Travels, comprising observations made during a residence in the Tarentaise, and various parts of the Grecian and Pennine Alps, and in Switzerland and Auvergne, in the years 1820, 1821, and 1822. Illustrated by coloured-engravings and numerous wood cuts, etc

Front matter

> TRAVELS, COMPRISING OBSERVATIONS MADE DURING A RESIDENCE IN THE TARENTAISE, AND VARIOUS PARTS OF THE GRECIAN AND PENNINE ALPS AND IN STVITZERLAND AND AUVERGNE, IN THE YEARS 1820, 1821, and 1822. ILLUSTRATED BY COLOURED ENGRAVINGS AND NUMEROUS WOOD CUTS, FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS AND SECTIONS. By R. BAKEWELL, Esg. Ignotis errare locis, ignota videre Flumina gaudebat, studio minuente laborem. Ovid. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, OEME, AND BROWN, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1823. London : Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, New-Street- Square. CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

Chapter I

Page The Aiguille de Dru. — Upper End of the Valley of Chamouny. — The Col de Balme. — Secondary Strata, Geological Inferences from their Position. — Annual Appearance of Red Snow on the Alps. — Diminution of Alpine Snow by Evaporation. — Inhabitants of Chamouny 1 CHAP. II. GENEVA. Arrival at Geneva, its Extent and Population. — Observations on the Independence of the Republic. — Adulatory Speech of one of the Syndics. — General Appearance of the City and Inhabitants. — Practical Influence of the Writings of Rousseau on the Genevese. — Country round Geneva. — The climate. — Severe Shock of an Earthquake. — Conflagration of the Village of Monetier. — A CONTENTS. Page Judicious Charity of the Genevese. — Village of the Little Saconnex. — Fine View of the Alps from thence. — Madame Neckar 37 CHAP. III.

State of Morals in Geneva. — Parental Authority, Filial Affection. — Societes de Dimanches. — Economy. — Avarice. —- Boarding-houses. — Celebrated Female Alchemist, her History. — Frequency of Suicide, Reflections respecting its Causes. — Rarity of Public Executions. — Present Constitution of Geneva. — Politics of the Genevese - 71 CHAP. IV. Ancient Government of Geneva. — The Establishment of Geneva as an Independent Republic. — Election and Public Procession of the Syndics. — A remarkable Oration delivered on the Occasion. — Establishment of the Reformed Religion at Geneva. — Arrival of Calvin ; extreme Austerity of his Manners. — His Intolerance and Cruelty. — Execution of Nicholas Antoine. — The Genevese Pastors renounce the persecuting Principles of Calvin. — Recent Schism in the Genevese Church.

H- English Congregation at Geneva. — Style of Preaching in Geneva. — Religious Education of both Sexes. — Public Admission of the Catechumens as Members of the Church. — College and Public Schools. — On the Eligibility of Geneva as a Temporary Residence for English Families, or as a Place of Education for British Youth. — Observance of Sundays at Geneva ______ CONTENTS. V Page 158 199 CHAP. V. Geneva to Lausanne. — Comparison between the Lake Scenery of Great Britain and Switzerland. — Country round Berne. — Aristocracy of Berne. — Power of the People Expulsion of M. Haller from the Senate. — Cabinet of Professor Meissner. — Public Museum. — Bernese Oberland. — Lake of Thoum. — Residence at Interlaken. — Grindelwald. — Melancholy Accident in the Glaciers. — Passage of the Wengen Alps. — Avalanches. — Valley of Lauterbrun. — Lake of Brientz. — Meyrengen. — New Sect of Adamites. — Peasantry of the Oberland CHAP. VI.

Berne to Fribourg. — Superstition of the Fribourgers. — Fribourg to Vevey and Bex. — Medical effects of a Grape Diet. — The Vallais, or Upper Valley of the Rhone. — General View of its Physical Geography. — Dangers to which the Inhabitants are exposed. — Emigrations. — Zoology and rare Minerals. — Religion. — Ancient Customs. — Constitution of the Canton. — Sion. — Baths of Leuk. — Breig. — Baths of Naters. — The Semplon Route. — Descent into Italy. — Laggo Maggore. — Difference between the Southern and Northern Side of the Central Range of the Alps. — Return through Savoy. — Evian. — Thonon. — Ripaille CHAP. VII. Geneva to Lyons and Clermont. — Passage of L'Ecluse. — Observations on the Causes by which VI CONTENTS. Page 255 293 it was opened. — Perte de Rhone. — Fossils in its Vicinity. — Bellegarde. — Approach to Lyons.

A comparative View of Lyons with the large Ma nufacturing Towns in England. — Hospital and Antiquities. — Notre Dame de Fourviere. — Excursion on the Saone. — Coal in the Vicinity of Lyons. — Iron Manufactures near Feurs. — Thiers. — Pont Sur L'Allieer - CHAP. VIII. AUVERGNE. Discovery of the Volcanoes of Auvergne, in 1751. — A General View of the Volcanic Mountains near Clermont. — Excursion to the Puy de Pariou, &c. — Appearance of the Inhabitants of the Mountains. — The Puy de Dome. — Observations on the Lava and Crater of Pariou. — Montadoux. — The Puy de Charrade. — Volcano of Gravenire. — Puy de la Poix. — Puy de Cruelle. Observations on the Remarkable Position of the Beds of Tuffa. — Visit to Gergovia. — The Author discovers Bones of large Quadrupeds in the Limestone under this Mountain. — City of Clermont - - CHAP. IX.

Clermont to Riom. — Lava of Volvic. — Volcano and Crater of Nugerre. — Observations on its Internal Form. — On the Granite in which the Volcanoes of Auvergne are placed. — Excursion to the Puy de Chopine. — A thunder-storm on the Mountains. — A General View of certain Volcanic Mountains connected with the Puy de Chopine. — Opinions of several Geologists respect- CONTENTS. VII Page 345 397 ing them. — Puy de Chopine, a Mountain partly composed of Granite and partly of Volcanic Matter, placed within a large Crater. — Volcanic Mountains South of Clermont; their Similarity to Rocks regarded as Primitive. — On the Proba bility of Future Volcanic Eruptions in Auvergne. Catholic Missionaries in France. — Riom to Paris. — Moulins. — Nevers. — Montargis. — Fontainbleau. — Porcelain Manufacture of Seves. — Funeral of the Abbe Haiiy - - -