Personal Adventures and Excursions in Georgia, Circassia, and Russia

Front matter

PERSONAL ADVENTURES AND EXCURSIONS _N GEORGIA, CIRCASSIA, AND RUSSIA BY G. POULETT CAMERON, ESQ., L*fc*UTENANT-COLONEL, LATELY EMPLOYED ON A SPECIAL SERVICE IN PERSIA. COMPANION OP THE BATH J KN1&HT COMMANDER OP THE TOWER AND SWORD ; KNIGHT OF THE MILITARY ORDER OF THE CONCEPTION. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1845. FREDERICK SHOBERL, JUNIOR, PRINTER TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT, 51, RUPERT STREET. HAYMARKET, LONDON. TO HENRY, MARQUIS OF LANSDOWNE, E.G., F.R.S., &c. &c, WHOM MEN OF ALL PARTIES AND EVERY SHADE OF POLITICAL OPINION UNITE IN REGARDING WITH RESPECT AND ESTEEM, THIS WORK IS DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR.

Introduction

. The following pages were originally published at the suggestion of Major Shadwell Clerke, K.H., F.R.S., &c, the late editor of the United Service Magazine. When they were first brought to the notice of the public in that Journal, feelings of the bitterest nature against Russia, which then pervaded nearlv all ranks and all parties, had found vent in certainly a most anti- British manner ; not merely in acrimonious invective against the policy and government of the Muscovite Empire, but in heaping every».description of abuse on the personal character of its sovereign, his family nobility, and people en masse. Major Shadwell Clerke, a Peninsula veteran, and who had himself served with the Imperial Forces when Russia was the stedfast ally of England, had in vain exerted himself to check this most injurious and impo litic, as well as ungenerous torrent of ill feeling, which had attained its highest degree of virulent intensity when I returned to London from a particular service

INTRODUCTION.

. VI in Constantinople, Asia Minor, the Black Sea, &c, in the early part of 1840, having only the year previous arrived from St. Petersburg, from a similar tour of duty in Persia, &c. As the circumstances of my situation precluded all interference in politics, had I even been so inclined, and as I had personally witnessed, amidst all the kind ness and hospitality I had experienced in Russia, the heartburning and resentment these attacks occasioned among all classes, including even those whose attachment to the Autocrat, or the institutions of their country, by no means partook of the fervour of the torrid zone, but who yet, naturally enough, felt most deeply the insults and contumely heaped without re serve so indiscriminately upon their race and nation. Major Shadwell Clerke was induced to apply to me, and suggest that the circumstances under which I was placed would perhaps render any observations I might offer regarding Russia worthy of some degree of consideration, as those of a person unbiassed by any partiality, and would tend to soften the angry feelings prevalent against that country, which were fast rising to actual rancour.

Accordingly, some few hght sketches of personal, or military narrative (for of course I could enter upon no other), were prepared, exhibiting the very different sentiments which, whatever might be those of the Muscovite Government, existed, both na tionally and individually, among the great body of the Russian nation towards England and Englishmen.

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. VII Though somewhat more than dubious as to my suc cess, remembering the well-established adage that " he must be a bold champion who ventures singly to com bat against public opinion," I undertook the office ; but, much to my surprise, and certainly extremely to my gratification — whether owing to that spirit of fair play so usually characteristic of British proceedings in general, which, if withheld towards Russia, was most assuredly exercised to the fullest extent towards my unworthy self — the whole press, beginning with Father Times, the Herald, Post, Chronicle, &c, united in bestowing upon the various chapters, including even those which rubbed the hardest against their own pre conceived opinions, the highest degree of commenda tion ; nor was this all, as the favourable impression here described reached to the continent, and one or two French, and several of the German periodicals, noticed the work in a similarly flattering manner.

The latter struck me as the more remarkable, from my being well able, from personal experience, to bear witness to the truth of Mr. Kohl's observation that, throughout Germany, any person presuming to utter even the faintest praise of any thing connected with Russia is immediately set down either as extremely ignorant, or an emissary in the Muscovite interest. Owing, therefore, to the favourable reception the pub lication has hitherto met with, I have been induced to bring forward, and embody the whole in one complete work, which is now submitted to the judgment of the

INTRODUCTION.

. VIII public. The reader, however, is cautioned to remember that he must not enter upon its perusal with an expecta tion of deriving any solid statistical information regarding Russia, its government, or history, the narrative being principally compiled from the military and tra velling journal of one, who from the age of fifteen has passed nearly the whole period of his life mid scenes of wandering adventure, " by flood and field," in almost every quarter of the globe. An occasional English or German critic has remarked, that in the favourable view I have sometimes taken of things in Russia, I have perhaps uninten tionally, and unknowingly, been biassed by the per sonal kindness of the Emperor towards myself, and the splendour and gaieties ofthe Northern Metropolis. To this mode of reasoning I beg leave to offer the most positive dissent ; for, in the first place, relative to St. Petersburg, I must observe, and the reader will perceive, it was the only part of the Czar's vast domi nions to which I imbibed a feeling very closelv resem bling dislike ; while, concerning His Imperial Majesty, I take the liberty of mentioning that my acquaintance with him was of the most limited description, having never been honoured with more than three inter mews, during the whole period of my stay in the capital.

The first was, as I have described, on my presentation ; the second in crossing the Neufskoi, when I very narrowly missed the disagreeable distinc tion of being run over by His Majesty's sledge, whicli

INTRODUCTION.

. IX was tearing along at his usual clipping pace ; and the third was at a ball, when, being engaged for a Polon noise, I was about leading my partner forward (a very pretty girl, by the way), when a gentleman in an embroi dered coat, and cutshorts, stepped up, and walked her off to the Emperor ! Now, so thoroughly ingrate is human nature, that although the world may think I ought to feel more than ordinarily grateful for these two un common marks of distinction, I must confess that notwithstanding both were accompanied with a polite bow, and the latter with a smile (certainly of a some what dubious nature), I heartily wished His Imperial Majesty at the moment (particularly in the last), anywhere but where he was. While on this subject, I shall take the opportunity of noticing the recent work on Russia, published by the Marquis de Custine.

This nobleman, I believe, was at St. Petersburg at the same time as myself, and was received by the Emperor, and the whole of the Imperial family, with the most condescending courtesy and kindness ; in return for which, on quitting the scene where he had been so honourably and hospitably entertained, he published to the whole world a work, not merely abounding in every species of invective against the laws, institutions, and customs of the Muscovite Empire (the which, perhaps, every traveller may claim a right to as public property), but a wanton personal attack upon its sovereign — exhibiting in every light that could render him odious and detestable X

INTRODUCTION.

. throughout the surface of the globe the monarch who, by his own description, had received him with a frank, confiding, and generous welcome. Now, as I am one of that race of whom it used to be observed, " they never forgot a kindness and never for gave a " (there is so much lip-philanthropy in the world in the present day that I think I had better leave the rest of the sentence unfinished) — I suppose it is owing to the savage feelings of the " Mountain," here ditary within me, that I regard the circumstance of repaying open-hearted hospitality and friendly cordiality with slander and malice, as the very extreme of bad taste ; I shall therefore merely observe, that in opposition to the information obtained by the Marquis de Custine, Heaven knows where, I beg to offer what I have gleaned in the course of my journey, from one extremity of Russia to the other, regarding its sovereign, in the peasant's hut, in the frankness of military intercourse, and in the noble's palace, amid all ranks, and all classes, including even gentlemen who have perused, and deeply pondered with enthusiastic fervour, the writings of Rousseau, Voltaire, Mira beau, &c, &c, as well as those who have experienced the severity of his displeasure ; and, many among whom have passed weeks, months, years of their life, mid the dreary snows of the Siberian waste ! — And yet, what is their opinion I They will tell you that the Emperor Nicholas is fearful in his wrath ; arbitrary, despotic, and impe-

INTRODUCTION.

. xi rious ; but with a lofty, high-souled, and generous spirit, joined to a degree of magnanimity which no monarch has ever surpassed. This is the account of those who fear and dislike him. But, what, on the other hand, is heard from others who love, venerate, and revere him I In his conduct as a father, husband, brother, and in every tie of domestic life which com mands esteem and respect from all ; as the ameliora tor, the open and avowed enemy of slavery, and the true and steady friend of the lower classes of his subjects — towards raising whom from tlieir present debased posi tion the whole force of his powerful mind is now turned, by the introduction among them of arts, manufactures, commerce, and improved modes of agriculture, and by whom he is regarded with feelings approaching almost to religious veneration ; — and as the noble, liberal, and generous master, ever mindful of, and prompt to reward with munificence, devotion and attachment to his government ancl person.

As I have heard the last in more than one instance questioned, let me adduce a slight incident, as an example of the truth of what I have asserted. A general officer of distinguished reputation, a foreigner, who had for a number of years been in the Russian army, in the course of a long and brilliant career had rendered to the government services of the highest, most important, and meritorious description. Ap pointments, with princely revenues and emoluments, were showered upon him ; but his was a magnificent

INTRODUCTION.

. XII nature, and the rich remuneration received from a foreign power for service, however faithfully rendered, he deemed ought to be dispensed in the country from whence it was derived. The consequence was that at his death he bequeathed his widow to the paternal care of the Russian government, his children being happily most fortunately settled in life, his two daughters by high and wealthy marriages, and his son by the produce of a manufactory, which his father had presented him on his entering the Cuirassier Guards, which, yielding about £1,200 sterling per annum, enabled him, with ease and respectability, to maintain his position in that brilliant service. The dying veteran's expectations were fully realized by the late Emperor Alexander, immediately after his death, settling a pension upon his widow, amounting to £2,600 a year, English money.

Shortly after the accession of the present sovereign, the manufactory belonging to her son unfortunately caught fire, and was wholly destroyed. This was indeed a severe blow, and as there are not (or rather perhaps 1 should say were not) any Insurance Offices in Russia, the prospects of this fine and gallant soldier seemed irre trievably ruined, and he himself reduced to the worst extreme of poverty. Of course, he immediately tendered the resignation of his commission, which being transmitted to the Emperor, he received an order to be in attendance the following morning. On appearing at the office of the Imperial Etat

INTRODUCTION.

. XIII Major at the appointed hour, he was ushered into the presence of the Autocrat, by whom he was most kindly received, and who, calling his attention to the letter he had forwarded the day previous, desired to know if dislike to the service, or any motive of a similar nature, had been the cause of the step he had taken. The young man with considerable emotion mentioned in reply, that nothing could be farther from the real reason than the one His Majesty had suggested ; that his devotion to his colours was as firm and unchangeable as when he first joined his regiment ; and that nothing but the heavy misfortune which had befallen him (and which the Emperor was well aware rendered his remaining in the corps wholly impossible), would have ever induced him to quit the army. He then detailed the facts connected with the destruction of his property, to the narrative of which the Autocrat listened with the profoundest attention.

At its conclusion, after a short silence, he said : " De B , the remembrance of the great and im portant services rendered by your father to Russia, would alone induce me, were I even otherwise inclined (which from what I have observed of you I most assuredly am not), to assist you in this matter ; but, although I am a rich man, you must be sensible of the numerous claims I possess upon my consideration, and therefore your mother must come forward to assist us. As a single lady, her pension is more than

INTRODUCTION.

. XIV sufficient for her own maintenance, and I feel assured she would make any sacrifice on behalf of her son ; she must therefore allow you from her income the odd six hundred she receives, while I will grant you a similar sum from my own private purse, and thus restore you to your former position. There, no thanks ; I am much occupied just now — (for, with equal tact and delicacy, observing the soldier to be so overpowered with gratitude as to be wholly incapable of uttering a word, he took this method of quietly dis missing him). Rejoin your corps, and let me see you at the head of your squadron on parade to-morrow morning." But, it will be exclaimed, look at his arbitrary, unjust, and despotic acts towards his subjects — his inordinate ambition and extensive aggressions — his oO conduct towards Poland — his designs upon Central Asia — and his endeavours to subvert the British empire in India.

" To the first of these accusations I rejoin, that I have witnessed, and within the last two years, under British rule, acts of individual oppression and injus tice, that could not have been surpassed by any Russian authority throughout the whole of the Mus covite empire, originating too in the most illiberal and unworthy motives. To the second I reply, that the organ of acquisitiveness, from the creation of the world up to the present period, has ever been recognised and understood as the most distinguishing trait in the

INTRODUCTION.

. XV character of monarchs and governments of all nations, and therefore, in my poor estimation, I think it is wholly unreasonable to expect the Emperor Nicholas to step forward as a solitary example to the contrary ; not to mention the reminiscence attached to the old proverb anent " those who live in glass houses throwing stones," which forcibly recurs to memory, after throwing a glance upon the map, and taking a cursory view ofthe possessions of Austria, in Italy — Prussia, on the Rhine — France, in Africa — and England — ahem ! The last of the foregoing accusations is certainly of a far graver and much more serious nature. But I would beg leave to suggest, as the most efficient remedy for the evil, an ambassador being despatched either to the Baltic or the Euxine, (though, by the way, sending one to each would be far better), witb his flag at the main, and a due proportion of attaches in tbe shape of line-of-battle ships, frigates, and steamers, (universally admitted as the ablest and most successful negociators throughout the globe) ; and having displayed his artillery, (pooh ! his credentials I mean), politely intimate to the Czar how extremely distressed the British government are to interfere with © his amusements, but, as they are really of a nature to materially injure pursuits of their own, they would feel deeply indebted to His Imperial Majesty if he would be graciously pleased to discontinue them ! With so reasonable a demand the Emperor is too

INTRODUCTION.

. well bred a man not immediately to comply ! and I would further venture to mention, that such a pro ceeding, in every way worthy of England's fame and glory, would cause her to be regarded with fear and respect ; feelings, I should imagine, of a far higher character than those of anger and contempt, which a contrary course is alone calculated to inspire. G. Poulett Cameron. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. PAGE Introduction v

Chapter I

From Tabreez to Teflis by Nakhsheerwan, Erivan, and Eutch-Miazin (The Three Churches) — The Maiden's Leap. I quitted Tabreez (tbe ancient Tauris) on tbe morning of tbe 15th April, 1838, en route to the North, accompanied for several miles from tbe city by those friends and companions with whom I had been associated on a period of ser vice for the last two years. On bidding farewell to them, I pressed for ward, and arrived, without any incident occur ring worthy of notice, at tbe town, or rather village, of Marand, and which, formerly of con siderable size and importance, is now a large VOL. I. B straggling heap of ruins, with scarcely four hun dred inhabitants. One sole object worthy of attention consists in a building of a particularly massive character, with a number of domes, each supported by a pilaster of considerable size and thickness ; all information, however, as to what purpose it was originally intended appears to be lost, and, notwithstanding the assertions of the inhabitants to the contrary, I am inclined to think, from its make ancl character, it belongs to a period far prior to the Mussulman subjugation of Armenia.

The valley of Marand, at this period of the year, presents a picture not to be witnessed in any other part of the globe, perhaps, than the north of Persia ; for, while the surrounding hills are covered almost to their base with snow, the entire plain exhibits but one uninterrupted view of rich pasturage and fertile vineyards, resplen dent with tbe early blossoms of spring. The following morning I resumed my route, and reached the banks of the Arras shortly after six in the evening. This river, ever since the last disastrous campaigns of the late Prince Royal, Abbas Meerza, followed by the treaty of Turcoman Chai, in 1828, has formed the boundary-line of the kingdom of Persia and the vast empire of Russia, including in this consequent cession of territory some of the finest provinces that had hitherto acknowledged the supremacy of the Shah.

The day had been marked throughout by heavy falls of rain and snow ; and it may therefore be readily supposed that, having been in the saddle since daybreak, on crossing the river, and reach ing the opposite side, the appearance of a Cossack hut (my destined abode for the next fourteen days), which on most other occasions would have been scanned with a critical minuteness not the most favourable, on the present occasion was hailed with a feeling of pleasure I have seldom experienced even on entering the first hotels on the Continent. I was received with the utmost attention by the Commissary of the Quarantine on my arrival, who himself conducted me to the place I have previously specified as having been prepared for my reception. It was comfortless enough, certainly, to all appearance, and I felt an additional shiver come over me as we approached ; but externals are frequently deceptive, and so it proved in the present instance, for I was most b agreeably surprised on entering to find the inte rior hung with coarse scarlet cloth, the floor swept and clean, a fire blazing cheerfully, while on a table in the centre was placed a basin of hot tea, a small bottle of rum to compound with the same, and a loaf of very fine wheaten bread ; the whole of which comfortable arrangements were, I am inclined to believe, owing to a letter furnished me for the occasion and despatched beforehand by the Imperial Consul-General at Tabreez, M. Kodonitz, of whose kindness on this occasion I shall ever retain the liveliest remem brance.

The following morning the sun shone clear and bright, and, emerging from my solitary cell, I was enabled to take a more accurate survey of the environs of my destined place of imprison ment than my yesterday's cursory glance afforded me. Ye who have ever performed quarantine at Marseilles or Malta (which it has been my lot to do more than once), bestowing anything but blessings on the passing time (a daily occurrence with myself), reflect for a moment upon the many little advantages afforded you by these establishments.

Your friends admitted to converse with you (through the grating), the convenience of a well-arranged restaurant, your evening row or sail in the quarantine guard-boat, and the various views of the shipping, town, and harbour, which till then you may have never perhaps previously beheld ; turn your thoughts, I repeat, upon these and sundry other minor enjoyments (as I most penitentially have done since), and never deem yourself completely miserable till you have performed a similar ceremony on the banks of the Arras (as I, alas ! have also), where — mark the contrast — on every side the eye rests upon a wide sandy plain, enclosed by dark -grey and red-looking rocks, the summits of which at this period are covered with snow; not a blade of grass, or the trace of any verdure whatever, is to be seen, the whole prospect presenting but one continued scene of barrenness and desolation.1 But enough; here I was, and (what was worse) here I was to remain for the space of fourteen 1 The following sketch affords a graphic description of this singularly wild and desolate spot in the summer : — " Ce sont des vallees, et des montagnes, de formes et de cou leurs si etrangement austeres, qu'on aurait peine a imaginer une telle scene, a moins d'etre doue du genie sombre et vigoureux de Salvator Rosa.

Ses teintes verdatres et volcaniques, repan dues sur la campagne, semblent produites par un conflit terrible days, in company with the following : one com missary (who united in his sole person the entire civil and military authority of the establishment), one corporal, and three Cossacks of the Don, and one serjeant and twelve soldiers from a regiment in garrison at Erivan. Of the former it may be said that, if not particularly remarkable for good looks (the smallpox having seamed and scarred his features to an extent so as scarcely to leave even a faint outline of their original formation visible), he was civil, obliging, and attentive, to a degree that could not be surpassed, and that, too, without the least spark of that inordinate craving for remuneration (I should rather say, extortion) of which almost all grades of Russian officials are so justly accused, as the following instance will testify : — Towards the close of my quarantine, I had repeatedly offered him presents of a trifling nature, and which, indeed, I was but too happy to request his acceptance of, were it only as some slight mark of my appreci ation of his civility towards myself ; these, how ever, had been invariably declined ; and it was entre les feux souterrains et la vegetation de la surface."

From the Journal of a Tour from Teflis to Teheran in 1839 published in Paris by the Prince Alexis de Soltikoff. only on the day of my departure, while my ser vants were packing up and getting ready for commencing our journey on the following morn ing, that I observed his attention fixed, with a longing and wistful eye, upon a pair of razors belonging to my dressing-case. As I had several, I hastened to proffer them to his acceptance ; but, though he evidently wished to possess them, to my surprise, the offer was gratefully but firmly declined. I merely mention this little episode from its singularity ; for, though I myself journeyed under circumstances which exempted me from the an noyances to which all travellers, more or less, are subject throughout the Russian Empire, not a single stranger did I encounter, in my subsequent route between St. Petersburg and the Cau casus, who did not indignantly complain of the impositions and exactions they were compelled everywhere, and on all occasions, to submit to.

But to resume. The Cossacks presented nothing particularly extraordinary, while the infantry soldiers exhibited such a striking simi larity of appearance, not merely in their uniforms and appointments, but white bullet-heads, round faces, high cheek-bones, and pug-noses, that it was some time before I could distinguish one from another. Drearily and heavily dragged on the time, the only incidents that marked the entire period being an occasional scraping on the commissary's fiddle (I of course must not term it a violin, as I never ascertained that the musician's know ledge extended beyond three tunes), and the arrival of a caravan to participate in the plea sures of durance vile with myself. But all things must have an end, even a Rus sian quarantine ; and, on the morning of the 30th, my probation being finished, I sprang upon my horse, who, by his plunging and bound ing, seemed to be as well pleased to be liberated as myself, and, having bidden a cordial farewell to my friend the commissary, took the road to Nakhsheerwan, all doubts as to the efficacy of solitary confinement as a punishment, if I ever entertained any, being effectually removed.

En route, I once more came in view, and a magnificent one it was, of Mount Ararat1 — so 1 I first passed it by Byazeed, on the Turkish frontier, in August, 1836, when en route from Constantinople to Persia, in the suite of Sir John M'Neil, G.C.B., her Majesty's Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to the Court of the latter country. grand, so awful, in comparison with which all other objects, however vast and striking, sink into utter insignificance ; while the feelings of religious and historic veneration, with which the passing traveller regards this stupendous work of the Creator, all unite to render it, in his mind, the sublimest object on the surface of the globe. It is termed Agree-Dagh by the inhabitants of the country, and close beside it rises a smaller mountain, corresponding almost in every respect to the larger, and known by the name of the Cuchuk Agree-Dagh, or Lesser Ararat.

Since the period when the ark rested on its summit, no mortal footstep has ever reached it, and, though many daring and adventurous per sons have made the attempt, particularly a distinguished and energetic French traveller,1 who persevered to the last, all have been com pelled to abandon the enterprise. A story is prevalent among the Armenian population of a Turkish Pasha (at what period I could not as certain), who, determining upon accomplishing the ascent, very deliberately provided tents and provisions for himself and his attendants, and 1 Tournefort. B5 commenced operations as if about undertaking a journey of some extent. After the second day's march, down came the whole party, pell-mell, at a much quicker rate than they went up, de claring that they had been waylaid, buffeted, and the Lord knows what, by a whole host of legionary devils, ghosts, hohgoblins, and other spiritual gentry, who apparently seemed to regard the intended visit as a most unauthorized intrusion upon their private sanctuary !

On my arrival at Nakhsheerwan, I proceeded to the residence of the Director-general of the arrondissement, to whom I was furnished with letters of introduction. He was out, but I was accosted on entering by a very gentlemanly and good-looking young man, who, however, speaking neither English, French, Italian, nor Turkish, nor indeed any other language but Russian, I was first at a loss to understand ; as, however, on his intelligent countenance was written, in very legible characters, "I so much wish to please you !" I soon contrived to comprehend his mean ing, which was for me to sit down, and await the arrival of his superior, who would not be long before he made his appearance. I accordingly took a seat, and, for about ten minutes, we enacted a species of burletta in dumb-show, which said performance, partaking in its character of a good deal of the ludicrous, was only terminated by the entrance of the master of the house, who with military frank ness and the utmost cordiality welcomed me to his residence.

It required no great insight into human character at once to perceive my host was the very emblem of courteous hospitality and nobleness of nature. His history was an eventful one ; by birth a Pole, of a high and distinguished family, he had served in the army of Napoleon, in the Lancers of the Guard, during which period he was present in the earlier part of the campaigns in Spain, and subsequently in those of the Austrian, Prussian, and Russian. After the battle of Leipzic, he quitted the army, in which he had attained the rank of Lieutenant colonel, having been wounded and taken pri soner on that eventful day, so disastrous to the Imperial arms. Although engaged in several minor affairs with the British forces, the only one of a general nature he had ever come in contact with them was that of Albuera (two reminiscences of which he still carried in the shape of a sabre-cut and bayonet-stab), his regiment forming one of those who made such desperate havoc among our ranks on that brilliant and sanguinary day — a day, he candidly informed me, well calculated to make a lasting impression upon an enemy relative to the strength, energy, and prowess, as well as dogged resolution, of the British OO 7 soldier in the field.