A Glimpse at the Great Western Republic

Chapter I

Having obtained a few weeks' leave of absence. from His Excellency the Commander of the Forces in Canada, for the purpose of travelling in the United States of America, I started from Montreal on the evening of the 30th of September, 1850. I took a new route towards Niagara and the Western States of the Union, by proceeding in the American line of steamers, which navigate the southern shore of Lake Ontario, having already seen the northern shore when on my way from B A OLIMPSR AT 2 Toronto to Kingston, in a steamer of the British line. Before I started, I was frequently asked what was my intended tour ; I may, therefore, as well state what I proposed to effect, and the sequel will show how far I was enabled to carry these plans into execution. Although I had travelled much in other countries, yet I could form no just estimate, from my expe rience of Canada, what the United States of Ame rica really were like, and to what an extent of civilization the Western portion of this great nation had arrived ; and now that I am about to give some account of my wanderings, I trust I may impart something new to others of that which certainly was novel to myself — for I will confess myself to have been very ignorant of America and Americans, prior to my tour ; and my desire is to give a hint to the Mother Country of the wonders which her children are creating in the New.

My absence from Montreal was to be seven weeks, and I proposed, in the first instance, to travel about a thousand miles west, and to strike the Mississippi well to the northward, in the State of Iowa, to enjoy a few days' grouse shooting ; thence to travel about fifteen hundred miles down the Mississippi to New Orleans, visiting any places worthy of attention on the way ; passing through the Southern States, to Savannah, Charleston, and returning to Montreal through the most flourishing cities of the Union — Washington, Baltimore, Phila delphia, New York, and Boston. The entire distance I calculated would not be much less than five thousand miles, which, by the aid of steam on lake, river, and railroad, would, by due diligence, be accomplished within the given time. Bidding adieu to my family, I took my place in the cars to Lachine, distant from Montreal about eight miles ; there I arrived in about half an hour, and finding a fine steamer, called the "British Empire," awaiting her passengers, I obtained a ticket in the office as far as Buffalo, a distance of nearly four hundred miles.

The first portion of this journey was to be per formed against the rapid stream of the mighty St. Lawrence, which would take two night3 and one day to accomplish, the latter portion through Lake Ontario to the Niagara River, one day and one night more. A large, roomy cabin during the voyage was placed at my disposal, three substantial meals being provided daily, my setter as well as myself being fed and conveyed. For all this I paid but nine dollars, or 1/. 16s. sterling, which included every description of fee, to stewards, &c. ; a favourable contrast to the expensive travelling in our own little isle. It was a still, but very dark night, when we glided swiftly from the wharf at Lachine into Lake St. Francis. In one hour and a half we reached the Beauharnois Canal — one of the many magnificent works created under the auspices of the British Government, to connect the navigation of the Lower with the Upper Lakes and waters of the St. Lawrence, which otherwise would be rendered impassable, by reason of the rapids, which obstruct the navigation of this beautiful river.

The locks were so well managed that we scarcely had any detention, although we passed them during the night. The Beauharnois Canal is sixteen miles in length and one hundred feet wide ; upon it there are nine locks, all superbly executed in stone, each two hundred feet long by fifty-six feet wide. Steam-vessels are nowhere allowed to ply upon the canal at a faster rate than three and a half miles per hour, under a severe penalty, lest they should impair the banks ; which penalty is by no means nominal, but is invariably enforced, whenever an infringement of the law meets with detection. While I was yet snug in my berth we passed through Lake St. Louis, and entered the Cornwall Canal, equally a magnificent structure with the Beauharnois. It is only nine miles long, has seven locks, but, in other respects, is equal in its measurements to the former.

It is the fashion to imagine that Canada is far behind the United States in every description of interior improvement, but I am bappy to be enabled to bear witness that this is by no means the case, for in no part of the Union did I at any time observe any canal which could be compared with either of these, and certainly not with the Welland Canal, connecting Lake Erie with Lake Ontario. I am afraid, however, that I cannot flatter the worthy Canadians that it is owing to their enterprise that these works have been constructed; for had not the British Government, in her truly paternal character, invariably been ready to assist the enterprise of the colony, I should imagine that the old system, adopted during the French Govern ment, of transporting merchandize in bateaux, upon the backs of the hardy Voyageurs, over the inces sant Portages, which occur at the rugged banks of the streams in all parts of this colony, would yet be in practice.

At nine o'clock, on the most lovely morning that can be imagined, such as seldom falls to the lot of any one to see, save during the autumnal season in Canada, we emerged from the Cornwall Canal into the main stream at Dixon's Landing. The boundary line of the United States here joins the river, the right bank of the St. Lawrence now bearing allegiance to the star-spangled banner, under whose free, independent folds I proposed to wander for many weeks. We now passed Croyle Island ; it contains about eighteen hundred acres of land, apparently very fertile, and certainly very beautiful. It was pur chased by the present proprietor, about seven years since, for the sum of three thousand pounds. It appears extraordinary that such a lovely property could be obtained so cheaply ; one of the same size, equally well situated, and with as good soil, could scarcely be bought, in our own more crowded country, for less than sixty thousand pounds.

About twenty miles east of Ogdensburgh, we came to a beautifully situated village, on the American bank, called Waddington. Near it there is a handsome stone house, surrounded by an extensive park, within an island, which belongs to the family of the Ogdens. A fellow passenger told me that this was the original family who had first located the city of Ogdensburgh, to which we were fast approaching. He added, "I calculate that this family, with the exception of one, are pretty well used up — eating, drinking, and high living have nearly finished them." This reminds me of an anecdote I heard in the West, where the land per acre and champagne per bottle were sold at five shillings each. A gentleman, who was accustomed to indulge freely in the latter, was suddenly convinced of his folly, when finishing the last glass of his bottle, at hearing his uncle exclaim, — " There goes an acre of land, trees and all !"

The story goes on to say, that the wine so stuck in his throat that he never swallowed another glass. The pleasure of our journey this day was some what alloyed by an universalist preacher, who loudly descanted the whole forenoon upon the doctrine of charity towards all men, and forgiveness of injuries. But I was informed that he had divorced his first wife, and worried his second to death, — a plain demonstration how widely apart are precept and practice. A young collegian, like a second Gil Bias, entered loudly into disputation with him, which likewise caused us more inconvenience, as you will readily imagine that neither of them made any progress in convincing his opponent. Both the islands and the banks of the river were truly lovely; the contrasts in the varied hues of the autumnal foliage is scarcely to be understood by those who have not personally witnessed them.

There are tints, from the brightest green to Van dyke brown, while the scarlet foliage of the syca more gives, by its hectic tinge, a sure indication of consumption and speedy death ; and the red stalks of the buckwheat give an appearance of genial warmth to the face of a considerable portion of the country. At half-past one we arrived at Prescott, and then, crossing over, landed at Ogdensburgh. Al though Ogdensburgh is dignified by the name of a city, it is not even a very large town, but has every prospect of becoming so ere long. The railroad connecting it with Boston and the New England states, by Rouse's Point on Lake Champlain, has just been completed, and this has already had a considerable influence upon the town. The price of building lots now averages between five and six hundred dollars per acre, within half a mile of the city.

I walked a mile or two on the road towards Rome. This town is distant from Ogdensburgh about 120 miles, the road being planked all the way. I visited also the new cemetery, which is prettily situated on the borders of a small lake. I also walked some distance up the Oswegatchie River, from which I was informed an incredible quantity of sturgeon is taken during the spring. I made acquaintance with a Mr. Benedict, who was a great sportsman, and had killed many deer this season. He was anxious 1 should remain a few days, for the purpose of killing black duck, which he said abounded on a lake distant about five miles from the town. He assured me that I might kill from forty to fifty per day, adding, that there were now but few sportsmen in the country, — eight or nine of his friends who were very fond of shooting, having last year emigrated to California.

I, however, would not be tempted to loiter, but determined to make the best of my way to the prairie grounds in the far west. At six p.m. I embarked on board a fine steamer called the " Northerner," and sailed from the rail way wharf at eight. The upper saloon of this boat was 215 feet long, the entire length of the vessel being upwards of 250 feet. She could make up 300 separate berths for her first-class passengers. Although the night was exceedingly dark, we threaded our way in safety through the intricate channel of the thousand isles, calling at various landings by the way, and we arrived at Kingston on the following morning at seven o'clock. Here we remained for a brief period, during which time I walked through the town. The market-house and many other of the public buildings at Kingston are worthy of admiration ; all of them are built of well-cut limestone.

The harbour is defended by a series of Martello towers, composed also of lime stone. The fort is strong, and in a commanding position. Trade, however, does not appear in so flourishing a condition as in many other towns on Lake Ontario. Kingston owes its greatness princi pally to the war with the United States, and there fore, now that peace has so long been enjoyed in North America, it rather stands still, whilst others advance. The buildings of the Royal Navy, which are very considerable, are useless at the present day, and it must have cost a considerable sum to keep them in repair. The weather was rough and stormy when we steamed out into Lake Ontario ; but the size of the vessel and the power of her engines bid fair to overcome the elements. Of first-class passengers we had not a very large number, but there were many emigrants bound to the west.

We also had about a dozen horses of the Norman French breed, and I entered into conversation with the owner of one of them, a native of Michaelstown, county of Cork. He stated that he arrived in this country nineteen years since, and as usual without a cent ; but he was now owner of 130 acres of land in the rear of the town of Coburg, on the Canada side of Lake Ontario : this farm, which was under very partial cultivation, he had now sub-let for the small sum of thirty dollars per annum ; — that at present he resided at Rochester, in the state of New York, and hired himself out as a day labourer. This course he intended to pursue as long as his health and strength were good ; and eventually, with the money he should have saved, to retire upon and improve his own property. He told me that during a portion of the summer he was in the receipt of two dollars per day, in addition to his board, and that at no portion of the year did he make less than one dollar ; that these wages were invariably paid in hard cash ; that he was now returning from Montreal, where he had been upon a speculation which he had undertaken entirely on his own account ; and that from the proceeds of his savings he had paid one hundred and thirty dollars, besides twenty more for expenses for the stout, little, grey horse which he pointed out to me.

With him he intended to breed, — a lucrative business in the States ; whereas he mentioned that those of the English blood, although faster and stronger, yet were not so much esteemed as those of the Norman race, because the latter were more hardy, and would thrive well, and even get fat, where the former would starve. How unaccountable and singular a fact it is, that whereas the Irish in their own country are the most improvident race on the face of the globe, no sooner do they land in America than almost in all instances they appear to undergo a complete regeneration : they become thrifty, active, and industrious ; and in point of agricultural pursuits they even perhaps excel both the English and the Scotch, who sometimes fail by commencing upon too extensive a scale, or entering upon too neat and expensive a method of agriculture, scarcely suited to the primitive country in which they have taken up their abode, and find to their cost and utter mortification that none but rough farming will as yet pay, except in the immediate neighbourhood of some of the few large cities.

At half-past two we reached Sackets Harbour. This town did not appear as thriving as I had expected to have seen it. The harbour is celebrated as the scene of frequent contests between portions of the navies of Great Britain and the United States, on Lake Ontario, during the last war. The only evidence, however, now existing here of those trouble some times, was that of a gigantic shed, in which I was informed still reposed the hull of an eighty-gun ship. She was laid down by the Americans prior to the termination of the war, was never completed, and now remains the best emblem, in her present state, that can be produced of peace ! I had some conversation with a soldier whom I saw upon the wharf, of the 4th Regiment of the United States Army, respecting his service and con dition. He told me that he enlisted in 1848, a few weeks only prior to the termination of the Mexican war.

His term of enlistment was for five years, and his bounty was twenty-one dollars, a hundred and sixty acres of land (which by good fortune fell to him in his own state, that of Pennsylvania) were awarded to him as a war bounty, although he had never marched out of his own country. His land unfor tunately, to his present deep regret, he had immediately parted with, for a hundred and thirty dollars. His pay was seven dollars per month, in addition to his rations, and more clothes than he could possibly wear out ; that his duties were exceedingly light, and upon the whole the service was a very pleasant one. He however added that no soldier received any pension whatever on discharge, but that an old and deserving man was always employed in some military capacity, when too infirm for his duties, but few, if any, ever remained in the service for such a length of time.

I inquired if there were many deserters from our service in his regiment. He said there were only two in his company, but several in the regiment ; that in no one instance had any of them turned out worth anything. Where the pay of the soldier, and the wages of the labourer are so high, what inducements do they not hold out to the thoughtless young recruit to desert his fealty to his Queen and country?

Chapter II

At half-past eleven, on the morning of the second of October, we steamed out of Sackets Harbour; the weather, which had been lowering the early part of the forenoon, now bore a better appearance, but ere we had accomplished half the distance to Oswego, a violent gale arose from the west, exactly contrary to our course. I had been somewhat sceptical as to the height to which the waves of these lakes would rise during a storm, but I now had a good opportunity of judging for myself ; many of the passengers were much alarmed, and nearly the whole sick. The captain said that this was the most violent gale of wind the " Northerner" had as yet experienced. Long before dark we made the port of Oswego, the vessel behaving manfully in the storm, many trading vessels being equally fortunate with ourselves, in securing a safe position within its somewhat contracted harbour, before, what afterwards proved, a most tremendous night.

The light draught of water of these lake steamers, in addition to their great top hamper, such as a saloon with eighty or a hundred state cabins, together with their narrow width and great length, renders them by no means safe in a heavy sea. The cheap rate at which they carry passengers, as well as the competition on the lakes, would ruin the proprietors unless they could accommodate this large number comfortably, and as these gales of wind are but rare events, they "calculate" upon running the risk, the insurance covering all losses. Not knowing how long the vessel might be de tained, ere the weather would allow her to proceed to the westward, I here disembarked, taking the railroad cars soon afterwards to Syracuse, a distance of thirty-eight miles ; I arrived there the same night. At the hotel at Syracuse I met with a gentleman from the state of Pennsylvania, with whom I had an interesting conversation, relative to the repudiation of the debt of that state.

He maintained that it was nothing but a political movement, and that the proprietors of the stock never had any real intention of repudiating ; that it was absurd to imagine that so rich a state should even contem plate, in the sequel, disavowing its debts. He more over alleged that the Mississippi state debt had THK GREAT WKSTERN REPUBLIC. 17 been repudiated contrary to the wishes of the great landed proprietors of that state, who themselves were perfectly willing to be taxed, to pay both principal and interest, but the democratic majority over-ruled this procedure. Where, therefore, the national faith of a state rests upon no firmer basis than the fickle voice of a democratic majority, much dependence can scarcely be placed upon it by a capitalist, especially if he is resident in a distant country.

It is satisfactory, however, to see that the state bonds of Pennsylvania, which, at the time they were so severely com mented upon by Sydney Smith, fell to fifty-five, have now again risen to par, and that this state has now honourably acquitted herself of any dis honest intention, in the eyes of the whole world. Early on the following morning I got into the train to continue my journey to Buffalo. It was dark, the weather very stormy, which, in some measure, may account for the dreadful accident which subsequently occurred. This road, as is usually the case in the United States, had but one line of rails, with occasional slidings, to allow trains to pass one another. In consequence of the vast number of emigrants who travel, during the autumn, on this, the main c artery to the Western World, there were, at this season, an extra number of trains put on, and there fore a greater amount of danger from collisions.

We were approaching the station at Seneca Falls, at a moderate rate, when an engine, with its train, approached in a contrary direction, at full speed, and on the same line with ourselves. Fortunately for us both engineers, perceiving the danger, simul taneously reversed their engines, but so imminent was the risk we ran that the locomotives actually met and separated immediately. The concussion on our carriage was not great ; it, however, broke a part of the fore-railing, and cut off a man's finger who was standing on the platform. The engineer of the opposing engine grew frightened, and after having reversed his wheels, jumped off; both engine and train, at full speed, and now under no com mand, flew back, and the switch of a sliding, into which another train had entered, having been left open, it ran with all its force into this, an unfortu nate emigrants' train.

Great and awful was the crash, three of the carriages being smashed actually into one another, and dovetailed like the slides of a telescope. When I got up to the station, two poor fellows lay groaning in the greatest agony, and ere our departure we saw the lifeless remains of a third conveyed away upon an old door. This was the body of a fine, handsome young artisan, who but a few moments previously was in the pride of health and strength. How thankful then was I to Providence for the narrow escape we had had from this imminent peril ! We were delayed by this accident for nearly two hours, and did not arrive in Rochester until nearly eight o'clock in the morning. The railroad cars throughout the United States, with the exception of what we should call a sort of luggage van for emigrants, seldom or ever have more than one class.

These are built somewhat after the fashion of a huge omnibus. They are from forty to fifty feet long, a set of benches on either side, each allotted for two persons, with au avenue down the centre. The seats are generally comfortably stuffed, and covered with velveteen, their backs being made to revolve on a pivot, so that the passengers are enabled to place themselves either " vis-a-vis " or " dos-a-dos " to their next neighbours, at their own discretion. Immediately after starting from Rochester the ticket collector demanded the fare. I presented him with two bank-notes, or " bills " as they are invariably called in the States. After examining c one of them, he turned round to me and exclaimed, "You're a smart fellow, you are!" upon which I assured him that I did not in the least doubt that he also possessed the usual quickness of his coun trymen.

He again repeated his former expression, adding, " This won't come over me, this is a forged bill." Forged or not, I replied, I received it from the last ticket collector. Perceiving I was a stranger, he became more civil, but he refused the note ; I, of course, tendered him another, for I have long since found out that it is far less trouble to suffer the loss of a trifle, especially in a foreign land, than enter into a dispute. Some of the railway conductors are particularly coarse-minded fellows, and placed, as they imagine, in some authority, they occasionally assume the manners of petty tyrants. It is scarcely possible to describe, to a well-bred European, the style of contemptuous insolence with which they sometimes treat the passengers ; rare indeed is it if they vouchsafe an answer to any question.

Slavish civility I detest — good, honest independence I am the first to admire ; but insolence, especially to a stranger, is most unwelcome, and very galling to submit to : but when the traveller is subject to this sort of behaviour for weeks together it becomes most annoying. It is by far the greatest drawback to the pleasure of travelling in the United States ; a rough rail road, or an ill-appointed steamboat, is a light and trifling matter to endure, in comparison with this serious evil, which cannot, however, be properly understood until experienced. To give an instance of the very disagreeable way in which this inde pendence is displayed : In the civilest tone you can assume you ask a question, sometimes to a bar keeper, or the clerk of a steamboat, a railway con ductor, or may-be a very unwashed waiter ; after staring you in the face for a few seconds, he coolly turns away without vouchsafing any reply what ever ; certainly he caunot be accused of giving you an uncourteous answer, but, I ask, can anything be more unpleasant than independence of this description ?

Again, however, in justice to the more refined States in the north-eastern portion of the Union, I am ready to testify that the unpleasant behaviour to which I allude, iu no instance there occurred to me. At eleven o'clock we arrived at Buffalo, which appeared to me iu an extraordinary state of bustle ; the streets being crowded with persons of every description — the most numerous of which seemed to be emigrants, crowding the wharves, each with a large quantity of baggage — giving to the city an appearance as if it were besieged upon the land side, and the inhabitants, with their property, were escaping by water. Buffalo lies in a direct road to the west, and it is to the west to which the whole train of emigration, with rare exceptions, now tends. All, therefore, except those who have determined to settle in the northern part of Canada west, here congregate, not only those who have disembarked at New York, but also those who entered America through the port of Quebec ; and as, probably, there landed from Europe, this year, no less than four hundred thou sand emigrants — of which number, I should imagine, nine out of ten were bound for the far west — this circumstance will account for Buffalo assuming the appearance, during the summer and the autumn of the year, which I have described.

Buffalo is an astonishing city. In the year 1812, every house and store was burnt to the ground by the British. Now, this city contains about one hundred thousand inhabitants, it extends over many square miles of country, and would be considered a large city, equal in size to some European capitals. While speaking of Buffalo, I may here relate what we should consider, at home at least, a singular circumstance — that a daughter of the present Pre sident of the United States is still a teacher here, at an academy for young ladies. The gentleman who related to me this circumstance, assured me that the youug lady in question felt herself in a more honourable position when usefully employed in the successful attainment of her own independence, than surrounded by the statesmen of the republic, in the saloons of the palace of the President at Washington.

In this instance, it is no doubt the effect of genuine independence of character ; but I must attribute to a very different source — the pride of humility, the fact that a man who is desirous of being returned for a seat in the Legislature, is obliged in almost every State in the Union to canvass his electors on foot, and in humble attire, otherwise he would stand no chance of being returned as their representative. They would say that he considered himself above them, and did not understand their wants or feelings.

Chapter III

Being now so near the Falls of Niagara, I could not resist the temptation of paying it a third and perhaps a last visit, and enjoying a quiet day amongst its grand and stupendous scenery. I did not arrive there until after dark. That evening I had no more time than to take a hasty view by night of the Horse Shoe Fall from Goat Island. It was almost pitch dark. I was accompanied by an American gentleman ; and it required some caution to prevent our falling into the cataract. It being a starlight night, the scenery appeared more awfully graud when viewed under these circumstances than under any other that I had witnessed. I have, however, no intention of attempting a lengthy description of this world of waters ; few ought to do so, and fewer still will succeed, after what has emanated from the pen of that successful writer, Sir F. B. Head, in the "Emigrant."

I will add that the four grandest and most magnificent natural phenomena which it has been my lot to observe, have been, Mount Etna in a state of eruption, the glaciers of Switzerland, a thunderstorm in the Indian Ocean, aud the Falls of Niagara ; but in my opinion, the last is, by many degrees, the most sublime and awfully grand of all four. On a previous occasion I had taken the usual voyage in the " Maid of the Mist." This small steamer was constructed under the directions of a" spirited Yankee, solely for the purpose of proceeding under the Falls of Niagara ; and although she has now been in use for three or more seasons, no acci dent of a fatal character has as yet happened to her. I embarked a little above the New Suspension Bridge, which had been lately constructed below the Falls, and across the Niagara River.