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Travels in the Interior of South Africa, comprising fifteen years' hunting and trading; with journeys across the continent from Natal to Walvisch Bay, and visits to Lake Ngami and the Victoria Falls ... Illustrated with maps and numerous engravings

James Chapman · 1868 · Scanned text

166,874 words · about 11 h 41 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
About this edition

Scanned text — may contain errors · original scans are not available here · view the original source

Licence: PDM · British Library Digitised Books dataset db14 (doi 10.21250/db14) marks the OCR texts CC Public Domain Mark 1.0 (c. 1510-c. 1900 publications); text+metadata JSONL release doi 10.23636/r7w6-zy15 is CC0 1.0. Public Domain Mark is a status label, not a new copyright licence. · Digitised by the British Library (with Microsoft). Text: British Library Digitised Books, CC Public Domain Mark 1.0.

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About this book

Author
James Chapman
Language
English
Published
1868
Length
166,874 words · about 11 h 41 min
Sections
23 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public Domain Mark 1.0

 

Contents (23)
  1. Front matter about 2 min
  2. Chapter I. Page under 1 min
  3. Chapter II under 1 min
  4. Chapter III under 1 min
  5. Chapter IV under 1 min
  6. Chapter V under 1 min
  7. Chapter VI under 1 min
  8. Chapter VII under 1 min
  9. Chapter VIII. Page under 1 min
  10. Chapter IX under 1 min
  11. Chapter X under 1 min
  12. Chapter XI under 1 min
  13. Chapter XII under 1 min
  14. Chapter XIII. Faqe under 1 min
  15. Appendix about 2 min
  16. Chapter I about 45 min
  17. Chapter II about 45 min
  18. Chapter III about 28 min
  19. Chapter IV about 1 h 2 min
  20. Chapter V about 43 min
  21. Chapter VI about 32 min
  22. Chapter VII about 44 min
  23. Chapter VIII about 6 h 34 min

Continue:

Front matter

TRAVELS IN THK INTERIOR OF SOUTH AFRICA. VOL. LONDON: PfUNTF.D BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET AND CHASING CROS.S, Frontispiece, \'or-. II. I'lIOTOURAI'HY UNDER DIFFICULTIES. TEAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF SOUTH AFRICA, COMPRISING Jfifken gms1 punting anrr Crafting; WITH JOURNEYS ACROSS THE CONTINENT PROM NATAL TO WALVISCH BAY, AND VISITS TO LAKE NGAMI AND THE VICTORIA PALLS. F.Y JAMES CHAPMAN, F.E.G-.S. ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS AND NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: BELL & DALDY, YORK STREET, COVENT GARDEN; EDWARD STANFORD, 6, CHARING- CROSS. MDCCdLXVIII. ERRATA TO VOL. II. Page 16 for " M. horridicus " read " Mimosa htirr'ida." 73 for " Nucifera " read " Cucifera." „ 136 for " Crucifera" read " Cucifera." „ 170 for " Rhin. Sinusus " read " Rhin.

Simus." „ 353 for " Œdenamus " read " Œdicnemus." „ 356 for " Protincola " read " Pratincola.' „ 407 for " Nectarina " read " Nectarinia." „ 409 for " Hirundo rupestrio " read " Hirundo rupestris." ., 416 for " Tringa Squatavola " read " Tringa Squatnrola." ., 446 for "31 imneops " read "Mimusops." „ 447 for " Poivrea prasteosa" read " Poivrea bracteosa.'' „ ., for " Catta " read " Calla.'' ,, „ for " Arduicia " read " Arduina." „ 448 for " Aleophila " read " Ahophila." „ „ for " Todex " read " Todea." „ ,, for " Oreodapsliice" ie&& " Oreodaphne." „ 449 for " Oncolea " read '• Oneoba." „ ,, for " Violariae " read " Violariæ." ,, 450 for " Japindus " read " Sapindus." „ ,, for " Caladendron" read " Calodendron." ,, „ for " Myarisin " read " Myaris." „ 451 for " Dicrostachus " read " Vierostachys." „ 452 for " Lorunthus" read" Loranthus," „ ,, for " Eugeina " read " Eugenia." „ 453 for " Grapshalium " read " Gnaphalium." „ ,, for " Brehumia" read " Brehmia." ,, „ for " Ardrima " read " Ardruina." ,, „ for " Mucaria " read " Vncaria." ,, „ for " Scrophulariceæ" read " Scrophulariaceæ." „ „ for " Supotaceæ " read " Sapotaceæ." „ „ for " Solariceæ" read " Solanaceæ." „ 456 for " Iparaxis " read " Sparaxis." ,, „ for " jlxj'sfea " read " Aristea." ,, ,, for " JHoroca " read " Moræa." „ 457 for " Sycopodiums" read" Lycopods." „ „ for " L. quidiodes " read " L. gnidioides." „ „ for " Commelinoceæ " read " Commelinaceæ." „ 464 for " Kraussanianuns " read " Kraussanianus." „ „ for " Calpurnia laziogyne " read " Calpurnia lasiogyne." „ „ for " Chatachme " read " Chætachme." „ „ for " Dalbergia abovata " read " Dalbergia obovata." „ „ for " Eucleu " read " Euclea." „ „ for " Gardinia " read " Gardenia." „ ,, for " Kigelia pinata" read" Kigelia pinnata." „ 465 for " Sclerveroton integrefolius" read " Sclerocroton integrifoh'us. „ „ for " Sizygijium" read" Syzygium." „ „ for " Sclerorya " read " Sclerocarya." „ „ for " Zizyphm macranata " read " Sizyphus murronatus."

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

Chapter I. Page

Journey to Kopjies — Native Forms of Grief — Leave for the Lake — Its present Aspect — Native Stork — Violent Thunder-storm — Letters from my Brother — Return to Koobie — An Elephant-hunt — An unexpected Pleasure — Plan of future Proceedings — Mortality among Dogs — Storks — Edible Gourds — Journey Northwardly — Encounter with hostile Bushmen — Elephants at Sleepy Hollow — The Teouge Valley — A fruitless Chase — Charge of Elephants — Tbe Horned Snake — The Ovampos — Back to Union Valley — New Year's Vley .. 1

Chapter II

At the Kopjies again — Proceed to the Botletlie River — Tree-Snakes — Ostriches — the Quabie Hills — Mortality among the Dogs — Native Fruits — Occupations of Natives — -Native Conjurors— Move to the Eastward — Native Trees — Makhato's Village — Native Turtle — Eagles — Atmospheric Phenomena — Contributions to Natural History — Elephants again — Salt-pans — Mirage — Gradual Desiccation of the Country .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 32

Chapter III

Large Baobab Tree — Gnus— Encounter with Rhinoceros — Palm Trees — Morals and Manners of the Bushmen — Advance to the Zambesi — Tsagobye — The Ntwetwe Salt-pan — Roan Antelopes — Native Hunt- CONTENTS. VI PAGE ing pits — Formation of the Ngami Basin — Bushmen — Tree-Lizards — Lion-killing .. .. .. .. .. .. •■ ..63

Chapter IV

Metsi-botuko— The Salt Lake and Ntwetwe Basins — Poison-shrub— Puff- Adders — Watering-places in the Desert — Tsamafupa — Seringa Forests — Approach to the Zambesi Basin — Daka — Interview with Makalakas — The Sable Antelope — Native Customs — Final Start for the " Falls " — Difficulties of Approach — First view of the " Falls " —The Goal reached— Our Camp at the " Falls " 83

Chapter V

The Local Chief, or Head-man — Second Visit to the Falls — Scenery of the Zambesi — 'Garden Island — Hippopotami — -The Kalai Rapids — Mode of Life at the Falls — The Masoe River — Umboopo's Village — The Makololo — Prospects of Trade — Leave the Falls — The Keyzie River— Destruction of Elephants .. .. .. .. .. 125

Chapter VI

Return to Daka — Native Honey —Adventures with Rhinoceros — Start , * for Sinamani's — Watershed — Reach the Boana River — Makalaka Singing — Native Smithy — Makalaka Customs — Ravages of Lions — Increasing Heat — White and Black Ants — Wasps — A Makalaka Village — Hunting Excursions — Various Species of Rhinoceros — Adventure with Buffaloes — Start again for the River . . . . 155

Chapter VII

Start for Sinamani's — A Whirlwind — Mazhanga — A Leopard Trap — The Kakobi, or Little Zambesi — Machinge' — Geological Features — The Matietsie — Reach the Zambesi again — Wankie — Camp at the Zambesi — Perplexities of our Situation — The Gwai or Quagga River — Meeting of the Waters — Hippopotami— Intense Heat— The Zambesi Valley — Native Plants— Population of the Zambesi Valley — Reach Sinamani's — Interview with the Chief .. .. .. CONTENTS. VII

Chapter VIII. Page

Rain-Doctors — Matabele Outrages — Return to the Gwai — Scenery of the Gwai Valley — Geological Conditions — A Buffalo Chase — Rhinoceros — Tsetse again — The Batonga Language — Musical Performances — " God Save the Queen !" — Native Cookery — Difficulties with our Followers — Progress of the Boat-building — Logier Hill — The Luluesi River — -Mourning for the Dead — Crocodiles abundant — Baboons — New Quagga — Reach the Wagons — Results accomplished to the Present Time .. .. 208

Chapter IX

Hunting for both Establishments — Native Bees — Effects of Rain — Native Insects — Fishes — Wasps' Nests — Crocodile Pond — Serious Accident to one of our Followers — A Surgical Operation — Continued Bad Weather — Fireflies — Lizards — Stinging Ants — Fear of the Tsetse again — Carnivora of South Africa — End of the Year 1862 229

Chapter X

Progress of the Boat-building — Continued Illness — Our Distressed Condition — More Sickness— Knob-noses — Disasters at the Boat-building Establishment — Resolve on moving the Wagons — The Tsetse again — Send for Baines — Night Attack of Wolves — Meteorological Phenomena — Distant Smoke-Cloud of the " Falls " — Baines arrives from the River — Abandonment of the Camp on the Zambesi — Sufferings among the Men — Move to the Westward — Weather Observations — Increasing Distresses — Difficulties of the return Journey — Native Credulity — At Daka again .. .. .. 252

Chapter XI

The Camp at Daka — Native Flora — Night Encounter with Lions — I Damara Superstitions — Makalaka Customs — Abundance of Native I Vegetation — Progress Westward— At Juruga — Native Fruits and >" Insects — Characteristics of the Desert — Small-pox . . . . . . 278

Chapter XII

Mirage — Native Salt — Reach the Botletlie River — Ford at Sarnaganga's — Makato's Village — Boat Voyage on the Botletlie — Changes in the Ngami Basin — At Lechulatebe's Town — The Author's Brother arrives at the Lake — His Disasters — Projects for the Future — Proceed from the Lake to Otjimbengue .. .. .. .. CONTENTS.

Chapter XIII. Faqe

From Otjimbengue to Walvisch Bay — Geological Observations — Air-plants — Wilson's Fountains — Limit of Sea-Fog — Hykanigoub — Return to the Interior — At Otjimbengue again — Residence at the Schwagoup — Remove into the Hottentot Country — Interview with Jan Jonker — Proceed again to the Bay — The Kaan Valley — Native Politics — Engagement between Damaras and Africaners — Start again for the Interior — Final Determination to leave the Country — Voyage to Cape Town .. .. .. .. .. .. 316

Appendix

. Descriptive Notes of Animals of Intertropical South Africa 333 Descriptive Notes of some of the Birds of Intertropical South Africa .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 345 Index to descriptive Notes of South African Birds .. .. 429 Remarks on Insects .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 435 Notes on Trees, &c, of the Zambesi .. .. .. .. 438 The Baobab .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 441 Rough Notes on the Flora of Natal .. .. .. .. 445 Lecture on the Botany of Natal, by Rev. E. Armitage, M.A. 458 List of Natal Trees .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 464 Geological Notes on the Line of Route from the West Coast to the Copper Mines in the interior of Damara Land .. 466 Heights by Boiling Water .. .. .. .. .. .. 467 Distances by the Wagon Road from Walvisch Bay t > Lake Ngami .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 467 List of Heights from Colesberg, in the Cape Colony, to Barmen, in Damara Land .. .. .. .. .. 468 Hints to Travellers .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 469 Notes on the Damara Language .. .. .. .. ..

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II. PAGE Photography under Difficulties .. .. .. Frontispiece Council of War at Lake Ngami: Mahalakoe addressing the Multitude .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 9 Deserted by my Horse .. .. .. .. .. .. 22 A Bechuana Warrior (from a Drawing by Charles Bell, Esq.) . . 49 Inside of Makato's Village, Botletlie River : Implements, &c. 51 Slaying a White Rhinoceros .. .. .. .. ..69 The Victoria Waterfall from the West End, with the Leaping Water in the Foreground .. .. .. .. ..113 Voyaging down the Zambesi.. .. -. .. .. .. 131 View looking East from the Garden Island, in the Middle of the Falls.. • .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 134 Middle of the Falls .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 152 Rhinoceros Mohtjgu, and Horn of the supposed Kobaoba .. 171 One of Wankie's Wives .. .. .. .. .. ..186 Brilliant Meteor on ■ the Zambesi River . . . . . . . . 205 The New Quagga .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 223 View near the Zambesi. — Troop of Quaggas .. .. .. 265 Walvisch Bay, with the Sand-Hills in the Distance .. 329 I

Chapter I

Journey to Kopjies — Native Forms of Grief — Leave for the Lake — Its present Aspect — Native Stork — Violent Thunder-storm — Letters from my Brother — Return to Koobie— An Elephant-hunt — An unexpected Pleasure — Plan of future Proceedings — Mortality among Dogs — Storks — Edible Gourds — Journey Northwardly — Encounter with hostile Bushmen — Elephants at Sleepy Hollow — The Teouge Valley — A fruitless Chase — A Charge of Elephants — The Horned Snake — The Ovambos — Back to Union Valley — New Year's Vley. Saturday, 23rd November, 1861. — We started for the Kopjies, which we reached next day, having had heavy rain during the journey. On the morrow I was out on foot from sunrise till sunset, and must have walked 30 miles, but got nothing in the shape of game, excepting one fennec and one guinea-fowl.

It is amusing to observe the figure some of our people cut in their ragged garments. We keep those about tlie wagons respectably clothed, but the herdsmen and their wives are also ambitious to figure in castaway rags. I bring my old clothes from town to wear out here, after which I gave them to the head-men, who valued them highly. From them they pass, and after a good deal of further wear and tear, to the VOL. II. B [chap. i. leaders ; and when the latter consider them worn out, they hand them over to inferiors. Sometimes the women get hold of them, and out of the remains of a pair of trousers make an apron, their only garment, or a turban. To-day I noticed a pair of Baines's old drill trousers on a man : but a very small part consisted of the drill, the rest being made up by a patchwork of rags most indefatigably stitched together, and comprising, besides the drill, serge, flannel, gunny-bag, coffee sacking, calico, moleskin, and canvas.

Both Damaras and Hottentots look well in their native costume, but I was shocked at the sight of a native woman in her proper dress, and wearing a pair of my cast-off boots. I asked Snyman, whom I had seen at Sekeletu's in 1853, why their chief attacked Lechulatebe at that time. He says it was only to obtain cattle, and amongst themselves they never pretended that it was for anything else. They had plundered, as he boasted to me, all the tribes round there, and there was no pdace for them to go that was so near. They were seriously planning an attack on Sekomi, in the south, when Dr. Livingstone dissuaded them from so rash an enter prise, and that decided them on making this inroad on Lechulatebe's territory. Lechulatebe has now killed twenty of Sekeletu's men, who came to levy taxes upon people on the Tamalukan.

Tliursday, 28th. — I sent John off early this morning to hunt elephants. He returned at night, having seen plenty of fresh spoor ; but his boy had lost himself, with the water and provisions, and he was obliged to return. I found water five miles to the north-west, this being in the course we have laid down for our expedition on leaving Quarantine vley. The lemur is now quite lively. He is fond of milk and sugar, and soft gruel. The little animal was tame from the time he was caught. He gives his head to be scratched and jumps about on our hands and faces. He notices every CHAP. I.] A SAVOURY DISH. 3 change made in the wagon, and is then a little bewildered, not eating his supper so freely ; but after putting out the light I always hear him munching. In order to give my brother time to overtake us, we will meanwhile, when we have rain-water enough for the purpose, endeavour to explore 300 miles of the country across the desert north-west to Andersson's last point.

We shall leave one wagon and most of the cattle somewhere within 50 miles of this. Monday, 2nd December. — The chiefs messengers leave us. Finished and mounted an axle (of motseara wood), on which John has been long at work, for one of the wagons. Baines ate a frog : the dish was as savoury as it was delicate, the roe being considered the best part. Next day we packed the wagons for a start to the lake on the morrow, but at night again found three head of cattle and a calf showing symptoms of lung-sickness. Thursday, 5th December. — At the moment when the oxen were brought up to be inspanned, old Dikkop's wife came running over in deep distress, saying her husband was dying. I was absent at the time, but went to see him as soon as I heard of it. I have not witnessed such a distressing spectacle for a long time, if ever.

The women had carried him out into the bushes to die, and were all squatted round him, howling a most doleful and melancholy dirge, bathing and chafing his hands, while he lay insensible, with his head resting on his wife's lap, only giving occasional signs of life by a laboured gasp. I felt much concerned for him ; he is one of the most trustworthy men I have, and has charge of all the cattle. He had been hurt at Elephant's Kloof, his shoulder and ankle being sprained while inoculating cattle ; but what the present attack is I do not know, unless there be some internal hurt in the left breast, near the root of the shoulder, where he has pain. Having given him chloric b CHAPMAN'S TRA VELS. [CHAP. I. ether, and had his feet warmed with hot stones, he came to, and I applied a mustard poultice to the seat of pain.

The man had evidently been in a swoon. This wailing and din of the Damaras round the sick man reminded me of a practice I had witnessed amongst the Zulus, who, having stunned a buck with their kerries, squatted round it, and beat their sticks one against the other, over the body of the insensible animal. It often revives, only to be knocked down again I witnessed the same practice over a fowl, which I had accidentally stunned with a stone, and the bird revived. The Damaras, as well as the Beach Hottentots in South-western Africa, practise this rite over the dying with some mysterious reference, it may be supposed, to the departing spirit — not to bring it back to life again ; though in such a case of suspended animation as poor Dikkop's — like that of the Zulu buck and fowl — the din might serve the latter purpose.

We are now drinking water that almost resembles porridge in its consistency, and it will not filter. Our people, too, are falling sick of fever, one after the other, five being on the sick-list, and two of them seriously ill. There is no more water here for the cattle, so we must make a move somewhere. Some messengers now arrived from the lake. The chief seems to be getting out of patience at our long delay, though he is himself to blame for it. He requested me to stay here, or we should have gone on before our people got ill, and the water became so scarce. He now sends to say how his heart is pained at not seeing us, and has commissioned a little Bushman, famous for his flattering eloquence, to pour out such a stream of sweet words that I could not hear him out, being nearly choked with laughter before he got very far in his speech.

I gathered, however, its drift, to this effect : " I am afraid you are going off to some other tribes ; prav come here, and let me get what I can out of you first, and CHAP. I.] A HONEYED MESSAGE. 5 then you may go to ." This sentiment lies at the bottom of all his honeyed words. He says : " Who has dared to stop you, my friend ? Why do you not come near me, that I may see you, and hold sweet converse, as in former times ? All my other white friends have left me ; you alone remain. I must cherish you. I say again, WTho has dared to stop you ? Have you heard the lies of slaves, and believed them ? Do not believe I will turn my only friend off. The country belongs to you ; come ! Lung-sickness, or no lung-sickness, come !" We left the Kopjies ou the 6th of December with one wagon, intending to go only as far as the moana (baobab) tree, 16 miles off, but when we got there next day there was no water, and so we were obliged to push on, and reached Masellenyani at night, where the wagon stuck in a sand-hill.

Baines and I having gone forward, we were overtaken at 9 or 10 o'clock at night by a tremendous storm of thunder and lightning, but without much rain. We were obliged, how ever, to roll ourselves up in dry bullock-hides to save a wetting, and then go back at midnight to join the wagon. If the rain had left any pools we should have made our camp here, a few miles from the water, but it did not, so on Sunday morning we went on to the lake. I have never seen the country about so dry as it is now. We were obliged to travel two miles along the coast before we got any water for ourselves and our thirsty cattle. The Bechuanas who accom panied us stay with us, but they sent a messenger to inform the chief of our arrival. We hear that all the native cattle have been driven from their stations to clear the way for us.

We made our beds in the tent, and at night a storm of rain fell and continued several hours, and drove us out, but not before we and our bedding had got thoroughly wet. The little lemur is now very playful and tame. As soon as the CHAPMAN'S TRA VELS. [CHAP. I. 6 candle is lit at night he leaps about after the moths and insects attracted by it. I often amuse myself by catching for him those beyond his reach, and he seems perfectly to enter into the spirit of the thing, and to be sensible of the kindness shown him. We encamped near a thick spreading camel-thorn tree, called the Christmas tree, with dark shade underneath. Some pack-oxen were grazing near, and I sent to urge their drivers to remove them out of our way. A party of Bushmen and others arrived with "six boats, to convey me to the town, along with any goods I may have to dispose of, my wagou and cattle to remain where they are.

The chief sent word that he could not get away, the women having " tied him up " to make rain first. I sent to say, " I came here at his entreaty to meet him half way at this place, and would not separate myself from my wagons and party. My road lay by his door, and I would wait until he has made the rain." I have never seen the lake so dry before. The boatmen could not find a landing, owing to the mud, and had to land 10 miles off. Our cattle had great difficulty in getting a drink the first day. Fortunately the rain has since fallen, or we would have had to send back. The Damaras now got plenty of plums (morotonogoe) and motlope berries to eat. The south banks of the lake are thickly studded wdth the "wait-a-bit" (real) camel-thorn, another thorn with large upright pods, mochuerie, motseara, and motlope, plums, and other trees.

The wait-a-bit is in full bloom, but the leaves are all riddled by the number of bees and insects piercino and devouring them, and making a constant buzzino-. I found some peculiar beetles, with claws at the point of the feet, also a green fish-eating beetle. Pelicans are plentiful on the water ; the insects are making a constant noise, and are very troublesome at night. A kind of black and white stork is strutting about in great numbers, feeding on termites. CHAP. I.] AT LAKE NGAMI AGAIN. 7 14th December. — Still no signs of the Damaras sent to Amraal's. As they have been away five weeks I am anxiously awaiting their return, in hopes of their bringing tidings of my brother, upon whose assistance all my hopes now depend. The present state of suspense is intolerable. One misfortune has succeeded another to stay our advance, and nowr, when we at last see our way clear to the passing Lechulatebe's Town, lung-sickness again appears amongst our cattle.

We have slaughtered and hidden three within the last four days, burning the carcases at night ; and there are four others showing symptoms of the disease. If I hear nothing to morrow I will myself go to the town on foot. The rafts used on Lake Ngami are of two sorts. The one, a reed raft, is made by tying a large number of reeds together in a bundle, sufficient to support the party. The other kind, known as a rush-raft, is made by throwing bulrushes, which are very buoyant, promiscuously together in the water, and the lower ones, owing to their buoyancy, press upwards, and so on ; the more that is added the more buoyant the raft. Any weight coming on top presses it down flat, so that it never sinks deep, owing to the great pressure from beneath. I have crossed the lake two or three times in native canoes at the broadest part.

The natives prefer going right across, in the larger canoes, but when they see the wind coming up they keep in-shore for fear of filling. 16</i December. — This evening, just before sunset, a few clouds came from the north, and a heavy storm from the south. They met, and clashed over the wagon. The thunder and lightning were terrific. The first flash struck au island of green reeds about a mile from us, which in an in stant was in a blaze, the flames leaping twenty and thirty feet high in the air. We thought at first it was some signal made by the natives, but there was no appearance of any people. The reeds continued to burn for an hour or more. [CHAP. I. CHAPMAN'S TRAVELS. 8 Monday, 16th.— John shot a vulture and a grey lory. I photographed the morotonogoe (plum). The Bushmen and other natives press an oil from the seeds of the fruit.

All the people are fond of eating them. They swallow the whole, except the skin, which is the best way of eating them, if you have a good digestion. These trees have rigid sharp spines, not perfect thorns, which, increasing, throw out others, and become branches themselves. There are several kinds. Tuesday, 11th. — Some messengers arrive to say that the chief, having now made an abundance of rain, will be at liberty to come, and will furnish us with guides to take us round, &c, but we are not to come to the town. I decline, however, to comply with these directions. Dupa (pastiles) is a great " medicine " with these people ; they believe it has awful powers. They learnt it from the Hot tentots, who had it from the Malays ; these use it as an incense. The chief sent particular messages that I was not to sell pastiles to anyone else, as he wishes for all I have.

He wants to cure a man who, they say, was bewitched by Dr. Holden's man with paralysis on one side, because he stole an axe, and they believe that with the aid of dupa they can do everything, gratify any desire, conquer any love, however stubborn, and triumph over any enemy, however strong. These are the stories told them by unprincipled people, who thus obtain ivory under false pretences. Next morning, I missed a tu.sk of ivory, which was stolen in the night by our visitors. I threatened they should not go until they brought my tusk. The man I suspected, with all his followers, has, however, already taken his departure, so I keep his gun until the tusk is restored. I sent the chief some tea. At the lake, on the 19th of December, 1861 : Therm. 84^° Fahr. Water boils 206-m. Monday, 23rd.— The chief came with a large retinue of CHAP. I.] CHRISTMAS DA Y. 9 200 or 300 men, armed with guns and spears, a very unusual proceeding ; their appearance was rather imposing.

I decline trading until he pays his debts, which he did, but cheated dreadfully towards the end. 25th December. — The day was half spent before we were aware that it was Christmas. We were packing up botanical specimens for Sir William Hooker at the time, as I intend sending John with one wagon-load of ivory, &c, and letters, to Damara Land, while we go east, and wait. Haying COUNCIL OF WAR AT LAKE NGAMT * MAITALAKOE ADDRESSING THE MULTITUDE. started two days later, he returned after a couple of hours in great haste, and hardly able to speak from excitement. He had met the Damaras returning from my brother with letters, and brought them on to ascertain whether the con tents would alter my plans, and most fortunate it was that I did not go off in the morning, as I had intended. We cannot push on now that we hear my brother is on the road, although at present he is prevented by the Hottentots from coming on.

As some of our people are ill of fever, we pro- CHAPMAN'S TRAVELS. [chap. I. 10 pose going back to Koobie, and waiting there for my brother. He must come on, although the Hottentots say that until I come to answer for having brought them the lung-sickness he will not be allowed to pass. By this communication, I get letters from my friends at home, which make me much happier ; but the surprise is almost too much for me. The news was varied. Lamert had caught one of the thieves who stole our horses, and recovered, it is said, five of them ; but Gert, with the best horse, is still away, aud one had died My brother sent me three horses, but one had died on the road. Amongst other mournful intelligence was that of the death of Dr. Holden, for whom I entertained a great regard. He died of fever taken while administering medical aid to the many poor Damaras who followed him.

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