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A Lady's Visit to Manilla and Japan. By Anna D'A

Anna D'A · 1863 · Scanned text

58,535 words · about 4 h 6 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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About this book

Author
Anna D'A
Language
English
Published
1863
Length
58,535 words · about 4 h 6 min
Sections
26 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public Domain Mark 1.0

 

Contents (26)

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Front matter

A LADY'S VISIT TO MANILLA AND JAPAN. 'L'iie Bay and Part of the Town or Nagasaki A LADY'S VISIT I'll MANILLA AND JAPAN. A JAPANESE "TEA-HOUSE GIRL. I'.Y ANNA D ' A . LONDON: HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, SUCCESSORS TO HENRY C0LI5URN, 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1863. The right of Translation is reserved LONDON : FEINTED BY MACDONALD AND TUGWELL, BLESHEIM HOUSE. TO THEE, Wild HAST AIDED ME IN MY TOILS, AND SO KINDLY SMOOTHED EVERY DIFFICULT PATH AND RUGGED STEP. IS dedicated THIS LITTLE WORK BY THY LOVING AND FAITHFUL WIFE, ANNA.

Preface

. In launching my small craft on the wide sea of Literature, I must he permitted to prepare my readers, hy one or two prefatory remarks, for what they may expect on the distant voyage which, under my guidance, they are ahout to undertake. The vessel in which I invite them to accompany me, is not one of vast dimensions, fitted out for some great and important service, but a little bark, adapted only for a summer sea, in which I hope they may enjoy with me all the agremens of a pleasure sail, anc1 « while away a few hours in light, but, I trust, not un profitable amusement. To be more explicit — for which purpose I must drop the language of metaphor — no one need ex pect to find in these pages the results of scientific research, or tedious disquisitions on the ethnology

PREFACE.

. and early history of the country. My little work, which has no such ambitious aim, professes only to represent Japan and its people as they exist at the present moment. It contains an account of the various places which, during a cruise of some months in Japanese waters, I had the pleasure of visiting, with characteristic sketches of the pecu liar race inhabiting these distant islands, and amus ing anecdotes illustrative of their manners and customs. I have purposely avoided all allusion to political matters, not having sufficient confidence in the correctness of my own judgment to justify me in assuming the office of a public instructor. In Japan the arcana imperil are so fenced round, and guarded, by the mystery with which the jealous fears of the rulers invest them — the affairs of state are so cautiously, and I may even say covertly, conducted — that a foreigner, in the course of his intercourse with this interesting people, finds it impossible to glean more than the most vague and uncertain information.

Others, more able than I, have touched upon this subject, whether satisfac torily or not, you — the Great Public — know best. The frontispiece to this work is from a sketch taken on the spot by my husband, and finished by Mr. Benjamin Barker, of Bath. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Leave Singapore for Hong Kong — Life on Board — Arrive at Victoria — Ascend the Peak — Go to Manilla — Wretched Three Days' Voyage — Filthy Steamer — Manilla Bay — Custom- House — Hotel — A Drive to hear the Band — Fires — Landlady's Suggestions as to the Cause of them — Bigotry of the Inhabitants — Taxes — Description of the Town — Statue of the Queen — Origin of the Name of Luzon — Description of a Native Woman — Barracks and Prison — Uses of the Bamboo — Buffaloes very numerous — Mangoes — Chocolate ... 3

Chapter II

The Cathedral — Curious Pictures — Old Legend of Saint Christopher — Visit to the Cemetery— Tales — Cigar Manufactory — Description of Tagalo Women employed there — Museum — Academy for Native Artists — Cigarrillos — Igorrote — Our Excursion into the Interior — Description of a Casco — Laguna de Bayo — Binan — Hospitality of the Mestizos — Flying Foxes — Rice Fields — Los Banos — Lake of Makilign — Night at Calamba — Village of Tenauan — Cock Fight . . . CONTENTS. X

Chapter III

An Accident — Lonely Walk to Laguna de Taal— Perplexities — The Friend in Need— Sugar Factory — Night's Lodging — Tagalo Predilection for Semi-hatched Eggs— Sail on the Lake- Island of Taal — Description of Volcano — Village of Talassig — Ruins of a Church — Return to Shore — Journey back in a Buffalo Cart — Sleep at Tanauan — Arrive at Binan — Proceed Next Day to Manilla — Signor C. kindly removed all our Things from the Hotel, and wishes us to stay till we leave — Delightful Fortnight — Departure from Manilla . . 77

Chapter IV

The Happy Valley at Hong Kong — Go to Macao — "Breakers ahead " — Origin of the Name of Macao — Reason for the Fall of the Place — The Pagoda — A Woman trying her Fortune- Mode of doing so — Camoen's Garden — Monument of the Bard — Epitome of his Life 105

Chapter V

Forts — Ruins of the Jesuit Church and College — A Chinaman's Disappointment — Angling near the Green Island — Murder of Governor Amarals — Arrest of a Young English Missionary — Return to Hong Kong — Voyage to Shanghae . . 121

Chapter VI

Description of Shanghae— The European Settlements— Coolies carrying Parcels— Pigeon English — Chinese Anecdotes — Boats — Manner of Burying the Dead — The Troops — Attack on the North Gate— Chin-chilling the Ground — Mode of CONTENTS. XI Building— Wall of the City— Filthy Sights— Walk through Shanghae — Restaurants — Marriage Ceremonies — Joss Houses 133

Chapter VII

Chinese Women — Men — Long Tails — Punishment of the Cangue — Superstition — Flavour of Tea — Growth of the Plant — Remarks on Green Tea — Population of China, and Food of the Poorer Classes — Bird's-Nest Soup — Gelatinous Food — The Form of Salutation — Ceremony of Kow-Tow — Chinese Idea of Gepgraphy — The Emperor's Hint — The Tae-pings, or Rebels — Taking of Kahding— Cruelty of the Rebels— Palanquins — Sad Accident to a Young Officer — Chinese Conveyance — "Baby Towers" — Infanticide — Birth of a Daughter no Cause of Rejoicing ....... 159

Chapter VIII

Set Sail for Japan — Anecdotes on Board — Vessel becalmed — Weary Time — Cape Gotto in sight at last — Entrance to Nagasaki Harbour — Lovely Scenery — Pappenberg — Its Dismal XaJfi — Peculiar Sail— Slight Clothing of the Men — Description of Dress of Officials — The Hara Kari— Our Home- Flowers — Streets of Nagasaki— Visit to the Tea-Firing Establishment—Silk-Mercers — Lacquer Ware — Porcelain — Pic-nic to Nazumisima . . . . . . ■ 177

Chapter IX

General View of Nagasaki Harbour— The Iron Foundry— Temple —Priests — Their Dress — Japanese Curiosity — "Man's Tail" CONTENTS. — Japanese Women — Their Dress — Men's Mode of wearing Hair — Immorality — Visit to a Yacoonin's — Wife's Devotion — Japanese Ladies come to see us — Their Pocket-Handker chiefs — Articles of Domestic Use — A Family Meal — Ink Horn — Pillow — Overshoe— Straw Sandals, &c. — Japanese Mode of punishing those who offend Europeans — A Funeral Procession The Signal Hill — Excursion to Tookits . , . 199

Chapter X

Passage to Yokohama — " Ship no walkee " — AVe enter the Inland Sea — Beautiful Nights — Bay of Yeddo — Fusiyama — Town of Yokohama — Fires in the Native Part — Country about — Excursion to Kama-Kura and beyond — Ride — Our Footmen — Tattooing — Singular Temple — Story attached to it— Huge Bell — Difficulty in discovering Diebutzu — Found at last — Return to Kanagawa — Ladies' Hair-Dressing going on — Description of Implements used — Mirrors . . . 223

Chapter XI

Our Return to Yokohama — Salt Drying and Boiling — Weasels and Rats — Japanese Houses — Want of Chimney — Sliding Doors and Windows — Fire- Houses— Fans — Earthquakes — Japanese Accompaniments to a Gift — Kanagawa — The Norimons — Japanese mode of Announcing the Names of their Visitors — Our Disappointment — We Leave Yokohama — Bad Weather — Contretemps — Fortunate Escape in the Straits of Simonosaki — Straits of Herado — Arrival at Nagasaki — Reception there — Visit to a Merchant's House — Cool Request of his Wife — Yacoonin's Impression of his own Musical Talents Japanese Theatre — Kind Offer .... CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XII

Return to Shanghae — Voyage to Hong Kong — Typhoon — We put in at Amoy — Go Ashore there — Tame Chinese Tiger — Dismasted Ships entering the Port — Death of a Chinaman on Board — Singular Request of his Friends — Safe Arrival at Victoria — Typhoon there — Another Peep at Macao — We go to Canton — Pagodas — Bodies Floating down the Stream — Intense Heat — Joss-House — Singular Monument for an EngUsh Sailor — Illuminated Boats on the River — Return to Victoria — Feast of Lanterns — Curious Substitute for Machinery .........

Chapter I. Leave Singapore For Hong Kong Life On Board

— ARRIVE AT VICTORIA — ASCEND THE PEAK GO TO MANILLA — WRETCHED THREE DAYS' VOYAGE — FILTHY STEAMER — MANILLA BAY — CUS TOM-HOUSE — HOTEL A DRIVE TO HEAR THE BAND — FIRES — LANDLADY'S SUGGESTIONS AS TO THE CAUSE OF THEM — BIGOTRY OF THE INHABITANTS — TAXES — DESCRIPTION OF THE, TOWN— STATUE OF THE QUEEN ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF LUZON — DESCRIPTION OF A NATIVE WOMAN — BARRACKS AND PRISON — USES OF THE BAMBOO— BUFFALOES VERY NUMEROUS — MANGOES — CHOCOLATE. B

CHAPTER I.

March 2, Sunday, 1862.— We left Singapore for Hong Kong. Our boat, the Thunder, an opium clipper, commanded by an able captain, was a fast one, and for two days we cut through the great deep at a very quick rate. The passengers were all agreeable, and as the wife of the captain accompanied her husband, we spent many pleasant hours in her cheerful cabin on deck. Captain and Mrs. are real canny Scotch folk, and it was no fault of theirs if the passengers were not comfortable. We passed our time in the regular steam-boat fashion, eating, drinking, laughing, singing, and walking the same pre scribed limit each day, with the usual results at night, a sigh and a groan as we left the cool deck, where the night dews were falling fast, and b2 LIFE ON BOARD. turned into our close quarters below, to see, by the light of the oil lamp, the cockroaches cutting capers over our narrow couch, and diving under the pillow and into our shoes by way of con cealment.

For the latter articles these horrid in sects have a decided predilection, and it is by no means an uncommon occurrence to find the leather in great part eaten away over night. I always provide myself with a large stock of cam phor, which certainly has the effect in a great degree of banishing them, as they dislike the smell, and, after the first night or two, fly your cabin, as human beings would do a plague-stricken house. I must confess the Thunder had fewer cockroaches than most vessels in these warm regions; but even in her I, who have a singular aversion to these insects, was honoured by the sight of them on many occasions. Well, thus we sped, and on we went merrily and cheerily, the sun rising brightly and setting in all his eastern glory, till Tuesday morning, when a change came over the " spirit of our dreams."

The wind over night had risen, and the China sea, rarely a very tranquil one, now boiled as though Neptune had suddenly become furious, and, like a frantic steed, sought to unseat OFF THE LEMA ISLANDS. 5 its rider; for we tossed, rolled, and pitched, till every moveable article had changed its place over and over again, and the woe-begone faces of some of our compagnons de voyage contrasted sadly with the bright eyes and beaming smiles of the previous day. As I am in general a good sailor, I had leisure to observe and compassionate the miserable state of the others, and at the same time could philoso phize a little on the cause of their sufferings. After five days of this commotion, the wind began to abate and the sea to grow calmer. This you might perceive from a glance at the invalids, whose faces proved capital weather-glasses, for the corners of their mouths began to be drawn up and their heavy eye-lids to rise.

On Monday morning, about five, we caught sight of land, and about half-past six were just off the Lema Islands, which consist of a few barren and uninhabited rocks, abounding in caves and holes, the occasional retreat of pirates, numbers of whom infest these seas. Here we stayed for about eight hours, " laying to," our sails unfurled, but our engines dormant; waiting to give the agents in Hong Kong every advantage of the Calcutta news concerning the market price FISHING BOATS. of opium, for which purpose the purser had been despatched in a boat immediately on our stopping, the Thunder being a private boat, and only carrying a few passengers as a convenience. Of course we all rushed on deck to feast our eyes with a sight of something in the shape of land ; and though we found nothing very attractive in the bare peaks and rocks, one of which, rising in two long pillars from one base, goes by the name of " The Ass's Ears," yet we derived a certain degree of satisfaction from the view, and had a fresh topic for conversation.

At half-past two we. started anew, and passed through the Taitami Channel, meeting a number of fishing boats on our way. These are formed something in the shape of a Belgian sabot, turning up at each end. We very nearly ran down one in our rapid course. I was in Mrs. 's cabin at the time the " glidewife" was tempting her "gude-mon" with some delicious soup; for this was a busy day for Captain , who, when duty was in the way, never thought of meals, and would most likely have gone all day without one, had not his true helpmate and faithful companion been ever at hand to watch and to minister. HAZARDOUS POSITION OF ONE. 7 Captain had just finished and reached the cabin door, when he espied the hazardous position of the fishing craft, which had escaped notice before. Immediately giving orders to " stop," the men were rescued from their perilous position; and the boat passed so near our lee-bow, that the voice of the superior could be clearly distin guished, as he spoke in no mild terms to the awkward steersman, who took his scolding in a very philosophic manner, which I accounted for by the supposition that it required a more than ordinary matter to disturb the equanimity of a cool Chinaman.

We passed a number of small islands, all more or less barren and rocky. As we appproached the Island of Hong Kong we saw Stanley Bar racks, but quickly lost sight of them, as the Island of Lama, a long, uninhabited island, in the possession of the British, intercepted our view, leaving only the peaks of Hong Kong visible, amidst which that named Victoria stood conspicuous. Passing this, and leaving the Islands of Lantao, Chung, &c, to our left, we soon came in full view of the town of Hong Kong, with its tiers of streets and houses, many of the ARRIVAL AT HONG KONG. latter new, and some unfinished. I was agreeably surprised at the pleasing aspect the town pre sented, for I had heard much of its barren situation, but nothing of its beauty. It is situated at the foot of the highest peak, called Victoria Peak, and many of the country seats of the in fluential merchants are built quite in elevated positions, forming delightful retreats in the warm weather.

One of the most charming of these be longs to our kind host, Mr. R., a Portuguese gentleman, who, with his wife and family, gave us a most hospitable reception. He was the first who devised the idea of building high up on the rock, from which the governor bestowed upon him the appellation of the " Pioneer," as others have since followed his example. By five o'clock we landed, and I, entering one of the palanquins (my husband walking with our friend by the side), Avas quickly conveyed, by two stout-looking Chinamen, to our destination. These palanquins are entirely different from those in Calcutta. They consist of a chair, made of bamboo, with a species of awning or cover, and one in front to put down in case of rain. The whole is supported on two strong bamboo poles, which APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN. are brought near together at the extremities, allowing a space for the bearer's head, so that the two ends rest on each shoulder.

To enter one of these, the first Chinaman raises the two front portions of the poles, you dive your head below, and, when within the two, he lets it rest, and you take your seat. Like Malta, the streets of Hong Kong are, for the most part, a continual ascent and de scent — that is to say, all which conduct to those running in tiers up -the hill. The shops of ivory wares, &c, &c, are very conspicuous, and look most tempting. As we arrived in the cooler weather, we were easily able to mount the Peak, a pleasant little excursion, which we made on the Wednesday following — nothing to those who have trod the mountains of Switzerland or Savoy, who have ascended, on foot, to Montanvert, in Cha mouni, and, traversing the Mer de Glace, arrived at that beautiful oasis, in a desert of snow, called the " Jardin," or who have climbed the Pyramid in Egypt, and gazed from its summit on the vast plain of sand and the ugly Sphinx beneath, but, nevertheless, a pleasant little ex cursion.

It takes about an hour to ascend lei- THE HAPPY VALLEY. surely, and a little more than half that time to descend, for the road is admirably kept, and the view from the top amply rewards the exertion. The harbour of Hong Kong, with its numerous barques, brigs, steamers, and small boats, forms a pleasing sight ; and the governor's house, with the new pleasure-garden in front, looks very pretty. Behind the town, as you ascend, you can see, between an opening in the rocks, the race-ground, a space of land called the Happy Valley, apparently perfectly level, and kept in beautiful order. Near the summit is situated the Sanatorium, a hospital to which invalids, both civil and military, resort. On the top is the watch-house, or observatory, a round tower with a vane at the roof. The flag-staff is placed a few feet lower down, on which are hoisted the signals for each vessel making its way into port.

We returned by the other side, and thus caught a glimpse of the sea beyond the harbour; and here the view is most lovely, only requiring a little more verdure to make it en chanting. Unfortunately, but few trees grow here, on account of the winds ; and those which do manage to eke out a feeble existence, look A PLEASING SCENE. 11 stunted and weak, as though, could they speak, they would say, " What pleasure to us is life amid these barren rocks ? " The sun was nearly setting as we reached the edge of the cliff on which Mr. R's. house is situated, and as the water was calm and undisturbed, save for the ripple against the sides of the rock, the scene was truly grand, diversified as it was by so many rocky islands, some small, others large, and all possessing nu merous creeks and tiny bays, in the waters of which the overhanging rocks appeared beautifully reflected, the little white sails of the boats in the distance, seemingly without any boat beneath, looking like birds borne on by the slight move ment of the waters.

We left this pleasing scene, to return to one of commotion and bustle ; for we had to pack up and arrange our little matters in order to start for Manilla by the boat which was to leave next morning. So, bidding adieu to quiet and tranquillity, we once more set ourselves to work, and next morning, by half-past seven, were on board the steamship P , bound for Manilla. Here we found none of the Thunder comforts. The boat was manned by Spanish sailors, and WRETCHED THREE DAYS' VOYAGE. 12 was a kind of semi man-of-war. We found the officers very attentive and kind, but the vessel awfully dirty, and the food very greasy. We encountered very unpleasant weather, and spent a wretched time ; for our baby was sick as well as ourselves, and the China boy, whom we had engaged in preference to a woman — on hearing he was an excellent sailor — was literally useless.

To add to all our discomforts, the boat was a clumsily-built one, little suited to these seas, and tossed and rolled just as a tub would have done. Fortunately we made a pretty quick passage, and arrived an hour or two within three days. The heat during the last twenty four hours had become intense, and the air close and stifling. About half-past eight on Sunday we entered the little boat which was to convey us to shore, happy in the thought of speedily arriving there ; but, alas ! short-sighted mortals ! after a weary pull of an hour, we only reached the end of a long pier, which two men mounted, and then began towing us along. The boat was a neat, clean specimen of Manilla handicraft, being scooped out of one entire large trunk of teak wood, with a neatly-constructed awning of CUSTOM-HOUSE TROUBLES. matting, and a nice sort of frame-work for our feet to rest on, so that, in case the water came in, we could not get wet.

The oars were of the paddle species, with handles at the end like those of a spade. The men looked clean and hardy, with features very much of the Malay type. Arrived at the end of the pier, the men re entered the boat, and rowed us to the opposite side, where a custom-house officer entered. As we had but few things, we never dreamt of much detention, more especially as our pass port had been already examined by the officer who came on board for that purpose. So we patiently endured the trouble of waiting to take in this man, then rowing back to the other side, and disembarking all our luggage. But lo and behold ! it appeared we had not half done yet. The things had to be left while we pro ceeded to another part to get a pass for them — they alleging as an excuse that it was Sunday ; but I strongly suspect that to this suspicious government all days are alike for giving trouble to foreigners.

Well, finally, the things were passed, and weary with the heat and glare — for it was near A DRIVE TO THE CALCADA. eleven before all was arranged — we entered the hotel of Madame du Bosse, delighted with the prospect of rest and quietness. In the evening, we took a drive to the Calcada, whither numbers of carriages were whirling — the gay world of Manilla, decked out in colours bright, radiant, and numerous as those of the rainbow. Four native military bands had taken up their stations near each other when we arrived, and, at the moment our vehicle drew up, one was playing some sweet low air in a manner very well worthy of commendation. As one band ceased another commenced, so the inter vals between each melody were very short. Some ladies, I perceived, wore the mantilla, with its graceful folds falling over their shoulders, but these were few in number, for the generality wear neither bonnet nor hat for the evening promenade, but, like the Dutch ladies in Java, prefer thoroughly to enjoy the fresh air.

The Manilla ponies reminded us much of the Javanese. Like them they are very strong, but not of a large size, and run at a rapid rate, some of them having a most agreeable ambling trot. FIRES IN MANILLA. 15 En route we saw the ruins of several houses which had been destroyed by fire, and on speaking with our landlady, she informed us that this month (March) is proverbially known as the month for this scourge. On my asking the reason, she replied she knew not, but her own opinion was, that this being the grand festal month of the whole year, a number of the natives, male and female, endeavour to array themselves as finely as possible. Many, being too poor to afford the peiia, embroidered handkerchiefs, shirts, jewels, &c, &c, set fire to dwellings, or employ others to do so, in order that in the general confusion they may steal whatever valuables they can lay hands on.

A gentleman subsequently gave me another version of the cause of these incendiary proceedings. "Whenever," he observed, "these fires occur there is sure to be a quantity of bamboo on the hands of the wood-merchants, for which they can get little or nothing, owing to there being no demand. The houses are generally burnt to the ground, for, being constructed principally or entirely of bamboo and attap, it is difficult to arrest the progress of the flames. The day after the conflagration, the quantity of BIGOTRY OF THE PEOPLE. bamboo for which a merchant could only get twenty-five cents, is worth fully two dollars." Which of these two statements is to be regarded as the true explanation of the fact in question, I cannot say ; but all must agree that, as there is never a fire without a cause, there may be some probability in both of them.

The people in Manilla are awfully bigoted, more priest-ridden, if possible, than in Spain itself, and, consequently, far behind in every kind of industrial or intellectual pursuit. Influenced by the priests, they evince a marked dislike to anything in the shape of innovations. No Pro testant missionary is allowed to set foot in one of the Philippines, nor, if known, is a Protest ant Bible suffered to enter ; in proof of which, a gentleman told me he passed his through the custom-house by putting it under his hat. About three years ago a miraculous perform ance took place at one of the churches. The wounds of a figure representing our Saviour be gan to run copiously with blood ; and very soon the credulous inhabitants crowded in dense masses to the church where the spectacle was exhibiting, to witness the miracle.

Money ROMAN CATHOLIC CEREMONIES. 17 poured in from all sides, and the joy of the officiating priests at the success of their scheme was extreme — when " a change came over the spirit of their dream." The more enlightened, who saw through this wicked subterfuge, determined to expose the deception. The image was accordingly examined, and found to contain tubes, through wliich the red liquid was pumped up from below. Almost all the inhabitants of the island of Luzon are Christian, or, at least, nominally so ; and in nearly every village is a church, with one or two officiating priests, whose influence is extraordinarily great. A Roman Catholic priest, in his work called " Recollections of a Journey through Tartary, Thibet, and China," in alluding to the conversion of the natives, says: " It seems to us that the beauty of the Roman Catholic ceremonies must act powerfully on a people so fond of all that relates to external worship." * A plain admission of the influence, on the minds of a superstitious people, of the numerous images and extravagantly gaudy processions, &c, &c, Translation of Mons. Hue's work.

C TAXATION. by which the Roman Catholics so powerfully im press the imaginations of the ignorant ; while our simpler and purer forms often fail, through that very simplicity which is their greatest beauty, in rousing their devotion — reminding one of the narrow way, which has no gaudy flowers to attract those drawn only by the imagination, and not through the heart. The heat in the Philippines is intense during the months of August, September, October, and November ; but during the rainy season the atmosphere is cool, the rain falling in torrents, though rarely sufficiently heavy to destroy the slight bamboo houses of the natives. All the inhabitants of the Philippines pay a tax to the Spanish Government, from the age of sixteen, if orphans, and twenty, should both parents be alive. This ceases entirely at sixty.

Each mes tizo, or half-caste, pays fifteen reals — about one dollar and a half — being about half-a-dollar more than every native ; whilst the poor Chinamen, of whom there are fully ten thousand in the whole of Luzon, are obliged to give up three dollars each. The latter seem universally disliked and laughed at. Though I do not admire many traits in a China man's character and disposition, I cannot but think LUZON. this most unjust, for they are a hardworking, industrious people, and very persevering ; emi grating to all European settlements in the East, and ekeing out an existence where many would starve, in every branch of trade completely super seding the natives, who are more inactive and less self-denying. This of course is prejudicial to the interest of the inhabitants, and therefore the Chinese in Java and Manilla are so hardly dealt with, and prove such unwelcome intruders.

As nearly all the inhabitants of Luzon are Christians, and but few of the Chinese, they find it very difficult to obtain wives — the Roman Catholic priests positively refusing to marry any Christian to an infidel ; and, as the Chinese women scarcely ever leave their own country, the consequence is that their lives are but too frequently frightfully immoral. There are about two thousand, in all, of the Philippine Islands, only five or six hundred of them being of any size or importance. Luzon, the largest, contains seventeen provinces, and has for its capital Manilla, situated on the Bay of Manilla, which is said to be thirty leagues in circumference. The island is about four hundred miles in length, and two hundred broad, being c MANILLA. narrower towards the south than the north. The position of Manilla is remarkably good, the sea on one side, and the river on the other, with ditches — well fortified on the land between.

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