Old and New Paris. Its history, its people, and its places ... With numerous illustrations

Chapter II. The Expansion Of Paris

Lutetia — La Cite — Lutetia taken by Labienus — The Visit of Julian the Apostate — Besieged by the Franks — The Norman Invasion — Gradual Expansion from the lie de la Cite to the Outer Boulevards — M. Thierss Line of Outworks .................. 6

Chapter III. The Left Bank And The Right

Paris and London — The Rive Gauche — The Quartier Latin — The Pantheon — The Luxemburg — The School of Medicine — The School of Fine Arts — The Bohemia of Paris — The Rive Droite — Paris Proper—The " West End" 9

Chapter IV Notre Dame

The Cathedral of Notre Dame, a Temple to Jupiter — Cæsar and Napoleon — Relics in Notre Dame — Its History — Curious Legends — The "New Church" — Remarkable Religious Ceremonies — The Place de Greve — The Days of Sorcery — "Monsieur de Paris" — Dramatic Entertainments — Coronation of Napoleon I 2

Chapter VIII. The Boulevards

(continued) Hotel Carnavalet — Hotel Lamoignon — Place Royale — Boulevard du Temple — The Temple— Louis XVII — The Theatres — Astley's Circus — Attempted Assassination of Louis Philippe — Trial of Fieschi — The Cafe Turc — The Cafes — The Folies Dramatiques — Louis XVI. and the Opera — Murder ol the Duke of Herri . CONTEXTS. IV

Chapter IX. The Boulevards

(continued) PACK The Porte Saint-Martin — Porte Saint-Denis — The Burial Place of the French Kings — Funeral of Louis XV. — Funeral of the Count de Chambord — Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle — Boulevard Poissonniere— Boulevard Montmartre — Frascati .................. 95

Chapter X. Boulevard And Other Cafes

The Cafe Litttraire — Cafe Procope — Cafe Foy — Bohemian Cafes — Cafe Momus — Death of Moliere — New Year's Gifts . . . 107

Chapter XI. The Boulevards

(continued). The Opera Comique of Paris—/ Gelosi— The Don Juan of Moliere— Madame Favart— The Saint-Simonians 115

Chapter XII. The Boulevards

(continued) La Maison Doree— Librairie Nouvelle— Catherine II and the Encyclopædia— The House of Madeleine Guimard 122

CHAPTER XIIL PLACE DE LA CONCORDE

Its History— Louis XV -Fireworks— The Catastrophe in 1770— Place de la Revolution— Louis XVI —The Directory r43

Chapter XXI. The Champ De Mars

ANT) PARIS EXHIBITIONS. Trie Royal Military School of Louis XV. — The National Assembly — The Patriotic Altar — The Festival of the Supreme Being — Other Festivals — Industrial Exhibitions — The Eiffel Tower — The Trocadero . . 229

Chapter XXXVII. The Paris Cook

Brillat Savarin on the Art of Cooking — The Cook and the Roaster — Cooking in the Seventeenth Century- Louis XV. — Mme de Maintenon ,-, levard des Italiens .... Frontispiece Place de la Concorde ...... I The Left Bank of the Seine, from Notre Dame 4 Right Bank of the Seine, from Notre Dame 5 ( m ihe Boulevards — Corner of Place de l'Opera 8 I ran;ais 9 A Street Scene . . . .

II N'ntre Dame ... .12 The Choir Stalls, Notre Dame 13 Rue du Cloitre .... .16 Apsis of Notre Dame. ...... 17 The Leaden Spire, Notre Dame .... 20 ( iargoyles in the Sacristy, Ni are Dame 21 rch of Saint-Germain-l'Auxerrois ... 24 I ij Principal Streets of Paris .... 25 Scene during the Massacre of St. Bartholomew js I h. Pont-Neul and the Louv»e, from the Quai des ; 1 -.tins . . . . . . . 30 Bj the Pont-Neuf 3- Seine Fishers ........ 32 from the Pavilion de Flore . facing a The Pont-Neuf and the Mint ---33 Statue of Henri IV. on the Pont-Neuf Institute ........ 37 The Pont-Neuf from the Island .... 40 View from the Western Point of the lie de la Cite . 41 Place de la Bastille and Column of July ... 45 Junction of Grands Boulevards and Rue and Faubourg Montmartre ..... 48 The Bastille 49 The Conquerors of the Bastille ■ • •• 53 A la Robespierre ....... 56 A Lady of 1793 ........ 56 A Tricoteuse ........ 56 Map showing the Extension of Paris -57 Adrienne Lecouvreur ...... 61 A I Hiel in the Bois de Boulogne .... 64 The Seine from Notre Dame facing O5 Recruits 65 i [1 itel Carnavalet Hotel Lamoignon ....... 69 Statue of Louis XIII in the Place des Vosges . 71 The Place des Vosges, formerly Place Royale . 72 The Arcade in the Place des Vosges. ■ ■ • 73 The Winter Circus in the Boulevard des FiHes de Calvaire ........ 77 Louis Philippe 80 Attempted Assassination of Louis Philippe 81 \ I 'arisian Cafe 84 Place de la Republique 85 Frederic Lemaitre 89 1'AGH Porte Saint-Martin and the Renaissance Theatre . 92 Church of Saint-Mery, Kue Saint-Martin . . 93 Apsis of Church of Saint-Mery, Rue lirisemiche 96 Notre 1 lame facing 97 Entrance to the Faubourg Saint-Denis ... 97 Boulevard and Porte Saint-Denis .... 101 Boulevard Bonne -Nouvelle and the Gymnase Theatre 104 The Boulevard Montmartre ..... 105 Entrance to the Theatre des Variety's, Boulevard Montmartre. ....... 109 Cafes on the Boulevard Montmartre .112 Moliere . . . . . 113 Street Coffee Stall 114 Boulevard des Italiens . . . . . . 11G The 6th of June ; the Last of the Insurrection . .121 Marivaux . . . . . . . . .124 Paris in the Seventeenth Century . . 125 Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin ..... 128 View from the Roof of the Opera House . feeing 1 -'j Mile.

Clairon 129 View from the Balcony of the Opera . .132 Avenue de l'Opera ....... 133 One of the Domes of the Opera House 1 35 Eastern Pavilion, Opera House. .... 13O The Public Foyer, Opera House 137 Western Pavilion, Opera House .... 140 The Staircase of the Opera House 141 The Madeleine . . . M4 Interior of the Madeleine ...... 145 Place de la Concorde 149 Place de la Concorde, from the Terrace of the Tuileries ........ 152 Trial of Louis XVI 153 Top of the Vendome Column 155 The Place Vendume . 157 Rue Ca.stiglione . ....... 160 A First Night at the Comedie Francaise — The Foyer ....... facing 161 Mirabeau ......... 1G1 Robespierre . . . . . . . 1G4 The Palais Royal 165 Gardens of the Palais Royal 168 The Palais Royal after the Siege . .169 The Montpensier Gallery, Palais Royal . 170 Entrance to the Comedie Francaise . . . -172 The Public Foyer, Comedie Francaise . . . 173 The Green Room, Comedie Francaise . .176 Moliere ......... 177 Corneille . . .... 180 Voltaire 1*AGE The Committee of the Comedie Francaise : Alexandre Dumas (the younger) Reading a Play . 185 Behind the Scenes, Comedie Francaise Entrance to the National Library in the Rue des Petits Champs The Bourse ......

The Apollo Gallery — The Louvre facing 193 The Louvre, from the Place du Carrousel 193 The Old Louvre (Pierre Lescot's Facade) 195 The Colonnade of the Louvre . . 196 Portion of the Facade of Henri IV. s Galler\ , Louvre ....... 197 Top of the Marsan Pavilion, Louvre . 200 The Marsan and Flora Pavilions, Louvre, from the Pont-Royal 201 The Richelieu Pavilion 205 The Tuileries in the Eighteenth Centurv 208 The Terrace, Tuileries Gardens .... 209 The Tuileries Gardens 209 Lion in the Tuileries Gardens . 211 The Chestnuts oi the Tuileries ..... 212 Louis XVI Stopped at Varennes by Drouet 213 The Royal Family at Varennes. .... 216 Monument to Gambetta, 1 'lace du Carrousel . 217 The Horses of Marly, Champs 1.1 \ sees . 220 The Elysee ...... 221 Saint-Philippe du Roule ... .2 The I , Bois de Boulogne Avenue du ne 224 mphe .... facing Aver le des Elysees 225 le Marigny, Champs I ' 227 Fountain in the Chan ... 228 hamp de Mars, 1889 229 Hlitary School, Champ de Mars 232 il La La\ ette ... 233 The Palais de 1 Industrie, Champs Llysces View Showing Exhibition of 18S9 ...

View from the First Platform of the Eiffel Tower . 240 The Trocadero . . . . . 241 de Ville in the Fifteenth Century . . -244 Attack on the Hotel de Ville, 1S30 . .2 Statue of Ltienne Marcel on the Quai Hotel de Ville 246 Municipal Council Chamber, Hotel de Ville 248 lie St. Louis ........ 24') The Quai de l'Horloge ...... 252 Pont au Change and Palais de Justice . . . 253 The Clock of the Palais de Justice .... 255 Entrance to the Court of Assize . .2 The Palais de Justice .... facing 257 The Palais de Justice and Sainte-Chapelle . . 257 The Facade of the Old Palais de Justice . 2G0 The Saile des Pas Perdus 261 Police Carriages 263 The Conciergerie, Palais de Justice .... 264 The Sainte-Chapelle . . .21 The Lower Chapel of the Sainte-Chapelle . . 267 The Upper Chapel of the Sainte-Chapelle 268 The Tribunal of Commerce ..... 269 A Pompier . . . . . -272 A ( ,uardian of the Peace 273 An Orderly of the Garde de Paris .... 274 A Gendarme 277 I \CE Principal Court of the H6tel-Dieu Rue de Rivoli ... . 281 Facade of the Church of St. Gervais and St Protais . and the Apsis, from the Rue des Barres Tower of Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie Hotel de Beauvais ...

Church of St. Louis and St. Paul Rue de Rivoli and Hotel de Ville facing 289 Rue Grenier-sur-1'eau 289 The Pont-Marie Rue Saint Louis-en-1'Ile ...... 293 Pont au Change, Place du Chatelet, and Boulevard de Sebastopol 29O The Palmier Fountain, Place du Chatelet Rue de Venise ....... St Nicholas-in-the-Fields . 300 The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers 301 The Vertbois Tower and Fountain 303 The Gaiete Theatre ... 304 In the Temple Market 305 The Temple Market ...... 305 Sixteenth Century Cloisters, Rue des Billettes 307 Palace of the National Archives ... 308 Hotel de Hollande ....... 309 Turret at Corner of Rues Vieille du Temple and Francs ] tourgeois ..... Rue de Birague, leading to the Place des Vosges 311 Fountain ni the Innocents 312 Saint-Eustache ... 313 A Market Scene . 315 An Auction Sale of Poultry in the Central Market 316 Rne Rambuteau in the Parly Morning . 317 On the Way to the Central Marl . . . 319 The 1 ish Market ....... 320 Interior of the Mont de Piete, Rue Capron . facing 321 The General Post Office ...... 321 The Poste Restante . .

The Public Hall, General Post Office 323 The Telephone Room at the General Post Office ;_ | Place des Victoires . 325 Rue de la Vrilliere . . 328 In Pcre-Lachaise . ji:i Pare des Buttes Chaumont 331, Montmartre ........ 340 The Synagogue in the Rue de la Victoin . 341 St. Peter's Church Montmartre .... 343 The Bells of St. Peter's 343 The New Municipal Reservoir and the Church of the Sacred Heart, Montmartre . 344 The Caulaincourt Bridge, Montmartre 344 In the Pare Monceau 345 Diana of Poitiers . 3 .« Marshal Ney ..... 352 The Race-course, Longchamps . . facing 353 Camille Desmoulins .... 35O The Polytechnic School ..... 337 Notre Dame from the Pont Saint-Louis . 360 A Rag-picker . 36! A Rag-picker . 3&( The 1 loulevard Poissoniere 368 Selling Goats . 3g„ The Bird Market 373 Madame de Maintenon ,_- 3/3 PLACE DK LA CV..- PARIS. OLD AND NEW.

Chapter I

, PARIS : A GENERAL GLANCE PARIS," said Heinrich Heine, "is not simply the capital of France, but of the whole civilised worl 1, and the rendezvous of its most brilliant intellects." The art and literature of Europe were at that time represented in Paris by such men as Ary Scheffer, the Dutch painter, ni, the Italian composer, the cosmopolitan i beer, and Heine himself. Towards the of the eighteenth century most of the European Courts, with those of Catherine II. and Frederick the Great prominent among them, were regularly supplied with letters on Parisian bv Grimm, Diderot, and other writers ol the first distinction, who, in their moments, contributed articles to the Ency- \t a much remoter period Paris was already one of the most famous literary capitals of Europe ; nor was it renowned for its literature Its art, pictorial anil sculptural, was also celebrated, and still more so its art m.:: while of recent years the country of nod, of Bizet, Massi m I and Saintleading part in the world of music.

Paris, too, has from the earliest times been a centre of science and philosophy. Here 1 Abelard lectured, and here the first hospitals were established. Then, again, Paris has ;: military history of singular interest and variety. It has been oftener turn within its walls by civic conflicts, and attacked hum without by the invader, than any other European city; while none has undergone so many regular sieg the capital of the country us which Frederick the (jreat used to say that, if he ruled it, nut a shut should be fired in Europe without his permission. Paris is at once the most ancient and tlie most modern capital in Europe. Great are the changes it has undergone since it first took form, eighteen centuries ago, as a fortress or walled town on an island in the middle ot the Seine; and at every period of its history we find some chronicler dwelling on the disappearance of ancient landmarks.

Whole quarters are known to have been pulled down and rebuilt under cond Empire. But ever since the Revo lution of 1789, under each successive form of uncut and in almost every district, strag gling lanes have been giving way gradually to wide streets ami stately boulevards, and suburb uburb has been merged into the great city. ; General Gl.ince., The Chaussee d'Antin was at the end of the last century a chaussee in fact as well as in name: a mere high-road, that is to say; and there were people living under the government of Louis-Philippe who claimed to have shot rabbits on the now densely populated Boulevard .Montmartre. The greatest changes, however, in the general physiognomy of Paris date from the Revolution, when, in the first place, as if by way of symbol, the hated fortress was demolished in which so many victims of despotism had languished.

"Athens," savs Victor Hugo, "built the Parthe non, but Paris destroyed the Bastille." In the days when the great State prison was still stand ing, the broad, well-built Rue Saint-Antoine, in its immediate neighbourhood, used to be pi linted t< i bv antiquarians as covering the gn mnd where King Henry II. was mortally wounded m a tournament by Montgomery, an officer in the Scottish Guard. It was there, to,,, that, after the death of their protector, the "minions" ol Henry II. slaughtered one another. 'she now thickly inhabited Place des Victoires, where stands the statue ot Louis XIV., lasting monument of kingly pride and popular adulation, was at one time the most dangerous part of the capital. In the open space now enclosed by lordly mansions and commodious warehou thieves and murderers held their nightly as semblies, or even in th" face of day committed depredations on the p* '■''.

"Could abetter site have been chosen historian of the last century, "for the c^'gv of that royal robber, born for the ruin of his subjects and the dis turbance of Europe: who aimed at universal monarchy and sacrificed the wealth and happiness of a whole kingdom Lo pursue an empty shadow ; who lived a tyrant and died an idiot ? " Not far distant, the Halles, or general markets, stand on the spot where Charles V. made a famous speech against Charles, surnamed the Mischievous, King of Navarre; when the former was hissed and hooted by the mob because he had neither the good looks, the eloquence, nor the reasoning power of his antagonist. It was here, too, that the first dramas were acted in France ; and here, significantly enough, that .Moliere was born. At the Butte Saint-Roch, now remembered chiefly by the church of the same name, the Maid of Orleans was wounded during the siege of Paris, then in the hands of the English.

Joan of Arc w.tnot at this time — not, at least, with the Parisians — the popular heroine she has since become. Detesting Charles VII. and all his supporters, they could not love the inspired girl whose example bad re-tore, 1 the courage of the king's troops. A Parisian of that day, who had witnessed tlie siege, describes her as a " fiend in woman's guise." The bell may still be heard of Saint-Gcrmain l'Auxerrois ; the very bell, it is asserted, that called tlie faithful to the massacre of St. Bartholomew. Near the church from which the tragic signal rang forth stands the palace from whose windows Charles IX. fired upon the unhappy Huguenots as they sought safety by swimming across the Seine ; and close at hand used to be pointed out another window from which money was thrown to an agitated crowd in order to keep it from attending Moliere's funeral, at which the mob proposed, not to honour the remains of the illustrious dramatist, but to insult them.

It was in the old Rue du Temple that the Duke of Burgundy fell by the hand of his assassin, the Duke of Orleans, only brother of Charles VI., who, though a madman and an idiot, was suffered to remain on the throne ; ami it was in this same Rue du Temple that Louis XVI. and Marie-Antoinette were confined before being taken to the guillotine. What scenes has not the Place de Greve witnessed! from the burning of witches to the torture of Damiens, and from the atrocious cruelties inflicted upon this would-be regicide to the first executions under the Revolution, when the cry of "A la lanteme!" ( to the lamp-post, that is to say, of the Place de Greve) was so frequently heard. But the most revolutionary spot in this, the most revolutionary capital in the world, is to be found in the gardens of the Palais Royal ; those' gardens from whose trees Camille Des moulins plucked the leaves wiiich the besiegers of the Bastille were to have worn in their hats as rallying signals.

Here, too, assembled the journeymen printers, who, their newspapers having been suppressed by Charles X., determined, under tlie guidance of the journalists — their natural leaders on such an occasion — to reply by force to the armed censorship of the Government. Again, in [848, the Palais Royal Gardens witnessed the first manifestations ot discontent, though it was a pistol-shot fired on a fashionable part of the boulevard that precipitated the collision between the insurgents and the troops. The next morning, at breakfast, Louis-Philippe was told that he had better abdicate ; and an hour afterwards an old gentle- General Glance.] THK PARIS OF THE ROMANS. 3 man. with a portfolio under his arm, was seen to take a cab on the Place de la G mci irde, and drive off in the direction of Saint-Cloud, whence he reached the coast of Normandy, and in due time the -hor. s of England. punished much on the principle laid down in the inscription of the sixth century which adorned one of the walls of Lutetia, the Paris of the Romans : " If a thief is caught in the act he must, in the case of a noble, be brought to trial ; in the case of a peasant, be hanged on the spot."

The capitular of Charlemagne forbade ecclesiastics to take human life : which did not prevent the abbes of different monasteries from besieging one another or crossing swords when, with their followers, they chanced to meet outside the fortified monasterial walls, whether in the plain or in the public street. The right of private warfare existed in France until 1235. Paris possesses one of the most ancient and one of the most characteristicallv modern churches in Europe — the venerable Notre-Dame, and in. contrast, the fashionable Madeleine, celebrated tor the splendour of its essentially mundane architecture, the luxurious attire of its female frequenters, the beauty of its music, and the eloquence of its preachers. The first stone of Notre-Dame was laid, as Victor Hugo puts it, by Tiberius, who, recognising the site ofthe future cathedral as well-fitted for a temple, began by erecting an altar "to the god Cerennos and to tinbull Esus."

In like manner, on the hill of Sainte-Genevieve, where now stands the edifice known as the Pantheon, Mercury was at one timeworshipped. Paris has undergone atrocious sufferings through war, famine, pestilence, and calamities of all kinds. The Normans, titter burning one half of Paris, allowed the remainder to be ran somed with an enormous sum of money. In one of the famines bv which Paris in its early davs wasso often visited, people cast lots as to which should be eaten. The taxes were so excessive that many pretended to be lepers, in order to profit bv the exemption accorded in such cases. But it was sometimes not well to be a leper, real or pretended ; for it was proclaimed one dav to the sound of horn and trumpet that lepers throughout the kingdom should be ex terminated : " in consequence of a mixture oi herbs and human blood, with which, rolling it up in a linen cloth and tying it to a stone, they poison the wells and rivers."

So rich is Paris in historical associations that often the same street, the same spot, recalls two widely different events. Thus the statue of 11. mi [V. on the Pont-Neuf commemorates the glory of the best and greatest of the French king-, an 1 at the same time marks the very ground where, in the fourteenth century, Jacques de- Molav, the Templar, was infamously burned. At No. 14 in the Rue de Bethisy Admiral Coligny died and Sophie Arnotild was born. At a house in the Rue des Marais Racine wrote " Baj izet " and " Britannicus " in the room where, fifty years later, the Duchess de Bouillon is said to have poisoned Adrienne Lecouvreur. There was a time when, at the corner ofthe Rue du Marche des Innocents, a marble slab, inscribed with letters of gold, associated the important year of [685 with three notable events : the arrival of tin embassy from Siam, a visit from the Doge of 1. and the revocation of the Kdict of Nantes.

This strange record has disappeared, her with many other interesting memorials of various shapes and kinds: such, for example, ,1- th. iron cauldron in the Cour des Miracles, where, in the name of a whole series of kings who had played tricks with the national currency, and more than once produced national bank ruptcy, coiners used to be boiled alive. How terrible, and often how ridiculous, were the proclamations issued in those days ! In front of the Grand-Chatelet six heralds of France, clothed in white velvet, and rod in hand, were wont to announce after a plague, a war, or a famine that there was nothing more to be feared, and that the king would be graciously pleased to receive taxes as before. In the centre of the so-called "town" — Paris in general, that is to say, as distinct from the city — was "la Maubuee " (derived, according to Victor Hugo, from rttauvaise tuincc), where Jews innumerable were roasted over fires of pitch and green wood to punish what a chronicler of the time terms their " anthropomancy " ; and what the Counsellor de l'Ancre further describes as "the marvellous cruelty they have always shown towards Chris tians, their mode of life, their synagogue, so displeasing to God, their uncleanliness, and their stench."

The unhappy Jew-, however, were not the only victims. Close bv, at the corner of tin- Rue du Gros-Chenet, was the place where sorcerers As we go further back in the history of Paris, lawlessness on the part of the inhabitants, am! cruelty "it that of the rulers, seem constantly to increase. Until the reign of Louis XL, Paris was without police, though laws were nominally in force, especially against stealing. Theft was [General Gl.ince. 4 variety of Paris, it should be seen from the towers of Notre-Dame, the Pantheon, the July Column of the Place de la Bastille, the tower of Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie, the Vendome Column, the Triumphal Arch, and, finally, the Eiffel Tower. From these different points panoramic views may be obtained which together would form a complete picture of Paris. to be burned.

Torture, moreover, in its most hideous forms was practised upon criminals even until the time of the Revolution ; which, while introducing the guillotine, abolished, in addition to a variety of other torments, breaking on the wheel, and the beating of criminals to death with the iron bar. Mainof the names, still extant, of the old THE LEFT HANK OF THE SEINE FROM NOTRE-DAME. The shape of Paris is oval. The longest diameter — east to west — would be drawn from Paristreets the Gate of Vincennes to the Gate ot Auteuil ; recall the and the shorter — north to south — from the ferocity and Gate of Clignancourt to the (late of Italy. the superstition of past times. The Rue de l'Arbre Sec was the Street ofthe Gibbet, with " Dry Tree " as its familiar name. The Rue d'Enfer, or Hell Street, was -,, called from a belief that this thoroughfare on the outskirts of Pan-. just beyond the Luxemburg Gardens, was haunted by the fiend.

In order to put an end to the scan. lai by which the whole neigh bourhood was alarmed, it occurred to the au thorities to make over the street to the Order of Capuchins who, they thought, would know how- I '.u is is divided longitudinally by the cour-. oi the Seine, whose windings are scarcely noticed by the observer taking a bird's-eye view. The river looks like a silver thread between two bordels of green. These tire the plantations of the quays, whose trees, during the last five and-twenty years, have become as remarkable for their luxuriant growth as tor their beauty ot form. From the height of our observatory we see the Island of the City, looking like a ship at anchor, with its prow towards the west. al with their inveterate enemy. The Capuchins accepted, with gratitude, the valuable trust ; and thenceforth, whether as the result of On all sides the summits of religious edifices •present themselves : the towers of Notre-Dame, the dome of the Pantheon, the turrets of Saintsome exorcising process or because public con fidence had been restored, no more waheard ed the visitor from below.

Sulpice, the steeple of Saint-( rcrmain-dcs-Prcs, the gilded cupola of the Invalides, and the loft) isolated belfry of Saint- Jacques-de-la-Bouchi i ii 'I'., get a complete idea of the and Following the course of the Seine with careful DEMOLITION OF AN ARCHITECT. General GlalK ? eye, one may see its twenty-one "ports" — eleven on the right bank, and ten on the left — from Bercy to the Tuileries ; also, like slender bars thrown across the river, the twenty-seven bridges connecting the two banks, from the Pont- National to the viaduct of the Point du Jour. Idle double line of quays — quadruple, where tbe islands of St. Louis and of the City divide the river in two— presents an incomparable series model adopted in the early part of the sixteenth century by all French architects who had studied in Italy, or Italian architects who had settled in France ; and the masterpiece of Michael Angelo at Rome was not yet finished when the first stone of the impressive and picturesque Church of Saint-Eustace was laid in 1532 at Paris.

Only a few years afterwards the French architect. Philibert de l'Orme, attached to the service of RIGHT BANK OF THE SEINE FROM NOTRE-DAME. of stately structures; such as the Hotel de Ville, the Palais de Justice, the Louvre, the Mint, the Institute, the Palais Bourbon, and a number of magnificent private mansions. From the Gothic steeple of the Sainte Chapelle the eye wanders to innumerable domes, built under the influence of the Renaissance ; for while the domes have endured, the steeples, so numerous in ancient Paris, have, for the most part, succumbed either to fire or to the vandalism of the renovating architect. It must be remembered, too, that under the reign of Louis XIV. Gothic architecture was proscribed, as recalling " the age of barbarism." Every new edifice was constructed in the Italian or Italo-Byzantine style.

The finest, if not the most ancient, dome that Paris could ever boast was the one which crowned the central pavilion of the Tuileries Palace. The cupola of St. Peter's was the Pope Paul III., returned to Paris, and, beneath the delighted eyes of Queen Catherine lie Medicis, worked out the designs which he had formed under the inspiration of Michael Angelo and of Bramante. The dome, however, of Philibert de l'Orme was destined to lose its beauty through the additions made to it by other architects. Of late years it has been the rule in Paris not to destroy but to preserye the ancient architecture of the city. " Demolish the tower of Saint- Jacques-de-la-Boucherie ? " asked Victor Hugo, when, during the reconstruction and prolongation ot the Rue Rivoli, the question of keeping it standing or pulling it down was under general discussion: "Demolish the tower of Saint- Jacques-de-la-Boucherie ? No! Demolish the architect who suggests such a thing ? Ye | I lie I Paiis. 6

Chapter II. The Expansion Of Paris

Lutetia— La CM— Lutetia tjken by Labienus— The Visit of Julian the Apostate— Itesieged by the Franks— The Norman Invasion— Gradual L.\p:in-ion from the tie de la Cite to the Outer Buulevards - M, ihiers's Line of Outworks. LUTETIA, the ancient Paris, or Lutetia Parisio- __j rum, as it was called by the Romans, stood in the midst of marshes. she name, derived, -lively enough, from liituin, the Latin for mud, has been invested with a peculiar signifi cance by those stern moralists who see in Paris nothing but a sink of iniquity. Balzac called it a " wen " ; and Blucher, when some ferocious member of his staff suggested the destruction of Paris, exclaimed : " Leave it alone ; Paris will destroy all France!" By a critic of less severe temperament Paris has been contemptuously described as " the tavern of Europe " — lc cabaret dc V Europe.