Spain ... Illustrated by Gustave Doré. Translated by J. Thomson

Front matter

SPAIN. DEFILE OF DESrENAPEEROS IN THE SIERRA MORENA (page 35S). Frontispiece. SPAIN BY THE BARON CH. D'AVILLlEitv ILLUSTRATED BY GUSTAVE DORE TRANSLATED BY J. THOMSON, F.R.G.S. LONDON BICKERS & SON, i LEICESTER SQUARE CONTENTS CHAPTER T. PAGE From Perpignan to Figueras — The niglit watchman —The irrigation wheel — From Gerona to Barcelona — The capital of Catalonia — The churches — The beggars — A Spanish cemetery — The Rambla — The ancient prisons of the Inquisition — The convent of Monserrat — Tarragona — Spanish brigands — The diligence — The galera, and other vehicles— The mayoral, the zagal, and the delantero — Keus and Poblet — Tortosa-' Vinaroz and the Due de Vendome — The algarrobos — Benicarlo, how the wine of Bordeaux was made a century ago — Ancient Saguntum — Murviedro and its theatre i

Chapter II

Valencia del Cid — Agricultural labours — Valencian costume — The Llotja de seda— The Seu and the Micalet — The Guadalaviar and aqueducts — Tribunal of the waters — The singers of the oraciones — The bandurria and the citara — Valencia, the birthplace of printing in Spain — The Calle de la Plateria — Ancieut dels Hispano- Moresques — Manises — The Valencian tartana 22

Chapter III

Antiquity of bull-sighting — Royal toreros— A feast on the Plaza Mayor of Madrid — Costillares — Romero — Pepe Illo and his book — The ganaderias — The herradura — The novillos — The vaqueros and the cabestros — The midnight journey of the bulls — The Plaza de toros— Bills and programmes of the corridas — The toreros . . 38

Chapter IV

A bull-fight at Valencia — Aspect of the arena — The despejo — The defile of the Cuadrilla — The alguaales — The espadas— The banderilleros — The chulos — The picadores — The release of the bull — The suertes and the cogidas — The picador Calderon is wounded — An obstacle — The Gordito — The Tato — The sword and the muleta — The estocada a volapit? — A shower of sombreros — The cachetero— The tiros of mules — The banderillas de fuego —The sobresaliente — The suertes de capa, — The Gordito and bis chair — A banderillero in danger — The bullvaulter 46 CHAPTER Y. The Albufera — Shooting and fishing — The sportsmen — Alcira — Carcagente — The oranges of the kingdom of Valencia — The huerta of Gandia — Aloes and their uses — The papd de hilo — The fete of St. George — Combat between Moors and Spaniards — Jativa — Alinanza — The pyramid — Albacete, the Sheffield of Spain — Navajas, cuchillos, and puhales— The poniard in the garter — From Albacete to Alicante — Villena— Alicante — Elche and its forest of palms— The dates and palms 65

Chapter VI

Orihuela — Extraordinary fertility— The Segura — Murcia — Popular costumes — The fete of Corpus — Cartagena — From Murcia to Granada— The galera atartanada — Totana— The gipsies — Lorca — Cullar de Baza — A population of cave-dwellers— Baza — The Inn of Gor— Guadiz — Arrival at Granada 97 b CONTENTS. VI

Chapter VII. Tage

Granada — The Casa de pupilos — Musicians and their music — Origin of Granada, the ancient Karnattah — Phœnicians, Romans, Goths, and Arabs — Grandeur and decadence of the Moorish capital — The Calle de los Gomeres—The Puerta de las Granadas — The hill of the Alhambra — The Gate of Judgment — The hand and the key— The Plaza de los Algibes — The Puerta del Vino— The palace of Charles V— The Adarves— The vases of the .Alhambra— The foundation of the Alhambra — The governments and their devastations— The Gobernador Manco 113

Chapter VIII

The tower de los Siete Suelos— The ghosts of the Alhambra— The headless horse and the hairy phantom— The Alcazaba — The Torre del Homenage and that of the Vela — The bell and the young spinsters— The fall of Granada — The palace of the Alhambra — The Patio de los Arrayanes — The Patio and the Taza de los Leones; the blood-stains — The Abencerrages and the Zegris — Massacre in the Court of the Lions — The Hall of the Abencerrages — The Sala de las Dos Hermanas— The Hall of Ambassadors — The azulejos — The beautiful Galiana — The Tocador de la Reina — The garden and balcony of Lindaraja — The Sala de Secretos and that of the nymphs — The baths of the Sultana — The paintings of the Sala del Tribunal 137

Chapter IX

The Generalise ; the cypresses of the Sultana — The Silla del Moro — The Fuente el Avellano — The Darro — The Zacatin — The Cathedral of Granada — The Capilla real ; the tombs of the Catholic sovereigns — The Bibrambla ; more about the Abencerrages and the Zegris ; burning of Arabic books — The Ear arcade and the street of Knives — The Alcaiceria — The Museum — The Carluia — The church ahd promenade of las Angustias — The Plaza de Bailen ; Maria Pineda — The Salon — The Genii ; Boabdil and the Catholic sovereigns—The Moorish baths— Sacro-Monte — The gipsies of Granada — An improvised ball; the Pelra — Excursion to the Sierra Nevada— The neveros — The barrancos and the ventisqueros — The Picacho de Veleta . 164

Chapter X

From Granada to Jaen— The Javalcuz and the Pandera — Jaen ; the Santo Rostro— Excursion to the Alpujarra — Alhendin ; el Ultimo Suspiro del Moro— The Valley of Lecrin — Padul — The Venta de los Mosquitos — Durcal — Atrocities of the Moorish War — Fernando del Valor and Aben-Humeya— Ginez Perez de Hitn, soldier and historian— Lanjaron— Ujijar— The Barranco de Poqueria— Aben Abu— The Sierra de Gador— The Rio Verde — Berja— Almeria ; the Sacro Catino — The Moor Tuzani— Adra and Motril ; tropical vegetation — Salobrena and the goddess Salambo — Almunecar — The caiias dulces and the sugar mills — Velez-Malaga — Garcilaso and the Veja— Malaga— The malaguenas— The Cathedral — Andalucian fencing ; puHal and navaja — The javeque, the desjarretazo, the plumada, the floretazo, the corrida, etc. — The molinete, etc. ; lanzar la navaja — Types of Malaguehos ; the charran; the arriero and the ounce of gold — The barateros . . . 195

Chapter XI

Environs of Malaga— Loja — The Peiia de los Enamorados— Archidona — The Andalucian bandoleros; the Ninos of Ecija ; Jose Maria— Antequera— Ronda : the Rondenas— The cmtrabandistas and the contraband trade of Andalucia— Gaucin— Gibraltar— San Roque— Aljeciras— Tarifa : the Tarifenas— Vejer and the tardios— Chiclana — Cadiz ; the "improbæ Gaditanæ" of Martial — Lord Byron and the bulls — The Puerta Santa Maria —Jarez de la Frontera— The Jarezanos— The Plaza— The toro del aguardiente— -The vineyards— The wines of Jarez— Arcos de la Frontera— San Lucar de Barrameda ; the manzanilla— Bonanza— The Guadalquivir -An lierradtro — The novilladas de lugar — San Juan de Alfarache — Arrival at Seville 223

Chapter XII

The origin of Seville— The calle de las Sierpes— The Sevillians— The Mantilla de tira— The Correo— Christian names— The Ayuntamiento— The arms of Seville— Streets in Seville ; the calle de Genoa ; the calle de Mar— The calle de Candidejo and Peter the Cruel— The Feria— The plaza de la Magdalena; the puestos de agua —The Alemeda de Hercules— The Giralda— The Cathedral— The Alcazar; the baiios de Padilla— -The Capilla de Azulejos— The Casa de Pilatos— The University— The Museum ; Murillo— Tho Fabriea de Tabacos ; the cigarreras CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XIII. Tace

The feria de Seville — The chalanes and the chalanerias — The Noche buena — The buholeras — The majos and majas — The Andalucian dialect — The feria de Torrijos : popular scenes — A gipsy in liquor — The Romerias — The Virgen del Rocio — Sante-Ponce, the ancient Italica — The religious fetes of Seville ; the Pasos — The Cristo del Gran Poder — The Cirio Pascual — The Passion-week processions — The brotherhoods — The theatres of Seville — Zarzuelas and sainetes — The Barateros of Seville : Barbers of Seville — Triana and its inhabitants — The potteries of Triana — Gipsies of Triana, their funeral ceremonies and their language 278

Chapter XIV

Antiquity of Spanish dances — M-artial and the puellæ gaditanæ — The crotalia and the castanuelas — A treatise on the castanets — The tambourine — The pavana of Spain — The paspie, the pasacalle, and the folias — The zarabanda ; opinion of Padre Mariana — The zarabanda at the Courts of Spain and of France — Ancient Arabian dances — The fandango — A Dancing Academy — The boleros robadas, and the jaleo de Jerez — An improvised musician — A baile de candil in the suburb of Triana — The cantadores — The polo — Supper in a gipsy tavern — The caleseras de Cadiz — The cana — The zapateado at the fair of Seville — An old gipsy — The bolero — The national dancers and the ancient Spanish engravings — The seguidillas — The seguidillas manchegas — The Jota Aragonesa — Religious coplas — The Valencian jota — Dancing at a funeral — The jota of Navarre and Catalonia — The danza prima — The Carmago 302

Chapter XV

A bull-fight a la Portuguesa — Don Joaquin de los Santos ; el Caballero en Plaza — Jose B6, el Tigre — The rejondllos — The Pegadores — The Indians, or Negroes — Maria Rosa Carmona — The Gorrito and his stilts — Repartee of a picador to the actor Maiquez — A torera : Teresa Bolsi — Olive plantations in the environs of Seville — Spanish olive oil — From Seville to Cordova ; Carmona — Excursion to Ecija — Palma ; the Genii — Arrival at Cordova — Antiquity of the town — Cordova during the Roman epoch — Abdul- Rahman and the Calif at of the West — Entering Cordova in olden times by diligence — The Mezquita : the court of the orange-trees — Interior of the Mosque : the Mihrib ; el zancarron— Riches of the Mosque during the Arab epoch — The choir — Marble pillar sculptured by a Christian captive — Curious tombs — The Puerta del Perdon — Decadence of Cordova . . 328

Chapter XVI

The environs of Cordova : the mills of the Guadalquivir — The Palace of Az-Zarah — Luxury of the Califs of Cordova — Serenading in Andalucia ; the novia and the novio — Pelar la pava, " Plucking the turkey " — Mascar hierro, " Chewing iron " — Some couplets — Andalucian devotion to the Virgin — Andujar and its alcarrazas — The Sierra Morena and its ermitanos — More about Jose Maria — The Venta de Cardenas — Spanish beggars — La Mancha and its inhabitants — Causes of the misery of the population — Santa Cruz de Mudela and its cutlery — The wine of La Mancha — Ciudad-Real and Valdepenas — Manzanares 353

Chapter XVII

The Campo de Montiel — Peter the Cruel and Henry of Trastamare — The Venta of Quesada — The windmills of La Mancha — Souvenirs of Don Quixote and of Sancho — Toboso — Tembleque — Estremadura and its inhabitants — Deserts and pasturages — The convent of Guadalupe — Trujillo — Merida and its ancient monuments — Badajoz — Spanish inns : fonda, parador, posada, meson, venta, etc. — Picturesque names — Accounts of ancient travellers- Why the inns are so miserable — Montanchez — Flocks of sheep and the Mesta — The merinos — Organisation of nomadic flocks — Shepherds and dogs — Caceres — The b&caros of Estremadura — Bridge of Alconetar — Bridge of Alcantara — Plasencia — The retreat of Charles V. : why named Yuste and not Saint Just — Talavera de la Reina, anciently famed for its faiences .... 356

Chapter XVIII

Antiquity of Toledo ; the city under the Romans, the Visigoths, and the Arabs — The Cathedral — Wealth of the ancient clergy— The Zocodover — The Alcazar — Ancient synagogues : Santa Maria la Bianca — The ancient Jews of Spain — Ancient convents of Toledo — Monks — Some proverbs — Saint-Simon and the monks of Toledo — The crowns of Guarrazar — The Fdfbrica de A rinas— Ancient fame of the blades of Toledo — Their temper— The iron of Spain — Decadence of the arms of Toledo 3S1 CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter XIX. Page

From Toledo to Madrid— Aranjuez : the palace and gardens— Bull and tiger fighting— Arrival at Madrid ; historical notes— The ancient houses ; interior decorations— Some strophes of Madrid ridicule— The climate— The Puerta dei Sol — Cost of building materials— The shops and shopkeepers— Notes on the Spanish press— The newspapers—The petty journals— Satirical papers— Theatrical and sporting sheets— Journals of Barcelona and the provinces — The Republican press 394

Chapter XX

The Calle de Alcala — Academy of San Fernando and the Gabinete de Historia Natural — The Calle Mayor— Silverware of the ancient Palace of Madrid — Theatres of Madrid — Theatrical success — The Plaza Mayor and its fetes ; the Fesias reales; the Autos de Fe" ; the great Acte de Foi of 1680 — The bull-fights— Politicians of the Plaza Mayor — The Maragatos — The Eseribanos of the Calle Mayor— The prison of Francis I. — The Calle de Toledo — Street merchants— The cries of Madrid — The Rastro — The Fdbrica de Tabacos — The Cigarrera and the Manola — The Prado and the Fuente Castellana — The Buen Retiro 406

Chapter XXI

The Museum of Madrid — The foreign schools — The Spanish school — Velazquez : his portraits ; abuse of paint at the court of Philip IV. — Murillo — The churches — The Processions of Madrid : penitents, scourgers, and others — The Brotherhood of Pazy Caridad; a capital execution — The Palacio Real, and ancient Alcazar of Madrid — The prison of Francis I. — The Armeria: historical arms ; the casque of Charles V, and that of Francis I. — The Manzanares ; public baths — The environs of Madrid — Sportsmen — The Casa del Campo and the Prado 417

Chapter XXII

The Escurial — The vow of Phillip II. — The patio de los Reyes — The Relicario — The Panteon — The Library — Alcala de Henares— The University— The Students — From Madrid to Cuenca— The pine forests — The Cathedral of CueBqa — Segovia : the aqueduct ; the Alcazar and the Cathedral 431

Chapter XXIII

Avila — The Cathedral— An inn — Salamanca : its university— Alba de Tormes — The Charros and Charras — From Salamanca to Zamora— Toro— Medina del Campo— Charles V. at Medina— The Braseros— Valladolid ; the Plaza Mayor— -The Museum ; Pompeo Leoni— Berruguete and Gregorio Hernandez— Houses of historic fame 444

Chapter XXIV

Palencia : the Cathedral— The Cathedral of Leon— Astorga— Some words about Spanish cookery— The temperance of Spaniards— The olla podrida and the puchero— The chocolate of Astorga ; antiquity of chocolate in Spain— Curious traits— Philip V. and Saint-Simon— Galicia— Villafranca del Vierzo— Lugo— The segadores gallegos— Popular songs and sayings about the Galicians— Santiago— Saint James of Compostelle— The Cathedral— Oviedo— The Asturias— Covadonga— The inscription of the King Silo— The pass ofPajares 4J2

Chapter XXV

Burgos— Costumes of the peasants ; the Montera— The Mercado de la Llendre- -The Casa del Cordon, and the Arco de Santa Maria— The Ayuntamiento ; the bones of the Cid— The Cathedral— A statue of Christ covered with human skin ; el Cofre de Cid— The monastery of Las Huelgas and the Cartuja de Miraflores ; the nuns— San Pedro de Cordova : the tomb of the Cid— The Cid : did he really exist !— Miranda de Ebro— The Ebro— The Calahorra— Tudela ,55 CONTENTS. IX PAGE 478 495

Chapter XXVI

The Aragonese and their costume; the cinta morada ; the alpargatas— Hich. — Carinena — Teruel: legend of los Amantes de Teruel— Calatayud : the Moreria— The Castillo del iiWq/'— Medina-Celi— Siguenza— The popular physicians of Spain : Barberos, sangradores, sacamuelas, curanderos ; and other charlatans — Bleeding the arm and the foot ; satirical couplets on the doctors ; Guadalajara ; the palace of the dukes of the Infantado— Saragossa ; the Torre Nueva (leaning tower)— Our Lady del Pilar— The popular saints ; San Anton and the loaves and ladies ; a saint in a well ; some coplas — San Juan de Dios, San Roque, etc.

Chapter XXVII

Sale of the Jewels of our Lady del Pilar. — The Catalogue ; duration of sale ; the adjudication ; principal objects sold. The Goldsmith's Art. — The crowns of gold of Guarrazar — The jewels of the sixteenth century — The art of enamelling in Spain, etc. — Arms and Iron-Work. Spanish Ceramic and Glass-ware. — Azulejos — Hispano-Moresque Ware — Arab potteries — Spanish porcelains of Buen Retiro, Alcora, and Madrid. Wood-carving. — The wood-carving of the sixteenth century — The Arabian ivories — Carvings of the Middle Ages — Decadence of the art. Furniture. Fabrics. — Richness of the stuffs made by the Arabs of Spain — The silks of Toledo, Valencia, Talavera, etc. — The tapestries of Alcaraz — Rich embroideries of the Cathedrals. Illuminadoees. — Illuminated chronicles, romances, and other writings— Collectors of objects of antiquity — Portrait of a collector — The trade in curiosities in the Peninsula— Counterfeits 49°

Chapter XXVIII

The provirveias Vaseongadas : Alava, Guipuzcoa, and Vizcaya — The fueros — Ancient nobility — The Basque language — Vitoria : the Plaza nueva ; the market — A proverb touching figs — False money and counterfeit coiners — Zumarraga — Mondragon — Gipsies — Vergara — The Carlists ; popular pictures ; la Historia de Cabrera ; Mozen Anton — Tolosa : church of Santa-Maria — Ancient devotion to souls in purgatory — Some anecdotes : Philip IV. and his hundred thousand masses ; the Count of Villa Mediana and the priest — The mountains — Basque carts ; singular noise produced by their wheels ; some details on the subject — Saint Sebastian — Bilbao — Irun .

Chapter XXIX

The Balearic Islands — Their ancient civilisation ; the Gymnesis of the Greeks — Wealth of Majorca during the Middle Ages— The Majolica — Printing introduced in Majorca — Palma : the cathedral — The L/otja — The convent of San Francisco de Asis and Raymond Lulle — Ancient reputation for beauty of the women of Majorca — Cardinal de Retz at Palma — Ancient dwellings of Palma — The palace of Montenegro ; Mme. Sand — The ancient Jews of Majorca : la. Chueteria — Excursion round the island — Valldemosa ; souvenirs of the author of " Indiana" — The peasants and their costume — Deya — Soller and its oranges — The island of Minorca LIST OF FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. FACING PAGE FACING PAGE Defile of DespeKaperros in the Sierra Morena .....

Frontispiece The Generalife . . . . . .164 Banks of the Darro . . . . .168 Beggars in the Cloister of the Cathedral of Barcelona . * . . . . . 4 Tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella in the Cathedral of Granada . . . .172 A Burial at Barcelona .... 8 The Grottoes of the Gipsies at Sacro- Monte . . . . . . .176 Prison of the Inquisition at Barcelona . 12 An Accident . . . . . . .16 An Adventure at Sacro-Monte . . .180 Working Men of Valencia . . . .22 A Gipsy dancing the Zorongo . . .184 Market-Gardeners, Valencia . . .26 Dance of Gipsy Children at Sacro-Monte . 188 Young Valen clans. . . . . -3° The Puerta de Arenas — Route from Granada to Jaen . . . . . . .192 Tribunal of the Waters, Valencia . . 34 Drove of Fighting Bulls : Midnight A Relay at Jaen . . . . .196 40 The Picador Calderon . . . . .46 A Family of Mendicants .... 200 Arrival of Picadores . . . . -5° The Barranco of Poqueria in the Alpujarras ....... 204 The Cachetero . . . . -54 A Banderillero in Danger .... 58 The Cathedral and Port of Malaga . . 210 A Bull clearing the Barrier . . .62 Charranes and Marineros on the Beach . 216 A Baratero exacting the Barato . . 218 Smugglers of the Serrania de Ronda . . 230 The Torero's Narrative after a Bull-fight 66 The Banks of the Guadalaviar ... 70 The Lake of Albufera ..... 74 The Rock of Gibraltar .... 234 Flamingo-shooting on the Lake of Albufera 78 Cadiz 238 Fete of Alcoy . . . . . .82 Arcos de la Frontera . . . . .242 Orange-trees at Carcagente ... 86 , The Herradero on the Banks of the Guadalquivir . . . . . .246 Peasants in the Neighbourhood of Carca- Palacio del Ayuntamiento, Seville . . 250 The Giralda, Seville . . . . -254 gente ....... 90 A Street in Albacete ... . . -94 Forest of Palms at Elche . . . .98 Puerta del Perdon, Seville Cathedral . 258 Interior of Seville Cathedral . . .262 A Gipsy's Toilet at Diezma . . . .108 Moorish Arches of the Alcazar, Seville . 266 Ladies of Granada listening to Itinerant Dwarf Musicians . . . . .114 La Fabrica de Tjvtbacos, Seville . . .270 Balconies at Granada . . . . . ti8 La Sala de Embaj adores, Alcazar, Seville 274 A Family of Beggars at Granada . . 122 Peasants going to the Fair . . . .278 A Paso at Seville . . . . .286 General View of the Alhambra . . .126 Gate of the Torre de las Infantas . . 130 Penitents accompanying a Paso . . .290 The Vase of the Alhambra. . . 134 Gipsies Mourning (Suburb of Triana) . . 296 The Tower of Comares . . . 138 Patio de los Array anes (Court of Myrtles) 144 Gallery of the Patio de los Arrayanes . 14S Patio de los Leones (Court of Lions) . 152 TnE Torres Bermejas and the Generalife . 156 The Fandango at the Theatre San Fernando, Seville ....... 304 A Dancing Academy, Seville . . -310 Gipsy dancing the Vito Sevillano . 314 Gipsies dancing in a Court of Seville . 318 Gate of the Sala de Justicia . . .160 A Funereal Jota (Province of Alicante) .

LIST OF FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

XII FACING PAGE facing PAGE Portuguese Corrida at Seville : the Pega- The Palacio Real of Madrid . . .420 La Fuente del Cisne (Fountain of the Swan), Madrid ..... 424 dores ....... 330 Teresa Bolsi, Andalucian Torera . 334 Exterior of the Mosque of Cordova . -342 General View of the Escurial . . .428 Chapel of the Zancarron, Mosque of Cordova . . ..... 346 Library of the Escurial . . . -432 Students serenading ... . 436 Interior of the Mosque of Cordova . . 350 Segovia : the Alcazar and Cathedral . . 440 A Serenata at Cordova .... 354 Peasant's Funeral, Old Castile . . 448 Defile of the Despenaferros, in the Sierra Morena ....... 358 Sahagun, Province of Leon . . . -452 The Poplars of the Country round Leon . 456 Arrival of the Diligence at the Inn, Santa Cruz de Mudela . . . . 362 Native Cart and Chestnut Merchant. . 460 The Poor de Solemnidad, Burgos . . 466 The Mills of La Mancha . . . .366 Old Clothes Market, Burgos . . . 470 The Jars of La Mancha . . . -37° Gorges of Pancorbo 474 Ruins of the ancient Theatre of Merida . 374 Court of the Palace of the Due de l'Infantado ....... 478 A Shepherd of Estremadura . . -378 Interior of Toledo Cathedral . . -382 The Leaning Tower of Saragossa . .482 Alcazar of Toledo . . . . .386 Church of Our Lady del Pilar, Saragossa . 486 Balconies of Vitoria ..... 496 The Puerta del Sol (Gate of the Sun), Toledo 390 Market at Vitoria ..... 500 The Queen's Avenue, Aranjuez . . . 394 Basque Shepherd, Province of Alava . . 504 General View of Madrid . . . 398 Basque Dairymaid, San Sebastian . . 50S Scene from the " Tio Caniyitas " . . 406 Rocks of Aumalluch, Majorca . . .516 OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE PAGE Ruins of the Castle of Chinchilla . 82 The Navaja 85 The Noria ....... i The Col de Pertus ; the Cork-trees . . 2 The Custom-house Officers of Junquera . 3 Col de Pertus (Chateau de Bellegarde) . 4 Ruins of the Roman Theatre of Murviedro 20 Passage of a Torrent . . . . .21 A Quarrel at the Game of Ball, Valencia 22 Valencian Labourers ..... 25 An Old Woman of Valencia . . .26 Valencian Labourer . . . . .29 Boatmen of the Port of Valencia . . 30 Musicians at the Gate of the Cathedral, Valencia . . . . . -33 A Tartanero. ...... 37 The Espada ....... 38 Pose of Banderillas ..... 45 The Gordito 46 The Triumph of the Espada . . -58 Play of the Cape 62 Toreros in the Calle Zaragoza ... 65 Wandering Musicians ..... 69 Preparation of the Aloes . . . 74 Peasant of Alcoy . . . . . -77 A Sketch at the Fete of Alcoy . . -78 Sketch in Albacete ..... 86 Alicante ....... 89 Traders of Alicante ..... 90 Two Ladies. — Sketch made at Alicante . 93 Binding up the Palm-leaves .... 94 The Gipsy's Breakfast . . . . .*■ 97 Peasant of Orihuela . . . . . 98 Reapers in the Fields of Murcia . . 101 Sketch made at Murcia . . . .-102 Market-gardeners, Murcia . . . -103 Peasants of Totana . . . . .104 Aguadores of Lorca . . . . .108 Peasant of the Environs of Granada . . 112 The Gate of Justice, Alhambra . . 113 Family of Travelling Musicians .

. .121 Despoilers of the Azulejos of the Alhambra 134 The Balcony of Lindaraja . . . 137 Sketch in the Suburbs of Granada . .164 The Gipsy Rico 183 The Panderon in the Siei-jia Nevada . .188 Nevero of the Sierra Nevada . . .192 View of Lanjaron in the Alpujarras.

OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS, XIII PAGE PAGE An Aged Mendicant and his Grandchild . 209 Peasant in the Environs of Madrid . 4 15 A Duel with the Navaja . . . .214 A Barber and his Customers . . . 406 Throwing the Navaja . . . . -215 Peasants in the Neighbourhood of Madrid 411 The Charran of Malaga . . . .217 Valencian Waitress . . . . .412 Fencing with the Punal . . . .222 •Tar Merchant, Madrid . . . .413 Arranco tn the Sierra de Ronda . . 223 Roasting Chestnuts . . . . -415 Roman Bridge at Ronda . . . .227 Weighing Charcoal . . . . .416 The young Toreros : a Scene in Ronda . 228 Fountain of the Four Seasons, Madrid . 417 Majo and Peasants in the Environs of Jerez ..... . 249 Interior of the Armeria, Madrid . 424 Peasant of the Environs of Madrid . -427 Cigarreras at Work in the Fabrica de Tabacos of Seville .... 250 Shepherdess, Environs of Madrid . . 428 Students de la Tuna . . . . -431 Inhabitants of the Suburb Macarena, Seville ....... 257 Students Travelling with Muleteers . -436 Cuenca ........ 440 Cigarreras of the Tobacco Factory, Seville 277 Pine Forest of Cuenca .... 443 Majos and Majas at the Fair of Rocio, Environs of Seville . . . .278 Salamanca : the Town and Roman Bridge . 444 Charro of Salamanca 446 Ruins of Italica, near Seville . . . 285 Mendicants . . . . . . -451 A Box in the Principal Theatre of Seville 301 Banks of the Carrion, Palencia . . -452 The Bolero 302 Grajal, near Leon . . . . 456 Andalucian Dancers 309 Galician, Holiday Costume .... 464 An Andalucian Bolera and her Mother . 313 Interior of a Country Inn . . . . 465 The Aragonese Jota . . . . 322 The Cid's Coffer, Burgos Cathedral . . 466 Guitarrero and Poor Dancing Girl . 327 Gorges of Pancorbo: the Tunnel . -474 Miguel Lopez Gorrito, Mounted on Stilts, Killing a Bull in the Plaza of Seville 328 The Monastery of Las Huelgas, near Burgos 477 Olive Plantations near Saragossa . -478 Andalucian Santero ..... 339 An Aragonese Pedlar ..... 489 Cattle Merchant of Cordova . . . 350 Buckler, with the Head of Medusa, in the Armoury of Madrid . . . . 490 Sketch at Valdepenas . . . . -353 A Youthful Mendicant. — Sketch made at the Venta de Cardinas .... 365 Hispano Moresque Vase .... 494 Miranda de Ebro ...... 495 Ancient Aqueduct at Merida . . . 366 Castilian Shepherd ..... 496 An Unfortunate Day : Despair of a Guitarrero ....... 378 The Sierra de Oca, near Miranda de Ebro 499 Fowl Merchant, Vitoria . . . -503 Idlers on the Bridge of Alicante . -381 Gipsy Camp, near Zumarraga . . .504 Bridge of Saint Martin, Toledo . . . 385 Basque Peasant ...... 507 An Arabian Well, Toledo . . . 3S6 Village on the Road to San Sebastian . 511 Interior of San Juan de los Reyes, Toledo 390 A 1)oor of the Middle Ages, Toledo . 393 A Relay between Toledo and Madrid . 394 Combat between a Bull and a Tiger . * 397 View in Majorca 512 Environs of Valldemosa, Majorca . . 515 Peasant Woman, Majorca . . . .516 Peasants, Majorca . . . 519 Vendor of Wax Matches .... 403 Peasant, Majorca . . . . . .520 C THE