The History of Sanquhar ... To which is added The Flora and Fauna of the District by Dr. Anstruther Davidson

Front matter

THE HISTORY OF SANQUHAR. r h f. HISTORY OF SANQUHAR nv JAMES BROWN Burgh Assessor Author of the History of the Sanquhar Curling Society I'n WHICH IS ADDED THE FLORA AND FAUNA OF THE DISTRICT By Dr ANSTRUTHER DAVIDSON DUMFRIES: J. ANDERSON & SON EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW : JOHN MENZIES & CO. PRINTED AT THE COURIER AND HERALD OFFICES, DUMFRIES. TO THE MOST NOBLE <n»f $larquc$$ of gutc, garon Œwhton of Jfttityufcnr, $.8., THE LINEAL DESCENDANT OF THE FAMILY WHO SO LONG RULED FROM SANQUHAR CASTLE, THIS VOLUME IS, JBs ]pcrmt86ion, RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. PRE FACE. The feeling has frequently been expressed of late years that a history of Sanquhar would {Drove of no ordinary interest, considering the ancient origin of the town, its standing as one us the old Scottish burghs, its intimate connection through its old Castle and the doughty Crichtons, who ruled there with the most stirring period of our national history, and, at a later period, with the struggles of the Covenanters, aud likewise, the antiquarian and topographical features of the district of which it is the centre.

It is true that a small history of the place was published in 1865 bj* the late Rev. Dr Simpson, but it was defective in various respects, particularly in that no attempt was made to treat of municipal affairs, or of social manners and customs. I waited, however, in the hope that the duty would be under taken by some one nlore experienced in literary work, but there being no appearance of that, and as much valuable information to be derived from oral sources was in danger of being lost, I felt constrained to assume the task. The first difficulty that presented itself was the plan of the book, having to deal as I had with a great mass of heterogeneous materials. No one plan was free from objec tions, and the present was adopted as involving the least confusion. Another difficulty was the extraordinary fatality that seems to have attached to the ancient records of the town and parish.

The Minutes of the Town Council for the first 120 years have all disappeared, and those of the Kirk- Session and other public bodies are likewise defective ; iu this way, much information that would have been invaluable in the compilation of such a history, has been altogether lost. I have further to regret that I was denied ■ access Preface. VIII to certain ancient charters of the Crichtons, recently dis covered at Drumlanrig Castle, but now in the hands of a literary gentleman in Edinburgh, which would probably have thrown some light on the history of that family, and been the means of verifying much that may have been published on doubtful authority. It is, however, my duty to acknowledge, which I now gratefully do, the obligations under which I rest for valuable assistance rendered in the performance of my task — to the family of the late Dr Simpson, for the liberty of making extracts from the history of Sanquhar published by him ; to the representatives of the late Dr Watson, Wanlockhead, and Mr Edmond, schoolmaster, there, for the description of the Wanlockhead Mines ; to Mr Thomas M'Naught, S.S.C., Edinburgh, for searches made in the State Records in Edin burgh ; to Mr Galloway, Inspector of Schools, for the list of derivations of place-names ; to Dr Anstruther Davidson, for the chapter contributed by him on the Flora and Fauna of the district, written during his residence in Sanquhar, thereby supplying an element of interest not often found in a local history ; to Mr J. R. Wilson, Royal Bank, for information on antiquarian matters, and for access to his valuable collection ; and to friends who have proved exceedingly helpful in other departments.

Chapter I

-Topograthy. Boundaries and extent of Parish, 1— Euchan, 2 — Polvaird Loch, 2 — Pamphy Linns, 8 — Eliock Estate and Woods, 12 — Old Kirkbride, 1-t— Enterkiu Pass, 14— Crawick, 20— Mennock, 24— Glendyne, 25 — Wanlockhead, 25— Sanquhar Moor, 26 — Height of principal eminences, 27— Euchan Well, analysis, 27.

Chapter II

-Antiquarian. Saen-Caer, 29— St. Bride's Well, 29— Ryehill Moat, 30— Kemp's Castle, 31 — Black Loch and Lake Dwelling, 32 — Remains of Ancient Strongholds, 33 — Cairns, 34 —The Deil's or Picts' Dyke, 34 — Chapel-yard of Dalpeddar, 35— Domestic Architecture, 35 — Sanquhar Old Cross, 36 — List of Antiquarian Relics, 36.

Chapter III

— Early History. Early Settlers: Ancient British, Roman, Irish, &c, 39 — The Edgars, 41 — The Norman Colonisation, 42 — The Rosses of Ryehill, 43 — The Refugee Flemings, 45. Origin of name of Sanquhar, 47 — Capture of Sanquhar Castle, 49 —The Black Douglas, 50— The Castle deer, 51 -The Feudal System, 52— Sanquhar Hospital, 53— Sanquhar Castle, description of, 54.

Chapter IV

— The Crichtons. Sir Robert Crichton, Lord of Sanquhar, made Coroner of Nithsdale, 64 — Sheriff of Dumfries, 65 - Battle between the Crichtons and the Maxwells, 69— Raid by the Johnstones of Annandale, 72 — Appeal of the Sanquhar Widows to the King. 74 — The Hamiltons of Sanquhar, 75— Patrick M'Crerick, 76— Feud between Crichton and Sir Robert Dalziel of Eliock, 77— Lord Sanquhar's Crime, 79 — His Execution at Westminster, 80 — b Contents. X Page 96 108 140 Visit of King James to Sanquhar Castle, 83— Sale of the Barony to Lord Queensberry, 85— Summoning of the Clans, Old Ballad, 87— Relics of the Crichtons, 92.

Chapter V

— The Ei.liock Family. Robert Crichton, Lord Elliock, 96 - The Admirable Crichton, 97— The Dalyells of Elliock, 99-The Veitches, 100— Origin of the Veitch Family, 101— Feud between the Veitches and the Tweedies, 102— James Veitch, Lord Elliock, 104— The estate entailed, 105— Sheriff Veitch, 105- Elliock House, 106.

Chapter VI

— The Covenanters. The National Covenant, 108— The Solemn League and Covenant, 109 -The " Canterbury " of the Covenanters, 1 14- The First Sanquhar Declaration by Cameron, 115— Renwick's Declaration, 117 — James Hyslop, poet, brief sketch of his life, 118 — The Cameronian's Dream, 119 — Selections from the Traditions of the Covenanters, 121 — James Kirkwood, curate, 136 — Cameron Demonstration at Sanquhar, 142— Cameron Monument, 147.

Chapter VII

— Municipal. Conditions essential to the creation of a free Burgh Royal : The StornawayCase, 119 — The First Convention of Scottish Burghs, 151 — Functions of the Convention, 153 — Sanquhar Charter, 155 — Original Sett or Constitution of the Burgh, 159 — Admission to the Convention, 160 — Privileges and Obligations of Burghs, 161 — Rights of Burgesses, 163— Condition of the Burgh in the 17th century, 165 — Qualification of Commissioners to the Convention, 167 — George Irving, Commissioner, for Sanquhar, 168. First Council Minute Book, 169 —Boundaries of the Burgh, 170. Thc Common Lands : Pasturage of, 171 — Cultivation of, 172 — "The Joggs," 173 — Revenue from lands, 175. Coal : Lease of Coal on Larsbracs, 175— Working of Coal on thc Muir, 176 — Revenues therefrom, 177— Division of the Muir Lands, 178.

Parliamentary Representation, 180. Town Council, Election of, 183— Qualification of Members, 18G— Non-resident Members, 187 — Commissioner to the General Assembly, 188— Dean of Guild, 190— Pitt or Boundary Stones, ( 'llll/i'llts. XI Page 253 191— Birleymen, 191— Revenues : Table of Customs, 191 — Market Dues, 192— Stent and Teind, 193— Burgess' Fees, 193 — Stallangers, 193— The Custom Question, 193— The Circus horse case, 194 — Abolition of Customs, 196. Powers of Magistrates: Licences, 197— Public Morals, 198— Burgh Fiscal, 199— The Jailor, 199— Constables, 199— Poaching, 200 — Smuggling, 200 — Brieves of Chancery, 201 — Appointment of Schoolmaster, 203 — Paving of the Streets, 203 — Management of Roads, 204 — Sanquhar Lamb and Wool Market, 207— Pork Market, 208— Education, 20S. The Town Clerk : John Crichton, his struggle with the Council, 210 — His resignation, 211.

The Burgh Officer : His Duties and Salary, 213— Notable holders of the office : William Kellock, 214 — Robert Dargavel, 215 — Sergeant Thomson, 215— James Black, 216. Celebrations : King's Birthday, quaint proclamation, 218 — Trades Election, 220 — The Riding of the Marches ; Captain Scott, 221— Town Council Annual Election, 222. Dean of Guild (formerly Provost) Robert Whigham, 224— His Rivalry with Provost Otto, 225. Lighting of the Streets, 226 — William Broom and Thomas Rae and their Contentions, 227 — J. W. Macqueen, Town Clerk, 227 — Freedom of Burgh presented to the Duke of Buccleuch, 231 — Honorary Burgesses, 232 — New Clock and Bell for Town Hall, 232-Loss of the Burgh Charter, 233-Search for, 234 — A New Charter obtained from Court of Session, 235 — Litigation with Duke of Buccleuch, 236.

Sanitary Measures, 237 — Boring for Coal on the Muir, 237 — Draining of Green Loch, 238. New Public Hall, 240-Fire-Hose, 241-Adoption of thc Police Act, 242. Building Facilities : Deputation to the Duke of Buccleuch, 242 — Building Society, 243. The Council House, Provost Abraham Crichton, 245 — The Jail, 246— Escapades of Prisoners, 246 — Fire in the Jail : Henry Wright, 248-The Old Smithy : " The Convener," 249. Sanquhar Bridge : Act of Scottish Parliament for Maintenance, 250— Flight of Queen Mary, 251— Footbridge, 252— New Bridge, 25*2.

Chapter VIII

— Social History. Powers of the Feudal Barons, 253— Fight at the Moss of Knockonie, 254 — The Barons, 255 — Condition of Dumfriesshire in 1704, 256— The Rebellions of 1715 and 1745, 256— The Sanquhar Contents. XII Page 320 329 Men under Provost Abraham Crichton, 258— Prince Charlie's Retreat, 258— Prince Charlie's Drum, 260. Abolition of Heritable Jurisdictions and its effects, 261 — The effects of the Union, 263— Development of Manufactures, 263 — Condition of the People : their diet, times of scarcity, 264. Connection of the Poet Burns with the Town, 266— With Johnston of Clackleith, Rigg of Crawick Forge, aud Provost Edward Whigham, 266. The Continental War : French Prisoners, 269. The Dry Year of 1826 and the great Snowstorm of 1827, 270— Stage-Coaches, 271 — William Cunningham's Walking Feat, 272 — The Resurrectionist Scare, 272.

The Reform Bill Demonstration, 273. Folk-lore : Benjamin Robison (Ben) and other Characters, 273 Threatened Visitation of Cholera : Measures to ward off, 280 — The Long Frost, 281. The Making of the Railway : Disturbances by the navvies and collision with the populace, 282 — Introduction of Gas, 283 — Reading Room, 284 — Dalkeith Terrace constructed, 284 — The Pump Well, 284— Gravitation Water Supply, 285— The Volunteer Movement, 285 — Mr Ewart, M.P. , and his opponent, Mr Hannay, 2S6 — Earl of Dalkeith's majority, Celebration of, 286 — Visit of the Prince and Princess of Wales, 286— Coining of age of Lord Eskdaill, 287— The Queen's Jubilee, 288. Effects of the Railway on the social habits and customs of the people, 289— Emigration, 289— Former Modes of Travelling, 290— Fairs and their Accompaniments, 292 — Obsolete Trades, 296 — Dissemination of News, 29S. Travelling Circuses : Reminiscences of Mr Ord, 301 — Amateur Theatricals: Charlie MTver and " The Button," 308 — Failure of Trade, 311 — Practices of Trading, 311— Depopulation of the District, 313 — Dress of the People, 317 — Social Effects of thc Railway, 319.

Chapter IX

— Curling. Institution of the Curling Society, 320— The Curlers' Word and Grip, 321 — Extracts from Society's Minutes and Curling Stories, 323.

Chapter X

— Industries, Agriculture : Condition of, in last century, 329 — Highland Society Established, 330 — Public Spirit of Duke Charles, 331 — The "Breaking of thc Tacks," 333— Turnip Cultivation introduced, Contents. xiii. Page 371 394 334— Lint Cultivation aud Manufacture, 334 — Introduction of Tile-Draining and Liming, 335 — Great Rise in Prices of Agri cultural Produce, 336 — Improvement of Cattle : Introduction of Ayrshires and of Clydesdale Horses, 337 — The "good Duke " and Mr J. Gilchrist-Clark, 33***. Miniug : Early Mining, Coal in Lime of old Castle Walls, 339 — Old Workings near town, 340— Lease of the Duke's Minerals to Mr Barker, 341 — Coal-pits formerly worked, 342— Coal Traffic by Road, and its effect on the trade of the town, 343 — Recent Boring Operations and present prospects, 346 — Description of the Coal-field, 348.

Weaving : Early Methods, 351— The Spinning Wheel, 353— The Tailor " whipping the cat " and the Pedlar on his rounds, 354 — Introduction of Cotton, 356— Condition of the Weavers, 357 — Their Characteristics, 357 — The Fabrics worked, 359 — Litroduction of the Power-Loom and consequent decay of Hand-Loom Weaving, 360 — Carpet Weaving at Crawick Mill —The Carpet Company, 363— Woollen Mills, 365. Miscellaneous: Brickmaking, 367 — Forging, 368 — Engineering, 370.

CHAPTER XL

— Ecclesiastical. Observance of the Sabbath in early times, 371 — Church Regulations, 372 — System of Catechising, 374 — Public Morals and Religious Observances, 375. The Sacrament : Manner of Celebration, 375 — Thc abuses that arose in connection therewith — Burns and the Ecclesiastical Authorities, 379 — The Tent Preachings, 381 — " Haudin' " the Sanquhar Sacrament, 382. List of Parish Ministers, 383— The Manse, 386— The Parish Church, 387— South U.P. Church, 388— North U.P. Church, 390— The Free Church, 391— The E.U. Church, 392— Baptists —Mission Hall, 393.

Chapter XII

— Parochial Economy-. Registers : The Old Parochial Register, 394— Population of the Parish, 395— Vital Statistics, 396. Education : Provisions for, 396 — Educational Endowments Commissioners' Scheme for Administration of the Crichton Trust, 398— Re-organisation ofthe School, 398- -Schools at Wanlockhead and Mennock, 400— Notable Teachers : James Orr, 400 — James Laurie, 406. c Contents. XIV Page 413 The Poor ■ Statutory Provision for, 408 — The M'Adam Bequest, 408.

Chapter XIII

-Wanlockhead. Origin of Village, 413 — Social Customs, 413 — Social Economy, 414 — Steam Navigation, 415— Recreations of Miners, 419 — Local Institutions, 420 -The Established Church, 421— The Free Chuich, 422. The Mines : Account of, 424 The Flora and Fauna of the District ... ... ... ... 451 Appendices

Chapter I

Topography. |j^g| ANQUHAR is situated on the left bank of the Nith, Xl™ twenty-six miles north-west of Dumfries. The y^y Parish is eighteen miles in length, by five miles in JjL breadth, and embraces an area of above sixty-one A sclliare miles. The Nith, which takes its rise in Ayrshire, a few miles above New Cumnock, passes into Dumfriesshire at a point eight miles north-west of Sanquhar, by an opening in the chain of hills which skirts the northern boundary of the county, and terminates in Corsancone, the hills on the west side of the valley being linked with the great Galloway range. Having traversed the parish of Kirkconnel for a distance of seven miles, the river enters the parish of Sanquhar at the point where it is joined by Crawick. This stream forms the boundary between the two parishes on the east side of the valley, while on the west they are divided by Kello, which flows into Nith two miles higher.

On the right bank the ground rises gradually to a range of hills which runs parallel to the course of the river. These hills are very uniform in height, and are smooth and green to their summits. They contain two principal eminences, the Black Lorg, 2890, and Cairnkinnow, 1813 feet in height. At the back of the range, and overlooking Scaur, is the tremendous precipice of Glenwhargen, rising almost perpendicularly to the height of about 1000 feet. The Black Lorg stands at the north-west corner of the county. Forming, as it does, the water-shed of this region, the sources of several streams are to be found here, giving rise to the rhyme — " Euchan, Scaur, Kello, and Ken A' rise oot o' ae wee hill-en'." Kello, as has been said, forms the boundary between Sanquhar and Kirkconnel, while Euchan, taking a more southerly course, drains the west side of Sanquhar parish, and falls into Nith just opposite the town.

Near the head of Euchan there is on the summit of the hill above Glenglass, Polvaird Loch, a sheet of water a little over three acres in extent, and unique both in its situation and appearance. It is situated on the top of a hill 1800 feet above sea-level. It is in shape a parallelogram, not quite rectangular, two of the opposite corners being drawn out on the line of the diagonal. Its sides are so regular as to give the impression of its having been the work of man, but it is one of the mountain-tarns, which are so common a feature of Scottish scenery. This loch has no surface feeder except the rainfall which may find its way into the little basin in which it lies. It is, however, undoubtedly fed by springs, as is evidenced by the fact that, notwithstanding its great elevation, it is never quite frozen over even in the severest winter.

Nor had it any natural overflow except what trickled through some marshy ground on the north-west side into the head of Polvaird Burn, which flows down to Euchan, till some years ao*o a ditch was dug connecting it with the burn, whereby its depth was reduced and its area somewhat restricted. This was done by the then tenant of the farm of Barr, on which the loch lies, on account of his having suffered the loss of a sheep by drowning in its waters. Polvaird contains very few fish. Efforts have been made from time to time to stock it with trout, a number having been transferred from the neighbouring Euchan, but they do not appear to thrive ; at all events, the angler's art is plied with scant success. There are several rude curling-stones, with primi- // istury us Sanquhar. 3 tive handles, lying on its banks ; and to prevent the credulous antiquary of a future time from constructing some wonderful theory on the existence of these stones, it may be explained that they were carried up by the family of one of the shepherds on Euchan water, in order that they might have the opportunity of enjoying Scotland's " roaring game " in the only possible place in this region.

Towards the end of last century, this country-side was robbed of much of its natural beauty by the despicable policy of the last Duke of Queensberry. He had no issue, and, it is supposed, to spite the collateral branch of the family who were to succeed him, doomed to destruction the woods on the estate. It does seem that the Duke had been auimated by some such malicious, spiteful motive, for had the raising of money merely been his object, he would have confined the fell work of destruction to the enclosed woods and plantations, which were of some commercial value, whereas we find that not even the bonnie glens were spared, but that they were robbed of their adornment of natural wood. It was at this time that one of the sides of the Euchan was cleared, but, fortunately, the other had not been overtaken when the old Duke's death occurred, and then the work was promptly put an end to.

The following verses were found written on a window-shutter of a small inn on the banks of the Nith soon after this district, one of the finest in the south of Scotland, had been thus disfigured to gratify an unworthy passion. It is not unlikely that they were written, as has been supposed, by Burns, as he was given to scribbling down his effusions in such places : — " As on the banks of wandering Nith Ae smiling morn I strayed, And traced its bonnie howes and haughs, Where linties sang and lambkins played, I sat me down upon a craig, And drank my fill o' fancy's dream, When, from the eddying pool below, Up rose the genius of thc stream. Dark, like the frowning rock, his brow, And troubled, like his wintry wave, And deep, as sighs the boding wind Among his caves, the sighs he gave : ' And cam' ye here, my son,' he cried, ' To wander in my birken shade ?

To muse some favourite Scottish theme, Or sing some favourite Scottish maid ? There was a time, it's nae lang syne, Ye might hae seen me in my pride ; When a' my weel-clad banks could see Their woody pictures in my tide ; When hanging beech and spreading elms Shaded my streams sae clear and cool, And stately oaks their twisted arms Threw broad and dark across the pool. When, glittering through the trees, appeared The wee white cot aboon the mill, And peaceful rose its ingle reek That slowly curling clamb the hill. But now the cot is bare and cauld, It's branchy shelter's lost and gane, And scarce a stinted birch is left To shiver in the blast its lane. ' ' Alas,' said I, ' what wofu' chance Has tyned ye o' your stately trees ? Has laid your rocky bosom bare ? Has stripped the cleading aff your braes ?

Was it the bitter eastern blast That scatters blight in early spring ? Or was't the wil' fire scorched their boughs, Or canker-worm wi' secret sting ?' ' Nae eastern blast,' the sprite replied ; It blaws nae here sae fierce and fell ; And on my dry and halesome banks Nae canker-worms get leave to dwell. Man ! cruel Man !' thc genius sighed, As through the cliffs he sank him down, * The worm that gnawed my bonnie trees — That reptile wears a Ducal Crown. ' " In spite, however, of the extent to which Euchan was thus of much of its beauty, it is a bonnie glen. A good disrobed road runs along* almost its entire length, and no pleasanter walk on a summer day could be desired. It is necessary to offer a word of caution to visitors by informing them that this glen is infested with adders. These snakes are frequently to be seen basking themselves on the sunny brae which forms the left bank of the stream.

They measure about 18 inches and even more iu length. The careless walker might readily step ou one of them, for in parts the ground is covered with deep heather, but this would be a case of " caught napping," for the adder at the sound of human footstep glides rapidly out of sight. He will not stand his ground, far less offer attack, unless he be come upon unexpectedly and find his retreat cut off. But the danger is more imaginary than real, for there is no record of any accident through adder-bite there. There is excellent trout fishing in the tributaries of the Nith, and particularly in Euchan. During last year, up to the month of June, oue angler alone caught over one hundred dozen of fair size, all the smaller being returned to the water. There is nothing particularly noteworthy about the hills in tbe upper part of Euchan glen, unless it be what is known as the Banyan Crag, a little above the Bank dyke.

This Crag presents a bold, precipitous front several hundred feet in height. While the water of Crawick and Mennock is remarkably clear and limpid, Euchan, particularly when it is in flood, pours down a volume of water embrowned with peat, which forms dark, mysterious pools, and shews a fine rich colour where it tosses impetuously over its rocky bed. For two miles above its outlet the course of this stream is most picturesque. Ceasing at the farm-house of Old Banto flow, as it has done from its source, in the open, it enters between walls of rock, through which it has, in the course of ages, worn a deep channel, washing the whinstone perfectly smooth, and into the most fantastic shapes. One cascade after another, with dark, deep narrow pools between, forms a most striking and charming picture.

When in flood the Euchan here roars and thunders like a miniature Niagara, and a peep of the " Deil's Dungeon " — for so this part is named — can only be obtained from one point or another of the overhanging crag ; but on a summer day, when the volume of water is small in comparison, a splendid view of the " Dungeon " can be obtained by descending to the bed of the stream by a steep narrow path at the point where that dark gruesome gullet ceases. Here the stream parts into two, leaving a spacious level rock in the centre quite dry. This rock can be easily enough reached from either side by creeping along the bank till where the parted stream is at the narrowest, and a short step lands one safely. It is well worth the trouble of the descent. The rocks rise up in huge masses on either side, and are crowned with trees, which swing their arms over the overhanging ledge.

Looking up, one sees the water sweep round a bend, which forms the limit of the view, turning the whole into a sort of chamber. It tumbles over a large rock, which still obstructs its progress, and theu sweeps down as if it would carry one away, but presently, beiug no longer fretted by any barrier, it fiuds ample room for itself in a dark pool, and then parting, it glides swiftly and silently past in two black narrow channels. But for the difficulty of access this would form an admirable place for a pic-nic. A little distance below the " Deil's Dungeon" the stream again passes through a long channel of rock not more than three or four feet wide, which bears the name of " The Lover's Loup." The name is probably associated with a long forgotten tradition ; as it is, the leap across, though not a great one, tries the nerve of him who jierforms it, for the water, dark as Erebus and of profouud depth, fascinates the eye, and is apt to render thc head giddy.

Immediately under " Thc Lover's Loup " we come to what are known as the " Drappin' Linns," where the freestone first makes its appearance. These Linns are on the east side ofthe stream where the soft rock towers up to a height of forty feet or so and overhangs the river bed in a picturesque manner ; the name which it has received being derived from the water which continually drips from the roof of this cave-like recess. The footpath up the bank of the stream runs over the top of the linns on a narrowledge, and the trepidation, caused as one passes along this dangerous path at the sight of the overhanging precipice, would be increased were it known, as it is not to every one, that the whole mass has such an apparently slender hold. The course ofthe water now reveals the change that has taken place in the rock strata.

It runs over beds of freestone, and traces of the coal measures become discernible. The rock on the edge of the field is very soft in texture, yielding readily to the influence of the waters, by which it is worked into the most curious forms, as, for example, at tbe " Drappin' Linns " above mentioned, and the " Pamphy Linns," a short distance across the moor. The Falls of Euchan, a little farther down, present a face of freestone, fifteen or twenty feet thick ; while a short distance down stream, the rock is found very hard and compact. The colour being a very light grey, it has been quarried on an extensive scale for building purposes. From it the material for the new bridge over the Nith, built iu 18.55, was obtained. Just opposite Euchan Falls, on the west side, tradition says there was once a waulk-mill.

There are certainly traces of what appears to have been a mill-race, whereby the water had been diverted for some industrial purpose; Near tbe same place, and on the same bank, are the remains of a cottage or cottages, probably in connection with the mill. In the glen of Euchan there are the ruins of quite a number of houses, but this is an example only of what is to be seen in all directions, and affords proof of the extent to which depopulation has been carried on in our country districts. Between the Falls and the quarry stands an object of anti quarian interest. In the angle formed by the junction of the Barr Burn with Euchan is a ridge, pretty steep on the Barr Burn side, and perfectly inaccessible from the Euchan, the rocks rising there like a wall. A position like this, with exceptional means of defence of a natural kind, could not escape the eye of the dwellers of that early time, and so we find that it was once a stronghold bearing the name of Kemp's Castle.

A more detailed description of this spot will be found in the chapter on the antiquities of the district. On the Barr Burn are the " Pamphy Linns " — curious and interesting, but not so imposing as the name by which they have been dignified would lead one to expect. They are, however, well worth a visit. There being no road up the burn, the visitor must proceed by the Barr and Barr Moor house. Passing round behind the latter one must strike straight across the field towards the wood in front, where a gate in the dyke gives him entrance to the wood, through which the burn here pursues its course. The Linns are formed by the action, on the soft freestone, of the two small burns, which at the foot join to form the Barr Burn, by which it has been carved into the most grotesque forms. The rock lies near the surface, and the burn having washed away its slight covering of soil has worn a channel narrow and ever deepening.