The Present State of Australia; a description of the country, its advantages and prospects, with reference to emigration: and a particular account of the manners, customs and condition of its aboriginal inhabitants

Front matter

THK PRESENT STATE OF AUSTRALIA; A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY, ITS ADVANTAGES AND PROSPECTS, WITH REFERENCE TO EMIGRATION: AMI A •PARTICULAR ACCOUN" OK THE MANNBRS, CUSTOMS, AND CONDITION OZ ITS ABORIGINE, INHABITANTS. BY ROBERT DAWSON, ESQ. LATE CHIEF AGENT OF THE AUSTRALIAN AGRICUI.TtlRAI. COMPANY. LONDON : SMITH, ELDER AND CO., CORNIIILL. MDCCCXXX. JOSEPH RICKERBY, SHERBOl'RX LAKE. TO THE RIGHT HON. WILLIAM KEPPEL VISCOUNT BARRINGTON. My Lord, The circumstances which have given rise to the following pages being familiar to your Lordship, and the kind interest which you have been pleased to take in the fate of their Author, amidst bis recent and no common trials and anxieties, would alone have formed a sufficient induce ment for requesting permission to dedicate to your Lordship these my humble labours ; but when to these motives, which are purely personal, is superadded my long and intimate knowledge of your Lordship's benevolent and extended views, I feel that I can associate with this work no name which would confer on me so much honour as a patron, or convey so many grateful recollections to the mind of Your Lordship's Very faithful and obliged Servant, ROBERT DAWSON. CONTENTS. Introduction Page xi

Chapter I

The Author's Appointment — Departure from England — Arrival at Sydney — Landing of the Party — Retreat Farm — Newcastle — Port Stephens — Excursion — Natives — Erection of Bark Huts — Friendly Disposition of Natives — Their efficient Assistance — Return to Sydney — Departure from Retreat Farm — Arrival of the Party at Port Stephens — Arrangements — Passage of Cattle across the Harbour — Disgraceful Conduct of a Ship- Captain — Arrival overland of Sheep and Cattle — School established — ReligiousWorship performed — Loss of Schooners — Timber-cutting Parties — Runaway Convicts — Murder of a Native Boy — Trial and Conviction of the Murderers . Page 1

Chapter II. Private Journal

Satisfaction on Landing — Sydney and its Society — General Aspect of the Country — Manner of Travelling — Abundance of Game — Delightful Climate — Beauties of Scenery — Extremes of Society — Advice to Settlers — Reptiles — The Wild Dog — ■ Intercourse with Natives — Corrobery — Australians an inoffenb VI CONTENTS. sive People — Punishment inflicted by Natives — Their Manner of Fighting— Degraded State of their Females— Their Agility —Their Fidelity— Native Hospitality— Difficulties and Acci dents—Native Mourning— Black Constables— Passage up the River Myall — Meeting with Natives — Expert Boatmen— A wounded Man — Return hoMe overland — Disappearance of the Sumpter Black— Embarrassing Situation— Scanty Fare— Joy at discovering the Hills at Port Stephens— Unpleasant Intelli gence — Effect on Natives — Their Absence^Native Customs — Examination of Constable— Return of Natives— A Mother's Grief— Recovery of stolen Articles Page 45

Chapter III

Return to Port Stephens overland — Satisfactory Progress of the Settlement — Preparations for a Journey— Accompanied by the Natives — Their Good-humour — Their Pear of meeting with strange Tribes — Pleasures of the Journey — Description of some of the Natives— Fall in with a strange Tribe — Friendly Meeting — Kangaroos — Manner of hunting them 96

Chapter IV

Continuation of Journey — Liability of Europeans to lose their Way in the Bush — Anecdotes in illustration — Best Means to be adopted on such Occasions — Practical Proof of their Efficacy — Extreme Sagacity of the Natives in this respect — Observations on the Natives — Kangaroo Feast — Further Observations on the Natives — Author's Views concerning them misrepresented — Superstition of Natives — Method taken to divest them of it — Obstructions caused by the Inaccessibility of the Country — Cross the River — Description of Country — Author loses himself — A Native Encampment — Gunyers — Native Dogs — Dislike of the Natives to proceed further — Description of Country — Another Native Encampment ... . CONTENTS. VII

Chapter V

Continuation of Journey — Description of Country — Numerous Flocks of Kangaroos — Fishing — Beautiful Scenery — Effects of Gluttony on Natives- — Description of the Country — Faithful Convict Servant — Tomahawks — Power of the Natives to sustain Hunger — Discovery of another River — Determination to return Home — Joy of Natives on the Occasion — A Vein of good Coal discovered — Successful Fishing — Ample Repast — Trace the Course of the River — Return towards Home — Conduct pursued with Natives — The Effects of Disappointment on one of them — Thunder-storm — Arrival at Port Stephens — Gratifying Reception Page 1S7

Chapter VI

The Natives receive their promised Reward — Their Delight — Anecdotes — Construction of Bridges — Preparations for an Execution — A Native spears a Shepherd— Postponement of the Execution — Search after the offending Native — The Shepherd's Hut — Wild Honey— Native Agility — Description of Country — Grass-trees — Native Encampment — Meeting between a Brother and Sister — Rain — The Hope of finding the Culprit given up — Anxious to return home as quickly as possible — Rain continues — Meeting with strange Natives — Fishing — Exertions of two Natives — Arrival at Port Stephens — Alarm of a Female Native and Child — Sequel to the History of the Men condemned to be executed 223

Chapter VIII

Activity of Natives in apprehending Runaway Convicts — Anecdotes of Natives and Emancipists — Theft by a Native — Means b2 CONTENTS. used to apprehend him — His deplorable Appearance — His Punishment — Ben the Fisherman — Flying Foxes — Sudden Encounter with a strange Tribe — Gigantic Lilies — Anecdotes — Fish — Parental Influence — Filial Attention — Curious Cus toms of Natives — Natives never arrive at very old Age — No Natural Deformity seen amongst them — Anecdote — Tribes — Favourable Opportunities for observing the Character and Habits of the Natives — Attempts at civilizing them — Complete success in one instance — Erroneous Reports concerning the Aborigines — Speculations on their Origin — Anecdotes in il lustration — Reasons in support of the Antiquity of this Race of People Page 299

Chapter IX

Observations on the Soil and Country — Causes of Fertility generally considered — Apparent Anomalies in Australia — Explained — Soils of different Districts described — General View of the Country — Mountain Barrier — Apsley Waterfall — Country about Bathurst — Wellington Valley — Macquarie River — Interior of Australia still unknown — Morton Bay- Brisbane River — Different Description of Timber at Morton Bay — Native Tribes at that Place — Anecdotes — Articles of Native Manufacture 344.

Chapter X

Capabilities and Local Advantages of the Districts East and West of the Mountain Barrier — The West colder than the East The Climate of the latter genial to the Production of most Plants — Its Advantages to Settlers — Why preferable to the Western District— Surprising Increase of Cattle — Cause of die Prosperity of the First Settlers— Difficulties to be encountered by those settling West of the Mountains— Penal Settlements —Morton Bay— Port Macquarie— Manning River— Grants of CONTENTS. IX Land — Company's Grant — Newcastle — Hunter's River — Goulburn River — Williams' River — Patterson's River — Wal lis's Plains or Morpeth — Located and improved Land always on sale — Advantages over a Grant of new Land — Liverpool Plains — Country about Williams' River — Patrick's Plains — Hawksbury River — Cow Pastures — Failure of the Harvest — Argyleshire — Climate of Australia always salubrious and de lightful — Clearing Land — Time of planting different Crops — Maize — Wheat — Caterpillars — Reclaimed Lands — Ravages of the Weevil — Important Points for Consideration — Clover — Doob-grass — Hay — Vegetables — Tobacco — Cotton — Fruits Page 364

. Observations on the Treatment of Flocks

Introduction

. As the disposition for emigration extends, the desire of acquiring correct ideas relative to those countries which are best adapted to receive an influx of population will of necessity increase, and any accurate information concerning them is therefore unquestionably matter of interest to the public. Amongst these countries Australia, or New South Wales, may be considered as one of the most important. There is perhaps no country in the world that has been so highly eulogized and so much misrepresented. Interested motives have prompted many to say more in its praise than it has deserved ; others, who have little or no practical knowledge of agriculture, or from want of in formation on those points which could alone enable them to convey just notions of the country and its means of production, have misrepresented its capabilities ; while a third party, possessing the requisite knowledge, and a desire honestly to impart it, have failed to secure attention

INTRODUCTION.

. amidst the extravagant and romantic ideas which have prevailed upon the subject. The recent precipitate emigration to Swan River by all classes of persons, many of whom are not in the least degree qualified to grapple with the difficulties they must inevitably experience, is a practical illustration of the delusive notions now existing upon the subject of New South Wales. The adventurers have gone out with such feelings, and under such extraordinary circumstances, as would almost justify the belief that their imaginations had pictured to them a land actually flowing with milk and honey, and yielding its fruits without labour. Having resided in Australia for three years as the chief agent of the Australian Agricultural Company, and having travelled over a very considerable portion of the located as well as the unlocated parts of the colony, I have had ample opportunity of acquiring such information as I hope will be found acceptable and useful to those who are desirous of knowing what the country really is.

I shall detail the result of my observations in my own plain and homely language, making no pretensions to a finished style of composition, which the active duties of my professional career during the last twenty-five years have afforded me but very slender opportunities of acquiring; and trusting that the candour of the public, before whom I am now induced to appear at the earnest (and perhaps mistaken) recommendation of some valued friends who have seen my Journals, will consider the

INTRODUCTION.

. XIII simplicity of truth, and the honest testimony of an unpre judiced mind, as some compensation for the absence of polished style and methodical arrangement. The following pages are not put forth to gratify the vanity of authorship, but with the view of communicating facts where much misrepresentation has existed, and to rescue, as far as I am able, the character of a race of beings (of whom I believe I have seen more than any other European has done) from the gross misrepresenta tions and unmerited obloquy that has been cast upon them. It is said that all men have their hobbies. I candidly avow mine, which the following narrative would probably sufficiently evidence against me even without my con fession — namely, the study of human nature in its wild and untutored state, and in its gradual approaches to civilization.

It has been the fate of some to encounter savage tribes, and to find amongst them only a barbarous ferocity ; it has been my happier lot to meet a generous confidence in my unenlightened brethren of the south, who, though born and nurtured in the darkest ignorance, and possessing little in common with civilized man, have yet shown that germ of good within which marks them as the children of one common parent. The condition, however, of these poor aborigines, and the ignorance which has hitherto prevailed upon the sub ject, have unhappily excited little or no interest concern ing them in the minds of persons intending to emigrate as agriculturists to New South Wales. Their first step is

INTRODUCTION.

. to procure an introduction to some individual who has been in the colony, and although he may have been a resident only in Sydney, and therefore wholly unac quainted with the agricultural capacities of the settle ment, and the habits of the aborigines in their native state, still the mere fact of his having been in New South Wales is deemed sufficient to stamp his information with an authority to be relied upon, while the corrupted and degraded remnant of the native tribe which prowls about the streets of Sydney, is shown up as the fag-end of humanity, and represented as a sample of the whole. Nothing is generally more fallacious, for (without im puting any wish to mislead) not one person in a hundred of those who return to this country know much, if any thing, of the real state of the case in either respect.

No one who has not been a practical settler, and well in formed upon the subject of soils and rural affairs generally, as well as of the nature of the country far beyond his own location, can possess that kind of knowledge which would be really valuable to persons intending to emigrate ; and how many there are actually residing in the colony who do not possess these requisites, and who know little of any thing twenty miles beyond the towns or farms where they reside, will be best understood by those who know most of the country. Captains of ships are often considered great authorities ; but as they have no practical know ledge of agriculture or of the soil, they generally report favourably or unfavourably, according to the nature of

INTRODUCTION.

. XV the season which prevails during their sojourn in the country, or according to the impressions which they re ceive from a particular district or farm which they may have happened to visit, and not unfrequently from the interested representations of an old settler or two, who have an object in sending them home well charged. Many letters, dated from Sydney, have from time to time appeared in the English newspapers ; some of them have been so well and so plausibly written, that it would be impossible for any persons ignorant of the colony to detect the false views and misrepresentations (probably unintentional) which they contained. Such absurdities indeed have been sent forth to the public in this way, that a person intimately acquainted with the details of the colony, would be apt to imagine that the writers had never been in the country at all.

Since my return to England I have had an opportunity of hearing some observations from a highly respectable gentleman, who had resided several years in Sydney Any remarks from him upon the subject of New South Wales would have been considered as valuable by persons wishing to obtain accurate information of that country. The observations however which he made, demonstrated to me that he really knew nothing of the matter, and added another very striking instance to the many which I had before experienced, that persons who are supposed to be good authorities because they have been at, or have resided in Sydney, arc frequently no better judges of the

INTRODUCTION.

. XVI soil and the general capabilities of the country, than an English tradesman living and confined to his trade in London would be of the interior and agriculture of Ireland. Persons wishing to emigrate from foreign countries to the British dominions as agriculturists, would hardly venture to rely upon information obtained from such a source ; yet we see conduct similar to it daily practised by our coun trymen with reference to New South Wales, which can only be accounted for from its great distance from the mother country, which unfortunately causes almost every thing regarding it to be viewed through a false medium. If I am not much mistaken, the prevailing idea in England is, and always has been, that Australia is a rich and naturally productive portion of the globe. I can only say that such an opinion of it is quite at variance with my experience.

The great extent of the country (if the un known interior be not barren) will for ages to come, in some degree, compensate for its defective soil ; but this circumstance, and the want of navigable waters into the interior of the country, must for ever cause it to remain a pastoral, and consequently a comparatively thinly popu lated region. Districts of good soil are generally found in the immediate neighbourhood of rivers, as well as on their banks. The scenery also is sometimes beautifully wild and striking, and sufficiently varied to interest the traveller in no ordinary degree, but these do not constitute the general character of the country ; nor have I ever con versed with any persons there of experience and observation

INTRODUCTION.

. XVII who have not expressed themselves greatly disappointed upon these subjects, after comparing the reality of things with the descriptions that had been given of them in England. People in general however, and especially settlers who emigrated at an earlier period, who have been fortunate in the situation and quality of their land, and whose employment is in the open air, are captivated by the voluptuousness of the climate, and the freedom of the air from distempered miasma, arising from decayed vege table matter and stagnant pools. The absence of under wood secures this happy result, and leaves an open and grassy country on almost every side of them. It affords also, without previous labour, facilities for grazing flocks and herds upon the spontaneous herbage of the soil, and forms a pleasing relief to the eye under the blaze of an almost perpetual sunshine ; but, unfortunately, all these advantages, which render it so pleasant and so healthy an abode for man, are produced by causes which are also the origin of its poverty, and which I shall endeavour more particularly to explain in the body of this work.

There is another feature in this remarkable country which must ever have great influence on the extent of its population and the quantity of its exportable productions, at least as far as present settlements are concerned — I mean the want of navigable waters. Nowhere has any discovery been made of a river which is navigable above twenty or twenty-five miles, and enough is now known of the coasts at very considerable distances from the present

INTRODUCTION.

. settlements, to warrant a belies that there are none in existence of greater extent. The form of the country will explain in some degree the reason of such an extraordinary fact. On the line of coasts as far as I have seen them, which is from about latitude 27° to 40° both on the eastern and western sides, there are dividing ranges of mountains running from south to north not more than fifty or sixty miles from the sea. The waters from the interior do not appear any where to have penetrated them, and conse quently rivers which discharge themselves into those parts of the ocean, take their rise on the exterior sides of the ranges not more than sixty miles from the sea. It is not yet ascertained on what quarter of the coast the great interior waters have their outlet ; but from the little that is known of the country, and from its exterior appearances, it is conjectured that it takes place on the north-west side of it.

In this case, the waters which rise in the mountains south of the settlement called Bathurst, ■ even though they moved in a direct line, must run a distance of nearly two thousand miles, but which, according to the tortuous courses of rivers, could not be less than six or seven thousand miles, the extent of the country being about two thousand miles across it. On the eastern coast the range has been crossed, and a settlement called Bathurst has been established behind it. The country about it is of greater elevation than those parts which are nearer to the sea, and consequently colder. Grain and other productions, however, have been raised there equal

INTRODUCTION.

. XIX to any other in the colony ; but the distance from Sydney, over a difficult country, and the want of any navigable rivers, will not admit of the settler's pursuing agriculture there, or in any situation similar to it, beyond raising a supply for his own family, and a reserve against the casualties of the seasons. Sandwell Cottage, Handsworth, near Birmingham, Sept. AUSTRALIA.

Chapter I. The Author's Appointment

— DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND ARRIVAL AT SYDNEY — LANDING OP THE PARTY — RETREAT FARM — NEWCASTLE — PORT STEPHENS — EXCURSION — NATIVES ERECTION OF BARK HUTS — FRIENDLY DISPOSITION OF NA- TIVES — THEIR EFFICIENT ASSISTANCE — RETURN TO SYDNEY DEPARTURE FROM RETREAT FARM — ARRIVAL OF THE PARTY AT PORT STEPHENS — ARRANGEMENTS — PASSAGE OF CATTLE ACROSS THE HARBOUR DISGRACEFUL CONDUCT OF A SHIP- CAPTAIN ARRIVAL OVERLAND OF SHEEP AND CATTLE — SCHOOL ESTABLISHED — RELIGIOUS WORSHIP PERFORMED — LOSS OF SCHOONERS — TIMBER CUTTING PARTIES RUNAWAY CON- VICTS — MURDER OF A NATIVE BOY — TRIAL AND CONVICTION OF THE MURDERERS. In the month of December, 1824, I accepted the appointment of chief agent of the Australian Agricultural Company. In the March following I went to France to make purchases of Merino sheep, to be transported to New South Wales; and on the 24th of June I embarked at Cowes on board the York, having under my charge about forty individuals, (men, women, and children,) together with three hundred and twenty-three sheep, nine head of horned cattle, and a choice collection of British and other plants, selected for cultivation in the far distant land of promise to which we were bound.

B ■> ARRIVAL AT SYDNEY. My nephew, Mr. J. G. Dawson, having been appointed my assistant, embarked at the same time on board the Brothers, having also charge of forty individuals, between three and four hundred sheep, three head of horned cattle, and seven horses. In less than thirty-six hours from the ship's weighing anchor, we lost sight of the shores of our native country. On the 23d of November, 1825, after a favourable voyage of twenty-three weeks, (including fourteen days passed at Rio de Janeiro,) we cast anchor in the harbour of Sydney. Our losses in both the ships, during the voyage, amounted to no more than eighteen sheep, and the remainder were landed in better condition than when they were put on board at Cowes. The directors of the Company having appointed a local committee out of their proprietary resident in the colony, I waited on the only member of it then at Sydney, and consulted him as to the best plan of landing and pro viding for the stock, and of removing the establishment to a farm called Retreat, which the directors had or dered to be hired for the Company's use, previous to my arrival.

The stock were immediately landed and provided for by his excellency Sir Thomas Brisbane on the government domain. It was thought desirable to keep the servants several days on board, although they were, as may naturally be supposed, eager to be relieved from their confined quarters. Two days previous to their being landed, several car penters and masons were dispatched from the ships to the Retreat Farm, for the purpose of making some arrangements before the arrival of the families there. On DEPARTURE FROM SYDNEY. the 27th of November all the establishment were landed, with the whole of their baggage. About twenty carts were mustered in the morning for their conveyance, but it was quite late in the day before they were loaded and ready to start. The scene before, as well as after the procession moved, was a novel and a somewhat ludicrous one.

The women, not having been previously ashore, were attired in their best clothes, displaying their bon nets and ribbons, in the expectation, as they said, of being conveyed to the Farm in a more respectable style ; imagining, no doubt, that covered carts or hackney coaches were as easily to be found in Sydney as in London. Several of them were unwilling to ride with their luggage, while some of the drivers of the carts were equally un willing to admit those to seats who were ready to take them, alleging, with the nicety of distinction and cunning peculiar to "the experienced" of Botany Bay, that they had contracted to carry only dead, and not living matter. The greatest confusion and discontent at this moment prevailed amongst all parties. Children crying, mothers scolding and weeping, husbands complaining, and drivers grumbling at being over-loaded.

" What is to be done ?" I several times exclaimed ; for I was really unable, at the moment, to discern how to reconcile matters, having no other resources than my own wits to help me out of the difficulty. At length I was obliged to promise something extra to the carters, whose object I saw was to take ad vantage of my situation. And I also hired as many more carts as could be obtained for the further accommo dation of my party, who amounted to nearly eighty per sons. 1 now reasoned with some, and scolded and laugh ed at others, till I succeeded in causing all the women b PROCESSION TO RETREAT FARM. and smaller children to be placed in the vehicles, when I ordered the drivers to move on in a line. The carts were accompanied by the men and boys on foot. My nephew, and the Company's wool-sorter, Mr. Charles Hall, were each mounted on horseback: the one rode in front as conductor, while the other brought up the rear.

The procession reached a considerable distance, and as it passed through the principal streets in Sydney, the mov ing multitude of voluntary exiles excited no little curiosity amongst the inhabitants. To those who had been long absent from England, it must have been (as I know it was to some) a rich treat to see such a number of inhabitants of the old country at once starting out, as it were, from the opposite side of the globe, fresh in their habiliments from England, as if they had just left their cottages at home for a Sunday's stroll ; and above all, it was curious to observe our little shepherd-boys, with their homely garments and heavy hob-nailed boots, staring and gaping about as they marched along the street. I accompanied the cavalcade on foot beyond the town, when I returned to transact some matters of business, having promised to join them as early as possible at the Farm on the following morning.

The distance from Sydney to the Retreat was between thirty and forty miles, and the party were therefore obliged to travel all night. The weather when they left Sydney was very fine, but about seven o'clock in the evening it began to rain, and continued to pour inces santly the whole night. I felt much for the poor women and children ; but there was then no possibility of afford ing them any relief, nor could they hope for any until they should arrive at their journey's end. The following DISASTERS OF THE JOURNEY. morning proved remarkably clear and bright, and I started very early for Retreat, being extremely anxious to learn how they got through their journey. The first persons I saw when I entered the premises were the two young men who had accompanied the party on horseback; they were precisely in the plight in which they had arrived a few hours previously.

Their appearance was haggard and wretched in the extreme: their clothes were hardly yet dry upon their backs, their hats were bent in various shapes by the drenching rain; the red dust with which they had been almost suffocated, previous to the rain, had deeply stained their cravats and faces, and one of them was partly covered with red mud, by the repeated tumbles of the jaded hack on which he had been mounted. I was hard hearted enough to enjoy a good laugh at their piteous appearance; and on learn ing from them that the party had arrived safe, and were billetted in different quarters of the house and premises, I proceeded further towards the back front, where the carts had been unloaded. Here I saw, first, a quantity of boxes, trunks, and other luggage scattered about; and next, several of the boysand men fast asleep onthe ground, under the eaves of the house, and in different situations near the baggage, all of them in their wet and dirty clothes, just as they had arrived.

The house and detached offices were fortunately pretty extensive, and afforded cover for the families. Some of them had established themselves in the dairy, some in the cellar, and others in the different rooms and viran dahs attached to the house. One room had been re served for the young men and myself, and on entering the passage to this apartment, I found it occupied by GOOD-HUMOUR DISPLAYED. two families, who were asleep on the floor, at each end of it. Some of the individuals awoke on the door being opened, and on seeing me, wrapped themselves more snugly in their blankets, and called out for me to pass on. I felt too sensibly how miserable a female, with a young family around her, must feel herself in such a situation, and after such a journey, not to sympathise sin cerely with them, but deferred any expression of it till after they had arisen and taken their breakfasts, when I appeared amongst them.

I had calculated that the change from ship-board to the shore, after a long voyage, and the appearance of bright sunshine with a warm day, after such a dismal journey in the preceding night, would have a favourable effect on their minds, and in this I was not mistaken ; for several of them, after com plaining and remonstrating with me, remarked, that any thing, to be sure, was preferable to being on board of ship ; but, that had they known what they did then, nobody would have persuaded them to leave home. I believe, however, that they were convinced that I had done all I could for them in my situation ; and taking my assurances that I would make the best arrangements in my power for their future comfort, they recovered their good-humour, and bantered each other upon the ridiculous figure they cut, and the manner in which they had established themselves on the premises.