Reindeer, Dogs, and Snow-Shoes: a journal of Siberian travel and explorations made in the years 1865, 1866, and 1867 ... With illustrations

Front matter

FlslllT BETWEEN HKINIH.ER ANI> DOGS. (See pflge 220). REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES: A JOURNAL OF SIBERIAN TRAVEL AND EXPL ORA TIONS MADE IN THE YEARS 18C5, 1866, and 1867. By RICHARD J. BUSH, LATE OF THE RUSSO- AMERICAN TELEGRAPH EXPEDITION. If '/T/s /LL US TR A T/ONS. LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, SON, AND MARSTON, CKOWN BUILDINGS, l88 FLEET STREET. l87I. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, by Harper & Brothers, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. TO THE MEMBERS OF THE RUSSO- AMERICAN TELEGRAM AND EXPLORING EXPEDITIONS OP THE YEARS 1S65, 1806, and 1SC7, jJTjn's Journal is most respectfully ISetifrateU i:v THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. About four years have elapsed since the completion of the travels and explorations recorded in the following pages, and even at this late day it is not without great re luctance that the author ventures to lay before the public an account of them ; not that he had deemed such a record unlikely to attract, through dearth of interesting matter, but from a lack of confidence in his ability to portray such matter in a readable, comprehensible, and entertaining man ner. Nevertheless, in response to the earnest solicitations of numerous friends, he now launches this volume forth into the sea of literature, that has been nearly deluging the senses and drowning the patience of the public of late years, there to sink or swim as the Fates may decree. The object of his travels, in connection with others, being merely to make preliminary surveys for the proposed route of the Russo-American telegraph line, he was unprovided with the necessary instruments and means of ascertaining accurately the locations of numerous points mentioned in the succeeding pages, expecting to fix them more definitely as the work progressed ; therefore due allowance must be made for many inaccuracies.

By a perusal of this work, the reader will at once perceive that it is only intended to convey an idea of what the au thor himself saw, heard, and endured during his sojourn of nearly three years in these cold, desolate, and unwritten, yet interesting regions, large portions of which had never before been visited by white men. It has not been his aim

PREFACE.

. VIII to produce a volume valuable in a scientific point of view ; but if, through this means, he contributes any thing to the small budget of knowledge already secured concerning those countries visited by him, or if, after a, perusal of this journal, the reader shall feel compensated for the time con sumed in reading it, its object will have been fully attained. The illustrations may be relied upon for accuracy, having been mostly taken upon the spot by the author him self. The portraits of the natives of different tribes are all from life. San Francisco, April, 1871 . CONTENTS

Chapter I

Object of the Expedition.' — Route of Line. — Western Union Telegraphic- Company. — Colonel Bulkley, Engineer -in -chief. — Arrival in San Francisco, and Organization of Exploring Parties. — Major Abasa. — Our Departure. — The Brig Olga. — Voyage across the Pacific. — Fogs. — Land-ho! — Volcanoes of Kamtchatka. — Preparations for going Ashore. — Kamtchatkan Coast. — Agreeable Surprise. — Avatcha Bay. — Mr. Flenger. — News from the World. — Petropaulovski. — Beautiful Harbor. — Fight with the Allies. — Population. — Early History. — At Anchor. — Esquimaux Dogs. — Impressions. — Native Politeness. — Kamtchadale Cossacks. — Native Costume. — Greek Church. — Bachelor Establishment. — Peachka. — Samovar. — Tea. — Captain Soutkovoi and the Ispravnik. — Behring's Monument. — Russian Hospitality. — Ladies Smoking.— Penates. — Prasniks. — Winter and Summer Amusements. — La Perouse's Monument. —Wild Flowers and Berries. — Battle -ground. — Volcanic Eruption. — Earthquakes. — Soldiers' Graves. — Magazine and CossacE Sentry. — Fishing Party. — Priests. — Dissipation. — Kamtchadal Boats. — Timidity. — American and English Residents. — Pleasures. — Life in Petropaulovski Page 25

Chapter II

Major Ahasa's Plans. — Country to be traversed. — Ho! for the Amoor. — A Pony-ride. — Kamtchadal Horses and Equipment. — The Start. — Posholl! Posholl! — In Misery. — An Experiment. — Kamtchatka of our Expectations. — The Reality. — Fisheries. — Esquimaux Dogs and Crows. — Along the Bay. — Hay-making. — Siberian Cows. — Bears and Wolves. — My gentle Steed. — The Adjutant. — Avatcha Volcano and Village. — By — Thunder ! — A Siberian Exile. — Distrust. — Way Station. — Cockroaches. — Remedy. — Primitive Steam Bath. — Bathing Process. — Ouga. — Return. — False Alarm. — Equine Gymnastics. — My usual Fate. — Houtre. — Making Butter. — Home again. — Last Day in Petropaulovski. — Fur Clothing. — Kuklankers. — Torbassa.' — Chazee. — Malachis andArchaniks. — Furs of Kamtchatka. — " Yassak." — Severe Penalty. — Fur Traders. — Mistaken Impression. — " Yankeeism." — High Rates. — Thunder-storm. — Parting Visits. — Letters. — Farewell 48

Chapter III

Good-by. — Departure. — Parting Glimpses of Avatcha Bay and Surroundings. Fog. — Currents. — Difficult Navigation. — Dead Reckoning. — Breakers ahead ! — Narrow Escape. — Renewed Danger. — Preparations for Landing. — A Puff. — At Sea again. — Ushishir and Ketoy Islands. — Simusir. — CONTENTS. X Boussole Channel. — Provost Mountain. — Chirnoi Group and Volcanoes. — The Okhotsk.— Beautiful Weather. — Whales. — Saghalin Island. — La Pe rouse Straits. — Danger Rock. — Gale. — Japanese Islands. — Jesso. — Sail ho! — Gulf of Tartary. — Manchuria. — Mare's Tails and Mackerel Backs. — De Castries Bay. — Shipping Importance. — Contemplated Canal and Rail way. — Alexandrofski. — Barracks. — Telegraphic Communication. — Cor vettes. — Natural Bridge. — Hospitality. — Wire down. — Russian Officers. — Orders from St. Petersburg. — Inland Route. — Preparations for Journey. — Scarcity of Horses. — Queer Substitute. — Soldiers. — Mount Arbod. — Start. — Rain. — Bad Roads. — Beregovoi Hills. — Deck Passages, Shipwrecks, and Chop Sea. — Lake Kidzi. — Tederovsk. — Soldier Station-keepers. — Gilaks. — Appearance and Dress. — Interior of Hut. — Deference. — Hospitality. — Unappreciative Page 64

Chapter IV

At Tederovsk. — Gloomy Prospects. — Route to Yevetevo Station. — Our Conveyance. — Arrival of the Soldiers. — Off again. — Dismal. — Dangerous Position. — Terra firms. — A Night Tramp along the Shores of the Lake. — Hard Traveling. — Darkness. — Exhaustion. — Wading the Lake. — Hope and Disappointment. — One more Effort. — The Signal. — The Boat. — Arrival at Yevetevo. — The Station. — Our Repast. — Cockroaches. — Appetites. — Dissatisfied Boatman. — Brick Tea. — Off for Vlademirsk. — The Scene. — Vlademirsk. — No Boat. — Russian Soldiers. — Obliging Officer. — The Detail. — Barge.— Admirable Traits. — Boshniak. — Marinsk. — Gilak Lotka. — The Commandant. — Contrast. — Mr. Rosenheim. — Disappointment — A Dilemma. — Extrication. — Poor Accommodations. — Russian Hospitality. — Indolent Males. — Brutality toward the Weaker Sex. — The Boat. — Departure. — The Amoor. — Gilaks. — Habitations. — Subsistence. — Salmon. — Women Rowing. — Scenery of the Amoor 79

Chapter V

Kada. — Irkoutsk. — Post-station. — Horses, Cows, etc. — Freshets. — Old Pole's Misfortune.— Improvidence. — Neatness. — American Appetites. — A Passenger.— Primitive Plow, Anchors, etc.— Departure.— Perfection of Traveling. — Summer Eve on the Amoor. — Our Soldier Boatmen. — Music. —Reticent Soldier. — Mystery solved. — Storm. — Lightning and Gale. — Darkness.— Search for Land.— Unpleasant Prospects.— Shelter.— Fishing Camp.— Unwelcome Sight.— Spirits at Zero.— The Hut.— Russian Hospitality again. — A commendable Trait. — A Night's Experience. — The Fat Captain. — Poor Mahood. — Indignation. — Off again . — Scenery. Gilak Huts.— Mikhaelofski. — Highlands.— Gilaks Fishing. — Tartar Monuments, etc.— Gilak Settlement.— Camp-fire.— Gilak Endurance.— Clothing.— Superstitions. — Religion. — Shamans. — Funeral Rites. — Barbarity.

Murder and Punishment. — Weapons. — Habitations— Good Natures. — Curiosity. Invoking the Gods.— Drifting.— Drowsy Crew.— On Shore.— Gilak Tableaux. — Storks. — Grampuses. — Steamer. — Shipping. — Nikolayefsk.— Seines and Traps go

Chapter VI

Nikolayefsk.— Origin.— Location.— Fortifications.— Appearance.— Gilak Encampments. —Church and Chancellerie.— Dravs.— Mr. Chase.— American Assemblage.— Surprise.— Prasniks or Holidays.— His Excellency Admiral Kazakevitch.— Suspension of Labor.— Difficulties of Building.'— Church CONTENTS. XI Services. — Intoxication. — Lafkas. — Population. — Foreign Merchants. — Guilds. — Starastas. — Houses. — Port Buildings. — Machinery. — Foundry. — Messrs. Barr, Woods, and Elliott. — Barracks. — Club-rooms. — Mails. — Newspaper. — Schools. — Park. — Band. — Amusing Manner of Organizing. — Trades. — Arrival of Admiral Furruhelm. — Reception. — Parades. — Ban quet. — Toasts. — Tossing the Governor. — Distinguished Honor. — Ball. — Ladies Vanish. — Musketry. — Disconsolate Males. — Dearth of Information. — Captains Lindholm and Swartz. — Orell Lake. — Solavaoff. — Tungusians. — Rewards. — Yakov. — Discouraging Assurances. — The Gonets. — Our So journ. — Friends. — Valuable Assistance Page 106

Chapter VII

Departure from Nikolayefsk. — Farewell. — Prophecies of our Friends. — Scarcity of Reindeer. — Mr. Swartz. — Yakov. — Outfit and Provision. — Steamer Gonets. — Up the Amoor. — Margah. — Pilots. — First Ice. — Palvo. — Intricate Channels. — Cleaving through the Ice. — Consultation. — Necessity of pushing ahead. — Snow. — Aground. — Lost in the Storm. — Defeat and Retreat. — Despondency. — Fishing Camp. — Weather moderating. — Rain. — Yakout Pilots. — Fresh Start. — Ice. — Frightened and rebellious Crew. — Open Water. — Orell Lake. — Strong Breeze. — At the Rendezvous. — Gilak Encampment. — No Deer. — Distant Shouts heard. — Mahood's Cruise. — Leaky and smoky Tent. — Our Neighbors. — Shelter. — Cradle. — Industry. — Dogs. — Filthiness. — Sacred Grounds. — News of the Deer. — Party in Search. — Rain. — Game, Fish, and Ukale. — The Gilaks. — Alone. — First Reindeer. — Disappointment. — Their Appearance. — Deer-riding. — A queer Sight. — Experience of the Party. — Mikhaeloff and Constantine. — Tungusians. — Physiognomy. — Customs, Dress, etc. — Deer Feed and Feeding-grounds. — Departure of the Yakouts. — Parting Salutations. — Reverence. — Our Commissariat.— Preparations for the Journey. — Deerpacking and Saddles. — Weak Backs. — Cautiousness. — Remarkable Feat of Strength 116

Chapter VIII

Packing up. — Riding Deer. — A Tableau. — Impressive Ceremony. — Yakov in Danger. — Mounting the Deer. — Mishaps. — The Polka. — Russian Mode of Riding Deer. — Our Journey commenced. — Disgraceful Fall. — The Country. — Making Camp. — Tardy Start. — Lassoing Deer. — The Lariat. — Swamp Land. — Cranberries. — Wild Reindeer. — The Birpocoon. — Curious Mound. — Refractory Pack-deer. — Mikhaeloff's Cure. — The Yasmall. — Rain. — Camp. — -Hunting Grouse. — Success. — Constantine's Shelter. — Tungusian Mode of Sleeping. — The Sabbath. — Diluted Alcohol. — Our Visitors. — Eating Hair-oil. — Still Raining. — Making Portraits. — Humanity in the Wilderness. — Sheared. — Natives. — The Stars. — More Rain. — Bridge-building. — Luna 1 33

Chapter IX

En Route. — Flooded Marshes. — Bad Traveling. — Poor Deer. — Labor of Riding. — A Race. — Impressions on Deer-riding. — Yakov's Ingenuity. — A novel Boot-jack. — Maimed Deer. — Old Man's Head. — Mikhaeloff's bad Shooting. — The Mystery solved. — Mahood's Mishap. — Deer-doctoring. — More Rain. — Snow. — Contrast. — Vanguard of Winter. — The Chimchagalee — The Male Grouse. — Tungusian Mode of Hunting. — Mikhaeloff's Sickness. — The Remedy and Effect. — Our Camp. — Sable Grounds. — The CONTENTS. XII Divide. — First View of Usalghin Bay. — The Sololoucan. — Long Day's Journey. — Broken Thermometer. — The Usalghin River. — Curious Mud Mounds. — Ptarmigan and Cranberries. — Departure of Guides after a Boat. — Desolation. — No Boat. — Shelters for Deer from Musquitpes. — A Feast at Night. — Luxury and the Price. — Bridging. — Sol's Condescen sion. — Rafting the River. — A pretty Sight. — Better Traveling. — First Frostbites. — Ten Degrees Fahrenheit below Zero. — Tracks of Wild Ani mals. — Tungusian Trail. — Deserted Camp. — Death of the Deer. — Cache. — Native Honesty. — The Ulban. — On the lee. — Frozen Lakes. — Crystal Carpets. — The Seran. — Jivarack. — Tugur Valley Page 143

Chapter X

Approaching Tugur. — History of Tugur. — Early Settlement. — Cossack Adventurers. — Tungusian Encampment. — Beauty and Indifference. — Costume. — Manner of Riding. — The Contine. — Tugur. — Disappointment. — Sable -hunting. — The sole Inhabitant. — Tugur River. — The Hut. — End of first Journey. — Yakout Settlement. — Hospitable Reception. — The Yakouts. — Yakoutsk. — Torbassa. — The Samovar. — A Lily in the Desert. — Tungusian Starasta. — Bargaining for Deer. — Vassilly and Eoff. — Purchasing Clothing and Bedding. — Fresh Beef. — Smoky Tent. — Departure of Mikhaeloff and Constantine. — A Love Mission. — A big Price. — Courtship and Marriage among the Tungusians. — Our tipsy Friends. — Off again. — The Algocan. — Snow-storm. — Weak Eyes. — Our new Deer. — The Malmazine. — Deep Snow and difficult Traveling. — Snow-shoes. — Yakov's Confidence. — Curiosity. — Natives in Distress. — Amusing Scene. — Aria Hills. — Deep Snow. — Deer-trail. — Gradual Ascent. — Natural Amphitheatre. — Difficult and dangerous Climb. — Avalanches. — Our good Fortune. — A glorious View. — The Descent. — Difficulty in Mounting. — Provoking Experience. — Open Camp. — Stampede of Deer. — Poor Eoff! — The Aria. ... 155

Chapter XI

Approaching Solavaoff's. — Valley of the Aria. — Sougyol River. — Tungusian Fishermen and Fish-traps. — The Settlement. — Cattle-raising. — Distinction. — Valuable Service and Reward. — Yakout Yourt. — Windows. — Chual. — Penates and Samovar. — Meeting old Friends. — Filth, Destitution, and Industry. — The Belle of the Village. — A trying Ordeal.— Escape from the Dilemma. — Additional Annoyances. — Departure. — Torum River. — Tungusian Grave. — Wolf-tracks. — Necessary Precautions. — Siberian Wolves.— Habits.— Mode of Capture.— The Wo"lf-pen.— Disagreeable Proximity of the Animals. — Tela Hills. — Prospect. — Elbow and Shantar Islands. — First View of the Juygur Mountains. — Forest Trees. — Great and Small Tela Rivers. — Journey by Moonlight. — Crooked Trails. — Uda River.— Algasee.— Our Reception.— Old Guilioff— A hideous Object.— Horses as Food.— Dainty Portions.— Meeting of Yakov and Guilioff.— John Brown among the Tungusians.— Swartz's Adventure.— At Sea on the Ice. — Imminent Danger.— Hunger and Thirst.— Mental Agony.— Providential Escape. — Feeding Dogs for the Journey 171

Chapter XII

Swartz's Blunder.— Daybreak.— Exciting Scene.— Preparations for our first Dog-ride.— Enthusiasm of Dogs.— The Narta, or Sled.— Manner of harnessing and guiding Dogs.— The Ostle.— A crestfallen Animal.— Loading Sleds.— The Start, and Jump-off Place.— Contrast.— Dog Character. CONTENTS. XIII — Clannishness, Rivalry, etc. — A Melee and its Consequences.— Halts.— The Uda River and Surroundings. — Tea and Ukale. — Ukale for Road Use. — A Fox-chase. — Oudskoi at Night — Astonishment of the Inhabitants. — The Ispravnik's House. — Agreeable Surprise. — Our cordial Reception. — Vodki. — The Priest and his Antics. — Supper. — A sacrilegious Stratagem. — Oudskoi Society and Customs. — The Town by Daylight. — The Greek Church and Service. — Mockery. — Simple-minded Natives. — A bamboozled Sergeant. — The Priesthood. — Father Ivan's House and Family. — Our Quar ters. — A Vechourka. — The Elite. — Music. — Dances. — An embarrassing Position. — Early Recollections. — Vodki and Tea. — Ball Costume. — Snow shoes and Snow-shoe Practice. — The Polka. — Successful Slide and Super natural Agency Page 184

Chapter XIII

Russian Steam Bath. — Its Effects. — Our Quarters. — Temperature. — The Saints as Bankers. — Thievish Propensities of Natives, and Superstitious Notions. — A peculiar Disease. — Heartless Proceeding. — Taken by Surprise. — A helpless Victim. — Remedy. — Horse-meat Experiment. — Eating Entrails. — Ispravnik's Disinclination to aid us. — Dispatch Tungusians after Deer. — Arrival of Yakout Caravan. — Our good Luck. — A great Occasion. — Baptismal Ceremony. — Mahood's Predicament. — Spitting upon the Devil. — Russian Names. — Congratulations. — Duties of Godfathers. — Great Prasnik. — Patron Saint of Siberia. — Name's Days. — Celebration. — Story of Saint Innocentia. — The Starobradets. — Miraculous Interposition. — Saint Nikolai's Day and Salute. — Blessing Images. — Religious Farce. — Rascally Priests. — Tungusians return. — No Guides. — Mainukan Route. — Discouragements. — Our intended Route. — Fresh Outfit. — Frozen Milk. — Ivan's Departure with Deer. — A farewell Vechourka 200

Chapter XIV

A Russian Parting. — Cossack Parade and Parting Salute. — A Night Journey. — Tungusian Hunter. — Deer devoured by Wolves. — Off for Ajan. — Along the Sea-shore. — The Cliffs. — Ice-bench. — Difficult Passage. — Antikan River. — Christmas Eve. — A Winter Camp Scene. — Difficult Journalizing. — The Day's Journey. — Goram River. — Unfavorable Prospect. — Christmas. — Cold and difficult Traveling. — A fruitless Effort. — Our Intentions. — Grand Scenery. — Cache' and Fox-trap. — Scurvy. — A Consultation and Conclusion. — Arduous Traveling. — Burned Land. — Activity essential. — Uncertainty. — Frostbites. — The coldest yet. — Telefont and his Scurvy. — Routine of Camping. — Thawing out. — "Chi gotova." — Source of the Goram. — On the Summit of the Juggur. — The View. — Difficult Descent. — Misled by Wild Deer. — Another hard Climb. — Swollen Ankle 213

Chapter XV

Indications of a Poorga. — Signs of an Encampment. — Deserted Camp. — Signals. — Lost Trail. — Hunters' Camp on the Maimikan. — Charge of Reindeer. — Tungusian Beauty. — Alexai. — Engaging a Guide. — New-year's Day. — Celebration. — Making Calls. — The Tent. — Beautiful Phenomenon. — Mock Moons. — New-year's Dinner. — False Alarm. — Cold ■Weather. — On the Back Track. — Driving Snow. — Lobla River. — Astonishing eating Capacity. — A Tungusian Supper. — Improvidence. — The Yakouts as Eaters. — Cruel Mode of killing Horses. — Fox-traps. — The CONTENTS. XIV Goram again.— The Econda River.— Keen Scent of Reindeer. — Kedrov nik. — Crossing Kela Khrebet. — Cutting Wind and Frostbites. — Snow shoeing.—Undermined.—Crashing through the Ice.— Neamur River and Valley. — Ephraim Caramsin, the Bear-hunter. — Light Snow. — Method of Snaring Bears.— Mountain Sheep Page 225

Chapter XVI

Remarkable Endurance of Natives. — Meat Cache.. — Encampment. — Sappho — her Self-possession. — Tungusian Toys.- — Artistic Talent. — The Test. — Ephraim's Return. — Siberian Squirrels. — Tungusian Guns. — Economy. — Trying Bear-meat. — Bestowing a Present. — The Consequences. — Ingratitude. — Reindeer Tongues. — Sheep-horn Spoons. — My first frozen Nose. — Stupid Proceeding. — A tender Organ. — Precautions. — Mukta River. — Orowa. — Monotony. — Daily Programme. — Diana and her Nymphs. — Band of Tungusians. — Conveyance of Children. — Child's Costume. — Naugtara River. — Squalls and driving Snow. — Tent down.- — Warm Day. — Maimai. — Hungry Deer. — Flight of a Nymph. — Ouey Khrebet. — Long, hard Journey. — Post-road abandoned. — Our Anxiety. — The Station. — A mixed-up Mess. — Exhausted. — Retire 235

Chapter XVII

Our good Fortune. — Privilege of an Explorer. — Undignified Pranks. — Exhausted Deer. — The Post-road. — Mail. — Reindeer and Sleds. — Summer Journeying. — The Sea. — Ajan Bay. — First View of Ajan. — The Town. — Beautiful Locality. — Vandalism. — Mr. Popoff, Police -master. — Siberian Nectar. — Native Reports verified.- — Hospitality. — Promptness and Generosity. — More Discouragements. — Ajan of the Past. — Palmy Days of the Okhotsk. — Scarcity of Provisions. — Medicinal Wants. — Settling with Guides. — Seeking Quarters. — Faded Grandeur. — Ajan Amusements. — Nikolaiovna, the Cossack Widow. — An ungallant Plot. — The Vechourka. — Music. — Personal Experience. — Astounding Endurance. — Badly Worsted. — My insatiable Partner. — Fine Prospects. — The Peninsula. — Mount Miak. — A difficult and dangerous Climb. — My Imprudence. — A glorious View. — Disagreeable Altitude. — Frozen Hands. — The Descent 245

Chapter XVIII

Anxiety to start. — Abandoned Project. — Arrival of Tungusians. — Procure Deer. — Excursion with Reindeer and Sleds. — The Cavern. — Our Indebtedness to the Residents. — Departure. — Night Journey. — The Slides. — Sharpsightedness. — Capsize. — My flying Driver. — A glorious Ride. — Reindeer Speed. — Reach the Station. — Romann Caramsin. — Settled Tungusians. — Character, Religion, etc. — Government. — Aristocracy. — Careful Reception. — Bottomless Stomachs. — New Guides. — Medusa. — Change Route. — Aldemir River. — Tungusian Piety. — Road-breaking Deer. — Dog Trail. — Micache. —Ilpangee. —Light Snow. —The Toucha. —Oulinkan. — Conflagrations. — The Cachee River. — Tungusian Offerings. —Mahood's Contribution.— Sunday.— Hard Traveling. — Ascent of the Juggur.— The Divide. — Dissimilarity in Country. — Multan. — Level Country. — Mount Bulkley. — Ulkan.— On the Trot.— Improvement in Deer.— Vieiousness.— Medusa's Discomfiture 259

Chapter XIX

Alarming Considerations.— Health. — Prospects of Sickness. — Ptarmigan again.— Black Cocks. — Feeding-grounds. — Arrival at Yourt.— Sojourn.— CONTENTS. XV Epicurean Repast. — Wealthy Native. — Liquor. — Bear - spears. — Bear traps, etc. — Under the Weather. — Yalbandya. — Tota. — Deserted Camp. — Fish-traps, etc. — A beautiful Sunset. — Peculiar Passion of the Reindeer, and Manner in which the Natives profit by it. — Menmoioon Mountain. — False Alarm. — Neotl River. — Half-way House. — Deserted. — Tents and Reception. — News of the Major. — Cossack and Dispatches. — Style of Tent. — Caldron. — Native Hospitality. — Killing the fatted Deer. — A Native Repast. — Mode of Eating. — Tungusian Ugliness. — A brace of Beauties. — Costume. — The Charm destroyed. — 36° minus Fahrenheit. — A Night with the Natives. — Miakan. — Elikan. — Deceived. — Tungusian Settlement. — Old Ivan the Starasta. — A Great-grandfather. — Tea. — A well-deserved Rebuke. — Difficult Conversation. — French in Disrepute. — Mode of killing Deer. — Esquimaux Game of Ball. — Shamanism. — Original Creed. — Good and Evil Spirits. — Condition of Uncertainty. — Worthless Priests. — Shaman Incantations. — Shyness. — Rascality. — Miraculous Cure. — The Price. — Ar rival of Cossack Sergeant. — News of our old Companions. — Successful Ex plorations Page 273

Chapter XX

Herding Deer. — Nightly Detail. — Separating the Herd. — A Charge. — Our Caravan. — Arteran River. — Asungorun. — Colowinga Ridge. — Troublesome Deer. — Deermanship. — Guides desire a Halt. — Deceptions. — Snapping Morning. — Our Tent at Daybreak. — Morning Routine. — Striking Fire. — Justifiable Profanity. — A bejeweled Landscape. — Forty-six Degrees below Zero. — Early Start. — Asungorun. — Burned Tract. — Nuednice. — A dead Forest. — Parhelia. — Ounene. — Mertee. — Mixed-up Geography. — Alexai's Brother. — Deserted Yourt. — Dispatch Messengers. — Their Success. — The Convention. — Meeting of the Brothers. — Undemonstrativeness. — A Night Search. — A frigid Region. — Mahood's Departure. — Arrival of Deer. — On the Road again. — Horseshoe Course. — Mahood's Camp. — Elevated Lands. — Across the Juggur. — Contrast. — Descent. — Urta River. — Encampment. — Tala. — Umka. — A Treat. — Military Necessity. — Coulomkan. — Long and last Journey with Reindeer. — Dogs again. — Down the Oulia. — Sled from Ourak. — Departure for Ourak. — Swartz as Rear-guard. — Along the Coast. — Poorga Guides. — Ourak. — Habitations. — The Yakouts. — Character. — Appearance. — Early History. — Ending our Task. — Okhotsk. — Disappointment. — Desolation. — Okhota River. — History. — Summer Sports. — Fish 288

Chapter XXI

Another Journey. — A comparatively pleasure Trip. — Short Notice. — Start. — Last View of Okhotsk. — Pavoshkas. — Luxurious Traveling. — Our Teams. — Indications of the Approach of Spring. — Tundra Hummocks. — The Sea. — Salt Ice. — First Duck. — Post-yourt. — Ena. — Fast Traveling. — Our Reception. — Change Dogs. — Native Curiosity. — Politeness. — The Town. — Poorga Indications. — Start. — Tumoff River. — The Poorga. — Frightened Drivers. — Moral Persuasion. — Climbing the Mountain. — Sleds Lost. — Pavoshka Traveling. — Lost in the Storm. — Dismayed Drivers. — A Lull. — The Summit. — Furious Descent. — Timely Precaution. — Narrow Escape. — Broken Sled. — Snow Caverns and Precipices. — Overhanging Masses. — Dangerous Traveling.— Fish Deposits.— Team -dogs. — Distemper. — Tedious Traveling. — Sled - road. — Cowey River. — Snow - squalls. — Road Lunches. — Imperial Ermine. — Dead Dogs. — Late Traveling. — Tausk Bay. — Hummocks. — Cutting our Way. — Repairing Sleds. — Tausk CONTENTS. XVI

Chapter XXII

Tausk. — Population. — Tausk Bay. — Peeping. — Frank Leslie's and Harper's Pictorials. — Government Postilion. — News from Kennan. — Value of Ermine. — Ermine Traps. — Departure for Dobratown. — A lazy Team and more lazy Driver. — Knowledge of ' ' American. " — Annan. — Lamut Chiefs. — Native Livelihood. — Decoration. — Improvidence. — Amusing Idea of Telegraph. — Dosing the Sick. — Disease. — A Band at Sea. — Armani. — Conflict between Dcgs and Deer. — The Polog. — Seal-oil Lamps. — Journey to Yamsk. — Forced Traveling. — Dogs in Boots. — Ice and Bone Sled-runners. — Agates. —Tinder. — Mode of making Fire. — Canine Character and Peculiarities. — Leader's Sagacity. — Night Journey. — Buried in the Snow. — Resurrecting. — Misplaced Confidence. — Yamsk. — Industry of settled Koraks. — A Poorga. — Along the Coast. — Toumane. — Outrageous Impudence. — Ce chas. — Famished Dogs. — Postilion's Mishap. — A starvnig Community. — Criminal Negligence. — Annual Famines. — Abundance of Fish. — Government Aid. — Laziness. — Reliance upon the Lamuts Page 315

Chapter XXIII

Departure from Toumane. — Villiga Mountains. — Piety.- — A wise Swallow. — Passing the Ridge. — Villiga River. — A night Journey. — Lost. — A Yourt full of Snow. — Surprising Endurance of Dogs. — Tavatoma River. — Hot Springs. — Niakhana. — News from Kennan. — His Exploration of the Anadyr. — Party rescued. — Uneasiness for Macrae and Arnold. — Ghijigha Gulf and River. — Ghijigha. — Journey ended. — District Head-quarters. — Early History. — Affanassa Shestakova. — Inhabitants. — Occupations and Amusements. ■ — Fur Trade. — Easter Preparations. — Swinging. — Feasting and Fasting. — Easter Services. — Midnight Surprise. — Kennan, Macrae, and Arnold. — Macrae's Party and Experiences. — Late Arrival. — Building Cabin. — Fuel. — Winter. — Unenviable Position. — Trying Uncertainty. — Okakrae. — Tchuctchus. — Bargaining by Signs. — Macrae and Robinson's Adventure. — Life and Death. — Its Consequences. — Arrival of Okakrae. — Wewoki. — Departure of Macrae and Arnold. — Annoying Slowness. — Arnora River. — Overbearing Treatment. — Tchuctchu Conclave. — Deer-chief. — Threatened Abandonment. — Questionable Diet. — At Anadyrsk. — Surprise. — Kennan's Adventures and Travels. — Dodd. — Explorations completed. — Approaching Spring. — Appointments. — Preparations to depart again.— Our Sleds 330

Chapter XXIV

Departure from Ghijigha. — Molmofka River. — Yakout Yourt. — Purchasing Milk. — Dogs and Cow. — Yourt. — The Tundra. — Snow-blindness. — Desolation. — Usinova River. — Paren. — Eagles' Nests. — Early Start. — Poorga. — First View of Coeil. — A close Race. — Coeil. — Strange Buildings. — Pagan Sacrifices. — Seeking an Entrance. — Interior. — Zda-ro-o-o-va. — Caldrons. — Curiosity. — Seat of Honor. — Vermin. — Koraks. — Appearance. — Costume. — Character. — Korak Meal. — Grunting. — Trading. — Korak Dance. — The Town. — Population. — Fuel. — Civilized Koraks. — Settled Koraks. — Reindeer - men. — Living. — Boats. — Weapons. — Snow - shoes. — Worship. — Passion for strong Drink. — Muck-a-moor. — Method of becoming Intoxicated. — Marriage Ceremony. — One-sided Affair. — No Dog-food. — Shooting with Bows and Arrows. — Insensibility. — Narrow Escape. — Running and Wrestling. — Start. — Meekina. — Inhospitable Reception. — CONTENTS.

XVII Shestakova Settlement and River. — Ice-bridges. — Shestakova Khrebet. — Cold Traveling. — Snow Encampment. — Night Costume. — Aklan River. — Fish and Game. — Resuscitating Dogs.- — Severe Remedy Page 347

Chapter XXV

More Tundra. — Ooscanina Mountain. — Worn-out Dogs. — Mystery Solved. — Ineffectual Scolding. — A good Ruse. — Ooscanina Rivers. — Ishiginski Mountain. — Valley of the Penjina. — A fearful Poorga. — Scattered Sleds. — A Night-search. — Penjina. — Anadyrsk Sleds. — Proposed Exploration of the Myan. — Serious Obstacles. — The Start. — Slavotna River. — Laceitsa Soapka. — The Myan. — Mount Polpol. — A Mirage. — Strange Illusion. — Dancing City. — Polpol River. — Korak Trail. — Snow-storm. — Poorga Camp. — Polog. — Hunting Wood. — Stormy Night. — Hunting Koraks. — Success. — Reindeer Koraks. — Character aud Appearance. — Great Wealth. — Government. — Lords and Retainers. — The Value of Reindeer. — Their Uses. — Sonkees. — Advantages of F'ish as Dog-food. — Fearful Poorga. — May-day. — Keeping Awake. — Provoking Deception. — Off again. — More Poorga. — Return River. — Seeking Shelter. — Roast-rib Camp. — The Myan. — Thawing. — Day Halts. — A tender Organ. — Remedy for Snow-blindness. — Orlofka River. — Abasa River. — Swans and Bear-tracks. — Game. — Sledtracks. — Our Speculations. — Nature of Country. — Traveling. — Prospect Bluff. — Night-thaw. — Laluma. — Exhaustion. — Overtaken. — Last Fish. — Olgan River. — Telegraph Bluff. — Anadyr Valley. — Crepast. — Close of Journey 3C3