Piedmont and Italy, from the Alps to the Tiber, illustrated in a series of views taken on the spot. With a descriptive and historical narrative by D. Costello

Front matter

NOW READY. Part I., Price One Shilling, handsomely printed in demy quarto, WITH FOUR ENGRAVINGS ON STEEL, PIEDMONT AND ITALY, from t\}t §,l$s to t\t fiber ; A DESCRIPTIVE AND HISTORICAL NARRATIVE. 1*.V DUDLEY COSTELLO ILLUSTRATED BY A SERIES OF VIEWS TAKEN ON THE SPOT, PROSPECTUS. At the present moment, when, in addition to claims that can never lose their attraction, Italy has become the seat of a War, which must materially affect her political and social condition, and exercise, in all probability, an abiding influence over her destiny, it is thought that a work having for its object the illustration of the most remarkable sites that lie between the Alps and the Tiber, many of them inevitably the scenes of future contest, and all of them possessing a permanent interest, may not be unfavourably received by the public.

A country, every page of whose History is fraught with the most memorable recollections, every foot of whose soil is embellished by Nature or adorned by Man, lends itself, only too profusely, to the purposes of an undertaking like the present ; and the chief difficulty of those who bring it forward lies not in the paucity of materials, but in their superabundance, the stores from which they are enabled to illustrate the forthcoming publication greatly exceeding its necessities. Out of those stores, the productions of Artists of acknowledged celebrity, they have made such selections as will, when combined, form a series of upwards of one hundred and twenty subjects, including views of the most picturesque scenery, and of the most important cities and public edifices, ancient and modern, in Piedmont, Lombard,v, Tuscany, 'and the Roman States ; Portraits of the most distinguished personages identified with the impending struggle ; and carefully executed Maps of the ground trodden by the contending armies.

The work will comprise between Thirty and Forty Shilling Parts, each Part containing Four highly finished Steel Engravings, and Eight Pages of Descriptive Letter-press, the whole in its complete state forming Two handsome Quarto Volumes. The artistic department offers the names of Harding, Pyne, Bartlett, Brockedon, &c, &c, names which at once guarantee the quality of the drawings from which the engravings are made ; and the literary portion has been confided to Mr. Dudley Costello. JAMES S. VIRTUE, LONDON AND NEW YORK. Aberdeen .... 123}, Union Street. Belfast 18, Waring Street. Birmingham .... 31, Bennett's Hill. Bristol 26, Pritchard Street. Carlisle Londnn Road. PnnLlN 47J, Dawson Street. Dundee 2, High Street. Edinburgh .... 11, Lothian Street. Glasgow 30, Hope Street. Hull . . 14, Osbrirne Street.

Appendix

. Lausanne. Castle op Lausanne. Lake of Lausanne, above Pandex. Ouchy, the Port op Lausanne. Head op the Valley of Jaillon. Salabertrann. Descent of the Cervin. Mont Cervin, Valley op St. Nicholas. Mont Cervin, fbom the Plain op Brieul. Castle of Ivolre. Viu, and the Monte Mole. The Valley of Maglan, from Comblou. Boege. Pilli. St. Joire. MlGEVE. Col d'Haute Luce. St. Veran. Palons. La Chat.pe and Brunichard. SCHIRMECK. POUDAI.

Chapter I. The Approaches To Piedmont

The vast semicircle of mountains which extends from the Helvetian Alps on the north to the Apennines on the south, and includes the Pennine, the Graian, the Cottian, and the Maritime chains, offers a great variety of routes, all of them ahounding in beauty and sublimity, by which a descent may be made upon the valleys and plains of Piedmont. Of these, some are beaten tracks, — the high post-roads into Italy ; some indicate chiefly the dangerous march of armies, — to invade or liberate, according to the war-cry of their leaders ; and some are open only to the footsteps of the adventurous traveller. Were it intended that this work should illustrate alpine scenery alone, a pedestrian track might have been preferred to the routes that are generally followed ; but its object being to represent localities accessible, for the most part, to all, the more familiar ways have been chosen, to recall the associations of such as are already acquainted with them, or to prepare the untravelled for what they may expect.

We begin, then, by taking the principal approaches to Piedmont in the ordei of their succession from Switzerland to the Mediterranean. The first, making Lucerne the point of departure, is by the Valley of the Reuss and the St. Gothard ; the second, proceeding from the Lake of Geneva, ascends the Valley of the Rhone, and crosses the Simplon ; the third, also from the Lake of Geneva, and diverging from the Vallais, at Martigny, traverses the Great St. Bernard ; the fourth, winding through the long Valley of Savoy, reaches Piedmont by Mont Cenis ; the fifth passes by Urian-jon over Mont Genevre ; vol. t. B the sixth is by the Col di Tenda from Nice ; and the last, and least frequented, leads from Oneglia by the Apennine Pass of Ormea. The Little St. Bernard, rendered memorable by the passage of Hannibal, the Col de Viso, stained by many a bloody fight, and the Col d' Argentiere, whence Francis I. descended to win his spurs at Marignano, might be added to the pjecedirig list; but these passes have long ceased to afford the means of general communication, if, indeed, they ever adequately presented them.

We confine ourselves, therefore, in this place, to a description of the routes which we first enumerated. Until recently, the uninterrupted railway between Paris and Lucerne offered the readiest mode of arriving at the southern slopes of the Alps; but since the completion of the line from Culoz, on the French frontier, to St. Innocent, in Savoy, they may be reached much sooner by Mont Cenis. Even now, however, the difference in* time is only A few hours, and the choice between the two routes depends upon which part of Piedmont it may be desirable to enter. If Turin be riotthe immediate object, then the line across the centre of Switzerland will be preferred," as -offering scenery of a more varied, if not of a grander, character. It his been' the fashion to -deery the Pass of the St. Gothard, perhaps because of its accessibility; but : it would be difficult to find a highway possessing more of the elements of the picturesque, andhe who follows it for the first time must be fastidious Jto excess if his mind be not filled with the images it presents. 1 "The view from the quay at Lucerne, in front of the Schweitzer Hof, with the oft-trodden Righi on the left, gloomy Pilatus on the right, and in the extreme distance the snowy peaks of the Canton of Uri, fitly prepares the expectant traveller for the magnificent scenery which awaits him as he climbs to the St. Gothard.

As the steamer' which conveys him to Pliielen advances across the lake, the Alps of the Oberland, glittering in the sun and stretching from the Wetterhorn to the Jungfrau,- become visible above that branch of Lucerne's sinuous waters which reaches towards Sarnen, and bathes the feet of Pilatus. This lofty chain glides a'wayas if bya dioramic movement, and, hemmed in by darkly-wooded heights, at whose base the meadows are bright with emerald verdure, the vessel sweeps along, steering from shore to shore — now touching at villages embosomed in groves of walnut-trees— now lost, as -it seems, in waters that have no outlet — now shooting past far-advancing promontories, beyond which a new lake is revealed, crowned by tnonritains of the noblest ferrh, until that moment hidden from the view. Beauty of "seenery is here under an* aspect which it is almost vain to look for elsewhere ; nature, indeed, is so prodigal in her variety, that she confers an especial character • ■ Lldeii ) on every spot which her hand adorns; and he who has traversed lakes like those of Lucerne, of Thun, of Geneva, of Como, of Lugano, and of Orta, cannot fail to remember the separate charm with which each is invested.

But besides the romance of Nature, there is here the romance of History — in those records of Swiss liberty which are read at TelTs Chapel, and in the meadow of Griitli. Tell may be a myth, and the meeting of the midnight conspirators a mere picturesque tradition; but the memories awakened by their names, whatever their identical acts, keep alive that spirit of liberty in Switzerland, which, amid all her trials — and they have been many — no external force has ever quenched. With less of its romance, but with more of its reality, history fills the narrow Valley of the Reuss, close to whose torrent the* ascent of the St. Gothard is made. Here, in the last year of the last century, when revolutionary France waged war with two imperial foes, resounded the names of Massena and Suwarrow ; and here took place, between French and Austrian armies, encounters bloody in their issue and vehement in their national hate, as those which are now being renewed on the banks of the Ticino.

But what thought gives the traveller to scenes of strife, save when reminded of their occurrence by inscriptions like that of " Suwarrow Victor," on the rock that on the Italian side crowns the pass towards which his steps are bent ? The Alps are all around, the gorge of the valley yawns before him, and if other than picturesque ideas occupy his mind, they are those which are connected with the purpose of his journey. At Fliielen, where the steam-boat discharges its living cargo and instantly begins to take in a wooden one, to supply the fuel for the return voyage, the grand debat about a carriage for crossing the St. Gothard ensues. If the never-tiring, onward-wending diligence — whose inmates always awake to find that they have lost the finest scenery in the dark — be avoided, an answer must be given to one of the host of voituriers that crowd around the steam-boat passengers the moment they set foot in the Canton of Uri, at that point where the impetuo sity of the Reuss subsides amid the level marshes through which it enters the Lake of Lucerne.

Select which carriage you please, they are all under the same system of management : you announce your destination, and the driver of your choice, not forgetting to mention his own buono-mano, — afready you scent the air of Italy in its soft and resonant language, — places in your hand the card of the Heritiers Miiller, the proprietors of the " Hotel de TAigle,"— an Austrian, double-headed ; and on the reverse you find the " Tarif des chevaux, pour le passage du St. Got thard," which tariff is accompanied by a small but neatly engraved plan of the route, with the prices and distances marked as follows : — ■ b2 " For two horses. From Fliielen to Hospenthal, 30 francs; to Airolo, 60 francs; to Faido, 70 francs; to Bellinzona, 100 francs; to Magadino (on the Lago Maggiore), 115 francs; to Lugano, 125 francs; and, finally, to Como, 150 francs."

Safe from imposition, though unenlightened on the subject of changing carriages and drivers, which afterwards makes itself known, the traveller adjourns to the hotel, and receives a document or treaty, signed in his presence by one of the inheritors of the name of Miiller, the most satisfactory protocol of which is that which states that the money for the journey is not to be paid until the journey itself is ended. Meanwhile, the carriage has been packed — the unem ployed voituriers smile— Miiller, or his representative, respectfully bows an adieu — indeed, he says, " Bon voyage ! " the favoured driver mounts the box, tells you his name is Joseph or Jean, which you, skilled in languages, ambitiously render into Italian, and call him forthwith Giuseppe or Giovanni, appellations to which he shows no inclination to respond ; and then — the whole affair not having occupied ten minutes, for you have breakfasted on board the steamer — the wheels are set in motion, and along a road which presents but little inequabty, amongst orchards and fields of no great productiveness, through Altorf, where the statues on TelFs fountain convince the most incredulous of the truth of his famed exploit ; past Attinghausen, the birthplace of Walter Furst, one of the three liberators of Switzerland ; beneath the ruins of the castle of the same name, " whose baronial owners," we are told by Murray, "became extinct in 1357, when the last of his race was buried in his helmet and hauberk ;" and skirting the Reuss at Klus, where Gessleris stronghold, " The Restraint of Uri," once stopped the way, you stop to bait the horses at Amsteg, which is, literally, at the foot of the Pass of the St. Gothard.

At this point the river is for the first time crossed, and here let the ascent to Andermath be described in the poetical language of the author of " Endymion." " At Amsteg," says Longfellow, " the Kerstelenbach comes dashing down the Maderaner Thai from its snowy cradle overhead. The road is steep, and runs on zigzag terraces. The sides of the mountains are barren cliffs, and from their cloud capped summits, unheard amid the roar of the great torrent below, come streams of snow-white foam, leaping from rock to rock like the mountain chamois. As yon advance the scene grows wilder and more desolate. There is not a tree in sight — not a human habitation. Clouds, black as midnight, lower upon you from the ravines above ; and the mountain torrent beneath is but a sheet of foam, and sends up an incessant roar.

A sudden turn in the road brings you in sight of a lofty bridge, stepping from cliff to cliff with a single stride. A mighty cataract howls beneath it like an evil spirit, and fills the air with mist, and the mountain wind claps its hands, and shrieks through the narrow pass, ' Ha ! ha ! ' This is the Devil's Bridge ; it leads the traveller across the purple chasm, and through a mountain gallery into the broad, green, silent meadow of Andermath." Supposing the arrangement with the Heritiers Miiller to have been made, Hospenthal, in the vale of Urseren, a vale 2500 feet above the Lake of Lucerne, is the place where a welcome dinner and a not less welcome bed are found at the " Golden Lion." Untempted by the glacier of the Rhone, which, distant across the Furca only a five hours' journey on foot, expands " a frozen cataract, more than two thousand feet in height, and many miles broad at its base," and is shaped like " a glove, lying with the palm downwards, the fingers crooked and close together, — a gauntlet of ice thrown down in defiance of the sun," who, " year by year strives in vain to lift it from the ground on the point of his glittering spear ;"* resisting this temptation, and eager for the sun that ripens the grape and the fig beneath an Italian sky, the chilly village of Hospenthal is quitted by daybreak, the level meads of Urseren are exchanged for another ascent among scenery whose sterile and desolate character increases as the summit is neared.

Crossing the Reuss for the last time, at the small bridge which connects the Cantons of Uri and Tessin, and marking where its steel-blue waters issue at a short distance on the right of the road from the miniature Lake of Lucendro, a slight elevation is attained ; and then appear a succession of cold, black, icy reservoirs, the sources of the " madly flowing " Ticino, beside which the road winds, descending slightly, and the massive Hospice of St. Gothard, denoted in letters large and legible, proclaims that the ascent is accomplished. Though toiling at the base of beetling cliffs, and stunned by the roar of falling waters, no sense of danger has affected the traveller all the way upwards from Amsteg to Andermath; but it requires something like strong nerves in the uninitiated, who commence the descent on Italy, at the spot where the conquering Muscovite triumphantly carved his name.

Without doubt the road is admirable, the engineering perfect, the barriers of unimpeachable solidity, yet — quien sabe ? — the horses may fail to turn at the right moment as they thunder down the steep, the fragile carriage may part from its tethering, the helpless occupant of the vehicle may be whirled into measureless space ! If such apprehensive ideas arise, let the neophyte pass uncensured. Soon he scorns himself at having for a moment entertained them. Excited by the rapidity of the motion, he begins to enjoy each * Longfellow's "Endymion." break-neck turn, exultingly counts the perilous zigzags, and when he reaches the bottom is in a condition analogous to Oliver Twist, and very much disposed to ask for " more." For the present, however, he must rest content, and abandon himself to the enjoyment of beauty unalloyed, or unspiced, by any shade of terror.

That southern sun, for which he has been longing, now glows above him— luxuriant vegetation spreads beneath his feet— the mountain-slopes are richly wooded— bright streams reveal their silvery tracks— the climate is altogether changed ; but yet there are peaks in sight, whose snow-covered heights remind him that he is still a traveller in alpine regions. It is the Val Bedretto which thus wooingly courts his admira tion, a valley to which the following remarks of an eloquent and lamented writer* are strikingly applicable : — " In reflections on the unsnowed valleys of Switzerland, we shall find that the difference in their favour does not consist in the mere superiority of elevation in the heights, but of all the prodigal beauty which the greater elevations nurture: the number and the power of the fountains which gush out from them ; the groves that flash or lower from their sides, giving you the sense at once of a hundred thickets ; the steeps and turrets and acclivities of rocks, nurturing in their interstices breeze sown clumps and festoons of wild-flowers, each a fairy garden ; these spring and cluster and accumulate, in proportion as the mountain side which nourishes them expands.

Experience will show, that so far from its being true that, in nature, sublimity and beauty are commonly divorced, that the first is always made up of the last, the nobler the outline of the mountain, the more various and exquisite are the details of loveliness which fill it." Though the scene is actually in Switzerland, and more than a day's journey remains before its confines are past, the impression is all of Italy. The first town on the descent has an Italian name, and Italian are the habits and language of all who dwell there. This place is Airolo, and at the post-house the terms of the treaty with the Heritiers Miiller undergo a modification : the carriage and the driver are changed, but the protocol with regard to payment — save only the buono mano — remains in force. The treaty itself, however, is always surrendered for inspection at every change, and, found to be quite en regie, is respectfully returned by the post-master, to be preserved, if you please, as a family record to the end of time, or of travelling.

Airolo is picturesque in position, and a great point of departure for exploring pedestrians ; there are here, too, the ruins of a Lombard tower, called " Casa dei * " Vacation Rambles." By Sir T. N. Talfourd. (Canton Tessin J Pagani," built, says tradition (and Murray), by King Desiderius, whom Charlemagne defeated and took prisoner at the first of themany battles that have been fought before Pavia. But Airolo causes no long detention. The way onward lies through the Val Levantina, and before the chestnut-trees appear, which are just seen above Faido, a great surprise is in store. This is" the defile of Dazio, a rent in the Monte Piottino, one of the most striking -scenes along -the whole route. The carriage road is a simple ledge cut through the rocks which overhang the boiling torrent of the Ticino, and though perfectly safe, and in reality well defended by its barrier, is so abrupt and inconstant in its course, crossing the river thrice over bridges built at sharp angles, that a not altogether * groundless fear affects the nervously disposed — a fear to be remembered as a pleasure, when the sublimity of the scene associates itself with the recollection.

This picturesque gorge is the last alpine feature of the journey. At Faido broad trellisesare hung with, vines, rich with depending grapes ; fountains sparkle in the sun ; and all the garden walls are studded with basking lizards, which claim to be a population as Soon .as the Alps are crossed. Then comes a broader and highly cultivated valley, still bearing the name of the Val Levantina ; the towers of Desiderius multiply ; Romanesque architecture is seen at Giornico ; at Bodio is a rude rocky memento of a Swiss victory gained over the Milanese four centuries ago ; and at Biasca the traces are evident of an earthquake which, in the year 1512, desolated all the country. A little above the junction of the Moesa and the Ticino, at Arbedo, — a spot memorable for a defeat of the Swiss, the contre-coup of which was Bodio, — the defile is passed which leads to the Spliigen by the Pass of the Bernardino, and then the towers of Bellinzona, the diadem of this capital of the Tessin, — there being two other towns which share the honour, — appear in full view.

Through its narrow streets, where first we notice the pavement peculiar to all Italian cities, and pass the heavy arcades which serve as market-places and shelter from the storms which sweep down the valley, the day's journey is brought to a close at the "Angela," an excellent inn, where the only drawback for the tired wayfarer, charmed with the appearance of his elegant looking bed, is the cast-iron quality of the pillows, an inconvenience to which he must patiently submit, for henceforward he will be exposed to it wherever he turns in Italy. The castellated appearance of Bellinzona is well described by Judge Talfourd: — " This small city," he says, " comprises within the circuit of its immediate vicinity as much of interest and beauty as any town I have visited. Strong in situation, and most important in position, it has been the object of many a bloody contest; and now presents the remains. of no less than three fortresses, two in the lap of growing vegetation, and one cresting it.

The central castle is still used as an arsenal, and its walls. are' those of the town, which is still bound in by walls and towers. : Of the -furthest, castle I know nothing beyond the effect of its clustering turrets and strong -iron-bound walls -in the scene. The loftiest and the rudest was the object of bur '.preferable regards ;' . arid we passed the larger part of our summer's day within the shade of its ruins From a narrow ten-ace — scarce more than a ledge" fronting them— to which we climbed,. is a fine view of the two subject castles; the walled city almost like a miniature, for you may walk from gate to' gate in. five minutes; the long grey bridge over the Ticino ; the affluent country backed by the lower roots of the Alps ; but the silent, desecrated tower was more interesting than all."

From Bellinzona the road lies through a broad plain, taming the current of the Ticino till it enters the Lago Maggiore, where, for the present, we bid it farewell. For a glorious riew of the. great lake of Lombardy there is no better station 'than .the fainous convent of. La Madonna del Sasso, above the town of Locarno,* a shrine visited by pilgrims for many an age, and freshly restored by modem -devotion. "It: was to this "shrine," says Miss Costello, in her "Tour to and from Venice," " that Giovarini Galea'zzo Visconti, in the fourteenth century, proceeded, in order to lull to rest the suspicions of his uncle Bernabo of Milan, with whom he shared the sovereignty, of. Lombardy; and here he offered up his vows, not of piety, but for a successful issue to, the daring adventure on which he was bent.

Galeazzo quitted Pavia with a "powerful array; for no' fewer than two thousand horse accompanied him onhispilgrimage. ' Bernabo heard with contempt of the powerful guard with which he surrounded himself,* persuaded that cowardice dictated his caution, and when his: more suspicious' friends .suggested the necessity of wary observation in his moveriients, the uncle rephed~that,he was too great a saint to be treacherous. '-My nephew,' said he, ' is by .'no. means of a warlike disposition ; he loves priests better than . soldiers, a rosary better than a 'sword; his days are occupied in pilgrirriages,' and his nights in penance; he is riot the foe whom I need dread.' His dutiful and pious relation could-not approach Milan so nearly without paying his respects" to the uncle .who: trusted hiin so well'; accordingly, after his devotions •were .paid, the meek !Gale'azzo; with. all. his numerous train, directed his steps to the great 'city, and ■was.'met'by'Bernabo, his two sons, and a few attendants only.

The relations' e'mbraced; and. uttered -mutual expressions of friendship, though Bernabo, in his' heart,' as.be looked at his two sons, wished that the heritage of his Jn'ephew^was already annexed, to theirs. What were the secret thoughts of 23 -7U '"'ii'. (CONVENT ©F LA' MADONNA BJSL _ AB0YE LOCARNO. ■ ■ THE SPORTING LIFE, (ONE PENNY, BI-WEEKLY) Contains Contributions from the celebrated " SENTINEL " (late Chief Contributor to Bell's Life in London), the only Turf writer who predicted the WINNERS OF THE CHESTER CUP, TWO THOUSAND, DERBY, AND OAKS. UNDER THE SOLE EDITORSHIP OF HENRY M. FEIST. PUBLISHED EVERY WEDNESDAY AND SATURDAY MORNING AT FIVE O'CLOCK. OFFICE:— 148, FLEET STREET, LONDON. Now Ready, Part L. of THE TURNER GALLERY, A SERIES OF SIXTY ENGRAVINGS FROM THE WORKS OF THE LATE J. M. W. TURNER, R.A. WITH DESCRIPTIVE TEXT BY RALPH NICHOLSON WORNUM, Keeper and Secretary, National Gallery.

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