Tourist Rambles in the Northern and Midland Counties. Second series

Front matter

■ ■ ■ ■ I ■ ■ ■ I ■ I I m ■ &auxht gambits. TOURIST RAMBLES IN Cjie flor%rn antr gliblantr Counties, SECOND SERIES, By J . BROWN, Author of " Severus," "A Reverie," and other Poems. " 0 happy England, blest beyond compare ! How busy are thy cities ! swarthy toil Has won thee great pre-eminence, and gained Thy sons the major commerce of the world. How smiling are thy woodlands, and how grand The mighty oaks of Sherwood proudly rear Their giant trunks beneath the sunlit sky ! Thy streams and dales are charming ; and sweet winds Impel the perfumed air through sylvan glades, Where palaces o'erlook vast emerald plains, And the high peaks of everlasting hills." LONDON : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO. YORK: J. SAMPSON & E. H. PICKERING 1885. §£&kaii>b lo EDWIN WADE, Esq., J.P., President ; ALDERMAN TERRY, J. P., Treasurer; R. W. ANDERSON, Esq., Hon. Sec. ; AND THE MEMBERS or the YORK TOURIST SOCIETY, BY THE AUTHOR.

Preface

The success which has of late years attended the delightful excursions of the York Tourist Society, and the favour bestowed upon the efforts of the Author, who has occasionally written papers illustrative of some of the most interesting of its tours, has induced him to publish a secono series, which it is hoped will meet with similar approbation from the members as was gained by the preceding volume. In addition to those relating to the Society will be found an introductory article on "Tours," a walk from Richmond in Yorkshire, to Appleby in West moreland, and at the end of the volume a few miscellaneous papers on topics of kindred interest. There will also be found a pleasing account of an excursion to Kenilworth, Warwick, and Stratford-on-Avon, written by the Hon. Sec, Mr. R. W. Anderson, and edited by the Author of this volume, which will be read with interest, and remain as a memorial of the many years of anxious, yet pleasant labour and solicitude, he has devoted to the successful carrying out of the excursions of the York Tourist Society.

York, June 1st, 1885. CONTENTS. Page. 1. Introductory — Article on Tours ... ... ... 1 2. Kenilworth Castle, Warwick Castle, and Stratford-on-Avon ... ... ... ... ... ... 7 3. A Walking Tour in Richmondshire, Teesdale, The Westmoreland Fells, and Eden Valley ... 22 4. Whitby, St. Hilda's Abbey, and Mulgrave Woods and Castle 90 5. Sprotborough, Conisbrough Castle, Roche Abbey, and Tickhill Castle 107 6. Hartlepool and Castle Eden Dene ... ... ... 122 7. The Dukeries — Sherwood Forest, Clumber Park, Thoresby House, and Welbeck Abbey ... ... 137 8. Ingleborough Cave, Chapel-le-Dale, and Weathercote Cavern and Waterfall ... ... ... 156 9. Leicestershire — Belvoir Castle ... ... ... 171 10. Derbyshire — Dovedale ... ... ... ... ... 180 11. Bedale and Hornby Castle ... ... ... ... 188 12. Richmond, Aske Hall, and Easby Abbey 210 13.

Hardwicke Hall and Bolsover Castle ... ... 221 14. Rothbury, Cragside, Alnwick Castle, and Warkworth Castle and Hermitage ... ... ... 234 MISCELLANEOUS. 15. Lord Byron's "Childe Harold" 263 16. York Church Bells and Founders ... ... ... 275 17. Thornton Abbey and Lord Albemarle ... ... 280 18. Reviews of Tourist Rambles... ... TOURIST RAMBLES. INTRODUCTORY— ON TOURS. A Leading Article contributed to the Yorkshire Gazette, and published Sept. yd, 1884. (^Fjf^HIS is the age of Tours ; all the world is Sv#!-<k on move> anc*- sight-seeing is reduced to a science. In the olden times locomotion was difficult, roads were bad, and in addition to the ordinary risks of travel, there were dangers from the untutored and painted savage, who frequently increased his scanty wardrobe at the expense of the unhappy wight who unfortunately happened to fall within his clutches.

In the feudal ages and in later periods, the chances of accomplish ing a long journey were exceedingly remote, except under the protection of an armed escort, as there were always predatory persons, who, like thousands in our own times, had souls who abhorred work, and, always when they could, preyed and lived upon the industry of others. B It has also been said that formerly, when any one through urgent necessity had the temerity to journey from York to London, it was customary to make a will, as the time taken and the risks and hazards were far more serious than a voyage now is round the world, or a cruise in the Arctic regions. Going back to the New Testament times, we have recorded the voyage of St. Paul from the Syrian Coast through the Eastern Archipelago to Rome, and can easily imagine its tediousness, and realise the terrors and dangers that were encountered, including starvation, stripes and shipwreck.

In the primitive times of navigation, without com pass and the aids of modern science, and with no guide but the stars, it was rare that the navigator lost sight of land, as all beyond was wrapt in mystery, and the unknown was pictured as the abode of monstrous forms and the incar nation of evil. These times have happily passed away, light has dawned, the mists of superstition have departed, and the spirit of progress and adventure has gone boldly forth to discover and colonise new worlds, and so add to the wealth, happiness and prosperity of mankind. The discovery of the power of steam, gas, and electricity as motive agents, and their useful properties for producing artificial sunlight, has revolutionised the world, and the latter has especially annihilated time and space, so that what occurs on the opposite side of the globe is shortly known to the denizens 'of the other, and Ariel's apparently absurd promise, in Shakespere's play of " The Tempest," to " put a girdle round about the earth in forty min utes," has been literally and practically fulfilled.

With these aids to locomotion, the whole world has changed, habits and customs of unknown antiquity have totally disappeared, and manu factures, trade and commerce have penetrated the ends of the earth, and undoubtedly changed for good the future destinies of man. The leisured or the monied classes are no longer confined to a limited area in search of pleasure or for the restoration of health, as Messrs. Cook & Son of Tourist fame, and other imita tive persons, now advertise excursions into distant regions, and even voyages round the world, for the satisfying oi curiosity, the obtaining of knowledge, or simply for change of scene and ordinary recreation. These voyages also, either by land or water, are conducted on such perfect principles, that every provision is made for the comfort of the Tourists, just as though they were on board their own yatchs, or at their own homes.

Even in our own columns are occasionally seen special announce ments of voyages to Norway or the Shetland Islands, in our Northern Seas, the " Ultima Thule" of the Romans, and these give delight to hundreds, of our Countrymen who can spare a short time in the autumn season for a grand holiday, which would be utterly unattainable except for the spirit of combination and enterprise which is a special and distinguishing feature of this remarkable age. Our readers also will lately have observed an advertisement of an attractive character, announcing a " Cruise in Summer Seas," in a magnificent steam yatch, whence those who join in it will be taken from port to port, and in sunny climes, the winter will be spent and robbed of its trying and sometimes arctic terrors. These are inducements to travel which of course can only be indulged in by the rich, who have leisure, means and opportunity to enjoy it; but there are other sources of pleasure that can be joined in by persons of more limited means, who can spare a day or two now and then, which not only add to their knowledge and happiness, but give them ideas of the wealth of beauty of their own country in romantic scenery that could not otherwise be obtained.

It is frequently said, and the observation is a truism, that many persons who habitually travel abroad, who go on the " grand tour," or frequent the choice places of continental fashion, as a rule, know precious little of the manifold and superior beauties of their own country. Even in York, how many have acquainted themselves with the numerous places of historic renown, or the grand scenery that may be found within the limits of their own county ? What may be said of Yorkshire may also be illustrated in the neighbouring lake districts of Cumberland and Westmoreland, the caves and rivers of Derbyshire, and the unrivalled woodland glades of the Forest of Sherwood, in the county of Nottingham. These pleasures and these delights can and have been enjoyed through the instru mentality of the "York Tourist Society," which has been in existence for more than twenty years.

During that period, nearly every place of interest in the Midland and Northern Counties has been visited, including Castles and Abbeys ; Mansions, Parks and Cathedrals; Lakes and Waterfalls; and wherever rock, wood or water give a charm or add a grace to wild, picturesque, or sylvan scenery. These excursions of this unique society to the most charming or romantic districts within ioo miles of the old City, have been conducted in such a manner, that the system has been reduced to a science, and the greatest amount of pleasure has been obtained at a minimum of trouble, and what is also of great consideration, a moderate amount of cost. It is also gratifying to know that special favours have from time to time been conferred upon its members, by many places and mansions being opened for their inspection, to which the ordinary tourist and other associations have not had access.

This society has obtained, after many years, a deservedly honourable position, and its excursions are well patronised, so that hundreds of our citizens, including many ladies, have been gratified and pleased at visiting some of the most interesting parts of England, and we have frequently had the honour of publishing in our columns long descriptive and graphic accounts of those remarkable places, which must have pleased the general public, and added immensely to the interest of those who had the good fortune to join in them. We have, therefore, good reason, and our numerous readers will sincerely join us, in wishing success and prosperity to the York Tourist Society. September, 1884. No. 2. •g-nmU-roortlT ©astlc, 5UHavn>tck Castle, anb gftvatfovbon -gluon. Edited from notes by R. W. Anderson, Esq., the Hon. Sec, and published in the Yorkshire Chronicle, August, 1876.

"N\(f|OTICE having been sent by circular that MSS! she Excursion to Leamington, Kenilworth, Warwick, Birmingham, and Stratford-on-Avon would be made on Wednesday, the 19th of July, several members of the York Tourist Society assembled at the Railway Station at the time indicated. All being ready, the party started at 3-25 p.m. for Leamington, via Normanton, Sheffield, Trent, Leicester, Rugby and Coventry, and arriving at Leamington at 9-48 p.m., took up their quarters at the Crown Hotel as per previous arrangement. Having disposed of the dust collected on the road, and partaken of tea, which after so long a journey was very accep table, a part of the town was explored by gaslight. On our return to the hotel, a pleasant evening was spent with ■ several gentlemen interested in agriculture, who were exhibitors at the Royal Agricultural Show held at Birmingham.

On . the following morning, having breakfasted early, our party hastily surveyed the town of Leamington, which derives its name from the river Learn. It was formerly an obscure hamlet, consisting only of a few cottages, and originally belonged to the Priory of Kenilworth. From the celebrity of its mineral springs, it has risen with unprecedented rapidity into a large and populous town, which from the spaciousness and cleanliness of its streets, the elegance of its houses, and the beauty and interest of the surrounding scenery, is not excelled by any watering place in the Kingdom. The outskirts of the town are studded with beautiful detached residences, with grounds tastefully laid out, and the public pleasure gardens by the river add much to the charm of this favourite and attractive locality.

At 9 a.m., carriages being ready, the party drove off to Kenilworth, passing through some of the principal streets, and crossing the bridges over the Learn and Avon on the route. On our arriving at Kenilworth, the Castle, im mortalized by Sir Walter Scott, was at once visited ; its noble and considerable ruins, which cover a large area, bring to the mind the feudal glories and regal pomp of former ages. The castle stands on the brow of a hill, and from its summit there is a very beautiful and commanding view of the surrounding country. It is stated that after the conquest, Henry the First bestowed the manor of Kenilworth upon Geoffrey de Clinton, his treasurer and chamber lain, who erected the earlier portion of the stately Castle, by whose magnificent and picturesque remains the town is principally distinguished.

This Castle was sold by his grandson to Henry the Third, and was greatly enlarged and strongly fortified by Simon de Montford, to whom that monarch gave it as a marriage portion with his sister Eleanor. Simon de Montford, afterwards rebelling against his sovereign, and joining the discontented barons who had taken up arms against the King, took that monarch prisoner at the battle of Lewes, but was afterwards defeated and slain by Prince Edward, at the battle of Evesham. The Castle again falling into the hands of the King, he bestowed it upon his younger son, Edward, who was afterwards created Earl of Leicester. In the seventh year oi the reign of Edward the first, the Earl of Leicester held a splendid tournament here, at which one hundred knights and as many ladies assisted. Edward the Second having been taken prisoner by the Earl of Lancaster, was for a time confined here.

In the reign of Edward the Third the Castle was again enlarged, and in that of Richard the Second, many additional buildings were erected by John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, whose son becoming King, it once more reverted to the Crown. In later times, Queen Elizabeth gave it to her favourite courtier, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who is said to have expended an enormous sum of money in enlarging and embellishing it, and in entertaining the Queen for seventeen days with the most splendid pageants and costly magnificence. The expense of those sumptuous entertainments, which included every variety of luxurious gratification, was not less than each day. During the Civil war in the reign of Charles the First, Kenilworth fell into the hands of that arch-enemy of castles, Oliver Cromwell, who put an end for ever to the grand doings which had been held therein at various times.

He thoroughly dis mantled it, and gave it up to his soldiery, who plundered it of everything valuable. They destroyed the walls, laid waste the park and drained the lake, and afterwards divided the manor amongst themselves into small farms, and left the castle in a sad state of wanton ruin and desolation. The present noble owner, the Earl of Clarendon, is, however, preserving the ruins from further dilapidation. After devoting as much time as possible to Kenilworth Castle, and picturing to ourselves the incidents relating to Amy Robsart, Queen Elizabeth, and the Earl of Leicester, so grap hically described by Sir Walter Scott, who has made it classic ground, and ever to be remembered in the future in connection with his grand romance of Kenilworth, we adjourned for necessary refreshments to the hostelry, near the entrance gates, which no doubt has been the scene of many a revelry in ancient times, similar to those described by the poet Chaucer at quaint old inns on a pilgrimage to Beckitt's Shrine at the Cathedral of Canterbury.

After a short sojourn, Kenilworth was left in order to pass the remainder of the day at the Royal Agricultural Show at Birmingham, twenty-one miles distant. On arriving at the show ground, shortly after noon, we found an admirable dis play of agricultural implements and machinery, the latter being mostly in motion by the aid of steam power. The horses, cattle, sheep and pigs there exhibited were, no doubt, the finest to be found in England, and great crowds surrounded the various enclosures, expressing their admiration and closely criticising, more especially, the merits of the equine species. Yorkshire, we think, may be particularly congratulated upon the many prizes that its eminent stock breeders won for the county of broad acres. After spending a few hours in this interesting exhibition, where all the arrangements were of a most admirable character, our party left the great and important town of Birmingham, whose celebrity as the capital of the hardware industry is of world-wide fame, and whose streets and public buildings are a credit to the enterprise and good taste of its merchants and its municipality.

On arriving again at Leamington, an excellent dinner was served by our host of the Crown, and as many places of great interest were to be seen on the morrow, early to bed was the order of the night, as it always should be with all good members of the York Tourist Society. On Friday morning at nine, we left Leamington behind us, with a heavy day's work and programme to fulfil, and after a short but pretty drive, arrived at the ancient county town of Warwick, which is said to have been a British settlement of considerable importance prior to the Roman invasion. It is related that, after its devastation by the frequent incursions of the Picts, it was rebuilt by Caractacus, on whose defeat by Claudius in the year 50, the Romans, in order to secure their conquests in that part of Britain, erected several fortresses on the Severn and Avon, of which Warwick Castle was one, and one of the principal objects of the Tourist's visit.

During the great civil war in the time of Charles the First, Robert Greville, Lord Brooke, embraced the cause of the Parliament, and defended the Castle against the King ; the Royalists, after fourteen days, being compelled to abandon the siege. There is little doubt had the Castle been in the hands of the Royalists, and captured by the Parliamentarians, it would have been dismantled and left in ruins, the same as Kenilworth, and we should not have had the pleasure of seeing one of the most splendid and entire specimens of feudal grandeur in the kingdom, not less remarkable for its stately magnificence than for the elegance of its architecture and the beauty of its situation. Our party, immediately after arrival, proceeded to the entrance to the Castle grounds, whose doors the porter opened to admit us.

On we wended by a winding road cut through the solid rock, its sides being covered with ivy and skirted with shrubs ; thence to a massive gateway, flanked by two towers, and connected by an embrasure above, its gates being formerly defended by a port-cullis, through which the road led into an inner court, in the centre of which is a lofty octagonal tower, with a projecting embattled parapet resting upon corbels. In the south angle is Guy's Tower, of nearly similar form, but more ancient, and having a watch or exploratory turret rising within its battlements, from which an extensive and beautiful view of the country is obtained. On the north east side are two low embattled towers, in one of which bears were anciently kept for the purpose of baiting The range of state apartments on the east, as viewed from the side of the Castle, is strikingly magnificent.

The windows are in fine pro portions, and every part is in the most complete state of preservation. On gaining admission to the interior we found the state apartments superbly grand, and through them we were ushered by a very intelligent lady guide, who appeared to have a perfect knowledge of every picture and article of virtu in the place. The paintings by the old masters are very numerous, and the gallery is rich in the works of Vandyke and Rembrandt. There is also an extensive collection of curiosities and antiques, amongst which is a table richly inlaid with precious stones, said by our guide to be worth 10,000 guineas. The tourists, however, could only give a hurried glance at all those valuable specimens of art. A disastrous fire occurred at the Castle on the morning of the 3rd of December, 1871 ; the magnificent baronial hall, the dining room, and the whole of the inhabited portion were completely gutted, the external walls alone remaining.

The state apartments narrowly escaped destruction, and many of their costly treasures were injured by hurried removal. All the damage, however, has been repaired, so that hardly a trace of fire can be discovered. A large portion of the splendid suits of ancient armour, which was greatly injured, has also been success fully restored. Having finished our inspection of the grand and spacious apartments, including the state rooms and the armoury, a stroll was taken in the grounds under the shade of some beautiful Cedars of Lebanon, said to be the finest in the kingdom, and with which the place abounds. In the greenhouse built for its reception is the beautiful Grecian vase of Lysippus, which was dug from the ruins of the Emperor Adrian's Palace at Tivoli, near Rome, and brought to England by Sir William Hamilton, under the direction and at the expense of his nephew, the late Earl of Warwick.

This celebrated specimen of ancient sculpture is of white marble, and is placed on a pedestal of the same material. Its form is really that of a hemisphere with reverted rim ; two intertwining vines, of which the stems form the handles, wreathe their tendrils with fruit and foliage round the upper portion of its exterior, and the central part is ornamented with antique heads and other embellishments. It is of large dimensions, being capable of containing one hundred and sixty three gallons. On leaving the Castle, our attention was arrested by an ancient female, who though not old enough to recollect the renowned Guy, Earl of Warwick, yet professed to tell us a great deal about him. Being invited into a room in the lodge, which contained the armour and other relics of the great Earl, she took considerable delight in showing us Guy's great porridge pot, which holds about ioo gallons.

She stated how she filled it three times in one night on a great occasion, a coming of age or some other important event, and how many gallons of rum, sherry, and other ingredients were mixed together to make the punch nice, the quantities of which we fail to recollect, but it was much approved by the guests and all consumed. She concluded by giving the old pot a good banging, the sound of which might be heard a quarter of a mile distant. The town of Warwick is exceedingly interesting, and possesses a fine quant market place, and the entrance from Leamington is defended by walls and an embattled gateway. The Church is spacious and commanding, with a lofty tower of magnificent proportions, and in fact is a small Cathedral. One of the finest views in England can be obtained from the bridge and rising ground above the Avon, which look upon the grand baronial Castle of War wick, with its many turrets dominating the river, and the bold rocky ridge surrounded by mag nificent trees which forms the background of the imposing picture.

We could have liked to have spent more time in making ourselves better acquainted with the old historic town and its interesting locality, but the hour had arrived for our departure, so leaving the Castle and the great porridge pot, we make all speed to our conveyances, and are soon on the road to Stratford. A pretty drive brought us to Charlcote Park, the residence of Sir Thomas Lucy. The park is extensive and still abounds with deer. Tradition states that Charlcote Park was rhe place where Shakespere shot the deer, which was the cause of his leaving the place of his nativity, and to this fortunate peccadillo we are probably indebted for that display of genius which has charmed and astonished the world. On leaving Charlcote, Stratford-on-Avon shortly appeared in view. The town is beautifully c situated on an eminence, gently rising from the west bank of the Avon, which, here expand ing, winds round its base.

We entered Strat ford by the Warwick road, over a handsome stone bridge of 14 pointed arches, which is soon crossed, and the tourists, who never let the grass grow under their feet, drive through the town direct to the Church, which is a structure of large size and gracefulness. It has transepts, nave, chancel, and aisles, and a fine tower and steeple. The approach from the town is through a fine avenue of lime trees. The interior is very beautiful, some of the windows being full of rich tracery. The monuments in the Church are many and interesting, there being several of the Clopton family, some of which are on a large scale and very striking ; but all sink into comparative insignificance before the smaller monument of Shakespere erected on the north side of the chancel wall and opposite to his grave within the rails of the altar.

Who can gaze upon his monument and stand besides his tomb without a sensation somewhat akin to awe, and with the knowledge that all the secret springs of action, that all the foibles and weaknesses, as well as all the grandeur and nobleness of humanity have been portrayed by England's greatest poet, in language whose force and truth have penetrated all hearts and made the whole world kin. Where do we find such universal knowledge and such delinea tion of character, of circumstance, of time, and of history, as in the immortal verse of " the poet of all time," who so truly wrote and marvellously illustrated that " All the world's a stage, and all the men and women merely players." These are feelings which must and do arise in the minds of most intelligent beholders, and have been forcibly expressed in the language of an illustrious American, Washington Irving, who in one of his papers in his " Sketch book," thus speaks of his own impressions when standing by the tomb of Shakespere in the chancel of Stratford Church.

He says : " There are other monuments around, but the mind refuses to dwell on anything that is not connected with Shakespere ; this idea pervades the place. The same feeling pervades the pleasant town of Stratford, the gentle river, the quiet meadows, the old woods, the pretty villages, which are interesting in themselves, appear to have no value but in connection with the memory of him who was born here and died here." The bust on the monument, which is that so universally known, looks on the surrounding scene with a calm serene dignity, and is slightly different from the celebrated Chandos portrait, and from the one in the picture gallery at Wentworth House, which are both believed to be originals, and for which the immortal Shakespere sat. From the Church all haste is made to Shakespere's House, in Henley Street, formerly a mean looking edifice, but now restored, which had originally been three small tenements, one occupied as a butcher's shop, another as a public house, but now all united into one.

The rooms in that portion in which Shakespere is supposed to have been born are squalid and small, the floors being of cement, and the wood work decayed and worm eaten. The whitewashed walls, the ceilings and window panes are covered with names and inscriptions in every language of the most illustrious personages and pilgrims of all nations, ranks, and conditions, and great care is taken to preserve them. The house is a complete " Curiosity Shop," containing a vast number of all kinds of relics connected with Shakespere, and is called " The Shakesperian Museum." Its walls are covered with pictures and engravings, the shelves with books, and the glass cases are filled with a marvellous amount of curiosities, all illustrative of the Poet, the scenes and actors in connection with his plays, or of the Elizabethan era in which he lived.

It is attended to by two sisters, who are respectable ladies, each having their own department, and they give you a very interesting and graphic account of the principal articles in the place. As they are enthusiastic worshippers of Shakespere, they would have kept us for hours, but as our time was short, we had to content ourselves with a hasty glance at the numerous relics shown, and adjourn to the noted Shakespere Hotel, where an excellent dinner was served, which being duly honoured and thoroughly enjoyed, we left Stratford-on-Avon by the 3 o'clock train, and journeying by Birmingham and Derby, arrived in York an hour and a half before midnight, much pleased and gratified with our excursion to some of the most interesting places in the Midland Counties. August, 1876. No. 3, gl !ptalktn0 ®ouv in fatcljmottbafjtr*, ©ccsbale, tljc ptcstmovrlanir <iJcU»> anb (&betx ?i)aUe»j. Two Lectures delivered at the York Institute on Dec. i-th, 1878, and January yth, 1879. 7!Jv^T is now two years ago, at the request of your Honorary Secretary, I had the pleasure of giving in this Lecture Hall, an address on Tours in Yorkshire, and it affords me considerable gratification in being able to comply with a similar request, and give an account of a walking tour, in the month of August last, which embraced places of great interest, and grand romantic scenery in portions of the three Counties of York, Durham and Westmoreland.