The Valleys of Tirol. Their traditions and customs, and how to visit them ... With frontispiece and three maps

Front matter

h 1 A A Conserved under the A | Adopt a Book Appeal I I Pkteir Scdnei c/er %*i$ I ■ THE VALLEYS OF TIEOL S : PRINTED DY SPOTTI3W0ODB AND 00., NEW-9TTIEST SQCAIiE xsv rARLi^uzicNr btueet 1. .'.4 KUFSTEIN. THE VALLEYS OF TIEOL THEIR TRADITIONS AND CUSTOMS AND HOW TO VISIT THEM A BY MISS E. H. BUSK AUTHOR OF ' PATRANAS ' ' SAGAS FROM THE FAR EAST ' ( FOLU-LORE OF ROME ' £TC WITH FRONTISPIECE AND THREE MAPS LONDON LONGMANS, G E E E N, AND CO. 1874 Alt rights reserved PEE FACE. There are none who know Tirol but are forward to express regret that so picturesque and so primitive a country should be as yet, comparatively with other tracks of travel, so little opened up to the dilettante explorer. It is quite true, on the other hand, that just in pro portion as a country becomes better known, it loses, little by little, its merit of being primitive and even picturesque.

Intercourse with the world beyond the mountains naturally sweeps away the idiosyncracies of the mountaineers ; and though the trail of progress which the civilized tourist leaves behind him cannot absolutely obliterate the actual configuration of the country, yet its original characteristics must inevitably be modified by the changes which his visits almost insensibly occasion. The new traditions which he brings with him of vast manufacturing enterprise and rapid commercial success cannot but replace in the minds of the people the old traditions of the fire-side and the Filb, with VI

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. their dreams of treasure-granting dwarfs and the Berg segen dependent on prayer. The uniform erections of a monster Hotel Company, ' convenient to the Eailway Station,' supersede the frescoed or timbered hostelry perched on high to receive the wayfarer at his weariest. The giant mill-chimneys, which sooner or later spring up from seed unwittingly scattered by the way-side, not only in ar the landscape with their intrinsic deformity, but actually strip the mountains of their natural covering, and convert wooded slopes into grey and barren wastes ; ! just as the shriek of the whistle over powers the Jodel-call, and the barrel-organ supersedes the zitther and the guitar. Such considerations naturally make one shrink from the responsibility of taking a part (how insigni ficant soever) in directing the migration of tourists into such a country as Tirol.

I have heard a Tirolese, while at the same time mourning that the attractions of his country were so often passed over, express this feeling very strongly, and allege it as a reason why he did not give the result of his local observations to the press ; and I listened to his apprehensions with sympa- 1 This is what the introduction of manufactories is doing in Italy at this moment. The director of a large establishment in Tuscany, which devours, to its own share, the growth of a whole hill-side every year, smiled at my simplicity when I expressed regret at hearing that no provision was made for replacing the timber as it is consumed.

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. VII thy. But then these changes must be. The attempt to delay them is idle ; nor would individual abstention from participating in the necessary movement of events have any sensible effect in stemming the even course of inevitable development. Circumstances oblige us con tinually to co-operate in bringing about results which we might personally deprecate. ' In whatsoe'er we perpetrate We do but row ; we're steered by fate.' And after all, why should we deprecate the result ? We all admire the simple mind and chubby face of childhood ; yet who (except the sentimental father in the French ballad, ' Eeste toujours petit ! ' ) would wish to see his son in petticoats and leading-strings all his days. The morning mists which lend their precious charm of mystery to the sunrise landscape must be dispelled as day advances, or day would be of little use to man.

The day cannot be all morning ; man's life cannot be all infancy; and we have no right so much as to wish — even though wishes avail nothing — that the minds of others should be involved in absurd illusions to which we should scorn to be thought a prey our selves. Nature has richly endowed Tirol with beauty and healthfulness ; and they must be dull indeed who,

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. coming in search of these qualities, do not find them enhanced an hundredfold by the clothing of poetry with which the people have superindued them. Who, in penetrating its mountain solitudes, would not thank the guide who peoples them for him with mysterious beings of transcendent power ; who interprets for him, in the nondescript echoes of evening, the utterances of a world unknown ; and in the voices of the storm and of the breeze the expression of an avenging power or the whisperings of an almighty tenderness. But then — if this is found to be something more than poetry, if the allegory which delights our fancy turns out to be a grotesque blunder in the system of the peasant who narrates it, — it cannot be fair to wish that he should continue subject to fallacious fancies, in order that we may be entertained by their recital.

It is one thing for a man who has settled the grounds of his belief (or his unbelief) to his best satisfaction in any rational way, to say, ' I take this beautiful alle gory into my repertory ; it elevates my moral percep tions and illustrates my higher reaches of thought ; ' but it is quite another thing if one reasons thus with himself, 'My belief is so and so, because a certain supernatural visitation proves it;' when actually the said supernatural visitation never took place at all, and was nothing but an allegory, or still less, a mere freak of fancy in its beginning.

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. IX Perhaps if the vote could be taken, and if desires availed anything, the general consensus of thinking people would go in favour of the desire that there had been no myths, no legends. But the vote would involve the consequence that we should have antece dently to be possessed of a complete innate knowledge of the forces of being, corresponding to the correct criteria, which we flatter ourselves do indwell us of the principles of beauty and of harmony. If there are any who are sanguine enough to believe that science will one of these days give us a certain knowledge of how everything came about, it is beyond dispute that for long ages past mankind has been profoundly puzzled about the question, and it cannot be an uninteresting study to trace its gropings round and round it. Perfect precision of ideas again would involve per fect exactness of expression.

No one can fail to regret the inadequacies and vagaries of language which so often disguise instead of expressing thought, and lead to the most terrible disputes just where men seek to be most definite. If we could dedicate one articulate expression to every possible idea, we should no longer be continually called to litigate on the mean ings of creeds and documents, and even verbal state ments. But when we had attained all this, we should have surrendered all the occupation of conjecture and all

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. X the charms of mystery ; we should have parted with all poetry and all jeux d' esprit. If knowledge was so posi tive and language so precise that misunderstanding had no existence, then neither could we indulge in metaphor nor egayer la matiere with any play on words. In fact, there would be nothing left to say at all ! Perhaps the price could not be too high; but in the meantime we have to deal with circumstances as they are. We cannot suppress mythology, or make it non-existent by ignoring it. It exists, and we may as well see what we can make of it, either as a study or a recreation. Conjectures and fancies surround us like thistles and roses ; and as brains won't stand the wear of being ceaselessly carded with the thistles of con jecture, we may take refuge in the alternative of amusing ourselves on a holiday tour with plucking the roses which old world fancy has planted — and planted no where more prolifically than in Tirol.

In speaking of Tirol as comparatively Httle opened up, I have not overlooked the publications of pioneers who have gone before. The pages of Inglis, though both interesting and appreciative, are unhappily almost forgotten, and they only treat quite incidentally of the people's traditions. But as it is the most salient points of any matter which must always arrest attention first, it has been chiefly the mountains of Tirol to

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. XI which attention has hitherto been drawn. Besides the universally useful ' Murray ' and others, very efficient guidance to them has of late years been afforded in the pages of ' Ball's Central Alps,' in some of the con tributions to ' Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers ; ' in the various works of Messrs. Gilbert and Churchill ; and now Miss A. B. Edwards has shown what even ladies may do among its Untrodden Peaks. The aspects of its scenery and character, for which it is my object on the other hand to claim attention, lie hidden among its Valleys, Trodden and Untrodden. And down in its Valleys it is that its traditions dwell.1 If the names of the Valleys of Tirol do not at present awaken in our mind stirring memories such as cling to other European routes whither our steps are invited, ours is the fault, in that we have overlooked their history.

The past has scattered liberally among them characteristic landmarks dating from every age, and far beyond the reach of dates. Every stage even of the geological formation of the country — which may almost boast of being in its courage and its probity, as it does boast of being in the shape in which it is fashioned, the heart of Europe — is sung of in popular Sage as the result of some poectically conceived 1 Except the Legends of the Marmolata, which I have given in ' Household Stories from the Land of Hofer ; or, Popular Myths of Tirol,' I hardly remember to have met any concerning its prominent heights.

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. agency ; humdrum physical forces transformed by the wand of imagination into personal beings ; now bountiful, now retributive ; now loving ; now terrible ; but nearly always rational and just. To the use of those who care to find such gleams of poetry thrown athwart Nature's work the following pages are dedicated. The traditions they record do not claim to have been all gathered at first hand from the stocks on which they were grown or grafted. A life, or several lives, would hardly have sufficed for the work. In Germany, unlike Italy, myths have called into being a whole race of collectors, and Tirol has an abundant share of them among her offspring. Not only have able and diligent sons devoted themselves professionally to the preservation of her traditions, but every valley nurtures appreciative minds to whom it is a delight to store them in silence, and who willingly discuss such lore with the traveller who has a taste for it.

That a foreigner should attempt to add another to these very full, if not exhaustive collections, would seem an impertinent labour of supererogation. My work, therefore, has been to collate and arrange those tra ditions which have been given me, or which I have found ready heaped up ; to select from the exuberant mass those which, for one reason or another, appeared to possess the most considerable interest ; and to localise

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. XIII them in such a way as to facilitate their study both by myself and others along the wayside ; not neglecting, however, any opportunity that has come in my way of conversing about them with the people themselves, and so meeting them again, living, as it were, in their respective homes. This task, as far as I know, has not been performed by any native writer.1 The names of the collectors I have followed are, to all who know the country, the best possible guarantee of the authenticity of what they advance ; and I subjoin here a list of the chief works I have either studied my self or referred to, through the medium of kind helpers in Tirol, so as not to weary the reader as well as my self with references in every chapter : — Von Alpenburg : Mythen und Sagen Tirols. Brandis : Ehrenkranzel Tirols.

H. J. von Collin : Kaiser Max aus der Martinswand : ein Gedicht. Das Drama des Mittelalters in Tirol. A. Pickler. Hormayr: Taschenbuch fiir die Vaterlandische Geschichte. Meyer : Sagenkranzlein aus Tirol. Nork : Die Mythologie der Volkssagen und Volksmarchen. Die Oswaldlegende und ihre Beziehung aus Deutscher Mythologie. Oswald v. Wolkenstein : Gedichte. Reprint, with introduction by Weber. Perini : I Castelli del Tirolo. Der Pilger durch Tirol ; geschichtliche und topographische Beschreibung der Wallfahrtsorte u. Gnadenbilder in Tirol u. Vorarlberg. 1 I published much of the matter of the following pages in the first instance in the Monthly Packet, and I have to thank the Editor for my present use of them.

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. A. Pickler : Friihlieder aus Tirol. Scherer : Geographie und Geschichte von Tirol. Simrock : Legenden. Schneller : Mahrchen und Sagen aus Walsch-Tirol. Staffer : Das Deutsche Tirol und Vorarlberg. Die Sage von Kaiser Max aus der Martinswand. J. Thaler : Geschichte Tirols von der Urzeit. Der Untersberg bei Salzburg, dessen geheimnissvolle Sagen der Vorzeit, nebst Beschreibung dieses Wunderberges. Vonbun : Sagen Vorarlbergs. Weber : Das Land Tirol. Drei Bander. Zingerle : Konig Laurin, oder der Rosengarten in Tirol- Die Sagen von Margaretha der Maultasche. Sagen, Marchen u. Gebrauche aus Tirol. Der beruhmte Landwirth Andreas Hofer, I hope my little maps will convey a sufficient notion of the divisions of Tirol, the position of its valleys and of the routes through them tracked in the following pages.

I have been desirous to crowd them as little as possible, and to indicate as far as may be, by the size and direction of the words, the direction and the relative importance of the valleys. Of its four divisions the present volume is concerned with the first (Vorarlberg), the fourth (Walsch-Tirol), and with the greater part of the valleys of the second (Nord or Deutsch-Tirol.) In the remoter recesses of them all some strange and peculiar dialects linger, which perhaps hold a mine in store for the philologist. Yet, though the belief was expressed more than thirty years ago ' that they might serve as a key to the 1 See Steub 'Uber die Urbewohner Ratiens und ihren Zusammen hang mit den Etruskcrn. Munich. 1843,' quoted in Dennis' Cities and Cemeteries of Etruria, i. Preface, p.

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. XV Etruscan language, I believe no one has since been at the pains to pursue this most interesting research. In the hope of inducing some one to enter this field of enquiry, I will subjoin a list of some few expressions which do not carry on their face a striking resemblance to either of the main languages of the country, leaving to the better-informed to make out whence they come. The two main languages (and these will suffice the ordinary traveller for all practical purposes), are German in Vorarlberg and North Tirol, Italian in Walsch-Tirol, mixed with occasional patches of Ger man ; and in South-Tirol with a considerable prepon derance of these patches. A tendency to bring about the absorption of the Italian-speaking valleys into Italy has been much stimulated in modern times, and in the various troubled epochs of the last five-and twenty years Garibaldian attacks have been made upon the frontier line.

The population was found stedfast in its loyalty to Austria, however, and all these attempts were repulsed by the native sharp-shooters, with little assistance from the regular troops. An active club and newspaper propagandism is still going on, promoted by those who would obliterate Austria from the map of Europe. For them, there exists only Ger man-Tirol and the Trentino. And the Trentino is now frequently spoken of as a province bordering on, instead of as in reality, a division of, Tirol.

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. Although German is generally spoken through out Vorarlberg, there is a mixture of Italian expressions in the language of the people, which does not occur at all in North-Tirol : as fazanedle, for a handkerchief (Itid.fazzoletto.) gaude, gladness (Ital. gaudio.) guttera, a bottle (Ital. gutto a cruet.) gespusa, a bride (Ital. sposa). gouter, a counterpane (Ital. coltre). schapel, the hat (peculiar to local costume), (Ital. cappello, a hat). The k in many German words is here written with ch ; and no doubt such names as the Walgau, Walserthal, &c, commemorate periods of Venetian rule. Now for some of the more ' outlandish ' words : — baschga' (the final n, en, rn, &c. of the German form of the infinitive is usually clipped by the Yorarlbergcrs, even in German words, just as the Italians constantly clip the final letters of their infinitive, as anda' and andar' for andare, to walk, &c.) to overcome. batta', to serve. putze' or buetza, to sew or to piece. h'dss, clothing. res, speech. tobel, a ravine. fetl, a girl ; spudel, an active girl ; schmel, a smiling girl. hattel, a goat ; miitl, a kid.

Atti,' father, and datti, 'daddy.' frei, pleasant. zoana, a wattled basket. schlutta and schoope, a smock-frock. tdibe, anger. 1 See it in use below, p. 28, and comp. Etruscan Res. p. 302, note.

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. XVII kiba', to strive. rera' to weep.' miisper, merry. iribiliera', to constrain. waedle, swift. raetig werden, to deliberate. Tripstrull, = Utopia. wcch, spruce, also vain. laegla, a little vessel. hengest, a friendly gathering of men.2 koga, cursed, also corrupted. fegga, a wing. krom, a gift. blaetz, a patch. grind, a brute's head, a jolterhead. bratza, a paw, an ugly hand. briegga', to pucker up the face ready for crying. deihja, a shepherd's or cattle-herd's hut.s also dieja, which is generally reserved for a hut formed by taking advantage of a natural hole, leaving only a roof to be supplied. garreg, prominent. (I think that gareggiante in Italian is sometimes used in a similar sense.) Other words in Vorarlberg dialect are very like English, as : — Witsch, a witch. Pfulle, a pillow. 1 Somewhat like pleurer.

A good many words are like French, as gutschle, a settle (couche) ; schesa, a gig ; and gespusa, mentioned above, is like epouse ; and au, for water, is common over N. Tirol, as well as Vorarlberg, e.g. infra, pp. 24, 111. &c. 1 Comp. Etrus. Ree. 339-41. * Several places have received their name from having grown round such a hut ; some of these occur outside Vorarlberg, as for instance Kiihthei near St. Sigismund (infra, p. 331) in the Lisenthal, and Niederthei in the Œtzthal. a

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. rot, wrath. gompd , to jump. gulla, a gulley. also datti and schmel, mentioned already. Aftermotig (after-Monday) is a local name for Tuesday. In Walsch-Tirol, they have carega, a chair. bagherle, a little carriage, a car. troz, a mountain path. Malga? equivalent to Alp, a mountain pasture. zufolo," a pipe. And Turlulu (infra, p. 432) is nearly identical in form and sound withawordexpoundedin Etrus. Researches, p. 299. Of ' Salvan ' and ' Gannes,' I have already spoken.5 But all this is, I am aware, but a mere turning over of the surface ; my only wish is that some one of stronger capacity will dig deeper. Of many dialects, too, I have had no opportunity of knowing anything at all. Here are, however, a few suggestive or strange words from North and South Tirol : — Pill, which occurs in various localities 4 of both those provinces to designate a place built on a little hill or knoll, is identical with an Etruscan word to which Mr. Isaac Taylor gives a similar significance.5 I do not overlook Weber's observation that ' Pill is obviously a corruption of Biichel (the German for a a knoll), through Buhel and BUM ;' but, which pro- 1 Comp, ma = earth, land, Etrus. Res. pp. 121, 285. - Comp, subulo, Etrus. Res. 324. Dennis i. 339. 1 Infra, p. 411. ' See e.g., infra, p. 202. 5 Etrus. Res. p. 330.

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. XIX ceeds from which is often a knotty point in questions of derivation, and Weber did not know of the Etruscan 'pil.' Ziller and celer I have already alluded to,1 though of course it may be said that the Tirolean river had its name from an already romanised Etruscan word, and does not necessarily involve direct contact with the Etruscan vocabulary. Grau-wutzl is a name in the Zillerthal for the Devil. Disel, for disease of any kind. Gigl, a sheep. Kiess, a heifer. Triel, a lip. Bueg, a leg. knospen stands in South-Tirol for wooden shoes, and fokazie for cakes used at Eastertide. (Focaccia is used for ' cake ' in many parts of Italy, and ' dar pan per focaccia ' is equivalent to ' tit for tat' all over the Peninsula.) It remains only to excuse myself for the spelling of the word Tirol. I have no wish to incur the charge of ' pedantry ' which has heretofore been laid on me for so writing it.

It seems to me that, in the absence of any glaring mis-derivation, it is most natural to adopt a country's own nomenclature ; and in Tirol, or by Tirolean writers, I have never seen the name spelt with ay. I have not been able to get nearer its derivation than that the Castle above Meran, which gave it to the whole principality, was called by the Eomans, when 1 P. 79 a2 XX

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. they rebuilt it, Teriolis. Why they called it so, or what it was called before, I have not been able to learn. The English use of the definite article in naming Tirol is more difficult to account for than the adoption of the y, in which we seem to have been misled by the Germans. We do not say ' the France ' or ' the Italy ; ' even to accommodate ourselves to the genius of the languages of those countries, therefore, that we should have gone out of our way to say ' the Tyrol ' when the genius of that country's language does not require us so to call it, can have arisen only from a piece of carelessness which there is no need to repeat. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. VORARLBERG.

Introductory remarks on the use of myths, legends, and traditions ; their imagery beyond imitation ; have become a study ; now a science ; Prof. M. Muller ; Rev. G. W. Cox — Karl Blind on attractions for the English in Germanic mythology; mythological persons of Tirol — Mythological symbols in art ; in poetry ; Dante on popular traditions ; their record of thoughts and customs ; Tullio Dandolo ; Depping ; Tirolean peasants . . . page 1 Our introduction to Tirol— Excursions round Eeldkirch ; the Katzenthurm ; St. Fidelis ; St. Eusebius — Eankweil — Fridolins-kapelle — Valduna — S. Gerold — Eoute into Tirol by Lindau — Bregenz, birthplace of Flatz — Legend of Charlemagne ; of Ulrich and Wendelgard — Ehreguota — Eiedenberg school — the natural preserves of Lustenau — Merboth, Diedo, and Ilga — Embs ; its chronicles ; Swiss embroidery ; Sulphur baths ; Jews' synagogue — Lichtenstein ; Vaduz ; Hot sulphur-baths of Pfaffers ; Taminaschlund ; Luziensteig 12 From Feldkirch to Innsbruck — The Pass of Frastanz ; Shepherd lad's heroism; the traitor's fate — S. Joder and the Devil — Bludenz — Montafon ; who gave it its arms — Prazalanz — The Tear-rill .' Kirschwasser — Dalaas — Silberthal — DasBruederhiisle — Engineering of the Arlberg pass — Stanzerthal — Hospice of St. Christof — Wiesburg — Ischgl ; its ' skullery ' — Landeck — Legend of Schrofenstein — Sharpshooter's monument — Aus dem Fern — Nassereit — Tschirgants Branch road to Fiissen — Plansee — Lechthal — Imst — Pitzthal — Growth of a modern legend — Heiterwang — Ehrenberger Klauze Archenthal — Vierzehn Nothhalfer CONTENTS.

XXII A border adventure ; our party ; our plans ; our route— Aarau— Rorschach ; its skeleton-Caryatidæ— Oberriet— Our luggage overpowers the station-master— Our wild colt— Our disaster— Our walk— Our embroideress guide— The Rhine ferry— The Rhætian Alps— Altenstadt— Schattenburg— British missionaries to Tirol— Feldkirch, festa, costumes — Our luggage again— Our new route — Our postilion—The Stase-eaddle— The Devil's House— The Voralbergerghost page 39

Chapter II. North Tirol Unterinnthal

(RIGHT INN-BANK). KUFSTEIN TO EOTTENBVJKG . Kufstein — Pienzenau's unlucky joke — Ainliffen — Rocsla Sandor; the Hungarian lovers — National anthem — Thierberg — A modern pilgrim — Der Biisser — Public memorials of religion — Zell — Ottokapelle — Kundl — S. Leonhard aus der Wiese ; its sculptures— Henry II. 's vow — The Auflanger-Briindl — Rattenberg — Rottenburg — St. Nothburga; her integrity, charity, persecution, patience, piety, observance of Sunday ; judgment overtakes Ottilia : Nothburga's restoration ; legend of her burial — Henry VI. of Rottenburg and Friedrich mit der leeren Tasche — Character of each — Henry's literary tastes ; his mysterious fate — The fire spares Nothburga's cell — Mining legend 53 CHAPTEE III. NORTH TIROL UNTERINNTHAL (RIGHT INN-BANK). THE ZLLLEETHAL. The Zillerthal — Conveyances — Etruscan remnant — Thurnegg and Tratzberg across the river — Strass — Corn or coin ? — The two churches of Schlitters — Castles of the Zillerthal — The peace of Kropfsberg — ' The only Fiigen ' — The patriot Riedl — Zell — Expulsion of Lutherans — Hippach — Hainzenberg; ultra co-operative" gold mines — Mayrhof — Garnet mills — Maria-Rastkapelle — Hulda — Tributary valleys — Duxerthal — Hinter-Dux — Hardiness of the people— Legends of the frozen wall — Dog's-throat valley The Devil's path The Zemmer glacier — Schwarzensteingrund . . CONTENTS. XXIII

Chapter IV. North Tirol

— UNTERINNTHAL — (ltIGHT INN-BANK). Z1LLEETHAL CUSTOMS — THE WILDSCHONAU. Zillerthal customs — Games — Spirits play with gold skittles — Pedlar of Starkenberg — Dances : Schnodahiipfl : Hosennagler — Cow-fights — Kirchtag — Primizen and Sekundizen — Carneval — Christnacht — Kloubabrod — Sternsingen — Gomacht — Weddings — Zutrinken — Customs of other valleys — The cat, patron of courtship . page 92 Kundl again — Wiltschenau — Niederaich — Kundlburg — Oberau — Niederrau — Thierberg — Silver-mines — Legends of dwarfs and Knappen — Moidl and the gold-cave — Legend of tho Landmark — Der Umgehende Schuster — Perchtl, Pilate's wife — Comparative inythologists — Wodin, Wilder Jager Wilhem Tell — Symbolism in tales of enchanted Princesses — Perahta, the daughter of Dagha — Brixlegg — Burgleckner — Claudia de' Medici — Biener's dying challenge — The Bienerweible — Sandbichler, the Bible-commentator . . . .110

Chapter V. North Tirol

— UNTERINNTHAL. LEFT LNK-BANK. Jenbach — Wiesing — Thiergarten — Kramsach — Brandenberger Ache* — Voldepp — The Mooserthal — The Mariathal — Rheinthalersee — Achenrain — Mariathal, village and ruined Dominican convent — Georg von Freundsberg — The Brandenbergerthal — Steinberg — Heimathtbal, Freiheitthal — The gold-herds of the Reiche Spitze — Die Kalte Pein — Mariastein — The irremovable image — Jenbach — Wiesing— The Thiergarten— The Achenthal— The Kasbachthal— The Blue Achensee — Skolastiea — Pertisau — Buchau, Nature's imitation fortress — Tegernsee — The Achen-pass— The judgment of Achensee — Playing at ball in St. Paul's cathedral — Legend of Wildenfeld— Eben — The escape of the vampire — Stans — Joseph Arnold — Tirolean artists — The Stallenthal — St. Georgenberg — Unsere liebe Frau zur Linde — Vieeht, Benedictine monastery, library, sculpture — Vomperthal — Sigmundslust — Sigismund the Monied — Terfens — Maria-larch — Volandseck — Thierberg — S. Michael's — S. Martin's— The Gnadenwald — Baumkirchen — Fritzens — External tokens of faith-- CONTENTS.

The holy family at home— Frost phantoms— Hall ; Miinzthurm ; Sandwirthszwanziger ; salt-works ; Speckbacher ; Waldaufischer-Ka pelle; S. Saviour's ; institutions of Hall— Johanniswiirmchen ; Bauern krieg—Excursions round Hall ; the Salzberg; the explorations osthe ' Fromme Ritter ; ' grandeur of the salt-mines ; salt-works ; visit of Hofer and Speckbacher ; the Salzthal— Absam ; the dragons of Schloss Melans ; Count Spaur's ride to Babylon ; combat with the toad — Max Muller on legends — The image on the window-pane ; the Gnaden mutter von Absam; Stainer the violin-maker — Mils — Griinegg — Schneeberg— The Gnadenwald— The Glockenhof ; the Glockengiesser; his temptation, condemnation, and dying request — The Loreto kirche — Heiligenkreuz — Taur — Thiirl — The Kaisersaule— St. Eo medius, St. Vigilius and the bear ; the spectre priest — Rum, landslip page 125 CHAPTEE VL NORTH TIROL UNTERINNTHAL — (RIGHT INN-BANE).

SCHWATZ. Schwatz, its situation ; efflgy of S. John Nepomuk ; his example ; the village frescoes; a hunt for a breakfast; the lessons of traveller's fare ; market ; church ; its size disproportioned to the population; the reason of this — Schwatz a Eoman station ; silver-mines ; prosperity ; importance ; influence of miners of Saxony ; reformation ; riots ; polemical disputes ; decline ; copper and iron works ; other industries ; misfortunes. History of the parish church ; peculiar construction ; the Knappenhochaltar ; monuments ; Hans Dreyling ; altar-pieces ; Michaels-kapelle ; its legend ; churchyard ; its reliquary and holy oil; the Eobler and the gossip's corpse ; penance and vision of the unmarried — Franciscan church — characteristics of the inns ; singular use of the beds ; guitar playing — Blessed Sacrament visits the sick — Freundsberg ; the ruined castles of Tirol ; Georg von Freundsberg; his prowess, strength, success ; devotion of his men ; sung of as a hero ; his part in the siege of Eome, sudden death, and ruin of his house; tower; chapel — Weird-woman; her siory; her legends ; Oswald Milser of Seefeld ; the bird-catcher of the Goaslahn ; strange birds ; chamois ; the curse osthe swallow — Hospital; chapel Tobacco ■ factory girls at benediction — Pews in German churches . CONTENTS. XXV