Observations in Europe, principally in France and Great Britain

Front matter

PLAN or the FORTIFICATIONS ofthe CITY of PARIS with various lines oFJire of tho detached forts and an indication of the range of SIX THOUSAND METRES \\Iiic4i mavbe bbtained by mortars oflon& bore, or ahi Villautrovs astor tlie authorities of Artillery. 9CAM-: OT COOO MET. | i i I lj . I : I 1 1 1 1 . 400 IM10 fcOOO \ssstst tool) ..om. h.mm Mel . OBSERVATIONS IN EUROPE, PRINCIPALLY IN FRANCE AND GREAT BRITAIN. BY JOHN P. DUR BIN, D.D., PRESIDENT OF DICKINSON COLLEOE. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. NE W-YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, 82 C I. IFF- STREET. 184 4. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1844, by Harper &, Brothers, In the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of New-York.

Preface

. Without making an apology for doing what I might have left undone, viz., writing this book, I deem it right to give my reader a word or two of explanation as to the circumstances under which it was prepared. When I left home my thoughts were full of the East, and I confess it was my design to inflict a book of travels in that interesting region upon the patience of my friends in the Western world. In Egypt, Arabia, Palestine, Asia Minor, and even in Greece, I thought new material enough might be found to allow me to say something without going over topics already worn out. While in those countries, besides noticing the ordinary objects that excite the attention of the traveller, I made careful inquiry, so far as my opportunities allowed, into the state of the Greek and Armenian churches, and the condition of the Turkish Empire, now so intimately connected with the state of Christianity in the East.

My letters suggested these topics to my friends at home, and they had reason to expect that I would treat them, on my return, more at length, and in a more permanent form. Reasons, both of a public and a private nature, in duced me to postpone, for a time at least, the publica tion of my Eastern journal, and to prepare for the press A2 VI

PREFACE.

. a brief account of some parts of my tour in Europe, with notices of prominent topics of interest at present attracting the attention of the world. These are offer ed to the reader in the present volumes. At a future time, I may present to the reader the observations re ferred to on Eastern topics, in which, certainly, my own feelings are much more deeply interested. I am aware that the opinions expressed in the following pages on several important subjects differ from those that are current among us ; and I frankly confess that they are at variance with those which I entertained myself before I went abroad. I trust that none of them will be found to be entirely unsustained. A number of pages in the second volume are taken up with an account of Wesleyan Methodism in England. In view of the importance of this religious body in that country, and especially of its great and increasing influ ence in America, I deem no apology necessary for en tering into detail upon the subject.

Methodists, of course, will not object to it ; and others, who take an interest in the progress of religion and of human society, will not be unwilling to learn something of so pow erful an agency. One word as to the spirit in which these pages are written. Though I have spoken with severity of the evils and abuses that forced themselves upon my attention abroad, I have not written with an anti-French or anti- English, but, I trust, with a truly American feeling. Dickinson College, April, 1844. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I. New-york To Paris

Departure. — Sea-sickness. — Glimpse of England. — Approach to Havre. — Passports. — Dinner in eight Days. — Physique of the French. — Female Menof-business. — Feats of Strength.— Police. — The Seine. — Honfleur. — Arthur and Louise. — Lillebonne. — Caudebec. — Rouen. — French Hotels. — Boulevards. — Appearance of the City. — Cathedral. — Worship. — Stained-glass Windows. — Their Uses. — Heart of Cœur de Lion. — Memory of Napoleon. — Palace of Justice. — Lawyers' Hall. — English Abroad. — French River Steamers. — Elbeuf. — Hill of the two Lovers.— Washerwomen. — Duchess of Guercheville. — La Pecq. — Paris Page 13

Chapter II. Paris

Getting Lodgings. — Rev. Mr. Toase. — Restaurants and Cafts. — Ladies at Restaurants. — Social Arrangements of Parisians.— Dwellings. — Wesleyan Chapel. — First Sunday in Paris. — Champs Elysees. — Amusements. — Good Behaviour. — Napoleon Column. — View of Paris from the Column. — Chamber of Deputies. — Bois de Boulogne. — Duelling. — Royal Carriage. — Jardin des Plantes.— Menagerie. — Cedar of Lebanon.— Museum of Natural History.— Museum of Comparative Anatomy. — Craniology. — Museum of Mineralogy and Geology. — Fossil Skeletons.— Statue of Cuvier. — Chamber of Peers ............ 36

Chapter III. Paris

The Pantheon. — Frescoes. — Allegorical Paintings. — Death. — Vaults. — Public Slaughler-Houses. — Butchers' Shops. — Hotel des Invalides. — Veterans of the Imperial Armies. — Black Officer. — Garden Plots of the Veterans. — Busts of Napoleon. — Tomb of the Emperor. — Impressions. — Irish College. — Conversation. — American Slavery.— Emigration of Paupers and Criminals to America.— Condition of England.— Puseyism.— Origin of the Irish College.— The Duke of Orleans CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Taris Churches And Worship

Churches in Paris.— Small Number of Church Edifices.— Large Size of many of them. — Varieties of Architecture. — Notre-Dame. — Goddess of Reason. — The Concordat.— Coronation of Napoleon. — Church of the Magdalen. — Worship— Matins.— Vespers.— The Mass.— Elevation of the Host.— Impressions. — Service at Notre-Dame de Lorette .... Page 67

Chapter V. Paris

Walk from the Louvre to the Triumphal Arch. — The Louvre. — Place du Carrousel.— Palais Royal.— Tuileries.— Gardens of the Tuileries.— Place de la Concorde. — Champs Elysees. — Arch of Triumph. — Versailles. — History of the Palace. — Grounds. — Expense. — Magnitude of the Buildings. — Place d'Armes. — Grand Court. — East Front. — Garden Front.— Wings. — Gardens. — Fountains. — " A toutes les gloires de la France" . . .79

Chapter VI. Paris

Arts in Paris. — The Louvre. — Museum of Marine.— Galleries of Paintings and Sculpture. — Picture Gazers. — Enthusiastic Artists. — Spanish Gallery. — Modern French Gallery. — All open to the Public. — Influence upon the Taste and Feelings ofthe common People. — Royal Library. — Autographs. —A Billet-doux of Franklin's 88

Chapter VII. Paris

Catacombs. — Difficulty of obtaining Admission. — Kindness of General Cass. — Quarries under the City converted into Catacombs. — Entrance. — Inscriptions. — Arrangement of the Remains. — Impressions. — Life among the Dead. — Alarm. — Above Ground again. — P'ere la Chaise. — History. — Arrangement of the Cemetery. — Flowers. — Tombs of Abelard and Heloise. — Of Laplace. — Of the Marshals of France. — Grave of Ney. — Tomb of W. W. M., of New-Jersey 94

Chapter VIII. General View Of Paris

Three fine Localities. — Bridges over the Seine. — Quays. — Boulevards. — Narrow Streets. — Pavements. — Houses. — Chimney-pipes. — French and American Feelings contrasted. — Octroi. — Evidences of Prosperity.— New Build ings. — Increase in Number of private Carriages . . CONTENTS. IX

Chapter IX. Morals Of Paris

Desecration of the Sabbath. — Foundling Hospital. — Infanticide.— Prostitution. — English Exaggerations. — Paris not France in Morals. — Indulgence of Vice in the Metropolis.— Revolution. — Position of Woman.— Marriages of Convenience. — Legalized Vice. — Influence of Roman Catholic Usages. — Modern French Drama and Novels. — Their Introduction into the United States deprecated Page 107

Chapter X. Religion In France

Three Religious Bodies recognised by Government. — Comparative Number of Protestant and Catholic Clergy. — Decrease of the latter since 1789. — Increase of Religious Feeling in France. — Churches better attended. — New Churches. — Romanism favoured by Louis Philippe. — Policy of M. Guizot. — Possibility of Reformation in the Catholic Church. — Protestantism in France. — Religious Press. — Foreign Evangelical Society. — Rev. Robert Baird. — Wesleyan Methodism. — Indifference of modem French Infidelity. — Time to strike. — France a field for American Methodist Missions . 122

Chapter XI. Government Of Louis Philippe

Position of Louis Philippe. — Historical Sketch. — Lafayette and Louis Philippe. — Declarations of the Citizen King. — Grounds of the Confidence reposed in him by the Liberal Party. — His early Foreign Policy. — Alteration of his Policy. — Disgust of Lafayette. — Louis Philippe False to the Men that placed him on the Throne. —Why the Throne was established in 1830.— Policy of Louis Philippe.— The Army.— Tbe Police. — The Fortifications of Paris. — What France has gained by her Revolutions. — Recuperative Power of France. — Comparative Liberty of France and England. — A strong Government. — Legislature. — Budget. — Personal Character of the King 141

Chapter XII. Departure From Paris

Departure from Paris. — Courier. — Diligence. — Beggar-boy. — Chatillon-sur-Seine. — Sunday at Dijon. — Cathedral. — Worship. — Appearance of the People. — Chalons. — Steamer. — Rush for Breakfast. — The Saone.— Lyons 167

Chapter XIII. Lyons

Lyons. — Appearance ofthe City. — Streets. — Trade and Manufactures. — Ancient Lugdunum,— Sight of Mont Blanc— Boman Remain*.— Relic X CONTENTS. Shopt. — Notre Dame de Fourvi^res. — Subterranean Chapels of St. Ire najus.—Public Buildings.— Hotel Page 175

Chapter XIV. Agriculture In France

Agriculture in France.— No large Fields.— Cultivation of Trees.— Implements of Husbandry.— Plough.— Burden Wagons.— Draught-horses.— Race in a Diligence. — Women Labourers.— Indian Corn. — Valley of Dijon.— Shepherds and Dogs.— Vineyards.— Ordinary Use of Wine. — Relation to the Temperance of the People 181

Chapter XV. Departure From Lyons

Departure from Lyons. — Market-women. — Breakfast. — Peasant women. — The Lovers. — Pont de Beauvoisin. — Frontier of Savoy. — First Dinner in Piedmont. — Mountain Road. — Tunnel. — Chambery. — Dun-coloured Cattle.— Rumilly. — Crucifix. — Arrival at Geneva . . . .187

Chapter XVI. Geneva

Geneva. — Sunday. — Market. — Church Service.— Amusements. — Appearance of the City.— Environs. — Manufacture of Watches. — Reformation in Geneva. — Calvin. — General Defection. — Second Reformation. — Evangelical Society. — Montauban. — Colporteurs. — Voltaire. — Rousseau. — Observations. — French Revolution. — Visit to Femey, Chateau of Voltaire . 192

Chapter XVII. Chamouni

Departure for Chamouni. — The Arve. — The Alps. — Chars k bane. — Houses of Swiss Peasants. — Valley of Chamouni. — History.— Funeral Procession. —Excursion to the Mer de Glace. — Mules. — A rough Road. — View from the Caille. — Chateau de Blair.— Ascent continued on Foot. — Doubtful Footing.— Field of Ice-blocks. — The Mer de Glace. — Dangers of the Glaciers. — The Garden. — Return. — Formation of the Glaciers. — Movement of Glaciers 202

Chapter XVIII Martigny

Martigny. — Goitre. — Liddes.— Quarrel with Guides. — Mules. — St. Pierre. — Ascent of St. Bernard. — The Hospice. — Napoleon's Passage of St. Bernard.— History ofthe Hospice.— Monks.— Noble Charity.— St. Bernard CONTENTS. XI Dogs. — The Morgue. — Chapel Service. — Catholic Piety. — Chapel of the Convent.— Return.— The Harvest. — Martigny. — Tricks upon Travellers. — Lake Leman.— Geneva ... Page 214

Chapter XIX. Geneva

Departure from Geneva. — Environs. — Coppet. — Madame De Stael.— Nyon, Birthplace of John Fletcher. — Lausanne. — Gibbon. — Excellence of Roads. — Cattle. — Payerne. — Queen Bertha's Saddle. — Freyburg. — Cathedral. — Organ. — German-Swiss. — Costumes. — Difference between Catholic and Protestant Cantons. — Berne. — Sunday. — Worship at the Minster. — Appearance of the Town. — Bears of Berne. — View from the Minster Tower 223

Chapter XX. Langnau

Langnau. — Houses. — Swiss Peasant Girl. — The Emmenthal. — Forest Cantons. — Lucerne. — Arsenal. — Arnold de Winkelried. — Battle of Sempach. — Battle of Cappel. — Zwingle. — English Travellers. — Bridges of Lucerne. — Monument of Swiss Guards. — Lake of Lucerne. — Griitli. — Tell's Chapel. —.Pass of Kiissnacht. — Tell and Gessler. — Valley of Goldau. — Fall of the Rossberg. — Zug. — Field of Cappel. — Zwingle.— Zurich . . .235

Chapter XXI. Zurich

Zurich. — The Reformation. — Zwingle's Pulpit. — His Banner. — Autograph of Lady Jane Grey. — Lavatei^s Death. — Briick. — Castle of Hapsburg. — Abbey of Kœnigsfeld.— The Rhine.— Field of St. Jacob.— Bale Cathedral.— Tomb of Erasmus. — His Character. — Institutions of Bale. — Holbein's Paintings. — Company at Table d'Hote ■ 244

Chapter XXII. Departure From Bale

Departure from Bale.— Steamer.— Strasburg.— Examination of Luggage.— Dinner. — Mayence. — Sunday. — Military Parades. — Cathedral Service. — Invention of Printing. — Statue of Gutenberg. — Frankfort. — Appearance of the People.— The Rheingau. — Rhenish Wines.— The Castellated Rhine. — Coblentz.— Cologne.— Cathedral. — Three Kings of Cologne. — Rubens's Crucifixion of Peter— Church of St. Ursula.— Bones ofthe Virgins . CONTENTS. XII

Chapter XXIII. Holland

Holland.— Dikes.— Land at Gorcum.— Parting with Friends.— A new Friend. —Road to Utrecht.— Willows. — Country.— Canals.— Utrecht. — Fair.— Eden in Holland. — Amsterdam.— Dutch Dishes. — Streets. — People.— Shops. — Warehouses. — Ornaments. — State House, now the Palace. — Statuary.— The Bankrupts' Hall.— No Death in the Ball-room.— A true Republican Page 261

Chapter XXIV. From Haarlem To Brussels

Haarlem. — The Organ. — Leyden. — Siege by the Spaniards. — The University. — High Charges. — Rotterdam. — Dordrecht. — Synod of Dort. — Antwerp. — Decline of her Commerce. — Causes of Decline. — Spanish Wars. — Revolution of 1830. — Flemish School of Painting. — Rubens's Descent from the Cross. — Vandyk's Crucifixion. — Statue of the Virgin. — Calvary and Purgatory.— Railway to Brussels.— William Tindal. — Brussels . . 270

Chapter XXV. Waterloo

Waterloo. — Brief Account of the Campaign before the Battle of the 18th of June. — Number and Positions of the Forces on both Sides. — Defeat of the Prussians at Ligny. — Battle of Quatre-Bras. — Description of the Field of Waterloo. — Numbers engaged in the Action. — Account of the Battle. — Almost lost by the English. — Retrieved by the Arrival of the Prussians. — Systematic Falsehoods of British Tory Writers. — Reflections on the Results of the Battle of Waterloo and Downfall of Napoleon. — Alison's History of Europe. — Rise of Free Opinions in Europe. — The Reformation. — It induced Discussion of Political Abuses. — American Revolution. — French Revolution. — Causes of its Failure. — Napoleon. — His Overthrow. — Congress of Vienna. — Promises to the German Nations. — How kept. — Return of Napoleon. — Establishes a Constitutional Government in France. — Rising of Europe.— Battle of Waterloo.— False Issue.— Results of the Battle.— To Great Britain— France— Russia— Germany— Protestantism . 280 K7 We regret to say, by an accident not within our control, that the en graving of the "Mer de Glace" cannot appear in the work without postpo ning its publication, though it is referred to in the text. OBSERVATIONS IN EUROPE.

Chapter I. New-york To Paris

Departure. — Sea-sickness. — Glimpse of England. — Approach to Havre. -— Passports. — Dinner in eight Days. — Physique of the French. — Female Menof-business. — Feats of Strength. — Police. — The Seine. — Honfleur. — Arthur and Louise. — Lillebonne.— Caudebec. — Rouen. — French Hotels.— Boulevards. — Appearance of the City. — Cathedral. — Worship. — Stained-glass Windows. — Their Uses. — Heart of Cœur de Lion. — Memory of Napoleon. — Palace of Justice. — Lawyers' Hall. — English Abroad. — French River Steamers. — Elbeuf. — Hill of the two Lovers. — Washerwomen. — Duchess of Guercheville. — La Pecq. — Paris. At two o'clock on the afternoon of April 27, 1842, we cast off the cables of our steam-tug in the Narrows, and spread all our canvass to a -*isT breeze. In a few hours our noble ship, the Ville de I was plunging her bows into the waves, looking di .vards Beau tiful France.

The city of New-1 i vanished in the distance ; the Highlands of Never&.uit disappeared with the setting sun ; and at this last glimpse of my country I awoke to the assurance that I was about to accomplish my ardent and long-cherished desire of vis iting the Old World, whose history had inspired my young heart with a restless longing to behold the scenes of so many great achievements. We sat down to our first dinner at sea full of life and gayety. I need not tell the reader what a change came Vol. I,— B AT SEA. over the spirit of our company when our gallant vessel began to mount the waves, and descend from their crests into depths from which the inexperienced pas senger felt an involuntary apprehension she could nev er rise again. Laughing eyes became mournful enough, and jolly faces were lengthened into dolorous vis ages, as one by one my companions sought the sides of the ship, and looked wistfully into the sea.

Inexorable Neptune demanded his accustomed tribute. One of my young friends obeyed at one gangway, while Professor L answered at the other. My time came late ; but, alas ! when once arrived, it never departed. I shall never make a sailor. There was a little coterie of French men and women aboard, whose mercurial temperament was proof against sea-sickness, and expended itself in laughing, dancing, and every form of merry making. I envied them most heartily. Trifling incidents are important to the passengers in a ship, amid the irksomeness and monotony of life at sea ; but such as happened to us can afford little amuse ment and no information to my reader. Besides, I trust he is bound, with us, for Europe, and I doubt not he is anxious to catch the first glimpse of the Old World. Well, then, while we were at tea on the evening of the 14th of May, the mate came into the cabin, and report ed to the captain, " A light, sir." "Where away?"

" Off the leeward bow, sir." " Very well." Quickly we were all on the upper deck, straining our eyes to see the light which the sailors could easily dis cern. The darkness increased, and in a few minutes we could distinctly see the double-headed Lizard lights on the coast of England. They sent a thrill of pleas- 6LIMP8E OF ENGLAND. 15 ure through our hearts which we could not repress. My young friend S waxed eloquent. " There," said he, " sleeps quietly in his sea-girt island, the Lion of England, that has guarded so long his ocean-home from the foot of the invader ; and under whose protec tion the arts of Peace and the institutions of Religion have so long and so wonderfully flourished." Next to his own country, it seems to me, an American must look upon the home of his forefathers with the most in tense delight.

Such was our feeling, though we had only seen the gleam of a lantern from the barren coast of the Land's End. We were becalmed five days in the English Chan nel. It was not until about ten o'clock on the morning of May 19 that we first really saw Europe, as the city of Havre appeared in the distance, when the fog rolled away from the surface of the beautiful bay at the mouth of the Seine. We were about five miles distant from the city. On our right, and somewhat astern of us, was a fleet of some thirty vessels slowly drifting out to sea with the tide, while as many more were lying at anchor ahead, within half a mile of the wall-locked harbour. They were waiting for the flood to carry them within the gates of the noble canal, which leads up into a magnificent basin in the very heart of the city.

At four o'clock the steamer Hercule ran down to us, and in for ty minutes we passed between the massive granite piers running far <ut into the bay, which form a wide and deep p^iial, through which we entered the inner basin. Crowds of porters, hotel-agents, &c, rushed on board, and for a while all was confusion. We went ashore, as soon as possible, in a small boat, and had hardly clam bered up the iron ladder to the stone pier, when an officer in uniform demanded our passports. Having HAVRE delivered them, we walked into the custom-house, passed through a cursory and civil inspection, and left our luggage to be opened and examined in our presence the next morning. We then hastened to the Hotel de l'Europe and engaged our rooms. My first conversation here, with the female director of the hotel, was rather amusing.

Informing her that we desired dinner, she inquired, " a quelle heure voulez vous diner, monsieur ?" I replied, " a huit heure, ma dame," pronouncing the word heure so openly as to be mistaken for jour; and she asked again, " a quelle heure, monsieur?" looking intently into my face, as if she would read my meaning. Not noticing the peculiarly close sound which she gave to the word heure, I replied as before. Utterly surprised, she gazed at me as if she were absolutely feeling for my meaning ; until at last it flashed upon her, when sbe burst into a hearty, pleasant laugh, not at my mistake, but at the ludicrous idea of dining on the eighth day, and then repeated several times, " ii huit heure, monsieur, huit heure, huit heure" uttering the word so as to draw my attention to it and correct my mistake.

I felt that I was instructed — not ridiculed. By-the-way, I may remark that the French rarely laugh at errors of pronunciation, which are generally irresistible to Englishmen. They either do not notice them at all, or correct them with a kind polite ness. As to the French language itself, I am satisfied that no man who learns it after twenty can pronounce with Parisian accent, whatever else he may do. In a few minutes we sallied forth to see the town. First impressions are not to be trusted, I am aware ; but as the appearance of the population struck me most favourably in many respects, I shall do no harm, in this instance, by recording them. Coming immediately HAVRE. from New-York, I could not but remark the contrast, in point of physical health and vigour, between the crowds you meet in the streets in that city and the swarms that we now encountered in the streets of Havre.

Their elastic movements, fine, fresh complex ions, and well-developed persons, betokened high health and great enjoyment of life. Doubtless this superiority of physique is to be attributed to their cheerful way ot living, in which business is not the sole object, as with us, and to their constant exercise in the open air — men, women, and children. In this, our first walk, the bulk of the population seemed to be in the streets, enjoying their cheerful promenade not only on the sidewalks, but in the middle of the most crowded thoroughfares. Ev erywhere we saw boys and girls, from five to fifteen years of age, running, romping, jumping the rope, or trundling the hoop. The women were generally with out bonnets,* to which habit, keeping the head cool and well aired, their abundant and beautiful hair may per haps be attributed.

We were struck also with the richness and variety of the articles exhibited in the numerous shops. The shops themselves are much smaller than is common with us. In every case except one (a watchmaker's), they were attended by females ; and, indeed, almost all the minor kinds of business seemed to be in the hands of the 'beau sexe. I stepped into a barber's shop ; a man shaved me, but a woman, sitting at a little counter in the hall, received the ten sous ; and when my friend called at the watchmaker's for his watch, which he had left for repairs, a female took the money. So, on en tering the reception-room of our hotel, we were receiv- * This remark is applicable only to the middle and active classes. B2 BUSINESS HABITS OF FEMALES. 18 ed by two very well-dressed females, of easy manners, one of them quite pretty and interesting.

They seemed to have the chief direction of affairs throughout the house, except in the salle d manger, where male servants were in attendance. It is worth while to remark that these female traders, hotel directors, etc., are gen erally women of mature years, and not inexperienced girls, as is commonly the case with females in similar employments among us. I pass over the matter of custom-house business and passports, with a few remarks to the reader who may design to travel. Your luggage is taken from the ship to the custom-house, where you appear at the time appointed for its inspection, and unlock your trunks. The officers then examine them, more or less particularly according to your appearance and conduct (as I judge), and then pass them over to a porter to be conveyed to your hotel. Your passport is delivered, on landing, to an officer, who takes it to the police-office, where you obtain a new one, to Paris, for which you pay two francs.

You take this new passport, in which your person is minutely described, to the proper office on your arrival in Paris, where it is retained, and the original one with which you entered Havre restored to you, vised, as it is called, by the authorities of the capi tal. It is well to have it signed also by our minister at Paris. With this you can pass throughout the kingdom, exhibiting it when called for ; and you should al ways keep it about your person, as it must be vised at every frontier, and perhaps oftener. It is well known that the French labourers eat but little animal food, and yet they are remarkable for physical strength, of which I had a striking instance this afternoon. I saw one of these men carry an ordinary HAVRB 19 bale of cotton, resting on the back of his head and on his shoulders, several yards to a wagon, ascend a lad der, and throw it on the top of two tiers of bales which he had already carried up.

I supposed it to weigh four hundred pounds ; a by-stander said five hundred. After dining at the table d'h6te at six o'clock, we walked down upon the quay, along the magnificent stone pier which projects far out into the bay. It was a mild, pleasant evening, and everybody was in the street. Police-men might be seen, everywhere min gling with the crowds, in long, gray frockcoats, red pan taloons, and leather caps, distinguished by a yellow tas sel. Before the entrances to public buildings, and at the barriers of the city, they are armed with sword and musket. In this way perfect peace is preserved. But what a contrast between the tranquillity thus obtained vi et armis, and the quiet of one of our own smaller towns, secured only by the moderation of our citizens and their respect for the laws !

Havre contains about thirty-five thousand inhabitants, and is increasing rapidly in wealth and population. It is the Liverpool of France. Most ofthe trade between France and the United States is carried on here. Cap tain Stoddard observed to me that he had counted twenty-seven American ships in the harbour at one time. To a stranger, arriving for the first time from the New World, its air of solidity and antiquity, and the dense ness of the population, contrast strongly with the Amer ican towns of yesterday. The principal part of the city is within the fortifications, which are composed of a double wall, with a deep fosse between ; but by far the most beautiful part is on the steep declivity of a ridge which overlooks the town, and is adorned with neat mansions, embowered inshrubbery, and surround- THE SEINE. ed with gardens, which rise in terraces one above the other.

It is called the Cote d'Ingouville. My passport gave as my profession Rentier, which, done into English, may mean " a man who lives on his money." When my hotel-bill was presented to me on the night ofthe 21st of May, I was inclined to interpret it " one on whose money others live." However, as we had been well kept, we paid our score cheerfully. Hav ing made the preparations requisite for our departure next morning, we slept three or four hours, and at five o'clock A.M. of the 22d were gliding out of the harbour in a steamer, on our way up the Seine to Rouen. Historical associations crowd upon one in this voyage to the ancient capital of Normandy. Every height has its legends and stories. The Romans left here the tra ces of their powerful dominion. It became the prey of the piratical hosts of Scandinavia, who ravaged the coasts of England, Holland, and France in the ninth century.

In the indolent reign of Charles the Bald, they penetrated into the very heart of the country. At length, in A.D. 912, the Norwegian Rollo ascended the Seine, and obtained from Charles the Simple a ces sion of part of Neustria, which he called Normandy. Rollo married a daughter of Charles, received Christian baptism in the Cathedral of Rouen, and became the first Duke of Normandy. It was annexed to England when William Duke of Normandy obtained the English throne in 1066. This fair region was long the battle-ground of France and England. No wonder, then, that we were eager to behold every storied spot on the beauti ful Seine. We glided directly across the river to Honfleur, an ancient town, formerly of great importance as a sea port. Its old and now ruined walls withstood the sieges fiONFLEUR. of the English in the fifteenth century ; and large fleets formerly issued from its port, now choked and deserted.