purchase of land for charitable Institutions —Visit to Hebron 320

CHAPTER XXIX. REJOICINGS AT THE FALL OF SEBASTOPOL.

Consular tour of iuspection northwards — Holy Cross Day — Abu Gosh village — Ramlah Consular Agents — New Turkish Commandant — Jaffa vol. H. a CONTENTS OF X PAGE and its one gate — Jewish funeral — Caifa— Peasant women and wedding parties — Acre garrisonless — Laughable attempt to do the honours in presenting arms — Camel convoy of grain for the Army — News at Tyre of Victory — Sebastopol taken — Rejoicings and Illuminations — Rejoicings at Sidon — Discovery of the Phœnician Sarcophagi — Leba non — Fine Scenery — Among the Christians — Hhasbeya — Native Pro testants — The Emir Sa'ad ed Deen— His hospitality and kindness to Christians — Visit to his Hareem — Journey to Tibneen — Reception — Glorious Scenery — Followers of 'Ali — Their Banner — On to Safed and Tiberias — Morning Star over the Lake — Anecdotes and talk with Jews about Samaritans — The Cholera — Journey to Nazareth — Read ing Letters from Jerusalem — News of the Dluminations and Rejoic ings about Sebastopol — British flag hoisted in Jerusalem — Austrian and French Flags hoisted — French Flag saluted with Cannon — Mimic bombardment — Visit to Mount Tabor — The Russian Hermit — At Nabloos — Rev. J. Bowen — Meeting with Travellers including Holman Hunt — Bible Class of natives — Sunday Arabic Services — Samaritans — Improvement in behaviour of Nabloos Moslems — Return to Jeru salem — Honourable reception, and British Flag flying over the Consulate 340

CHAPTER XXX. ROYAL BIRTHDAYS AND NATIONAL FLAGS.

Royal birthdays — Salute of Cannon for the Queen's birthday — Ideas of the ignorant Moslems about European Sovereigns — Other Royal birthdays observed in the same way — The French Emperor's on August 15 ■ — M. Botta had left Jerusalem— The French relations with Turkish authorities — Sultan's grandmother a Frenchwoman — The Austrian Fete, August 19 — Austrian Flag in Bethlehem — Austrian Hospice in Jerusalem — Apartments for the Pope — New French Consul arrives — Status of France on account of the Christian Protectorate — Adherents among the natives — 'Abderrahhman el 'Amer reinstated at Hebron — The Fete day of the Prussian King — Inauguration of the Prussian Flag — Proposal by the Spanish Consul — Spanish Party disliked French Supremacy — Affair at Ain Karem — Friendly relations with French Officials — Magazine of French powder — French Ascendancy distasteful to Germans — British Consulate not involved in questions of ' Christian Protectorate,' or in any similar difficulties The ' English word ' — Opportunities for doing good to the Christians, as well as to all classes, enjoyed by Great Britain — These opportunities let slip, and wasted after the Crimean War .... THE SECOND VOLUME. XI

CHAPTER XXXI. DROUGHT AND SCARCITY.

PAGE Scarcity of rain — and high prices of corn — Public fasts — Procession round dome of the Rock — Pasha, attended service in English Church — Rainfall and snow — Government Granaries — Frauds of the Official Inspectors — Bribery and cheating — The Effendis too strong for the Pasha — The Jews suffer much — Some at work at Sir M. Montefiore's buildings — Some at the Austrian Hospice — Foimtain flowing down the Lower Kedron 404

CHAPTER XXXII. THE WAR ENDED.

News of successes in the Crimea — Affairs in Armenia — as bearing on India— Arrival of Colonel Walpole with his Bashi-Bozuk — He visits the Temple Sanctuary — Tidings that the War is over — Pilgrims arrive — Latin Easter — News of the Sultan's Edict of Toleration — and of the birth of the Prince Imperial of France — Rejoicings — Great body of Christians and European travellers are admitted to the Temple Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . . .411

CHAPTER XXXIII. UNEXPECTED TROUBLES.

Festivities in Nabloos on Birth of French Prince Imperial — The Agent puts up Flags — The English Bishop erects a Bell over his School Chapel — Moslem fanaticism — Demonstration before Mosque Prayers on Friday — Accident by which the Rev. S. Lyde's gun goes off and kills a Moslem — Rising against the Christians, and Murder of the Prussian Agent's Father — Flags and the Bell torn down — Vice-Consul sent to fetch Mr. Lyde — His trial in Jerusalem — Justice not yet obtained against the Nabloos rioters 424

CHAPTER XXXIV. THE SULTAN'S EDICT OF TOLERATION PROCLAIMED.

The Hatt-i-Humayoon, or Edict of Toleration, proclaimed — Heads of Churches and Foreign Consuls invited to be present — Some arrived in full Uniform — The Edict unpopular among Moslems of the old School — Summary of the most important provisions contained in the Edict — Crowning act of Lord Stratford de Redcliffe's career — Reli- CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME. XII PAGE gious equality in Turkey— The Turks not to be blamed for some delay in enforcing the new laws — The task was a difficult one — Less so in Jerusalem— Turkey a ' political necessity'— She must give full equality to her subjects— There was more religious toleration in Turkey than in several Christian lands in Europe— The Turks being neutral among them, oblige the Rival Christian Churches to suffer each other's existence *"

CHAPTER XXXV. PROCLAMATION OF PEACE.

KIAMIL PASHA. Salute from the Castle Battery announces the Peace— The Turkish troops paraded on the Maidan once more for prayers and thanksgivings — General Rlumination — Kiamil Pasha. — His character, and eventful career in Jerusalem 452

CHAPTER XXXVI. FIGHTING IN THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE

— PRAYERS FOR OUR QUEEN IN THE NEW JEWISH SYNAGOGUE ON ZION. Oriental Easter arrived, Christian and Moslem pilgrims numerous — Jewish Passover — Fight between Armenians and Greeks in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre about the Holy Fire — Pasha hurt — Turkish Colonel wounded and many of the troops — Destruction of sacred pictures and vessels — Precautions taken by the Turks in the Church and in the streets for Easter Day — Pilgrims ordered to leave Jerusalem on pain of imprisonment — The Holy Fire or Light — New Jewish Synagogue in Jerusalem — Religious service within its walls — Prayers for H.M. the Queen 457

CHAPTER XXXVII. CONCLUDING CHAPTER BY THE EDITOR BRIGHT HOPES NOT FUL- FILLED

PROSPECT OF TURKISH REGENERATION. Congratulatory address to Lord Stratford de Redcliffe — His remarks on the policy of the British Government and the benevolence of the Sultan — The duty of true friends of Eastern Christians, especially of England — Prospects of success — The neglect of the English people — Turkish Investments — Danger of neglect — Policy of non-intervention — Reaction — Massacres in Syria, 1860 — Active intervention — Need for vigilance — Relief to the wounded and suffering — More neglect — Increase of disorders — England's responsibility — Our duty now . aAhvYebrood/ j.^,^ round JERUSALEM ***" Baiteerv 0 a(B£THEL.) Burranarv M-Tdl o (Al J o Dear Pebwaiv Ram Allah* °Beereh, „„ , 0 °3urh(t -,. • -rr "Bait Unto, ******>. R> ( BETHORONfUPPE/t ) "~^?r Ji •JUaneh. e&M»»<** Mafata ***,-.. c&tlzmJia, eiJeba, Jed&ercth, r„ Pm„ o ai^leŒfn.

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Part II

— continued FROM DECLARATION OF THE WAR TO INVASION OF THE CRIMEA VOL. H. P. CHAPTEE XVm. reign of takoob pasha — continued. Summer Encampment — Country quiet — Consular tour to Caifa and Acre Bedawi incursions in Samaria and over Esdraelon — Abdu'l Hadi's reverse of fortune — Prosperity of Caifa — Scene in presence of the Pasha at Acre — Use of the proscribed epithet ' Ghiaour ' — Reminiscences of British valour at Acre — Major Oldfield — Sir Sidney Smith — Richard Cœur de Lion — Mr. Sekali at Caifa — Anecdotes of Abdallah Pasha's cruelties to Christians — Shaikh Daher — Kadi at Caifa on the English religion — Recovery of property for Jewish proteges — Country of Josephus around Sepphoris — Nazareth — Raid of Bedaween — Incidents by the way — All quiet at Jerusalem. We removed into our summer encampment on June 2nd.

The weather was delightful, and there were no battle shouts such as we so constantly heard last year from the villages. Heaping the wheat harvest had just begun in our neighbourhood, and the peasantry were everywhere busy with their thrashing. By the 10th the heat had risen considerably in consequence of a three days' East, or Sirocco, wind, which set in steadily, though so silently (as is common in one of its forms) that the air was quite still. At night, the moon being full, the sky threatened a storm, being, not blue as usual, but pale grey, with broken clouds in various hues. During the night — somewhere about midnight: — a storm of rain and gusts of wind burst upon us. The tent seemed ready to blow up into the air. The children were carried out through the rain to the house, and the Moslem servants, who were cooking their B OUT IN CAMP.

A NEGRO PILGRIM. dinner (it being then Kamadiln, when men fast by day and eat by night), came after the storm was over to fasten the tent. The other tents in the camp had borne the storm. The change of weather was extraordinary. Such a storm had not occurred in eight years before in summer, and was considered extraordinary by all. The dry earth had become mud, except under the tents, and the smell brought out by the rain was very strong. The wind was strong all next day, but from North-West. The most extraordinary circumstance of a sirocco is the quiet still ness with which such a mass of fine desert sand as is borne in the air covers the sky, till it requires several days of storm from the sea to drive it back. The next evening and night were very cold, and then followed cloudy dewy mornings, with gentle wind — delicious weather, to which we are accustomed in the month of June.

One day a negro of Demarara accosted me — speaking English, of course. He reported himself as a deserter from his ship, the ' East Anglian,' a trader then lying at Jaffa. The desire of seeing Jerusalem had overcome all fear of consequences from his conduct, and he had walked all the way up from the sea coast. He came to me hungry, and with feet much swollen. He described his past life as full of strange adventures. Amono* others he had lived five years in Germany, sometimes as farm servant, sometimes practising feats of leger-de-main and theatrical horsemanship. He had picked up a considerable knowledge of the German language, some Polish and could read and write English well. He said he CONSULAR TOUR. 5 knew the Bible weil, and begged to be allowed to look about the city and ascend the Mount of Olives before being sent back in custody to his ship, for he knew that it was my duty to arrest him at once as a deserter.

I agreed to this petition ; a kawwas was told off to accompany him (as prisoner) to the places he desired to see, and during the time of necessary rest, then to con duct him back, with a letter from myself, to his captain. Soon after he left me a letter arrived from the ship re porting his desertion from duty. After he got back to Jaffa the captain let him off with but a slight penalty, in consideration of the man's good character and ability, as well as from respect for the motive which had led to his irregularity. There was also another reason for this indulgence, namely that no substitute could be found there to do his work. Business requiring my presence in Caifa and Acre in July, I left our encampment near Jerusalem on the 14th, travelling towards Nabloos, which it was my intention to reach on the same day.

In the afternoon, as we approached Nabloos, and were upon the long plain of Mukhneh (i.e., the plain of the ' encampment,' eastward of the town), we found the fields all around the village of Hawara strewn with carcases of cows and oxen. There had been a foray recently made in that neighbourhood by the Beni Sakh'r (wild) Arabs from the East of Jordan, who had carried off a considerable booty of cattle ; but what connection could there be between that and the scene before us ? There was no connection, for we were not long in dis covering that these were the victims of a murrain that CONDITION OF NABLOOS. had been raging for some days past. And there stood the men of the village, gazing at the miserable spectacle in silence and with folded arms, for the carcases, which had lately formed so large a proportion of their property, lay there scattered about in no small numbers, untouched by vultures or the beasts of prey.1 In the same district on a former journey we had witnessed an equal spectacle of misery among the people on account of the prevalence of cholera.

We arrived very late at Nabloos — by dark night — (the journey is commonly divided between two days), and lost our way in the streets till some Tufenkchis (native police) came up with lanterns, and obsequiously led the way to 'Odeh Azam's house, where speedily came, on ceremonial visits, Ali Bek Tokan, the recently installed Governor of the town, with Mustafa Aga Bairakdar, Com mander of Bashi-Bozuk, mentioned elsewhere, and Shaikh Naaman. We discussed the recent disturbances of the place, and the latest revolution of the local government. (The opposite faction of the Abdul Hadi had just been dis possessed in favour of their ancient rivals of the house of Tokan.2) It could not but be observed that the tone and temper of both town and authorities were bettered for us since the commencement of the Eussian War.

It must be remembered that Nabloos is one of the most fanatic and turbulent places in Syria, as has been said before. 1 ' The very vultures turn away And sicken at so foul a prey.' — Lalla Rookh. ~ See Nabloos factions, p. 239. BEDAWEEN OVERRUN ESDRAELON. Next day away on the road early in the morning. At Jeba, while dismounted to have a stone picked from the horse's shoe, I observed some Bedaween walking and riding about — a most unusual circumstance so far in the heart of the country and away from their own deserts. One tall fellow, with handsome pistols and his face muffled almost over in Bedawi fashion during the heat of summer, dismounted from his mare and held out his hand to me. I declined to take it, and said, ' I know not who thou art, nor what is thy tribe.' He answered gruffly, ' The Beni Sakh'r ; this town is half full of us,' and strode away.

I afterwards learned that he had lied, for the wild Arabs around Jeba were Adwan — the Beni Sakh'r were out over the Plain of Esdraelon. By incidents such as these we learned, during the course of travel, the actual condition of the country and bearing of the wild men, who were overrunning the land far on this Western side of Jordan. The day was exceedingly hot. On resting at the conspicuous clump of Karoobah trees before Kabatieh, we could see smoke from extensive fires arising from the plains of Esdraelon, at some distance. This may not necessarily have been the work of Arab mischief among growing crops, but possibly they may have been fires for clearing the ground of huge thistles and other wild pro duce which grew so densely and rapidly there. Beyond Kabatieh we met about a dozen of young peasant women, walking furiously with swinging arms, all carrying small bundles, mostly upon the head.

They REST AT JENEEN. told our muleteer that they were escaping from an inva sion of Arabs into the interior villages. We halted at Jeneen for the night, and remained under the olive trees during the extreme heat of the next day, partly out of mercy to our beasts, and partly from having our own eyes scorched by the sun's reflection from the hot ground in travelling. The road during part of the last day had lain over white chalky ground, and is, perhaps, the hottest bit in the mountains of Palestine. The sense of repose among the trees was delicious, with tall palms in front and a view of the green gardens (from which the ancient Hebrew name of En-gannim, and the modern Arabic name, are both derived), through which a copious stream was flowing with most soothing sound. Near us the villagers were thrashing and win nowing their corn harvest.

The linnets were trilling, the wild doves cooing, and the bee-eaters twittering as they flashed their brilliant colours in the sunlight. Shepherd boys also played on their simple reed-pipes, or chanted the simplest of ditties, as I sat on the canteen, fully enjoying the happy hours. But, by way of contrast, the scene would not be truly Oriental without the drawback of an offensive smell, occasionally, from some unburied animal, or the crawling of ugly lizards about the trees and the stones. At Jeneen one feels to be on the verge of a novel district : it is a place of consequence in both a military sense and as bringing up historical recollections. It was always the pass from Samaria into Galilee, lying within sight of Carmel, Gilboa, Tabor, and the hilly range of 'ABDU'L HAULS REVERSE. 9 Nazareth, with the vast battle-field of Jezreel or Esdrae lon for the foreground.