The West of Ireland: its existing condition, and prospects

Front matter

THE WEST OF IRELAND. /"ar-itt.- , THE WEST OF IRELAND ITS EXISTING CONDITION, AND PROSPECTS. BY HENRY COULTER, CORRESPONDENT OF SAUNDEl.S'S NEWS-LETTER. (BY PERMISSION.) DUBLIN: HODGES & SMITH, 104 GRAFTON STREET, JRookstlltra so t\jt Slnibtrsitg. LONDON: HURST & BLAOK.ETT, GT. MARLBOROCGH ST. WM. BLACKWOOD & SONS, EDINBURGH & LONDON. 18(12. J. F. FOWLER, PRINTER, 3 CROW STREET, DAME STREET, DUBLIN. NOTICE TO THE READER. The pages which form this work, contain the Letters of the Special Correspondent of Saunders's News-Letter from the "West of Ireland, in relation to the condition and prospects of the people, consequent upon the partial failure of agricultural produce, caused by unfavourable harvests during the last two years. These Letters are now published as they appeared in Saunders's News-Letter in the latter part of 1861 and the beginning of 1862, without any material alteration.

The reader must not expect to find a complete narrative of travel, but a careful compilation of facts referring mainly to the subject that called for the Commission. Some omissions may therefore occur, which a more extended examination of the several districts would have supplied, and for which the indulgence of the reader is solicited. The great object of the writer has been to ascertain the truth, and to represent the state of the country as the several circumstances came under his personal observation during an inquiry which extended over a period of four months, and embraced the greater portion of seven counties. Some of the illustrations, though not specially referred to in the text, have been introduced as characteristic of the country and the people. The Editor. April, 1862. PAGE 1 '.'1 37 50 63 ji CONTENTS

Chapter I

The object of inquiry. — Athlone Ballinasloe. — State of the country. — Workhouses. — Inundations of the rivers Shannon and Suck. — The Marquess of Clanricarde's property. — Allan Pollok, Esq. — Lismany. — Scarcity of Fuel (Portumna, November 16)

Chapter VII

County Galway. — Clifden. — Apparent poverty of the inhabitants.— Their low state of civilization. — Absence of resident landlords.— Errismore. — Test of the potato failure. — Kelp. — Interior of a hovel. — Plan for drying turf (Clifden, December 12)

Chapter VIII

Clifden continued The Law Life Insurance Company.— Trespass ing. — Duty of Government to construct Harbours. — Experiment of Rev. Mr. Darcy and Captain Stoll. — Curious antique relics. — The geology and botany of Errisbeg. — The Doohulla fishery l (Clifden, December 19) ......

Chapter IX

Cleggan district.— Wretchedness of the dwellings — Sir Christopher Leighton's improvements. — Scarcity of turf. — Letter of Morning Post (Clifden, December 23) .... .

Chapter X

Climate of Connemara. — Scenery. — The Twelve Pins. — Letterfrack. — Killery Harbour. — Maam. — Joyce's Country. — A Conne mara farmer. — Distress of the small holders Oughterard (Maam, December 26) ...... i

Chapter XI

Tuam. — Its Suburbs. — Poverty and misery of the inhabitants. — The Fuel Fund. — The two Committees. — Village of Carrowpeter Condition of the people of Headford. — The Quarter-acre clause. — The Rev. Peter Conway (Tuam, January 4, 1862)

Chapter XII

Cong, Co. Mayo.— Its traffic— The "Pigeon Hole".— The Abbey. — Benjamin Lee Guinness, Esq.— The Relief Committee. — Lord Pluuket's Circular (Cong, January 7)

Chapter XIII

Town of Ballinrobe.— Scarcity of fuel. -Fuel Fund Committee Liberality of the local gentry and landlords.— The "marrying season".— Estate of Robert Tighe, Esq.— Farm of James Simson, Esq. (Ballinrobe, January CONTENTS. IX PAGE 177 192 204 222 235 24G 254

Chapter XIV

Westport. — Demesne of the Marquess of Sligo. — Benevolence of • William Livingstone, Esq.— Condition of the Agricultural Population. — Decrease of Domestic Industry (Westport, County Mayo, Jan. 14)

Chapter XV

Castlebar. — "Gombeen" Men. — Principal Landowners. — The "Rundale" System. — Lord Lucan's Farm (Castlebar, January 18)

Chapter XVI

Belmullet. — Newport, its trade and population. — Ballycroy. — Emigration. — Bangor. — Dearth of fuel. — High rents Revival of the Kelp manufacture. — Tax upon industry. — Wretched condition of the inhabitants of "the Mullet" (Belmullet, Erris, Co. Mayo, Jan. 22) .

Chapter XVII

Belmullet continued. — Village of Tip and its Fishery. — The "Curraghs". — State of the northern portion of "the Mullet". — The Relief Committee. — A Landlord's suggestion for the prevention of future famines. — Mr. J. S. Mill on the evils of the cottier system (Belmullet, Erris, Co. Mayo, Jan. 25) . . . .

CHAPTER XVIIL

Ballina. — Its trade. — The Salmon Fishery. — Distribution of Coals. — Estates of Colonel Gore and the Earl of Arran (Ballina, Co. Mayo, Jan. 28) .

Chapter XIX

Ballina, continued. — Consumption of Indian meal. — Messrs. Sturge's Corn Circular. - High rents. — Maxwell's Wild Sports of the West— Flax cultivation. — Education (Ballina, February 5)

Chapter XX

Sligo. — State of the harbour and port. — The District Lunatic Asylum. — The merchants, shopkeepers, and mills. — Scenery near Sligo. — Condition of the small farmers. — Lord Palmerston's estates, and the improvements he has effected (Sligo, Feb. CONTENTS. X PAGE 272 285 301 315 332 349

Chapter XXI

Sligo continued. — Tubbercurry. — Joshua Cooper, Esq., Markree Castle.— Lissadill.— Sir R. Gore Booth.— Mr. Barber's farm.— Easkey. — Manufacture of Kelp. — Want of a secure harbour (Sligo, Feb. 15)

Chapter XXII

County Donegal — Probable increase of emigration. — Bundoran. — Ballyshannon. — Poverty of the inhabitants. — Estate of Thomas Conolly, Esq., M.P. — Decrease of the sewed-muslin trade. — Scarcity of fuel. — Porcelain factory at Belleek (Donegal, Feb. 22)

Chapter XXIII

Killybegs. — Estate of Murray Stewart, Esq. — Abolition of the Rundale System. — "Glenswilly Decrees". — St. John's Point Des cription of "Slieve League". — Bog Iron Ore (KiUybegs, Feb. 26)

Chapter XXIV

General State of the County Donegal. — Glenties. — Tenant Right. — Gweedore. — Lord George Hill — Letterkenny. — Value of Education. — Estate of Sir James Emerson Tennent (Letterkenny, Co. Donegal, March 8) ..... .

Chapter XXV

County Leitrim — Manorhamilton and its neighbourhood. — Estates of the Rigbt Hon. John Wynne, William Johnston, and George Lane Fox, Esqrs. — Want of drainage. — Description of a hovel near Castletown. — Agrarian murder. — Creevilia Ironworks. — Hints on potato culture (Drumkeerin, March 15)

Chapter XXVI

Comity Roscommon.— Boyle. — Rockingham, the seat of Viscount Lorton.— Castle Tennison. — French Park. — Moate Park.— Lough Glyn, the seat of Viscount Dillon. — Ballaghaderreen. — Termination of Tour, and concluding observations (Roscommon, March LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Frontispiece Round Tower, Kilmacduagh, near Gort. County Galway. Page Lismany .......... 15 Ganaveen Farm Steading 17 Scariff Bay 21 Gap of Baltard, Kilkee 51 Loop Head ......... 52 Bishop's Island, Kilkee 64 Two Claddagh Scenes 79 Houses in Connemara . . . . . . . . 81 Clifden Castle 89 Clifden 90 Ballinahinch Castle ........ 95 Salmon Weir, Ballinahinch . . . . . . .101 Doohulla School . .109 A Connemara Pedler 114 Lough Inagh, Connemara . . . . . . .119 Twelve Pins, Connemara 121 Hen's Castle 124 A Connemara Farmer ........ 126 From Cong to Oughterard ....... 130 Turf Boat, Connemara . . . . . . .150 Lough Mask 153 Ashford 157 Going to Market 171 Market Day, County Mayo 178 Spinning Party 1 89 Hoop Making 191 Fisherman, County Mayo ....... 206 Fisherman's Child, Erris, County Mayo .... 227 Fisherman's Cottage . . . . ... . . 269 Collecting Sea-weed ........ 283 Bundoran 288 Peasant Girl, County Donegal 296 Lough Swilly 325 Tempo 329 Map of Ireland Map of Telegraph Stations at home and abroad.

ERKATA. In page 33, line 19, for "The return was, however, a. bad one", read, " The return of the oat crop was a bad one". In Chapter XL, for the heading "The Joyce Country", read "Tuam County Galway". K.nl-aif* in Wpmwtio* - t/i progr***

Chapter I

The object of inquiry. — Athlone. — Ballinasloe. — State of the country. — Workhouses. — Inundations of the rivers Shannon and Suck. — The Marquess of Clanricarde's property. — Allan Pollok, Esq. — Lismany. — Scarcity of Fuel. — Portumna. The gloomy accounts which have been in circulation for some time past relative to the state of the western districts of Ireland, and of the harvest generally throughout this part of the country, render it desirable that more accurate information than that of mere rumour should be obtained on a subject of so much interest and importance. The real condition of affairs also requires a publicity more extensive than occasional communications to the press of this country, which, though possibly correct, cannot supply that general information which a careful examination of the several districts supposed likely to be affected by unusual distress can afford.

It has therefore become my duty to visit the West, South, and North-west counties in Ireland, west of the river Shannon, and to state accurately and freely the present condition of the people in those parts of the country where distress now exists, or where it is expected to be most severely felt during the ensuing winter and spring. I am not to be a writer on hearsay evidence, but am bound to be a personal observer of the facts which I state. I enter on the discharge of this duty without bias or prejudice of any kind ; I have no party purpose to serve, and no preconceived opinions to support, but am animated by an earnest desire to elicit the truth, and to place it clearly and without exaggeration before the pitblic. I may add, that the character of the journal which I represent is a guarantee for my reporting truthfully all matters relating to this subject, of such vital importance to the whole community, and more especially to those likely to be immediately affected by the deficiency of this year's harvest.

In the prosecution of the inquiries which I have undertaken, I feel that I can confidently rely on receiving from all classes in the West of Ireland every assistance that it is in their power to afford me; and I am prepared to visit any portions of the country within the track marked out for me, to which my attention may be directed as deserving of a special examination. On my way to Portumna I visited Athlone and Bal linasloe, and from the information acquired in those localities from trustworthy sources, I am in a position to state that the failure of the potato crop, the deficiency of the harvest generally, and above all the want of fuel, are of sufficient extent to justify the prevalent opinion, that this winter will be one of severe distress and privation to the poorer classes. Famine, such as the appalling visitation of 1847, is not to be apprehended; but, between that extreme and the ordinary condition of the small farmers and the peasantry of the West of Ireland, there are many degrees of misery through which a large number of the people of this province are, I fear, destined PORTUMNA. to pass.

The landed proprietors, however, may do much to mitigate the evil, by indulgence towards those tenants who have suffered severe losses, and by employing them in the drainage and other improvement of their estates — a measure which will be not only one of charity and benevolence to the labouring classes, but must ultimately prove highly remunerative to themselves. In neither of the towns to which I have alluded, nor in their immediate vicinity, has distress manifested itself to any considerable extent. The inmates of the work houses are not numerous, the rates are low, food is to be obtained at a reasonable price, and in Athlone, at all events, there is no lack of employment. The very large importations of foreign corn have had the effect of keep ing down the price of oats, which are now selling in the Athlone market at from 10s. to 12s. per barrel of 14 stones, for grain of good quality.

There are several large millers in this town, who carry on an extensive inland trade, sending immense quantities of flour to Clonmel, Rathkeale, Limerick, and other places. The Athlone union contains 31 rural divisions, of which 16 are situated in the county of Roscommon. The number of paupers in the workhouse on Tuesday last was 313, being an increase of about 60 over that of the corresponding period of last year, when the number was 256. In November, 1849, the inmates amounted to 1,200, and the rate that year was 8s. in the pound, in two rates of 5s. and 3s. During that period of universal distress outdoor relief was largely bestowed, but at present there is no aid of that description given, nor will the guardians resort to it except under circumstances of extraordinary pressure, which they do not anticipate.

Last month a rate was struck intended to provide for the year, the highest rate being Is. 4d. for the town division, and the same for the electoral division of Dysart — the poorest in the union — whilst in other districts the rate is as low as 6d. in the pound. It is not at all likely that this rate will suffice for the year, and in all probability a supplemental rate will have to be struck in July. The people will endeavour to keep out of the workliouse as long as they can, and will endure the direst suffering rather than enter it, so intense and deep-seated is their dislike to the system ; but there are too many whose scanty store of potatoes, their only food, will be entirely exhausted in two or three months, and who must therefore seek for relief under the poor laws. The contracts for the supply of provisions to the work house are very low, oatmeal being supplied at £13 17s. 6d. per ton, which is under the price of last year, and meat at 5d. per pound.

The price of the latter in the town for the best quality is 8d. Hitherto turf has been in variably used in the workhouse, but it is not now to be had, and the guardians for the first time have been obliged to contract for coal, which is delivered to them at £1 Os. 6d. per ton. In the southern district of the barony of Athlone, the failure of the potato crop has been universal in the low undrained lands and in reclaimed bog. In such soils the tubers appear to have ceased growing at an early stage ; so that potatoes which remain untainted with the disease are of little value as food; for they never attained the usual size nor maturity. Of this immature crop nearly one-half is tainted, and the entire produce may therefore be considered to be a miserable failure. In dry gravelly PORTUMNA. 5 upland, where the soil has been worked deeply and well manured, potatoes present a better appearance, the plant grew to a more advanced stage, but is still very inferior in quality, and as to quantity, the entire crop in the ground is not nearly the usual weight or bulk, and there is at least one-third diseased.

The accounts from one or two places are not so unfavourable. For example, in the Parish of Kiltoom, about five miles from Athlone, where the soil is of a gravelly character, the potatoes are good and not much affected by the disease. This, however, is an exceptional case. During the last two years, great mortality prevailed among pigs, large numbers having died from distemper. Many of the small farmers have now no pigs, and conse quently are unable to make any profitable use of the diseased and half-grown potatoes. The oats are very in different in quantity, and a large portion of them will be malty. All crops which were sown late (which was generally the case with the small farmers), and in cold undrained land, were unripe and uncut till a late period, and are now yielding a very poor return.

The raising of green crops (turnips and mangolds) has increased considerably within the last few years, particularly in the direction of the Seven Churches, where there are exten sive tracts of reclaimed bog, well suited for the growth of green crops, and dairy farming has been introduced to some extent. This district appears to be improving, but the want of a good leading road into the town of Athlone is a serious inconvenience to the farmers. In addition to the failure of the potato crop, loss of pigs, and a scanty return of oats, the landholders have suffered dreadfully this year from continued overflowings of the Shannon. As I shall have occasion to refer to this subject again, it may be here passed over with the remark, that the statements already published certainly do not overrate the amount of damage sustained.

The crops of hay carried off by the floods, or rendered utterly valueless, were not the only losses sustained by the landholders. The extensive callows upon which they grazed their cattle during the autumn and early winter, were unavailable this season. Many of the small farmers declare that they might have borne up under the loss of their potatoes, but that the destruction of their cattle, arising from want of pasture and hay, will ruin them. With few exceptions, there will, it is said, be no default in the payment of rents this year. The farmers generally will pay their rents (to May) in full, but a large proportion of them will be unable to meet the November gale in April next. Landlords will doubtless consider the extreme circumstances of the present year, and deal liberally and justly with their tenants.

Among a large portion of the tenant-farmers a seeling of confidence exists towards their landlords, and on many properties the tenants have expressed themselves very favourably of the treatment they have experienced from them. Notwithstanding that this district abounds with bogs, there will be great suffering from want of fuel. Large quantities of turf were cut in the spring and early summer, but the process of drying was prevented by continued wet. In many places the bogs are inaccessible to carts and horses, owing to the main drains being so much swollen by the rise of the Shannon. Several farmers assert that their turf is now in as bad or even a worse condition than when it was cut in the beginning of summer. There was a PORT0MNA. 7 miserably small supply in the market of Athlone, and though of very inferior quality, it brought fully double last year's price, and it will become dearer every day.

I saw some loads of turf purchased in the market by per sons who live in localities surrounded by bogs, but who have been unable, from the cause already assigned, to save the fuel lying almost at their very doors. I remarked particularly that there is scarcely any turf stacked at the houses of the farmers, and the labouring population may be said to have none at all. Whatever may be the difference of opinion as to the prospects of the people in other respects, on this subject there can be no question. The want of fuel will press sorely on the poorer classes of all the towns throughout Connaught, and will be a most grievous addition to the difficulties and sufferings of the small holders. The observations which I have made with respect to Athlone, will to a considerable extent apply to Bal linasloe and its neighbourhood.

In the immediate vicinity of the town, the potato crop has not suffered much from the disease, but in the surrounding districts, within a radius of six or eight miles, only half the crop has been saved, and the quality is inferior to that of the previous year. The wheat crop is about one-third deficient. Oats were sown much more extensively than last year. This circumstance sustained the hopes of the farmers when the first indications of the potato blight appeared in August, and gave them confidence that they would have a sufficiency of bread stuffs even if the disease were more violent than it has proved to be ; but when the oats came to be threshed, the yield was found to be much less than was anticipated. The deficiency in quantity is fully one-fifth, and the grain is husky and bad, particularly that which was grown upon poor soils.

The inequality of the crop, and the inferior character of some portions of it, may be judged from the fact that the prices of oats in Ballinasloe markets range from 7s. to 12s. per barrel of 14 stones. The barley is scarcely an average crop, and great com plaints are made of the shortness of the green crops, which were largely cultivated this year in the neighbourhood. The destruction of hay in this locality, caused by the overflowing of the river Suck, is a serious item in the catalogue of the farmers' grievances. An immense quan tity was wholly destroyed by the flooding of the meadows, and the portion subsequently saved was so bad that the farmers hesitated to give it to their cattle. The extensive callows lying along the banks of the Suck were let in the early part of the season at prices very little less than last year — viz., from £5 to £9 an acre.

However, when the floods set in, towards the end of August and in the beginning of September, it became evident that a large proportion of the hay must be lost, and the callows were then re-let at about half the original price. The scarcity of fuel is felt very much here as well as in all other parts of Connaught. Turf is selling for double the price it brought last year: a box which for merly was sold for Is. now brings 2s. and 2s. 6d. Coals (which are supplied to this town at from 23s. to 25s. per ton) would be found much cheaper and more economical than bad wet turf at the rates I have stated ; but unfortu nately there are few houses in the country — I speak of course of the houses of the shopkeepers and better class of farmers — fitted with grates suitable for the burning of PORTUMNA. 9 coals.

If the people had commenced to cut their turf early in the spring, they could have saved considerable quantities, and thus have averted the serious calamity that has now befallen them. The wisdom of doing this has been urged on the people here, but all to no effect. They adhere to their traditional custom of beginning to cut turf in June, after all their agricultural operations have been completed, notwithstanding the warnings of past experience, and the advice of those interested in their welfare. The Irish peasant, or small farmer, is proverbial for his obstinate attachment to his old habits, and scarcely any amount of argument or persuasion will induce him to break through the thraldom of custom, or venture on the pathos improvement. With many good and admirable traits of character, he is very suspicious, and too often conceives that advice to adopt a course different from his habitual practice is tendered not with a motive to serve him, but to promote the advantage of the person who offers it.

As yet there has been no material increase in the number of paupers admitted .. into the workhouse of Ballinasloe. The area of the union contains 160,000 statute acres. The highest rate struck for the year as Is. 10d., and the lowest 5d. in the pound on the poor law valuation. This rate will scarcely suffice to carry the union over July, if the anticipated increase in the number of inmates takes place during the winter. The number of paupers in the workhouse on Saturday, the 9th November, was 233, almost all infirm and aged per sons. At the corresponding date in 1860 and 1859, the members were 211 and 201 respectively. The numbers in hospital on the same day in the three years were, in 1861, 103; in 1860, 88; and in 1859, 80. In the year 1847-48 the workhouse was crowded to excess, and at one time the number of inmates rose to 4,400.

The contracts for provisions have been taken at very low rates. Oatmeal is supplied at £13 10s. a ton, and Indian meal at £9 10s. Last year the prices were : Oatmeal, £13 18s. 3d., and Indian meal £9 10s. per ton. The contract for coals, with which the grates of the Ballinasloe workhouse make acquaintance this year for the first time, has been taken at 22s. 3d. per ton. From Portumna to Mount-Shannon, a distance of about fifteen miles, and from thence to Gort, embracing a great portion of the southern division of the county of Galway, the complaint is universal respecting the general failure of the crops and the prospect of very sad and severe distress amongst the small farmers and the labouring population during the coming winter. I have conversed with all ranks and classes of people, from the highest to the lowest ; I have had the benefit of the opinions of men of great experience and intelligence, in whose judgment and veracity I can place implicit confidence ; and I have myself seen the condition of a very large district of the country, which I have examined with the utmost care.

Notwithstanding all these circumstances, however, I find it difficult to arrive at a correct estimate of the actual state of the country or to venture with any degree of certainty to anticipate what will be the position of the poorer classes in a couple of months later in the season. On this point there is a considerable difference of opinion. Those who are accustomed to take a desponding view, and who always look at the dark side of the picture, think that in less than two months a large number of the small farmers PORTUMNA. 11 will have exhausted their scanty resources, and will have no prospect before them save starvation or the workhouse. Others consider that matters are not altogether so bad ; and although admitting that the people must endure much suffering and privation, they still maintain that famine in its more extreme forms is out of the question, and that the great mass of the population will contrive to pull through the winter and the spring without the necessity of having recourse to public alms ; and in this view I am disposed to concur to a considerable extent.

When we speak of " famine in Ireland", the mind naturally reverts to those terrible years of national disaster when the inhabitants of whole districts were reduced to one dead level of pauperism, when the workhouses were crowded to suffocation, and the people in the remote parts of the country perished from actual starvation on the highways, whilst pestilence swept them away by thousands. Scenes such as those we may never witness again. The diminution of the population, the improved condition of those who remain, and the increased resources of the country at large, would enable us to deal effectually with distress of a more aggravated character than any which we are likely to encounter. I therefore agree with those who do not apprehend a famine in this district ; but I fear that the failure of the crops, together with the almost total want of fuel, will pauperize and rum a great many of the small farmers.

It is difficult to obtain the average results of the pre sent harvest ; and moreover, the average results do not afford satisfactory means of judging of the amount or intensity of the distress that is likely to prevail. The returns vary considerably, according to circumstances; some of the farmers not having suffered nearly so much as others, either from the potato blight or the deficiency in their other crops, which was mainly owing to greater skill, the adoption of improved methods of cultivation, and, above all, by having their crops planted early, so that they were well advanced when the unfavourable weather set in. Comparing the various accounts which I have received, and testing them by my own observation, I may safely state that above one-half of the potato crop in this neigh bourhood has been lost, and those which have been saved are very inferior in quality, being soft, wet, and, generally speaking, small.

In many instances, potatoes, which, when dry, were apparently sound, have rotted in the pits ; so that there will be a great loss in consequence. It is the general experience of the farmers that the crops which were planted early have yielded, comparatively speaking, a fair return, which was especially the case where the potato was planted in moorland, or even in deep bog, when properly prepared and manured. On the contrary, in heavy moorlands, which retained the wet, the disease proved much more virulent. The fight porous character of the peaty soil allows the rain to drain off quickly, besides which it would appear as if land o this description possesses some specific properties anta gonistic to the development of the blight. Unfortu nately, potatoes were not extensively planted in bog-land in this locality.

I may mention two instances which came under my own observation, which illustrate the different character of the results obtained under nearly similar circumstances. About six miles from Portumna, I saw a field of potatoes PORTUMNA. being dug, the produce of which was one-third short, and the general run of the potatoes small, but, as I did not observe any black or diseased tubers amongst them, I called the attention of the farmer to this circumstance, who told me that the diseased potatoes had melted away in the ground ; at all events there was no vestige of them visible. Some three miles further on I saw another field in which several persons were engaged in the same occupation ; in this case the produce was scarcely one-fourth of an average ; the sound potatoes were very small, a great many being only as large as a small sized plum ; and quantities of them in every stage of decomposition were heaped together in different parts of the field.