Observations in the East, chiefly in Egypt, Palestine, Syria, and Asia Minor

Preface

. In the Preface to a former work,* I promised to offer to my friends and the public the results of my obser vations during an extended tour in the East, through Egypt, Arabia, Palestine, Syria, and Asia Minor. That promise is now redeemed. Believing that readers of a book of travels are not likely to take an interest in any scenes which have not impressed themselves so strongly upon the writer's mind as to remain distinctly in his memory, I have ex cluded from these pages such portions of my journals as I found, upon reading them after the lapse of a con siderable time, to have escaped my recollection. I may hope, therefore, that the brief descriptions here given of scenes and incidents that have left a permanent impression upon my own mind, will be a source of pleasure, and perhaps of profit, at least to my friends.

Although the reader will be disappointed if he looks for profound research, topographical or antiquarian, in these pages, I may venture to hope that in the ob servations on various questions connected with the fate of Christianity in the East, which are scattered through the volumes, sometimes interwoven with the narrative, but generally imbodied in distinct chapters, there will * Observations in Europe.

PREFACE.

. be found some important views that have not been pre sented by my distinguished countrymen who have so lately travelled over the same regions. Indeed, a part of the ground, especially in Syria and Asia Minor, is nearly untrodden by American travellers. In regard to topography, the only new view that I offer in these pages is that of the Exode of Israel from Egypt, for which I have suggested a route differing, in part at least, from any other that I have seen. The reader must judge of the value of the suggestion. My principal guide-book in the Holy Land, besides the Bible, was the Biblical Researches of Messrs. Rob inson and Smith. Their exceeding accuracy was a matter of daily surprise to me in my travels through Palestine ; and I must express a deep sense of obligation to such indefatigable and successful observers.

I had not then seen Dr. Olin's excellent volumes, which convey a great amount of information, also remarkably accurate. His first volume contains the best account of Egypt that has appeared in this country — perhaps in the language. I was accompanied during my travels by three young friends, the Rev. Thomas Sewall, of the Baltimore Con ference, Mr. James Cortlan, of Baltimore, and Mr. J. O'Hara Denny, of Pittsburg, to whose vivacity and constant disposition to oblige I was greatly indebted. Their presence with me will explain the use of the pro noun we in these volumes. J. P. Durbin. September, 1845. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Naples To Alexandria

Departure from Naples. — Company on Board. — Malta. — Wild Maltese.— Valetta.— Knights of St. John.— Their History.— Cathedral of St. John.— Departure from Malta. — Steamer Scamander. — Syra. — Steamer Dante. — Motley Company. — First Sight of Egypt. — Landing at Alexandria. — Hotel de l'Europe. — American Consul. — Slave Market . . . Page 1

Chapter II. Alexandria

Donkeys and Drivers. — Ruins of the Ancient City.— Pompey's Pillar. — Cleo patra's Needles.— Pharos. — The Palace. — A Sentinel. — Bazars. — The Frank Quarter. — Ancient Alexandria 11

Chapter III. Alexandria To Cairo

Departure from Alexandria. — Camel-drivers. — The Canal. — Atfeh. — Mehemet Ali's Mode of digging Canals. — The Nile. — Appearance of the Country. — Mud Villages on the Nile. — Washerwomen. — Departure from Atfeh. — Getting the wrong Boat. — An uncertain Wind. — Primitive Agriculture. — Boats on the River. — A suspicious Village. — Walks on the Shore. — The Murrain of Cattle. — First Sight of the Pyramids. — Boulak. — Arrival at Cairo 19

Chapter IV. Cairo

A F6te.— Strange Festivities.— Mr. Gliddon.— Walk through the City.— The Quarters. — Streets and Houses. — Courts. — Costumes. — Dresses of Ladies. — Of Women ofthe Lower Orders. — Appearance ofthe People. — Ophthalmia. — The Citadel.— Palace.— The Mint. — Joseph's Well.— Massacre of he Mamelukes.— Mosque of the Hasaneyn. — Cemeteries. — The Pacha's Tomb. — The Mission-house 31

Chapter V

Heliopolis.— Obelisk.— Ravages of Time.— A Patriarch.— Shoubra.— The Pacha's Villa 48 A2 VI CONTENTS.

Chapter VI. The Pyramids

The Nilometer.— Moses in the Bulrushes.— Officious Guides.— Pyramid of Cheops.— Ascent.— View from the Summit.— A Climbing Arab.— Interior of the Great Pyramid.— Queen's Chamber.— King's Chamber.— General View of the Pyramids. — Relative Positions and Dimensions. — Cheops. — Cephrenes. — Mycerinus. — Smaller Pyramids and Tombs. — Object of the Builders of Pyramids.— Time of their Erection. — The Sphinx . Page 51

Chapter VII. Ancient Memphis

Sakhara. — Tombs and Pyramids. — Mummy Birds. — Metrahenny.— Site of Memphis.— Return to Cairo.— Mr. Leider and the Coptic Mission. — Its Prospects.— Schools. — The Copts. — Their Number and Position in Egypt. — Their Doctrines and Church Government 64

Chapter VIII. Mehemet Ali And His Policy

Birth and Early History of Mehemet Ali. — His Rise in the Army. — Named Pacha of Egypt. — Strifes with the Mamelukes. — Their Massacre. — Introduction of European Discipline. — Colonel Seves. — Creation of an Army and Navy. — Conquest of Syria. — The Pasha aims at Independent Sovereignty. — Interference of the European Powers. — Bombardment of Beyrout and Acre. — Designs of France and England in the East. — Policy of England. — Character of Mehemet Ali's Government . . . .69

Chapter IX. Cairo To Suez

ROUTE OF THE ISRAELITES. Preparation for Departure. — Tualeb. — Striking a Bargain. — Loading Camels. — Departure from Cairo. — View from Besatin. — Difficulty of determining the Route of Israel. — Valley of the Wanderings. — Petrified Forest. — Gebel Rhiboun. — Probable Point of Israel's Departure. — Position of Rameses. — Of Zoan. — Inferences from the Narrative in Exodus. — Length of the Journeys not decided by the Narrative. — Etham . . . .88

Chapter X. Route Of The Israelites

Wady et Tawarik.— " The Wilderness." — Gebel Atakah.— Pi-ha-hiroth. — The Red Sea. — Conditions of the Scripture Narrative not fulfilled at Suez. — Plain of Baideah. — Comparison of the different Routes proposed. — Raumer's View. — No limitation of the Times of journeying set in Scripture. — Conclusions .... CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XI

Shore of the Red Sea. — Approach to Suez. — Appearance of the Town. — Bedouin Tent. — Crossing the Red Sea. — Land in Asia. — Wells of Moses. — An Arab Mansion. — Miriam's Song. — Wilderness of Shur. — Encampment. — Our Company. — Arabs Sleeping. — Our Tent. — George's skilful Catering. — Life in the Desert. — Good Nature of the Arabs . Page 109

Chapter XII. The Desert Of Arabia

Bitter Waters of Marah — Wady Ghurundel— Elim.— The Twelve Wells.— First Sight of Mount Serbal. — Graves ofthe Guilty.— Encampment of Israel by the Red Sea. — A dangerous Passage. — Wilderness of Sin. — Wady Shellal. — Sinaitic Inscriptions 117

Chapter XIII. Wilderness Of Sinai

Appeal to my Ambition. — Offer of a Young Wife. — A Dinner spoiled for Tualeb. — Wady Feiran. — Gebel Serbal. — Oasis in the Desert. — An Arab Village. — Making Acquaintances. — Stone Huts. — A Deserted City. — Feiran. — A Retired Cemetery. — Ruins ofthe Episcopal Church of Feiran. — Tualeb at Home. — Singular aluminous Deposite. — Was Serbal the Sinai of Scripture? — An Apollo in the Desert. — Pass of El-Deir.— First Sight of Mount Sinai. — Vale of Jethro. — Arrival at the Convent.— Reception . 12C

Chapter XIV. Mount Sinai

Convent of St. Catharine. — Sunrise. — Church of Justinian. — Greek Service in the Church.— The Sanctuary. — Chapel of the Burning Bush.— The Cemetery. — Gebel Mousa. — Ascent of the Mountain. — Monkish Legends. — Chapel of the Virgin. — Spring of Elijah. — Mohammed's Camel-track. — Gebel Mousa not the Sinai of Scripture. — Grounds of this Conclusion. — Ascent of Suksafeh.— The True Sinai 137

Chapter XV. Sinai

buksafeh the True Sinai.— Tape-Measures better than Traditions.— Acknowledgments to Dr. Robinson.— Dr. Olin's independent Observations.— No Place for Doubt.— Descent from the Mountain.— Garden of the Convent—Activity of the Arab Boys.— The Rock of Moses in Horeb.— Impressions.— Last Night in the Convent.— Departure . . . .146 CONTENTS.

Chapter XVI. Sinai To Akabah

Encampment in Wady S'AL— Tomb of Saleh.— Sprinkling of Blood upon the Door-posts.— Geological Features of the Country.— El-Ghor.— Wild Gorge.— Grove of Palms.— The Beach— The Gulf.— Solitude of Ihe Desert.— Arrival at Akabah.— Reception by the Governor.— Paying our Escort. — Parting with our Arabs.— The Fortress of Akabah. — Its Inhabitants. — The Vicinity.— Eloth.— Mussulmen at their Devotions.— Amusements at Akabah Page '51

Chapter XVII. Akabah To Petra

Return of Hussein.— Bargaining.— A Delicate Negotiation. — Conclusion.— Departure from Akabah. — Hussein the Alouin. — Valley of the Arabah. — Encampment. — Jotbath. — A Surprise. — A Mountain Tomb. — Gebel Haroun. — Tomb of Aaron. — Descent ofthe Mountain. — View from the Summit. — Descent from the Mountain. — Petra 160

Chapter XVIII. Petra

Boundaries of the Vale of Petra. — Different Ways of Access. — The Sik. — Pavement. — Aqueducts. — Triumphal Arch. — Tombs. — The Treasury of Pharaoh. — Guard-house. — Tomb with Greek Inscription. — Theatre. — Sepulchre opposite. — View of the City Area. — Tombs in tbe Eastern Cliffs. — Corinthian Tomb. — Tombs in the Western Cliffs. — Unfinished Sepulchre 169

Chapter XIX. Petra

Ascent to El-Deir. — The Temple. — Remarkable Ruin. — View from the Summit. — Staircase in the Mountain Side. —City Proper. — Ancient Population of Petra.— Question as to the Excavations. — Historical Sketch. — Question as to Identity of Petra. — Scripture Prophecies Relating to Petra.— Their Fulfilment. — Causes of its Ancient Splendour. — Decay. — Overstraining of Prophecy 180

Chapter XX

People of Wady Mousa. — The Servant of Haroun. — Departure from Petra. - Washington's Birthday. — Loss of a Camel. — Heavy Rains. — Summit-level of the Arabah. — Said's Story. — Kadesh Barnea. — Apprehensions of Conflict. — Pleasant Disappointment.— The Caravan.— Position of Kadesh Barnea. — Pass Es Si f&h. — The Promised Land CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XXI. The Holy Land

Shooting a Gazelle.— Venison.— Aroer — The Wells of Beersheba. — Ancient Scenes.— Flocks, Herds, and Tents. — Pasture-grounds of Abraham.— Dwellings in Caves. — Ancient Cisterns. — Ancient Road. — Approach to Hebron. — The City.— The Pool.— The Harem.— Cave of Machpelah. — Tombs ofthe Patriarchs. — Said's Description. — Appearance ofthe City. — Women Mourning in the Cemetery. — Parting with the Alouins . Page 201

Chapter XXII. Hebron To Jerusalem

Route from Hebron. — Desolate Region. — Pools of Solomon. — The great Aqueduct. — Bethlehem. — Dilapidated Appearance of the Place. — Trade in pious Toys. — The Convent. — Roman Catholic Service. — Greek Service.— Tomb of Jerome. — Pretended Birthplace of Christ. — Tomb of Rachel. — First View of Jerusalem. — Disappointment. — Quarantine. — Kindness of Friends. — Carnival. — Negotiations 214

Chapter XXIII. Jerusalem

— WALK I. The City Walls. — Walking under Guard. — General View ot the City.— Valleys. — Hills. — Bezetha. — Its Appearance. — Moriah. — The Mosque of Omar. — Zion. — Akra. — Gloomy Appearance of the City. — The Environs. — The Mount of Olives. — Upper Pool of Gihon. — Lower Pool. — Hill of Offence 226

Chapter XXIV. Jerusalem

— WALK II. TO THE TOMBS OF THE JUDGES, AND DOWN THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. Great Plains Northwest of the City. — Tombs of the Judges. — Why so called. — Course of the Valley of Jehoshaphat. — Tombs of the Kings. — Various Apartments. — Pleasant Rural Scene. — Tomb of the Virgin Mary. — Tomb of Absalom. — Of Jehoshaphat. — Of St. James. — Of Zechariah. — Cemetery of the Jews.— Village of Siloam. — Potter's Field . . 233

Chapter XXV. Jerusalem

— WALK III. EXCURSION TO BETHANY. Damascus Gate.— Turkish Soldiers.— Grotto of Jeremiah.— Road to Bethany. — Tombs of the Prophets. — Various Chambers and Excavations. — Path trodden by the Feet of Christ— Scenes of his Walks.— Of his Entry X CONTENTS. into Jerusalem.— Of his Weeping over Jerusalem— Of the Ascension. — Convent of Black Nuns.— Friendship of Jesus and Lazarus.— Remains of the Church of the Ascension Pag1* 241

Chapter XXVI

JERUSALEM— WALK IV. INTERIOR OF THE CITY. Release from Quarantine.— Lodgings in the Latin Convent.— Call on Mrs. Whiting. — Pleasant Impressions. — Mr. Nicolayson. — Visit to a Rich Jew. — A Jewish Family. — An Eventful History. — Conversation with the Jew. —Streets of Jerusalem.— An Old Bazar.— The Turkish Bath . . 252

Chapter XXVII

JERUSALEM— WALK V. DOWN GIHON AND HINNOM TO THE VALLEY OF JEHOSH- APHAT. Head ofthe Gihon. — The Upper Pool. — The Lower Pool. — Valley of Hinnom — Tophet. — Idolatry ofthe Jewish Kings. — Well of Nehemiah. — En-Rogel. — Ancient Mulberry-tree. — Ophel. — Pool and Fountain of Siloam. — Subterranean Channel. — Fountain of the Virgin. — Moving of the Waters. — Tents in the Valley.— An Arab Family 260

Chapter XXVIII. Jerusalem

— WALK VI. MOUNT ZION. The Citadel. — Tower of Hippicus. — The Armenian Convent. — Church of St. James. — Tawdry Ornaments. — Zion without the Walls.— House of Caiaphas. — Stone which closed the Sepulchre of Christ. — Christian Cem eteries. — Tomb of David. — The Cœnaculum. — Eastern Part of Zion. — Aqueduct from Solomon's Pools. — Colony of Lepers. — Forms of Leprosy. — Remains of Ancient Bridge connecting the Temple with Mount Zion. — Difficulty of Access. — A Surly Gate-keeper. — Walls of the Temple Area. — Their Various Dates. — Great Antiquity of the Lower Courses. — Fragment of the Arch. — Measurements. — Historical Question. — Controversy as to the Discovery of the Arch. — The Jews' Quarter. — Jews' Place of Wailing 269

Chapter XXIX. Jerusalem

— WALK VII. GETHSEMANE. THE ENCLOSURE OF THE TEMPLE. Gethsemane. — Pool of Bethesda. — Enclosure of the Temple. — Peep at the Interior.— View from Governor's House.— Mr. Catherwood's Account. CONTENTS. Difficulty of Gaining Admittance. — Stratagem. — Danger. — Rescue. — En trance. — Platform of the Mosque. — The Mosque of Omar. — Natural Rock under the Dome.— The Noble Cave.— The Well of Souls.— Pilgrims.— Mosque El-Aksa.— Vaults.— Identity of Site of the Ancient Temple.— Dimensions of Area. — Conclusions Page 279

Chapter XXX. The Via Dolorosa

THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. JERUSALEM.— WALK VIII. Via Dolorosa. — Ecce Homo. — Church of the Holy Sepulchre. — First Impressions. — The Court.— Pilgrims.— Buyers and Sellers. — The Vestibule. — Stone of Unction. — The Nave.— Sepulchre. — Tomb of Joseph of Arimathea. — Chapel of Franciscans. — Chapel of the Greeks. — Altars. — Monkish Traditions. — Chapel of Helena. — Place of the Finding of the Crosses. — The Supposed Calvary. — Disputes about Possession of the Church. — Degrading Exhibitions of Christianity in Jerusalem. — Controversy as to the Identity of the Sepulchre.— Views of different Travellers. — The Tradition rejected.— Grounds of this Rejection. — Invalidated by both History and Topography ... 294

Chapter XXXI. Restoration Of The Jews

Four Interpretations of Prophecies relating to the Restoration. — The last adopted. — Prophecies adduced and examined. — A literal Restoration set forth by Ezekiel and Jeremiah. — A political State to be constituted. — Proofs from the New Testament.— Conversion of the Jews to be connected with their Restoration.— Collateral Questions. — Ezekiel's Valley of Vision. — Restoration of the Ten Tribes. — Second Advent to be preceded by the Restoration. — Duty of Christians in regard to the Israelites.— Their Restoration closely connected with the Triumph of Christianity. — Dispersion of the Jews. — Characteristics. — Their influence in Literature and Politics. — Adaptation for the Missionary Work. — Signs of the Times.— Present State of the Jewish Mind. — Sentiments of Christians towards the Jews. —The State of Palestine.— Condition of the Turkish Empire . .311 OBSERVATIONS IN THE EAST.

Chapter I. Naples To Alexandria

Departure from Naples. — Company on Board. — Malta. — Wild Maltese. — Valetta.— Knights of St. John.— Their History.— Cathedral of St. John.— Departure from Malta. — Steamer Scamander. — Syra. — Steamer Dante. — Motley Company. — First Sight of Egypt.— Landing at Alexandria. — Hotel de l'Europe. — American Consul. — Slave Market. Amid the roar of cannon accompanying the closing hours of the Christmas festival, we embarked in the fine steamer Eurotas, and soon bade farewell to the Bay of Naples. Our vessel was an excellent sea-boat, very tight and steady. The officers, though Frenchmen, were distant, haughty, and exceedingly reserved ; but the company on board was excellent, which made the trip to Malta very agreeable. We had, among the rest, two Capu cins, on their way to India as missionaries ; one of them bigoted and morose enough, but the other a cheerful, even jovial fellow.

I spent the two evenings of our stay on board delightfully, walking the deck — Christ mas week though it was — as if it were summer, watch ing the receding shores, first of Calabria, then of Sicily and talking with my pleasant Capucin, who, in spite of his coarse brown cloak and hood, was full of good fellowship. At three o'clock on the afternoon of December 27th, Vol. I.— A MALTA. VALETTA we came to anchor under the walls of Valetta. A set of wild Maltese immediately boarded us, who had to be literally kicked out by the officers ; and when we reached the landing another gang assailed us — tawny, savage looking fellows— whose wild gestures and mongrel lan guage convinced us that we were passing into the region of Oriental influences. The wharves and streets were infested with these semi- Arabs.

"We made good our es cape from them by the aid of George, our Greek courier, whom we had engaged at Naples, and the interposition of a police officer, and soon found our way to the Clar ence Hotel, in the Strada Reale, where we felt that we were still in Europe. Although our stay in Malta was so short that we could not do more than see Valetta and its environs, we yet found enough to make us wish that we had more time at our disposal. The city itself is a curiosity in many respects. It is, perhaps, next to Gibraltar, the most im pregnable position in the world. It appeared to us, on entering the harbour, that the fortresses which guard its narrow mouth might not only resist, but even annihilate, any naval force that could be brought against them. The frowning forts of St. Elmo on the right, and Rica soli on the left, could crush the most powerful vessel in passing through the narrow entrance.

The city is neat, well built, and contains about 40,000 inhabitants. Its massive walls rise from the water's edge, and are sur mounted with heavy ordnance, so that on all sides it appears like a fortress rather than a town. Such, indeed, its founder, Valette, the most celebrated of the grand masters of the Order of St. John, intended it to be. Driven from Rhodes by the Turks in 1522, the knights established themselves in Malta, and deter mined to fortify their position against any possible at- KNIGHTS OF MALTA. 3 tacks of the Saracens. Solyman the Magnificent, who had driven them from Rhodes, determined, in 1565, to accomplish their expulsion from Malta, and sent Mus tapha Pacha, with 30,000 men and ample munitions of war, to execute his purpose. The siege, which is the most memorable, perhaps, in history for its severity, was raised at the end of four months, and the knights were left in peace, but their town and fortress were bat tered to pieces.

La Valette laid the foundation of the new city which bears his name in 1566, and commen ced the marvellous fortifications which are still the won der of the world. The history of the Knights Hospitallers, up to the sev enteenth century, is a splendid one, full of all the elements of romance. After that period their exploits were com paratively insignificant, though their wealth and splendour continued to increase. The city of Valetta con tains abundant monuments of their taste and magnificence. Each grand master attempted to excel his pred ecessors in beautifying the capital, and adding to the strength of its fortifications. The order was divided into eight langues or nations — the German, Italian, Cas tilian, Aragonese, Proven-pal, Auvergnese, French, and English. The English branch of the order, however, was dissolved by Henry VIII., and its property in Brit ain confiscated.

Each of these branches had immense possessions in the different countries of Europe, and much of their revenue was spent in Malta. This will account for the enormous forts, the subterranean excavations, and the splendid palaces which remain in the island to attest the wealth and enterprise of the knights. Each langue had its separate palace in Valetta, and these splendid edifices constitute the principal charm of the city. These abodes of luxury were occupied by the VALETTA. knights until 1798, when the fleet of Napoleon, on its way to Egypt, appeared before the harbour, and the de generate descendants of L'lsle Adam and La Valette gave up their stronghold without striking a blow. This was the virtual end of the order ; the knights were scat tered over Europe, and the island was retained by the French for a year and a half, when they, in their turn, surrendered it to the English, after a most pertinacious and heroic resistance.

By the Treaty of Amiens, the English government engaged unequivocally to restore the independence of the island ; but it was too important a post to be easily parted with, and the government determined to break its promise. The best English authorities have condemned this breach of treaty ; but the great advantage to England of possessing such a for tress in the Mediterranean is too powerful for her sense of conventional honour, and the island still remains under her dominion. The mildness and equity of her admin istration, together with a great increase of population and wealth, have reconciled the inhabitants to her swav ; and civilization in the East may yet be largely indebted to the English occupation of Malta. But to return to Valetta. The principal street of the city is the Strada Reale, which runs along on the summit of the ridge or promontory between the two harbours, from Fort St. Elmo to the chief gate leading out into the interior of the island.

It is a very fine street. The building material is the light yellow limestone of the isl and. The governor's residence, situated in the Strada Reale, and formerly the palace ofthe grand master, is a spacious and imposing building. In the same street are the exchange, the library, and the principal hotels and shops. The other streets of the city run parallel to this, and are connected with it by various flights of stone CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN. 5 steps, the ascent being too steep on either side to allow of a carriage way. The Cathedral of St. John is an immense edifice, though presenting no external display of magnificence. We visited it by candlelight, and a most interesting visit it was. As we walked over its rich mosaic pavement, emblazoned with the armorial bearings of the knights who sleep below — wandered through the side-chapels belonging to the different langues, adorned with paintings and rich in sculpture, and descended into the solemn crypt, filled with monuments of the grand masters in bronze or marble, and hung with highly-wrought tap estry representing the life of the Saviour, we could not but recall to mind the days of chivalry of which these valiant knights of St. John were so distinguished an or nament.

Few edifices in Europe are more impressive than this Cathedral. But I must say no more of our stay in Malta. We should have prolonged it gladly had our plans allowed ; but the winter was rapidly passing, and we were has tening to the East. The fine French steamer Scaman der was in the western or quarantine port ; a small boat took our luggage, another ourselves, to the side of the vessel, as she lay in quarantine, where we were desert ed by the officers who had accompanied us. We felt, as we ascended to the deck, that we were cut off from Eu rope, for we had entered the dominion of the Plague. Five minutes after the anchor was weighed we were rising and sinking upon the sea-waves, so closely is Mal ta invested by the Mediterranean. We had chiefly the same passengers who had em barked with us from Naples.

The weather was mild, and we remained on deck nearly the whole time. The sailors were barefooted, and every morning were en- A2 GREECE. PASSENGERS. gaged in scrubbing and flooding the ship. The metal parts were polished and oiled ; everything was kept in order without noise. On the morning of December 30 we came in sight of Greece, and ran along the southern coast all day. Her mountains were in view, among which the snowy Taygetus appeared pre-eminent. Night came down upon us off the Gulf of Nauplia ; and, as the sun rose next morning, we let go our an chor in the beautiful semicircular bay of Syra, and hastening on deck, I found myself amid the isles of Greece. It is impossible to give the reader any just conceptions of the profound and pleasing emotions which a traveller experiences when, for the first time, he can say, I am in Greece !

But we are bound for the East, and must not loiter by the way, even in Greece. So, on the afternoon of New- Year's day, we transhipped from the Scamander to the Dante, another French steamer, bound to Alex andria in Egypt. We lost by the change, for, although she was strongly built, she was slow of speed and badly found. But we had the world on board. There were Turks, Tartars, English, Germans, Italians, Greeks, Armenians, French, Americans, and what not, all ex hibiting their national and habitual peculiarities. The French sailors, in groups on the forward deck, sung the lively airs of their own beautiful France ; the grave, dignified, dirty Turks hovered around the engine-chimney, and chanted a low, wild, guttural music, in which I could distinguish the word Allah often repeated. Some of them rolled themselves up in their quilts, and lay down over the boilers for warmth, while the passengers from more northern and unpropitious climes, and of more ac tive habits, walked the ship, freely enjoying the cool, re freshing sea-breeze.

Several Turks retired to the cabin, ALEXANDRIA. and sat cross-legged in their berths ; how could they sit upright upon chairs like Christians ? Our party and the Capucins retreated to the cabin adjoining, after having invoked Æolus and Neptune to be more propitious to us than they had been to Paul, when he was in " a ship of Alexandria," on his way to appeal to Cæsar against an avaricious governor of Judea. But our invocation was in vain, for about midnight the sea was up ; to wards morning " no small tempest was upon us ;" and all next day and night the " Euroclydon" was on the waste world of angry waters, and we, with one lone sail to leeward, were the only living things visible on the raging, desolate domain. On the morning of the fifth of January, as the sun struggled up through the clouds which pressed down heavily on the sea, the low coast of Egypt showed its sand-swells to the east of the Pharos, or lighthouse of Al exandria, and in the course of an hour the fort and indent ed sand-coast became visible to the west.

The sea was exceedingly high, and the pilot-boat had much difficulty in getting to windward so as to give us the direction of the narrow channel between the shore and the breakers which extend westward from the lighthouse. But, having once got our bearings, our gallant steamer moved into the deep, safe harbour, and took her station amid the fleet of merchantmen and Egyptian ships of war. It was an animating sight. But when our anchor was down, then indeed commenced the wild hurrah. Count less caiques and skiffs crowded to the sides of the ship to obtain passengers and luggage. They were full of half-naked, tawny, dirty Arabs and jet black Nubians ; the first with heavy coifs around their heads, and the latter with a loose white shirt, and trousers made of coarse muslin, rolled round their thighs, and coiled up LANDING. below their knees.

Every one talked at the top of his voice, and often with gesticulations so violent as to in dicate that momentous matters depended on his being heard. Fortunately, Mr. Rhey, of the Hotel de l'Eu rope, met with our courier, and, with the aid of his ser vants, we were all soon disembarked with our luggage, and landed on the dock near the Custom-house. There we found a ragged, wild-looking crowd, with saddled donkeys for passengers, and camels for luggage. The rush upon us was more violent and boisterous than at Malta. We were about to be taken by force, when Mr. Rhey interfered and put us in his carriage, and pointing to a camel, it stalked forward at the bidding, kneeled down with a complaining groan, and Jay quietly on its belly. The confused pile of cordage coiled up on the huge wooden packsaddle on the back of the animal was soon opened out into a net-work, spreading on the ground on each side of him, upon which our luggage being placed, and the meshes drawn up by cords so as to bring the load upon the sides and back of the beast, he rose at the bidding of his driver, and moved away.