Journal of a Voyage to Peru, a passage across the Cordillera of the Andes, in the winter of 1827, performed on foot in the snow, and a journey across the Pampas

Preface

. The following sheets contain a narrative of my journey across the Continent of South Ame rica, in the month of August, 1827 ; and my return by the same route in the month of Decem ber following. The Journal was written, according to a very general custom amongst Naval Officers, solely for the information and amusement of VI

PREFACE.

. my friends, without any view to publication ; but, since my arrival in this country, I have been persuaded to present it to the notice of the public, in the humble hope that it may be found to contain some information useful to those, whose business or pleasure may lead them to pursue the paths wliich I have so recently trodden. To the character of a literary work, this Jour nal has no pretensions ; for it was written in haste from day to day, during very rapid jour nies. Every scene described was written on the spot ; and circumstances have since prevented me from arranging these hasty sketches in a form more worthy the public attention. I trust, however, that it will be found to con tain a faithful account of the various difficul ties a traveller has to encounter in crossing

PREFACE.

. VII the Continent of South America in the winter season ; and J hope that the kind indulgence so generally extended towards a first produc tion, will not be withheld on the present oc casion. London, July 1, 1828. Page I CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Introduction — Departure from England — Feelings of the Passengers — Pass under the Sun — Divine Service at Sea— Reflection — Cross the Equator — Neptune's Visit — Arrive at Rio Janeiro — Scenery of Rio Janeiro — Description ofthe Slave Market — Visit to the Botanical Garden — Sail from Rio Janeiro — Arrival at Monte Video — Prepare to Travel through the Banda Oriental

Chapter II

Leave Monte Video — Reports of the state of the Banda Oriental — Brazilian Out-posts — Patriot Out-posts — Wild appearance of the Troops — Arrive at Canelones — Departure — Guide's fear of X CONTENTS. Page 21 36 Robbers — Get benighted, and lose our way — Method of marking horses — Deserters about — Arrive at Las Vacas — Embark in an open whale boat to cross Rio de la Plata — Driven on the Sand-banks — Arrive at Buenos Ayres — Prepare for crossing the Pampas

Chapter III

Leave Buenos Ayres — First night on the Pampas — Description of a Post-House — Posts protected against the Indians — Description of a Gaucho and his Family — Fire on the Pampas — Beautiful driving of the Peons — Family of Indians — Hunting Deer and Ostriches — Cruelty of the Gauchos to their Horses — Hear of Robbers — View of the Hills of Sierra de Cordova — Arrive at Punta de Agua

Chapter IV

Carriage upset — Dexterity of the Peons — Cross a River — Storm on the Pampas — Indian Chief and Two Captives arrive — Pampas Music — Arrive at San Luis — Rio Desaguadero — Night Scene — First sight of the Andes — Arrive at Mendoza Description of the Natives of the Pampas — Tra- CONTENTS. XI Page 54 84 veiling Companions — Ball at Mendoza — Mendo za Ladies — Alameda or Public Walk — Prepara tions for entering the Andes

Chapter V

Leave Mendoza — Enter the Andes — Arrive at Villavicencia — Twelve Peons blocked up in a Snow-storm — Dead Mules — Singular appearance of them — Sufferings of the Ancient Indians — First sight of the Cordillera — Grand and awful appearance — Reflection — Arrive at Uspallata — Peon found blind in the Cordillera — First pass swept away — Description of its Dangers — Guanaco caught — Magnificent natural Bed-Chamber in the Cordillera — Electricity found in our Clothes — Difficulties commence — Fourth Pass covered with Snow — Its Dangers — Lose a Mule down the Mountain — Fifth Pass covered with Snow — Extreme Danger — Lose two more Mules — Second night in the Cordillera, with wild Bed-Chamber and Gale of Wind — Leave the Mules, and proceed on foot — A Peon rolls down a Mountain of Snow, and breaks his foot — Distress and labour of the Peons — Dead Peon in the Snow — Reflection . ... CONTENTS. Page 116

Chapter VI

Lose all sight of the Track— Inca's Bridge choked up with Snow — One of our Peons found nearly dead in the Snow — Severity of the cold — Interesting Extracts of the Sufferings of the French Army in Russia — Advice to Travellers — Snow-storm comes on — Peons lose their Courage — Desert our Luggage, and make a precipitate Retreat to the Casucha — Blocked up till the next day — Description of a Snow-storm — Excessive cold, Thermometer fifteen degrees below freezing point .....

CHAPTER VI.

continued. Storm abates — Proceed — Find our Luggage buried in Snow — Cross over natural Bridges of Snow — Arrive at the Foot of the Cumbre — Magnificent Appearance — Description of the Ascent — Arrive at the Summit — Puna, or Difficulty of Breathing — Descend immediately— Deserted Goods laying in the Cordillera— Terrific Descent of the Cuesta de Concual— Method of Descending — Meet our Peons from Chili— Clear the Snow— Feelings at the Time— Arrive at a deserted Guard-house — Alto del Soldado, or Soldier's Leap— Arrive at the Valley of Aconcagua— Chilian Ladies— Val- CONTENTS. XIII Page 143 172 194 ley of Quillota — Arrive at Valparaiso — Advice to Travellers — Table of Thermometrical Observa tions .

Chapter VII

Description of Valparaiso — Effects of the Earthquake — Leave Valparaiso — Arrive at Callao — Entrance to Lima — Lima Ladies — Robberies and Murders — Description of a Temblor, or Shock of an Earthquake — Dress of the Ladies of Lima — Description of a Religious Procession — Leave Lima — Island of Juan Fernandez

Chapter VIII

Affecting History of two Brothers — Gale of Wind at Sea — Arrive at Valparaiso — Leave Valparaiso —Description of a Cuesta, with troops of Mules — Arrive at Santiago — Reports of the unsettled State of the Pampas — Prepare for crossing the Andes — Climate of Chili

Chapter IX

Leave Santiago — Bad road — Arrive at Santa Rosa — Drunken Courier — Lay in Provisions for the CONTENTS. Page 214 Cordillera — Leave Santa Rosa — Enter the Andes — Remarks on Travellers — First Night in the Andes — Description of El Alto del Soldado — La Guardia de Ios Hornillos — Second Night in the Andes — Ascent of the Cuesta de Concual — As cent of the Cumbre — View from the summit of Cumbre — Descent of the Cumbre — Method of Crossing rapid Rivers — Lose two Mules in a River — Description of the Inca's Bridge — Description of the Cordillera Lions — Third Night in the Andes .....

Chapter X

Description of a Portable Canteen for the Cordillera, or Pampas — Rio de las Vacas — Its Dangers — Mules lost in crossing — A Man nearly lost- Fourth Night in the Andes — Arrive at Uspallata — View of the Cordillera— Fifth Night in the Andes — Villavicencia — Arrive at Mendoza— Bull Fight at Mendoza — Prepare for the Pampas — Engage the Courier — Leave Mendoza — Arrive at San Luis — Reports of Robbers — Head of a Robber stuck upon a Pole — Fall from a Wild Horse — Swarms of Locusts— Arrive at Frayle Muerto— Desmochado, millions of Mosquitos— Lose my Note Book— A Peon brings it back— Galloped CONTENTS. XV Page 245 274 Thirty-six Miles in Two Hours and a Half — Leave the Courier — Meet an English Merchant — Storm in the Pampas — Overtaken by Mr. Robertson — Proceed on together — Arrive at Buenos Ayres

Chapter XI

Seasons for Crossing the Cordillera — Hints to Travellers — Peculiarities of the Natives of the Pampas — How to gain their good-will — Reasons for Travelling so rapidly — Directions for Preserving the Skin in a hot Sun or cold Wind — Ladies of Buenos Ayres compared with those of Lima, Chili, 8cc. — Description of a Pampero — Washerwomen of Buenos Ayres — Religion at Buenos Ayres compared with Peru — Effects of distributing the Bible in Peru — Description of South American Houses .

Chapter XII

Leave Buenos Ayres — Run on the Chico Bank — Description of a ship on shore— Arrive at Monte Video— Arrive at Rio Janeiro— Emperor of th e Brazils, Queen of Portugal, &c— Theatres in South America compared with those of England — Re- CONTENTS. XVI Page flection on the rising of the North Star— Stormy Weather— Arrive at St. Michael's— Leave St. Michael's— Arrive in England . • 297 . 313 Conclusion

Appendix

. [A. J Outward-bound Voyage. No. I. Abstract of the Voyage from England to Rio Janeiro . . . 329 II. Abstract of the Voyage from Rio Janeiro to Monte Video . . .331 III. List ofthe Post-Houses in travelling through the Banda Oriental . . 332 IV. List of the Post-Houses in crossing the Pampas, from Buenos Ayres to Mendoza .... 333 V. List of the Posts and Casuchas, in crossing the Andes from Mendoza to Valpa- 335 raiso VI. Abstract of the Voyage from Valparaiso to Callao * * I regret to state, that the abstract of this voyage has un fortunately been lost. CONTENTS. XVII

APPENDIX.

. [B.] Homeward-bound Voyage. Page No. I. Abstract of the Voyage from Callao to Valparaiso . . . .336 II. List of the Posts and Casuchas in crossing the Andes from Valparaiso to Mendoza . 338 III. List of the Post-Houses in crossing the Pampas from Mendoza to Buenos Ayres . 339 IV. Abstract of the Voyage from Buenos Ayres to Rio Janeiro . . .341 V. Abstract of the Voyage from Rio Janeiro to England . . . 342 VI. Analysis of the Mineral Water from the hot Springs at the Inca's Bridge in the Cordillera of the Andes . . 344 b ILLUSTRATIONS. Ascending the Cumbre of the Andes. . toface the Title. Travelling on the Pampas with a relay of Horses toface Page 65 Descending the Cuesta de Concual, in the Cordillera of the Andes .... Page 155 A Lady of Lima in her Walking Dress Page 1 ERRATUM. Page 272, for three hundred and eight leagues, read three hundred and nine. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO PERU, 8$c. §c.

Chapter I

Introduction — Departure from England — Feelings of the Passengers — Pass under the Sun — Divine Service at Sea — Reflection — Cross the Equator — Neptune's Visit — Arrive at Rio Janeiro — Scenery of Rio Janeiro — Description of the Slave Market — Visit to the Botanical Garden — Sail from Rio Janeiro — Arrival at Monte Video — Prepare to Travel through the Banda Oriental. In commencing the narrative of my journey, I shall not detain my readers with any account of the nature or objects of the mission on which I was employed, as my purpose is merely to give them an account of the journey itself. I!

Introduction

. Dispensing, therefore, with all preliminary ob servations, I shall place myself at once on board his Majesty's Packet, Duke of York, sailing from Falmouth on the 23d of April, 1827, on her voyage to Monte Video, where she was to land her passengers for Buenos Ayres, in conse quence of that port being closely blockaded by the Brazilian squadron. If this had been the first time of bidding adieu to my native land, I might probably have in dulged in some reflections on the occasion; but being accustomed from my childhood to a life of wandering, such frequent departures from the shores of old England have destroyed the no velty of those sensations which necessarily arise when taking a last, long, and lingering look at the white cliffs fading from the view. I will not, therefore, weaken those feelings by attempting a description which would be devoid of all the interesting charms of novelty ; yet I could not help observing the extraordinary way in which they worked upon those who had left DEPARTURE PROM ENGLAND. their homes and country for the first time in their lives.

As they were fast losing sight of that dear land of their fathers, their hearts appeared to sink within them — every tender feeling and association seemed to arise; and from never having experienced the same sensations before, they gazed with astonishment as it receded from their view, straining their eyes to catch the last faint glimpse, until the involuntary tear con vinced them that all traces were gone, save what remained in memory alone. Then would they seek to give vent to their feelings in the privacy of their cabins, from whence might be heard many a deep-drawn sigh issuing from a heart that keenly felt what it was thus to part from all it held most dear, — probably for ever. Proceeding on our course, at the rate of 140 miles per day, with a fine fair breeze from the SW., we made Porto Santo on the 3d of May, and were fortunate enough to fall in with the NE. trade wind.

The dawn of the ensuing morning presented b2 FEELINGS OF THE PASSENGERS. to our view the beautiful island of Madeira, with its lofty summits enveloped in dark grey clouds ; and the next day we passed the Deserters, bearing West, from whence a fresh departure was taken. We soon began to feel a sensible change of temperature, accompanied by a continuance of fine weather, the effects of which were very perceptible amongst our sea-sick passengers, whose spirits beginning to revive, the stiffness natural to a first introduction, was soon exchanged for mutual cordiality; and the usual jokes were commenced upon those who had not been at sea before, (of whom there were several,) such as persuading them that porpoises were young whales, or that every sail we saw was a pirate bearing down to plunder us, &c. However ridiculous these things may appear to my readers, the degree of credibility with which they were received was highly amusing to us ; and were it not for a few of these practical jokes now and then, the monotony of a sea voyage would sometimes be very FLYING FISH. 5 irksome; for, pent up in a small vessel, the spirits will droop ; and where is recreation to be found, but in amusements so apparently trifling as these ?

On the 7th of May we crossed the tropic of Cancer, in long. 20° 8' W. Old Neptune, according to custom, hailed the ship from his in visible car, in order to procure the names of those who had not travelled in his dominions before. After receiving them, he vanished, pro mising to pay another visit at his head-quarters, (the Equator,) very much to the horror of some of our friends on board, who verily believed the ship struck upon the line. Flying-fish, and " Holothuria physalis,"' com monly called Portuguese men-of-war, now be gan to make their appearance ; and the beautiful prismatic-coloured bladders of the latter, as the sun shone upon them, reflected all the beautiful rays of sparkling emeralds. Should any person happen to touch the long fibres that hang from them, he will suffer most excruciating pain, far DIVINE SERVICE AT SEA. worse than that which is produced by stinging nettles.

On the 9th, we passed under the sun, in lat. 17° 15' N. but owing to the denseness of the atmosphere, and fine strong breeze, felt no in convenience from the heat; the thermometer standing at 72° of Fahrenheit (which I shall always quote) in the shade. The next day we passed the island of Bonavista, one of the Cape de Verds, but the weather being hazy, our view of it was very indistinct. May 11th. Sultry weather; ther. 80°. The Pole star now began to draw its course very near the horizon; a sure sign of our rapid pro gress into the southern hemisphere. May 13th. Sunday. Light winds with sultry weather; ther. 84°. Divine service was per formed by the captain ; and it was truly pleasing to observe the very great attention paid by the crew on this occasion, most of whom had their bibles and prayer-books.

The quiet and orderly behaviour of this ship's company was particu- DIVINE SERVICE AT SEA. larly remarked by Captain Lyon and the other passengers. Not a word of offensive language, or an oath was heard on board; and, it is but justice to Lieutenant Snell, the commander, to say, that no greater proof could be given of the good order and discipline of his ship. The sight was truly gratifying; for where can there be one more solemn and impressive, than a body of sailors assembled together on a ship's decks, beneath the vast canopy of heaven, floating on the mighty waters, rendering their praise to " Him, who alone spreadest out the heavens, and rulest the raging of the sea," — when every thing around them speaks so sen sibly to their minds, how dependent they are upon His mercy and goodness for protection — only a few inches of frail plank between them and eternity ; and, probably, not another human voice, save theirs, floating on the silent deep for thousands of miles around them?

Would sailors but reflect, then would they acknowledge the wonders of the Lord ! REFLECTION. It has often struck me, and may not here be inapplicable, that a sailor's life, above all others, is the one that ought to inspire him with holy thoughts and incline him to piety; having the force of his own insignificance so continually before his eyes, he cannot but hourly feel what he is in the great scale of creation. To show his constant dependence for preserv ation and protection on the goodness of the Al mighty power, and prove that he ought to feel his own insignificance in the scale of creation more than any other man, I will only place him on his own element in a little boat. Does he not feel that his sole dependence for security is in that frail bark ? But, if a breeze should spring up or the clouds darken, he flies for refuge to his ship, and soon forgets his dependence on the boat, because she is so insignificant compared to the ship.

Now, let him compare himself to the boat, then the boat to the ship, the ship to the sea, the sea to the whole universe, and the whole universe to the great Creator of all things; CROSS THE EQUATOR. then, I say, if he reflects at all, he will be as tounded, and bend in silent wonder to offer up his heartfelt gratitude to that supreme Being, who alone has so long watched over him, and wonderfully preserved him in all the dangers through which he has passed. On the 14//* of May we lost the trade wind, and experienced calm, sultry weather till the 19//*, accompanied with those heavy rains, thunder, and lightning, which are so common on nearing the equator. Many flying fish came on board, being pursued by the dolphin, albacore, &c. These little fish have many enemies to contend with, and their wings being their only means of escape, often lead them on board ships, when en deavouring to avoid their pursuers.

The light, variable winds continued till the 23d, when we got the SE. trade, and found a current setting us to the westward. On the 25th crossed the equator in longitude 27° 30' W. After dinner received our visit from the watery god, accompanied by his numerous retinue of NEPTUNE'S VISIT. nondescript amphibious animals; the usual ceremony of shaving was performed with all due solemnity on those who had not before been in a southern latitude; and it may be singular to re cord, that so great and interesting a traveller, as my friend, Captain Lyon, had never before crossed the equator; he, therefore, came in for his share of the delightful ablutions that were most liberally bestowed on the occasion by the grisly deity and his willing attendants. On the 26th, passed several large flocks of birds, and numbers of the Portuguese Men of-war before mentioned.

In the evening we were nearly run on board by the George the Fourth from Bahia, bound to Trieste; so blind was her look-out, that had we not luffed close up in the wind, and hailed her to bear away, she must have run us down. About the latitude 36° S. experienced heavy squalls of wind and rain. On the 6th of June saw Cape Frio bearing W. by N. i N. forty miles: ran all night with a fine NNE. breeze, and at ARRIVAL AT RIO JANEIRO. daybreak next morning were off the entrance of the harbour of Rio Janeiro. As the sun rose it fell nearly calm, and the land breeze headed us ; in the evening got the sea breeze, which carried us in. Passing Fort Santa Cruz on the right, they hailed us, and fired the alarm gun, accompanied by a rocket; we were soon abreast of Forts St. Joao and Lage, where we were desired to anchor, but on informing them it was his Majesty's packet, we were allowed to proceed, and cast anchor at ten p. m. off the town: thus making the passage from Falmouth in forty-five days.

June 8th. This morning had an opportunity of seeing the beautiful scenery that surrounded us — mountains beyond mountains in every direc tion. On our right was the town: the sun reflect ing its rays on the white houses, gave it a most picturesque effect ; the noble bay stretched be fore us for many miles, till the view was bounded by the lofty Organ Mountains, the summits of which have a most peculiar and remarkable form- SCENERY OF RIO JANEIRO. ation ; astern lay the entrance of the harbour, strongly protected by Forts Santa Cruz, St. Joao, and Lage. The lively and animated scene in the bay, after forty-five clays' monotony on board, did not fail to give us all a desire to be among the moving panorama which surrounded us. On landing at the palace stairs, the first object that presented itself to our view, was eight poor negroes chained neck to neck, carrying water on their heads, guarded by a black police man, with a sword for his emblem of office ; thus at once reminding us we were far removed from the land of liberty.

The slave population appears enormous here : I should say, at least ten to one. Groupes of poor negroes passed us, singing their native songs to lighten their burdens, which they carried on their heads, and always at a trot : one first sings a verse, then all the rest join chorus. These groupes consisting of from ten to twenty, are continually passing and re passing, which keeps the town in one continued noise and uproar. I never saw a place so DESCRIPTION OF THE SLAVE-MARKET. thickly populated in my life : the town had the complete appearance of a fair. Hearing that a large cargo of slaves had recently been landed, I went, in company with a friend, to the market, where this horrid traffic in human cattle (for such are they looked upon) is carried on to its great est extent. The first flesh-shop we entered contained about three hundred children, male and female; the eldest might have been twelve or thirteen years old, and the youngest not more than six or seven.

The poor little things were all squatted down in an immense ware room, girls on one side, and boys on the other, for the better inspection of the purchasers ; all their dress consisted of a blue-andwhite checked apron tied round the waist; and but for their being separated, it was impossible to distinguish boys from girls. It was a novel, but painful sight to see so many children torn from their homes and parents for such a purpose. Poor things! they were chattering, laughing, and playing with each other, as if perfectly DESCRIPTION OF THE SLAVE-MARKET. happy. As long as they remained together, my friend informed me, they were always so ; but when they began to sell off, in proportion as their numbers decreased, so their spirits fell, till at last they became dull and sullen. No won der, poor wretches !

The smell and heat of the room was very oppressive and offensive. Having my pocket thermometer with me, I observed it stood at 92°. It was then winter ; how they fare at night in the summer, when they are shut up, I do not know, for in this one room they live and sleep, on the floor, like cattle in all re spects. In the next store there were about fifty boys, of a different nation from the children : they were not in such good spirits as the little ones, probably feeling the loss of their companions, and not knowing why or wherefore they had left them, or for what purpose they re mained behind ; some might have been separated from their fathers, mothers, brothers, or sisters, and gone, they knew not where. The next store contained fewer still, about eighteen or twenty, DESCRIPTION OF THE SLAVE MARKET, &C. 15 most of them men, and four or five women ; these displayed misery in the extreme.

Some were sitting silent and sullen — others pensively awaiting their doom like oxen at the slaughter, to go — they knew not whither ! Lord Byron's description of men awaiting their doom in his poem on Darkness might here be truly applied. " Each sat sullenly apart, some lay down and wept, others hurried to and fro, and looked up with mad disquietude, others rest their chins upon their clenched hands and smiled." Yes, they did smile ; but in that smile might be traced agony and deep distress, plainly indicating the misery that was working within. This scene of horror created very painful feelings and asso ciations, which even the society of my fellow passengers, and the good dinner provided at O'Brien's hotel, was some time in totally remov ing from my mind. Saturday, June 9th. This morning made up a party to visit the botanical garden.

Not being a sufficient botanist to describe all I saw, I can VISIT TO THE BOTANICAL GARDEN. only say that I was highly gratified with the beautiful romantic ride of six miles, and pleased with all that was novel to me. Here I first saw the tea-plant. The garden was far from being in good order, and very inferior to the one at the Isle of France. The bread-fruit tree appeared in great perfection. Returning to town, I met Commodore Taylor of the Brazilian navy, whom I formerly knew at the Cape of Good Hope, as lieutenant of His Majesty's ship Blossom; he very kindly invited me to spend the day with him, which I was obliged to decline on account of our time for sailing being fixed for the following morning. His left bosom was covered with different orders re ceived from the emperor; but they could not dis guise the feelings of his heart, which still yearned for his native land.

Captain Lyon here left us, much to my regret; for in him I found a sincere friend and most in teresting companion. June 10th. We sailed for Monte Video. Find- PAMPERO. ing the blockade still remained in force, it may naturally be supposed that we were all anxiety as to how we should be able to get to Buenos Ayres. On making an offing, we got a fine steady breeze from the NNE. On the 12th, the stormy peterels, or cape pigeons, came screaming close to the ship ; this circumstance is looked upon by the sailors as the sure indication of an approaching storm : several were caught with a hook and line — they are not eatable, being very strong and oily. In the evening clouds began to rise, and lightning was observed playing about the horizon in the SW. Sail was immediately shortened, and every preparation made for what now appeared pretty evident was coming.

The lightning increased vividly, with heavy claps of thunder, which brought down torrents of rain, and it came on to blow a heavy pampero, that lay us under our close-reefed topsails, lowered down on the cap for nearly an hour, it then settled into a gale, with a heavy cross sea running, (occasioned c ARRIVAL AT MONTE VIDEO. by the sudden shift of wind,) which continued till the 15th, ending in a strong breeze from the SSE. Let sailors take warning in these lati tudes during this season of the year ; however fine the weather, when lightning is seen playing in the S W. they will do well to make all possible preparation for an approaching pampero. When we got this wind, the thermometer instantly fell from 78° to 67°. I regretted much there being no barometer on board to have observed its variation; our constitutions being susceptible, we sensibly felt the sudden transition.

From this time till the 21s/, we had light S W. winds, with cold weather, thermometer down to 50°, on which day we made the Cape St. Mary's, and on the 22?id arrived at Monte Video. At this place all the passengers were landed, and the captain sent a letter to the Brazilian admiral, craving permission for us to be allowed to proceed to Buenos Ayres in the packet, which was refused. The absurdity of passengers not being allowed to go up by the packets is PREPARING TO START. scarcely credible, for it is well known they go by land, and have to encounter the dangers of a distracted country, where many robberies are committed by the Gauchos, and deserters frequently to be met with. Passports are to be procured to carry you through the Brazilian line ; then nothing further is required, but to make the best of your way.