Round the World by Doctors' Orders. Being a narrative of a year's travel, etc

Preface

. IN placing this book containing the history of a year's travels round the world before the public, the writer is following the advice and counsel of many friends. Whether they are wise or not in recommending such a proceeding is one of those things which the future only can show. The manuscript was written without any idea of publication, and did duty as a series of circular letters to fireside friends at home. The work pretends to no literary merit ; it is merely a description of the many scenes and incidents which, during the journey, presented themselves to the writer's notice. It is hoped that those who may be about to take a like tour will find this work a helping hand stretched out to assist them over the difficulties which always attend a journey such as is described, and which are apt to try the temper and spoil all true enjoyment, especially in a country not visited before.

At the same time, it is trusted that the work will be found interesting and perhaps instructive to the general reader. CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. VOYAGE TO CEYLON 3 II. CEYLON 21 III. VOYAGE TO VICTORIA 29 IV. VICTORIA 37 V. TASMANIA 5J VI. NEW ZEALAND 6l VII. NEW ZEALAND— NORTH ISLAND— MAORI COUNTRY . 81 VIII. NEW SOUTH WALES 107 IX. VOYAGE TO CHINA 121 X. CHINA 149 XI. JAPAN 181 XII. CALIFORNIA 249 XIII. ALASKA 273 XIV. CANADA ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE SINGALESE DWELLING 23 SINGALESE BULLOCK WAGGON 25 STURT STREET, BALLARAT, VICTORIA 41 LAUNCESTON 52 FERN TREE BOWER 57 THE REMARKABLES 64 DUNEDIN 65 SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAINS 73 CROSSING A RIVER 75 WELLINGTON 82 MAORI MEN AND WOMEN 83 A GEYSER 90 A MAORI PAH, OR VILLAGE -92 OHINEMUTU AND LAKE ROTORUA 94 A MAORI CHIEF 97 A MAORI WHARRY, OR HOUSE IOO SYDNEY TOWN HALL AND CENTENNIAL HALL . . . .

II3 NATIVES, NEW SOUTH WALES 1 l6 NATIVES, MELVILL ISLAND 1 32 QUEENSLAND ABORIGINE 1 34 NATIVES 137 NATIVES AND CANOE, MINDORO ISLAND 145 PALANQUIN OR SEDAN CHAIR 1 5 1 QUEEN'S ROAD, HONG KONG 1 55 A CHINESE TEMPLE l6l A CHINESE EXECUTION Illustrations. VIII PAGE A CHINESE COURT OF JUSTICE 165 A JOST PROCESSION 1 69 FEMALE PUNISHMENT ' 171 CHINESE FISHING 1 77 A "MUSMEE " 184 DRESSING HAIR 205 ' ' DIABUTSU " OR GOD 208 ENTRANCE TO THE SHRINE OF A SHOGUN 211 JAPANESE CHILDREN 213 SACRED BRIDGE, NIKKO 217 TORII OR ENTRANCE TO A TEMPLE 2I9 PART OF A TEMPLE 222 A JAPANESE FAN DANCER 228 JAPANESE KITCHEN 237 SAN FRANCISCO 253 GLACIER POINT 263 MARIPOSA PARK TREE 263 TOTEM POLES 278 JUNEAU, ALASKA 28 1 ICEBERG 288 AN INDIAN'S HOUSE 29I VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA 299 VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA 303 INDIANS 316 WINNIPEG, CANADA I VOYAGE TO CEYLON. I

Chapter I. Voyage To Ceylon

ATOVEMBER 6th, 1891.— We left Charing Cross Hotel at 10 in the morning for Fenchurch Street Station, reaching it with some difficulty on account of the " blocks " in the streets. These were, however, nothing in comparison with the crowds at the station. There was a regular crush and push of passengers, with about double the number of friends seeing them off. A Bank Holiday was nothing to it. Two special trains were dispatched with about three thousand passengers, friends, and baggage, all mixed up in a manner most irritating to the mind and wearying to the body. Even as I am now writing, the next day, many people have not yet found their " petit baggage," and no wonder. At Tilbury there were several " tenders " waiting to take the passengers to the ship Ophir, the scene on which was like a fair.

People got on board and lost their friends, not to find them again, for this ship beats the " Maze " at Hampton Court. After half an hour, friends were warned for the shore; then commenced the process of "tears and tearing away," and long adieus. Those in the ship, as Voyage lo Ceylon. 4 passengers, were summoned to a sumptuous lunch in the splendid saloon, about twenty-five feet in height, decorated in a most elegant and artistic style. When the repast was finished we found the good ship Ophir had gone a considerable distance down the river, we being unaware a start had been made. We arranged our cabin, and at 6.30 had a good and well-cooked dinner. The sea the first night was quite smooth, but on board all sorts of things were going on — workmen hammering, stewards cleaning, passengers snoring — one like a traction-engine — others walking about.

All this could be plainly heard in the absence of the noise of the screw, for the fore end of the ship is as free from engine and screw noise as a sailing vessel. November 7th. — A fine morning, smooth sea, very cold. We are going down the Channel to Plymouth, where we expect to take on board many more passengers. Letters have just been delivered, but how they came, or where from, I do not know, but so it is. People still cannot find their way about, and it is quite common to hear the question asked, " Will you tell me the way to No. — ?" and luggage hunting is also going on with vigour, but with little success. I am writing in the children's dining-room for want of a better place, because everybody is anticipating Plymouth, and busy with correspondence on every available table. On arriving at Plymouth Harbour a steam tender brought letters and a large quantity of provisions, including about a thousand gallons of milk.

Many small boats came along side with all kinds of things for sale, from deck-chairs to ginger ale^the latter being credited as a sure preventative of sea-sickness. A notice was posted on board, " Will sail at 4 o'clock, sharp," consequently only two or three passengers went ashore. At 4 o'clock the steam tender left, and there was every preparation made for starting, even to the " Hurrah ! " which, to our minds, is something like a " prize-fighter's smile." We waited on deck to see the last of old England. The weather continued bitterly cold and the atmosphere quite hazy, so, leaving old England to take care of itself, we sought the comfort of " afternoon tea," when we learnt that the owners and engine makers had just decided to overhaul the engines and machinery, and that we might remain where we were many hours !

At io o'clock, these gentlemen, having satisfied their minds, departed, leaving us to do the same. Our first step was to get rid of the wind, and keep out the cold by closing the ventilators. The sea was smooth, and the night quiet, for the demons of unrest had departed, and the noise had ceased. November 8th. — A grand morning, with bright sunshine, but still cold, sea smooth. At 6 A.M. we passed Ushant, and were in the " Bay," the ship sailing well, and the passengers, for the most part, looking cheerful. Being Sunday, there was a chance of learning something of the religious tendencies of this large number of people all thrown together. A Church of England service was held in the grand saloon, some sort of a dissenting one in the second-class saloon, and a Salvation Army one on the steerage deck, fore and aft, which appeared most vigorous, for there was a whole regiment, both of men and women, going to fight the " Evil One," in Australia.

We have on board also the veiled nuns from a convent, and several Roman Catholic priests. The weather at sunset looked threatening, and, later on, the wind began to blow, working up a " sea " ; and yet although it was Sunday night the ship went in for " pitch and toss," which, in S , is an offence under the Vagrant Act, so we shut our eyes and went to sleep. November gth.— Lord Mayor's Day, a wet morning, a slight sea on, the ship sailing splendidly. The wind is warm and balmy as we pass off the coast of Portugal, having made a good run. The Captain, with a frugal mind, has now gone in for saving coals, and is working the ship with one set of engines, which has reduced the speed to twelve miles an hour. Ships, like other institutions, are subject to strikes. On board is a band of professors of music, engaged to play and amuse the people.

They resolved themselves into a Band of Hope, hoping to get something not bargained for, and so " struck." However, " all's well that ends well," and the affair ended in an amicable arrangement this after noon, and the artistes " struck " up a tune. Being a fine night the band again played, and the passengers pro menaded, the electric light being very effective. November ioth, Tuesday. — A fine morning, with bright sunshine, but a heavy swell on. We are still going half speed. We passed St. Vincent Head, and were in sight of land for some hours. The sunshine and warmth brought out the passengers, and great-coats and rugs were consigned to the cabins, making every one look much happier. The ship is a wonder, but ought not to have been sent to sea for another month, the arrangements being as yet far from perfect, causing much discomfort.

This morning, for instance, a pipe leaked somewhere near our cabin, resulting in a flooded floor ; such a mess and disturbance. Then again, the hot-water apparatus for the baths is not Voyage lo Ceylon. 7 in working order ; but, like the music, we live in hopes of better times. November nth, Wednesday. — A grand warm morning, with bright sunshine. About seven we passed Tangiers, and sailed into " Gib." — the mighty Gib. — about 8.30. Although this was bur third visit, the impression of grandeur was none the less, and its busy port was as full of ships as ever. After breakfast we went ashore, and felt quite at home in the streets. Of course the markets were visited to see the fruit, vegetables, eggs, etc., and the Moorish market, with all kinds of live animals, birds, and vegetables unknown to us.

We took a carriage and drove over the neutral ground, then entered Spain, where we had to pass through the Customs House, and then enter the little town of San Felipe, where the bull fights take place, which are much patronised by the English from Gibraltar. These exhibitions take place on Sundays only. We returned to Gib., and then drove to Europa Point, through the gardens, which were profuse in all kinds of tropical flowers and plants. The tamarisk trees and palms, with undergrowth of prickly pears, gave one the idea of being much farther from home. Everything looked fresh, for there had been a heavy rain the previous Sunday, six and a half inches having fallen in twenty-four hours. We returned to the Ophir in time for dinner, and expected to sail at once, but found a notice posted that we should sail at 10 the next morning.

On inquiry, it transpired that the ship was again in the hands of workpeople, and the engines, including the boilers, which were empty, were undergoing another " overhaul " also. After dinner water barges came alongside and commenced pumping, which operation was continued all the night. November 12th, Thursday. — A splendid morning with fine sunrise, giving much colour to Gib., with its brown rocks and varied vegetation, affording a temptation to an artist to ply his pencil, but for a notice on the ship that " any person sketching, drawing, or photographing is liable to be imprisoned for three months." The sailing notice is posted : " Will sail at i p.m." No one seems to object, for it gives time to get the " house in order " ; much confusion being still our lot, and the poor stewards have a hard time, because some folk complain, and say they have paid for order and attention, and object to the inconvenience.

We learnt " self-help," and helped ourselves. Soon after breakfast it began to rain, so few people went ashore, most of them being engaged in arranging cabins, etc. ; i o'clock came, and then it was announced we should sail at 6 o'clock. At 7 we sailed, and saw the last of British soil for some time. It was a glorious night, with a cloudless sky and bright moonlight. November ilth, Friday. — Bright sunshine, warm as summer, the ship sailing well, the band playing on deck, where all sorts of amusements are going on. In the after noon all boxes were brought on deck, and it was amusing to see the eager dips made for hidden treasures, or wants which had arisen. Every one seems to have found a new life, and music of all sorts is to be heard from different parts of the ship. We have had a really idle day basking in the sun, and are going to bed tired.

November 14th, Saturday. — Another splendid day, the sun rising out of the sea. The passengers, dressed in light summer costumes, are walking about without head covers. The sea is smooth, and the ship so steady as to render locomotion as easy as strolling in the street. There has been an auction sale of tickets for the run of the ship, and this will now take place each day. Tickets in numbers of fifties, say from 350 to 400, are sold to any one for one shilling each, and afterwards resold by auction for whatever can be got. Anything above the first price is divided between the purchaser and the pool. This is repeated three times, and takes about an hour. At 12.30 the run comes out. To-day it was 367 miles in 24 hours, and 365 tickets won over £5. To-night a " full-dress ball " is announced, and, from the discussion going on, there promises to be a good muster.

A great improvement in the arrangements is gradually taking place, and they will soon be perfect. November i^th, Sunday. — The weather continues everything that could be wished, and the ship sails well. We have had the pleasure of again sailing into the Bay of Napies, where we cast anchor at 2.30. There was the greatest excitement. Hundreds of boats surround the ship with musicians, and divers who dive for and after coppers thrown into the water. All kinds of things were offered for sale. The letters have just come, and every one is anxious to get his own — a regular scramble. Sailing orders : " Remain here until Tuesday." We did not go ashore, there being plenty of amusement in the ship, where we remained on deck till very late. The full moon made Naples look charming. The second batch of letters and papers arrived about ten.

Some had to be answered by this mail, hence a late night. November 16th, Monday. — A fine morning. Breakfast at 8 o'clock, which enabled us to land and start early. Some went to Capri, others to the Museum and Pompeii. We — myself and wife — seemed to be the only two who were bent upon going to Baiæ. After some trouble we found a good horse and a nice carriage, with a driver who could speak English a little, and which added much to our pleasure. He was a most respectable man, a rani avis in Naples. Our route was along the Chiaia, then to Virgil's tomb, over the Hill of Posilipo to Pozzuoli, Salfatara Amphitheatre, Temple of Serapis, Caligula's Bridge, Armstrong's Works, Cicero's Villa, Monte Nurro, Lake Fusaro (devoted to the culture of oysters), Castle of Baiæ, Temples of Venus, Mercury, Diana, Julius Cæsar's Palace, Nero's Palace, Baths, etc., Sybil's Cave, or Grotto Cavern, wherein is the river Styx, over which Charon will ferry you to look into the infernal regions.

It is a dreadful place, curious it is true, but we were glad to get out of it again. This is on the banks of Lake d'Agnano, which is perfectly round. It is the mouth of an extinct volcano over three miles in circumference. We lunched at Fusaro, and were offered oysters from the lake. After a most enjoyable day we arrived at our floating hotel just in time for dinner, well tired. The round we went is about thirty miles. November 17th, Tuesday. — Another grand day. We did not go ashore, being tired from our trip yesterday. We had, however, plenty of amusement on board, for the Ophir was quite a fair, with numbers of " swell " visitors from Naples. The amount of bargaining on deck was some thing wonderful until the order was given to clear the ship, when the pedlars took to boats, and with long bamboo canes, with bags at the ends to receive the money, handed up various articles.

This continued for two hours, during which much business was done. Then there were musicians, flower-sellers, fruit vendors, who accepted a few pence in exchange for large "baskets" filled with pears, grapes, apples, and figs ; divers who called out in the loudest tones,. " Munny, munny, gentlemen ! " which, being thrown to them in the sea, they dived and brought up ; we estimated one man had thirty pennies in his mouth besides silver. " Sorrento puzzle-boxes " had been freely sold during the day at 8j*. ; over the ship's side we offered 2s. 6d., and just as we were sailing the purchase was concluded at y. A large number of workmen left us here, and we sailed at 4.30, bidding adieu to Naples with some regret after so much enjoyment. We passed Capri in an hour, and had a pleasant evening listening to various adventures.

The moonlight was again very bright, the sea perfectly smooth, the various amusements on board went on as usual, and were, we understand, kept up until a late — or early — hour. Of course we elderly people retired somewhat early. November 18th, Wednesday. — A most magnificent day, a cloudless sky, and a smooth blue sea. The sun was very hot, and compelled retirement to the shade. We passed through the Straits of Messina about 5 o'clock in the morning ; Etna was visible at daylight, as also was the Italian coast. The ship has sailed well. In the 19! hours up to 12 o'clock noon we had run 283 miles. An amusement committee has been formed, and a collection made amounting, in a couple of hours, to over £50. The auction sale of the run took place as usual, and this afternoon a cricket match, which proved a great attraction, as there was some good play.

The Captain is a first-rate bat. A company of acrobats, who are going to perform in Australia, gave a rehearsal, to keep their muscles in practice. It was great fun for all the youngsters and steerage people. This evening there is to be a full-dress ball, and another on Saturday — a tax on the wardrobes of the ladies. November igth, Thursday. — Another fine and cloudless day, with hot sun. We sailed past the island of Crete with its snow-capped mountains, and had some squalls of cold wind. When the dinner table was set, one of these squalls made the ship pitch and toss, transferring the cloth with etceteras to the floor, resulting in more pieces being picked up than went down. The table had to be reset with the " Fiddles," our first experience in this voyage of these useful appliances. The cricket and auction sale took place as usual, and 350 won as the number of miles sailed.

The drawing-room amusements have had to be sus pended, for some of the ladies — owing to various sensations — have thought it advisable to retire. This afternoon we had a " fire drill *' at 4 o'clock. There was much excitement, for the men went through a regular training. All the bulkhead doors were closed, and the ship was divided into five separate parts for an hour. November 20th, Friday. — Fine morning, strong wind, and a rough sea. We have had a bad night with a heavy beam sea, which has rolled this great mass ofa ship like a pill-box, and prevented most people from sleeping, for it was not possible to lie still in the berths, and our boxes took short journeys on their own account. Everything was a little mixed this morning. Fortunately neither of us was ill, and both appeared at breakfast.

There has been a con siderable breakage of pots and glasses, and a corresponding amount of squaring-up. It has been a fine day with a good breeze, and just sufficient sea not to be uncomfortable, yet affording ample excuse for idleness. About 6 o'clock we were evidently opposite the mouth of the Nile, for the water be came muddy and discoloured. This continued until about 9, when we sailed into Port Said, and entered the Suez Canal. Great preparations had been made for coaling. The carpets were either taken up or covered, and everything closed. When we stopped opposite the only street it was a most remarkable sight. Of course the usual small boats and merchants came alongside, and also six or eight barges on each side of the ship, containing over a hundred tons of coal each. At either end of each barge was a large fire to give light, and on the coals were standing; hordes of men, — Coolies, Arabs, Niggers, and people of all southern nations, — with bare feet and legs.

They wore a kind of cloak, which they cast off when working. Now all these men had throats which they used to the fullest extent of their power in singing, or rather shouting a ditty ; such was the noise you could not hear people speak. If the gates of the infernal regions had been opened you could not have seen a more remarkable sight, or heard a greater confusion of tongues. The run was 325 miles. We are now 3,429 miles from London, and 14 days from the date of sailing. November 21st, Saturday. — Rose early, and had the pleasure of seeing a gorgeous sunrise. The barges had just cast off after giving us 1,500 tons of coal, and a quantity of fresh water. We started at once, and got about five miles along the Canal, when we were stopped at a siding to let two steamers pass. Being a splendid morning, there was a good opportunity for comprehending what the Desert of Arabia means.

Whichever way you look the sand meets the horizon, with thousands of birds, looking like white patches. To the east appears a " mirage," as of islands and ships, with an occasional Arab in a picturesque costume walking by the side of the Canal. We passed a part of the Canal about noon where some important works were going on. The number of Arabs with bare legs, and wearing loose coats of blue, red, and other colours, contrasting with the sombre camels, of which it was estimated there were seventy or eighty carrying stones in panniers, was a truly wonderful sight for those who have never been in the East. Along the side of the Canal is an iron pipe, which conveys Nile water from Ismailia to Port Said. We are now drinking Nile water, which looks grey and thick, and not very tempting. After a very pleasant day, with the brightest of sunshine and a refreshing cool breeze, we passed many objects of interest, such as houseboats, where the French, who are engaged in many duties here, live.

They seem to have one or two females and a dog, and in the stern a hen-coop. Also there are the stations, which consist of a nice house and offices, with a flagstaff on which signals are exhibited. The fresh-water Canal turns away to the west, and goes along the Lake of Goshen. We had a splendid sunset, which gave great colour, and produced fine effects on the Lake of Timsah. We are now steaming at a slow pace to Suez, where this will be posted. The opportunity of seeing everything is great, for the ship only goes about four miles an hour, and is one of the largest which has ever passed through the Canal. We arc now sailing by electric light, both sides of the Canal being perfectly illuminated. After leaving Ismailia, where we remained only an hour, the electric projectors were again used, casting a light on both sides of the Canal.

November 22nd, Sunday. — We arrived at Suez at 3.30 A.M., and left at 4.30 A.M. ; dispatched letters and two passengers. A splendid early morning, warm, with a Voyage lo Ceylon. 15 cloudless sky. Sailing down the Gulf of Suez, which has fine mountains both on the Egyptian and Arabian sides, it was a wonderful picture, with lights on the mountains and no shades, and sand or murrain at the bases looking red-hot. At 1 1 we had service according to the Church of England on the deck, sitting without hats, the congrega tion in the lightest clothing. The parson reminded us of our being in view of Mount Sinai, and read a chapter from Exodus, etc. It was most impressive. As usual, other services were held in different parts of the ship. In the evening there was the most wonderful sunset, the colours being magnificent and extraordinary because the sky was cloudless.

This was quickly followed by the brightest starlight, there being no twilight, and the stars were visible and bright in the horizon like so many lighthouses. November 2yd, Monday. — We are now in the Red Sea, with bright, hot sunshine. All the boxes were brought on deck. Some appeared in very light get ups at the sports, which took place at 2 o'clock ; there was great fun, most of the people enjoyed seeing the young folks exhibiting their powers. About 4 o'clock a most wonder ful display of lightning commenced, dancing round the ship almost continually ; the stars were bright, and the illuminations displayed electric snakes running about the heavens. This continued all night. There was a dance on deck, the ladies appearing in elegant costumes. Run of the ship 362 miles. November 24th, Tuesday. — It is very hot.

The lightning still continues. About noon it began to thunder, but not in a gentle way. Then tropical rain came down in sheets, so much so that the ship was put to " dead slow," and the siren gave forth its howls and yells to warn any approaching ships, as it was impossible to see. About sunset the weather cleared up after twenty-four hours of lightning. Run of the ship 355 miles. Life on the Ophir — rise at 6.15, English time about 4 o'clock. Have a sea-bath, then rest half an hour. Tea served at 7 (don't have any). Then dress, and, to quote Yorkshire, " have a side up." A walk on deck until breakfast, at 8.30. After breakfast sit in deck chair for a couple of hours, or wander about talking to people ; then an hour's work. Lunch at 12.30. Deck chairs again with " a short snooze." Sports or some sort of amusement at 2.30 until 4, when the great meal of the day commences, " afternoon tea," which lasts about an hour.

Another walk, then dress for dinner. Now these meals are marvels when we consider that most of the things have been brought from London. The food is good, and there is plenty of variety, all being well cooked ; but there is not much to be said for the drink in the form of water. We took a supply in at Naples, which was fairly good, and again at Port Said, " the sweet waters of the Nile," which is brought down in the iron pipes from Ismailia, and resembles very much suds made with brown soap. Our cabin bottle looks like a stone one, being quite opaque ; this makes us appreciate apollinaris and ginger-ale. November 25th, Wednesday. — The weather is brighter this morning and rather hot, over 900 in the shade. We are fairly in the tropics, but have not yet put on thin clothing ; at the same time, most people complain of the heat.

After luncheon we came in sight of land, and then sailed through the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, out of the Red Sea, having a head wind all the way through. The ventila tion on board was well kept up. We are now in the Gulf of Arabia, with fine weather and a calm sea. The sports went on as usual this afternoon, and were great fun. November 26th, Thursday. — We are sailing down the Gulf of Arabia, with a strong wind, which keeps the ship cool. We passed the large island of Tokotra, and the small ones — The Brothers— all appeared burnt up, without a vestige of vegetable life. Amusements as usual. Sailed 321 miles. November 27th, Friday. — Another splendid day ; very hot. Amusements as usual, with the additional attraction of a cricket match between females on board. Sailed 325 miles. November 28th, Saturday. — Lat. 10° 52' N, long. 59° 18'.

Arabian Sea. Hot, with bright sky and smooth sea. There is great excitement among the ladies in preparing for a grand fancy dress ball. We have a shop on board, wherein are sold all kinds of things, from Eno's fruit salt to fancy work, — a sort of combination of Marshall and Snelgrove's ; Nathan & Co., the costumiers ; Trufit's, the hairdresser ; with a little intermixture of deck shoes, fancy sweets, etc. Dinner was ordered for 5.45, as the ball which was to commence at 8 was held on the upper deck, affording ample space for dancing with a crush. The decorations with flags, etc., were most artistic ; the room was brilliantly illuminated with the electric light. The company as sembled about 8 o'clock in the drawing-room saloon. Expressions of great surprise were made at the wonderful " get ups " of some of the characters pourtrayed, their elegance and costliness.