Preface
. These notes are extracts from letters written when I was travelling last year. I have hardly altered them, thinking they would, if I did so, lose whatever freshness they possess. They contain, of course, merely superficial views of the men, manners, and things that came under my notice ; but as the coun tries they refer to have recently been the scenes of important events, I hope they may not be without some interest. CONTENTS.
Chapter I
Departure from Southampton — First Dinner at Sea — Terns in our Wake — German, French, and other Passengers — A Jamaica Planter's Opinion of Gordon — Indian Coolies — Revival Meetings in Jamaica — Ex-Emperor Soulouque and his Son-in-law — A Haytian's Account of Hayti — The Chiqua — Heavy Seas, but " no Danger " — Gulf-weed — Flying-fish — Underbill's Pamphlet — Quakers on Board — Beautiful Sunset — Distance by Land and Sea — Otan's Pamphlet " On Jamaica" — Barbadoes — Signs of Land — A Lawyer's Opinion on the Jamaica Question — St. Thomas's — The Louisiana — Polyglot Negroes — The Town, Fort, and Harbour — American Men-of-War — Santa Rosa's Residence — An Ice-house — Street Scenes in St. Thomas's — The Market — Visit to M. Rttsi's Collection of Natural Curiosities — Star-fish — Beautiful Spiny Spondylus — Intense Civility of the Blacks — Dark-coloured Pelican — On Board the Tyne — Intercolonial Boats — Port-au- Prince — Porto Rico — Opening of the Jamaica Commission pp. 1—22
Chapter II
Our First Night in Niggerdom — Haytian Functionaries — Native Soldiers — A Black Lady's Salutation — Negro Laziness — Fishing in the Lagoon — Hiring Horses and Mules — Port-au-Prince — Its Streets, Shops, and Houses— Sharks — English Methodist Chapel— Mr. Webbly— Character of the People — Squatting — Prosperity of Barbadoes — Triumphal Arch — Sleepy Negro Guide — A Treasure of a Man — Vaudou Religion — Story of Haytian Cannibalism — French Patois — Grande Riviere of Jacmel — Costume and Customs of the Negroes — Forest Scenery — Birds and Flowers — Returned Exile — The Gros Morne — Bay of Port-au-Prince— General Fauberg Petion — Plans for the Improvement of his Property thwarted — Manufacture of Sugar by Negroes — Conversation with an English Engineer — President Geffrard — Salnave — Siege of the Cape — Interference of the Bulldog — Explosion of a Shell pp. 23 — CONTENTS.
Chapter III
Port-au-Prince— Scenery near the Town— Names of Streets— Inhabitants ofthe To™— The Military— Street Scenes— The Wharfs— The Market-place — Provisions — Pottery — Tirailleurs— Beautiful View — Haytian National Emblem— Motto adopted by the Blacks— Policy of the Government towards Strangers — Population and Trade — Town and Country Schools-^Standing Army and Despotism — Sail among the Coral Islands — Our Boatman — Destructive Effect of an Armstrong Shell — Visit to our Consul — Refuge in Foreign Consulates — Troublesome Proteges — Taffia Fires in Port-au-Prince — Fenced Clearings — Rapid Growth in Hayti — Country Houses — Party at Dinner — Probable Fate of Hayti— English Niggers — Visit to the Presidential Palace — Interview with Geffrard — Relations of White and Black in the Negro Republic — Fishing Sharks — Geffrard's Opinion — Commerce of Hayti pp. 50 — 71
Chapter IV
Jamaica in Sight — Moraut Bay — The Court- House — The Palisades — Pert Royal — On Board the Duncan — Model Community — Public Estimation of Gordon — The Wire " Cats " — Negro Evidence — The Coloured Class — American Buggies — Complaint as to the Administration of Justice — Burned Houses — Bath — A Survivor of the Massacre at Morant Bay — Rencounter with an Indignant Negro — Maroons on Duty — Hire's House — Hire's Defence, and Massacre of Inmates — State of Feeling among the Planters — The Anti-Buckra Movement — Escape of Mr. Sinclair and his Wife — An Obedient Idol — Folly of Negroes and Fears of the Planters — Scenery of Jamaica — Attack on Happy Grove — Dispute about a Mule — Our Footing with the Maroons — Their Manner of Fighting — Massacre and Burning by the Troops — Account of Riots by a Coloured Schoolmaster — Merciless Conduct of Black Troops pp. 72—98
Chapter V
Port Antonio — Negro Method of firing Houses — Prosperous Negroes near Port Antonio — Mr. Orgill's Opinion regarding the Cultivation ot Sugar — Lovely Bays — Mr. Anderson, an old Scotch Gentleman — Complaints as to the Want of Labour — Negro Objection to Contracts — Co-operative System for the Manufacture of Sugar — Immorality and Education — Immigration — A Bastard Law — A Maroon Officer — Their Mode of Fighting— Captain M'Farlane— His Defence of the CONTENTS. IX Maroons — Dinner with the Maroons — A Sentiment received with Great Applause — Measures proposed for the Inauguration of a Better Order of Things — Reform of Elective Bodies — Of Vestries — Of the Present Magistracy — Appointment of Stipendiary Magistrates — Government System of Industrial Schools — An Education Tax — Fine Scenery — The Rio Grande — Forest-Trees — The Cotton-Tree — Under growth and Creepers in the Woods — Birds seen in Jamaica — Immense Butterfly — Botanic Garden at Bath — Court-House at Morant Bay — ■ The Volunteers — The Massacre — Gordon's Grave — The Charge against him — Mr. Eyre — Martial Law — The late Governor's Policy — Site of Mr. Eyre's House, and View from it — Important Document — Evi dence as to the Proceedings and Designs of the People — Illegal Drilling — Curious Document pp. 99 — 124
Chapter VI
Flamstead — Cowardly Acts of Intimidation — Visit to Hill, the Naturalist — Sharks — The Political Prospects of Jamaica — Probable Disappointment of the Furious Supporters of the Ex-Governor — Substitution of English for Spanish Names of Places — The Road to Moreland — Mangrove Belts — Cultivation of Sugar Estates — The Cotton-Tree — From Moreland to St. Jago — Guinea Fowl — Ants — Want of Doctors — Humming-birds — Mandeville — Black Freeholders — A Negro's Necessaries and Burdens in Jamaica — A Negro Dodge — Attorneys for Estates — Laziness and Caprice of the Negroes — Stoppage of Wages — The Question between Overseers aud Negroes — Domestic Servants — Price of Food — Position of the Black Freeholder — Precedence of Races — Abolition of the House of Assembly — Extravagant Application of Public Money — Neglect of Popular Education — Ignorance with respect to Contracts — Negro Interpretation of a Public Proclamation — Visit to a Large School — Congo Boys — Drunkenness among the Negroes — Jamaica as a Place for Emigrants— A Negro's Opinion of the Rioters pp. 125—151
Chapter VII
Cuba — A Midshipman — Santiago de Cuba — Country in the Neighbourhood Spanish Volante Carriage— Reckless Negro Postilion— Our Hotel —Strict Regulations— Adventure of a German in Hayti— The Theatre The Church — The Service and the Preacher — Music in the Public Square— A Paradise for Smokers — A Volante Drive into the Country Bound Blacks and Slaves — Conversation with an American Engineer The " Fah Kee " — Feelings in the Torrid and Temperate Zones X CONTENTS. —Swell in the Caribbean Sea— Our Captain— His Opinion regarding the Trent Business— Slavery in the South— Story of a Negro volun tarily returning to Bondage— Approach to New York — A Fog at Sea — Port Lafayette— The Narrows— Brooklyn— View of New York — Steam Ferry-boat— General Aspect of the City—Broadway—Tram ways — Barnum's Museum pp. 152 — 174
Chapter VIII
Activity of the People — Question of the Fishery— The Civil Rights Bill — The Fenians — Reports circulated by the TNew York Herald — Fenianism among Waiters — Devotion of the Lower Irish to the Cause — The Roberts and O'Mahoney Sections — Civil Rights and Freedmen's Bureau Bill — Policy of the President — Trial of Davis — Visit to the Dunderberg — Construction of the Vessel — American Workmanship — Iron-clads sent round to the Pacific — Proposal of a Patriotic Member of Congress — Wounded Soldiers — Germans in New York — Excitement caused by the Arrival of a Pest-ship — American Railway Travelling — Appearance of the Passengers — Railway Literature — Raymond and the Herald — Extent of New York — The Rocks near the City — Small Towns and Wooden Houses — Boston — Made a Member of the Union Club — The Somerset — Longfellow's Bridge over the River Charles — Cambridge University — Our Cordial Reception by American Students — Boat Races on the River — The Powellian Club — Agassiz — Debate at the State House — View from the Balcony — The Massachusetts Regiment — Longfellow — A Lecture by Emerson . . pp. 175 — 19G
Chapter IX
A Ride to Winchester — Moveable Family Mansion — American Robin — Snapping Turtle— Amusement at the Fremont— A Fenian Waiter — The States and their Soldiers — State of the South — Visit to Lowell- Absorption of the Military— Peaceful Tendency of the Nation — Americanisms— A Yankee Steamer— Agreeable Recollections of Boston —Political Spirit and Sentiment — Return to New York— The Theatre —Negro Minstrels— Country beyond New York and Washington — Crossing Wide Rivers with the Train— Earthworks— View of the Capitol— The Streets of Washington— Public Buildings— Conversation with a Virginian Gentleman— Effect of the passing of the Civil Rights Bill— Hopes for the Future of America-^Mr. Sumner— Military Commissions and the Trial of Davis— Mr. St. Leger Grenfell— Reconstruction ofthe Union— Policy of the Radicals— An American Gentleman's Opinion of Affairs in Mexico .... pp. 197 CONTENTS. XI
Chapter X
White Labour in the South — Dying out of the Negroes — Would the South have armed the Slaves ? — Confederate Forces at the End of the War — Davis's Flight from Richmond — The Capitol — Admission of Colorado into the Union — Committee of Reconstruction — Conduct of Business in the Senate — House of Representatives — Energy of the Speakers — Feeling in Congress against the President — Federal and State Authority — Southern Representatives — The Treasury — Ride into Virginia — National Monument — The Long Bridge — Vestiges of the War — General Lee's House — Interview with the President — The White House — Mortality among the Blacks in the South — Navy Yard — Monitors — French Occupation of Mexico— Visit to Mr. Seward — The Attack made on him last Year — Attack on Frederick Seward pp. 222—243
Chapter XI
Conversation with a Supporter of the President — A Freedmen's Village — White Labour in the South — Education of the People — Negro Enfranchisement — Feeling against the President — Politicians in Social Life — The Proposed Paris Exhibition — Indian Troubles — Grant's Respect for Lee — State Rights and the Union — General Grant on some of the Operations of the War — Sherman and Hood — Education of the Negroes — Cultivation of Land by the Blacks — Negro Village at Arlington — Good done by the Freedmen's Bureau — Intelligence of the Negroes — Gradual Disappearance of the Antipathy between White and Black — Military Courts — Report of the Reconstruction Committee — Journey to Richmond — Banks of the Potomac — Acquia Creek — Fredericksburg — Richmond — State of Feeling among the Inhabitants — State Sovereignty — White and Coloured — Communicativeness of the Negroes — Devotion to Kind Masters manifested by them . . . pp. 244 — 267
Chapter XII
Situation of Richmond — The Capitol — Governor Pierpont — The Burnt District — The Tredegar Ironworks — The Two Prisons — Treatment of Prisoners of War — Sufferings of the Southern States — Loafing Negroes — Blacks in Mixed Uniform — Defences of Richmond — M'Clellan's Advance against Richmond — The Chickahominy — Agricultural Operations — Soldiers' Graves — Federal Cemetery — Antipathy ofthe South to the North — Galling Treatment of Federal Officers by Southern Ladies — View of Richmond from the James River — Butler's Lines — His Attempt to cut through the Dutch Gap — Farms on the James — City Point — Idle Negroes — Rail to Petersburg — Position of that Town- Murderous Contests in its Neighbourhood — Nothing to do with Yankees — Virginian Bitterness — The Natural Position of the African — Parallel between English and American Parties. . pp. 268 — CONTENTS.
Chapter XIII
Virginian Country Life — Birds of Virginia — Our Host — Conduct of his Sons in the War — Sufferings from the Presence of invading Armies — A Negro Traitor — One Generous Action of Butler's — Union as understood in the South — Objectionable Provision ofthe Civil Rights Bill — Farming Quarters, Clothing, and Nourishment of the Slaves — Admiration of England — Federal and Confederate Government — Names and Manners of the Darkies — Reverence for Age in the South — New York Gamins — A Go-ahead Youngster at the Theatre — A Freedman at Bermuda Hundred — Germans in Richmond — German Troops in the Federal Army — A Scotch Farmer — Charlotteville — Anniversary of " Stonewall " Jackson's Death — University of Virginia — A Virginian Secessionist and " Rebel " — Caution to the Radicals — A Better Time coming for South and West — Commemoration of General Jackson and the Conservative Dead — University Professors and Students in the Southern Army — Mr. Black's Schemes — Yankee Troops in the University — A Freedmen's School — Passengers in the Cars to Lynchburg — Campbell Court-House — Host and Hostess at the Inn — Talk with Niggers — Lynchburg to Staunton by Canal — Recruits for England in the South — Desertions from the Confederate Army — Administration of Justice by the Agent ofthe Bureau pp. 288 — 318
Chapter XIV
Lexington — Cadets of the Military College — Virginian Scenery — Natural Bridge — White and Coloured Men on Farms — Negroes eager to visit England — Education — Confederate Officers — Parties in the South and North — Injurious Effect of the Course pursued by the Radicals — Language of Thaddeus Stephens in the House of Representatives — Weakness of State Governments — Discomfort suffered by Ladies Travelling in America — Mode of serving up Dinner — A German Innkeeper — Remarkable Cave — Curious Bill — The Affairs of Virginia Working of the Freedmen's Bureau— False Prognostications of the Southerners — Mixed Labour — Derision of Northern Fears— Baltimore — Enthusiasm excited by Confederate War Songs — Coloured Men in the Railway Cars— Action of the Civil Rights Bill — Decisions ofthe Judges respecting the State Courts— Niagara in a Mist — Night View of the Falls — Toronto— Sensible Irishmen — Kingston — Ottawa Canadian Houses of Parliament — The Ottawa— Inconvenient Position of the new Canadian Capital — The Sawmills — The Fenian Invasion Reports at Kingston— Skirmish at Fort Erie— Conduct of the American Government — American Sympathy with Fenianism. pp. 319—355 A TRIP TO THE TROPICS: NOTES PROM NEGRO LANDS.
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