Went to Kansas; being a thrilling account of an ill-fated expedition to that fairy land, and its sad results; together with a sketch of the life of the author, etc

Front matter

WENT TO KANSAS; BEING A THRILLING ACCOUNT OF AN ILL-FATED EXPEDITION TO That Fairy Land, and its Sad Results ; TOGETHER WITH A SKETCH OF THE LIFE OF THE AUTHOE, AND HOW THE WOELD GOES WITH HER. BY MRS. 3VriRiy^-3VI DAVIS COLT. " There's a Divinity that shapes our ends, Rough hew them as we will." , r WATERTOWN: * PRINTED BY L. INGALLS & OO. 1862. m py §mww, MTRLAM LOUISA COLT, WHO HAS STOOD BY MY SIDE WHILE THE DARK WATERS OF SORROAV AND ADVERSITY HAVE SURGED AROUND ME ; AND WHO HAS BEEN, AND IS A WORLD OF COM- FORT TO ME, llfei ¥0ta» to aitflirnM, John W. Gorae 4 Co., Binders.

Preface

. It is with extreme modesty that I present the following pages to be read by other eyes than mine. I do n'ot hand them out expecting that they possess merit enough to interest the million, in these excit ing war times ; but it is of my friends (those that know me,) and their friends, that I ask patronage, and expect audience. While in Kansas, I carried a little note-book in my pocket, in Avhich I noted the dates, and the trans pirations of each day ; 'so that in Avriting my sad history, I have carried out the same form, describing the scenes just as they transpired. What I have Avritten, my friends may rely upon as being the Truth. If it fails of being truth, it is not plus truth but minus truth, on account of my lack of language to describe up to truth. I have not Avritten, expecting to plate myself over with the purest and most shining of metals, gold; neither have I written expecting or wishing to gain " the naphtha lamp of deathless fame ;" but / have written that I may thereby procure the means to buy my "bread to eat, and wood to warm," and perad venture, redeem my little home, which I tfel Avas purchased by the life-blood of my beloved husband !

PREFACE.

. IV When common necessities are not supplied, (save by charity,) we cannot wish for riches, or court fame ; so that my prayer must be, "Give me this day my daily bread." My friends will not expect my book to come, bear ing the marks of extensive lore ; for I have never gathered from the rich halls of science, or reaped from the broad fields of general knowledge ; but as I have walked along over earth's uneven highway, now gathering flowers by some silver stream, then clambering over hills and the mountain's rocky cliff, or taking shelter under a spreading leafy tree, or when struggling with the angry waves, have striven to glean. Neither, while writing, have I been freed from care, or abounded in physical health ; I have not hied myself away to a little " sanctum sanctorum," there to get inspired with rich Areins of thought, to gush out into profuse descriptiAre language ; but I have sat right here in my little kitchen — have been proArider, distributer, mother, mistress of the house to receiA'e and entertain all who might chance to come, (and the number has not been small ;) have been housekeeper, "chief butler and baker," laun dress, sewing girl, chore boy, sick nurse, and invalid besides ; for as often as once in three weeks (during the six months I have been writing,) I have been confined to my bed for three successive days, with a dreadful sick and nervous headache.

PREFACE.

. V I must ask the kind indulgence of my friends, knowing that my writing can be subjected to criti cisms ; but under the circumstances, driven by ne cessity, with a mountain's weight of inability resting upon me, if others can do more and better, I will give them God's speed. If I awaken sympathy for the afflicted of earth, by patronage procure my heart's desire, and give courage to the suffering to " bear up awliile beneath life's pressures," until " one unbounded spring encir cle all," then my labor has not been in vain. MIRIAM D. COLT. West Stockholm, St. Lawrence ) Co., N. Y., July 1, 1S62. f TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Anticipations and preparations — Vegetarian Co., — H. S. Clubb's circular — Going to Kansas — Preparations for journey — Letter from H. S. Clubb— Decision— Packing and starting.

Chapter II

Our journey— Bid farewell to friends — Detained at Watertown -Stop at Buffalo — Take Lake Shore route for Cleveland — Stop at Indianapolis — Arrive at St. Louis — Go on board steamer for Kansas City — " The call to Kansas" — Journey into the territory ■Fording rivers — Camping — Arrive at destination.

Chapter III

Disappointments and discomforts — Find no mills — No place of shelter — " The centre Octagon " — Improve it — Our dormitory — Rainy season — Simple food — Manner of cooking — Hope revived — Expect a saw mill — Company leave — Receive calls — Washing — Baking — Take claims — Build cabins.

Chapter IV

Ploughing and planting — A busy time — Ploughing by moon light—Mrs. Herriman sick — Visit her, carry flowers — Climate of Kansas — Ramble in the bottom lands — The Neosho — Vines and berry bushes — Indians, dress and wild nature — Go with husband to plant corn — A spot selected for cabin — Don the Bloomers — Flowers — A novel picture — Church at Mr. Clubb's — The eager cattle — Spider wart — Thunder storm — The Indians gone on a hunt — Presentiments — Plough broken — Mr. Herriman leaves the Territory— Sabre gone— Sambo day— Tune for Flowers— Visit to the ruined wigwams — Indian utensils — Purslain plant. CONTENTS. VII

Chapter V

The unsettled state of the Territory — Northern invasion — What Willie said — Mr. Buxton — No papers — The city of Law rence destroyed — Osawatomie sacked— Mob threaten to come here — Trunks locked— I am made Treasurer — May Heaven save us — Air — Bugbear — Straw ticks filled Arah prairie grass — Mus quetoes — Fencing cornfields — H. S. Clubb's house — Soft stone for building — Limestone — Coal — Baking Days — White bread — Writing home — Letter from St. Louis — Dried apple and berries — Grasshoppers — Evening prim roses— Big creek — Whippoor will — Frogs.

Chapter VI

The fever and ague has surely come — Mother, Lydia, Mema. Mr. V. and wife all sick — Mr. V. intends leaving tho Territory — I am taken sick also — Husband concludes to leave — Husband washes — We cook for journey — The water sailing — Father hunts for water — Doomed to disappointment — Father takes mother and sister L., and goes to Indian house — Mr. V. and wife leave for Kansas City — What shall we do?— Submit to paternality— H. S. Clubb sick— LeaA-es the settlement— Sick at Mr. Stewart's— Broadbenfs— The Oliver brothers leave— Willie taken sick— Unhappy Fourth— Husband returns from cornfield sick— Thunder storm— We go to Indian house— Spring of cold Avater— Husband goes to Mr. Stewart's, is sick with fever and ague— All sick but father and myself— Father draws water.

Chapter VII

All sick but myself— Mr. Buxton here—Writing home— Sick ones scattered about— Three months from Northern home— Go to settlement— Borrow a sieve— Mr. Stewart and willvisit us— Buxton takes sick and goes homo — I am nurse and maid— Take care of oxen, cow and calf— Bring water — Attend to the sick— Mourning dove — Charnol "house of red men's bones — Indian burial—Snakes—Mysterious personage— Take sick ones out to rid.. —Drive oxen— Storing water to wash— Wolves— Husband's CONTENTS. birth-day— Oxen run away— Go for them— Lose my way, but find lovely dells and grain fields— Go again for oxen— See Mr. Stewart— Ride home— Father Broadbent's visit— Prayer.

Chapter VIII

Indians return from hunt — Timely warning— Critical hour — My proposal— Take leave of family— Kiss my Willie again— Start off— Walked, run or flew— Fear of being seized by Indians — At the cornfields by sundown — Osage's superstition — Hurry on for fear of darkness and getting lost— Reach Mr. Adams'— Make known our danger — Mr. Adams makes " ready men and teams— Mr. Stewart and Broadbent start with me — Thunder storm — Woolen quilt — Contused and bewUdered — The oxen's in stinct — Tlie moon — Scattering trees —The cry of "a light," " a house, " — Thanks to Heaven —Embrace my family — Husband's anxiety — The men asleep — No sleep for me — The dawn of day — Bid a glad adieu to Indian house — Sweet corn and squashes — Arrive at settlement — Condition of cabin — "Puncheons" and heater, beds and trunks take their former place — Thanksgivings and rejoicings.

Chapter IX

Life at the settlement again — A letter from Mrs. V. — Another terrific thunder storm — A walk of four miles for spring Avater — The Indians pass and re-pass, going to Cofuchigue Avith dried buffalo meat and tallow — Their hungry dogs — Buy buffalo meat — Green corn and squashes in abundance —Family some better — Mr. V.'s cornfield — Mr. V.'s flowers and tomatoes — My dream —Hot days — Mr. Adams, wife and child, and young men sick — Mr. Stewart's family sick — AVe go to see Mr. Clubb — A shower on our return — A long, drizzling rain — bring Avater through the wet grass — Chase after cow — Husband tries to persuade father again to leave the Territory, but all in vain ; he must stay to sell land— Indians destroying our corn — Steal the melons — Oxen cannot be found— Sunday morn — Sister L. and Mema go with me for water — AVhite crows — Quails — Another letter from Mrs. V. — Intend to leave the country — Washing, and white clothes — CONTENTS.

IX Willie afraid the Indians will carry off his mamma — Trunks packed, and cooking done for our journey — Mr. Broadbent sick — Indian amenities — Our family better — Wagon sold — Agree with Mr. Morris to take us out of the Territory — Disappointed again — My husband's dream — He divides funds — Spike of flow ers — Another chance to go — Make arrangements with Healy — The big melon.

Chapter X

Our journey from the Neosho, &c— View the journey before me — Camp at Conreal's — Pass the Catholic Mission — Camp on Cow creek — Lame ox — Cooking by camp fire — Bad water — Ru mors of Avar — Reach marks of civilization — Driver obstinate — Husband stays in a house — A rainy night and morning — Look in at Mr. Decker's — Families propose a rest — Our ruffian driver demands our blood or our money — The scene overcomes my husband — He has a chiH — Gives the crazy driver a little — He threatens to leave us by the side of the road - -Find a place in a house for husband — Sleep with my children in the wagon — In sulted by drunken driver — He is persuaded to take us on a few miles — We stop at Carthage, Jasper Co., Mo. — Find a friend in one Mr. Wells — Husband and children sick some — Stop one week with Mr. Wells— Leave for Booneville, Mo. — Mr. Wheeler sick— Leave him at Mellville — Willie taken sick with dysentery — Hold him on pillows all day — Watch with him all night — We travel on— Arrive at Booneville — Stop at Bullock's hotel — Mema sick— Willie very sick — Mema better — I still watch with tremb ling.

Chapter XI

. Willie's death — Bury him in the city burying ground, a lovely, retired spot — Receive much sympathy from stranger friends — Pack trunks to journey — Psrchase gravestones for Willie, (pay with my own clothes,) marked, Willie, the little stranger—Hus band tries to sell gold watch — My dream — Husband taken sick See the stones placed at Willie's graA'e — Call Dr. McCutchen — Friends try to comfort me with hope of husband's recovery — My heart is sorrowful— husband no better— Friends kind— Hus- X CONTENTS. band's advice in case of his death — My husband's death and burial — We go to Capt. Walter's pleasant home — A letter from St. Louis states that my goods are in Kansas City — I must not grieve, but up and attend to business — Much sympathy, and ad ministering to necessities — The county fair, but no desire to go — Write a long letter in regard to goods — Headache — My husband's clothes sold at auction — The avails used to purchase him gravestones — A pleasant Sabbath— The negro servants — Notice of husband's death in the paper — Go to the burying ground to see husband's gravestones set — Take a last farewell — Have papers made out to send to Insurance Co. — Take leave of my kind stranger friends.

Chapter XII

Step out on the sea of life alone — Journey from Boonville to Jackson, Mich. — Meet with a warm reception from friends — Ride about the city — Visit to the state prison — Visit a brother in Parma— Mema sick — Return to Jackson — Sad news — Father Colt's death and burial in Kansas — Mother Colt and sister L. start for the State of New York — They arrive in Stockholm, N. Y. — Mother Colt's death the 4th of November — Mema very sick with the chills — Hear 0. S. Fowier lecture on Phrenology — Holidays in Jackson — Sister Lydia's death — Journey to Owassa, Mich.— Stop one night in Lansing — Stay one week in Bingham —Pass through thrifty towns — OAvassa (bright spot) — Receive letters from friends — Visiting with friends — Letters from the Insurance Co. — Write to Montreal — Policy lost — Write to Hart ford — Give bonds- — Receive insurance money — Invest it — Leave Owassa for Jackson, on the cars — Visit and bid farewell to friends — Start for New York — Visit Niagara^Falls — Sick at Sy racuse—Arrive at Potsdam — In West Stockholm — Purchase a little land to make a home — Visit, and receive letters from friends — My goods arrive— My home ready — Move into it— Barn and henery built — The widow's home and heart.

Chapter XIII

My early life — My pedigree — My father's character — My CONTENTS. XI mother — My place of nativity— Entrance upon this life — A puny childhood — Fifteen years of age before I had books or health to study — Joined the church before I was fourteen— My desire to dress well — Aspirations for knowledge — Kept house for a brother — Death of a little brother — Attended school winters — Taught school — Was successful — My minister's approval — Journey to St. Lawrence co. — My stay in Fort Covington — A pleasant time My father's moving to Parishville — Our pleasant home — My teaching and going to school — My marriage — Mema's birth — My life in the city, and love of the same- — Our removal to the coun try — Boarding and visiting-— Birth of my Willie — Living on a farm — Genealogy of the Colt family— My husband's birth-place — Removal to New York — His occupation and education.

Chapter XIV

How the world goes with me — "Only waiting" — My intentions of improving my little home— Setting trees and cultivating flowers — My interest not paid — My effort for a livelihood — Called to mourn — My brother sells and leaves — Called to mourn again — Remembered by my Booneville friends— Adversity still reigns — The farm sold on which my security rested— I am called to pay my little debts— My health poor— The cold winter— My neighbors get me wood — My nephew sends a little money — Me ma's poetry — Messages from my husband — My husband's whis per — The war — My neighbors— Fitting Mema to take care of herself — The poultry business— Poverty still gapes upon us — Relief from Montreal friends— Still try to improve our home — Praise God, and ask for grace.

Chapter I. Anticipations And Preparations

"Bring the sickle, speed the plough, Turn the ready sail ; Freedom is the noblest pay For the true man's toil. Ho ! brothers ! come brothers ! Hasten all Avith me, We'll sing upon the hunter's plain A song of liberty." Jan. oth, 1856. — We are going to Kansas. The Vegetarian Company that has been forming for many months, has finally organized, formed its constitution, elected its directors, and is making all necessary pre parations for the spring settlement. The directors of said Company are " Charles II. DeWolf, President ; John McLaurin, Treasurer ; Henry S. Clubb, Secretary."* II. S. Clubb says in his circular: In September last, Dr. John McLaurin, as one of the directors, proceeded to explore Kansas Territory, and after *Its origin, site, octagon plan of settlement, names of members and constitution may be found in the appendix. spending several weeks in traveling along the Kan sas, Osage and other rivers, he came to the. conclusion that a fine site on the Neosho river, between latitude 3S deg. and the boundary line of the Osage Indian lands, and betAveen 18 and 19 deg. longitude west from Washington, would be the best location for the Vegetarian Settlement.

He accordingly took possession of a claim, comprising excellent Avater privi leges. The river at this part is very rapid, and for ten months in the year the water is sufficiently abundant to make it serviceable for mill-power. It is free from any bad taste and is very soft. There is sufficient amount of timber to serve the purposes of settlers until additional timber can be grown. Coal, lime-stone, and sand-stone, suitable for grindstones, etc., and abundant springs of pure water are inter spersed throughout a fine rolling prairie, and the land comprises excellent vegetable mould, loam, etc., to a great depth, with a gravelly and in some instances rocky substratum. The distance from Fort Scott is about thirty miles, and from the Missouri border thirty-eight miles. It Avill be seen, by reference to the map of American Railway Guide, that a railroad is projected Avhich will cross the Neosho river a little below the spot above indicated.

The land is open to pre-emption five miles wide north and south, and to an unlimited extent east and west. The scenery is beautiful, and the' surface undulating like the waves of the ocean subsiding after a storm. The banks of the river are from fifteen to thirty feet high, so that a mill-dam can be easily construct ed without causing an overflow. Altogether it does not appear that a more suitable site could be found for the purposes of the com pany. We now present the plan of action by which we propose to commence the Settlement, and we confi dently ask for the active co-operation of every mem ber as soon as is consistent with his or her conven ience. PLAN OF OPERATION. 1. To raise a fund for the purchase of a law-mill, a grist-mill, and provisions, seeds, plants, grain, tents, etc.,. for the first settlers, and for the erection of a boarding-house, in which persons may reside Avithout risk to health, until their own houses can be erected. 2.

The money to be raised by an assessment of 10 per cent, on the capital subscribed, or of fifty cents per share, and by loans. 3. The property to be held by the directors, as trustees of the company, until the members shall meet in quorum and appoint their oavii officers. 4. The payment of fifty cents per share from each shareholder to be due on the 1st of Jan., 1856. But all payments received within the month of January, 1856, Avill be considered as regular. 5. Members Avill be charged interest at the rate of one per cent, per month, commencing Avith January 1st, 1856, for any amount due at that date, if not paid within the said month. The interest to con tinue until such amount shall be paid. 6. Loans to the company paid within the month of January will bear interest from the first of said month, at the rate of one per cent, per month. 7.

Every member is requested to communicate to the Secretary within the month of January, in rela tion to the following particulars : I. The amount of money the member pays Avithin the month. II. Whether the member intends to go to Kansas in February and assist in preparing for the larger number who will be on the ground in April or May. III. How many persons will accompany the mem ber, with the name, age arid occupation, etc., of each person, and relationship to the member, if any. Also the same particulars in regard to persons Avho are expected to follow when the member has established a home in the Settlement. IV. The name, age, address, occupation and amount of capital of the member making said return. 8. All money to be sent addressed Henry S. Clubb, care of FoAvler & Wells, 308 BroadAvay, New York city, by drafts on New York houses, payable only to the 'order of Henry S. Clubb.' 9.

It is expected that the plan of the Settlement will be completed, and the lots ready for distribution on the first clay of May,. 1856, Avhen it is requested that all members of the company be present, either personally or by duly appointed agents. 10. Members who are present at the Settlement prior to the first of May, -will be employed by the company according to article vin of the constitution, in preparing the Settlement for occupation. Im provements thus made Avill accrue to the benefit of the whole company. 11. All claims taken up by members previous to the first of May, 1856, will be understood, in honor, as subject to the adjustment to take place on that day ; but all improvements made by individuals on such claims will be paid for by the company, according to a fair A-aluation, either in cash or stock, Avhen ever said claims are required in general distribution to be donated to other members.

The appraisers to be elected hy the members of the company in the same way as other officers. 12. When a sufficient sum of money shall have been received, the directors Avill proceed to make preparations for early spring emigration, and such members as intend going first will be communicated with as to the best route and where to meet the di rectors. This is the plan of action which Ave are prepared in good faith to carry out in accordance Avith the provisions of the constitution, which have already received the approval of the members. We need not remind you that the profits and advantages Avhich may be realized will accrue to all on the mutual principle, and that the scrip given in exchange for the payments will be exchangeable at the Settlement for proA'isions, use of teams, lumber and other valu able considerations, rendering said scrip equal to bank notes as currency in the Settlement.

The success of the undertaking must noAv depend upon the promptness With Avhich this circular is responded to by each member and by friends. Those Avho can spare more than fifty cents on each share are requested to send loans, and those Avho cannot pay the full interest are requested to send as much as they can spare, so that ample provision can be made for the early settlers. Mechanics, lumbermen, carpenters, iron-Avorkers and laborers will be sure of good employment in the Settlement as early as weather AY,ill permit operations to commence in the Spring of 1856, and they can, by their labor, become stockholders in the company. All whose labor shall exceed in value the amount due on their shares, will be paid interest for any amount they may loan the company, in the same way as capitalists.

All shareholders who shall pay up the first and second installments in or before the month of January, 1856, will be entitled to be regarded as aniono the founders of the Settlement ; their names Avill be applied to the avenues or streets adjoining their re spective farms, as far as practicable, and they will be entitled, according to the date of receipts for the first installment of ten cents per share, to preference in the distribution of lots in May, 1856. The directors do not pledge themselves to sell any AVENT TO KANSAS. 19 shares for as Ioav as $5 per share after January 31st, 1856, as, the location being favorable, there is no doubt but shares Avill rise rapidly in price. It is not improbable that after January 31st, shares will be raised to double their present price. Members will be careful not to communicate the contents of this circular to any but knoAvn and trust Avorthy friends of the enterprise, as the precise location ought not to be publicly known, until all the claims required by the company are taken.

We have thus far executed the trust reposed in us, and Ave pledge ourselves to a further faithful per formance of our duties, as directors, and to deA'ote our capital and personal attention to the company and its best interests to the full extent of our ability and judgment. It is a work in Avhich Ave all feel deeply and equally interested, believing that it is calculated to form a nucleus of true reforms in the centre of our republic, such as must exercise an un precedented influence for good in the future. We call upon you as members and friends, to each and all do your part, and to remember that when we faithfully perform our duty Ave can rely on the all sustaining hand of Providence to prosper our under taking. The first effort is the most important one in securing the permanent success of the Settlement, and all who are friendly to the undertaking are re spectfully solicited to render their aid at the time specified, and not to Avait and see if Ave succeed, be fore they come forAvard with their assistance.

We ask no magnanimous liberality, but a generous busi ness co-operation of capital and labor, with a view to mutual interest and the general good of the cause. We have been frequently asked how can the com pany be assisted by persons who cannot actively unite with us ? We reply to every such inquirer : Find some trustworthy, enterprising young man, and purchase for him shares in the company, on condition that the loan shall be returned when the concern shall enable him to refund. Let printing presses, machine shops, sawing, plan ing and grist mills be established by members ; let sash factories, door factories and foundries be com menced; let coal mines, stone quarries and brick yards, with all the appliances of machinery, be start ed ; and above all, let the land be cultivated under the advantages by mutual aid, of capital, machinery and skill ; let orchards be planted and the various farm crops pursued in proper rotation, and with the growing demand of this new territory, and connect ing with the various channels of commerce, throwing the Avhole United States open as a market for its productions, there is good reason to beUeve that the Settlement will be in a most flourishing condition in the course of a few quickly passing, because busily occupied, years, and the lands now obtainable at the minimum government price of $1 25 per acre, will be worth from $25 to $50 and even $100 per acre ; while on the Octagon plan of settlement, every acre will be convertible into suitable building sites, the value of which cannot now be estimated.

No one can examine our list of members without being convinced that we have the elements of such a Settlement already belonging to our company. The brand of our settlement must ere long become a guarantee throughout the country of genuine and wholesome articles of diet. The advantages to families of having their children educated away from the ordinary incentives to Aace, Adcious company, vicious habits of eating and drinking, and other contaminations of old cities, must render the Vegetarian Settlement a most de sirable place of residence to all whose tastes are averse to those habits of gross indulgence which are degrading to mankind. Signed by the Directors, Chas. H. De Wolfe, John McLaueen, Henry S. Clubb. New York City, Dec. 1st, 1855. We can have, I think, good faith to believe, that our directors will fulfill on their part ; and we, as set tlers of a new country, by going in a company -will escape the hardships attendant on families going in singly, and at once find ourselves surrounded by im proving society in a young and flourishing city.

It Avill be better for ourselves pecuniarily, and better in the future for our children. My husband has long been a practical vegetarian, and we expect much from living in such a genial AVENT TO KANSAS. clime, where fruit is so quickly grown, and with peo ple whose tastes and habits Avill coincide with our own. Jan. 15th. — We are making every necessary preparation for our journey, and our home in Kansas. My husband has sold his farm, purchased shares in the company, sent his money as directed by H. S. Clubb, and will first go alone or will take his family right along, as he makes up his mind will be for our happiness, comfort and health. My husband is quite satisfied from what he can glean from the Tribune and other sources, that Kansas Avill soon be left to her quiet, and come in as a free State — so we haAre little fear about the " Border Ruffian Invasions," etc.