Travels in Malta and Sicily, with sketches of Gibraltar, in MDCCCXXVII

Front matter

TRAVELS I N MALTA AND SICILY, WITH SKETCHES OF GIBRALTAR IN 1827. Ptntttmon \r MtaeiefS Sostuti. TOPOMAPMIC ClAKT OTF MOUIJT ÆrXAJ 2)enoting the Boundariesof ~ftants,4 Height? & temperatures of' Stations. TRAVELS IN MALTA AND SICILY, WITH SKETCHES OF GIBRALTAR, IN M DCCC XXVII. BY ANDREW BIGELOW, AUTHOR OF ' LEAVES FROM A JOURNAL IN NORTH BRITAIN AND IRELAND.' BOSTON. PUBLISHED BV CARTER, HENDEE & BABCOCK. NEW IfORK-ELAM BLISS. 1831. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S31 hy Carter, Hendee &. Babcock, in the Clerk's office of the District Court of Massachusetts. BOSTON CLASSIC PRESS: I. R. B UT T S.

ADVERTISEMENT.

. As it was desirable, not for mere embellishment, but for the sake of illustration, to introduce some lithograph prints into this work, — and the author himself being no draughtsman, — he was obliged in selecting from the materials which he possessed, to avail himself of the sketches of others. The Topographical Chart of Mount Ætna, as stated in the Appendix, was framed from two plans transmitted from a Sicilian friend and correspondent. The prints, entitled Scenery of Mount Ætna and View of the Ear of Dionysius, differ in nothing essential from two engravings which ornament the beautiful quarto of Capt. Smyth. The Head of La Valette is copied from De Boisgelin, but improved in the execution. It answers, in the expression, to the best portraits of the hero. The Bird's-eye View of Malta is substan tially the same with the engravings of La Borde and Palmeus, also adopted by De Boisgelin, but corrected and modified for the present work. The Ground Plan of Dionysius' Ear was prepared from a sketch, taken from careful survey, and furnished by an ingenious Syracusan artist.

Preface

. Although nearly. three years had elapsed since the tour in Europe was completed, ofa part of which an account is offered in the following pages, it was not till the last autumn that the author undertook to arrange and transcribe his notes for the press. In reviewing them, after so long an interval and with reference to su a step, he was induced to think that, whatever might be their f ;ific defects, they contained materials of information, on some topics, not generally accessible, nor, perhaps, altogether valueless ; and that a volume could be furnished from them, to fill up a vacant place in the catalogue of works by American travellers. Of Malta, an island once famous in history, little of late has been known. Even its fall, in 1798, when the standard of St John was struck from its ramparts and the tri-coloured flag planted in its place, — nay, and its subsequent. reduction, as a trophy of the naval ascendency of England, — were events almost over looked amid the mightier political changes then in rapid develop ment and which arrested the attention of the world.

Since the publication of the History by the Chevalier Louis de Boisgelin,* who has traced the fortunes of the island no lower than the date of its capitulation to the English, (September, 1800,) it is not known * ' Ancient and Modern Malta, embracing a History of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem ; ' London, 2 vols. 4to, 1805. I!

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. to the author of these Travels, that any work relating to Malta has appeared from the press. The accounts of Tourists are of still elder periods ; the latest which he has met with was published by a Frenchman, forty years ago ;* and it is sixty years since the visit of Brydone. The stay of the latter on the island was limited to four or five days, and his descriptions are brief and superficial. The present volume, therefore, may be acceptable to those who would learn, along with the past, something of the more recent and the present condition of the Maltese population, and of an island which, though small, constitutes a little world in itself. Sicily has been more frequently explored ; but the accounts of travellers are by no means in extensive circulation on this side of the Atlantic. The best of them are either locked up in foreign languages, or in costly volumes like those of Hoiiel, La Borde and others ; or if they have appeared in an English dress and from British presses, they have not been reprinted in America.

In revising the volume now offered to the public, the author consulted the most approved works to which he could gain access, both to compare with them for greater accuracy his own observations and reminiscences, and to gather suggestions upon some sub jects which escaped his notice, or required amplification. The principal of these works were the able ' Memoir ' of Capt. Smyth, R. N.,t the ' Travels ' of the philosophic Spallanzani,| and the elaborate ' Voyage ' of Hoiiel ; § in addition to the ' History ' of De Boisgelin, and ' Malthe' by the French Tourist, already speci fied. Brydone was examined ; but though his ' Letters ' are beautifully written, he was considered as never entitled to any great credit. As some of the discussions introduced into these pages involved references to various ancient and erudite authorities it is proper to mention, that in all caseswhere it was possible the fountain-heads were resorted to ; and that in the few instances * ' Malthe, par un Voyageur Francois,' 1791.

Though published anony mously, it is an authentic and valuable work. t ' Memoir, descriptive of the Resources, Inhabitants and Hydrography of Sicily and its Islands,' by W. H. Smyth, London, 4to, 1824. t ' Travels in the Two Sicilies,' by the Abbe Lazzaro Spallanzani, 1784. § ' Voyage Pittorcsque des Isles de Sicile and de Malthe.' 4 vols. folio. 1782.

PREFACE.

. IX of unavoidable exception, no citation has been admitted at second hand but on unquestionable grounds of correctness. The form of a Journal, it will be perceived, has been retained throughout. It was thus that the work originally grew in the author's hands, being principally, as it purports, a record of daily occurrences and remarks, often penned in very unfavourable cir cumstances, and exacting a heavy deduction from the hours of grateful rest. But to have adopted another plan of description, would have required a re-casting of the whole mass of materials, — a labour beyond his resolution ; — and what may have been gained in method, might have been lost in simplicity. Notes traced on the spot have a freshness which a more formal narrative cannot always supply. A bunch of unsorted wild flowers, with their leaves unfaded and dews unexhaled, are sometimes preferable to the choicest exotics, scientifically arranged, and pressed and dried for an herbarium.

In his descriptive sketches, the author has aimed at distinctness. He may have failed in the purpose, but his endeavour has uniformly been so to frame his descriptions, as to enable the reader to go along with him; to introduce him into the scenes detailed, and to place things before him with the same points of view which had been previously offered to himself. The reflections which arose, and the feelings suggested from time to time, have accordingly been expressed. It is possible that they may be thought, with some matters personal, to be intermixed too liberally. A con siderable amount, nevertheless, has been retrenched from the pages ; and it was fancied that if the scissors were applied more closely, and the rents made broader, the only thread of connexion would be destroyed, which binds together the numerous and multi form topics falling within the scope of such a work.

In a Journal of Travels, it is the pilgrim's self, — however unworthy he may be of the honour, — the order, that is to say, of his movements, adventures, observations and impressions, which, for want of a better, must give the character of ' unity ' to the narrative. For, he cannot classify his themes : he must describe things as they turn up, — objects as they lift themselves successively on his eye, — dis connected scenes amid which by accident he may be thrown, — and, perchance, the operations of his mind and the vibrating

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. X chord of association as he contemplates the varied and moving drama around him. If faithful to his task as Journalist, his pen will pass ' from gay to grave, from lively to severe,' in obedience to the impulse it takes from the shifting objects which catch his notice. However, in the present case, if ever the author be thought intrusive with his remarks, or, his musing not prove particularly amusing, the reader can easily slip his company ; and by turning a leaf or two in the volume, he may chance upon other veins of matter, — may come to scenes, not sentiments, and for feelings, have facts. Among the incidental subjects of comment and stricture occur ring in these chapters, there are two, which, from their comparative prominency, require a word of explanation ; — These are En gland and the Catholics.

As respects the last, the author can truly say, that his early prepossessions were strongly interested in their behalf generally, so far as the solid claims to estimation of those of that religious persuasion who were known in his native land, could favourably influence his mind. The mild piety and spotless worth of Matignon, of venerated memory; — the eminent virtues, the almost apostolical gifts and graces of the first Bishop of Boston, now the Archbishop of Bordeaux; — the talents and learning, the fervid eloquence, and warm-hearted, expansive philanthropy of William Taylor, — cut off, alas, in the morning of his bright day, — these, not to allude to others remaining amongst us, whose exemplary lives would adorn the most scrupulous Christian pro fession, were enough to win a measure of respect for any cause.

No one can reasonably question that the Catholics of the United States, personally considered, whether lay or clerical, are as much entitled to esteem and confidence, as the members of the strictest Protestant denominations ; and if we turn to the British Isles, we behold in the Doyles, the Kelleys, and the Lingards, men, whose names are among the most resplendent ornaments of religion, letters and humanity. Is it asked then, on what principles of truth and fairness the sweeping censures can be authorized occasionally a Ivanced in the ensuing pages against a faith and its advocates, which elsewhere are allowed to possess some of the noblest titles to commendation ? The answer is, that Popery is one

PREFACE.

. XI thing, seen, for example, in our land, contending for a dubious foothold, and placed side by side of jealous, rival and sharp-sight ed sects ; and Popery is another thing where it reigns ' lord of the ascendant.' It wears one aspect in Republican America, in Eng land, in Ireland, and semi-protestant France ; but another, and a very different one, in Spain, in Italy, in Sicily and Malta. Should it be alleged that many of its glaring disfigurements in the coun tries last named, result not from any evils radically inherent in the system itself, but are parasitical excrescences engendered by its temporal riches and political relationships, the suggestion un doubtedly is not destitute of weight. But on the other hand, it may be queried whether the Catholic religion does not foster within its bosom principles which naturally lead it to aspire to an exclusive predominance?

Whether, history does not show, that it has steadily coveted wealth as an engine of power, — political influence as the ladder of self-advancement, — and an intimate alliance of Church with State, to bring a resistless force to bear on whatever would threaten, oppose and traverse its pretensions ? Be this as it may, all may rejoice, even Catholics themselves, that on this lib eral soil, with the happy arrangement of checks and balances ex isting in the moral as in the political machinery, no sect can monopolize a paramount authority, — nor in conjunction with the civil arm, be tempted to the exercise of that spirit of aggressive in tolerance, (so well characterised by a late, great statesman,) which 'though decried by all while feeble, is practised by all when in power.' In relation to the other topic alluded to, the author may with equal sincerity declare, that whatever his present feelings may be, the early bias of his sentiments and attachments pointed to England, as the country, next to his own, claiming the homage of affection and almost unqualified admiration.* When the great struggle was waging between England, and the Continental Powers arrayed under the Imperial Dictator, the modern Marius, — the sympathies of the juvenile observer, in common with half of the people of the •'< - * A cordial expression was offered of those feelings and sentiments, in a little volume referred to on the Title of this work, first published at Boston, in 1821, and re-published in Edinburgh and London, in 1824.

PREFACE.

. United States, were enlisted on her side from the belief that she was contending in a righteous cause, the triumph of which seemed indispensable to her very existence. When, next indeed, the acci dents of war brought this country into collision with England, and she, that had been regarded friendly, was proved to be hostile, duty forbade a compromise of sympathies. They centered where they belonged ; and while war was lamented as an evil absolutely great, dishonour in war was deprecated as the greater. Peace ensued; and the citizens of the United States were prepared to act on the maxim of their immortal Charter of Independence, accounting their 'enemies in war, — in peace, friends.' It was fondly hoped that all asperities were softened down, soon to be completely removed; and that two nations possessing so many points of affinity, — having a common language,* a common vigour of enterprise, a common love of liberty, and the same Spirit of Laws, — would rejoice in each other's welfare, and cordially unite for the diffusion of the great principles which they mutually pro fess to advocate, among the other nations of the earth.

But the hope was illusory. If the lion were no longer disposed to prey upon, he was not yet content to lie down with, the lamb. Since the peace of 1815, a constant feeling of jealousy has been manifested by England towards the United States, — a feeling as un wise in its tendencies and operations, as it is incompatible with true national magnanimity. The British presses, — with but few exceptions, well known and duly appreciated, — have teemed with vituperation and abuse on almost everything of cis-Atlantic origin, — upon the men and measures of the country, its lite rature, and the political and social condition of its inhabitants. * Perhaps, too much is claimed on this score. We have it certified on the word of a British Captain, that on no two points are the people of England andthe United States more widely separated, than in the peculiaiities of language.

From his account it should seem, that the national idioms are as diverse as the Spanish and the Portuguese, or, haply, as the Gaelic and the Saxon. [Vide, Basil Hall's Travels, ch. xvi.] It i3 true, a Yankee might ' guess,' — in default ofa better privilege, — that even the astute Captain has not yet fathomed all the philosophy of the English language ; and that the critic's own shibboleth betrays a nativity cast somewhere else than on the Southern side of the Tweed.

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. XIII It cannot be forgotten that when the illustrious champion of liberty, 'in both worlds,' the great and good La Fayette, visited the Republic in 1824 — 5, and twelve millions of people then rose, as one man, to greet his coming ; when amid universal plaudits and benedictions, he made his progress through the twentyfour States of the Union, — such a progress as kings and victors might envy, but could not purchase, — the British Journals paraded the circumstances of his reception as matters of taunt and ridicule ; and even the London Courier could stoop to admit into its columns doggerel rhymes with the scurrilous insinuation that they had been inscribed on the triumphal arches erected in Boston, in honour of that august occasion. English travellers who have explored the United States, have gone back to repay the hospitalities with which they were loaded, by libelling all that Americans hold most dear in their country, and its public and domestic organizations.

In evidence ofthe temper on one of these points, — it was no longer ago than 1826, that a notable Lieutenant posted through the States, with the especial purpose of prying into our docks and marine arsenals, and having raked together his observations, then hastened home to dedicate his report to the Lord High Admiral. It purported, that whereas, he had measured the scantling, counted the guns and summed up the muster-roll of every line-of-battle ship, he had proved the Yankee Navy to be only a silly bugbear, or at best a splendid phantom. The affidavit of such a competent witness was published with acclamations, and huzzaed from Land's End to Johnny Groat's. — The next year brought another tourist, a certain philosophic Captain, to our shores, who, because he had written a romance on Loo Choo, felt competent to indite tales on the natives of these Western wilds.

But the quasi-aboriginals whom he met with here, by no means found that favour in his eyes which the unsophisticated children of an opposite hemisphere enjoyed. Americans were characterised by one negative and two positives in their national traits, which were insuperable bars to the likings of the gentle stranger. They had no ' king,' nor the least penchant for a king ; and they did happen to have some ' coin ' which they valued, and 'weapons' which they knew how to

PREFACE.

. manage. Whether from these or some other causes, throughout his peregrinations from Maine to Louisiana, the worthy Captain found naught that was fair and goodly, but on every hand a barren waste. It was a region, it seems, all swept and ravaged by ' the blighting tempest of Democracy.' But fortunately, he had only to cross into Canada, and the scene changed, and with it his spirit revived. The landscape appeared clad in softest verdure ; the roses sprang up beneath the traveller's foot ; Hesperian fruits charmed the eye and regaled the taste ; the people, in short, in nocent as happy, dwelt in a terrestrial Eden : — And no wonder. For there, avers this Oracle, the beams of the royal favour shine without a cloud ; every man sits unmolested under ' his vine and figtree,' — nay, doubtless, — Miraturque novas frondes, et non sua poma It is unnecessary to multiply particulars on this subject.

Enough it is to be sensible of the force of the prejudice, and the results of those causes and agencies now barely glanced at. The citizen of the United States must be more or less than a man, whose sensibilities are not affected by them. And the fact unquestionably is, that the minds of the great body of the American population, even those formerly most attached to Great Britain, are revolutionised ; — that the feelings of all are fast tend ing to a total estrangement from her whom once they were proud to call the parent country ; — and where England might have found a warm, devoted, uncalculating ally, she seems destined one day to encounter a most resolute foe. The people of two and a half millions whom she sought to trample in scorn in 1775 ; — whom, with its seven millions, she accounted as insignificant and pusillanimous in 1812 ; — whom, in 1831 with a census exceeding thirteen millions, she deems an object just worthy enough of her determined ill-will and jealousy, — may have a value in its friend ship and a weight in its arm, wherever bestowed, when, in but twenty years hence, it shall have swelled and multiplied to more millions than at this hour are comprehended in the Three British Kingdoms. Yet, it was not from a wish to promote such feelings of growing alienation, so far as the slender influence and unvarnished repre-

PREFACE.

. XV sensations of an humble individual can avail anything, that state ments have been offered and opinions expressed in this work which occasionally reflect upon the policy and conduct of England or her agents. Exceptionable matters were not sought out for the mere sake of animadversion. It was deemed, nevertheless, within the province of a journal, to remark upon them with freedom when they fell in the way. The examples of Englishmen are adduced to show that the language of retort and censure, would be fully warranted, — more especially, when borne out by truth and honesty ; but still, a spirit of recrimination, as such, has by no means been indulged. — From the government of that country, constituted as it now is, it is to be hoped that a better order of things will arise at home and abroad ; that among the other changes to ensue, a more liberal tone and bearing will hereafter be manifested and encouraged towards the United States, and that the cordial good will, which should exist between two such nations but which has been so lamentably shaken and impaired, may yet be restored and cement ed. That the sentiments recorded in some parts of this volume on the topics under allusion, are entertained by a no small portion of even the British population, is shown by the thousands of British born subjects annually discharged upon our shores, and the tens of thousands of self-expatriated emigrants already domesticated among us, who have fled, as they profess, from political grievances, past misrule, and the insufferable pressure of the national burdens in Old England.

It is one of the benefits which an American derives from foreign travel, to return doubly satisfied with the country of his birth. Comparing its exuberant blessings with all that he may elsewhere find, he perceives them immeasurably preeminent. If his imagi nation may have previously formed an overwrought estimate of the general advantages of the people of some other clime, he comes back with a mind disabused. He brings with him an en lightened conviction, that nowhere else is an equal sum of moral, political and social privileges dispensed, as here ; and his heart yearns, by consequence, with a deeper, a more thorough affection to the land where those privileges are so diffusively experienced. He rejoices in ' his country — his whole country ; ' and hails it as the best, the fairest, which the sun visits in its circuit. c

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. If, in the Travels now presented to the reader, the author has succeeded in illustrating the grounds of such a sentiment ; if he has furnished any additional helps for forming, directly or by contrast, a juster appreciation of the superior condition of Ameri can citizens generally to that of the subjects of some foreign gov ernments ; if he may contribute to quicken in the bosoms of but a few of his countrymen a throb of heartfelt patriotism, in reflecting that ' this is their own, their native land,' — the purpose, most anxiously contemplated by the present publication, will be accomplished. March 81, 1831. ERRATA. Page 118, line 15 from bottom, for ' deafened,' read ' deafening.' " 169, " 5 " " for ' ship docks,' read ' ships, docks.' " 265, " 6 " top, for 'capitol,' read 'capital.' " 267, " 15 " bottom, for ' irruption,' read ' eruption.' " 311, " 11 " top, for ' Anpaus,' read ' Anapus/ '* 343, " 3 " bottom, for ' singularly,' read ' significantly.' " 427, " 15 " " for 'was majestically,' read 'was seen majestically.' " 493, " 19 " top, for 'lxiii,' read «lx.' CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Voyage To The Straits

Reflections on Departure. — Ocean Scenery. — Thanksgiving at Sea. — Rough Gales. — Gulf Stream; Speculations on its Drift and Temperature. — Inhabitants of the Deep. — Sea Musings. — An Invitation. — Discomforts of a Voyage. — Nautical Anecdote. — The Azores ; their Aspect and Phenomena. — Course shaped from St Michaels. — Thunder Storm. — Approach to Land. — Cape Trafalgar. — Spanish Coast. — African Continent. — Sublimity of Land and Sea Views. — Appearance of Gibraltar. — Arrival. — Visits from Shore. — Incidents — Evening on board

Chapter II Gibraltar

Interview with the Health-Physician. — Release from Quarantine. — Impressions on Landing. — Appearance of the Mole and Streets. — Sunday ; Religious Services in the Cathedral and Government Church. — Comments. Spanish Ladies. — Costumes Jews. — Restraints of tho Inhabitants Survey of the Fortifications. — Reflections. — Ascent to the South Pinnacle. — Grandeur of the Prospect. — St Michael's Cave. Embarkation of Troops for Portugal. — Military Pomp. — Strength of Gibraltar. — Costliness of its Maintenance. — A Query on its Utility . .

Chapter III Gibraltar

Spanish Lines.— A Walk into the Country. — St Roque. — Dulness of a Soldier's Life in a Garrison. — Impolicy of maintaining Troops CONTENTS. in Idleness. — Feelings of the Military. —Sternness of Army Regula tions. — Illustration. — An Afternoon on the Mountain. — Arrival ofthe President's Message. — Cry of War. — England and the United States. — Dispositions of the Moorish Regency. — Accommodations in Gibraltar. — A Whimsical Scene. — Literature. — Mr. H — . . . . .55

Chapter IV. Passage Up The Mediterranean

British Packet. — Shore of Algiers. — Features of Sardinia. — Cagliari. — Trapani. — Scenes of the Vth Book ofthe Æneid. — The Ægades.' — Pantellaria. — Second View of its Beauties. — Appearance qf Goza. — First Glimpse of Malta. — Arrival in the Grand Harbour. — City and Suburbs. — The Parlatorio. — English and American Flag-ships. — Ceremony of Hoisting their Colours. — Quarantine Establishment and Regulations. — Strictures. — Observations on Small Pox. — Sketch ofa Lazaretto. — Removal to La Valetta 80

Chapter V. Malta

Aspect of the City. — Style and Material of Building. — Curious Balconies. — Condition of the Inhabitants. — Peculiarities of Dress. — Sunday in Malta. — A Caleche. — Excursion to St Antonio. — Aqueduct. — Maltese Husbandry. — Grand Masters' Garden. — Language of the Islanders. — Specimens of Native Poetry. — Rhodian Families. — Catholic Churches. — Character and Influence of the Clergy — Policy of the Government ; Past and Present. — Spiritual Courts. — Festival in Honour of St Paul. — Image ofthe Saint. — Thoughts on the Effects of his Doctrine . . . . . . . . .111

Chapter VI. Malta

Prosperity of Malta under the Order of St John. — Privileges of the People. — Testimony of the Chevalier Dc Boisgelin. — Changes wrought on the Face of the Island. — Balance of Trade, how adjusted. Soil, CONTENTS. XIX whence obtained. — Retrospect of Rhodes. — Military Erections. — Ge neral Forecast of the Order ; its Valour. — Climate, and Fruits of tho Season. — Inventive Shifts ofthe Inhabitants. — Marquis of Hastings. — Greek Pirate. — English Yacht. — Commerce of the Port. — Visit on Board the Revenge. — Treatment of Convicts. — Danger in Former Times from Captives. — A Peep Within Doors ; Doings Without. — A Maltese Barber. — Beggars. — An Anecdote 145

Chapter VII. Malta

Commodore Rodgers. — Condition of the North Carolina. — Sentiments in Malta. — Sir H. Neale's Reply to Mr Shaler. — Policy towards the Barbary Powers. — Departure ofthe Commodore. — St John's Cathedral. — Relic ofthe Saint. — Ceremonies in the Days of the Knights. — Tomb of La Valette. — Churches ; Greek, Catholic, and Protestant. — Malta, the ' Eye of the Mediterranean.' — Government Library. — Missionary Presses; Labours, Difficulties, Prospects. — St Paul's Bay. — Vipers. — Citta Vecchia. — Singular Grotto. — Extraordinary Catacombs. — Distribution of the Maltese Population. — Project of Mulberry Plantations. — Geology of the Island. — Ancient Inundation. — Culture of the Fig. — Caprification. — Treading the Wine Press . . . 181

Chapter VIII

' MALTA . Catholic Processions. — Government Palace ; Paintings. — Armoury of the Knights ; Trophies. — Giraffe. — Arrival of his Majesty's Ship Asia. Egyptian Mummy. — Burmola and Vittoriosa ; St Angelo. — Opening of the Carnival. — Second Day of the Sports. — Indulgences ; Votive Gifts. — Euroclydon. — Conclusion of the Carnival. — An Incident. Catastrophe. — Morning Contemplations. — Hospitals. — House of Industry. — Asylum for the Poor. — Insane Department. — Foundling. — Monte di Pieta. — Conservators. — Early Marriages. — Monastic Vows. — Morals of the Knights. — Customs. — Festivals. — St Gregory ...-•■ .... XX CONTENTS.

Chapter IX. Malta

University. — College of Priests. —Schools. — A Protestant Convert.— Religious Fanaticism. — Dr Pinkerton and the Bible Society. — Sinister Influence of the Government; Causes. — British Colonies. — Fate of the Knights. — A Motto. — Prospect of Mt. Ætna and the Shore of Sicily. — Remarks on the Phenomenon. — Penitential Pilgrimages. — A Parade. — Further Observations on the Appearance of Ætna. — Prayers and Masses for the Dead. — Air of Malta. — Domestic Items. — Invasion of the Island by the French. — Fleet of Buonaparte. — Comparison between Hompesch and La Valette. — Siege by the English. — Sufferings of the Inhabitants. — Gen. Vaubois. — Fall of Malta. — Parting Retrospect . . . . x . . 255

Chapter X. Arrival In Sicily

Departure from Malta. — Sicilian Brigantine. — Regulations on Board. — Cape Passaro. — Superstition of the Padrdne. — Arrival in Syracuse. — Reception on Shore. — Port Officers. — A Fellow Lodger. — Accommodations. — Cathedral Square. — General View. — Temple of Minerva. — Museum. — Ancient Bath. — Fountain of Arethusa ; Modern Nymphs. — Alpheus. — Casino. — Country Scenery. — Tomb of Archimedes. — Street of Sepulchres. — Latomiæ. — Ear of Dionysius. — Greek Theatre. — Amphitheatre. — Character of the Old Romans . . . 281