The Cruise of the 'Cachalot' round the world after sperm-whales, etc

Front matter

Frontispiece. THE "CACHALOT." (See page 3.) THE CRUISE OF THE "CACHALOT" ROUND THE WORLD AFTER SPERM WHALES BY FRANK T. BULLEN FIKST MATE WITH ILLUSTRATIONS LONDON SMITH, ELDER & CO., 15, WATERLOO PLACE 1898 (All rights reserved) TO Miss EMILY HENSLEY IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE OF THIRTY YEARS' CONSTANT FRIENDSHIP AND PRACTICAL HELP THIS WORK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY HER HUMBLE PUPIL, b LETTER received by the Author from Mr. RUDYARD KIPLING, as the booh ivas passing through the Press. Dear Me. Bullen, — It is immense — there is no other word I've never read anything that equals it in its deep sea wonder and mystery ; nor do I think that any book before has so completely covered the whole business of whale-fishing, and at the same time given such real and new sea pictures. You have thrown away material enough to make five books, and I congratulate you most heartily. It's a new world that you've opened the door to. Very sincerely, RUDYARD KIPLING. Eottingdean, Nov. 22, 1898.

Preface

. In the following pages an attempt has been made — it is believed for the first time — to give an account of the cruise of a South Sea whaler from the seaman's stand point. Two very useful books * have been published — both of them over half a century ago — on the same sub ject ; but, being written by the surgeons of whale-ships for scientific purposes, neither of them was interesting to the general reader. They have both been long out of print ; but their value to the student of natural history has been, and still is, very great, Dr. Beale's book, in particular, being still the authority on the sperm whale. This book does not pretend to compete with either of the above valuable works. Its aim is to present to the general reader a simple account of the methods employed, and the dangers met with, in a calling about which the great mass of the public knows absolutely nothing.

Pending the advent of some great writer who shall see the wonderful possibilities for litera ture contained in the world-wide wanderings of the South Sea whale-fishers, the author has endeavoured * " Narrative of a Whaling Voyage round the Globe," by F. Debell Bennett, F.R.C.S. (2 vols.). Bentley, London (1840). " The Sperm Whale Fishery," by Thomas Beale, M.R.C.S. London (1835). PREFaICE. to summarize his experiences so that they may be read without weariness, and, it is hoped, with profit. The manifold shortcomings of the work will not, it is trusted, be laid to the account of the subject, than which none more interesting could well be imagined, but to the limitations of the writer, whose long experience of sea life has clone little to foster the literary faculty. One claim may be made with perfect confidence — that if the manner be not all that could be wished, the matter is entirely trustworthy, being compiled from actual observation and experience, and in no case at second-hand.

An endeavour has also been made to exclude such matter as is easily obtainable elsewhere — matters of common knowledge and "padding" of any sort — the object not being simply the making of a book, but the record of little-known facts. Great care has been taken to use no names either of ships or persons, which could, by being identified, give annoyance or pain to any one, as in many cases strong language has been necessary for the expression of opinions. Finally, the author hopes that, although in no sense exclusively a book for boys, the coming generation may find this volume readable and interesting; and with that desire he offers it confidently, though in all humility, to that great impartial jury, the public. F. T. B. Dulwich, July, 1897. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Outward Bound

Adrift in New Bedford — I get a ship— A motley crowd — " Built by the mile, and cut off as )*ou want 'em "—Mistah Jones— Greenies — Off to sea 1

Chapter II. Preparing For Action

Primitive steering-gear— Strange drill— Misery below— Short commons— Goliath rigs the " crow's-nest "—Useful information—Preparing for war — Strange weapons — A boat-load .

Chapter III. Fishing Begins

The cleanliness of a whale-ship — No skulking — Porpoise-fishing — Cannibals — Cooking operations — Boat-drill — A good look-out — " Black -fishing " — Roguery in all trades— Plenty of fresh beef — The nursery of American whalemen

Chapter IV

bad weatheii. Nautical routine — The first gale — Comfort versus speed — A grand sea-boat — The Sargasso Sea — Natural history pursuits — Dolphin — Unconventional fishing — Rumours of a visit to the Cape Verdes — Babel below — No allowance, but not "full and plenty" — Queer washing — Method of sharing rations — The " slop-shop " opened — Our prospects ... CONTENTS. X PAQK 34 85

Chapter V. Actual Warfare

OUR FIRST WHALE. Premonitions — Discussion on whaling from unknown premisses — I wake in a fright — Sperm whales at last — The war begins — Warning — We get fast — And get loose — In trouble — An uncomfortable situation — No pity — Only one whale — Rigging the " cutting-stage " — Securing the whale alongside .

Chapter VI

" DIRTY WORK FOR CLEAN MONEY." Goliath in trouble — Commence " cutting in " — A heavy head — A tank of spermaceti — Decks running with oil — A " patent " mincing-machine — Extensive cooking — Dangerous work — Three tuns of oil — A horrible mess — A thin-skinned monster — A fine mouth of teeth ...... 45

Chapter VII. Getting Southward

Captain Slocum's amenities — Expensive beer — St. Paul's Rocks — " Bonito " — " Showery " weather — Waterspouts — Calms — A friendly finback — A disquisition on whales by Mistah Jones — Flying-fishing ....... 55

Chapter VIII. Abner's Whale

Abner in luck — A big " fish " at last — A feat of endurance — A fighting whale — The sperm whale's food — Ambergris — A good reception — Hard labour — Abner's reward — "Scrimshaw" (58

Chapter IX. Our First Calling-place

A forced march — Tristan d'Acunha — Visitors — Fresh provisions — A warm welcome — Goliath's turn — A feathered host — Good gear — A rough time — Creeping north — Uncertainty — " Rule of thumb " navigation — The Mozambique Channel . CONTENTS. XI 139

Chapter X

A VISIT TO SOME STRANGE PLACES. Tropical thunderstorms— A "record" day's fishing— Cetacean frivolities — Mistah Jones moralizes — A snug harbour- Wooding and watering— Catching a turtle— Catching a "Tartar" — A violent death — A crooked jaw— Aldabra Island — Primeval inhabitants— A strange steed— " Pirate " birds— Good eggs — Green cocoa-nuts— More turtle— A school of " kogia " ..... . 103

Chapter XI. Round The Cocos Amd Seychelles

We encounter a " cyclone " — A tremendous gust — A foundering ship — To anchor for repairs — The Cocos— Repairing damages — Around the Seychelles — A "milk "sea — A derelict prahu — A ghastly freight — A stagnant sea ... 128

Chapter XII. Which Treats Of The Kraken

" Eyes and no eyes " at sea — Of big mollusca — The origin of sea-serpent stories — Rediscovery of the " Kraken " — A conflict of monsters — "The insatiable nightmares of the sea" — Spermaceti running to waste — The East Indian maze

Chapter XIII. Off To The Japan Grounds

A whale off Hong Kong — The skipper and his " bomb-gun "— Injury to the captain — Unwelcome visitors — The heathen Chinee — We get safe off — " Death of Portagee Jim " — The Funeral — The Coast of Japan — Port Lloyd — Meeting of whale-ships . . . . . . . .149

Chapter XIV. Liberty Day

— AND AFTER. Liberty day — I foregather with a " beach-comber " — A big fight — Goliath on the war-path — A court-martial — Wholesale CONTENTS. PAGB 101 17ft 191 224 flogging — A miserable crowd— Quite a fleet of whale-ships — I " raise " a sperm whale— Severe competition — An unfortunate stroke — The skipper distinguishes himself

Chapter XV. Which Comes Uncomfortably Near Being The Last

I come to grief — Emulating Jonah — Sharing a flurry — A long spell of sick-leave— The whale's " sixth sense " — Off to the Kuriles — Prepare for " bowhead "-fishing — The Sea of Okhotsk — Abundant salmon- — The "daintiness" of seamen

Chapter XVI

" BOWHEAD " FISHING. Difference between whales — Popular ideas exploded — The gentle mysticetus — Very tame work — Fond of tongue — Goliath confides in me — An awful affair — Captain Slocum's death — " Not Amurath an Amurath succeeds " — I am promoted

Chapter XX

" HUMPBACKING " AT VAU VAU. " Gamming" again — A Whitechapel rover — Arrive at Vau Vau — Valuable friends — A Sunday ashore — " Hollingside " — The natives at church — Full-dress — Very " mishnally " — ■ Idyllic cruising — Wonderful mother-love — A mighty feast .

Chapter XXI. Progress Of The

" HUMPBACK " SEASON. A fruitless chase — Placid times — A stirring adventure — A vast cave — Unforeseen company — A night of terror — We provide a feast for the sharks — The death of Abner — An impressive ceremony — An invitation to dinner — Kanaka cookery

Chapter XXII. Farewell To Vau Vau

Ignorance of the habits of whales — A terrific encounter — Vœ Victis ! — Rewarding our " flems " — We leave Vau Vau — The Outward bounder — Sailors' " homes " — A night of horror — Sudden death— Futuna 274

Chapter XXIII. At Futuna, Recruiting

A fleet of nondescripts — " Tui Tongoa," otherwise Sam — Eager recruits — Devout Catholics — A visit to Sunday Island— A Crusoe family — Their eviction — Maori cabbage — Fine fishing — Away for New Zealand — Sight the " Three Kings " — The Bay of Islands 291

Chapter XXIV The Bay Of Islands And New Zealand Coast

Sleepy hollow — Wood and water — Liberty day— A plea for the sailors' recreation — Our picnic — A whiff of "Maj*" — A delightful excursion — To the southward again — Wintry weather — Enter Foveaux Straits . . . . .310 CONTENTS. XIV PAGE

Chapter XXV. On The Solander Grounds

Firstfruits of the Solander — An easy catch — Delights of the Solander— Port William— The old Chance—" Paddy Gilroy " — Barbarians from the East End — Barracouta - fishing — Wind-bound — An enormous school of cachalots — Misfortune — A bursting whale — Back on the Solander again — Cutting in at Port William — Studying anatomy — Badly battered Yankees — Paddy in luck again .... 323

Chapter XXVI

paddy's latest exploit. We try Preservation Inlet — An astounding feat of Paddy Gilroy's 348

Chapter XXVII. Port Pegasus

Port Pegasus — Among old acquaintances — "Mutton birds'" — Skilled auxiliaries — A gratifying catch — Leave port again — Back to the Solander— A grim escape — Our last whales — Into Port William again — Paddy' s assistance — We part with our Kanakas — Sam's plans of conquest . . . 357

Chapter XXVIII. To The Bluff, And Home

And last — In high-toned company — Another picnic — Depart from the Bluff — Hey for the Horn! — Among the icebergs — " Scudding " — Favouring trades — A narrow escape from collision — Home at last ...... LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. TO FACE PAGE The " Cachalot "..... Frontispiece Lancing a Whale ........ 39 The Whale started off to Windward with us at a Tremendous Rate ....... 74 Firing a Bomb-lance . . . . . . .119 A Very Large Sperm Whale was locked in Deadly Conflict with a Squid ...... 143 On his Back, with his Jaw in the First Biting Position 235 A .Jen-mile Steady Pull to Windward .... 252 The Vast Flukes of the Whale . . . shore off the Bow of the Attacking Boat ...... 269 Map — The Mean Track of the " Cachalot " on a Whaling Cruise round the World ......

Introduction

. Without attempting the ambitious task of presenting a comprehensive sketch of the origin, rise, and fall of whale fishing as a whole, it seems necessary to give a brief out line of that portion of the subject bearing upon the theme of the present book before plunging into the first chapter. This preliminary is the more needed for the reason alluded to in the Preface — the want of knowledge of the subject that is apparent everywhere. The Greenland whale fishery has been so popularized that most people know something about it ; the sperm whale fishery still awaits its Scoresby and a like train of imitators and borrowers. Cachalots, or sperm whales, must have been captured on the coasts of Europe in a desultory way from a very early date, by the incidental allusions to the prime pro ducts spermaceti and ambergris which are found in so many ancient writers.

Shakespeare's reference — " The sovereign'st thing on earth was parmaceti for an inward bruise " — will be familiar to most people, as well as Mil ton's mention of the delicacies at Satan's feast — " Gris amber steamed " — not to carry quotation any further. But in the year 1690 the brave and hardy fishermen of the north-east coasts of North America established

INTRODUCTION.

. that systematic pursuit of the cachalot which has thriven so wonderfully ever since, although it must be confessed* that the last few years have witnessed a serious decline in this great branch of trade. For many years the American colonists completely engrossed this branch of the whale fishery, contentedly leaving to Great Britain and the continental nations the monopoly of the northern or Arctic fisheries, while they cruised the stormy, if milder, seas around their own shores. For the resultant products, their best customer was the mother country, and a lucrative commerce steadily grew up between the two countries. But when the march of events brought the unfortunate and wholly unnecessary War of Independence, this flourishing trade was the first to suffer, and many of the daring fishermen became our fiercest foes on board their own men-of-war.

The total stoppage of the importation of sperm oil and spermaceti was naturally severely felt in England, for time had not permitted the invention of substitutes. In consequence of this, ten ships were equipped and sent out to the sperm whale fishery from England in 1775, most of them owned by one London firm, the Messrs. Enderby. The next year, in order to encourage the infant enterprise, a Government bounty, graduated from £500 to _£1000 per ship, was granted. Under this fostering care the number of ships engaged in the sperm whale fishery progressively increased until 1791, when it attained its maximum. This method of whaling being quite new to our whalemen, it was necessary, at great cost, to hire

INTRODUCTION.

. XIX American officers and harpooners to instruct them in the ways of dealing with these highly active and dangerous cetacea. Naturally, it was by-and-by found possible to dispense with the services of these auxiliaries ; but it must be confessed that the business never seems to have found such favour, or to have been prosecuted with such smartness, among our whalemen as it has by the Americans. Something of an exotic the trade always was among us, although it did attain considerable proportions at one time. At first the fishing was confined to the Atlantic Ocean ; nor for many years was it necessary to go farther afield, as abundance of whales could easily be found. As, however, the number of ships engaged increased, it was inevitable that the known grounds should become exhausted, and in 1788 Messrs. Enderby's ship, the Emilia, first ventured round Cape Horn, as the pioneer of a greater trade than ever.

The way once pointed out, other ships were not slow to follow, until, in 1819, the British whale-ship Syren opened up the till then unex plored tract of ocean in the western part of the North Pacific, afterwards familiarly known as the " Coast of Japan." From these teeming waters alone, for many years an average annual catch of 40,000 barrels of oil was taken, which, at the average price of £8 per barrel, will give some idea of the value of the trade generally. The Australian colonists, early in their career, found the sperm whale fishery easy of access from all their coasts, and especially lucrative. At one time they bade fair to establish a whale fishery that should rival the XX

INTRODUCTION.

. splendid trade of the Americans ; but, like the mother country, they permitted the fishery to decline, so that even bounties could not keep it alive. Meanwhile, the Americans added to their fleet continually, prospering amazingly. But suddenly the advent of the civil war let loose among those peaceable cruisers the devastating Alabama, whose course was marked in some parts of the world by the fires of blazing whale-ships. A great part of the Geneva award was on this account, although it must be acknowledged that many pseudo-owners were enriched who never owned aught but brazen impudence and influential friends to push their fictitious claims. The real sufferers, seamen especially, in most cases never received any redress whatever. From this crushing blow the American sperm whale fishery has never fully recovered.

When the writer was in the trade, some twenty-two years ago, it was credited with a fleet of between three and four hundred sail ; now it may be doubted whether the numbers reach an eighth of that amount. A rigid conservatism of method hinders any revival of the industry, which is practically conducted to-day as it was fifty, or even a hundred years ago ; and it is probable that another decade will 'witness the final extinction of what was once one of the most important maritime industries in the world. Colnett, Hug-gins, and Beale. Spei._i Whale, or Cachalot (Physeter Macroceplialua). THE CEUISE OF THE "CACHALOT."

Chapter I. Outwaed Bound

At the age of eighteen, after a sea-experience of six years from the time when I dodged about London streets, a ragged Arab, with wits sharpened by the constant fight for food, I found myself roaming the streets of New Bedford, Massachusetts. How I came to be there, of all places in the world, does not concern this story at all, so I am not going to trouble my readers with it; enough to say that I was there, and mighty anxious to get away. Sailor Jack is always hankering for shore when he is at sea, but when he is " outward bound " — that is, when his money is all gone — he is like a cat in the rain there. So as my money was all gone, I was hungry for a ship ; and when a long, keen-looking man with a goat like beard, and mouth stained with dry tobacco-juice, B hailed me one afternoon at the street corner, I answered very promptly, scenting a berth.

" Lookin' fer a ship, stranger?" said he. "Yes; do you want a hand?" said I, anxiously. He made a funny little sound some thing like a pony's whinny, then answered, "Wall, I should surmise that I want between fifty and sixty hands, ef yew kin lay me onto 'em ; but, kem along, every dreep's a drop, an' yew seem likely enough." With that he turned and led the way until we reached a building, around which were gathered one of the most nondescript crowds I had ever seen. There certainly did not appear to be a sailor among them. Not so much by their rig, though that is not a great deal to go by, but by their actions and speech. One thing they all had in common, tobacco chewing ; but as nearly every male I met with in America did that, it was not much to be noticed. I had hardly done reckoning them up when two or three bustling men came out and shepherded us all energetically into a long, low room, where some form of agreement was read out to us.

Sailors are naturally and usually careless about the nature of the " articles " they sign, their chief anxiety being to get to sea, and under somebody's charge. But had I been ever so anxious to know what I was going to sign this time, I could not, for the language might as well have been Chinese for all I understood of it. However, I signed and passed on, engaged to go I knew not where, in some ship I did not know even the name of, in which I was to receive I did not know how much, or how little, for my labour, nor how long I was going to be away. " What a young fool ! " I hear somebody say. I quite agree, but there were a good many more in that ship, as in most ships that I have ever sailed in. OUTWARD BOUND. 3 From the time we signed the articles, we were never left to ourselves. Truculent-looking men accompanied us to our several boarding-houses, paid our debts for us, finally bringing us by boat to a ship lying out in the bay.

As we passed under her stern, I read the name Cachalot, of New Bedford ; but as soon as we ranged alongside, I realized that I was booked for the sailor's horror — a cruise in a whaler. Badly as I wanted to get to sea, I had not bargained for this, and would have run some risks to get ashore again ; but they took no chances, so we were all soon aboard. Before going forward, I took a comprehensive glance around, and saw that I was on board of a vessel belonging to a type which has almost disappeared off the face of the waters. A more perfect contrast to the trim-built English clipper-ships that I had been accustomed to I could hardly imagine. She was one of a class cha racterized by sailors as " built by the mile, and cut off in lengths as you want 'em," bow and stern almost alike, masts standing straight as broomsticks, and bowsprit soaring upwards at an angle of about forty-five degrees.

She was as old-fashioned in her rig as in her hull ; but I must not go into the technical differences between rigs, for fear of making myself tedious. Bight in the centre of the deck, occupying a space of about ten feet by eight, was a square erection of brickwork, upon which my wondering gaze rested longest, for I had not the slightest idea what it could be. But I was rudely roused from my meditations by the harsh voice of one of the officers, who shouted, " Naow then, git below an' stow yer dunnage, 'n look lively up agin." I took the broad hint, and shouldering my traps, hurried for ward to the fo'lk'sle, which was below deck. Tumbling down the steep ladder, I entered the gloomy den which was to be for so long my home, finding it fairly packed with my shipmates. A motley crowd they were.

I had been used in English ships to considerable variety of nationality ; but here were gathered, not only the representatives of five or six nations, but 'long-shoremen of all kinds, half of whom had hardly ever set eyes on a ship before ! The whole space was undivided by par tition, but I saw at once that black men and white had separated themselves, the blacks taking the port side and the whites the starboard. Finding a vacant bunk by the dim glimmer of the ancient teapot lamp that hung amidships, giving out as much smoke as light, I hurriedly shifted my coat for a "jumper" or blouse, put on an old cap, and climbed into the fresh air again. For a double reason, even my seasoned head was feeling bad with the villainous reek of the place, and I did not want any of those hard-featured officers on deck to have any cause to complain of my "hanging back."

On board ship, especially American ships, the first requisite for a sailor who wants to be treated properly is to " show willing," any suspicion of slackness being noted im mediately, and the backward one marked accordingly. I had hardly reached the deck when I was confronted by a negro, the biggest I ever saw in my life. He looked me up and down for a moment, then opening his ebony features in a wide smile, he said, " Great snakes ! why, here's a sailor man for sure ! Guess thet's so, ain't it, Johnny ? " I said " yes " very curtly, for I hardly liked his patronizing air ; but he snapped me up short with "yes, sir, when yew speak to me, yew blank limejuicer. I'se de fours mate ob dis yar ship, en my name's Mistah Jones, 'n yew jest freeze OUTWARD BOUND. on to dat ar, ef yew want ter lib long 'n die happy.

See, sonny." I saw, and answered promptly, "I beg your pardon, sir, I didn't know." "Ob cawse yew didn't know, dat's all right, little Britisher ; naow jest skip aloft 'n loose dat fore-taupsle." " Aye, aye, sir," I answered cheerily, springing at once into the fore-rigging and up the ratlines like a monkey, but not too fast to hear him chuckle, " Dat's a smart kiddy, I bet." I had the big sail loose in double quick time, and sung out " All gone, the fore-taupsle," before any of the other sails were adrift. " Loose the to-gantsle and staysles " came up from below in a voice like thunder, and I bounded up higher to my task. On deck I could see a crowd at the windlass heaving up anchor. I said to myself, " They don't waste any time getting this packet away." Evidently they were not anxious to test any of the crew's swimming powers.

They were wise, for had she remained at anchor that night I verily believe some of the poor wretches would have tried to escape. The anchor came aweigh, the sails were sheeted home, and I returned on deck to find the ship gather ing way for the heads, fairly started on her long voyage. What a bear-garden the deck was, to be sure ! The black portion of the crew — Portuguese natives from the Western and Canary Islands — were doing their work all right in a clumsy fashion ; but the farmers, and bakers, and draymen were being driven about merci lessly amid a perfect hurricane of profanity and blows. And right here I must say that, accustomed as I had always been to bad language all my life, what I now heard was a revelation to me. I would not, if I could, attempt to give a sample of it, but it must be under stood that it was incessant throughout the voyage.

No order could be given without it, under the impression, apparently, that the more curses the more speed. Before nightfall we were fairly out to sea, and the ceremony of dividing the crew into watches was gone through. I found myself in the chief mate's or "port " watch (they called it " larboard," a term I had never heard used before, it having long been obsolete in merchant ships), though the huge negro fourth mate seemed none too well pleased that I was not under his command, his being the starboard watch under the second mate. As night fell, the condition of the " greenies," or non sailor portion of the crew, was pitiable. Helpless from sea-sickness, not knowing where to go or what to do, bullied relentlessly by the ruthless petty officers — well, I never felt so sorry for a lot of men in my life.

Glad enough I was to get below into the fo'lk'sle for supper, and a brief rest and respite from that cruelty on deck. A bit of salt junk and a piece of bread, i.e. biscuit, flinty as a pantile, with a pot of something sweetened with "longlick" (molasses), made an apology for a meal, and I turned in. In a very few minutes oblivion came, making me as happy as any man can be in this world. ( T )

Chapter II. Preparing For Action

Tiiio hideous noise always considered nocessary in those ships when calling the watch, roused me effectively at midnight, " eight hells." I hurried ou deck, fully aware that no leisurely ten minutes would be allowed here. "Lay aft the watch," saluted me as I emerged into the keen, strong air, quickening my pace accordingly to whore the mate stood waiting to muster his men. As soon as he saw me, he said, "Can you steer'?" in a mocking tone ; but when I quietly answered, " Yes, sir," his look of astonishmeut was delightful to see. He choked it down, however, and merely telling me to take tho Tvheel, turned forrard roaring frantically for his watch. I had no time to chuckle over what I knew was in store for him, getting those poor greenies collected from their several holes and corners, for on taking the wheel I found a machine under my hands such as I never even heard of before.

The wheel was fixed upon the tiller in such a manner that the whole concern travelled backwards and forwards across the deck in the maddest kind of way. For the first quarter of an hour, in spite of the September chill, tht sweat poured off me in streams. And the course — well, it was not steering, it was sculling; the old bum boat was wobbling all around like a drunken tailor with two left legs. I fairly shook with apprehension lest the mate should come and look in the compass. I had been accustomed to hard words if I did not steer within half a point each way; but here was a "gadget" that worked me to death, the result being a wake like a letter S. Gradually I got the hang of the thing, becoming easier in my mind on my own account. Even that was not an unmixed blessing, for I had now some leisure to listen to the goings-on around the deck.