My Trip to France

Front matter

MY TRIP TO FRANCE. BT REV. JOHN P. DONELAN. NEW YORK : EDWARD DUNIGAN & BROTHER, [JAMES B. KIRKER.1 811 BEOADWAT. 1857. ■n^^ \.-\*< *-• f*y\^t^ Entered, according to Act of Co ffTriT^wrTnthe year 1357, by JAMES B. KIEKEK, In tho Clerk's Office of tbe District Court of tbe United States for tho Southern District of New York. TO THE VERY REV. LOUIS R. DELUOL, D. D., OF THE SEMINART OF ST. SULPICE, PARIS, FRANCE; For upwards of a quarter of a century the honored Superior of St. Mary's Seminary, Baltimore, The Poor Man's Friend, — The Widow's Protector, — The Orphan's Father, — these pages are affectionately dedicated. May the simple offering serve to assure him in his far-off home, that his un wearied care for his old children is still gratefully remembered — and by none more fondly than by the Author, JOHN P. D0NELAN.

Preface

. In presenting the following pages to the Public, it can hardly be necessary to enter on a formal ex pose of the motives which induced me to write them. In fact it would be difficult for me to do so — more perplexing even than the labor of writing the work. Let me simply say, it has been a labor of love — a work prompted mainly by the smiles of those whose happiness is dearer to me than any human considera tion, and whose approval would more than counter balance any opposition. My readers will find a simple, straightforward relation of facts, events and scenes, as they occurred to me while penning them, with note books, refer ences, hieroglyphics, scraps of paper, pencilled mar gins and rough sketches before me — the unartistic VI

PREFACE.

. remnants of wanderings, by day and by night, among exciting scenes, classic halls, and ups and downs of " My Trip to France." I have not aimed at what I would wish to see accomplished ; a refutation of the un generous attacks on the Catholic Churches, Convents and Society of France. I had the will, but I feared that either capacity was wanting — or that these pages were not the appropriate place. The best refutation is, perhaps, a plain, simple statement of facts as, at least, I met them, and as my judgment approved them. I have written as I felt — and as the ideas came to mind. For many interesting facts related in the following pages, I am indebted, after my own observation, in many cases to the recital of those once active par ticipators in them, and who like Æneas of old, may exclaim, " Quorum magna pars fui " — to a venerable and worthy clergyman, now associated with me — to "Segur's Expedition to Eussia" — to Thiers, Alison, Koorbacher, Feller, Lamartine, and to such other au thors as were within my reach, both in Europe and in my own western home.

I cannot conceal the indig nation felt on many occasions, as, looking for some fact in Silliman, Grace Greenwood's Haps and Mis haps, Prime, and some less important productions, I have thrown aside in disgust and sorrow, their char acterestic slanders of all I hold dear in religion. I can safely say that thus far, the only truly honest work

PREFACE.

. VII I have met on European travels, as far as Catholicity is concerned, is the interesting Tolume from the pen of Haskins, of Boston, an honest, unpretending, and solid production. It is time for such poisons to have their antidotes, and whatever may be the fate of this frail bark, thus launched on the waters of public opinion, the writer will have the approval of some whose opinions are dear to him — because " They're reflected from looks that he loves." With this brief notice, the writer introduces his work to the public. In his voyagings in Italy he hopes to.present to the young people of this country an interesting statement of scenes, and people, in " The Seven Hilled City " of Eome. J. P. D. Eock Island, 111., Easter Sunday, 1857. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Preparations for sea — Leave-taking — Firing of signal guns — Under way — Author's reflections and emotions on finding himself at sea — Anchored off Sandy Hook 1

Chapter II

First Sunday at sea — Hasty toilet — Pilot leaving steamer — " Last link broken" — Thoughts of home and friends — A deck scene — Laughable incidents — Paying toll to Neptune — The lively Frenchman— Clamors for his breakfast — Unceremonious and early call — Our cabin passengers — Returned Californians — Morose Frenchman — First sensations of sea-sickness — The gong, 5

Chapter III

Monotony of first days at sea — Disappointed in dinner— Shaving at sea- Early morning on the ocean— Passengers venture on deck— Our little Frenchman— His want of " ze aptite ! "—Manages without it— The " live Yankee"— Sudden rain storm 13

Chapter IV

Sunrise at sea^-OUa podrida conversation— Our Yankee beats a retreat- Consternation and fright at the sudden stopping of machinery— Laugh- X CONTENTS. able incidents — Cause of the stopping — Frenchman mixing soda water — Ship in sight — Reflections — Sunset at sea — Home sickness— Midnight at sea — Engine again stopped — Another sail in sight — Mrs. G. and the Know-Nothings, 18

Chapter V

Dinner table scene at sea — Good appetite not easily satisfied at sea — Another Sunday on the ocean — Thoughts and recollections of home — Deacon Snowball's description of the weather — Visit to the " fire room " in hold — Deadening effects of sea-sickness — A storm at sea — Sail in sight — Old sailor's fish story — Land bird and land breeze — Writing home via Southampton — " The event of the voyage" — Land ho! — Revolving light — The Needles — Isle of Wight — Sigual guns for pilot — Queer specimen of humanity — Steaming up to Cowes 25

Chapter VI

Cowes — Steamer for Southampton — Change of luggage and parting of passengers — En route for Havre — The EDglish Channel — Cape La Hcve— Fleet of boatmen — Disembarking of passengers — Mr. Christie and his "Swan" — Reaching Havre — Sensations on landing — Custom-house — Comfortable quarters — Bishop of Montreal — First impressions of Havre — Visit to the Cure of " Notre Dame " — Luxury of a good bed, . 36

Chapter VII

Church and Mass at Notre Dame — Reflections of author — Scene at custom-house — Tricks on travellers — Brief history of Rouen — Funeral procession and grave-yard — How some form rash judgments — Dinner on board Ariel in Havre — School practice for French drummers — Difference between Havre workmen and ours — The French naturally soldiers — Manners, customs and street scenes in Havre — Abbe Herval and the library — Night prayers and benediction at Notre Dame — Edifying youth at prayer — Morning prayer, mass, benediction, &c, at Notre Dame — Interior of church — Interesting trait of filial affection — French railroad depots — Farewell to Havre, CONTENTS. XI

Chapter VIII

Travelling companions to Rouen — Scenery and railroad — Reach Rouen — Brief historical notice of the city — Visit the statue of " Joan of Arc " — ■ Reflections — Hotel de Bourgtherolde — Palais de Justice — Salle des Procureurs — Polite concierge or guardian, 57

Chapter IX

A market-house scene — Square before the Cathedral — Cathedral of Rouen ■ — Butter tower — Interior of Cathedral — Richard Cœur de Lion — Rollo, Duke of Normandy — William of the Long Sword — Unknown tomb — Reflections on leaving the Cathedral — Archbishop's palace — How to wind up a watch without breaking it — Tour de la grosse Horloge — Legend of the bell — Ringing the curfew — View of city from the tower — ■ Church of St. Goddard — St. Patrick's Church — A gentle hint to the Cure, 69

Chapter X

Church of St. Romanus — Procession and legend of " La Fierte " — Trait in life of Patron Saint — L'Hotel Dieu — Church of La Madeleine — Trait of Father Deluol — Walk along the "Quay du Havre" — Douane or custom-house — La Bourse or Exchange — House of Louis Brune — Suspension bridge — Place and garrison St. Sever — Church of Emm — Loss and gain — Brothers of Christian schools — St. You Asylum and Church — Garrison of Bonnes Nouvelles — Statue of the Poet Corneille — Anecdote of hot soup — Novel method of sawing wood 85

CHAPTER XL

Church of St. Ouen — Important official — Trait of jealousy — Reflections on St. Ouen's Church — Hotel de Ville — Museum — Library — Trait of Copernican system — The photographer — The halls and warehouses — Protestant church St. Eloi — Church of St. Vincent — Anecdote of the Duke of Argyle — Church of St. Vivian — Church of St. Nicaise — Association of ideas — Norman style of coaches — Hack drivers verSis friendship — Church of St. Gervaise — Reflections on church of St. Gervaise — Sub- CONTENTS terranean chapel of St. Gervaise— Death of William the Conqueror —The old Monk— Anecdote of prosy preacher— Preparations for a journey, 97

Chapter XII

Leaving Rouen — En route for Paris — Travelling companions — Ludicrous scene — Bird's-eye view of country — Tunnels — Poissy— Castles — Smoking in the cars— Arrival in Paris — Police Regulations — Examining luggage — Hotel J. J. Rousseau — Interview with Father Deluol — The old " Family — Roof" — Church of St. Eustache — Cathedral of Notre Dame — High Mass at Notre Dame — Interior of Notre Dame, .... 115

CHAPTER XIIL

Sunday in Paris — Square and Church of St. Sulpice — Vespers in St. Sulpice — A morning view from Pont Royal — Palais de Luxembourg — Gardens of the Palais de Luxembourg — Statue of Marshal Ney — Imperial observatory^— Church Qf Val de Grace — Pantheon or Church of St. Genevieve — Ascent to the dome — View from the dome — Visit to vaults — Tombs of Mirabeau — Of Voltaire — Of Rousseau — Reflections at their tombs — Interior and paintings of Pantheon — Anecdote of Voltaire and Rousseau — Church of St. Etienne du Mont, . . . 134

Chapter XIV

University of Sorbonne — Tomb of Cardinal Richelieu — Hotel de Cluny and Palais des Thermes — Chamber of the White Queen — Life a Voyage— Chapelle Expiatoire — Tombs of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette- Meditations among Tombs — Trial, Condemnation and Execution of Louis XVI. — Trial, Condemnation and Execution of Marie Antoinette Church of La Madeleine — Danger of using Eye-glass — Place de la Concorde — Guillotine in Paris — Charlotte Corday assassinates Marat Her Trial and Execution — Trial and Execution of Philip Egalite, Duke of Orleans — Execution of Girondists — Execution of Madame Roland Execution of Danton and Des Moulins — Horrors of French Revolution 153 V CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XV

Horrors of the Revolution continued — General Desolation — Robespierre — Population diminished by thousands — Death of Robespierre — Napoleon III.— Champs Elysees — Pet Dogs — Palais de l'lndustrie — Closing Scene — Choir of Five Hundred Voices — " Vive l'Empereur," . 174

Chapter XVI

Hotel des Invalides — Drummer Boy — Court of the Hotel— Old Soldiers, wounded and infirm — Old Soldier's account of Moscow — Burning of Flags — Interior of Hotel — Dormitories — Kitchen — Scene in Ward of St. Louis — Old Soldiers at Dinner — Anecdote of Soldier with wooden head — France always Catholic — Anecdote of old Soldier who wouldn't go to Confession — Encouragement in France to become soldiers, 187

Chapter XVII

Exterior of Church and Dome des Invalides — Interior of Church and Dome des Invalides — Lovely effect of Church and Dome des Invalides — Chapel of St. Jerome, the temporary tomb of Napoleon I. — Description of Coffin, &c. — Permanently deposited — Napoleon on St. Helena — Unjust treatments — Last illness and death of Napoleon — Removal of remains to France by Louis Philippe — Incidents of the removal — Reception by the King at the Invalides — Guard of old Soldiers around tomb — Old Officer's account of the battle of Borodino, and the crossing of the Beresina — Abbe Benoit — Narrow Escape of Vaudeville, .... 209

Chapter XVIII

Cross of Gold in Moscow — Old Soldier relates Scenes in Moscow— Tomb of Turenne— Chapel of St. Gregory— Tombs of Bertrand and Duroc — Chapel of St. Andrew— Tomb of Vauban— Crypt, or Tomb of Napoleon- Victims of Fieschi's Infernal Machine— Reflections at the Tomb of Napoleon—Meteor Career of the Emperor— His Character— Reflections on his Government — Napoleon's Dream CONTENTS.

Chapter XIX

Garden of the Tuileries— Trait of Father Mathcws — Palaco of Tuileries— Palace of Louvre — Place de Louvre — Place de la Carrousel— Triumphant Arch in Place de la Carrousel — Two Emperors at Tilsit — Napoleon Refuses to assume Headship of the Church — Wings of Louvre — Galleries of Louvre— Ground Floor of Louvre— Hall of Apollo — Salon Carre — Paintings and Students in Salon Carre — Artistic Wealth of Louvre — Trait of Angelo — Reflections on leaving Louvre — Sound Philosophy 251

Chapter XX

Church of St. Germain L'Auxerrois — Tradition of Bell — Massacre of St. Bartholomew — Cruelties on both sides — Characters of Principal Actors — Political not Religious Move — Palais Royal — Garden and Walks of Palais Royal — Fontaine and Statue of Moliere — Island of the Seine — Statue of Henry IV. — Visit to La Morgue— Affecting Scene, 268

Chapter XXI

L'Hotel Dieu— Hotel de Ville— The Infidel Paine— La Fayette— La Martine — Church of St. Gervais — The Regicide Ravillac — Anecdote of Henry IV. — Church of St. Merry — Palais de Justice — Sainte Chapelle— Prison of Conciergerie — Madame Elizabeth — Robespierre — Les Girondins — Bastile — Colonne de Juillet — Death of Arbp. of Paris — Prison of St. Pelagie, 1848 — Madame du Barri — Colonel Swan — Abbey Prison — Mademoiselle de Dombreuil — Mademoiselle Elizabeth Cazotte — Archbishop of Aries— Princess Lamballe — Her Trial and Execution — Prison of Le Temple — Massacres in prisons of Paris between £d and 6th September, 1792, 286

Chapter XXII

Place Vendome — Church of St. Roch— St. Jaque ae la Boucherie — Place desVictoires — Church of St. Vincent de Paul — Sisters of Charity— N. D. de Lorctte — Abbey and Tombs of St. Denis — Cemetery of Pere la Chaise — Seminary and La Solitude at Issy — Farewell to Paris, . CONTENTS. XV