Sketches in Spain and Morocco

Front matter

SKETCHES l.V SPAIN AND MOROCCO. LONDON: PRINTED BY THOMAS DAVISON, WH ITEFIUARS. . i ' -r _t ■: i<* Cape Trafalgar and lli.e ' loast of Europe from th.e_Bar_b.ai_ Skores SktZcAea. et/ fy- Ai.dt CJSrmki SKETCHES IN SPAIN AND MOROCCO. BY SIR ARTHUR DE CAPELL BROOKE, BART. M.A., F.R.S., &C AUTHOR OF " TRAVELS TO THE NORTH CAPE OF EUROPE," " A WINTER IN LAPLAND," &C. IN TAVO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

Chapter I

Set out from Tangier. — Moorish Peasant- Women. — Encamp for the Night. — Arab Douar. — Kouskousu. — Ain Dalia. — Arab Females. — Continuation of the Journey. — Extensive Plain. — Maharhar River. — Old Burial-Ground and Sepulchre. — Ghabat Akloo. — Stone -Tumuli. — Cross the Mountain. — Encamp at an Arab Douar. — Evening Devotions. — Bad Weather. — Bedouin Arabs. — Illness of Hamet Sharkee. — Night Concert. — Attack of the Cattle of the Douar _ by the Mountaineers. — Hamet Sharkee sent back to Tangier. — Badness of the Road. — Ascend the Hills. — Ancient Remains. — Table-land of Garbia. — Abundance of Game. — Barbary Mouse. — River Ayache. — Sanctuary of Mohamed Ben Ali. — Morocco Saints. — Encamp at the Douar of Mazora . . : . Page 1

Chapter II

Ancient Pillar called L'Uted. — Description of the Remains. — Compared with the Celtic Monuments in our own Country. — Its great Antiquity. — Singular Traditions. — Badness of the Weather. — Observations of the Arabs. — Nisrht-Watch. — Douar of Mazora. — Arab Tents. — Dress of the Women. — Necklaces purchased. — Description of VI CONTENTS. them. — Journey continued. — Nature of the Country. — Myrtle Plains. — Sahel. — Moorish Village. — Encamp for the Night. — Sidi Absalom, the Scheik. — Wild Boars. — Talib. — Set out for Larache. — Extensive View. — Saint of Wazein. — Battle of Alkassar, in 1578. — Cross the Luccos. — Arrival at Larache . . . .36

Chapter III

Description ofthe Town. — Its ruinous State. — Population. — Plentiful Supply of Kouskousu. — Way in which it is prepared and dressed. — How it is eaten by the Moors. — Quantity devoured by them. — Visit to the Governor. — Alcassaba. — Excursion into the Country. — Rock-pigeons. — Sfot resorted to by Muley Soliman. — Gardens outside the Walls. — Profusion of Oranges — Comfortless State of our Habitation. — Purchases made. — Silk and other Manufactures of Fez. — View from the Windows. — Harbour. — Distrust of the Moors . . . .70

Chapter IV

Departure from Larache. — Passage of the Luccos. — Encamp in the Afternoon. — Shooting. — Inattention of the Scheik. — Anger of the Alkaid in consequence. — Start early in the Morning. — Reach the Sea-shore. — Mussulman Gravity. — Features ofthe Coast. — Sanctuary. — The Nautilus. — Leave the Coast. — Commencement of bad Weather. — Arrive at Arzilla. — Received into the house of a Jew. — Visit from the Saint of Arzilla. — Tea-drinking. — Interchange of Presents. — Inhabitants.— Present of Black Loaves from the Saint. — Tea-pot carried off by the holy Man. — Leave Arzilla.— Waad el Rife River.— Garbia.— Difficulties of crossing the Rivers.— Encamp on the Banks of the Mechra el Hachef.— Altercation.— Enabled to cross the River the following Morning.— Parties on the Road.— Arrival at Tangier ...... CONTENTS. VII

Chapter V

Commencement of the Winter Season. — Scarcity of Woodcocks. — Lakes near the western Coast. — The Flamingo. — Singular Fineness of the Weather. — Arrival of Steam-vessels from Gibraltar — Grand Salute from the Batteries. — Cause of it. — Exultation of the Inhabitants. — The Moors. — Their Features, Figure, and Cast of Countenance. — Dignity of Manner. — Costume. — Complexion. — Character ofthe Race. — Plurality of Wives. — Facilities of Divorce. — Habit of swearing by the Harem. — Bid adieu to Barbary . 127

Chapter VI

Arrival at Gibraltar. — General Sketch of the History of the Fortress. — First Invasion of the Arabs. — Taken by the Spaniards in the Beginning of the fourteenth Century. — Retaken by the Mahometans in 1333. — Fell into the Hands ofthe King of Granada in 1410. — Surrendered to the Spaniards in 1442. — Taken by Sir George Rooke in 1704 — Ineffectual Attempts of the Spaniards to retake it. — Siege of 1726". — Last and memorable Siege of Gibraltar in 1779 146

Chapter VII

Start from Gibraltar. — Guadiaro. — Gaucin. — View. — Andalusian Scenery. — The Palm Tree. — Crosses. — Robbers. — Arrival at Ronda — Lodgings. — Town described. — Bridge. — Alameda. — Inhabitants. — Cueva del Gatto. — Continuation of Journey. — Ronda Mountains. — Burgos. — Mountain Venta. — Malaga. — Climate. — Velez Malaga. — Night Quarters. — Alhama. — Sierra Nevada. — Evening Scene. — Approach to Granada . . . .166

Chapter VIII

Granada described. — Situation of the City. — The Alhambra. — Xeneralife. — Palace of Charles V. — Dispersion of the CONTENTS. Nuns during the Constitution. — Posada del Sol. — Santa Fe. — Siege of Granada. — Visit to the Soto di Roma.— The Al bayzin.—The Alpujarras. — Moriscoes. — Journey resumed. — Alcala. — A Traveller's Breakfast. — Rio del Castro. — Spanish Olla. — Arrival at Cordova . • 220

Chapter IX

Cordova. — The great Mosque. — Palace of Zehra. — Condition of Spain under the Moors. — Irregularity of Passport. — Inhabitants of Cordova. — Hermitage. — Departure from Cordova. — Andujar. — Portuguese Refugees. — Baylen Diligence described. — Narrow Escape. — Escort. — Amicable Arrangement. — Captain Rolando. — Mode of Proceeding. — La Carolina. — Sierra Morena. — Scene of Don Quixote's Exploits. — Magnificent Road. — Passage of the Sierra Morena, by the French Army, in 1810. — Venta de Cardenas. — Valdepenas. — Wine. — La Mancha. — Puerto Lapiche. — ■ Ocana. — Aranjuez, — Arrival at Madrid i 251

Chapter X

Madrid. — The Escurial. — Coldness of the Weather. — Departure for Madrid.— Difficult Passage of the Guadarrama Mountains. — Old Castile. — Night Halt at Lerma. — Coterie described — Method of doing Business at Madrid. — The Condessa and her Companion. — Arrangement for the Night. — Burgos. — E nter Biscay. — Vitoria. — Tolosa. — Biscayan Peasants. — Pyrenees. — Irun. — Bayonne. — The Landes. — Bourdeaux. — Party of Nuns. — Poictiers. — Tours. — Paris. — Calais. — Arrival in England . . . 293 Notes SKETCHES IN SPAIN and AFRICA.

Chapter I

Set out from Tangier. — Moorish Peasant- Women. — Encamp for the Night. — Arab Douar. — Kouskousu. — Ain Dalia. — Arab Females. — Continuation of the Journey. — Extensive Plain. — Maharhar River. — Old Burial-Ground and Sepulchre. — Ghabat Akloo. — Stone Tumuli. — Cross the Mountain. — Encamp at an Arab Douar. — Evening Devotions. — Bad Weather. — Bedouin Arabs. — Illness of Hamet Sharkee. — Night Concert. — Attack of the Cattle of the Douar by the Mountaineers. — Hamet Sharkee sent back to Tangier. — Badness of the Road. — Ascend the Hills. — Ancient Remains. — Table-land of Garbia. — Abundance of Game. — Barbary Mouse. — River Ayache. — Sanctuary of Mohamed Ben Ali. — Morocco Saints. — Encamp at the Douar of Mazora. It was a most delightful day Avhen our caval cade got out of the dirty toAvn of Tangier, and snuffed up the fresh country air.

The Aveather was indeed so unusually fine and dry as to excite the surprise of all, and Ave heartily prayed for a continuance of it until our return. Our VOL. II. it ■J HAMET SHARKEE. party was rather numerous, consisting of the alkaid, or officer, who was to accompany us as a guard, myself, four Moors, being the muleteers, to whom the animals belonged, and a Portuguese, Avhom I had got from Gibraltar as an inter preter and to help. I had, besides, pressed into my service a respectable Moor, who spoke En glish perfectly Avell — better, indeed, than any Moor I ever met with, it rarely happening that any one of that nation is to be found in Morocco who knows a Avord of the language. His name was Hamet Sharkee, Avell knoAvn to the English at Tangier, having formerly lived for several years in the house of the consul general : he had been also an old soldier, and had several times distinguished himself in the field along Avith the sultan, where he had been wounded.

From his knoAvledge of the language, I foresaw he would be of great assistance to me in obtaining any information on my journey. The poor fellow, hoAvever, had been dreadfully ill for some time, and was ex tremely Aveak and feeble ; but the Aveather being so fine, he thought the air Avould be of service to him. As Ave passed through the cultivated plains of Tangier and the neighbouring villages, I observed the barley already springing up, Avhile the open grassy meadoAvs were scented with the perfume of the narcissus. We met numbers of HATS AVORN BY THE FEMALE PEASANTS. 3 country Avomen on their road to Tangier, who covered themselves on our approach. HoAAever cleanly the Moors may be in their persons, the necessary consequence of the frequent ablutions imposed upon them by their religion, it is not the case with regard to their raiment, which in general is filthy enough among the loAAer classes: the hayk worn by both sexes, from its original colour being white, very soon assumes the appearance of a dirty blanket, and the women in consequence are any thing but inviting in their exterior.

The hats that the female peasantry wear are made of the palmeta leaf plaited, and have a very singular appearance from their shape and size, having enormous wide brims, Avhich turn up at the edges, and are bordered Avith blue worsted, worked in along Avith the plait : the crown, Avhich is Ioav, is also ornamented usually Avith circles of coloured worsted and dyed plait. These hats are Avell adapted to the climate, being both cool and light, and aa ill keep off rain as Avell as sun. The finer sort are made of the palmeta bleached and neatly plaited, and almost approach to the European straw manu facture. On our road avc passed some large matamores, Avhich were guarded by a soldier. There AArere large flocks of the golden and common plover on each side of us as Ave passed; and as I had brought my guns Avith me, with the intention of shooting during the journey, I killed b BIVOUAC. several, as also some partridges.

Our direction was S.W. About four in the afternoon we lost sight ofthe cultivated country, and got among the hills ; and before five we had reached Ain Dalia, the spot where the alkaid proposed remaining for the night. We accordingly unloaded the mules, and in about half an hour had got the tents up, the baggage under shelter, the mules picketed, a fire lighted, and began to think of preparing our supper, so good an appetite does this Avild kind of travelling create. The place Avhere Ave had pitched our tents was close to a douar, or encampment of Arabs, consisting of about twelve tents, in the midst of which was the hut of the scheik, who, upon inquiry, we found was abroad in the plains, settling a dispute Avhich had arisen between his own people and those of another douar, and in which an Arab had been killed.

These quarrels frequently take place when the season for sowing the grain commences, and originate in the respective parties contending for the choice of land. Our encampment, which was high and dry, on a small plateau of elevated ground, covered Avith palm-bushes and different kinds of bulbous plants, commanded a fine view of the Straits, Cape Malabat, and Tangier Bay, as well as the cultivated plains we had crossed, with the dark wild extent of Jibbel Habib opposite to us, and in the distance the high mass of Beni Hassan in SUPPER. the Lower Atlas. When any of the European consuls at Tangier are on their journey to Fez or Morocco, to refresh themselves Avith the light of the imperial visage, and to settle any necessary business with the sultan, they usually make Ain Dalia their encampment for the first night, the distance being convenient and its situation dry and good.

I had laid in a good supply of fowls and capons at Tangier; and these having been killed in the Moorish manner, I found no difficulty on the part of my attendants in partaking of them, and a plentiful meal was made by all ; after Avhich the wine was produced : the only one, hoAvever, that I could get to taste it, Avith the exception of the Portuguese, Avas Hamet Shar kee, to whom it Avas really of benefit, from the state of his health. Although the scheik of the douar Avas absent, Ave received a good supply of eggs and milk from his brother, Avho exercised the rules of hospitality in his room ; and when tea-time approached I invited him to partake of this beverage, so greatly prized in this country. We had not very long finished Avhen a dish of kouskousu was brought in as a present from him, to Avhich we all fell, and Avere soon as merry as light hearts, good appetites, and some hot punch could make us.

As the latter is not regarded in the light of wine, and is moreover NIGHT-SCENE. boiled, the Mussulmen had not so much scruple in drinking it; and I also prevailed upon Al kaid Suse to taste some bishop, telling him it was merely red lemonade, an assertion which he was too wise to dispute. After supper was ended I took a stroll, with a cigar in my mouth, round our encampment, which a brilliant moonlight displayed in the most picturesque manner possible ; the tent appeared tall and Avhite, and our animals were picketed around it, tranquilly feeding; while at a short distance was the dark clustered group of the douar. The night Avas calm, and the only sounds heard Avere the occasional barking of the dogs, the cry of the whistling plover, and the droAAsy notes of the Arab drum from some of the tents, where its inmates were amusing them selves in harmless merriment.

As we were surrounded by Arabs, who have not the best reputation for honesty among the Moors, it was necessary to keep a good look-out; and the alkaid, seating himself in a palm-bush close to his gray charger, kept watch for the night, wrapped up in his hayk and sulham. We were up in good time ; and while breakfast was preparing I took my gun, and, accompanied by the alkaid, strolled round the hill after a covey of partridges I had seen from our tent. Ain Dalia, which signifies fountain of the vine, derives its high-sounding name from two small ARAB WOMEN. 7 springs, one of Avhich was a short distance beloAv our encampment, and though not very inviting in its outward look, supplied us with some good water. Adjoining it is a small enclosed garden, containing a feAV vines and some fig and lemon trees : the latter were full of fruit ; and being convenient enough for making punch, I gathered a sufficient quantity for the journey.

On our return Ave perceived some of the Avomen of the douar approaching us, on their way to the spring ; upon Avhich the alkaid, Avith that respect which the Mahometans in this regard ahvays pay to the female sex, immediately turned aside in a different direction. As avc pur sued our Avalk around the douar, we found the inhabitants of the tents civil and obliging, with the exception of the dogs, Avho were not back ward in flying out and attacking the naked heels of my companion : they were of a smaller breed than those I had seen in the Moorish villages about Tangier. The tents of these people, Avho appeared miserably poor, though contented and happy, Avere fenced at bottom with a few bushes, being small and wretched, and so torn as to admit the Avind and rain. In summer they repair to the plains be- Ioav, removing at the commencement of the rainy season to the high ground where A\e Avere now encamped.

I bought some foAvls of them at the rate of about four-pence each as a future JOURNEY RESUMED. supply, having now several mouths to feed daily. The country between Ain Dalia and Tangier is rich and undulating, with several villages inter spersed on the rising grounds. The women, who were generally uncovered, were dark and well looking, with very fine eyes : they wore a mi serable rag twisted round their heads ; and, like the men, Avere most Avretchedly clothed. I soon boiled a kettle of coffee for the Moors, and Ave finished our breakfast. The mules were loaded, and Ave started about nine, pursuing our Avay up a gradual ascent above the douar until we reached the top, where a fine view of the great Atlantic presented itself at the distance of a feAV miles. At our feet, an extensive plain stretched westAvard to the ocean, bounded to the north and south by mountains, and narroAving towards the sea, where it was terminated by the mouth of a river which traversed the plain and had partially flooded it.

On getting to the brow of the descent, Avhich on this side is steep and rapid, I observed a small cultivated spot at a short distance, Avhich I found upon inquiry was the other spring of Ain Dalia. When we had reached the plain, we proceeded in a S.W. di rection across it, shaping our course towards a high woody ridge of mountains. The appearance of the ground bore evident marks of the effect of the flooding, and Avas now under Avater in parts. Later in the season the whole AGRICULTURE. 9 of the valley is at times inundated. The soil was cold and stiff, but, notAvithstanding its un kindly appearance, tolerably cultivated ; and the Arabs were traversing it in different di rections Avith their simple ploughs with greater diligence than I had observed in the richer soil about Tangier. In some parts they Avere in dustriously employed in clearing the ground of the high thistles and wild camomile Avhich formed quite a close thicket : these they Avere collecting into heaps for the purpose of fuel.

Immense flocks of lapAvings and golden plover, which were so tame as hardly to take notice of us, afforded both employment for our guns and a supply for our travelling larder : the former birds, from their black and Avhite plumage, as also on account of their squeaking Avhining notes, were ludicrously called JeAvs by the Moors of my party. We met with no partridges, the plain being too Avet for them. We noAV reached the river Avhich we had previously seen from the high ground of Ain Dalia. It appeared slightly affected by the tide. The channel Avas wide, but the quantity of Avater Avhere Ave crossed was inconsiderable. Just as Ave reached its banks a beautiful smallsized kind of crane got up, Avhich I killed in good style at some distance Avith my single detonater, to the great delight of the Moors.

Its colour Avas milk Avhite ; long yelloAV legs ; ANCIENT BURIAL-GROUND. bill four inches long ; the whole length of the bird being two feet. The river we had just crossed is called, I was told, Marharhar. After passing it, the plain becomes rather more elevated and undulating, and, with the exception of a few spots, is un cultivated. The soil appeared, nevertheless, su perior, from its not being so exposed to flood. To the S.E. is seen a mountain called Beni Messawar. Not far from the river, we met a large party of Arabs Avith their camels, coming from the district of Garbia. As I walked across the plain ahead of our party, I came to a place where the stones that were lying in all direc tions at first induced me to suppose them to be the remains of a village, until, on a nearer approach, I found it was an ancient burial-ground, with the sepulchre of a saint, consisting of four low Avhite-washed Avails rudely built.

On inquiry I learnt that a celebrated saint, called Sidi Hisa Benijlesen, was interred there. At a short distance from it is a spring called by his name, at which our Moors stopped to drink ; and a stream be yond is also distinguished in a similar manner ; this latter appeared to unite lower down Avith the one we had before passed. We were now but at a short distance from the chain of mountains I had seen from Ain Dalia ; and, on approaching them, a feAV straggling cork-trees and myrtle-bushes showed GHABAT AKLOO. 11 themselves. At the bottom of the broken range that Ave were about to ascend, and which is called Ghabat Akloo, is a spring of the same name. The path from this up to the top was steep and rugged, and so broken up by the torrents, that our loaded beasts had the greatest difficulty in scrambling up.

When we had nearly reached the summit, a fine view of the Atlantic opened itself, Avith Cape Spartel in the distance. The embouchure of the river avc had crossed Avas bordered by Avoody heights ; and if the tide had been up it would have added greatly to the view. As we Avere proceeding in single file along the narrow track, we encountered a party of Arabs on their camels laden Avith foAvls, and on their way to Tangier market. At the spot where A\e met them were tAvo large heaps of stones ; and I observed, as both Moors and Arabs passed them, that one or tAvo of each party picked up a stone and added it to the heaps. The Moors, on my inquiring the reason of this, shoAved an evident reluctance to gratify my curiosity, and evaded the question ; and it was only aftenvards that I found out that these heaps denoted the spot where tAvo murders had been committed.

The upper part of the mountain Avas tolerably well Avooded, chiefly Avith cork-trees, but of a size far inferior to what I had seen in Spain. The early CROSSING THE MOUNTAIN. rains had brought out a variety of flowers and bulbous plants, which were in full beauty : a kind of Avild hyacinth was in the greatest profu sion. NotAvithstanding the cover was tolerably thick, particularly in the lower parts, Avhere the high grass afforded a good shelter for game, I did not meet Avith a single thing, although traces of wild boars were occasionally seen. Owing to the steepness and badness of the track and the breadth of the mountain, Avhich is consider able, we were some time in crossing it ; and Avhen we had reached the opposite side, we came to a delightful green spot of pasture, Avhere Ave halted for half an hour to refresh our selves and beasts after the fatigue Ave had ex perienced.

On resuming our journey Ave pro ceeded across a plain of greater extent than the former ; the soil of which seemed poorer, and like it bore the marks of recent inundations from a river which my people spoke of as con siderable, and which they said laid in our di rection. Our progress, during the day, had been slow, owing to my shooting and the difficult country Ave had passed through — for even in the plains the travelling Avas bad and laborious for the loaded mules from the slippery state and deepness of the ground. Owing to this circumstance we found it would be impossible to reach the high lands of Garbia, Avhere avc had intended encamping, by the time the sun Avas AN ARAB DOUAR. down ; and it was therefore determined to direct our steps to an Arab douar in the centre of the plain, and remain there until morning.

The state, indeed, of Hamet Sharkee alone, made this a matter of necessity ; for the poor fellow AA'as so ill from the fatigue of crossing the mountain, and the motion of the mule he was on, as to be scarcely capable of keeping his seat. It was yet early Avhen we reached a small douar, and having alighted, prepared to encamp. In this we were assisted by the scheik, who came out from his tent, Avhither I had previously seen him retire, dressed in his best hayk to receive the strangers, and directed us in the choice both of a dry spot for our night quarters and of good pasture for the mules, Avhich, having unloaded, Ave turned out to graze. While the necessary preparations Avere making for the night, I strolled through the plain Avith my gun, accompanied by the scheik of the douar, whose name Avas Sidi Omar, and Avho Avas a tall dark grood-humoured-lookino- Arab, Avith beautiful Avhite teeth, Avhich they in general have.

We found the people industriously em ployed Avith their rude ploughs, draAATi by tAvo oxen, in breaking a stiff unkind soil, and Avhich, from its being a strong clay, they had great difficulty in getting through. They succeed, notwithstanding, in obtaining tolerable crops of wheat, barley, peas and beans, maize, and some AN ARAB DOUAR. small turnips. The produce is, however, much starved by the coldness and wetness ofthe land, OAA'ing to its low, flat situation, and its being constantly inundated by the river. The most luxuriant crop it produced Avas that of thistles, Avhich exceeded any that I had before seen in thickness and height. Although they choke the land, yet they are not without their use, being serviceable both as fuel, which is here very scarce, and also for fencing round the tents.

When the ground is exhausted, the douar removes to another spot. The one we were iioav at had been three years in its present situation, having before been encamped higher up the plain at the foot of Ghabat Akloo. We were not very successful in our sport, although it was not from want of game. In the turnips Ave sprang some partridges without getting a shot; and along the river there were abundance of snipes and shore birds, and we saw also some flocks of ducks going towards the sea. Were the people more civilized than they are in Morocco, and did not the jealous suspicions interpose such insuperable difficulties to the pro gress of the christian sportsman, Barbary would doubtless present a fine field to him ; and could he but penetrate to the interior parts of the country, he would find full scope for his ardour in the chase of the larger and nobler beasts of prey, Avhose wild haunts are chiefly confined to the chain of AFRICAN SPORTING. the higher Atlas, and Avhich do not commonly approach the country bordering upon the coast.

The lion, that prince of the African deserts, is not to be met nearer than several days' journey from Tangier ; it is said that in the neighbouring forest of Rabat, this noble beast is to be met Avith. The hyena, called by the Moors dubbah, is more common, and I frequently heard of it during my journey, as likeAvise of the jackall. I could not ascertain satisfactorily whether any of the deer species are ever found in the northern parts of Morocco : if the accounts of the Moors, Avhom I have frequently interrogated on this head, are to be trusted, they are sometimes seen Avithin a day or tAvo's journey of Tangier, and it is not im probable that the gazelle, Avhich is, I believe, sometimes seen on the northern side of the Atlas, may occasionally extend its emigrations towards the coast districts : little reliance, hoAvever, can be placed on the accounts of the Moors, which are so vague and unsatisfactory, that, should a Avild goose chase be the object, nothing more would be necessary to insure sport in this par ticular than to attend to them.

The sportsman who can wean himself from the romantic pleasure of partridge shooting in an English turnip field by the side of a high road, or tear himself aAvay from the cockney delight of a pheasant battue, a ramble, Avith his gun for his only com panion, in so Avild a country as Barbary, Avill DR. SHAAV'S ANIMAL. not be without attractions, although he may not have the success of Mr. Waterton, in the south, or of my friend Mr. Loyd in the north, Avhose daring ardour, still in operation, has laid low so many of the shaggy inhabitants of the Scandinavian forests. I made several inquiries respecting the animal mentioned by Dr. ShaAv, under the name of the kumrah, but Avith no better success than I be lieve other travellers have done. The particular description given by the doctor of it, as stated to have been seen by him, and Avhich is asserted to be the offspring of the ass and coav, and very serviceable in Barbary as a beast of burthen, would almost warrant the belief that such an animal existed, if the numerous inquiries Avhich have been made at different times by subsequent travellers did not render it a matter of great doubt, to say the least of it.

" That which I saw," observes the doctor, " Avas single hoofed like the ass, but different from it in every other respect, having a sleeker skin, and the tail and head, though without horns, resembling the dams." Had this description proceeded from a tra veller imperfectly acquainted Avith the country, it would not have been very surprising if such a person had been deceived through his placing too great reliance on the information of the Moors, who in most cases take a pride in en- EVENING PRAYER. deavouring to mislead a christian ; when, hoAV ever, Ave find a minute account seriously given by an author like Dr. ShaAv, who, from a residence of many years in Barbary, must have been perfectly familiar Avith the country and its productions, all that can be said is, that it is very strange. On returning to the douar I found the tents up, and every thing in order.