Jottings during the Cruise of H.M.S. Curaçoa among the South Sea Islands in 1865 ... With ... natural history notices

Front matter

CRUISE OF EM.S. CFRACOA. LONDON : PRINTED BY 6P0TTISW0ODK AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE AND PARLIAMENT STREET THE TWO F A. TIE-BEAN FROM ' KALL.UJI. SOLOMON ISLAN] WEAPONS, SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. JOTTINGS DURING THE CRUISE OE H.M.S. CURACOA .MoNij THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS IN" l865 r,Y JULIUS L. BRENCHLEY, M.A., F.R.G.S. With NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS and NATURAL HISTORY NOTICES CANOE, ULAKUA LONDON LONGMANS, GEEEN, AND CO. 1873 All rights reserved PEEFACE. Towards the end of the month of May 1865, I was at Sydney at the time H.M. steam frigate 'Curacoa,' com manded by Commodore (now Admiral) Sir William Wiseman, was preparing to leave for the purpose of displaying the British flag in the different archipelagoes of the Western Pacific. The Commodore, whose acquaintance I had been fortunate enough to make at Sydney, taking a kind interest in my love of exploring, and authorised by a circular letter which I had obtained from Lord John Eussell, invited me to accompany him, and obligingly proposed to me to become his guest during the Cruise.

I at once availed myself, as may be easily imagined, of this most agreeable and unexpected offer. It is pleasing to me to remember that the courtesy shown me by the Commodore was shared by his officers, to two of whom I must specially refer, the Hon. Herbert Meade and Mr. Foljambe. The former, pre maturely lost to the service and to his friends by a melancholy accident, gave me, in his last moments, a touching proof of his friendship, by desiring that a part of his

Preface

. VI journals should be consigned to me. To my regret a variety of circumstances prevented my making use of the valuable bequest of this most intelligent and distinguished young officer, and I eventually returned the papers to his family, thus losing the invaluable opportunity of enriching my own work, whenever it should appear, by blending it with some parts of his. His journals have since been published b}T his family, and achieved a success which they eminently deserved. The loss, therefore, has been entirely my own. To the kindness of Mr. Foljambe I am indebted for some illustrations which will be found in this work, and which had already appeared in an agreeably and well written work of his own, published only for private circulation, entitled ' Three Years on the Australian Station,' &c, a part of which contained a concise but spirited account of our Cruise.

These illustrations were from his own drawings. In these days of rapid progress and rapid change, when the ' latest news ' — a phrase which might once imply an interval of months or even years — has now reference to nothing longer than weeks or days, or hours, the publica tion of facts observed seven years ago has I am aware an archæological tint about it. But various and long wander ings since my journal was written, and different causes of delay unconnected with it, retarded its appearance for a long while. At length, when the opportunity — not entirely free from interruptions — of bringing it forth did occur, I felt it really necessary, as a sort of excuse for publishing it at all to

PREFACE.

. VII render it as attractive as I could by artistic illustrations, some of them of scientific interest, which have been great consumers of time. This has been a source of considerable delay. If the rapidity of our Cruise did not allow me much opportunity of studying the manners and social characteristics of the different islands, it kept me thoroughly engaged in forming and preserving a considerable collection of utensils, weapons, birds, ferns, shells, and other objects of interest. Of these some have been thought of sufficient value to be placed in the British Museum, while the great bulk, now arranged in the museum at Maidstone, contributes, as I am assured, much to the amusement and instruction of its inhabitants. In collecting, arranging, and preparing these materials — rather troublesome work on board ship, where room is scant, sea-water sometimes intrudes, and steadiness a la Bessemer is unknown — I was assisted by Mr. Wall, as taxidermist, and Mr. Brazier as shell-collector.

I must not omit here to return my thanks to the various missionaries I came in contact with for their personal civilities to me, and also for the notes they furnished me respecting the islands in which they resided. If I have had occasion to criticise some of them it is because, while believing them to be honestly devoted to the great task of civilising the natives of these regions, I have thought it a duty to record my impressions as to why they mar their own purpose, and expend their energies, sometimes, in an

PREFACE.

. VIII unprofitable way. This is the more necessary as the time is rapidly approaching when the process of missionary enterprise must be carried on in modes, and on principles, very different from those which were recognised when they devoted themselves to their task. If it be necessary to give a proof of this I will refer to the Dean of Westminster's remarkable sermon on the Day of Intercession — that day set apart for summoning England to the support of missionary enterprise. He there warns the missionary that dogmatic teaching is not to be the sole or principal lever by which the civilisation of those he is in contact with is to be upraised. In earlier times, he says, it was the practice to send forth to the heathen, missionaries whose special object was religious teaching ; but the time, he tells us, has arrived when a much more comprehensive and practical scheme of instruction is requisite. ' Let us not,' he observes, ' measure, as has been well said, this great work by the number of communicants and converts.' But this is precisely the measure which is too often employed by the missionaries when estimating and proving the amount of their civilising success.

But of what avail can be the fittest missionary, thouoh using the fittest means of civilising, when the ground he has to till is bristling with passionate recollections, and fierce resentments that thwart him at every step ? In the Western Pacific Ocean there is hardly an island the tradi tions of which do not record, or the existing generations of which have not experienced, outrages that cause their

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. IX inhabitants to distrust, fear, or resent the approach of the stranger-race. How is he to face those carriers of demora lisation who, to use the apposite language of the ' Times,' when commenting on the subject, ' spread themselves over the world, following everywhere the bent of their own nature, doing their own will, following their own gain — too generally doing and being nothing that a heathen will recognise as better than himself,' or by many degrees as good ? Even a missionary of the highest qualifications, such as we now aspire to have but rarely possess, might be basiled by such foes ; how then, we ask with the same journal, 'can a feeble missionary, who would too often be thought but a poor creature at home with every advantage in his favour, hope to stem with a few phrases the torrent of profligacy he finds already in possession of the ground ? ' The remedy proposed is ' to convert our masses at home : ' unfortunately this suggestion, besides being too common place, too rational, and too little ostentatious, indicates a process too slow to meet the urgency of the case.

But what could be done, if the country were in earnest, would be to take care that at least the most prominent offences of these destroyers and corruptors should inevitably meet the punishment which they deserve. It is time. In various parts of this book will be found evidence enough of the pressing need of such a policy. But if more were required, the frightful incidents brought to our notice recently in connection with the ' Carl,' a slave trader, pretending to be an emigrant ship, supply a P RE FACE. X horrible supplement. What a hideous emblem of our civilisation is that bloodstained vessel throwing out, like the fangs of a grim monster, its grappling-irons to clutch and upset the canoes of the unsuspecting natives, then sending its boats to pick up such of them as had not made for land, or were not drowned ; hustling and closely packing them in its hold, and, when its captives, driven mad by excite ment and suffering, quarrelled among themselves, firing shot upon shot at them through the hatches during the night, killing and wounding seventy ; and finally, when morning broke, throwing the dead and the wounded fastened to one another into the sea !

Surely if there were felt but a hun dredth part of the interest in the fate of the Polynesian that was once, and is still, taken in the fate of the African, there would have been a shout of indignant remonstrance from one end of the land to the other. But where now is the Anti-Slavery Society? Where is the really benevolent Society of Friends? Where is there the slightest flash of that frenzy of indignation not long since exhibited in the case of the Jamaica black ? But philanthropy has often its pet victims on whom it lavishes all its affection, and hence is to be seen fervid and flaming in one direction, while it is cold to rigidity in another, where the claims upon its sympathy are very similar, if not the same. It is to be hoped that some member of Parliament will endeavour to divert his colleagues for a moment, from matters more interesting to themselves, perhaps, and fix their attention upon one, than which none more concerns the honour of

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. XI the nation, and that is the necessity of pressing the Govern ment to make itself a vigilant and efficient representative of justice and humanity in these seas. Into the question of incorporating into the empire any one of the chief groups, as for instance, the Fiji Islands, I do not pretend to enter. No doubt the bringing them into official connection with the supremacy of the Crown, would furnish us a status in this region that would enable us to do incalculable good. Perhaps the semblance of a reason for such an annexation may be derived from what has recently occurred in New Caledonia. Commanding, as we are told on good authority this island does, the communication of Australia with India, China, Panama and California, it is clear that were its colonial resources to be considerably developed, it might be necessary to have some counterpoise to its influence in these seas.

Now the late extensive deportation of the Communists and their families might very well constitute the germ of a vigorous colonisation. For whatever may be thought of the political and social views of these men, there cannot be a doubt that very many of them must efficiently represent the mechanical and industrial skill of their native country. But, on the other hand, such are the vicissitudes of French politics that it is quite possible they may one day hear the signal of recall, to which every man of them would respond, hearing it, perhaps, under circumstances leading them to expect that their re-entrance into the capital from which they had been expelled, would be graced with all the triumphal pomp that

PREFACE.

. XII honoured the restored ashes of Napoleon, who, for a moment, execrated like them, had been, like them, pro scribed. What advantage New Caledonia may derive from their exile is, therefore, a matter of doubt. In acknowledging my obligations to the gentlemen whose zoological notices will contribute to the interest of my work, it is painful for me to remember that two of them, Mr. George Gray and Dr. Baird, have passed from among us and are beyond the reach of my thanks. A thankful remembrance of the interest they took in my collections is, however, a tribute I can and do offer to their memory. Folkestone : January. Since the substance of the above Preface was communi cated to the friend who writes this postscript, and put by him into the desired form, Mr. Brenchley — then very ill — has himself passed away.

A vigorous constitution, severely tried by years of incessant travel, after showing some premonitory symptoms of decay, suddenly broke down under a complication of maladies which rapidly overpowered a muscular frame, endowed with exceptional strength, at the comparatively early age of fifty-six. From 1849 to 1867, some brief returns home excepted, he was continuously indulging what he justly called his ' passionate love of wandering ' sometimes in company, sometimes alone — welcoming all sorts of hardships, running all sorts of risks, exposing himself to

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. XIII all varieties and extremes of climate, and always finding himself at home and happy, whether in the cities or the deserts, in traversing the plains or climbing the moun tains of distant lands. From New York, to which he went in 1849, after having for some months led a forest life among its Indian tribes, he proceeded to St. Joseph, on the Missouri, thence over the Rocky Mountains to the coast of Oregon and Fort Vancouver, and from the latter to the Sandwich or Hawaiian Islands. This was his first unbroken journey. Four years were then spent in explor ing every part of these interesting islands in company with a French gentleman, M. Jules Eemy, a naturalist, whose acquaintance he was so fortunate as to make there, and who, it turned out, was to be his companion in the greater part of his future travels.

At the end of this period Mr. Brenchley, following his friend, sailed for California, and, after reaching San Francisco, undertook, accompanied by M. Eemy, his remarkable and adventurous journey from that place to Salt Lake City, the capital of the Mormons. This was in 1855. On their way back to San Francisco they went to New Mexico, and, returning to California, ex plored every part of it. Next year they went to Panama and Ecuador, and ascended Pichincha, down the crater of which Mr. Brenchley, having slipped in his descent, was carried to a formidable depth, from which, with the utmost difficulty, by sheer determination and strength, he finally succeeded in regaining the summit. The next excursion was up Chimborazo ; after which they visited Peru, Chinchas

PREFACE.

. XIV Islands, and Chili. In 1857 they went to the United States, where, having visited the Canadian Lakes, he and his friend descended the Mississippi from its source, in a bark canoe, to Saint Louis, and, thence making their way to New York, embarked for England, where Mr. Brenchley once more appeared, after an absence of eight years. In 1858 and 1859 what may be called a home tour was taken, including Algeria, Morocco, Spain, and Sicily. Some literary engagements now caused a pause ; M. Eemy being occupied in writing from his own and Mr. Brenchley's notes an account of their visit to Salt Lake City in 1855. This work, written with great ability — unluckily more philosophical than sensational — and with a critical appreciation of Mormon institutions, by no means too lenient, but perhaps too impartial for the prejudices of ordinary leaders, was published in Paris in 1860.

The de scription of the journey was preceded by an admirable introduction ' On the Eeligious Movement in the United States,' of remarkable interest and value, and followed by a brief but very satisfactory sketch of Mr. Brenchley's adventures when crossing the Eocky Mountains." In the following year the travellers came over to this country to superintend an English translation of the work, which, brought out in too expensive a form for a subject not exciting any very great interest, did not secure the cir culation it deserved.1 1 M. Eemy is the author of several works, among others of 'Ana lecta Boliviana, seu nova genera et species plantarum in Bolivia cres-

PREFACE.

. XV This interruption over, Mr. Brenchley, once more at liberty, left England with his friend for Bombay ; after a little stay at which place they went on to the Nilgherries, Madras, Calcutta, the Himalayas, and Benares ; and then, being both taken ill, they returned for medical advice to Calcutta. Leaving that place, they went to Ceylon, on their way to China ; but here M. Eemy's indisposition increasing, he was obliged to take leave of his friend and return to France. Mr. Brenchley then proceeded on his way alone to China and Mongolia, made a trip to Japan, and, returning to China, went to Australia and thence to New Zealand, towards the end of 1864. While in Auckland in December of that year — there being j ust then a suspension of hostilities between the warring tribes — the Governor, Sir George Grey, being anxious that some Europeans should visit the friendly tribes in the vicinity of Lake Taupo, as a mark of attention which would be highly valued, Mr. Brenchley, in conjunction with the late Lieutenant Meade, undertook the expedition.

Sir George Grey has borne witness to the great benefit derived from this hazardous journey, the details of which have been set forth with great spirit by Lieutenant Meade in his ' Eide through the Disturbed Dis tricts of New Zealand,' &c. Soon after this Mr. Brenchley left Auckland for Sydney, whence he proceeded on the centium ; ' ' Excursion botanique a travers les Ardennes fran^aises ; ' ' Ascension de Pichincha ; ' and of ' Ka Mooololo Hawaii, Histoire de TArchipel Havaiien ; texte et traduction, precedes d'une introduction sur l'etat physique, moral et politique du pays.' Paris, 18G2.

PREFACE.

. XVI cruise which is the subject of this book. On his return to Sydney he devoted some time and trouble in organising, for the amusement of the people there, an exhibition of the curious and interesting objects which had been collected. At the close of this he went again to China, and thus made his way back to Europe by the Great Desert of Gobi, Siberia — in the depth of winter — and Eussia. Though he has left a large amount of notes made during his journeys, he was more interested in collecting material objects, illustrative and commemorative of his varied travels, than in devoting himself to literary descriptions of them ; the present work was the result of a promise. Of the rich and varied collection which was the product of his visit to the South Seas and other places, a portion, as observed in the Preface, has found its way into the British Museum ; but the principal part — consisting of birds, fishes, insects, weapons, shells, canoes, models, and objects of various kinds, illustrating the industry and arts of the different countries through which he passed, including fine specimens of the artistic and industrial products of Japan, China, Siberia, and Eussia — has been presented to the museum of his native town, Maidstone, to the enlargement and embellishment of which, in various ways, he has also munificently contributed.

Thus, though travelling for his own instruction and amusement, he spared neither cost nor trouble in procuring what he thought would contribute to the instruction and gratifi cation of others. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Norfolk Island

(June 9 to 13.) Leave Sydney — Lord Howe Island — Ball's Pyramid — Nepean Island and Philip Island— Sydney Bay and Cascade Bay — Ride from the coast to the town — The Rev. Mr. Nohbs and his adventures — The old penal settlement — Araucaria — Character of the new colonists — Their hospitality — Account of a murderous attack upon the crew of Bishop Patteson's yacht — An American and his flag 1-16

Chapter II. Niue Or Savage Island

(June 29.) Raoul Island — Off Niue — Tiger-sharks — The missionary — Excursion in the island — Familiarity of the natives — General aspect of the island — Its productions — Animals — Population — South American slave-dealers — Policemen — Costumes — Language — Manners and customs — Past and present character of the natives — Contradictory statements 17-35

Chapter III

TUTUILA— SAMOAN GROUP. (July 1 to 4.) Pann-o-Pango Harbour — Appearance of the natives — Statements by the missionaries — A pilot who takes his ease — Dwellings — Visit to the missionary — Trip into the interior — Village of Fungatele — American artisan — Native women — The chief dines on board — Native dance — Christian church — Manners — Progress due to Christianity — Indigenous products . . 36-60 a CONTENTS. XVIII

Chapter IV. Upol

U— SAMOAN GR 0 UP— continued. (July 5 to 10.) Apia Bay— Consul Williams, son of the Martyr of Eramanga— Mischief caused by a hurricane— Resident strangers— Baptisms on board— Sunday at Apia- Catholic bishop— Protestant missionary— Missionary disputes— History of a Bible in the Ellice Islands— Unfair treatment of natives— Visit of the great chief Malietoa— Inconsistent appreciations of native character— Remarkable testimonies in favour of the Samoans— Natives aud whites— Manners and customs— Ancient crater— Cascade— Island products . 61-87

Chapter V. Vavau- Tonga Group

(July 10 to 15.) Boscawen and Keppel Islands— Sandy point — Excursion on shore — Missionaries—Village of Neiafu— Visit to the governor David Unga— His singular mutilation — The guide Papalangi — Roads and convicts — Volcano of Latte — Curious natural grottoes — Population — Disease. — Government; — Laws — Products 83-103

Chapter VI

TONGATABU— TONGA GROUP— continued. (July 17 to 22.) Numerous islands — Volcano of Latte — First trip on shore — Royal palace — Schools — Muscular Christianity — The "Wesleyan Mission and its chapel- Captain Croker and the siege of Bea — Catholic and Protestant missionaries — Their mission houses — Their mutual criminations, and recriminations — Visit to King George — The king's return visit— His Majesty dines on board — Fear of the French — A dinner at the king's — Catholic missionaries — Council-house — The Kava Ring — Public school examinations — Native diversions — Tongan Stonehenge — The island and its productions — Climate — Maladies — Population — The race and its customs — Christianity and its effects — Relations of the Tongans with the Fijians — Government and constitution 101-143

Chapter VII

OVALAU— FIJI GROUP. (July 26 to 29.) The Island of Neau — Anchorage at Levuka — A visit on shore — The consul and his clerk absent — A French lady and her turn for natural history Excursion into the interior — Method of kindling wood — Canoe huildino- Appearance of the natives — Sharks and sword-fish . . . • . 143-152 CONTENTS. XIX

Chapter VIII. ML Au And

VITI-LEVU— FIJI GROUP— continued. (July 29 to August 2.) Mbau Roadstead — Boat expedition in Viti-Levu to Rewa up Wai-Levu River — Interview with Tui-Drakiti, King of Rewa — Courteous reception — Hospitality of the Rev. Mr. Carey, Wesleyan missionary — Trip in canoe up to Davui-Levu — Visit to the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Baker — Capsized on way back to Rewa — The natives and their huts — Return from Rewa to Mbau — King Thakumbau — Exchange of civilities and arms — The great Kava bowl — The Akau-tabu — Conjecture respecting cannibalism — Cruel practices in Fiji — Not unparalleled in civilisation — Intellectual and moral characteristics of the Fijians — Jackson's praise of them — Captain Erskine's confirmation of it — Their intelligence and acuteness — Their songs and hymns — Their proverbs — Their capacity of conversing — Their love of fun and jest — What value they attach to truth — Singular ceremony at Mbau — Interesting pic-nic 153-175

Chapter IX

KANDAVU—FIJI GROUP— continued. (August 3.) Levuka Bay and village — Peculiar form of the island — Mountain cliff of Buke-Levu— Village of Yawe— Visit of H.M.S. ' Esk '—Letter of canoe-men to her commander — Notes on the Fiji group — Chiefs— Languages — Their mythology — Deification promised to a missionary — ' I am a God ' — Character of their gods, and its results — Impediment to civilisation — Climate and soil— European population— Native notions respecting property and land — Difficulties thrown in the way of its acquisition— Improved prospects for settlers— Exports — Commerce— Future resources . . . 176-102

Chapter X

ANATOM— NEW HEBRIDES. (August 6 to 10.) Striking appearance of the island— A vessel belonging to the Presbyterian mission— Climate— Causes of decreased population— Character of the natives —Progress due to Christianity— Chiefs— Productions . . . 193 -200

CHAPTER XL

TANNA— NEW HELRIDES— continued. (August 10 to 13.) Uea Harbour— Useless negotiations with offending chiefs— Bombardment- Men landed and property destroyed— Incidents of the attack— Effect proa. CONTENTS. XX duced on the enemy — Description of the island — Climate and disease — Disposition of the people—Morality—Usages—Creeds—Government—Ma rum, or council-house— Fruitless efforts of the missionaries — Languages — Volcano of Asur and its environs — Productions and exports . . 201-214

Chapter XII. Vate Or Sandwich

ISLAND— NEW HEBRIDES— continued. (August 16 to 18.) A day at Eramanga — Stop at the port of Vila — Anchor in Havannah Harbour — The ' Dayspring ' again — Costumes of the natives — Excursion in the island — Dwellings — Fisherwomen — Cannibalism — The Rev. Mr. Turner's account of them — Favourable notices of them by various visitors — Decrease of population — Language — Government — Customs — Artistic skill — Creeds — Teachers and their extravagant tales — Products 215-232

Chapter XIII. Vanua-la

V A— BANKS' ISLANDS. (August 21 to 23.) Through the northernmost islands of the New Hebrides — Uncertain navigation — Port Patteson — The ' Southern Cross ' and Bishop Patteson — Appearance of the natives — Trip in the island — Vegetation — Dwellings and club-house — River of hot water— Jets of vapour— Eggs of Megapodius — Customs- Climate — Diseases — Vegetation ... ... 233-242

Chapter XVII

SAN-CHRISTOVAL— SOLOMON GROUP— continued. (August 30 to September 4.) Anchor at Wanga — Arrival of canoes — Barter — A walk in the island — A native carving resembling a European hat — A grimly decorated canoe-house — Opossum — A glutinous fruit — Village — Women entirely naked — Human skulls — Curious groups of natives — Constant state of warfare — Fishing in a river — Anchor at Hada — A self-styled king — A nigger who treats the natives as niggers — The bishop and the murderer of one of his teachers — Appearance of the natives 204-273

Chapter XVIII

G UADALC AN AR— SOLOMON GR OUP— continued. (September 4 to 5.) Marau Sound — Curacoa Harbour — Visit ashore — Marshes — Dwellings — Men and women — The Island of Malata in the distance .... 274-276

Chapter XIX. Fl

ORIDA—SOL OMON GROUP— continued. (September 5 to 7.) Aspect of the island— Gulf of Mboli, and anchorage in Port Wiseman— Native canoes Ornaments — Barter — Judicious advice not to land — Fishing on the reef— Uneasiness caused by the prolonged absence of our hydrographic officer— Important result of Mr. Scudaniore's survey . . . 277-285

Chapter XX

YSABEL— SOLOMON GROUP— continued. (September 7 to 10.) At anchor in St. George's Bay— Cockatoo Island— Barter— Ebony trees— Trip inland— Difficult walk— A convoy of women— Houses perched in trees — Pigeon Island 286-293 CONTENTS. XXII

Chapter XXI

EBAMANGA—NEW HEBRIDES. (Settf.mber 25 to 26.) View of a fortified village and a tree-house — Man overboard — Tedious navigation — A gale — Calms — At anchor in Dillon's Bay — News from land — Trade in sandal-wood — Mr. Henry — Lime from coral — A bomb-shell in the hands of savages — The Rev. Mr. Gordon — Hostile state of things — Two ill-disposed chiefs — The master of the ' Curacoa ' attacked by natives — The village of Sifu bombarded by the ' Curacoa ' — A missionary who never laughed — Remarkable censure of the local missionaries connected with these proceedings against the natives — A more equitable course of action required — Notes on the island — Epidemics — Missionary labours — Government — Manners and customs — Religious creeds — Trade in wood and women — Productions — Industry 204-322

Chapter XXII. New

CALEDONIA— LOYALTY ISLANDS. (September 28 to October 8.) Loyalty Islands — Aspect of New Caledonia — Havannah Passage — Praslin Bay — Canoes — At anchor in Port-de-France — Visit from the governor — Visit returned — Madame Guillain — M. Guillain — Government-house and gardens — The governor and the Protestant missionaries — The capital of the colony — The model farm of Yahove — A new kind of plough — Coffee trees — The aborigines — Religion — Manners and customs — Infamous usage of natives by whites — Captain Cook's favourable notice of them — Basset, chief of Yengen — His house in the interior — Appearance of the country — Trimly-kept houses — Poles surmounted by skulls — Remarkable irrigation — Remains of ancient aqueduct — Return to Sydney — Conclusion . . . 323-350 NATURAL HISTORY NOTICES.

BrEIIS 353-394 Reptiles 395-408 Fishes 409-430 SnEI*LS 431-454 455-474 LIST OF ENGBAVINGS. MAP. Chart of the South Sea Islands End as the, booh CHROMO-LITHOGRAPHS. PAGE The two sides of a tie beam from a village hall, Uji, Solomon Islands ..... Frontispiece A village hall, Uji, Solomon Islands . . . To face 262 SEPARATE ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD. *** The woodcuts to which an asterisk is prefixed were engraved by Mr. G. Pearson, from Photographs made upon the spot : those with a f were lent by Mr. Foljambe. * Natives of Tutuila ..... To face 40 * Levuka ... . . ,, 145 ♦Natives of Ovalau .....,, 152 * Weapons, South Sea Islands . . . . „ 222 * Scene in Banks' Islands ....,, 233 * Canoe House, Uji ....■„ 258 * Natives of Ysabel Island . . . . „ 287 * Natives and Canoe, Ysabel Island . . . „ ENGRAVINGS IN THE TEXT.