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Rhoesia past and present ... With sixteen illustrations, etc

Stephanus Jacobus Du Toit · 1897 · Scanned text

57,807 words · about 4 h 3 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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Licence: PDM · British Library Digitised Books dataset db14 (doi 10.21250/db14) marks the OCR texts CC Public Domain Mark 1.0 (c. 1510-c. 1900 publications); text+metadata JSONL release doi 10.23636/r7w6-zy15 is CC0 1.0. Public Domain Mark is a status label, not a new copyright licence. · Digitised by the British Library (with Microsoft). Text: British Library Digitised Books, CC Public Domain Mark 1.0.

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About this book

Author
Stephanus Jacobus Du Toit
Language
English
Published
1897
Length
57,807 words · about 4 h 3 min
Sections
36 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public Domain Mark 1.0

 

Contents (36)
  1. Preface about 1 min
  2. Letter I Bullock-waggon Versus Railway under 1 min
  3. Letter II From Vryburg To Mafeking under 1 min
  4. Letter III From Mafeking To Palla Page under 1 min
  5. Letter IV From Palla To Palapye under 1 min
  6. Letter VIII Salkats, The Founder Of The Matabele Empire under 1 min
  7. Letter IX Lobengula, The Destroyer Of The Matabele Empire about 1 min
  8. Letter X From Bulawayo To The Queen's Reef under 1 min
  9. Letter XI From The Queen's Reef To Shangani under 1 min
  10. Letter XII From Shangani To Gwelo under 1 min
  11. Letter XIII Another about 1 min
  12. Letter XIV How Wilson And His Men Perished about 2 min
  13. Letter XV From Bulawayo To Salisbury under 1 min
  14. Letter XVI Salisbury Versus Bulawayo under 1 min
  15. Letter XVII From Salisbury To Umtali Page under 1 min
  16. Letter XVIII From Umtali To Beira about 1 min
  17. Letter XIX The Competing Seaports about 1 min
  18. Letter I Bullock-waggon Versus Railway about 13 min
  19. Letter II From Vryburg To Mafeking about 8 min
  20. Letter III From Mafeking To Palla about 7 min
  21. Letter IV From Palla To Palapye about 10 min
  22. Letter V From Palapye To Tati about 9 min
  23. Letter VI The Tati Gold-fields Of The Past about 8 min
  24. Letter VII The Tati Gold-fields Of The Present about 9 min
  25. Letter VIII Salkats, The Founder Of The Matabele Empire about 15 min
  26. Letter IX Lobengula, The Destroyer Of The Matabele Empire about 17 min
  27. Letter X From Bulawayo To The Queen's Reef about 7 min
  28. Letter XI From The Queen's Reef To Shangani about 11 min
  29. Letter XII From Shangani To Gwelo about 13 min
  30. Letter XIII Another about 13 min
  31. Letter XIV How Wilson And His Men Perished about 19 min
  32. Letter XV From Bulawayo To Salisbury about 12 min
  33. Letter XVI Salisbury Versus Bulawayo about 11 min
  34. Letter XVII From Salisbury To Umtali about 12 min
  35. Letter XVIII From Umtali To Beira about 17 min
  36. Letter XIX The Competing Seaports about 23 min

Continue:

Preface

The reader has probably seldom met with more heterogeneous elements in one single book. Some portions were written in our waggon, some under a tree, on a stone, near an ant-heap, on the brink of a river, on board ship, on the beach, in an old mine, amidst ancient ruins ; seldom with the pen, mostly with pencil ; sometimes by the glare of a fire, sometimes by the feeble glimmer of a candle in a lantern, mostly with the inconvenience of a traveller in a new country, often in a hurry to avail ourselves of the scanty chances of postal out-stations; mere fleeting impressions, incoherent but fresh, in the shape of letters to friends. On the contrary, other parts were written in my study, in the midst of a library of books on the North, dealing with the old diggings and ruins, and give a resume of much reading and reflection, coupled with my own investigations and experience.

Well then, we give it, and let the reader take it for what it is worth. We always trouble ourselves only about what we write, never about what we have

PREFACE.

VI written. That is for the reader to judge. What is written, is written. One remark only need be added. When we started for the North, the secretary of the Chartered Company kindly supplied us with letters of introduction to all officials of the Company in Mashonaland and Matabe leland. Not a single one of these letters did we use. We brought them all back. Purposely we avoided coming into contact with the Company's officials as far as possible ; we wanted to see with our own eyes ; to judge impartially and unprejudiced. Whatever deficiencies this book, consequently, may have, of which we are fully conscious, it is written according to our own disinterested observation and honest conviction. S. J. DU TOIT. Paarl, September 7, 1S95. AGE CONTENTS

Letter I Bullock-waggon Versus Railway

How the Dutch Pioneer opened the Country with his Ox waggon — The English following with Telegraph and Railway — Praises of the "slow but sure" Ox and Ox waggon — Still indispensable — Difference between former and present Pioneers — Ox-waggon preceding Railway — Rhodes the present Pioneer — Africa the Land of the Future — Why so long unknown — High and healthy — No Waterways, awaiting the Railway — From Cape to Cairo — Two Signboards — Co-operation of English and Dutch I

Letter II From Vryburg To Mafeking

Bechuanaland' s Population increasing — The Trade Route — Transvaal exclusive Policy — Means of Transport from Vryburg to Salisbury — "He is only a Kaffir" — Trans vaal Incredulity — Montsioa — The Friend of Trees — Mafeking, the trim Border Town — The Railway just crossing the Border of Civilisation — The increasing Stream of Malopo CONTENTS VIII

Letter III From Mafeking To Palla Page

Three hundred miles per Ox-waggon — With the 'Bus to Bulawayo — Bush Country — Game and Birds — Guinea fowl Hunting by Night — Pleasures and Sorrows of Hunters — What are these Trees for? — A Railway through the Bush Country — Fire continually Burning — A Fruitful and Habitable Country — Translation of Kaffir Names 21

Letter IV From Palla To Palapye

Another 105 miles through Bush country — "Every one goes to Bulawayo " — Through a " Thirst Land " — The upper end of the Kalahari — Water and " Veldt" — Chris tianity and Civilisation amongst the Kaffirs — Kaffirs as Labourers— A Hint for our Labour Commission 28

Letter VIII Salkats, The Founder Of The Matabele Empire

The Boundaries of Matabeleland — The Descent of Salkats — Salkats and Chaka — Salkats and the Boers— Salkats and the Mashonas, Makalakas, and Baroets — His Death and Successor— The Poor Matabeles — Their Miserable State and Humiliation .... 63

Letter IX Lobengula, The Destroyer Of The Matabele Empire

Contrast between Salkats and Lobengula — The Weak nesses of Lobengula — Lobengula the Victim of English Policy — Downing Street does what Pretoria refused to do — Not the Boer, but the Englishman acquires the North ■ — First by Diplomacy, then by Gold Concessions, finally with the Maxim — The Grobler Murder — " Bobejaun" sent to the White Queen — England's Suzerainty acknowledged — "Protection," which in Five Years' time annihi lated tlie Empire — His Birthright sold for a Pottage of CONTENTS X 1AGE Lentils, or Lobengula's Concession Policy— Concession first towards North-east, then South-west — More and larger Concessions— The Chartered Company with Rights on One-eleventh of Africa, or One Million square Miles — Had Rhodes the Right to make War?— The War com menced — Had it been against Salkats.' — Assegai or Rifle — The Entrance Gates not Guarded — What happened at Manqwe — The Shangani Battle — Two clever Scouts — Wilson idolised, Forbes censured — The Bembezi Battle — Night and Dawn in Matabeleland 76

Letter X From Bulawayo To The Queen's Reef

Further Travelling Plan — The old City of Murder — The Imbezi Military Kraal — Lobengula's Picked Regiment — Interview with a few of these Warriors — Urns asi Matiho — Severe Morality of the Kaffirs — Its Weakening by Civilisation — Old Mining Works — The Ancients were good Prospectors — Their lead is now being followed — The Queen's Reef — In the Paarl Camp . . . .92

Letter XI From The Queen's Reef To Shangani

Burning of the " Veldt," and Prospector's Tracks through Matabeleland — With Donkeys and in Grass Huts — The Trader follows the Gold-seeker — Prices in Matabeleland — Bees' heads in Sugar — In a forsaken Orchard — Tlie Subjection of the Matabele — Missions without Success — Lions — On the Road by which Lobengula fled — Thirteen days without Whites — Eight without seeing Kaffirs — What we saw and found along the Shangani — Books and Papers thrown away — Fishing amongst Crocodiles — Back from the wrong Road ....... CONTENTS XI PAGE

Letter XII From Shangani To Gwelo

Stuck in the Forest — Open Roads with eight Tracks ! — Baobab and Mahogany Trees — Post Pole along the Road — One Matabele with eight Wives — How the Ancients crushed the Quartz — Many thousands of Labourers- Nightly Visitors — A Sunday Dinner — A Wild Boar — A cheeky Matabele Petty Chief — A Prospector's Camp destroyed by a Dynamite Explosion — Important Informa tion — Gwelo and its Prospects — The Surroundings of Gwelo 109

Letter XIII Another

350 MILES PER OX-WAGGON Retrospect — Thirteen hundred Miles per Ox-waggon — Back by Three Roads — Why we chose the Beira Route — The Selukwe Gold-fields — The Paarl also here well repre sented — Beautiful Scenery — Forests of wild Loquats — New Roads in a new Land — The Victoria District suitable for Agriculture and Cattle farming — Testimonies of Farmers from the Colony, Free State, the Transvaal, and Natal — Fort Victoria — The Country surrounding Zimbabwe — At the Grave of Wilson and his brave Com pany — " Morgenster," the first Mission Station of the Dutch Reform Church in Rhodesia — Mashona Towns on Granite Koppies — How the Mashonas cultivate their lands — Back to Bulawayo CONTENTS XII PAGE

Letter XIV How Wilson And His Men Perished

A Tragical Episode in the Matabele War First and last Fights at the Shangani — Two renowned American Scouts and their Wonderful Deeds of Recon noitring — Meeting and Interview with Burnham — Chief Adventures of the Expedition which pursued Lobengula — Burnham' s Account of that memorable Night and Morning — Close on Lobengula's Heels — " No European shall cross the Shangani" — Reconnoitring with Wilson and twelve men across the Shangani — Through thousands of Kaffirs in the Night — The whole Matabele Nation and Army with Lobengula — Almost surrounded by Kaffirs — Three Men sent to ask Forbes to cross at once with the whole Force, in order to attack Lobengula at Daybreak — Seeking in the Night for three men who had strayed amongst the Kaffirs — Following tracks on a dark and rainy Night — All out in the Night as Spies — The Kaffir impis, being misled, march past to Forbes — Waiting for Forbes — Burrows arrives with Twenty Men, without a Maxim — Hopeless Condition — Consultation : "How best to Die " — Wilson's Tactics, a Bold Move — Directly on the King and his Chief Indunas — The Waggons empty — Attacked and almost surrounded by Kaffirs — Shoot straight and waste no Ammunition — Good Shooting in Danger — Behind a great Ant-heap — Retreating with closed up Ranks — Where does Forbes Tarry? — Burnham, Ingram, and Gooding break through dense masses of Kaffirs towards Forbes — Mislead the Kaffirs by Detours — A Race for Life — The last they heard of Wilson — Swimming the River with tired Horses — Through the midst of the Enemy to the Laager — Dis satisfied with Forbes's behaviour — Why Raaff took the CONTENTS XIII PAGE 151 Command — What the Kaffirs relate — Wilson's heroic Death— A Magician who could not be killed — A Death song in the midst of Death — Did they Shoot themselves ? — The Representation by Forbes and Ids Distortion of Facts — Burnham well Rewarded ; an energetic Inhabitant of the Country . . . . . . . . .133

Letter XV From Bulawayo To Salisbury

How you obtain Travelling Tickets at Bulawayo — Leav ing Thirty Hours behind Time — Passing a Night on the Omnibus between the Baggage—The Twin-Commando Road — How the two Columns formed Laagers — African ders as Post Contractors — Discomforts on the Journey

Letter XVI Salisbury Versus Bulawayo

Self-conceit of the Johannesburgers — What a Digger's Paper dares to say — Full Hotels and Crammed 'Buses — The Contractor gives us his own Seat — Already Fifty prosperous Farmers in the District — Amongst them Men from the Paarl, now our Fellow-Travellers — Build ing, Building, and no " To Lets "—A Town Hall costing £40,000 — Danger and Loss for Church and Nation ality — -Journalism in Zambesia — The Twin City — Salisbury and Bulawayo— Two Dogs for one Bone- According to which Standard to Judge — A big T and a big Pear ......... CONTENTS XIV

Letter XVII From Salisbury To Umtali Page

/// through Fatigue — A good way through a beautiful Country — A recently laid-out Farm in a New Country — " Here I could live" — Laurencedale — Umtali in a beautiful Valley — Where the Roads divide — A new Highland — Old Viaducts discovered — Were these the Grain Fields of the Ancients? — Are these their Catacombs ?— An interesting Conversation in the evening, during which the Fatigue of the Journey is forgotten .... 173

Letter XVIII From Umtali To Beira

The Descent from Umtali to the Sea coast — The Height of Salisbury, Umtali, Chimoio and Fontesvilla — Distances and Time per Ox-waggon — Railway and River-boat — The Omnibus with Oxen wins — We descend the Moun tains — Tropical Vegetation — How far is this Country habitable ? — Resembles Lower Egypt — Africa built in Terraces — Hence no Navigable Rivers, but healthy High lands — To be opened by Railways — Open Land for super fluous Population of Europe — Railway Terminus not Bulawayo, but Cairo — Midnight at Chimoio — £1 for every Five Miles per Ox-waggon — This is due to the Tsetse Fly — Down the Mountains by Rail — Beautiful Tree growth — Stately Palm Trees — Game on the Flats — What the Game teaches us — The White Rhinoceros not yet extirpated — Protection necessary — List of Game — Fontesvilla a Village on Poles, sometimes a small Venetia — Two Days without Food on the Pungwe — Subsisting on Pisangs (Bananas) — Adventures — Railway versus River-boat T84 CONTENTS XV PAGE 199

Letter XIX The Competing Seaports

Beira and Delagoa the best natural Ports of South Africa — Contrast with Durban and East London — The calum niated Portuguese Government defended — Advantages of the two Portuguese Havens — Beira as Town, Trading Place, and Haven — Sofala, Solomon's Port — German Steam Navigation on the East Coast — Delagoa — False Reports — Durban, including Theatre, "to let" — A Model Tram Service — A good Word for the Coolies in Natal — Fruit Export to the Cape Colony — Natal not feared as Competitor in the Trade to the Interior — Beira the Natural Port of Rhodesia, Delagoa of the Transvaal — Eloquent and Stubborn Figures — Geographical Facts — Comparison of the Distances by Land and Sea — Pre sent Prices of Transport — Future of Eastern, or Suez Sea Route — Advantage of having Rhodes as our Premier at present ILLUSTRATIONS Page Ancient Building, Zimbabwe ....

Frontispiece Ant-heap near the Notwani River ..... 22 Mahogany Tree. Palapye 36 Remnants of a Banquet, Bulawayo ..... 52 At Bulawayo 74 On the Shangani ........ 80 Forest near the Shangani 88 Store, Hartley Hills 94 At the Selukwe Gold-fields 104 Native Huts, Zimbabwe ....... 128 Zimbabwe .......... 144 Hut Building, Selukwe 148 Granite Wall, Zimbabwe 160 Ruins at Zimbabwe ........ 16S At Zimbabwe . ........ 178 Outer Wall, Zimbabwe 214 b RHODESIA

Letter I Bullock-waggon Versus Railway

How the Dutch Pioneer opened the Country with his Ox waggon — The English following with Telegraph and Railway — Praises of the " slow but sure " Ox and Ox waggon — Still indispensable — Difference between former and present Pioneers — Ox-waggon preceding Railway — Rhodes the present Pioneer — Africa the Land of the Future — Why so long unknown — High and healthy — ■ No Waterways, awaiting the Railway — From Cape to Cairo — Two Signboards — Co-operation of English and Dutch. Ramoutsa, July 20, 1894. Dear Friends, — Sketches of our travels once more. On a former occasion we took you first through England, Holland, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy ; from there to Egypt and Palestine ; thence through Turkey, Austria, France and Belgium, and then via England back to our beloved fatherland. Afterwards we gave you an extensive description of our " Travels through Bible Lands."

And on a later occasion we related our experiences as a member of the Transvaal Deputation to England, Holland, France, Belgium, A RHODESIA 2 Portugal and Germany, whereby we were enabled to introduce you to the courts of these various States. This time we describe our own country. Latterly the opening up of the Northern regions drew so much attention, especially those regions between the Limpopo and the Zambesi, that we decided to go and see for ourselves and give you a true description of our own experiences and observations. Our journey goes in the first place to Bulawayo via Vryburg and Mafeking. Naturally the first half is done by rail, as far as Vryburg, the extension to Mafeking being still under construction. Our light, but strongly built spring-waggon, with tent affixed, was forwarded a few days in advance, together with a good supply of tinned and other provisions, and Thursday evening, July 5, Mr. G. J. Malherbe and myself left the Paarl station by rail for Vryburg, where we arrived on Saturday evening.

Monday afternoon we left Vryburg for Mafeking, a distance by rail of 102 miles, but with the winding waggon road about 125 miles. Thus travelling with the slow ox-waggon, after leaving the train, and along side the construction train — spending four days on the distance traversed by the train in a few hours — we immediately had time for observation, reflection, and conversation, of which we give you a glimpse. What a contrast when you exchange the train for the bullock-waggon ! The boiling locomotive is so much faster than the slow ox, P'rom the Paarl to BULLOCK- WAGGON VERSUS RAILWAY 3 Vryburg — a distance of 774 miles — it took us 46 hours. We get so accustomed to speed. But it does not need a very strong memory to recollect the time when it required good travelling to cover the distance between the Paarl and the Orange River in a month.

But we should be guilty of the usual superficialness of our time (so often condemned by us), if we were satisfied with this general observation, as if the ox waggon were now completely superseded by the train in South Africa. The old Dutch pioneer opened up the country with his ox-waggon, the English now do it with telegraph and railway. We live in a time of transition from the ox-waggon to the railway. What can be more suitable than to reflect for a moment what the ox-waggon and the railway have respectively done for the opening of the country and the development of its resources ; in how far they reciprocally require each other ; and in how far the Dutch farmer and the Englishman ought, under the same guidance of providence, to labour harmoniously together for the development of our great and good country, this land of the future.

Where is the African poet, who will worthily sing what the ox and ox-waggon have done for the opening up and development of our country? Poets have extolled in song the merits of the good-tempered camel, that ship of the desert ; poets have painted, in beautiful images, the virtues of the fleet and noble RHODESIA 4 horse ; the usefulness of the locomotive has often been extolled as high as the heavens, in song ; and far be it from me to deny their virtues and usefulness. But who will contradict me when I venture to state, that for the opening and development of South Africa the " slow but sure " ox-waggon has done more than camel, horse, and railway combined ? The ox-waggon ! It was not only the means of transport, but also the habitation, the travelling tent, the altar, the fort of the emigrant.

That waggon contained his furniture, some provisions and ammuni tion, and on the top of that his wife and children found a seat ; in the box-seat was his Bible, and in the tent of the waggon his gun hung suspended, and with that he entered the unknown interior ! If the lion threatens him, the gun is ready to hand. If the Kaffirs attack him, the waggons are quickly drawn close together in a circle, the openings are firmly closed up with thorn bushes and the wheels fastened together with the iron chains belonging to each waggon (which are used instead of "breaks") and his impregnable "fort" is ready. When Sunday or a festive day comes round, the Bible is brought out and the head of the family is at once prophet and priest, in a thorough patriarchal manner. So, you see, to him his waggon is everything.

In or alongside that waggon many a promise of marriage was blushingly given, quite as honestly meant and as sweet as those given in the most courtlike halls ; in or alongside that waggon many a BULLOCK-WAGGON VERSUS RAILWAY 5 honeymoon was spent quite as pleasant and sweet as any spent in large hotels and cities. In that waggon many children first saw daylight, and in that waggon many a dearly beloved drew the last breath. Even the first omnibus traffic between the Transvaal and Mashonaland and now again between Mafeking and Bulawayo is carried on with oxen. And how shall our pioneers occupy Matabeleland, Mashonaland and the region of the lakes, without the ox-waggon ? And what would the railway do without the ox-waggon, which has to transport produce and goods to and from the nearest station ?

For proof of this statement just look at the teams of ox-waggons loading or unload ing the trucks of the train. This proves that the ox is " slow and sure," but also that he is not too slow. See, in four days we have travelled about 125 miles from Vryburg to Mafeking, and in three and a half days — 83 miles — from Mafeking to Ramoutsa, from which place we write this. So you see, reader, that there is at present no urgent necessity to close up our waggon-manufactories. He must be very superficial and ungrateful, who thinks that we have already exchanged the ox-waggon for the train. For that waggon, the tame, patient, and strong ox was the only possible animal. The noble horse could not in that rough and unexplored interior keep up its reputation, deprived of suitable stable and forage ; and to crown all it had often to succumb to the very RHODESIA much feared "horse-sickness;" and the same applies to the mule.

The ox and the ox alone has scaled those mountains, traversed those valleys and opened the first roads. Without the ox the opening up of the interior regions — Natal, the Free State, the Transvaal — was an impossibility. Even now we simply can't do without the ox.* He remains the true pioneer in the opening up of new regions. After the ox comes the horse, and afier the horse the train ; this is the order, at least in our country. However, the man who sticks to his ox waggon alone and will have nothing to do with telegraph and railway is just as onesided as he who forgets its merits. How should we manage to-day with the ox-waggon alone, if we had not the train to Kimberley, Bloem fontein, Johannesburg, and Pretoria ? How could the diamond fields and the gold-fields have been developed without railways ; and what would the development of South Africa have been without the diamond and gold fields ?

Consequently our conclusion is : both are to us in dispensable — the ox-waggon precedes and the railway follows. Yes, the painter who wishes to depict the development of South Africa will have to commit the * What a commentary on these reflections does the rinder pest now furnish, the transport rates, with mules and donkeys, having risen from £i to £5 10s. between Mafeking and Bulawayo ! BULLOCK- WAGGON VERSUS RAILWAY 7 seeming folly of letting the ox-waggon precede the railway 1 But even in this order some change has come. The emigrant and pioneer opened up Natal, the Free State, and the Transvaal with the ox-waggon ; but Rhodes opens up Zambesia with the telegraph and railway. How much quicker everything is done now ! The de velopment of the country now makes greater strides in a few months than it formerly did in as many years, during the time of the first "trek."

Oh, how the poor pioneer had to contend with unopened roads and impassable rivers ; and now you are carried along on smooth rails and across iron bridges. Formerly they had a continual fight with lions and savages ; now you no longer hear the lion's roar, and the power of the last great heathen empire is broken. Then it took months to convey any tidings — now this sketch will travel the IOOO miles to the Paarl in five days. And what has caused this difference ? Then the Englishman was the strong opponent of emigration (trek) and now, in the person of Mr. Rhodes, he takes the initiative and assists. Then the pioneer's supply of ammunition was hindered — if not stopped — and the Kaffirs (sometimes on the sly and often openly) assisted in their fight against these noble pioneers of civilisation ; now Rhodes first breaks the tyranny, he places police everywhere for protection, he has wells dug all along the route and then invites the " Boer " to come in and live in these new regions.

Then the poor RHODESIA farmer had no market for his produce ; he could only breed cattle and exchange or sell them to traders ; now the railway opens the gold mines and the gold mines introduce the train, and both combined give the farmer a market for his produce. The road is ready and the market waits. Thus the opening of the interior is done more rapidly. And still we do not see the end — ah ! who can tell where it will end ? At first the Berg River was the boundary of civilisation, afterwards the Orange River, then the Vaal River, then the Limpopo, then the Zambesi — but where will it end ? Shall it be at Uganda or Cairo? .... We must here refer the reader to what we wrote in "Africa, the Land of the Future," written in 1890, from which we cull a few excerpts : For long ages our southern hemisphere remained totally unknown.

Only /oh*- centuries ago America and South Africa were discovered, and as regards Africa only during the last four years has this vast continent drawn the attention of the civilised world. Not long ago we visited the " Stanley and African Exhibi tion " in London. There were exhibited the maps of Africa of all centuries, and looking at them you could scarcely with hold a laugh. Yes, this was first an unknown, then a dark continent. Even the most fantastic forms were given to this land. And of that vast hinterland, what fancy dictated was marked down : and for the rest all was marked as — a desert ! But now the daylight begins to dawn over this dark con tinent, thanks to those intrepid explorers — a Livingstone and De Chaillu, a Mauch and Holub, a Stanley, an Emin, a Peters — but where will it end ?

Exploring is still in its infancy. BULLOCK-WAGGON VERSUS RAILWAY 9 This long unknown and unsought for Africa is now drawing attention everywhere ; it fills the columns of dailies and periodicals ; it opens up a new and strange world to the novelist, and a new field of exploit to the trader and speculator Even the Powers of Europe are busily engaged dividing this immense continent between themselves. It is really remarkable to note how now most of Europe's great Powers vie with each other to secure the largest share of Africa's 11,000,000 square miles of area. About 5,000,000 of it are already appropriated, and about 3,000,000 are still put down as desert. Thus only 2,500,000 remain, and only 1,000,000 of that is still available. Germany has appropriated to itself 600,000 square miles in East, and 300,000 in West Africa ; France has assumed 500,000 square miles ; the Congo Free State has gradually absorbed 1,000,000 square miles, and Italy is grasping at 2,000,000 More than once we have questioned ourselves why Euro pean nations and States thus vie with each other to secure the greatest possible share at the apportionment of Africa.

Does this competition arise from an "ahnung" or presenti ment that Africa is the land of the future, the field for their over-population and over-production ? But here the query arises : Why did this country, now so eagerly sought after, remain for such a long time unknown and closed to Europe ? The simple answer is because the whole hinterland of this vast continent forms one plateau of 3000 to 5000 feet elevation. This is a great disadvantage, because for this reason Africa's interior has got no waterways, our rivers not being navigable, as they rush down seawards over steep declines and rocky cataracts. For that reason the hinterland remained closed to civilisation, and wherever it tried to penetrate, it was hampered and obstructed in its development. On the other hand, the high elevation is a great advantage, RHODESIA 10 which thus far has only been too much overlooked.

Now this elevated plateau is extraordinarily healthy, situated as it is on both sides of the equator. Now Africa has got all the advantages of a tropical and sub-tropical climate, coupled with a fertile soil, and healthy, comparatively temperate atmosphere. Now we can boast of our Mountains of the Moon, with eternal snows on their summits, and eternal springs on their slopes. If Africa were a level country, we would have had our navigable rivers as waterways, but of what use would they be in an unhealthy, uninhabitable country ? Now we have got a vast, fertile, and healthy continent, only waiting to be opened up — by railways. Yes, the iron way and the locomotive Africa requires more than any country in the world for its opening up and development, for the very reason of its high elevation.

And already beginnings are made ; from north, south, east, and west railways are piercing deeper and deeper into the interior But however useful these different lines from the different coasts may be, the trunk line is still wanting, and as yet nobody seems to think about it. A short time ago, being in the city of London, and entering No. 5 Throgmorton Avenue, our attention was drawn to two brazen signboards on two doors adjoining each other. On the one was engraven, " Consulate of the South African Republic," and on the other, " Trans-African Railway Company." On investigation we -"ound that the railway was only a short Portuguese line on the west coast, and, as we all know, "the South African Republic " covers only a very small patch. But are both titles not prophetic ? A railway or trunk line right across Africa, from the Cape to Cairo, and a vast South African Republic — are they the dreams of a heated imagination, or the realities of the future ?

Time will show. We make one final remark. About twenty years ago, we, with our own hand, wrote in the original BULLOCK-WAGGON lTERSUS RAILWAY n constitution of the Africander Bond, the motto, "A united South Africa under its own flag." Up to the present we have remained true to that watchword, with this slight modification, "A united South Africa under British Coast Protection." And even this last not with the remotest idea of driving out of the country, in a revolutionary manner, the law fully established supremacy of England. No ! but we wish (as has before been said) to grow up to a national self-existence in a constitutional way and in God's own good time. Let us not ignore the guidance of providence. God has given us England as a guardian, a more considerate one than Israel found in Pharoah of old.

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