Life in Tuscany ... With illustrations

Introduction

. At the present moment, when Italy is the central point of interest to the whole of Europe, no apology, it is hoped, will be necessary for the contribution of any information tending to throw a light upon the character, condition, and ideas of the people of that land. The classic and historical associations of Italy, its architectural remains, and the treasures of ancient and modern art contained in its churches, museums, and picture galleries, have been the theme of so many eloquent writers, that it would be superfluous, if not presumptuous, for any one not highly qualified by learning and research to treat of such subjects. Avoiding, therefore, topics to which, under any circumstances, no interest arising from novelty can now possibly attach, I venture to hope that these impressions of the aspects of " Life in Tuscany,"

INTRODUCTION.

. VIII derived from a ten months' sojourn in that country, will prove neither trite nor unacceptable. Tuscany, it is true, with barely two millions of inhabitants, constitutes but a small section of Italy, which counts a population of twenty-five millions; but the part which this petty State may enact, in the event of an insurrectionary movement throughout the land, will certainly exercise a powerful influ ence over the destinies of the Italian Peninsula. For Tuscany, small though it be, is far from an insignificant province of Italy, embracing as it does several cities and towns of considerable importance — Florence, Pisa, Sienna, Lucca, Leghorn, Pistoia, and Arezzo ; and thus it possesses a power and influence far beyond what it would derive from its limited population and extent of territory.

For cities, important and influential in every country, are especially so in Italy: in them are concen trated the entire wealth, intelligence, commercial enterprise, and intellectual activity of the provinces. Were it not for Milan and Venice, Lombardy would lie supine beneath the iron heel of Austria ; the destiny of the States of the Church depends on the will of Rome ; and Naples gives the law to that kingdom of which it is the metropolis. Every-

INTRODUCTION.

IX where in Italy cities dominate : it is only by their power that tyranny, domestic or foreign, can, or will be overthrown. In addition to the power and influence that Tus cany derives from its cities, Florence, indissolubly associated as it is with glorious recollections of past greatness, gives to the province of which it is the capital a distinguished position among other Italian States. Proud memories of the fame, the power, the riches and conquests of Florence in bygone times — of the great names which have shed lustre on its literature, arts, science, and arms — foster the bright hopes and lofty aspirations in which Italians indulge, of the future of their native land. Judging from the past as well as from present indications, Tuscany wTill not remain inert if a struggle for freedom should begin in Northern Italy.

Tlie people, united by a bond of common grievances proceeding from the same source, will join in the cry of " Down with the Austrians ; " and the first cannon shot from the fortress of Milan will be echoed from the ramparts of Florence. As unforeseen and sometimes trivial occurrences frequently give an unexpected turn to affairs, no prediction of the course and result of future events

INTRODUCTION.

. X can be reliedupon : still — as the liberal cause was lost, during the late revolution in Italy, mainly through democratic violence and want of unity of action — should the Italians now unite, as they seem disposed to do, and fight for their freedom under the banner of the King of Sardinia, hope may not unreason ably be entertained that the issue of the apparently impending struggle will be widely different from that of the last. Wise, indeed, it is for the people of a country which has long been oppressed, to renounce the idea of a form of government de manding for its due administration qualities to which oppression does not give birth — and wiselv will they act in seeking to acquire the power of self-government under the guidance of a consti tutional monarch. M. S. C. Craws ordsburn, March 23rd, 1849.

CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. Baths of Monte Catini . . . . 1 II. Viareggio . . . . 18 III. Lucca, and the Baths op Lucca. . .41 IV. A Pisan Carnival . . . 79 V. Florentine Scenes and Amusements . . 94 VI. Societt . . . . . . 114 VII. The Peasant . . . . . .151 Vni. Manners and Incidents . . . . 189 IX. Religion . . . . . .249 X COMPAGNIA DELLA MISERICORDIA . . . 280 XI. Galileo and Michael Angelo . . 299 XIL The Late Revolution . . . . ILLUSTRATIONS. to face Title. View op Florence Leaning Tower of Pisa Page

Chapter I. Baths Of Monte Catini

Little as Tuscany can compete with some of the small German States bordering on the Rhine in regard to variety and abundance of mineral waters, it yet possesses several medicinal springs that enjoy a high local reputation for their sanative properties. For those afflicted with rheumatic affections, the sulphureous Baths of Pozzolenti, adjoining the town of Leghorn, are considered beneficial. In the same locality also are the springs of Monte Nero, containing a large proportion of salts of magnesia, much frequented in the summer months, for drink ing merely. Near Pisa, the Baths of San Guiliano afford, or at least profess [to afford, a means of relief or cure for various ills that afflict suffering humanity. Tlie Baths of Lucca enjoy a still more distinguished and wide-spread reputation — a reputation, however, probably much enhanced by n their agreeableness, in point of scenery and shade, as a summer place of residence.

But of all the mineral waters of this part of Italy none rank so highly in popular estimation — either as regards internal or external application — as those of Monte Catini, a small watering-place, situated in the northern part of Tuscany. These springs, which are Crown property, bring in a considerable revenue to the State, from the large annual export of the waters that takes place to the principal cities of the Grand Duchy. On most occasions of trifling in disposition, the citizens, both rich and poor, of the Tuscan towns, instead of having recourse to doc tors' drugs, are wont to avail themselves of those which nature has compounded, and swallow huge draughts of Monte Catini water : which, however, as far as pleasantness of flavour is concerned, has little to boast of over the medicaments which load the shelves of the apothecary.

In point of beauty, the situation of the Baths of Monte Catini has much to recommend them. Placed on the verge of the rich Val Nievole, where the plain terminates abruptly in a range of well-wooded heights, the Baths offer on tlieir northern side a series of highly attractive views. Immediately above, perched like an eagle's nest on the very summit of the declivity, is seen the small town of Monte Catini, crowning the steep sides of the hill from which both it and the baths below derive their name. To the right and left, other hills, forming a portion of the same northern chain, with picturesquely-varied forms and outlines, enhance the attraction of the scene. But though the Baths offer some very charming views, these sink into insignificance in point of beauty compared with those which the sides or summits of the adjacent hills afford.

Ascending even a slight elevation in the vicinity, and looking southward, the eye wanders over a far-reaching, fertile plain. In proportion as the step ascends, so does the prospect gam in beauty and extent ; till from the summit of Monte Catini, or the contiguous heights, a view is gained which well repays the fatigue ancl toil the steep ascent involves. Below, gleaming in the bright light of an Italian sun, stretches out the rich vale of Nievole, blending in the distance with the still richer vales through which the Arno runs. Amidst fields teeming with the rich products of a fertile and well-cidtivated soil, amidst olives, mulberries, vines, and figs, gleam forth the numerous dwellings of the peasantry, interspersed with white, glistening villages and small country towns. Here and there rises up a chapel tower; here and there, too, amidst the sea of verdure, the country palace of a nobleman may be seen.

To the south and east a range of undulating hills, wearing the misty veil of distance, closes in the view ; to the west, towering above the calm waters of the small lake of Bientina, is seen a mountain, forming a B portion of the Pisan group, advancing boldly into the plain ; and to the north a chain of lofty hills— here separating into gentle slopes, there parting into steep ravines, crowned not unfrequently with villages and ruined towers, rising out of groves of chesnut and olive trees— combine to form a grand, imposing frame work for the rich and smiling scene. Like most parts of Tuscany, the whole country in the vicinity of the Baths of Monte Catini wears quite a garden-like aspect of cultivation, neatness, and care. Not a crooked fence, not a useless hedge, not a weed, not a waste patch of ground is visible any where.

Vines fastened to stakes, or trailing their graceful branches from tree to tree, form the !*_> ■* boundaries of fields and farms. In the early summer months a vast variety of wild-flowers are to be seen, many of wliich attain to the dignity of garden plants in England. Amidst the long, slender stalks of wheat, the beautiful purple gladiolis springs up abundantly, and is succeeded a little later in the year by a bright-coloured kind of lupin ; while at the same time the gumcistus may be seen on every side, showering its delicate white blossoms on the turf around. Towards the end of June the orano*e lily becomes a common ornament of the woods and fields ; whilst with July the crowning glories of Italy's floral riches appear in the sweet-scented clematis, and the still more fragrant and beautiful myrtle : both springing up under the sole care of a kindly nature; both doomed for the most part to bloom neglected and unseen, and to yield their per fume solely to the passing breeze.

Like the mineral waters of Germany, those of Monte Catini are, during the summer season, much used for bathing purposes. Hither, particularly during the months of July and August, flock from all parts of Tuscany a health or pleasure seeking crowd. Those who may have seen the Baths of Monte Catini during the winter, will, if subsequently visitants at the springs in the fashionable bathing months, find a wonderful difference in their aspect. Without shops, without trade, without the slightest pretension to anything that might be called a town, the Baths of Monte Catini may be considered to have, for at least nine months in the year, a merely nominal existence. Tlie whole permanent population of the place consists but of the keepers of a few lodging-houses and hotels. In the vast, palace-like Government structure, which absorbs within its capacious centre and wings the greatest portion of the migratory summer throng, spiders and ghosts may for a large portion of the year revel in silence and darkness unmolested.

The stranger, whom curiosity should at such a season allure to the spot, would find his meditations almost as secure from interruption from the world without, as if, like a hermit of the olden time, he inhabited a cell in some rocky wilderness. Beneath the long avenue of trees leading to the principal spring, he will hear no voice save that of the strolling mendicant, or the more agreeable accents of the peasant, who, with a courteous " felice giorno," passes on ; and to the few inhabitants of the locality or the neighbourhood he may chance to meet, he will find himself an object of curiosity and surprise, and a phenomenon as rare and extraordinary as that which might be presented by the sight of a swallow in the depth of the winter season. Even so late in the year as the month of May, when all Italian nature is thoroughly awake, when the fields are green with waving corn, the trees in leaf, the sky serene, the air warm, and the birds in full song, the Baths of Monte Catini still wore to my eye, on my arrival there, the aspect of a place asleep : not in a profound sleep, however, for symptoms of an approaching animation, a coming awakening, were beginning to be visible at this time.

Through the open doors of long-deserted houses, the voices of workmen were to be heard, as they painted here, and whitewashed there, in pre paration for the opening of the bathing season. Into long-darkened rooms sunlight and air were allowed to penetrate once again, whilst sweeping, dusting, and polishing of the furniture actively went on. The roads were cleaned, the walks were weeded, while garden-plots or pleasure-grounds were, in accord ance with the happy inspiration of some moment, re-arranged. An air of business was visible every where : I heard the note of preparation for the rising of the curtain on the scene. As the month rolled on, the signs of activity and of animation increased ; the very frogs, who had been exerting their voices pretty freely for some time previously, seemed to croak more loudly as June drew nigh: from every pool, and brook, and water-course, arose a clamour that, especially in the night-time, filled the air.

Out came the fire-flies as the day expired, ancl lit up the roads and lanes with tlieir bright, flashing lamps, vieing with the stars above in number and brilliancy. Thus May died out, and with the 1st of June Monte Catini may be said to take off its nightcap ; for the bathing season has then officially begun. But though the place has nominally entered on a new stage of existence, for three weeks at least it bears in its aspect the signs of its old drowsy, yawning, lethargic state; in spite of its newly arranged electric telegraph, its freshly-opened post office, ancl its grand grocer's shop, whose shelves display a goodly array of imposing canisters. Until after Midsummer-day, it is only drop by drop that the Baths of Monte Catini fill. With July, however, when the bathing mania in all parts of Tuscany sets in, the stream of population, which has been flowing so languidly during the preceding month towards the Baths, grows strong and deep ; to LIFE LN TUSCANY. the infinite satisfaction and advantage of the keepers of lodging-houses and hotels.

With the increase of visitors, beggars multiply in number : a numerous concourse of the blind, the halt, the maimed, the sick, and ragged, all ply their trade with zeal. Beneath the long avenue of overarching trees, a motley throng of promenaders may be seen in the cool morning and evening hours. Representatives of almost every class of Tuscan society may be dis tinguished there, from the cringeing beggar to the C_? O O t^C* haughty peer. The peasant woman, with her blue cotton dress and handkerchief covering her dark hair, looks with unconcealed curiosity and surprise at the many-flounced skirt and fashionable bonnet of the Florentine belle. The petty shopkeejier of the pro vincial town and the Leghorn merchant, with their wives and families ; the lawyer and Government official ; all swell the morning and evening concourse at the springs.

Long-robed ecclesiastics abound, from the humble country priest to the pompous prelate boasting the dignity of an archiepiscopal see. Car riages dash along the drive, at a rate that none but Italian coachmen ever think of forcing their horses to achieve. Itinerant shopkeepers set up their stalls, and solicit the passer-by with eager looks and words to buy their wares. From the tent erected by the migratory showman, there issues forth a troop of dancers and athletes, bedaubed with paint, bedecked with tinsel finery, and who, to the sound of drum and fife, parade about with the view of attracting spectators to performances announced in stupendous capital letters to be the most wonderful in the world. On every side, life, noise, and animation prevail. The butterfly that has just issued from its chrysalis affords an apt illustration of the changed aspect which the Baths of Monte Catini presented to my view, on my return there in July after a short absence.

The several mineral springs of Monte Catini vary somewhat in quality, but their elementary nature is much the same. All are saline: the Rinfresco slightly, the Tetuccio more, and the Fortuna most of all. In public estimation the Tetuccio ranks the first ; the visitors to this spring exceeding infinitely in amount the frequenters of the other two. The morning scene which the Tetuccio presents is a gay and animated one. Beneath an awning, covering a portion of a small garden whose roses and oleanders are in full bloom, may be seen a motley company, some standing, but the most part sitting, in groups of three or four, around small circular marble tables covered with glasses, destined to be repeatedly filled from the large reservoirs of tepid mineral water close at hand. Nauseous as is the beverage, it is wonderful to see the equanimity with which it is swallowed down ; not in one great draught, as inclination would prescribe, but sip by sip, in pursuance of the phy sician's command.

Old ancl young, all have their glasses before them, or in their hands, whilst ani mated conversations are carried on. New groups arrive, familiar faces depart ; there is a perpetual bowing of heads, an interminable shaking of hands. By nine o'clock, however, the morning drama is at an end, and the drinkers have disappeared : around the marble tables, covered with empty glasses, are seen circles of untenanted chairs, and the plash of falling water is the only sound that breaks upon the ear. The ordinary routine of existence at Monte Catini taxes the energies of both mind and body but in a slight degree : life seems to pass away in a kind of blissful indolence there. The " dolce far niente," so dear to an Italian heart, is indulged in to its full extent. The water-drinking business of the morning coming to an end, the company separate, and retire to their respective rooms, to drive away with a cup of coffee or a substantial meal the lingering flavour of the Tetuccio spring.

Between breakfast and the bathing time, which varies from eleven to one, a gentle doze is taken, either on bed or sofa, as conve nience or inclination may suggest. Dinner at two o'clock evokes signs of energy and animation on every side, which continue for an hour or an hour and a half, till, the great event of the day being concluded, the last glass of wine swallowed, the last apricot eaten, the company formally separate, with the polite wish, mutually expressed, that each may enjoy a sound repose : whereupon, ladies and gentlemen repair to their respective sleeping apartments, doff their outer garments, close the shutters, adjust their pillows, and enjoy two hours of blissful unconsciousness of all the trials and miseries of life, as attested by the loud nasal sounds that may be heard issuing from the darkened rooms.

Not more surely, however, does the light of morning arouse the lark to life and animation, than do the shades of evening put an end to the afternoon slumberer's dreams. The gentleman resumes his coat, and the lady makes her toilet afresh, as the sun sinks downward to the west, and between five and six o'clock the whole population of the Baths is out of doors again ; for the most part bending their steps onward towards the Rinfresco spring, where, after a glass or two being drank, they stroll about, some here, some there, exchanging salutations with their friends ; talk of the heat, repeat the latest news, and tell of the last wonderful cure that the waters of Monte Catini have performed. Carriages dash up and down beneath the avenue of trees ; and horses decked out with feathers and gay trappings are stimulated to a frantic speed.

With the vanishing twilight vanishes also the gay scene, and between ei«ht and nine, when the darkness of night comes on, the voice of the cicala, a huge species of locust, reigns supreme. Within doors, however, considerable animation prevails, for the hour of supper has arrived. That meal being ended, those of the company who do not feel themselves overpowered by the exertions of the day, repair to the casino, a suite of rooms assigned to the purposes of amusement. Here in a large apartment, brilliantly lit up, is to be found every evening a considerable assembly. Some talk, some play at cards, some read French or Italian newspapers ; others stake a paul in a game of chance, called the Tombola, a particular kind of lottery : of which species of amusement all Italians seem to be enthusiastically fond.

Music also generally lends its aid to make the hours pass by pleasantly and fleetly. In a nation gifted with such musical tastes as are the Italians, in every assemblage, amongst the upper and middle classes will certainly be found both gentlemen and ladies possessing no mean skill as vocal or instrumental per formers. Thus, at Monte Catini, scarcely an evening elapses without some black-moustached, dark-haired amateur sitting down at a fine pianoforte, with which the casino is furnished, to favour the company with a sonata ; and occasionally a philanthropic lady will minister to the general happiness by singing an opera air, for which act she is sure to be rewarded by a shower of "bravas" at the end. Dancing, too, occasionally affords to the juvenile portion of the assembly an amusement of a still more attractive kind ; rising in dignity from the impromptu waltz, suggested by the enlivening strains of some musical amateur, to the more solemn occasions when ladies and gentlemen in full ball dress perform their varied evolutions to the accompaniment of a full band.

But be it ball, or dance, or song, or cards, or simple talk that crowns the labours of the day, the company separate at an early hour, to pre pare, by several hours of sleep, for a repetition on the morrow of the exertions undergone the preceding day. Though a favourite resort of the inhabitants of Tuscany in general, the Baths of Monte Catini number few foreigners amongst their visitors. Amid the crowd of dark-eyed and dark-complexioned Ita lians that lounge along the walks or cluster at the springs, a ruddy English face, though so familiar a sight in the chief towns of Tuscany, is rarely to be seen. France and Germany contribute, also, but little more than England to swell the bathing crowd, which pours in so freely during the months of July and August, from Florence, Leghorn, Pisa, and the minor provincial Tuscan towns.

The absence of the Enghsh element, at least, is easily explained. To the native of the British Isles, bred up to activity of body and mind, the indolent, drowsy kind of life, wliich almost every rich or well-born Italian likes to lead, must ever be uncongenial. To an Italian, the one short, solitary, shady walk or drive, of which the Baths of Monte Catini can boast, is amply sufficient for eyery purpose of exercise. To lounge morning and evening under the one avenue of overarching trees, or to drive up and down, criticising new faces, remarking new dresses, seeing and greet ing acquaintances or friends, contents, as far as bodily exertion is concerned, the Italian's utmost desire. But it is not so with the English visitor ; who, even in amusement, craves exercise of a more varied, active kind. — a craving which the Baths of Monte Catini can hardly satisfy during the hot months of August or July, from the absolute want of agreeable shady walks, rides, or drives.

For rich, and indeed beautiful, as is much of the scenery in the vicinity of the Baths, the roads and walks are all too much exposed to the hot glare of a July or August sun, to admit of driving, riding, or walking being indulged in until the sun is down ; an hour too late to allow of pleasure excursions being made of any but the most limited description. For this reason, therefore, the Baths of Monte Catini are but in little favour with the numerous members of the active Anglo-Saxon race, who, either from motives of economy or of pleasure, have taken up their abode in Tuscany. Thoroughly Italian, therefore, is Monte Catini, and thoroughly Italian it will probably remain to the last hour of its existence, however much the migratory English may multiply in Italy. Though liberality is somewhat a rare attribute of the Government of the present Grand Duke of Tuscany, this quality is certainly displayed by it in so far as regards its acts in connection with the amusements of the summer visitors to this locality.

Freely may the stranger enter the brilliantly lit up casino ; freely may he join in the dance, or listen to the performance of a well-trained band; freely do the French and Italian papers lie at his command : the light music and journals being supplied at the cost of the " Administration," as the presiding power in this place is called. This liberality, how ever, is far from being of a disinterested character ; as, the greatest portion of Monte Catini being Crown property, the Grand Duke's revenues are materially augmented by there being a numerous resort of vi sitors to the springs. The liberality, therefore, displayed in providing amusements gratis for the guests may be compared to the sowing of a bushel of corn with the assured hopes of receiving back an abun dant harvest in return. That the policy thus pursued is a wise and profitable one there can be little doubt ; for Italians generally, both of the upper and middle classes, have fortunes of a very moderate amount: and probably many of those families who come to Monte Catini during the fashionable bathing season, have to economise in various ways for some time previously in order to provide the funds necessary for a summer trip.

To persons such as these — to persons, too, endowed by nature with a keen love of pleasure, as for the most part all Italians are — the offer of amusements free of cost will prove in itself a lure of a very effective kind to draw visitors to the baths, all sanitary considerations apart; but when, in addition, the highly reputed medical pro perties of the mineral waters are taken into account, it is no wonder that the place should overflow with visitors : to the benefit not only of the Grand Duke, whose huge hotel is amply filled, but to the profit also of the poor peasant of the neighbourhood, who lets his humble apartment for, to him, the hand some sum of threepence or fourpence a night. Short, however, is the harvest season, for either peasant or Grand Duke. Towards the end of August, the morning convivial gatherings at the Tetuccio spring dwindle down considerably in num bers; by the first week in September most of the company have departed, and the remainder are preparing to take to flight, and on the 15th, when the Baths are formally closed, the last lingering rem nants of the bathing crowd have left.

The crack of the vetturino's* whip is then no longer heard, and the drive echoes no more with the roll of carriageo wheels and the tramp of horses. The awning at the Tetuccio is taken down, the marble tables vanish from the scene, and the hotel-keeper sits down to count his gains, and compare the profits of the season just expired with those of former years. The careful mistress of the lodging-house, with a sigh at the transitoriness of sublunary joys, takes down the * Hack-driver. curtains of her untenanted beds, folds up her table covers and quilts, consigns her dels and china to the cupboard, and closes the window-shutters of her deserted rooms : all signs of life and animation disappear, and the Baths of Monte Catini once more lie buried in their habitual nine months' sleep. Long, however, before the close of the fashionable season I left the place, consequently my description of its autumnal aspect is derived, not from the results of personal observation, but from information afforded me by some of the very few permanent residents at the Baths.

In the height of their summer gaiety I went away, bearing with me many pleasant remem brances of the place — remembrances of quiet strolls, through fields and lanes, to humble dwellings, where I was aways a welcome guest — of soft summer nights, when the sparkling stars yielded in brilliancy to the fire-flies' flashing light — of rambles through groves, where the myrtle offered its beautiful white blossoms to my sight ; and, above all, remembrances to which I shall ever fondly turn, of courteous acts, kind wishes, and friendly looks and words. " We go to bed at five o'clock in the evening in the winter months, because it is cold, and we have nothing in the world to do," said the mistress of a small inn at Monte Catini to me ; ancl I thought that nothing could depict more forcibly than these simple words the utter stagnation of life prevailing during the winter months in that locality. c

Chapter II. Viaeeggio

About fifteen miles from Lucca there lies on the shores of the Mediterranean a small seaport town called Viareggio. Insignificant in point of size, almost destitute of trade, save that connected with the fishermen's pursuits, the existence it leads is, for the greatest part of the year, of the very quietest and most monotonous description. The surf breaks upon an almost untrodden strand; the sunset glow upon the magnificent mountains of Carrara, arrests no wandering stranger's admiring gaze ; and the tramp of horses' feet and the roll of carriage-wheels are almost unknown sounds in the streets of Viareggio. But it is not always thus ; for a short season of gaiety and animation annually chequers the ordi narily quiet life of the inhabitants of this locality. Soon as the bathing movement has fairly com menced in Tuscany, Viareggio, like the Baths of Monte Catini, emerges in the hot sun of summer like a butterfly from its chrysalis.