Journal of a Tour in France, in the years 1816 and 1817

Front matter

JOURNAL, &c, LONDON: FH1NTED BV THOMAS DAVISON, WHITF.FRIARS. JOURNAL OF A TOUR Uti FRANCE, IN THE YEARS 1816 AND 1817. BY FRANCES JANE CAREY. LONDON : PRINTED FOR TAYLOR AND HESSEY, _3, FLEET-STREET, AND 13, WATERLOO-PLACE, PALL-MALL. 1823. Td MISS BEATRICE ANNE STAFFORD, THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE INSCRIBED, AS A SMALL TOKEN OF THE ESTEEM AND FRIENDSHIP OF HER AFFECTIONATE SISTER, FRANCES JANE CAREY.

ADVERTISEMENT.

. The author performed the journey, of which an account is given in the following sheets, in company with her husband and her son, a school-boy. The great inconvenience they suffered from being unable to procure an accurate description of the country through which their route lay first suggested to her the idea of making notes on the spot. She submits them to the public with much diffi dence, fearing they may not possess sufficient merit to entitle them to its favour. Her anxiety to be useful to succeeding travellers has induced the author to enter into many trifling and minute details respect ing the modes of conveyance, the charges at inns, the state of the roads, and the

Chapter I

Passage from Guernsey to Cherbourg — Cones — Entrance of the Harbour — Custom-house — Hotels— French Diligence — Valognes — French Voiturier — Bayeux — Queen Maude's Tapestry—Dress of the Peasantry — Caen — Cathedral— Walks — Labourers — Fair at Guibray — Falaise — Argentan — Alencon — Beaumont — Le Mans 1

Chapter II

Tours — Palace of Plessis les Tours — The River — Charlemagne's Mound — Appearance of the Country on the Banks ofthe Loire — The Weather — The Fruit — School Exhibition — Servants — Assizes — Crimes — Witnesses — A Trial in England 22

Chapter III

Journey from Tours — Chanteloup — Beet Sugar — Amboise — Bonaparte — Blois — Mary de Medicis — Beaugency — Orleans — Joan of Arc — Chateauneuf — French Monuments — Children swaddled — Gien — Briare — Cosne— Numerous Beggars— Beautiful View — Charges at Inns — Nevers — Distress of the Poor — Dress of the Women — Moulins — Country Houses — Scenery on the Road — La Palisse — Roanne — Mountain of Tarare — Arrival at Lyons X CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Lyons — Its beautiful Situation — Buildings— Quays — Squares — Junction of the Rivers the Saone and the Rhone — Great Injuries sustained during the Revolution — Remains of Roman Architecture — Public Walks — Coaches — Carrioles — Pleasure Boats — Boat Women — LTsle Barbe — Boat laden with Peaches — Curious Dress of some of the Women — Navigation of the Rhone — Coches d'Eau — Embarkation on the Rhone 60

Chapter V

Commencement of our Voyage — Vienne — Condrieux — The Scenery — Ferries — Barges — Tain — The Wines — Valence — Fishing Boats — Ancone — Coche d'Eau — Pont St. Esprit — Water-mills — Liability to Accidents on the River — Arrival at Avignon— Female Porter — Situation of the Town — Hospital of Invalids — Public Walks — Laura's Tomb — French Waiters 79

Chapter VI

Departure from Avignon — Change in the Face of the Country — Olives, Gourds, Maize — Bridge over the River Durance at Bonpas — Waggons — Mules — Mulberry Trees — Town of Aix Its Cours Fountains — Anecdote Curious Weeping Willow — Warm Springs — Journey to Marseilles — Chalky Mountains — Bad Roads— First View of the Mediterranean — Of Marseilles — The Cours — The Harbour — Novelty of the Scene — Pleasure Boats — Quays — Hotels — Sheep's Milk and Butter — Fruit — Climate — Bastides — Chapel of Notre Dame de la Garde — Churches — Fountains — Old Streets — Dress of the Women — Public Walks gj CONTENTS. XI

Chapter VII

Departure from Marseilles — Le Mistral — Inundation of Sand — Orgon — The Alpines — St. Remy — Tarascon — Anecdote of Louis XIII. and Cardinal Richelieu — Bridge of Boats — Beaucaire — Nismes — Roman Antiquities — Amphitheatre — Maison Carree — The Fountain — Excursion to le Pont du Gard — Table d'Hote — Journey to Lunel — Muscat Wines — The Vintage — Arrival at Montpelier 123

Chapter VIII

Montpelier Lodgi ngs Theatre Mademoiselle Georges — Botanic Garden — Aqueduct — Place du Peyrou — High Winds — Le Marin and La Bise — Climate — English Custom for Men to sell their Wives in the public Market — Divorces — Leave Montpelier — Montagnac — River Herault — Pezenas — Gypsies — Short Poem 147

Chapter IX

Journey to Beziers — Fertility of the Country — Appearance of the Town — Canal of Languedoc — Passage Boats — Mons. A. — English Customs — Horses used in treading out Corn by the Road-side — Narbonne — French Kitchens — Honey — Scenery on the Road — Carcassonne — Tables d'Hote — Pyrenees — Sudden Change in the Weather — Castelnaudary — Scarcity of Wood for Fuel — Chauffepieds — Reservoir of Water — Canal of Languedoc .—Toulouse — Kitchen Gardens — Cathedral — Streets — Shops — Disturbance in the Market-place — Journey to Montauban — Appearance of the Town — Price of Bread — Eligibility of Toulouse or Montaubau as a Residence for English Families. . CONTENTS.

Chapter X

Journey to Agen — Method of feeding Geese — Their celebrated Livers — Dried Plums — Vines trained to Elms — Ferry at Aguillon, on the River Lot — Anecdote of Henry IV. — Junction of the Lot and the Garonne — Tonneins — Dress of the Peasants — Pigeon-houses — La Reole — Ferry at Langon — Vintage — Castres — Crucifixes — Religion — Approach to Bourdeaux — Theatre — Quays — Hotels — Dinner in the Country — Streets — Wines— French and English Women — Their Condition compared. . 1 94

Chapter XI

Departure from Bourdeaux — View of the Town from the Ferry over the Garonne — Prisoners — Passage over the river Dordogne — Cavignac — Barbezieux — Perigord Pies — Angouleme — Jarnac — Cognac — Native Place of Francis I Learned Ladies — Brandy — Town of Saintes — Rochefort — River Charente — Garden where Bonaparte made his last public Appearance in France — Anecdote — Flatness of the Country — View of the Atlantic — La Rochelle — Harbour — Blockade by Cardinal Richelieu — Brick Floors — Gens-d'armes — Police — Passports .... 218

Chapter XII

Journey from La Rochelle — Bad Roads— Lugon — Bourbon Vendee — Anecdote of Bonaparte — Return of Louis XVIII — Montaigu — Attention of a French Servant — Arrival at Nantes — Situation ofthe Town — Excellent Hotel — Bonaparte — Iron Foundry I — Journey to Ancenis— Angers — Saumur — Its Bridges Monastery of Fontevrault — Madame Dacier — Margaret of Anjou — Villages cut in Limestone Cliffs — Arrival at Tours . . CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XIII

Public Schools in France for Boys — Hours of Visiting — Dancing — Dress ofthe Ladies— Balls— Le Compte d'Autichamp — Madame de la Roche Jaquclin — Ready furnished Houses — Price of Provisions — Traiteurs — Col. Pinckney's Travels — Family Harmony — Servants — Anecdote — Laws in France favourable to the Women 25 9

Chapter XIV

Missionaries from the Pope — Erection of a Cross — Religion — Bonaparte — Clergy — Female Accomplishments— Education of Englishwomen — Climate — Sufferings of the Poor — Combination against the Farmers 284

Chapter XV

Departure from Tours — Appearance of the Country — Loches — Agnes Sorel — Manufactures — Vines — Chatillon — Chateau - roux — Argenton — River Creuse — Shepherdesses — Pastoral Scenery — Morterol — Good Road — Currency of France — Limoges — Churches — Beauty of the Woods — Price of Labour — Scenery — St. Leonard's — Cattle Fair — Dress and Appearance of the Peasantry — Bourganeuf — Aubusson — Villeneuve — Price of Labour and of Provisions — The Mountains of Dor, and of the Puy de Dome — Pont Gibaud — Volcanic Rocks — Ascent of the Puy de Dome — View of the Plain of the Limagne — Arrival at Clermont 306

Chapter XVI

Clermont — Numerous Objects of Curiosity — Petrifying Well — Pont Naturel — Warm Springs in the Mont Dor — Chaudesagues CONTENTS. XIV — The Weather — The Gardens — The Fountains — Village of Fontenat — Water bursting from Rocks — Hemp Mills — Royat — Curious Cave and Church — Roman Aqueduct — Irrigation — Cathedral — Wines — Sweetmeats — Dress of the Peasants — Ex treme Distress of the Poor — Reflections — Granary of Cæsar — Legrand's Description of the Manners of the Natives of the Mountains of Auvergne, in 1787 — Their Stables — Cattle — Cli mate — Communities of Families — The Auvergnats Votaries of Freedom and Tyrants to the Women — A political Privilege ac corded to Women in one of the United States of America 330

Chapter XVII

Journey from Clermont — River Allier — Conical Hills called Puys — Castles and Monasteries built on their Summits — View of the Town of Thiers — Manufactories — Mills — Scenery — Boen — Feurs, a Town on the Loire — Fenouilh — Long Mountain — Price of Labour and of Provisions — Comparison between the Condition of the People of France and England — Frightful Descent of the Mountain — Arrival at Lyons 35 1

Chapter XVIII

State of the Weather — Fall of Snow on the 27th of April — Vegetation — Warm Baths — French Ladies — Education of English Girls — Schools — Governesses — Churches — Paintings — Statue by Antoine Coysevox — English Novels — Junction ofthe Rivers — Ile Mognat — Church d' Ainay — Greek Colony — Cathedral—Ancient Clock— Hotel Dieu— Botanic Garden—Beautiful Scenery in Spring— Appearance of the Peasantry — Conversation on the Condition of the Female Sex 363

CHAPTER XVIII.

Journey from Lyons — Pont d'Ain — Narrow Pass in the Mountains — Cerdon — High Mountain — River Veyron — Valley of CONTENTS. XV Nantua — Town and Lake — Gorge in Mont Jura — Lake Syant — Cataracts — Cascade of Burlandier — Sawing Machines — St. Germain de Joux — Stupendous Scenery — Bellegarde — Perte du Rhone — Terrace Road — Fort de l'Ecluse — The Rhone — Ar rival at Geneva — Roads — Carriages — Beggars — Visit in the Country — Croaking of the Frogs — Visit to M. Pictet de Roche ments — English Customs and Literature fashionable at Geneva 384

Chapter XIX

Rousseau's House — Excursion to Ferney — Voltaire — Journey from Geneva — Scenery — Versoy — Copet — Lausanne — Magnificent Views of the Lake — Terrace Vineyards — Snails — Vevai — Tomb of Ludlow — Variety and Grandeur of the Landscape — Castle of ChiUon — Bex — Bridge of St. Maurice — Peasantry — Goitres — Pass between the Alps — Anecdote of General Berthencourt 400

Chapter XX

Cascade of the Pissevache — Return to Bex — Saltworks — Vevai— Lausanne — Genteel Families admit Boarders — Peasantry ofthe Pays de Vaud — Journey from Lausanne — Cossonex — Sarra — Orbe — Yverdun — Comparison of the Expenses between the Hotels of Switzerland and France — Charges — Attendants — Lake of Neuchatel — Scenery — Fine Monument — Weather — Return towards France — Passage of the Jura — Mortiers Travers — Rousseau — Mountains — Verrieres — River Doubs — Pont Arlier 414

Chapter XXI

Pont- Arlier — La Grange d'Aliene — Ornans — River Loue — Deep Well — View of Besangon — Discontents of the Poor — River CONTENTS. XVI Doubs— Auxonne— Dijon, ancient Capital of Burgundy—Hand some Buildings— Churches— River Ouche— Pont de Pany— Cote d'Or — Rouvray— Avallon — River Cousin— Beggars— Auxerre— River Yonne— Champagne— Villeneuve sure Yonne —Sens— English Comforts— Vineyards — Montereau — Melun Price of Provisions and of Labour — Storm — Charenton — Beggars — Arrival in Paris 430 430

Chapter XXII

Paris— Change in various Customs — Market Women — Improvements—Palace of the Luxembourg — Collection of Roses — Market for Flowers — Fountain of the Elephant — The Emperor Louvre — French Monuments — Amusements — Grand Opera — Theatre des Varietes — Garden of Tivoli — Anecdote — Montagues Russes — Le Cimetiere du Pere la Chaise — Boulevard des Italiens — Garden ofthe Tuilleries — Cafe des Mille Colonnes — Restaurateurs — Reflections 448

Chapter XXIII

Journey from Paris — Empress Josephine — St. Germains — Mantes — Evreux — Apple-trees — Lisieux — Caen — Price of Provisions and of Labour — Vire — Avranches — Adjacent Country — Advantages for Invalids — Journey to Granville — Oxen — Coutance — Cathedral — St. Lo — Towns in Normandy eligible for English Families — Convent of Valognes — Terms for Education — Cherbourg — Passage for Guernsey — Landing at Alderney — Arrival in Guernsey — Beautiful Views — Return to England .... 467 ERRATA. Page 47, line 16, for from whence, read from which. 1 74, 20, for visitors, read visiters. 185, 2, for one surface, read a surface. 282, 29, for had lost : no means, read had lost, and no means. 361, in the note, for La Puy, read Le Puy. 383, 4, omit on. 443, 3 1, for excused in, read excused either in. 452, 15, for itself, lead themselves. JOURNAL, Ssc.

Chapter I

Passage from Guernsey to Cherbourg — Cones — Entrance of the Harbour — Custom-house — Hotels — French Diligence — Valognes-French Voiturier-Bayeux-Queen Maude's Tapestry — Dress of the Peasantry — Caen — Cathedral — Walks — Labourers — Fair at Guibray — Falaise — Argentan — Alencon — Beaumont — Le Mans. We left England in the summer of the year 1816, with the intention of visiting the continent; and after spending a few weeks in the island of Guernsey, we took our passage for Cherbourg in a small French vessel, and went on board about seven o'clock in the morning of August 14th. The wind was fair, and we expected to make our passage in six or seven hours ; but, owing partly to our French captain's lingering off the harbour, in expectation of other passengers, by which we lost some advantage of the tide, and partly to the slackening and change ofthe wind, we were eleven hours on the water.

As we did not suffer from sickness, and the weather was fine, we had no reason to regret the delay, for there is much to amuse the eye and engage the attention in this short passage: first, the view back on Guernsey; n PASSAGE FROM GUERNSEY its castle, on an insulated rock near the mouth of the harbour; the harbour itself, filled with shipping; the town, on the slope of a hill; the houses piled one above another from the water's edge ; and the beautiful verdure ofthe surrounding country, studded over with gentlemen's seats built of stone. Then the little neighbouring islands of Jethou and Herm present themselves, contrasting their cultivated sides with the bare rocks that rise in the blue expanse around them; Sark, with its perpendicular cliffs; and last in succession, Alder ney lifts its craggy brow, and the French coast " sleeps in the distance."

As we passed by Jethou, one of our fellow pas sengers told us that the grey mullet, with which the Guernsey market was supplied, were taken on its coast. They were not caught in nets, but shot from the shore. They came in shoals, and fre quently put their heads close together out of the water, when the people who were watching for their appearance fired amongst them, and those which were killed remained on the beach at the ebbing of the tide. Alderney is separated from France by a narrow strait, called the Race, through which the tide rushes with prodigious violence, and, from the ruggedness ofthe bottom, with a whirling motion, rendering the navigation difficult and dangerous in rough weather; but as it was now very serene, there was nothing to alarm us. After doubling Cape La Hogue, we kept close to the coast of Normandy, which is covered with corn fields, TO CHERBOURG — CONES. 3 thickly interspersed with villages, and is cultivated down to the very edge of the sea-shore.

On approaching Cherbourg, we looked very eagerly for the celebrated Cones, but could discover no vestige of them. When they were de stroyed, and whether by human means or by the fury of the elements, we could not learn, but we understood that some remains of them might still be seen at low water*. * " The French possess no port for ships of war from Dunkirk to Brest. To remedy the want, they planned a mole across the open bay of Cherbourg; but to inclose a space sufficient to protect a fleet of the line would demand so extended a wall, and so exposed to heavy seas, that the expense would be far too great to be thought of, and at the same time the success too dubious to be ventured. The idea, of a regular mole was therefore given up, and a partial one, on a new plan, adopted. This was, to erect in the sea, in a line where a mole is wanted, insulated columns of timber and masonry, of so vast a size as to resist the violence of the ocean, aud to break its waves sufficiently to permit a bank being formed between column and column.

These have been called cones, from their form : they are each one hundred and forty feet diameter at the base, sixty diameter at the top, and sixty feet vertical height ; being, when sunk in the sea, thirty to thirty-four feet immersed at the low water of high tides. These enormous broad-bottomed tubs, being constructed of oak, with every attention to strength and solidity, when finished for launching, were loaded with stone just sufficient for sinking. To float them, six empty casks, each of ten pipes, were attached around by cords, and in this state of buoyancy the enormous machine was floated to its destined spot, towed by numberless vessels. At a signal, the cords are cut in a moment, and the pile sinks ; it is then filled instantly with stone from the vessels ready attending, and capped with masonry.

A vast number of vessels are then employed to form a bank of stone from cone to cone, visible at low water in neap tides. Eighteen cones, by one account, but B ENTRANCE OF THE HARBOUR. The entrance to the harbour is defended on the north side by a very strong fort, built on a rock about three miles from the main land, by Louis XVI. Bonaparte intended to erect one similar to it, at nearly the same distance from the opposite point; the site ofthe cones lying in a direct line between the two. He was at an enormous expense in forming a foundation, which was at last completed, and on this artificial island the works were begun; but a very high tide, on the 4th of November, 1808, breaking over it, and sweeping away five hundred workmen, all further attempts were given up, and nothing is now left but a heap of stones.

The emperor considered the port of Cherbourg to be of the utmost importance. He enlarged the dock-yards, and made an immense basin or inner harbour, communicating with the outer one by means of flood-gates or locks. But although he frequently came himself to inspect the improvethirty-three by another, would complete the work. I found eight finished. The effect of these eight cones, and the bank of stone formed between them, has been to give perfect security to a considerable portion of the intended harbour. Two forty-gun ships have lain at anchor within them these eighteen months past. These ships have not received the smallest agitation : hence it is a harbour for a small fleet, without doing more. I mounted two of the cones, one of which has this inscription : ' Louis XVI. sur ce premiere C6ne echoue le 6 Juin, 1784, a vu l'immersion de celui de Test le 23 Juin, 1786.' On the whole, the undertaking is a prodigious one, and does no trifling credit to the spirit of enterprise of the present age in France." — Travels in France, in the years 1787, 1788, and 1789, by Arthur Young.

CUSTOM-HOUSE HOTELS. ments, the dams and other works were not com pleted, and still remain in an unfinished state. A handsome fort stands on the south shore, where likewise the dock-yards are situated. The view on entering the harbour is picturesque ; a bold rock rises on the left, the town is built on a flat, and the country behind it swells into knolls prettily wooded. As soon as we landed we were conducted to the custom-house, and underwent a very strict scru tiny : the women were examined in a separate apartment by one of their own sex. The persons of the passengers were searched as well as their luggage; and a cambric-muslin handkerchief, not being hemmed, was taken from the neck of a Frenchman. As we had nothing with us of English manufacture, except what was made up into articles of dress, we had no difficulties but on account of a few books, and some old newspapers in which they happened to be wrapped.

The custom-house officers took some pains to ascertain that the books were not designed for sale, or the newspapers for circulation. They are very circumspect in regard to the introduction of newspapers by private hands, as well as of letters, for which there is a high penalty. Two handsome hotels stand on the quay, but we had been advised to go to a private hotel near it, in la Rue Notre Dame, kept by a Mons. Drouet, who had resided at Southampton many years, and married an Englishwoman. Our dinners were English, our beds good, the charges were reasona- MODES OF CONVEYANCE. ble, and we found Mons. Drouet very useful in getting our luggage from the custom-house, our passports signed, and in giving us what informa tion we required. There are three eligible modes of conveyance for travellers in France : by the diligences, which are now established on all the great roads; by hiring a carriage and horses from a voiturier for the journey; or by taking post horses at every stage.

The first is the cheapest method, and the passengers usually get to their journey's end with out delay or imposition; but they are in some measure prisoners on the road, and can see very little of the country through which they pass. The second subjects the traveller to the control of the voiturier, so far as relates to the length of the day's journey, and the time and place for the horses to bait ; and likewise it lays him under the necessity of making an agreement in regard to the charge, with a great probability of being imposed upon. From eighteen to twenty francs per day is reckoned a fair price for a cabriolet and two horses ; paying, in addition, for the time they take in returning back : and from thirty to forty miles is considered to be a good day's journey, excepting, perhaps, in the very middle of summer.

Those who travel post must have carriages of their own, as the masters of the post-horses do not provide them as they do in England. This is a more ex pensive way of travelling than either of the others ; but then you are at liberty respecting the hours of setting out and stopping on the road, and have the FRENCH DILIGENCE. 7 advantage of being exempt from imposition ; for the post-horses being under the regulation of government, the price is fixed, both for the horses and the postilions, and published: so that if any extortion should be attempted, or dispute arise, a reference to the post-book decides the matter im mediately. One franc ten sous per poste* is the stated charge for each horse, and fifteen sous for the postilion; but it is an established custom to give the latter thirty soust.

As our plan was to travel post, our first concern was to purchase a carriage and post-book; but although Cherbourg is a large and populous town, containing fourteen thousand inhabitants, yet we could not meet with either the one or the other, and therefore resolved to go in the diligence as far as Valognes, a distance of fifteen miles J. A French diligence is a thing of no great pro mise, unwieldy in size, with a cabriolet attached to it before, where three people may sit as com modiously as in a gig; and the luggage thrown together behind into an enormous heap, and thatched with straw : it has the appearance of a barn set upon wheels, with a cow-shed in the front * A poste is two French leagues, six French miles. FRENCH. ENGLISH. + 1 Sou is 5 centiemes . . 1 halfpenny. 1 Franc is 20 sous . . . 10 pence. 1 Napoleon is 20 francs . . 16 shillings and 8 pence. \ The distances throughout the journey are computed from the post-book, allowing six miles for every French poste; which however appeared to us short.

A French poste would not pro bably measure more than five English miles. VALOGNES. and a hay-stack in the rear. It is, however, safe, easy, and tolerably expeditious, which are the material things; " the rest is all but leather or prunella." The diligence from Cherbourg to Caen sets off every morning at ten o'clock; and on Friday, August 16, we took our places to Valognes. On our arrival there, we desired our luggage might be conveyed to the inn, which was at some distance from the part of the town where we alighted: two women undertook the business with great alacrity, and put the trunks on a little cart; one of the damsels placed herself in the shafts, the other pushed behind, and we followed them to the Hotel du Grand Turc, where we were very courteously received, although there was nothing very stylish in the circumstances of our arrival.

We staid a few days, having some friends resident in the town. Valognes was formerly inhabited by many of the French nobility ; the houses are good, and the streets wide and clean; but its situation is not pleasant, nor is the country round pretty. There are no public walks, the climate appears to be damp, and the town dull and thinly inhabited. A large church stands in the centre of the town, and on Sunday, I believe, the whole population were assembled there; for it was not only crowded within, but we saw a great number of people kneeling on the outside every time we passed that way, though the weather was cold and rainy. Not being able to meet with a carriage to suit VALOGNES. 9 us, we applied to a voiturier, who demanded a hundred and sixty francs to take us to Caen. We offered him sixty; and, after some demurs, he acquiesced, and promised that we should have a superb cabriolet and three horses; but in the morning it came to the door of the hotel drawn by two only.

On our remonstrating, he assured us that he had but two, otherwise he would have given us three, according to the agreement: how ever, two were the same thing, c'est egal, two were as good as three. So, argument being vain, and the weather inviting, we got into the carriage. One very large horse was in the shafts, and the other, a very small one, was fastened on the near side with traces of rope long enough to allow him to go so far on before as to carry the legs of the driver, who rode upon his back, beyond the reach of the ends of the shafts. The postilions being now dressed something like the English, in short jackets and round hats, the French travelling equipage has lost much of its grotesque and ludicrous appearance. When we visited the continent some years ago, we landed at Havre, and purchased there a large coach, which had once belonged to a Danish ambassador, and retaining a remnant of its diplomatic grandeur, displayed on the white ground of its pannels some golden ornaments, whicli contrasted comically with the rope harness and unkemped state of the horses : we were drawn by six, with manes and tails " that swept the morning dew."

Our postilions had hats upon their heads with low crowns VALOGNES. and ample brims flapping on their shoulders ; their legs were in jack boots, hanging to their saddles like two buckets. They flourished their long whips with such a loud cracking noise, that the air rung with the sound, whilst the horses squealed and neighed in concert. Off we went full tilt, every horse adopting the pace he liked best: one ambling, another trotting, and a third galloping; the rate was fixed by the postilion, the rest was left to the discretion of the horse. I laughed for half an hour at the tout ensemble of the thing. The distance from Valognes to Caen is about sixty miles the nearest way, which lies through Isigny; but there is a little inlet of the sea, which can be crossed only when the tide is out, and the diligences go the other road, by St. Lo.

But we preferred that by Isigny, and set out on Monday, the 19th. The morning was beautiful, and we enjoyed the sunshine exceedingly after the cold wet weather we had so long experienced. The country round Valognes is chiefly inclosed with high ditch banks and ragged hedges ; a con siderable proportion is pasturage. The sheep are tied together in couples, and the cows are tethered. The women milk into large brass jugs, capable of containing three or four gallons each, which are carried slung over one shoulder ; and being kept very bright, make a conspicuous figure in the sunshine. The clover appeared to be very luxuriant : a small quantity is cut at a time, and brought to market for immediate use. We saw hay lyinoon the ground nearly spoiled by the continual rain; BAYEUX. 11 and though it was so late in the season as the 19th of August, much of the grass remained un mowed.