Sketching Rambles; or, Nature in the Alps and Apennines ... Illustrated, etc

Front matter

SKETCHING RAMBLES, ■. ' : ". PLI SKETCHING RAMBLES; OB, NATURE IX THE ALPS AND APENNINES. BS AGNES AND MARIA E. CATLOW, AUTHORS OF "POPULAB CONCHOLOGT," "POPULAB EOT ANT," " POlTTAIt ENTOMOLOGT," " SCBIPTDT1E ZOOLOGT," ETC, ETC. fUnstraieb bg Sfnentg fLefoss, from Sketches bg % §Lrtl)trrs. •' NATURE IS TEE MANUSCRIPT OF HEAVEN."— Dr. Mason Good. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON : JAMES HOGG AND SONS. [The rigid of Translation is. reserved.] TO OUR ENGLISH AND FOREIGN FRIENDS, WHOSE SOCIETY, AND KIND SYMPATHY MADE EVEEY HAPPY HOUR MORE HAPPY, THESE VOLUMES, A FAINT RECORD OP SCENES ENJOYED, AND BEAUTIES ADMIRED TOGETHER, ARE MOST AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED.

Preface

. The Authors of this work beg the reader not to expect in its pages a recital of stirring adventures in the High Alps — these rare excursions were beyond their strength : nor the varied incidents of loss of luggage, bad accommodation, robbery and extortion — such minor vexations did not often fall to their lot, and were soon forgotten when they did. The aim of the writers is simply to convey to the minds of others, what so deeply touched their own, an impres sion of the sublime scenery amidst which they lived : the grandeur of the mountain, the cataract, and the gleu — the picturesque aspect of the cities, towns, and villages — with the varied manners and customs of the people. Addlestone, Surrey, April, 1861. CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.

Chapter I. From Bale To Berne Oyer The Weissenstein

Bale.— Quaint Houses— The Cathedral— The Ferry.— The Valley of the Birs. — La Roche Pleureuse. — American Notions. — Moutiers. — A Swiss Carriage. — Village Scenes. — A Bit of Advice. — A Mountain Vehicle. ■ — Ascent of the Weissenstein. — The Summit. — View of the Plain. — The Lakes. — First View of the Alps. — Expectation. — Hopes and Fears. — Wild Flowers. — Sunset. — Sunrise. — Descent of the Mount un. — Soleure.— First View of Berne. — The Cathedral. — Bernese Costume. — The Museum. — The Bears. — The Ranz des Vaches . Page 1

Chapter II. Lucerne, And The Lake Of The Four Cantons

Journey to Lucerne. — First View of the Lake. — The Kappel Briieke.— The Cathedral. — Contrasts. — Market Day. — The Lake. — Pilatus. — A Grand Effect. — The Rigi. — Ascent of tlie Rigi. — Sunset. — Sunrise. — Goldau. — Fall ofthe Rossherg. —The Evening- Hymn. — A Mixed Assemblage. — Brunnen. — The Ranz des Vaches. — Selisberg. — Lake Storms.— Tell's Chapel — The Hollow Way — Griitli.— The Confederates.— The Lake of Zug.— The Emigrants ... 33 CHAPTER HI. SWISS VILLAGES. Picturesque Houses.— True Swiss Fragrance. — A Sketch. — Swiss Habits. — Swiss Cottages.— Mountain Chalets.— Conflagrations. — Fire at Brunnen.— English Energy.— An Exciting Scene.— The Danger over. —An Ancient Dance.— A Treasure.— The Schiller Festival.— Swiss Customs "7 X CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. An Excursion Over The St

GOTHARD PASS. Pass of St. Gothard.— Altorf.— Tell's Birthplace.— Ascent of the Pass — The Devil's Bridge.— The Hole of Uri.— Summit of the Pass.— The Italian Side.— Airolo— Bellinzona.— Romantic Legend.— Perilous Haymaking.— Maderaner Thai Page 87 lg<

Chapter V. From The Lake Of The Four Cantons To Interlachen Over

THE BRUNIG PASS. Adieu to Brunnen. — Arnold von Winkelried. — Battle of Sempach. — Pushing on. — Ascent of the Brunig. — A Steep Descent. — A Panorama. — The Kirchet. — The Aar. — Waterfalls. — The Reichenbach. — A False Guide.— The Upper Fall.— The Lower Falls.— The Alpbach — The Churchyard. — Falls of the Giesbach. — Lake of Brienz. — Swiss Carving. — Swiss Singers ....... 101

Chapter VI. Interlachen, And An Excursion To Grindelwald And Lauterbrunnen

The Jungfrau. — Sunset. — Interlachen. — An Excursion. — Grindelwald. — Fresh Snow. — Glaciers. — Moraines. — The Lower Glacier. -An Ice Cavern.— Ice Pedestals.— A Sad Event. — The Crevasses. — The Wengern Alp.— The Alpine Horn.— Avalanches.— The Descent.— The Staubach.— Echoes.— The White Liitschine.— The Black Lutschine.— Confusion of Languages ....... 123

Chapter VII. From Interlachen To Geneva

Lake of Thun.— The Simmentbal.— Kossiniere.— Gruyeres.— Vevay — Valley of the Rhone.— The Diablerets.— The Sallanche.— Singular Costume.— Bex.— Lake Leman.— Chillon.— Bonnivard.— Lausanne — Geneva „, CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER VIIL MONT BLANC.

Foggy morning. — The Approach.— A Grand View. — Steep Ascent. — The Montets. — The Aiguilles. — Montanvert. — The Jardin. — Source of the Arveron. — Ice Cavern. — Glacier du Bossons. — The Ascent . Page 177

Chapter IX. The Lakes Of Wallenstadt, Zurich, And Constance

; THE LLNTHAL ; FALLS OF SCHAFFHAUSEN, ETC. Rapperschwyl. — Lake Wallenstadt. — The Linth Valley. — Glarus. — Stachelberg. — The Pantenbriicke. — The Head of the Valley.— Zurich. — The Botanic Gardens. — Distant View. — Falls of Schaffhausen. — Constance. — The Cathedral. — The Council Hall. — The Martyrs. — St. Gallon.— The Cathedral.— The Monks.— The Manufactories . 191

Chapter X. The Rheinthal And Pass Of St

BERNARDIN. Old Castles.— Pfeffers.— Reiehenau.— The Via Mala.— The Bridges.— A Second View. — An Ugly Dog.— Gorge of the Rofla. — The Infant Rhine. — Val Misocco. — Humilitas ..... 215

Chapter XI. Animal Life In The Alps

Swiss Cattle. — Cattle in Harness. — The Bell Cow. — Mountain Pastures. — A Perilous Passage. — Mountain Storms. — Embarking Cattb" — A Patriotic Cow. — Gruyere Cheese. — Mountain Sheep. — The Goat. — The Goat-herd. — Coming Home. — The Chamois. — Chamois Hunting. The Ibex.— The Marmot.— Their Winter Retreat. — Swiss Bears. — A Bear Steak.— The Wolf.— The Fox— The Lynx. —Herons.— Storks. — The Lammergeier.— Vulture's Nests. — Vulture Annie . 227 CHAPTER XH. SKETCH OF THE BOTANY OF SWITZERLAND. Fir Woods.— Extent of Woods. — Primeval Forests. — The Creeping Fir. — Forests on the Brunig. — Great Value of Forests. — Venerable Trees. — Varied Species— Slide of Alpnach.— The Oak.— The Walnut.— The Lime.— A Potato Field. — Indian Corn.— Wild Flowers. — The Alp-rose. — Bouquet from the Rigi. — The Cyclamen. — An eager Botanist. — Flowers at Brunnen. — Ferns from Griitli. — A Fine Saxifrage. — Mountain Gentians. — Alpine Flowers. — Wild Strawberries. — More Gentians. — London Pride CONTENTS.

XII CHAPTER XHI. ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE LIFE LN ITALY. Change in Vegetation.— Italian Fruits.— The Olive.— The Vine.— The Mulberry. — Oranges and Lemons. — Gardens at Nice. — A Pic-nic in March.— The Banksia Rose.— The Palm.— Palm Sunday.— Florence Flowers.— New Fruits.— Italian Mules.— Beauty of the Cattle.— Corsican Ponies. — Italian Harness. — The Comedo . . Page 293

CHAPTER XIV. FROM GENEVA TO TURIN AND NICE, BY THE

I SSES OF MONT CENIS AND THE COL DI TENDA. Chateau Bayard.— A Supper Scene. — Ascent of Mont Cenis. — The Descent. —Turin.— The Cathedral.— The Arcades.— The Col di Tenda.— Beatrice di Tenda. — Gorge of the Roya. — Pass of the Brouis. — Col di Braus. — Descent to Nice ....... 313

CHAPTER XV. NICE AND THE RIVIERA DI PONENTE.

The Market. — The Mediterranean. — The Russian Empress. — The Castle Hill. — A Funeral. — Nizzan Hats. — The Paglione. — A Country Villa. — Hermits and Friars. — Dr. Antonio. — Cimiez. — Santa Barbara. — Christmas Day. — Church Music— A Wedding. — The Var. — Victor Emanuel. — A Procession.— The King's Departure. — A Roman Artist. — The Carnival. — A Fete. — Villa Franca. — A Russian Frigate. — Holy Thursday.— Chateau de St. .Andre". — Ancient Nice. — Mont Albano. — Monaco. — Mentone. — La Montfe. — A Picturesque Town. — Ventimiglia. —San Remo. — A Sketch.— The Convent. — Porto Maurizio. —Towns and Villages. — Alassio.— Savona.— Distant View of Genoa. —The Corniche Road . .... I. LIST OF THE ILLUSTEATIONS. VOL. I. .c ■ ] PAGE VAL MOTJTIERS AND LA EOCHE PLEUREUSE {Coloured Frontispiece i) BAY OF URI ... ... ... ... ... ... 54 COTTAGES AT BRUNNEN ... ... 71 THE DEVIL'S BRIDGE ... ... ... ... ... 91 THE VALLEY OF MEYRINGEN, FROM BRIENZ ... ... 120 THE JUNGFRAU, FROM INTERLACHEN ... 125 CHILLON AND THE RHONE VALLEY ... ... ... 168 MONT BLANC, FROM CHAMOUNI ... ... 183 THE GORGE OF PFEFFERS ... ... ... ... 217 THE TERRACE AT NICE ... ... ... ... ... SKETCHING RAMBLES.

Chapter I. From Bale To Berne Over The Weissenstein

BALE. — QUAINT HOUSES. — CATHEDRAL. — THE FERRY. — VALLEY OF TUE BIRS, OR VAL MOUTIERS. — LA ROCHE PLEUREUSE. — AMERICAN NOTIONS. — MOUTIERS. — A SWISS CARRIAGE AND DRIVER.' — VILLAGE SCENES. — A BIT OF ADVICE. — A MOUNTAIN VEHICLE. — ASCENT OF THE WEISSENSTEIN. — THE SUMMIT. — VIEW OF THE PLAIN. — THE LAKES. — FIRST VIEW OF THE ALPS. — EXPECTATION. — HOPES AND FEARS. — WILD FLOWERS. — SUNSET. — SUNRISE. — DESCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN. — SOLEURE. — FIRST VIEW OF BERNE. — THE CATHEDRAL. — BERNESE COS- TUME. — MUSEUM. — THE BEARS. On approaching Switzerland by way of Strasburg, we were often reminded of former travels in North Wales, by the sight of the Vosges and the mountains of the Black Forest ; the former clothed with trees to the summit, with pretty looking villages nestling at their feet, and old castles perched on their heights ; the latter more distant-looking, blue, and misty, giving promise of great beauty to those who explored their recesses ; this was not our present in tention, however : we turned to the Jura, and soon reached Bale by railway on the 10th of June.

This old town being the entrance to the republic, we were much interested with the novel style of architecture VOL. I. b BALE. exhibited in the houses, and the general appearance of the place as we entered ; but the first evening, instead of wandering about, we contented ourselves with sitting to rest on the balcony of the hotel to watch the rapid Ehine below us, shooting past at a most astonishing rate — a broad im petuous-looking river, the water very clear, and of a light green. Near us it was crossed by a picturesque bridge of wood on stone piers, over which many people in novel costumes were passing. On the opposite side, old houses of all sizes and shapes were seen, with immensely high sloping roofs so deep as to have four tiers of windows in them ; the chimneys were of all styles of architecture, heights, and colours, and one here and there was surmounted by a stork's nest, on which we could observe the young ones, while the parents were sitting on one leg at perfect rest, looking more like images than living birds, offering a great con trast to the swifts and swallows which darted up and down the river.

On all this novel scene the evening sun was shedding a rich warm colour that rendered everything bright and gay, and the whole picture was framed by the blue distant mountains of the Black Forest on the one hand, and those of the Jura on the other. It is probable that the feelings of intense satisfaction and enjoyment we experienced on being at length really in Switzerland, heightened our pleasure, and caused this our first view of its beauty, its rapid rivers, its mountains, its quaint old towns, and picturesque houses, to make an indelible im pression on our minds ; for though we have seen many more beautiful scenes, the feelings of that evening have never been effaced. A visit next morning to the bridge made us more forcibly QUAINT HOUSES. aware of the power of the rushing Rhine, which seemed to dart beneath us as if it would carry away the strong foundations of the bridge, and hurl us into the foaming stream.

It seemed of wondrous power and beauty too, for its light green transparent waters were very sparkling and clear contrasted with those of the Seine, which was the last river whose waters we had stopped to notice, as we crossed the fine bridges of Paris. We were deeply impressed with this our first introduction to Swiss rivers : here too we observed their destructive power, for we saw the wooden column on which the various heights of this river during floods had been marked, one of the most fearful being as late as the year 1851. We had just been at Paris, where the whole subject of conversation had been the terrible floods at Lyons and other places on the Rhone, and we could realize the destruction such floods must cause, by the power of this its sister stream. The town of Bale is ancient and very curious, and many recollections of past struggles arise at the sight of its walls, watch-towers, and gateways ; one of the latter par ticularly struck us by its antique appearance.

The narrow streets too, with their quaint old houses, carved here and there very elaborately, form most picturesque bits, which delight an artistic eye. They are beautifully irregular, both in height, character, and even colour, with all kinds of odd windows in charming confusion ; the roofs very deep and overhanging, with two or three, or even four rows of openings, some being glazed windows, but generally they are holes shaded by a deep penthouse roof, and admitting air to the large store-rooms formed by these deep roofs, where are preserved all kinds of things — merchandise, THE CATHEDRAL. household goods, even hay and straw. Some houses have a large door in this roof, projecting out, and with a crane dependent from it for drawing up goods. Here and there a little turret appears, then a group of most picturesque chimneys, then all sorts of little projections and juttings out, for which one cannot assign a use ; in short, the upper part of the houses in this town, seen from a high opposite window, appear a perfect chaos, as if the builder of each house had striven to make his erection more bizarre than that of his neighbour.

We spent an hour in sketching chimneys, for their various devices amused us greatly, there being no formal chimey-pots as we have in England, but at the top, little tiled roofs across the opening, raised on short pillars or arches, and admitting of much variety of form. The houses, all turned with their gable ends to the front, are of very irregular sizes, and to eyes accustomed to the monotonous character of our streets presented a very novel spectacle, and we were particularly struck with them as we walked to the cathedral. This building is plain, standing on an elevated platform above the river, and is seen from most parts of the town. There is nothing striking in the architecture, but it is built of red sandstone, which gives it a peculiar appearance ; and we were greatly struck with the two large equestrian statues at the west front — one of St. George and the Dragon, and the other of St. Martin.

It is now used as a Protestant place of worship, and was built in the 12th century. In the interior is a red marble tomb erected to the memory of Erasmus, with the date 1536. On the north and east sides are rows of trees forming a pleasant shade, and the spot commands a beautiful view of the Rhine, the town, and the distant mountain of the Black THE FERRY. 5 Forest ; these, with the wooded banks of the river, form a very pretty view. The stream here is, of course, too rapid for boats to cross, but a ferry is established in a very in genious manner : a large boat is attached by a rope and a sliding ring to a strong cable, which is carried across the river at some height, and suspended to two poles, one on each side ; on this the ring slides, and the cable effectually preventing the boat from being carried down by the rapid river, is thus rowed across with very bttle difficulty by the boatman.

We observed he had plenty of employment, for during our pleasant repose under the trees the boat crossed several times. On our return we went through the cloisters, which are interesting, having many monuments on the walls, some of them very old and others quite modern. We observed here that the disgraceful practice of scribbling on walls and tombs is not confined to the English, as we had been led to suppose ; for here, and in very many other places abroad, we found it carried to a great extent : the tombs were covered with German characters as thickly as possible, so that on some of the tablets the original words could scarcely be read. As these were mostly cut with a knife, they could not be effaced, and we felt quite indignant at this unfeeling act. It was a poor satisfaction to find that Englishmen are on the whole less addicted to this puerile act of destruction than foreigners.

There are other places of interest at Bale, that make it worth while to pass a day or two there ; the museum con tains a number of Holbein's paintings which deserve exa mination : the artist spent a portion of his life at Bale before he went to England. There are also a university, an arsenal, and other public buildings. VALLEY OF THE BIRS. We quitted Bale by one of the finest gorges of the Jura, the valley of the Birs, every step of the way giving to our view the most varied scenery — alternately open basins and narrow gorges, hemmed in by fine mountain heights, beautifully clothed with trees, from which the bare mountain limestone peers in every direction. The path con tracts greatly before reaching the town of Delemont, the rocks quite projecting over the road, and surmounted on one side by a convent, form very picturesque objects : this kind of scenery extends' for many miles, the gigantic limestone precipices rising to a great height, and often approaching so closely as barely to leave space for the road, and the little river Birs.

Foaming and fretting in its rocky bed, it here and there forms cascades, or a series of rapids ; sometimes it is fed by mountain rills, descending from the rocks on either side, or heard though not seen, in its deep bed overhung by trees, which is impeded by huge stones brought down by its own impetuous current. Every turn of the road varies the scene, presenting pictures more wild and beautiful ; the rocks in many places clothed with the most luxuriant trees, carpeted with the gayest flowers, rearing enormous crags above all, and throwing out gigantic buttresses as if for support. There are also many curious caves, evidently formed by the violent action of water; and the fissures may be plainly seen where the rocks have been rent asunder, for the projections and hollows on either side correspond exactly, looking like gigantic teeth wrenched open by some great force, and only requiring another effort to make them snap together again.

These mountains of the Jura range, extendino from the Rhone to the Rhine, and forming the natural LA ROCHE PLEUREUSE. 7 boundary between France and Switzerland, vary in height from two to five thousand feet, abound in organic remains, and possess many veins of iron of a peculiar granular kind : we met several carts, laden with ore looking somewhat like shot, being about that size and shape. Delemont and Correndelin have extensive iron-works. The little river which has formed this beautiful defile rises a short distance above Tavennes, nine or ten miles from Moutiers, and flows alternately through these grand gorges, and more open valleys in which stand many villages and towns. We spent some days at Moutiers, for the purpose of seeing more of this defile, known as the Val Moutiers, or in German, as the Munsterthal; and we have enjoyed few tilings more than our mornings and evenings, spent in sketching and admiring its wonderful beauty.

One favourite spot was " La Roche Pleureuse," a large mass of limestone carpeted with the greenest moss, and projecting over the river, into which it discharges from every portion of its surface innumerable tiny rills, forming a complete watery veil hanging before the dark rock beneath; the effect is very beautiful, and our guide told us that the spring which produces it never fails, for in the driest season La Roche Pleureuse weeps still. Another point of view was equally beautiful and invaluable to an artist, with its fine wall of fantastic rocks opening in the distance to the valley of Moutiers, the little river bright and sparkling dashing over the stones, and at the very spot to produce the best effect, forming a small picturesque cascade white with spray, while a projecting mass of rock, overhung by trees, threw just the proper proportion of deep shade into the picture ; a small saw-mill worked by AMERICAN NOTIONS. the stream gave the finishing touch of , animation, and provided figures for the foreground.

Farther on, the rocks recede, forming an" amphitheatre, to which a picturesque bridge adds great beauty, while nearer to Delemont the scenes appear finer still ; but as we only saw them from the diligence, we can speak less positively. Those who can walk the seven or eight miles between Delemont and Moutiers will spend some hours of great enjoyment, and an artist might luxuriate in this seclusion for many days without exhausting his subjects. But there are many other lovely scenes for sketching in the course of this little river, ere reaching these defiles ; and a pedestrian excursion, or a drive in an open carriage from Bale to Tavennes, following the course of this beautiful mountain stream, principally beautiful from the scenery through which it passes, and has been mainly accessory in forming, will charm every one who has a feeling for the picturesque ; particularly if the traveller be entering Switzerland for the first time, and is not yet familiarized with these sportive children of the mountains, and the wild rocky defiles through which they so often take their joyous and eccentric course.

At the table d'hote at Bale we had met an American family, who amused us much by finding fault with everything on the table and in the house, contrasting them with the superior hotels in the " States." It so happened that they travelled in the same diligence with us the next day and we alighted together at Moutiers. We then asked them what they thought of the scenery through which we had passed, fearing they might contrast it unfavourably with some American gorge with which they were familiar ; MOUTIERS. 9 but to our great delight and surprise they all expressed themselves highly gratified, and the elder lady of the party concluded by exclaiming, " The Rhine is a fool to it." Moutiers was the first village we stopped at in Switzer land, and the simple life led by the Swiss was quite new to us.

It is situated in one of the open basins of the Jura mountains, amidst the most beautiful scenery, and between the curious gorges in which runs the little river Birs. In this village there is nothing of a peculiarly Swiss character in the houses ; they are not all built of wood, nor are any of them picturesque from age, but we found much to in terest us in the simple manners and customs of the inhabitants. Our windows at the inn commanded the whole street, so that we saw and heard all that went on. As soon as it was beginning to be light, the cows and goats were taken to their pastures, the boys calling them with horns, and they answered with their musical bells ; assem bling together to enjoy the fresh morning air, they seemed to reproach us with being still shut up in our room ; the villagers were soon roused, and then began the business of the day, for the Swiss are a very early people.

The men were many of them employed in a manufactory of watches in the neighbourhood, and went off to their work ; the women began their labours in the fields, the children went to school, and the old women stayed at home to wash, and tend the babies. The work of the fields was almost en tirely carried on here by the women : we observed stout young girls, the pictures of health and strength, digging, hoeing, and carrying heavy loads. During the day the road was lively with waggons drawn by good horses, all having bells to their harness, which makes a pleasant A SWISS CARRIAGE. tinkling sound, accompanied by the loud cracking of the driver's whip, an accomplishment they seem to take great delight in ; they do not however hit the horses, but make this sharp sound to herald their approach. The country carriages in this remote village were very novel, clumsy, odd-looking vehicles, and as dirty as though they had never been cleaned since first receiving the mud of the road.

We expressed a wish for a carriage, to drive again through the fine gorge by which we had reached the village, and our conveyance was an old gig, more ancient and di lapidated-looking than any vehicle we had ever seen be fore, and so splashed and discoloured, that we could not in the least say what its original appearance might have been. It was drawn by a pair of cart-horses, their tails tied up in knots, and the harness made up of a strange mixture of hide and ropes. The driver, Edouard Schafter, who sat on a board at our feet, was the son of the landlord, and was dressed in a blouse ; but in spite of that common dress we found him an agreeable companion, for he proved intelligent and well-informed, with great taste and enthusiasm for the beauties of his native valley, and delighted to point out its fine scenery : he had read Walter Scott's works translated into French, knew a great deal of English and French history, and expressed a strong desire to visit London and Liverpool.

At one time even our conversation turned on geological subjects : we could not however con vince him of the theory of the formation of rocks by sedi mentary deposit, and their upheaval by internal convul sion ; he had never gone beyond the idea that they were originally created as they now appeared. Our great horses all this time were as gentle as lambs, their master guiding VILLAGE SCENES. 11 them by his voice, and not by the whip ; now and then he said, " Allons, en route, hi !" and the great creatures trotted on like fine carriage-horses. With every one we met he exchanged a kindly " bon soir," and a nod and a smile, for he seemed on good terms with all, both in the village and out of it ; he told us that though the inhabitants of his valley were Protestants, and surrounded by Catholics, they were on perfect terms of friendship with all their neighbours, the difference in faith being no bar to their kind intercourse.

Now and then the quiet of the village was broken by the sound of a drum, which seemed strange to us, but we found it was made by the crier to attract the attention of the people when anything was to be announced to them, instead of ringing a bell, as our custom is on similar occasions. The village was gay one evening with a show, representing scenes in the Crimea, probably by transpa rencies, the owner explaining them in a loud voice, and we heard in turns the names of all the heroes of that exciting period, whose actions were thus being made known to the inhabitants of this peaceful community. But one part of the exhibition was more familiar to us, for from the back part of the show our old friend Punch appeared, and performed many antics, some very different to those with which that droll personage delights his audiences in Eng land ; among them that of sprinkling water on his puppet friends, and occasionally on the juvenile spectators below, of course to their very great delight.

We were pleased to see the villagers amused, for they were very quiet, cleanly, and orderly. Towards sunset the cattle came home ringing their bells, each turning into its own home; A BIT OF ADVICE. after this the men lounged about a little, smoking their pipes, and all soon retired to rest. The little town of Moutiers has a fine wall of enclosing mountains, of no great elevation, but of varied and picturesque form, clothed with trees, except where the limestone forces its way, and by the perpendicular form of its rocks, and its sharp ridges, forbids the necessary support to any but the smallest vegetation. The only mode of approach to, or of egress from, these secluded valleys is through the singularly romantic gorges already described, which some convulsion of nature has cleft through the mountains, or by climbing the surrounding wall of rocks, where it has been possible to construct a road.

By one of these moun tain paths we left the pretty village of Moutiers, in order to ascend the Weissenstein, an introduction to Switzerland which we can safely recommend to all tourists who would see in perfection that most glorious of sights, the Alps at sunrise, and have time and patience to remain till they have seen it ; but in order to do this they must sometimes wait, as we did, for a week or more. Let us here say a few words to the true lovers of nature who are contemplating a visit to this enchanting country. If possible, do not hurry ! should your time be short, rather visit fewer places (seeing these in all their varied aspects, and making them your own by study and familiarity), than rush, as too many do, from one well-known spot to another, carrying away indeed a vague and general idea of beauty and grandeur, which is very charming, but losing that intimate acquaintance with nature, that variety of expression, which, as in a beautiful face, constitutes its greatest charm, more espe cially in mountain scenery, where one day, or even one A MOUNTAIN VEHICLE. 13 hour, differs so entirely from another, that you can hardly believe it to be the same scene you are looking upon.