Sixteen Years in the West Indies

Chapter I. Trinidad

So many works having lately been written on the West Indies, perhaps it may appear egotistical in me to presume that I can offer any thing new ; but a residence of sixteen years may have enabled me to see many VOL I. B TRINIDAD. places, which mere travellers amongst these colonies have passed over ; and such I hope will be found to be the case by those persons who may favor me by a perusal of these volumes. Nor is egotism the only charge I have to dread. I fear a want of order will be found in my arrangement ; for, as my visits to the different Islands were many, and at various periods, I cannot fashion my notes into the form of a regular tour. Apologising therefore for any want of method they may discover, and bidding them remember, 1 did not run through the Islands in one of the Royal Mail Packets, merely catching a passing glance of the beautiful objects which even such a visit would present, but that I travelled into the interior, climb ing many of the mountains, exploring the valley.?, lingering for months together amongst the people, or in the towns, I will tax their patience no longer with further preamble ; but commence my wanderings, with an account of Trinidad, as I saw it both before and after the emancipation.

TRINIDAD. On the fourteenth of May, 1839, I left Tobago, in H.M.S. Delight, (such is I believe the orthodox manner of commencing a tour,) wishing to reach Port of Spain as speedily as possible. The sea was rough, the weather fine, though somewhat hazy, and as the packet kept away from the coast I could not enjoy so good a view of the scenery as is generally obtained. At an early hour of the evening we glided past the North Post, and a little before sunset entered, through the Grand Boca into the beautiful gulf of Paria. The wind then became adverse to our reaching Port of Spain, but as the mists dispersed, we had, so long as daylight lasted, an interesting, though transient view of that part of the South American coast, called Cumana — interesting from associations con nected with the past ; for, however opposed to the sentimental the traveller may be such a spot must recal the memory of Columbus and his gallant crew, who first sailed into that gulf, visited, and bestowed its present appellation upon the Island to which we were hastening under such b TRINIDAD. different auspices.

And if Columbus could be forgotten when regarding Trinidad for the first time, the sight of the Caroni, as it dashes its billows to the ocean, would lead the beholder to the time, a few years later, when Sir Walter Raleigh made his successful attack upon San Joseph. That Columbus discovered Trinidad, is beyond all doubt ; whether he resided there and explored a considerable part of it, as many of its inhabitants believe, I leave others to decide ; but his name, and that of Sir Walter Raleigh, give such an interest to the scene as I should be sorry to have taken from me. And the next morning when the sun rose, and, as the day advanced, shone brightly, on the shores on either side of the gulf, on its different islets, and gilded the town and shipping in the harbour of Port of Spain, I could not avoid thinking what a contrast all presented to the 31st of July 1498 — when first, as Washington Irvine, so beautifully describes it, Columbus sent his boats on shore to obtain water.

But a truce to all TRINIDAD. 5 this sentiment and digression. Trinidad is no longer inhabited by Caribs ; and the fishers' palm leaved huts are now lost in the magnificent buildings of Port of Spain. Breakfast was just finished on board the Packet when smoke rising from the Paria steam vessel denoted its immediate departure for Point la Brea. Near Point la Brea, lies thecelebrated PitchLake — and Iinvoluntarily expressed a wish not to lose such an opportunity of visiting it. The Captain kindly offering to send me on board the Paria, I hastily took leave of my fellow passengers, jumped into a boat and rowed briskly on towards the steam vessel, already on its way ; in an hour I stood on its deck, and was proceeding with celerity past the quarter of S , and so close in shore as to afford me a view of the estates on that coast, and the adjoining district of San Fernando, where we stopped a short time to land and receive passengers, goods, &c. This ceremony completed, we proceeded on to Point la Brea, where we anchored TRUNIDAD. about four o'clock p m. I dined on board, for as the sun was intensely hot I resolved not proceed on my projected excursion till the cool of evening.

As soon as the heat became less oppressive I went on shore accompanied by the captain of the steam-boat and one of the passengers, made a short visit to a gentleman in charge of an estate, to which, as he told me, a part, at least, if not the whole of the lake belongs, and then started eager for a sight of that wonderful phenomenon regarded as the greatest natural curiosity of Trinidad. During our walk over a broad and then very hard road about a mile in length, I was surprised by the sight of a very large locust tree, which 1 think has never been mentioned by any writer. It is rather singular it should have been unnoticed, for, in addition to its being very unusual to see these trees in frequented places, it is not far distant from the lake, on the right of the pathway, and certainly forms one of the most at tractive objects.

TRINIDAD. I saw one of these trees in Tobago, of considerable height, having forty or fifty feet of straight trunk, large in circumference, before the branches commence, and then apparently extending as many more to the topmost bough ; it was profusely laden with fruit which consists of pods, in shape like a bean, the shell of which is ex tremely hard, and thick as a Spanish dollar. These pods vary in size from three to eight inches in length and from one to four in thickness or depth, are of the colour of tanned leather, and rough like a shagreen case. When opened, which is not effected without some difficulty, the natives take out a sort of friable pith not unpleasant to the taste, having a slight resemblanee to ginger bread, but dry and husky ; each pod contains three grains, or seeds, about the size of a large filbert, rather red in colour, when first taken out, but soon turning black as jet, can easily be polished, and being very hard, capable of being converted into ornaments, TRINIDAD. &c. The pod itself is made into snuff boxes, powder flasks, &c. Labat, a celebrated French author, tells of having made many small articles from the pod of the courbari or locust tree, but he was mistaken in asserting that it bears fruit twice in twelve months, like all other fruit trees in the West Indies.

In Tobago, where I saw this magnificent tree, the inhabitants esteem it a fortuitous circumstance if they obtain a good crop once each year. It re quires a growth of many years to bring these trees to perfection which accounts for their rarity and the comparatively few planted, whilst an infinite number have been cut down by Europeans for the sake of the wood, which is useful for axle-trees and wood-work for mills. The leaves are of a dark green colour, rather small in comparison to the size of the branches and fruit, forming a beautiful contrast to the flowers, wliich are of a yellowish white and of oval shape. The tree I now regarded was not of such TRINIDAD. 9 large dimensions, but its beautiful branches were be idiug under the weight of fruit such as I have described. It was sunset when we reached the lake and the air deliciously cool, thus enabling us to traverse its vast surface without dif ficulty, more particularly as planks were placed across the fissures or chasms, so ac curately described by Doctor Nugent of Antigua, and inserted in the work of Mrs. Carmichael.

To me the lake had the ap pearance of an immense level plain with here and there thickets of shrubs, grass and trees growing out of the bitumen, which was then of a very dark colour and generally quite hard ; some few places yielded to the impression of the foot and were of the consistency of pitch. The water flowing through the chasms was perfectly clear but luke-warm and of a disagreeable, acid taste. This warmth, no doubt, was owing to the heat of the sun, which, however, had no effect upon the solid part of the surface which was quite dry b TRINIDAD. though the day had been one of the hottest ever known. Sir James Alexander, in his account of this extraordinary place, says " The heat of the surface obliged me to dance up and down from the scorching of my feet, having taken off my shoes to wade through the broad chasms of water, across which, at that time, there were no planks."

Probably Sir James visited it under mid-day heat, or that the effect of the sun is not always the same ; certain it is, that this evening, the surface of the lake was quite cool though the sun was still above the horizon. I was in hopes I should have found ships at La Brea laden with the matter dug from the lake, but the ardour, which for a time prevailed, in search of what was considered highly valuable, had abated. Cargos of it that had been shipped to England wore not approved, the different trials made were declared failures, and though in some parts of France it was said to answer for improving foot paths, in the manner it is TRINIDAD. used for roads in the vicinity of the lake and the district of Naparima, few hopes were entertained of its becoming more useful. Still, though the prospect of its ever being a source of wealth appears closed, a time may come when some qualities more available may be discovered.

A great deal of the bitumen is used for fuel in the distillation of rum, and partially in the sugar manufactories, as well as for steam navigation : and the question has arisen in my mind whether it could not be made of use in gas works. All this must be the result of experiment and time. I was disappointed in seeing the bitumen taken from the lake, but I did not enjoy the beauties of its diversified margin the less ; shrubs, trees, aloes, flowers and pine apples, all luxuriate around it, and during the day, birds and butterflies flying hither and thither, detract from the loneli ness of the scene. We gathered a pine apple, the only one we found ripe, the TRINIDAD. captain pared and divided it with his cut lass, and we enjoyed its fine flavour. We lingered till the calm stillness of night imparted an aspect of gloom, which, my curiosity satisfied, I gladly exchanged for hospitable refreshment at the house of the gentleman before named.

I felt no wish to prolong my stay at La Brea, which, though prettily situated, is only a small village consisting of poorly built cottages, the only one of neat ap pearance being that of our host. Ten o'clock found me on board the steam-boat, in which, next morning, we weighed anchor to return to Port of Spain, steering in the first instance for San Fernando, a distance of thirty miles, along a shore rich in luxuriant estates, cane fields sprinkled amongst noble forests, and conspicuous from their bright, green houses with their pleasure grounds stretching down to the water's edge, interspersed with cocoa-nut and palm trees. Whilst we stopped at San Fernando which is much superior to La Brea and TRINIDAD. pleasantly situated at the foot of the mountain, I paid a hasty visit to the barracks, erected on a gentle eminence immediately above the town and then occupied by an officer and forty men belonging to the 74 Regiment.

The meeting a friend, and the sight of numerous pretty houses in the vicinity of this little town, made me enjoy this interruption in my voyage ex ceedingly, and I think had I known, that, from the boat having approached very near to the landing-place for the convenience of the passengers, and the tide falling, we should have been detained an hour, San Fernando would have been my resting place for the night. But at length we got clear of the mud, and the continued loveliness of the shore soon made me forget the vexation I had felt at the delay. Near Point a Pierre a magnificent estate called Plaisance was pointed out to me, and how much I wished to land and examine the warm springs situated on it ; but there was no vessel near to convey me to them, so I could TRINIDAD. only promise myself that excursion another time.

I landed at Port of Spain, after four years absence, late at night — hastened to an hotel and betook myself to that rest the exertion of the previous two days de manded. TRINIDAD. 15

Chapter II

Next morning my first care was to repair to the Packet, Delight, to seek, for the luggage I left on board when I so hurriedly transferred myself to the Paria — that duty performed, I returned to the Hotel to breakfast, then waited upon the acting governor, visited some friends, and passed the remainder of the day rambling about the town. Four years had witnessed great alterations and improvements, and as I walked through the TRINIDAD. long wide streets all running parallel to the sea, and shaded with trees, looked on its splendid buildings all of stone and uniform in appearance, and inhaled the delicious breeze from the ocean, I could but own the truth of the general assertion, that Port of Spain is the finest town in the West Indies ; whilst its situation on the shore of the splendid Gulf of Paria, scarcely, I think, surpassed by that of Naples, the highly cultivated lands around producing all the luxuries of life, the entire freedom from hurricanes, which cause such devastation in many of the other colonies, and the exemption in a great degree from fatal sickness, combine to make it the most desirable as a residence.

I dined that day with my friend Dangaud, and made the first arrangement to commence my tour by borrowing his chaise to take me to San Joseph, the following morning after I had taken leave of the acting Governor and his family at the Government House, St. Ann's, and enjoyed a stroll through the beautiful grounds attached to that domain. TRINIDAD. 17 On my road to San Joseph, I saw, for the first time in the West Indies, a turnpike gate. This, and many other objects I had previ ously seen, recalled to mind the late Sir Ralph Woodford, who offered to make turnpike roads through the colony if the inhabitants would consent to pay toll. This proposition, had it been acceded to, would have proved a means of great prosperity, but the affluent inhabitants, from a feeling I can not understand, declined the offer.

San Joseph, the ancient capital of the Island, is a quiet, healthy spot, frequently serving as a convalescent post for the troops at St. James's, and certainly for such a purpose no place could be better chosen. The in habitants complain of its dulness, for their solitude is no longer enlivened by the band of the 1st W. I. Regt., to which they had been accustomed from 1825, till the chieftain, Donald Stewart, excited his African followers, then his fellow soldiers, (all being alike, enlisted recruits of the 1st W. I. Regt.) to revolt. But the beauty of its situation TRINIDAD. renders it a most interesting spot, and of its dulness I saw nothing ; many kind friends were there to give me a warm welcome, and I hastened to meet them, resolving San Joseph should be my head quarters for a few weeks, to enable me to enjoy their society in the intervals of coming and going.

There were several estates in the neighbourhood I wished to see, and I should thus diversify my pleasures. The barracks were now occupied by two officers and forty men of the 1st W. I. Regt., an officer and twenty men of the 74th Regt., and a staff assistant surgeon, whose office was nearly a sinecure, this year at least, although, he assured me, the previous one had been very unhealthy. When at San Joseph, I never neglect to enjoy the luxury of abath in the river, which in one part forms a natural basin never less than eight feet deep, with a fine sandy bottom. A shelving rock a few feet above the surface invites the practiced swimmer to a dive, whilst one less skilful may choose TRINIDAD. a little to the right, where the depth varies from one to four feet, a spot, to indulge in a similar pleasure.

But let both the practiced and unskilful swimmer beware of the shoals of small fish perceptible on both sides, or, on the slightest cessation of move ment, he will be attacked by those biting creatures, and the enjoyment of his bath destroyed. I had intended to go to Arima early the next morning, but the difficulty of procuring a horse detained me. To hire one was not prac ticable ; the officers had none, or I should have been instantly supplied ; and here let me ob serve that it would be advisable for the Govern ment to allow every officer, in the West Indies, forage for a horse, or the means of keeping one. However, the delay was not to be regretted as I was enabled to par ticipate in the pleasure of a dinner given by the officer of the 74th Regt., to celebrate the christening of his child.

A horse, at last, was kindly lent to me, TRINIDAD. and much obliged I felt for the loan, but surely such an animal never before tried the patience of an impatient traveller. It had a sore back, and had lost a shoe, but the hope of getting another, or a mule to supply its place, from some friend on the road, in duced me to proceed though it was but slowly. Disappointment met me everywhere, so I was obliged to conquer my impatience, and stifle as well as I could my feelings of pity for the creature I bestrode, and jog on. As a proof of the extreme dryness of the season, I state, that on arriving at the ford of San Joseph, intersecting the river, I found it quite dry, and such had seldom if ever before been the case. The road was very dusty, the sun intensely hot, and even after its decline the air very sultry, but the beautiful scenery around compensated for these inconveniences.

Lovely as ever looked the estates, Streatham Lodge, El Dorado, Orange Grove, Paradise, Laurel Hill, the Garden, and various others to the right and TRINIDAD. left offering to view superb liouses, extensive pastures (many of which resemble the parks of noblemen or gentlemen in England), and luxuriant full grown sugar canes, with a variety of trees, shrubs, and flowers. All these beauties with the many coloured birds flut tering in every direction tended to divert the tedium of a compulsory slow ride. Arima is estimated at only eleven miles distance from San Joseph, but the state of my horse and the calls I made on my way, though brief ones, prevented my reaching the house of Mr. S , the corregidor, till past seven o'clock. Nothing can be more refreshing than hospitality such as I received from Mr. S , who, though not able to accommo date me in his own house, directed the Casa-real to be opened, and everything pro vided for my comfort, that of the men who accompanied me, and for my poor horse.

To Mr. S — y, the Abbe, or curate of the village, I was also indebted for much kind attention. Both he and the Corregidor opposed my determination to continue my TRINIDAD. tour to Band a Leste the following morning, urging that the season was too far advanced, and heavy rain, such as would render the ronds impassable from the overflow of the rivers, might be daily and hourly expected — particularly after the long drought of the present year — another reason they alleged for my stay was, that the horse would be better. These arguments were very good, but I knew I could get a mule at Touroure, and the weather was now fine. Like the generality of mankind, as the present was propitious, I did not regard the future, so, on the twentieth of May, taking farewelkof the Corregidor and the Curate — the former giving me a sketch of part of my route, and the latter a cup of delicious coffee, I set out for Touroure.

Hitherto, I had travelled what is con sidered in the West Indies a good carriage road, but towards Touroure, the country as sumed a wild aspect — the road becoming bad, then worse and worse, being intersected by the rivers, Arima, Maher, Guampo, TRINIDAD. Arips, Valentia, Quarro, &c, &c. Sugar canes are seen in great abundance the whole ride from Port of Spain to Arima, but no cocoa trees till after leaving the latter, then increasing in number to Guampo, at wliich place are estates of that produce to some ex tent, belonging to French and Spanish families. The cultivation of cocoa was formerly a source of great emolument ; but the demand basso decreased that thousands and thousands of those trees, once so valuable, now obtain but a slender subsistence for the possessors. Gigantic trees of various kinds attracted my notice — the most conspicuous amongst which was the Balatas.

The only place of entertainment at Touroure, or indeed for many miles distance, is kept, or was at that time, by an old Sergeant of one of the West Indian Regi ments, who has, with more of his discharged companions, located there for some years. His thatched cottage afforded no good ' enter tainment for man and beast,' yet I was glad to rest beneath its roof for an TRINIDAD. hour, and to leave my horse in his care till my return, taking instead a small mule with a very bad character to carry me on to Manzanilla. A searcher after adventures or a lover of the picturesque would be delighted with a ride through such an almost impassable wilderness as it is from Touroure to Manzan illa, the road intersected by frightful ravines across which, in many places, were rough, slippery trunks of trees, scarcely wide enough for a footstep, whilst the wooden bridges over some of the streams or rivulets were no less difficult to cross.

I encountered about forty of these rustic bridges, over which I walked, but the mule, who evidently did not wish to retrieve his bad character, was obliged to be hauled by ropes through the muddy water by two strong men. In the rainy season these rivulets rise to a great height and overflow the banks, but now, the water being shallow, the banks were high and the mud very deep. A great want of cultivation appeared all TRINIDAD. 25 around me, but the trees were beautiful, and amongst them the balatas and silk mahot especially claimed my admiration, the latter from the peculiarity of its fruit (if I may so term it,) which, with the exception of the toes, perfectly resembles the foot of a hare. It was dark when I came to the begin ning of the quarter called Manzanilla, and in the obscurity, crossing a small bridge that appeared to me formed of smooth planks but which was in reality a round, slippery trunk of a tree, the mule fell and I was precipitated with some little violence on to the hard wood, my face much bruised, my eye much cut.

Judge then how glad I felt to reach " The Place," and, though I found there but poor accommodation, having only a hammock to sleep in, how I enjoyed my rest. Those who love early rising and a walk on the sea shore can imagine why I, in spite of the pain in my face, was up with the birds and hastened to gaze on the sea for the first time on the eastern coast of vol. i. c TRINIDAD. Trinidad, and how I relished a breakfast after such a ramble. Again I went along the seashore towards Mayaro, and at eleven came to Nariva ; there crossing the river Mitan proceeded, still by the sea, to the river Ortoire, which I also forded, and leaving the shore took a path to the right leading through corn fields to an estate called Malgre tout, leaving wliich to the right, I again emerged on the beach. The gentleman I wished to see at Nariva was gone to Mayaro on magisterial business, and thither I followed, having made an appointment to call on him as I returned from Beau Sejour, the property of two gentlemen, one of whom, perceiving my approach, and recognizing by the aid of a lorgnette who it was, came forward with a cordial welcome.

We had not met for five years, and I own I was surprised at his discovering me, dis guised as I was in a strange kind of travel ling garb and a biuised face. In his wife, to whom he had been recently united, I recognised a niece of my old friend Mon- TRINIDAD. sieur Germon, who had resided many years at San Joseph, and whose hospitable doors were always open to the officers. I was especially a favored guest, and when he left to return to France, and pressed me to accompany him, nothing but my duty as a soldier prevented me. I was in good health, and though certain of obtaining leave of absence, I refrained from asking. We parted full of hope in another meeting, but soon after his arrival at Toulouse, Monsieur Germon was taken ill, and died, Je vais retourner a vous mes quatre vingt dix enfans, was his expression, in parting, to the ninety slaves on his estate ; and when I lost a valued friend, they were deprived of the best of masters.

Soon after my arrival the associe came, and joined in hospitable attentions to the traveller — making a pleasant addition to our party, and assisting in inducing me to promise to stay and inspect the sugar works and other parts of the estate. The principal dwelling house of Beau Sejour is advantageously situated on a gentle einic TRINIDAD. nence looking over a fine pasture, or rather lawn, and level lands filled with luxuriant sugar canes, extending to the sea shore ; whilst in front, inclining a little to the right, in the distance, is Point Galeota : the whole well watered, the lands rich, fertile, and extensive. The river Ortoire, flowing through a great part of the estate, is of good width, and navigable for boats to a considerable distance. I have been all my life a .soldier, and am, therefore, but little skilled in the technical terms proper to describe steam engines and sugar mills, but those at Beau Sejour appeared perfect ; and such of my readers as may re gret the omission, I refer to a work by a clever English gentleman, published in London,* and which contains a full description of the cultivation of the sugar cane, the mills and the whole process of distillation.

Had I read this valuable description, before viewing these mills how much more interesting would everything have seemed. * " Nature and Cultivation of the Sugar Cain." By G. R. Porter, Esq. TRINIDAD. 29 The greatest drawback to agriculture in the West Indies is the idleness of the Negroes, who work only four hours in the day, and then, notwithstanding the high wages they obtain, very negligently. Three quarters of a dollar each per diem, or rather for four hours superficial work, besides other advantages equivalent to a dollar, four shillings and two-pence British, is what is usually paid to them, many will not work at all as long as they have any money, and, upon the slightest word of re proach, quit the estate for ever. My friends were in great anxiety, lest. through the misconduct of these wilful labourers, the crops of this year should be lost, and as every month increases their insolence there was a worse prospect for the future.

The principal estates in the district of Mayaro are Malgretout, Mayaro, Beau Se jour, Plaisance, Saint Margaret, Lagondoux, besides many rural farms where cocoa-nut trees, vegetables and roots, usually termed ground provisions, such as yams, sweet TRINIDAD. potatoes, cassava, tanniers, &c, are culti vated. Near the coast many of the in habitants are chiefly supported by the manufacture of cocoa nut oil. Travellers in the islands must not be particular, they cannot roll along roads smooth as a bowling-green, reposing in their carriages ; nay, like Tantalus, they must sometimes look at luxuries without enjoying them. Thus, nearly the whole way from Manzanilla to Point Galeota, a distance of twenty five or thirty miles, avenues of cocoa nut trees seem to offer you a shelter from the scorching rays of the sun ; but you only escape one dilemma to fall into another ; on the beach you are in danger of being capsized by your horse stumbling against the heaps of broken shells thrown up by the sea on that stormy coast, but in the avenues 'tis impossible to get on at all, for the ground is covered by fallen nuts, and the husks of those which have been opened to obtain the pulp, to extract the oil.