Six Months in India

Front matter

INDIA VOL. I. LONDON : PRINTED BT SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE AND PARLIAMENT STREET T-KOM-AN OBIGIHAL FAINTING BY BRIGGS. R.A SIX MONTHS IN INDIA. BV MARY CARPENTER. AUTHOR OF * OCR CONVICTS,' ' LAST DATS OF RAMMOHCX ROY,' ETC. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 1868. TO £ty Ijoittrartb PEmorg ni- THE RAJAH RAMMOHUN ROY, THE GREAT REFORMED OF INDIA, WHO FIRST EXCITED IN THE AUTHOR'S MIND A DESIRE TO BENEFIT HIS COUNTRY, Ebcst J-lohimts ARE RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.

Preface

. It was not mt intention, when I went to India, to write an account of my travels : my visit was purely one of friendly sympathy. Circumstances recorded in the following narrative, led me to modify my original intention, and greatly extended my sphere of observation. The light afforded me by my past experience, as well as the sympathy in my work of the Supreme Go vernment and that of each Presidency, and the friendly confidence of the native inhabitants, enabled me, in my brief visit, to see and learn much which does not usually come under the notice of travellers. Every thing, invested with the charm of novelty, produced a very vivid impression on my mind ; and though I had no time while in the country to record in writing man}7 of these impressions, yet I had peculiar opportunities of comparing them with those of official gentlemen, and of experienced residents in the country, and thus of correcting or strengthening them.

On my return to England, it appeared to those who are most desirous to benefit India, that an important means of drawing attention to that great country

PREFACE.

. would be lost, if I did not record my observations and impressions for publication. On reflection, I accorded with this opinion, and now respectfully offer to my countrymen and countrywomen these volumes for their kind consideration. I must crave from my readers some indulgence for the many defects they will discover, in consideration of the fact that, during my preparation of the work, my attention has been forcibly claimed for the various institutions under my care, some of which had suffered from my absence. Red Lodge Hovse, Bristol February 5, 1868. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I. The Outward Voyage

PAGE Malta 5 Alexandria .... 7 The Red Sea . . . . 9 Aden 11 Alarm of Fire at Sea . . 17 I PAGE Arrival at Bombay . . 18 Official Letters ... 24 The First Journey . . 26 Surat . . . . .31 Arrival at Ahmedabad . . 34

Chapter II. Ahmedabad And Its Institutions

Tropical Vegetation . . 39 Animated Nature . . .41 Court of Justice ... 42 The Jail .... 48 A Girls' School ... 53 High School .... 55 Visits of Native Ladies . . 57 Normal Training School . 58 Lunatic Asylum ... 61 Native and English Inhabitants 63 VOL. I. Needof Female Normal .Schools 64 Soiree of Hindoo Ladies . G9 Hindoo Dinner-part}- . . 70 Picnic at Sirkhej . . .71 Tomb of Shah Alum . .74 Jain Temple . . • .75 Widow Remarriages . . 76 Reformatory Schools . . 77 Native Christian Mission Station . .... 78 a CONTENTS OF THE X CHAPTER SURAT, BOMBAY, PAGE History of Surat ... 83 Watering-place . . .85 English Cemetery ... 86 Girls' School .... 89 Soiree of Hindoo Ladies . 90 Morning Reception of English and Natives . . .93 Native Inspectors . . .94 Mission Chapel and Station . 95 The Jail .... 98 Arrival at, Bombay . . 99 Anglo-Indian Residence . 100 The Cocoanut . . .101 The Jail . . . .103 III.

AND POONA. TAGE Mission Boarding School for Girls 106 Journey over the Bhore Ghaut Incline .... 107 Government and Mission Schools .... 109 Mission Boarding iSehool for Girls 113 The Jail . . . .115 Heathen Temple on Parbati Hill 117 Baptisms at Mission Chapel . 119 Female Normal Training School . . . .120

Chapter IV. Madras

Parsee Dinner-party . . 127 Voyage to Beypoor . . 128 The Journey. . . .129 Arrival at Madras . . .130 Mission Schools . . . 133 Presidency College . .139 Mahometan School . .141 Military Orphan Asylum . 143 Vepery College . . . . 145 Conference withNative Gentlemen 148 The Hospital . . .150 Museum .... 151 School of Industrial Arts . 152 Visit from Native Gentleman and Lady . . . 155 Veda Somaj . . . .156 Cathedral . . . .159 The Monsoon . 160 Departure from Madras . FIRST VOLUME, XI

Chapter V. Calcutta, Page Page

The Ganges . . . .164 The Landing. . . . 166 The City . . . .167 Religious Movement . .169 Rajah Rammohun Roy . .170 Keshub Chunder Sen . .179 Brahmo Prayer Meeting . 180 Native City . . . .181 Tea-party of Native Gentlemen and Ladies . . .183 Mission Schools . . .185 Church Female Normal School 187 Zenana Teaching . . .188 Bethune Girls' School . .189 Country Missionary Excursion 190 Visit to Heathen Temple . 195 Brahmo Worship . . .19" Medical College . . .199 Alipore Jail . . . 200 Female Prison . . . 202 Lunatic Asylum . . . 203 Institutions .... 203 School for Neglected Children 207 Christmas Day . . . 209 Female Normal School . .213 Social Science Association . 218 Drawing Room . . . 220

Chapter VI. The Suburbs Of Calcutta

Bishop's College . . .223 Horticultural Gardens . . 224 Howrah . . . .227 Bhowanipore . . .231 Serampore .... 234 Konnegur .... 236 CHAPTER FAREWELL TO CALCUTTA- Bamabodhini Shova . .271 Departure from Calcutta . 273 Arrival at Madras, Guindy Park 275 Female Normal School Memorial .... 277 Native Address . . . 280 Veda Somaj . . . .281 Mission Chapel . . . 282 Ooterparrah .... 239 Native Public Library . . 244 Burranagore . . . .248 Ranaghat .... 255 Kishnaghur . . . .257 The Jail . . . .266 VII. _ — MADRAS — CALICUT. Triplicane .... 284 Monegar Choultry . . 286 Address at Evangelistic Hall and at Patcheappah Hall . 289 Coimbatore .... 290 Calicut 292 The Jail . . . .296 Industrial Exhibition . .

Chapter I. The Outward Voyage

— ARRIVAL IN INDIA THE FIRST JOURNEY. Wednesday, Sept. 5, 1866. — We went on board the ' Syria,' and soon steamed off from Marseilles. We now felt we were actually en route for India. The bay looked very glorious, surrounded by the old historic city, the Massilia of the ancient Romans. This entrance from the East to civilised Europe has not been standing still during the two thousand years in which its name has been known as a fine harbour ; and though some of the streets we traversed on the preceding day were dingy and unpromising enough, yet we were well rewarded for spending a few hours in exploring the city, by observing splendid new rows of buildings, handsome broad streets arranged so as to terminate with some fine monument, beautiful drives, and lovely public gardens, in which advantage was so skilfully taken of the natural features of the site, as to lead one on, almost insensibly, to a splendid view over the city to the surrounding country, bounded by the graceful outline of blue hills or mountains.

The spirit of the imperial capital seemed spreading here, and gave one a striking impression of VOL. i. B tbe power which made itself felt even in the new buildings of this distant part of the empire. As we steamed swiftly along, we saw disappear, one after another, the buildings we had visited on the preceding day ; the hills faded from us so quickly that the pencil could scarcely catch their outline. Then a bold rocky coast succeeded — cliffs bright and glistening in the sunlight, with a clear azure sky above, and washed below by the blue waters of the Mediterranean. Their fantastic turreted forms looked like actual castles crowning some steep massive rock, such as are seen on the banks of the glorious Rhine. One longed to stay and take a nearer view of them, and penetrate the caverns at their base ; but we passed swiftly on : the forms of the cliffs and the rocky islets were changing their relative positions perpetually, and we had scarcely time to make simple outline sketches of them, before they receded from our view.

We had now bid adieu to the shores of Europe. Very different feelings must have animated the various passengers who were now to be our companions until our arrival at Alexandria. Several were gentle men who had some official position in India and who were returning to their duties, with or without their families; others were going out for the first time on engagements of different kinds. Our own small party was composed of very various materials. I had been requested by a friend to take charge of a young Hindoo lady, the daughter of Dr. Goodeve Chuckerbutty, of Calcutta. He had become a Christian, and had sent his daughter to England for education. As she had been absent for six years, he was glad of this opportunity for her to come home, and the young lady herself was not a little rejoiced to return to her native land.

An estimable young Jewish lady, who was going to Bombay to meet her betrothed, placed herself under my care, and by her agreeable character added much to the pleasure of the voyage. We all had the escort of Mr. Monomohun Ghose, a Hindoo gentle man from Calcutta, who, after spending between four and five years studying in England, had been called to the Enghsh Bar. He was leaving with much regret the country where a new and civilised life had been opened to him ; where he had seen the natives of our marvellous island of Great Britain in their true light, and where he had received the courteous hospitality which we always desire to show to strangers. It was with many anticipations of difficulties, many fears of what he would have to encounter in his own land, and yet with hopes of being able to contribute something to the elevation of his countrymen, that he now bid adieu to the Western World, to the continent that had been the object of his earliest aspirations, which had been more than realised.

As for myself, the desire of many years was about to be gratified. The visit to England, now four-and-thirty years ago, of the Rajah Rammohun Roy, the first great reformer of his countrymen — the first who had publicly called on them to renounce idolatry and superstition, who had presented to them the ' Pre cepts of Jesus, the Guide to Peace and Happiness,' who had devoted his life to their elevation — had left an in delible impression on my mind; that impression was perpetuated by the circumstance that his mortal remains are deposited in the beautiful cemetery of Arno's Vale, near Bristol. Other duties and engagements had long called away my attention from India; but six years before, my interest in that great country had been re vived by a visit from a young Brahmin convert to B Christianity.

He had given, in a public lecture, so gra phic and fearful a picture of the condition of Hindoo women, as to lead me to form the solemn resolve to do something to ameliorate their condition, whenever an opening should present itself; if possible, to visit India whenever I should be able to do so, and, if I could do nothing more, extend to them the sympathy of an Eng lishwoman. The work which I had already undertaken for the neglected children of my own country, and espe cially the criminal children of my own sex, was not then sufficiently matured to be left with safety. But the visits of other Hindoo gentlemen to Bristol, the anxiety they manifested for the elevation of the women of India, together with their assurances that a visit from me to their people would be useful, decided me to un dertake the journey as soon as possible.

It is unneces sary to state the difficulties which had to be overcome, arising from the fears of friends, and the arrangements that required to be made to secure the safety of my work in my absence: all these did but increase the thankfulness and joy with which I found myself actually embarked on my enterprise, and inspired me with courage to surmount any future obstacles. Nothing of peculiar interest presented itself before we reached our first goal, Malta, for we passed by Sar dinia in the night, and did not catch a glimpse of Caprera, which we had longed to see. But every day the sea was so marvellously calm — such a lovely blue, so delicate and tender ! It was unlike anything I had seen before, though I had always thought previously that the waters washing the southern coast of my native Devon must transcend any others in beauty.

The fleecy clouds of the soft autumnal sky were ex quisitely reflected in it, and sometimes a sail in the distance carried on the eye to the horizon, which was often scarcely discernible, so nearly blended were the heavens above with the waters below. Each evening revealed other glories, for the moon cast her full splendour on the waters — a flood of liquid silver — and justified her title to be Empress of the Night; while Venus, with a loveliness all her own, threw her radiance over the sea, too bright to be obscured by the more powerful lustre of the moon. And as our beautiful vessel glided along with unerring course, her paddles left in the waters a double track of foam, which, receding even to the horizon, marked a pathway in the sea made by the marvel lous mind of man. It was well worth some few discomforts and difficul ties to have uninterrupted leisure to enjoy such beauty, and to be able to rise from it to Him who is the source of all !

However delightful a voyage may be, ship passengers do nevertheless eagerly hail the first sight of land. So did we the island of Malta. At first faintly discerned on the horizon, then a long strip of land, then the features of the country were clearly defined, and then — almost before we were prepared for it — tbe harbour of the famous town and fort of Valetta burst upon us. But there was no landing for us unfortunate beings ! Though our crew and passengers appeared quite free from any contagion, yet we had left some few undis puted cases of cholera at Marseilles, and we must not inflict on the island the danger of infection. Only those landed who bad reached their destination, and we did not envy their lot, as they would be subjected to all the annoyance and expense of performing quarantine.

We were not, however, doomed to complete disappointment, for the setting sun gave us one of the most brilliant effects that I have ever beheld. We may think the brilliancy of Turner's painting unnatural, poetical, and exaggerated, but none that I have ever seen exceeded this. The sun shed a rich golden light on the buildings at the entrance of the harbour, on the left side a little elevated and defended by a massive fort : on the right, rising in terraces up the steep cliff, was the city, crowned by the church of St. Paul, built by our good Queen Adelaide, the last spire we should see for many a day. All these were built of white stone, and, with the forti fications rising behind them, looked dazzlingly brilliant as they reflected the rays of the setting sun. The soft blue sk}7 had melted by the most delicate gradations into a golden tint, so brilliant that it could be but faintly represented by the richest chromes ; these again melted into a roseate hue, and this again into tbe softest warm est grey possible, which relieved the buildings, and seemed to rest on the flood of glowing red below.

The water reflected the buildings above with such marvellous delicacy and exactitude, that Canaletti and even Turner would have confessed themselves quite un equal to the task of reproducing the effect on canvas. I felt it to be presumptuous to attempt to note it down in colours, yet the slightest memorial of such a scene is most valuable to the possessor. Sept. 9, Sunday morning. — The stewardess an nounced that it was a ' fresh morning.' It was bright and beautiful, as one loves to see a Sabbath at home, but the flitting clouds indicated a little more animation in the sea than was quite agreeable to some of us. The ship-bell took the place of church-bells, and we obeyed its summons to join in the worship, which was impressively conducted by our fellow-passenger, the Archdeacon of Calcutta.

Thus isolated from tbe rest of the world, and on the mighty waters, one feels peculiarly under the care of Him who rules them, and the prayers for those who are ' travelling by land or by sea ' have a deeper meaning to us. Alexandria. — Our first introduction to the Eastern World. The bay, surrounded by the city connected with so many old associations, was beautiful and glorious in the morning sun. But alas ! we were not permitted to see it any nearer than from our ship, as we were under ban, and two not very respectable-looking Egyptians came on board with soiled yellow ribbons, indicating that they were officers appointed to take care that the quarantine laws were strictly observed. They did not appear to have any repugnance to food forbidden by their religion, but rather glad of an opportunity of indulging in it freely without unpleasant surveillance ; they also invited some of the gentlemen to go on shore under their escort to see the city, on condition of ' backshish.' This of course was refused.

We were officially in formed that, as a great favour, we should be permitted to travel by night through Egypt in carriages specially provided for the purpose, and thus saved the necessity of remaining, at enormous expense and inconvenience, fourteen days in quarantine. There were no very pleasant prospects before us, as the most experienced of our fellow-passengers informed us. At decline of day we were put on shore, all communication with the inhabitants of Alexandria being strictly forbidden. We hoped that this prohibition would protect us from the officiousness of the rough Egyptian porters — but quite in vain. It was with difficulty that we protected our luggage and portable effects from them, as they crowded round us ; they, indeed, might have easily carried infection, if any was to be taken from us, into every part ofthe Pasha's dominions.

Our troubles, however, were not yet begun. To our dismay, we were then thrust into some long covered wooden vans, boarded almost to the top, and without windows, so that the only means of seeing anything of the country we passed through was to stand on the narrow seats, and look through a small round hole, or over the top of the boarding. This was our first introduction to Egypt, the land of ancient story, which had taken so important a place in the early civilisation of tbe world, and which was so remarkably associated with the religious history of the chosen people. The mere fact of being on that soil hallowed by so many sacred memories was most interesting, though we could not catch even a passing glimpse of the objects around us, except occasionally of Venus, our faithful attendant, who was now shedding her silver rays no longer over tbe sea but on a branch of the Nile.

But it was impossible thoroughly to enjoy even this, miser ably imprisoned as we were, the gentlemen in one van and the ladies -in another, and enjoined not to alight until we should arrive at Suez. One poor lady was very ill, and passed a night of agony on the narrow wooden benches, groaning piteously ; the poor children were of course full of discomfort, which they expressed after their own peculiar fashion — somefretfully, some pas sionately, in one very inharmonious chorus. No comfort, of any kind could be procured, few could obtain even short snatches of broken sleep. Thus we passed the night — we who had each paid our four pounds ten shillings for the transit through Egypt. At length daylight dawned, and having passed un knowingly by the Pyramids and Cairo, we found ourselves at the end of our journey, near Suez, and realised the idea of being actually in the East, when we noticed very shaggy -looking Egyptians go forth from their mud cabins to their daily occupations, or groups of travellers on camels, and saw around us the real ' sandy desert ' of the Israelites.

We carried away some sand as a trophy. Every thoughtful person who is for the first time on the Red Sea, and beholds the bare jagged mountain cliffs of the Sinaitic range, must feel inspired with in describable emotions. However the Scripture narrative may be viewed by different religionists, yet the simple fact that this region has been for thousands of years as sociated with marvellous events connected with the rise of revealed religion in the world, that the memories linked with that 'great and terrible wilderness' have ever been held sacred both by Jews and Mahometans as well as by Christians — all these recollections inspire the mind with feelings which cannot be expressed, and which draw off the thoughts from surrounding discomforts. The very Mount Horeb of the Ten Commandments cannot be seen from the ship, being too far inland, but the Sinaitic range looked very glorious as the setting sun shed bis rays on it.

The sky being of the richest hue far above the horizon, it will be easily imagined how very brilliant the rocks must have been to come out brightly as intense orange against it ; while the more distant range was of a soft delicate red, and the sea, which we had noticed in the morning as of a deep but vivid blue, was now a soft and warm grey. The Red Sea is generally the most dreaded part of the voyage, and tbe intense heat we should have to en counter was much feared for us by our friends. We were thus prepared for something very trying to our health. For myself I may bear witness that, looking back on this voyage now after my return home, I do not remember having found this part of it peculiarly unpleasant, nor do I recollect that those of our fellow passengers who had usually been on deck found it so either.

The cabins must have been extremely hot and oppressive, and we thankfully accepted the arrangement made for us by the captain, to separate off part of the deck for us ladies, that we, as well as the gentlemen, might pass the night there. It was very wonderful to look up from our lowly bed, and find ourselves canopied by the cerulean vault spargled with the brightest diamond stars imaginable, and to trace out our old familiar constellations in their changed places. But one passenger felt the heat more than she could bear. The poor invalid who had suffered so much in that dreadful night of the transit through Egypt was not to accompany her husband to the end of his voyage ; she became worse and worse, and expressed a presentiment which was strong in her mind that the Red Sea would te fatal to her.

Her young native servant was very assiduous in her attention to her sick mistress, and the ship's doctor did all he could. But one afternoon her husband was called away from the dinner-table; her sufferings were nearly ended — she soon breathed ber last. Early next morning we heard the tollingof the ship's bell, and knew that the last solemn ceremony was being performed of com mitting the mortal remains to the sea. We seldom saw again aDy of that party ; we all felt much for them. Sunday, Sept. 16. — Again a Sabbath on thew7ater! After breakfast all the ship's crew are assembled on deck in clean Sunday trim, to have the roll called over. We had now a number of Hindoo sailors on board, and their gay clothing was varied and picturesque: some clean white garments gave a brilliancy to their dark complexions, and we should hardly have recognised them as the same persons whom we had seen in their dingy working-dress.

Every little incident of this kind pleasantly breaks the monotony of ship life. Our religious service was this time on deck, which was far pleasanter than in the saloon, though perhaps more try ing to the voice of the preacher. During the course of it, our attention was a little distracted by an island in sight, perhaps the very one on which the ' Alma : was wrecked many years ago. There were others not far off, all desolate and burnt up by the intense heat. Our careful captain anxiously watched to keep bis vessel clear of them. Will civilisation ever attempt to people such spots ? We may look to the time when even these may become the abode of man, and when springs may be drawn by his marvellous skill out of these barren rocks. Aden. — The long-desired termination of our Red Sea voyage. The close oppressive heat was now succeeded by a fresh breeze, after passing the straits.

We felt ourselves indeed in a foreign region. The strangest human figures, in boats equally strange, soon surrounded our ship, some bringing various articles for sale, others wishing to exhibit their skill in diving for a piece of money. Many passengers threw a coin into the water, and the dexterity was wonderful with which these boys caught it before it reached the bottom. The transparency of the sea enabled us to watch their curious motions in diving ; they seemed in their natural element, and to feel perfect masters of it. Most of our passengers landed, but I did not, thinking it unwise to encounter any unnecessary fatigue. Notwithstanding the miseries caused by coaling, which involves a perfect babel of discordant voices, with dust and dirt in every direction, the calm evening beauty of the scene around us was most refreshing to the spirit.

Withdrawing the attention from Steamer Poiut itself, and the not very picturesque but useful ridges of coal near it, the eye rests on precipitous bare rocks and mountains op posite, which cannot sustain the smallest vegetation against their arid sides ; they are cleft apparently by some tremendous volcanic action into a frightful gorge, terminated by still higher mountains, whose ruggedness is softened by distance. No ordinary mountain scenery can give the smallest conception of this, in its extraordinary burnt dreary aspect. But distance and the transparent warm atmosphere of these southern regions can lend enchantment even to these gloomy peaks. The sky was of the most exquisite delicate grey gradually melting into gold. On one side of this central chasm, opposite to us, the jagged peak, grey and distinct, rose against the evening sky, receding to the horizon ; on the other, the fort stood on an isolated cliff, with distant hills in the background.

The sea on every side was most calm and serene, reflecting like a lake the picturesque little vessels that were scudding about with the strange-looking natives, or some steamers which might be going off to the African coast. Our fellow passengers returned with various treasures of ostrich feathers, beautiful coral, baskets, &c, which they had purchased ; but many were somewhat, annoyed to find how exorbitant a price they had paid, through their inexperience, without obtaining really choice articles. We bid adieu to the last land we should behold before arriving at our destination. The voyage acrossthe Arabian Sea is the least interesting of any part of the overland route to India. We were indeed isolated from the inhabited portion of the globe, for there was no laud to interrupt the rolling waters of the oceans which were between us and the ice-girt southern pole.

We did not find the weather perceptibly cooler as we were led to expect, but it was somewhat rougher. Lassitude crept over most of us duringthe greater part of the day, and those who had attempted in the earlier stages of the voyage to employ their time to some profit, gradually succumbed to the influences around them. A few of the passengers, kindly seconded by the captain and some of the officers, got up some amusing theatricals for evening entertainment, and our Hindoo friend gave an excellent Shakespearian recitation ; this being in a language foreign to him was very striking to us all, as he seemed perfectly at home in the full meaning and spirit of the piece, which was Clarence's dream. The heavenly bodies presented a never-failing source of interest, the waters as in the Mediterranean reflecting their splendour; we had also the pleasure of observing the wonderful phosphorescence of the waves wherever moved by the vessel, arising from multitudes of minute animalcules.

One evening, before going down to our seven-o'clock tea, there was an unusual gloom over the sky ; the moon seempd to be under a heavy cloud, for her brightness was so veiled that the fixed stars were more visible than they had been for some time. While below we were informed that there was an eclipse of the moon in progress. We hastened on deck, and then found that there was indeed a total one. The phenomenon, always interesting, was on this occasion peculiarly so ; the obscuration was total, but the moon was visible, of a deep red colour. It was a remarkable sight, and we watched it with extreme interest, until the moon gradually emerged from the shadow, and shone forth with intense splendour, dimming the light of all the heavenly bodies, except our beautiful planets, our faithful attendants, Venus and Jupiter.