How I volunteered for 'the Cape,' and what I did there. Being a short history of eight months' service with the Frontier Light Horse operating against the Kafirs, etc

Introduction

. In Avriting the preface to this little Avork I must crave the indulgence of my readers, and trust that they will, if possible, overlook the many shortcomings of this, my first literary effort. The work is, as the title explains, a description of the kind of life I experienced during the eight months that I served in the Frontier Light Horse. My chief object is to impart a few ' wrinkles,' more or less valuable, to such young fellows who may feel inclined to folloAV my example and go out to the Cape on a soldiering expedition ; but, at the same time, I trust that the book will not prove unin teresting to those who perchance have rela tives and friends serving her Majesty in South Africa.

INTRODUCTION.

. I will now explain how it was that I came to volunteer for the Cape. I had always a strong taste for soldiering, but had not the good luck to be in the ser vice. Failing this, I did the next best thing, I became a volunteer. After serving about four years in the Victoria Rifles, I left that force and joined the Middlesex Yeomanry. When I had served about two years and a half in the latter regiment, an opportunity offered itself for me to take a twelvemonth's holiday. The Kafir War had just then broken out, and I thought it a capital chance of seeing what real warfare was like. My motto Avas, ' Stand not upon the order of your going, but go at once'; and in a week's time after I had made up my mind I was off. My military knowledge was confined to Avhat I had picked up in the Volunteers and Yeomanry, added to what I had been able to learn from the Red Books ; but, luckily for me, I Avas in a position to obtain some in fluential letters of introduction to the Lieu tenant-General and to the Governor, and I trusted to these to obtain for me a commis sion in one of the mounted corps then operat-

INTRODUCTION.

. V ing against the Kafirs. Hoav I fared will be seen hereafter. I will no\v proceed to impart to such of my readers as intend going out to the Cape a feAV of the afore-mentioned 'Avrinkles.' First and foremost, Don't take any more luggage than you can possibly help. This advice may sound trivial, but it is not. My experience has been bought very dearly, and I have come to the conclusion that you might just as well get your head shaved and go quietly to a lunatic asylum at once, as be driven there by degrees by having the con stant worry of looking after a heap of useless luggage. I took out a great deal too much, and from the day I started until the day I returned, I never ceased to regret it. It was an endless source of expense and worry. My advice is, take out such old clothes as you may chance to have by you, as they will come in handy during the voyage — ahvays bearing in mind that 'enough is as good as' (and better than) ' a feast.' As regards outfit, don't believe a single word that the outfitters tell you, as they probably know as much about the South African climate as they do about

INTRODUCTION.

. VI flying. If you trusted implicitly to them, you Avould go out Avith a large stock of clothes of gossamer thinness. My own experience of outfitters is that if you order a suit of any stout substance they look horrified, and say, ' Good gracious, sir ! You will never be able to wear such a material in the South African climate.' All nonsense. Just by chance I took out with me a stout ulster, and many is the time I have been glad to Avear it. Of course the South African climate varies a great deal. Generally speaking, in summer it is hot night and day ; but in winter it is hot during the day-time owing to the fierce ness of the sun, but as soon as that goes down, a piercingly-cold wind sets in, and it is bitterly cold all night. So remember, don't discard your warm clothing. You need not go in extensively for an outfit.

A suit of good stout Bedford cord, tAvo or three pairs of Bedford cord pants (strapped), two pairs of high boots (high Wellingtons), one or tAvo pairs of stout lace-up boots, and a pair of leather gaiters. These, with flannel shirts ad libitum, should complete the outfit as far as the Avearing apparel is concerned. In addi-

INTRODUCTION.

. VII tion to these, a good English saddle and bridle, a revolver of 450 bore, and a sword (if you like) is all you need take out. The things I have mentioned are obtained better and ■cheaper in England than in the Colonies ; but such things as blankets, Avaterproof sheeting, and similar articles of outfit, are obtainable in the Colony at very little over the English prices. Having told my readers what outfit I should advise them to take out, I will now give them a short sketch of the history of the regiment which I joined on my arrival in South Africa. The Frontier Light Horse was the only cavalry regiment raised by the Imperial Government during the Kafir Avar. It Avas raised by Lieutenant Carrington, of the 2-24th Regiment, and Avas three squadrons strong. It was paid, equipped, and rationed by the Imperial Government, and had nothing whatever to do with the Colonial Government, receiving orders only from the Lieutenant-General, or from some officer in the regular service. We had no coloured men in the ranks, but our troopers were neces-

INTRODUCTION.

. sarily of a mixed sort ; and, like all other regi ments, we had bad as well as good characters, but I am happy to say the latter predomi nated. Our ranks contained many young fellows Avho had filled good positions in society at home. In my humble opinion they did very well to join, as they were fully equipped, mounted, and last, though not least, well rationed free of expense. If these young felloAvs had joined the Frontier Armed and Mounted Police they would certainly have received a few pence a day more pay, but out of that they would have had to pay for their equipment, horse, and so much a month to the ' Remount Fund.' A recruit, on joining the Police, starts with a debt which takes him eighteen months to pay off, and by that time he requires a fresh outfit. A recruit, on joining ours, engages for six months' service, has everything found him, and at the end of his service, if he chooses to re-engage, he can have such articles of outfit as he requires. Our men were all clothed in cotton-cord suits (black, red facings), ' ammunition ' boots and gaiters, and a Avide-awake hat — colonially

INTRODUCTION.

. IX termed a ' smasher ' — with a red puggaree. They were armed Avith a steel-barrel carbine, slung from the right shoulder and hanging on the left side. The officers wore a black patrol-jacket, tight, black Bedford cord pants, with double red stripe, and wore either helmet or ' smasher ' hat ; arms — revolver and sword. The scale of pay Avas as follows : captains, 1 5s. a day ; lieutenants, 11s. ; regimental sergeant-major, 9s. ; troop sergeant-major, 8s. ; sergeant, 7s. ; corporal, 6s. ; and troopers, 5s. As everything in the way of equipment was found, this pay was very good. Before leaving the subject of the regiment, I should like to draw my readers' attention to the fact that the Frontier Lissht Horse have seen more service than any regiment out there. I mean, of course, during the late Kafir disturbances.

They took a leading part in the Trans-Kei war, which was finished just before I Avent out ; they were then em ployed during the Avhole of the Perie Bush war. After that they were ordered to take part in the expedition against Seccocoeni; and are now doing valuable service against the X

INTRODUCTION.

. Zulus, under the command of Colonel Buller, and attached to General Wood's column. As our regiment was nearly always on the move, often without either baggage or tents, keeping an uninterrupted diary was out of the question. I have, therefore, to trust chiefly to my memory in narrating the diffe rent events that took place. Such being the case, I have avoided mentioning dates as much as possible, fearing that they might be inaccurate. Having now said enough to introduce my little work, I Avill at once commence my story, once more asking my readers to remember that it is no experienced author Avho is addressing them, but only one Avho is de sirous of giving such young fellows who care for soldiering an insight into the kind of life they are likely to meet \vitk out in South Africa. PAGE CONTENTS. PART THE FIRST.

Chapter I

The Voyage out. — Cape Town. — Arrival at East London. — King William's Town.* — Introduction to the General. — Am appointed Sub-Lieutenant to Frontier Light Horse, and ordered to the front -1

Chapter II

Start for head-quarters. — Join my regiment. — A combined attack. — Essence of ginger. — Experiments with a shell, and its results 21

Chapter III

Early march for Bayley's Grave. — Something in the wind. — Attack on the Tabed N'Toda. — Am left in command of my troop. — My first shot. — A warm corner. — A new camp. — A long day's work. — Pleasures of being ' on guard.' — At the Tabed N'Toda again.— Am left in command of a vedette party and forgotten. — A Kafir fowl. — A shopping expedition. — The mealie controversy. — A Kafir chase. — My opinion of loyal Kafirs - Contents. XII PAGE 67 85 107 125

Chapter IV

Oif to Keiskama Hoek. — A hailstorm. — An early patrol and its consequences. — Retire with one man wounded. — Bayley's Grave. — Haine's Mill. — On duty to 'King' and back. — Ordered to Blaine's Farm. — Depot duty. — In command at Kei Eoad. — The Hotel ' Ram Sammee '

Chapter V

Change of head-quarters to Briedbach. A new commanding officer. — A day's leave and a visit to the Police Camp. — My advice to those about to join that force. — Am ordered to the front again. — The advance to the attack. — A warm reception. — My old charger shot. — Narrow escape of my captain. — A sad ride home. — Rejoin the camp. — Waiting for the Kafirs. — Back to Haine's Mill. — Capture of Kafir women

Chapter VI

Sonna to the front ! — Narrow escape of an aged Kafir. — Sandilli's stronghold. — Consequence of educating the 'noble savage.' — The deserted camp. — A rough place. — Our bird flown. — Return to camp --.-..

Chapter VII

A trip to King, and a lonely ride back. — Back to the Quinqua Valley — Death and burial of Sandilli. — Idle days. — A race meeting. — End of Perie bush war. — Orders for Transvaal Contents. XIII PAGE 165 PART THE SECOND.

Chapter I

Preparations for our long march. — The start. — Crossing the Kei River. — A mule takes a 'header.' — One wagon breaks down, and we have to go without blankets. — Ibeka. — The 'double drift' on the Bashee River. — Arrive at Umtate.—' Out of spirits ' ' - - - - 139

Chapter II

A synopsis of our style of marching. — Grass fires. — We catch up the 90th Regiment, and enter Kokstadt together. — We are detained there. — A march past. — Athletic sports. — We resume our march. — Scenery on entering Natal. — On nearing Pietermaritzburg we make ourselves smart. — Are played into the town by the ' Buffs.' — The 'Light Horse' dinner. — Off again. — Ladysmith. — Newcastle. — The Transvaal. — Middleburg. — Lydenburg. — Our march to Burgher's Fort

Chapter III

A patrol, and a lucky escape. — Cattle captured. — Cattle - guard. — Another patrol. — Scarcity of water, and consequent sufferings. — Our camp is attacked at night. — A new camp. — The water supply dries up - - - - - -185 Contents. XIV PAGE

Chapter IV

We start to return.— Have a slight ' argument ' with the enemy. — -We return to help the wagons. Suffering of the escort from want of water. — Burgher's Fort again. — A much-wanted wash. — The horse-sickness commences. — Its fatal effects. Slow times. ■ — Another patrol - - - - 221

Chapter V

Short rations. — Orders to march to the Speckboom river. — Am sent in charge of an escort to a string of wagons to Lydenburg. — Our journey southwards. — My opinion of the Boers. — I send in my resignation, and become once more a civilian. —The end V HOW I VOLUNTEERED FOE THE CAPE.

Chapter I

The Voyage out. — Cape Town. — Arrival at East London. — King William's Town. — Introduction to the General. — Am appointed Sub-Lieutenant to Frontier Light Horse and ordered to the Front. I started from Dartmouth on 22nd February, 1878, on board Donald Currie's good ship Dunrobin Castle — Captain Winchester. For the first few days, as is usual on long voyages, everything was sixes and sevens, and nobody seemed inclined to make acquaintances ; but gradually this coolness Avore off, and in a short time we all became thoroughly friendly. The consequence was that the voyage, Avhich at first promised to be dull and tedious, turned out, as far as I am concerned, the j oiliest trip I ever had in my life. We had it innumerable concerts, etc., of an evening; and during the day, those men who felt athleti cally inclined amused themselves and others by attempting all kinds of feats of strength more or less impossible.

But as we neared the tropics the ardour of the athletes calmed down, and a daily-increasing disposition to lie about the decks and do nothing was visible among the passengers. We arrived at Cape Town on Sunday morning the 17th of March, and not a few of us were sorry that we were so near approaching our journey's end. We received notice that we should have to tranship on board the Melrose by Monday afternoon. We had a lot of luggage to pack, but we all made up our minds to rest on the Sunday and have a very busy time of it on the Monday morning. I had already been in Cape Town some six years ago, when on my way home from Australia, and had then come to the conclusion that it was an intensely wretched place. I find that to be the general opinion of most Englishmen who have visited the town, and it may perhaps be accounted for by the fact HOW I VOLUNTEERED FOR THE CAPE. 3 that it is so un-English.

It is built right under the shadow of the huge Table Moun tain ; the roofs of all the houses are flat ; the streets are for the most part narrow and crooked, and there is nothing that can be 7 O justly called a footpath. In front of one or two shops there may be a few yards of pave ment, and then the foot-passenger is suddenly ' brought up ' by a ' stoup,' which some in habitant has chosen to build right out to the road. The colonial word ' stoup ' means a sort of raised space in front of the entrance, ap proached on either side by steps. As the majority of the inhabitants choose to have stoups in front of their houses, it may be easily imagined that walking in the streets of Cape ToAvn is not all uninterrupted enjoy ment. In fact, if you are obliged to walk, it is as Avell to make up your mind at once to walk in the road and chance being run over by some Malay boy driving a cart.

It ahvays struck me that these boys had got up a sort of sweepstake among themselves, to be taken by the one who ran over the most people during the year. If that was really the case, 1—2 the earnestness they displayed was worthy of a better cause. The place is very full of Dutch, and swarms with all kinds of niggers, Malays, Coolies, and a particular breed of their own called a ' Cape Town boy.' I should be sorry if my description of Cape Town should prejudice my readers against it. All I can say is, that I have noAV j)aid three visits to the place, and still do not like it. True it is that each of my visits have been very short. I have been told by those who have lived there and had an opportunity of becoming intimate Avith the people liA'ing around the toAvn, that they have in time really come to like it.

There are some pretty suburbs outside Cape Town ; the two prettiest, in my opinion, being Rondebosche and Wynberg. It is in these suburbs that the majority of the Englishmen employed during the day in toAvn have their homes. Cape Town can certainly boast of some Avell-kept Botanical Gardens, and a few of us Avho had landed on Sunday Avhen all the shops, etc., were closed, passed the afternoon HOW I A'OLUNTEERED FOR THE CAPE. 5 in roaming about the gardens, enjoying the freshness of the floAvers and examiningthe various tropical plants which Avere so strange to our English eyes. The next morning we were all terribly busy repacking, and afterwards Ave had to go on board the Melrose to select our berths and see our luggage put on board. After the roomy cabins we had been accustomed to on board the Dun-robin Castle Ave all felt strangely cramped in our neAV quarters.

Yet the Mel rose, although very much smaller than the ocean boats, is almost perfect in her accommo dation. She is one of several coasting steamers belonging to Donald Currie that ply betAveen Cape ToAvn and Natal and all the intermediate ports. We started rather late in the afternoon en route for Natal ; I myself being bound for East London. I must say that the Melrose rolled terribly, and some of the ladies began to experience aneAV the miseries of sea-sickness, oAving, I presume, to the change of motion, the movement being so much quicker in the smaller vessel. We arrived at East London about four HOW I VOLUNTEERED FOR THE CAPE. o'clock on Thursday afternoon. I was the only passenger for that port, and sad enough I felt in having to leave those who had not only been my fellow-passengers from England, but had become to me kind friends.

HoAvever, necessitas non luibet leges : the good byes had to be said and the luggage seen to. I had got everything on deck in readiness for disembarking, but Avhat was my dismay when a rickety old tub, called — sar castically I should think — a lifeboat, put alongside, and her captain, amid much expec toration and many oaths, signified his willing ness to take the passenger, and his firm determination to have nothing to do Avith any luggage. Having given utterance to his resolution in terms more forcible than elegant, he subsided, and concentrated the whole of his attention to the quid of tobacco at Avhich he was chewing. I tried persuasion, and then bluster, but all in vain. I then appealed to the captain of the Melrose, but the only consolation that he could give me was that, as he had to go on with the mails, he Avould transfer mv luoro-ao-e on board one of the vessels Avaiting to unload, and that I should get it as soon as the weather ■alloAved the surf-boats to go out.

It Avas poor consolation, but the best that could be got ; so, with a heavy heart, a small Gladstone bag, a bundle of sticks and my sword, I loAvered myself into the lifeboat, amid innumerable kind wishes for my safety and future welfare from my kind friends on board. After a good bump on the ' bar,' which re sulted in all of us getting drenched to the skin, Ave arrived safely alongside the quay. I say safely advisedly, as a more wisafe con trivance than the so-called ' lifeboat ' I never Avish to see. It was afterwards upset on the bar, and the cause of the loss of seven lives. Whilst I was looking about for some one of Avhom I might inquire my way to the best hotel, I tried to analyse my feelings. I felt as lonely as a new boy at a big school, and as thoroughly wretched as — well, as only a man can feel who is wet through, friendless, and, Avorse than all, just arrived in East London.

Curiously enough I wrote home to my people shortly afterwards, and described East London as being very like the Eden ia Charles Dickens's ' Martin Chuzzlewit,' and comparing my own feelings to those of Mark Tapley. Lately, in reading Trollope's ' South Africa,' I found that he gives exactly the same description of East London. The streets of East London are marked out straight and broad enough, and it Avould no doubt be a grand city if it Avere not for the almost total absence of houses. What feAV there are, are mostly miserable shanties. There is certainly not a good house in the Avhole place. Having made my inquiry and been directed to the Marine Hotel as the best, I went there. I suppose it Avas the best for the reason that there Avas no other ; but to an Englishman just arriATed from his native country it looked a pitiful place indeed.

They put me into a dark little box — called by them a bedroom — in the back-yard, to begin with ; but, having made up my mind that my first sleep on shore should be a good one, I rebelled, and refused to accept the box as a legal tender for a bedroom. In fact, I got hold of the landlord and told him that unless he could manage to accommodate me with a proper bedroom, I should go over to the other side of the river — viz., to Panmure. That, if I may be alloAved to use a slang expression, ' fetched him,' and in a short time I Avas in stalled in a bedroom on the first-floor at the back of the house. The room did not boast of a AvindoAV, but the door had panes of glass in the upper panels, and through them I had a fine vieAv of the breakwater and the ever changing ocean. My first night Avas not a happy one.

The room Avas a vast improvement on the rejected box, but the mosquitoes, of Avhich there were swarms, haA'ing found out that I was a ' new chum,' celebrated the event by a grand feast, the piece de resistance being my unlucky carcase. After a restless night, I got up and treated Avhat the mosquitoes had left of me to the luxury of a fresh-Avater bath. By its means I felt much refreshed, and so descended to breakfast. My first inquiry was naturally after my luggage, and I heard, to my chagrin, that the bar was too rough to allow the surf boats putting out. So there Avas nothing for HOW I VOLUNTEERED FOR THE CAPE. it but to Avait in this wretched place until the morroAV, and see if the weather mode rated. I will here explain Avhy my threat to the landlord of going over to the other side of the river ' fetched him.' The Buffalo river reaches the sea at East London ; and on the opposite side to East London, built on much higher ground, is a sort of second edition of that charming town.

This place is called Panmure, and is certainly an improvement on the old town. There is a great feeling of rivalry between the tAvo places ; East London looking on Panmure as a young upstart, and Panmure returning the compliment by designating East London as an old sloAvcoach. Panmure is certainlv the •_> favourite of those employed in either place, for, although a great many have stores and warehouses in East London, they one and all have their private house in Panmure, to Avhich they retire after business hours. The railway to King William's Town has its station on the Panmure side of the river. Having nothing better to do, I determined on paying a visit to the rival place ; so, going down to the breakwater, I followed the bank of the river until I came to the ferry. On my way I noticed large gangs of convicts quarrying stone.

They are sent here in great numbers from King William's Town to work on the breakwater. I was pleased to notice that there were very few Afhite men among them. On the other side of the river I had a steep path to climb, and on reaching the top of the hill found myself in Panmure. I paid a visit to the railway-station, and found it a very creditable edifice for so small a place. There are some very fairly-built houses in the town, but a bare, bleak aspect is imparted to the place, by the almost total absence of trees. I returned to East London in time for lunch, and after having done very fair justice to that meal, I composed myself on a seat in the A*erandah for a smoke. One of the resi dents of the place had lunched at the hotel, and came out on the verandah, also bent on enjoying the soothing weed.

Getting into conversation with him, I learned that there was a detachment of the 2-24th stationed at the fort, and that one of the officers Avas named M . Now, some HOAV I A'OLUNTEERED FOR THE CAPE. years ago, I had been at a private tutor's in Germany with a fellow of that name, and while I was pondering in my mind whether it could possibly be the same man, the identical individual strolled in. A mutual recognition ensued, and we had so much to do in talking OATer old times that several hours slipped aAvay quite quickly. After ex changing invitations to dinner Ave parted, he to the fort, and I to my room to prepare for dinner. At that meal I made the acquaint ance of a young fellow with whom I subse quently became intimate. He, poor fellow, was among those killed at the disaster at Isandula.

He was at the time of his death an officer in the Zulu contingent, but at the time I met him he had just finished his period of service. He had joined as a private one of the volunteer corps raised for the Trans-Kei war. He kindly gave me several hints and wrinkles which afterwards proATed very useful to me. The evening passed ' somehoAV,' and I retired to bed fervently hoping that the fates would be good to me and alloAV me to get my luggage and go on my Avay rejoicing. Saturday morning was lovely, and the sea seemed thoroughly calm, so I descended to breakfast in high spirits. I Avas rather de pressed to hear that the surf-boats Avere not Avorking yet, but became more hopeful Avhen the landlord told me that they would in all probability put out some time during the morning. But vain hopes !

The surf-boatmen were either too drunk or too lazy to work, for, although the sea was perfectly calm, not a single boat put out. I Avaited in hope until it was too late to catch the afternoon train for King, and then gave way to despair. As the trains do not run at all on Sundays, I was safely secured in East London until the Monday, when, come what might, 1 Avas determined to go on my way, and, if necessary, leave my luggage to its fate. ' King ' is a colonial abbreviation of King William's Town, and as I shall in future refer to that place by that name, it will be as Avell if my readers bear the abbreviation in mind. At this point of my narrative a few words about surf-boatmen in general, and East London surf-boatmen in particular, may not be inappropriate. Their antecedents are, I should think, remarkably shady.

They struck me as being the scum of the mercantile navy — men who had either deserted their ships, or been discharged for some miscon duct. They receive capital pay, of which they spend the greater part at the liquor shops. The Marine Hotel was infested with them. Every night, and from early in the evening, nothing was to be heard but volleys of the foulest oaths and drunken songs. This kind of thing lasted until the house closed. Not unfrequently the entertainment Avas varied by a few men turning out to relieve their minds by a free fight. On the Saturday in question the inmates of the hotel were edified by the pleasing spectacle of six drunken men fighting in the small courtyard in front of the hotel. Be sides their fists and boots, they used as offen sive weapons full bottles of beer. These, grasped by the neck by a strong man, were novel weapons, as, on descending on the head of the victim, they not only stunned and cut him severely, but deluged him with beer.