Norway: its people, products, and institutions

Chapter I

Page Scenery of Norway — Christiania the Capital — Hotels— Shops — Private Houses — Politeness — The Fire-brigade at Christiania — Public Buildings — The Royal Palace — The University — The Museums — Rare Birds — The public Library — Oscarshal — Norwegian Kings 1 yiiiii x___g

Chapter II

Monastic Ruins in Norway — Monastery of Hovedoen — Its Founder — Cause of its Destruction — The Castle of Agershus — Charles XII. of Sweden — Bergen — Simplicity of its Peasantry — Norwegian Betrothal — Hospitality — Trade of Bergen — Dress of the Peasantry — The "Western Coast of Norway — A Glacier — A singular Legend — Drontheim — Its Cathedral — King Olaf — His silver Coffin — Destruction of the Town by Fire — Dr. Clarke's Description of Drontheim — Tromso and Hammerfest — Products of Norwegian Lapland — A Roman Catholic Mission 13

Chapter III

Social Life in Norway — Entertainments — Absence of Home-comfort — A Tea and Supper Party — Norwegian Criticisms of England — Its Climate is discussed — A stand-up Dinner Party — The Number of Guests — A strange Custom — Dinner is announced — The Speeches — After Dinner-Amusements —A Chocolate Party VI CONTENTS .

Chapter IV

Pa-E Character ofthe Norwegians — Strange Conceits — Female Dress — Titles — Etiquette at the Dinner-table — Drinking Healths ■ — Ball-room Etiquette — Want of Refinement — Wines — A strange Custom — Filial Obedience — Etiquette in the Streets — Houses in Norway — Tradesmen — Prices of Provisions — Manufactures — Cheapness of Living in Norway .... 35

Chapter V

Society in Norway — Rich People — The Court at Christiania — A Court Ball — The King — A Minister of State — Treatment of Foreigners — Literary Men in Norway — Christmas in Norway — Christmas Trees — A kind Custom — New Year's Day in Norway — A Norwegian Betrothed — Singular Custom — An obedient Son — The Ceremony of Betrothal ... 46

Chapter VI

Superstitions of the Norwegians — The Fairy at the Dance — The Magpie — The black Woodpecker — Giants — The Giant of Edsberg — The Giant and the Tailor — Panic in the Village — Moral of the Story — The Giant's Stone — An evil Prophecy — Its Result — The little Sea-imp in Finmark — Shipwrecked Sailors in Peril 56

Chapter VII

Education in Norway — The English Language in Norway — Incompetent Teachers — French Anecdote — Selling Spirits without a Licence — English Jokes — The University at Christiania — The Professors — The Students — The Examinations — University Discipline — The " Candidatus " — The Medical School at Christiania — The Medical Men of Norway — An English quack Doctor — Lunatics— A Lunatic Asylum CONTENTS, VII Page 100

Chapter VIII

Education of the lower Orders in Norway — The National School System — Its fundamental Principles — Subjects taught in the National Schools — Obligations of Parents — The Salaries ofthe National Schoolmasters — Separate Classes for Schools — The Attendance of Scholars — The Managers- Circuits for Schoolmasters — The Board of Education — Training Schools for Schoolmasters — Payment of Teachers — The Children catechised in Church — Endowed Grammar Schools in Norway— Private Schools 78

Chapter IX

The Lutheran Church in Norway — Eeligious Feeling of the People — Religion in Country Districts — Dissenters — Number of Bishops in Norway — The different Orders of the Clergy — The Cathedral of Christiania — Its Service — Church of Hammersborg — Ancient Church of Buskeruds — Singular Superstition — The Plague in Norway — A mad Woman — ■ Singular Discovery of a Church — The Bear at the Altar — Dissenting Ministers — The Haugians — Hans Nielsen Hauge — He is imprisoned — Tidemand, the Norwegian Artist — His Picture of the Haugians 88

Chapter X

Respect for the Dead in Norway — Norwegian Burial-grounds — The departed Spirit — Funerals in rural Districts in Norway — Brief Account of a Norwegian Funeral — The religious Ceremony — The Feasting — A practical Divine — A military Funeral — A Norwegian Wedding — A singular Custom at a Marriage Ceremony — The Bridegroom's Dress — Dress of the Bride — A Marriage Ceremony in Thelemarken — The Master ofthe Ceremonies — The Musicians — The Bride and Bridegroom — The Bridesmaid — A Crowd of Peasants . CONTENTS. VIII PAOK

Chapter XI

Eidsvold— The Norwegian Constitution— How it works- Swedish Feeling towards Norway— The Norwegian Parliament — Its Opening — Its Powers — Its Members — Its President— The Allowance to Members— The Probity of the Members — Democratic Feelings of the Storthing — The new Building for the Storthing— The'personal Appearance of the Members — Crime in Norway — Honesty of the Peasants—Morals—The Law of Divorce— A divorced Couple — A simple Story — Capital Crimes and their" Punishment — The Prisons of Christiania — Lapp Prisoners — Prisoners of State — Executions in Norway Ill .

Chapter XII

The Climate of Norway — Severity of the Cold — Curious Experiment — Frost-bite— Tts Remedy — Cure for Frost-bite in Lapland — The Gulf Stream — Ice in the Christiania Fjord — Tropical Summers — The Mosquito in Norway — Its Influence on the Reindeer — Frozen Provisions — Method of conveying Timber in Winter— The Sledge— The Skie— Rival Parish Clerks — Horse Races on the Ice — The Kjœlke — Fur Coats — The Effects of Frost in Lapland — The frozen Sermon — Infant Baptism in Winter — A Norwegian Archbishop and the Pope .' 126

Chapter XIII

The domestic Manners of the Norwegians — Patriarchal Customs — A Norwegian Patriarch — The domestic Life in Towns — Hospitality — Popularity of Englishmen in Norway — Th_ Norwegian Bonde, or Peasant Farmer — Peculiar Dress of the Peasants — The Norwegian Peasant Women — Intemperance — Corn-brandy — Norwegian Cattle — Milk and Cream — Goat's Cheese — The Sætcrs — Small Farms in Norway — CONTENTS. IX Paoe Prosperity of the Teasants — A Norwegian Beggar — The public Baths at Christiania — The public Soup Kitchen — Its Management 137

Chapter XIV

The Fisheries of Norway — The Herring Fishery — A Norwegian Proverb— Salting the Herrings— The Herring Net— Peculiarities of the Herring — When it makes its Appearance off the Coast of Norway — The Herring Gull— The Fishermen —Their hard Life— The Cod Fishery— Loffoden Islands— The Cod Banks — Number of Fish taken annually — Cod-liver Oil— Description of the Loffodens — Their Products — The famous Mahlstrom— The Depth of the Cod Banks— The Leister — Fish Pudding — Smoked Fish in Norway . . . 147

Chapter XV

Christian Names of Children in Norway — St. Olaf the Patron Saint — His Silver Coffin — Music in Norway — Ole Bull — An unfortunate Speculation — Norwegian Scenery — National Songs — Sickness and Disease in Norway — Medical Men — The Law of Primogeniture — The Legal Authorities — The Amtmand — His Duties and Powers — The Police — The Royal Arms of Norway 158

Chapter XVI

The Icelandic and ancient Norse Languages — The Introduction of the Danish Language into Norway — Literature in Norway—The Professors of the University of Christiania — The ancient Norse and the Anglo-Saxon — Language of the Norwegian Peasants — National Songs in Thclemarken — The English Language and Literature in Norway — Similarity CONTENTS. X Page between the English and Norwegian Languages— The Nor wegian Grammar— History of the literary Men of Norway —Anecdote of Hanstein— The Norwegian Astronomer . . 169

Chapter XVII

Geographical Divisions of Norway — The principal Towns of Norway— The former and present Capital— The Population — The Cen sus — Emigration — The principal Mountain Ranges — The highest Mountain in Norway — Vegetation on the Mountains — A Mountain of Felspar — A grand Prospect — The Glaciers — The Pass of Nystuen — A strange Reason for the Destruction of the Church — Sncehatten — Romsdalhorn — An adventuresome Blacksmith — The Pass of Kringlen — An affecting Incident — The Lakes of Norway 180

Chapter XVIII

The.Waterfalls of Norway — The Rjukandfos — Its Height — Its Description by a Norwegian Poet — The Maristien — The Honefos — Ancient Kings of Norway — A beloved Sovereign — Charles XII. of Sweden — A brave Clerg5 .nan's Wife — Krogleven — The Sarpsfos — Its Height — The Power of Water over Stone — An affecting Incident — The Voringsfos — Its Height — Its Description — The Rivers of Norway — The Fjords — The west Coast of Norway — Names of the principal Fjords 190

Chapter XIX

The VaUeys of Norway — G udbrandsdalen — Sætersdalen — Pine Bark for Bread — A peculiar Garment — A happy and contented People — Hallingdai — Strange Customs — The Parson and the Jumper — A Feat of Strength — A high Jump — Amicable Encounters — Hitterdal — Good Roads — A gloomy Prospect — Tistcdalen — Fredericksteen — The Valleys of Thele- CONTENTS. XI Page marken— The Guuldal— Clarke's Description of it—Christi ansand — The Station for the Norwegian Navy — Drobak — Eidsvold-bakken— The Thana-fjord— The North Cape . .201

Chapter XX

History of Norway from 1319 — The Salique Law — The Junction of Norway with Sweden — Dissimilar Feelings of the two Nations — Prevention of a Civil War — The Union of Sweden, Norway, and Denmark — The Treaty of Calmar — Gustavus Vasa — Abdication of Gustavus IV., King of Sweden — Marshal Bernadotte — Compact between the Crown Prince of Sweden and the Emperor of Russia — Persecution of the Press — Oscar I. — The present King of Sweden and Norway — The Queen — The Norwegian Constitution — Designs of Russia 211

Chapter XXI

Norwegian Lapland — A Lapp's Tent — Its Strength — A Lapp's Bed — Cooking Utensils — A Lapp's Baby — Its Cradle — A smoky Dwelling — Lapp Costumes — Reindeer Harness — The Lapp's Boots — His Fondness for Tobacco — Tobacco Pouch • — A Pipe Cleaner — Drinking Cups — Humility of the Lapps ■ — Their Character — Female Smokers — A thick Coat — A Knife Belt — Silver Tassels — A wealthy Lapp — Master and Servants — Reindeer Dogs — Food of the Lapps — Theh* Hospitality 221

Chapter XXII

The English Travellers and their Lapp Guide — A bald Head — Astonishment of the Lapp — A sick Traveller among the Lapps — Superstitious Feelings — A bad Omen — Spilled Milk — Reindeer Cheese — Frozen Reindeer Cream — The tame Reindeer — Its Utility — A Lapp Lady — Reindeer Harness — ■ CONTENTS. Fa.k The Sledge — Vicious Temper of the Reindeer — Its Enemies — Milking the Reindeer — The Lasso — Food of the Reindeer — Religion among the Lapps — A Scene in Church . . . 230

Chapter XXIII

Travelling in Norway — The necessary Clothing for Travellers — Provisions — The Carriole — The Norwegian Horses — Tho Postboy — Delays on the Journey — The proper Time for a Start — Norwegian Money — Lady Travellers in Norway — ■ Sport in Norway — Where to be found — The Game Laws — The principal Salmon Fisheries, with their Situations — Hints to Travellers NORWAY.

Chapter I. Scenery Of Norway

— CHRISTIANIA THE CAPITAL — HOTELS — SHOPS PRIVATE HOUSES — POLITENESS THE PIRE-BRIGADE AT CHRIS- TIANIA PUBLIC BUILDINGS — THE ROYAL PALACE — THE UNIVER- SITY THE MUSEUMS RARE BIRDS — THE PUBLIC LIBRARY OSCARSHAL NORWEGIAN KINGS. Norway is a country of contrasts. The English traveller on approaching its shores, and looking at its bold and rugged mountains, covered with fir trees almost to their summits, would hardly imagine that it is a country within which the most varied and picturesque scenery is to be found. Nature, certainly, appears in the most majestic and attractive forms in Norway. It has extensive glaciers, rendered terrible by walls of ice and huge crevasses. It has ranges of mountains crowned with perpetual snows, but relieved, here and there, by a charming variety of wild flowers.

Then there are long fjords, mighty rivers, majestic waterfalls, extensive lakes, and smiling valleys. Christiania, the capital of Norway, is situated at NORWAY. the head of the fjord of the same name, about 84 English miles from the sea. The town was founded by King Christian IV., in 1624. The valley that surrounds it is considered one of the most fertile and picturesque in the country. The heights round it covered with firs, the handsome country-houses, the smiling orchards, and the abundant cornfields, the numerous well-wooded islands, and the ships at anchor in the fjord, form altogether a most delight ful prospect. There are few good hotels at Christiania. The Victoria, which is the favourite with English tourists, is a really comfortable house ; while the Hotel du Nord is but little inferior to it.

The Hotel Scan dinavie, and the Hotel d'Angleterre, are good and cheap houses. The breakfast at a Norwegian hotel is a substantial meal. It consists of excellent coffee and cream, hot rolls, slices of ham eaten raw, kip pered salmon, fresh eggs, lobsters, and raw red herrings. Never ask for tea at a Norwegian house, the people do not know how to make it, and appro priately call the manufacture of it thi-vand, or tea water. The ordinary dinner of this country consists of soup, fish of various kinds, cooked in a superior manner, followed by baked meats, Preserved fruits, especially wild strawberries, are always eaten with the meat ; when this last is finished, a plate of salted SHOPS AT CHRISTIANIA. cucumber, d la Rxs.se, is handed round, and this is followed by various kinds of puddings. Fruit-tarts are unknown in Norway, but the dessert is good.

The liquids at dinner consist of Norwegian ol — an excellent imitation of Bavarian beer, — -claret, and light German wines. Port and sherry seldom appear at a Norwegian table. The supper (for in this country only three meals a day are eaten) is very similar to the breakfast, except that bottled beer generally takes the place of coffee, while a small glass of aquavit, or strong corn-brandy, begins the meal, and is supposed to give a zest to the appetite. The shops of Christiania are not of a very showy character. The best are to be found in the Ostrc gaden, which is in a direct line with the Royal Palace. The tradesmen in this country are blunt and independent, and seem to consider the obligation of buying an article to be ahnost compulsory. On entering a shop it is customary to remove one's hat, and remain uncovered while making purchases, as a mark of respect to the shopkeeper.

It is not the custom in this country for families to reside in houses by themselves. Large barrack-like buildings are erected in the towns, and are let out in flats, each of which is rented by a single family. This interferes sadly with the comfort and privacy of livine: in one's own house. The entrance to the NORWAY. house, or gaard, is by a huge porte-cochere, which leads to a large yard, around which, in tiers, are situated the apartments. One large gaard of this kind was pointed out to us in Christiania, as being inhabited by 300 people. It is not surprising, therefore, that epidemics are very prevalent in the town. The temperature of an apartment in a Norwegian house is something extraordinary to a foreigner. The air is dry, hot, and stifling, and soon affects the heads of those who are not used to it.

The rooms are heated by iron stoves, which burn wood, sometimes birch, but more commonly pine. A few English grates, to burn coal, have found their way into this countrj', but do not appear to be much liked. In fact, the severe climate of Norway renders a wood fire an absolute necessity. Norwegian houses are well and tastefully furnished, but carpets are seldom used. The floors are painted of different colours, and are then var nished. The principal table in an apartment is placed on the side of it, not in the centre as in England. The sofa or couch is near the table. Household furniture is mostly made of birch, which grows abundantly in the country, and is cheap. Walnut, mahogany, and other fancy woods are not often seen, except in the houses of rich people ; as the import duty on all foreign woods and furniture SIGN-BOARDS. is exorbitantly high.

The duties, in fact, on all imports are so high that they are almost pro hibitory. The calling of a tradesman in a Norwegian town is made known to the general public by a sign hung up over his doorway. Thus the ironmonger hangs up a coal-box, a poker, and a pair of tongs, flanked by a dust-pan and a shovel ; the tanner exhibits a piece of leather to make known his occupation ; the glover a large, painted glove, of a bright colour ; while the wine merchant hangs out a bunch of grapes of a size unknown to nature. Such signs would afford irre sistible temptations to the gamins of any other country but Norway ; here, however, malicious injury to person or property is unknown. The peaceable passenger may walk unmolested through the streets of a Norwegian town at any hour of the night, while policemen are few and far between.

Christiania has shared the fate of most Norwegian towns, by having' had large parts of it frequently destroyed by fire. Every town of any size in this country has gone through the ordeal of fire. This is solely to be attributed to the fact that hitherto Norwegian houses have been constructed entirely of wood. In a country like this, possessing vast forests, wood is the cheapest building material, and has been used in preference to stone. By a wise regidation NORWAY. made by the Storthing, or Norwegian Parliament, within the last few years, no building of wood alone is now allowed to be erected in Christiania. The town suffered, a few years since, from an extensive conflagration, which destroyed more than 400 houses. That part of it then consisted of old, ugly, and rickety wooden houses. The fire consumed them all, and handsome edifices — many of them faced with Portland stone — have now taken the place of the ancient wooden tenements.

It only remains for the ancient suburb of Oslo to be burnt in like manner, when Christiania will become a really hand some city. The fire-brigade at Christiania is well managed, and although the engines are small, and apparently unserviceable, such is not the case. We witnessed a large fire at Christiania, while we were residing in the town, and as the buildings contained spirits and other inflammable articles, we could not help smiling when the engines began to play on the burning mass. Equally to our surprise, however, the fire was extinguished with remarkable rapidity. When one comes to look at the public buildings of a city in a foreign land, it is well to consider the ways and means of its people. Now, Norway is a poor country, and the people show their good sense by making their public edifices substantial and THE ROYAL PALACE, ETC. useful rather than ornamental.

Among the most interesting public buildings in the capital of Norway the first place may fairly be given to the Royal Palace, which stands on a gentle eminence at the west end of the town, and commands a fine view of the fjord, the neighbouring hills, and the harbour with its shipping. The Carl Johan Gaden, leading to the Palace, contains the University and pubhc library, as well as the handsome building recently erected for the Storthing. The street is the finest in the town, and although badly drained, it would be a creditable thoroughfare for a much more important capital city than Christiania. It is wide and straight, and it will shortly have some pretty public gardens in front of it. It may be considered the favourite promenade of the townspeople. In front of the Royal Palace there is a good view of the range of mountain hills, called the Egeberg ; while the hand some country-houses in the distance, and the waters of the fjord glistening through the trees, make up a landscape almost unrivalled in its nature.

It has been pronounced by travellers one of the most beautiful prospects in Europe ; on the horizon we see the mountains of Asker and Bœrum. The Royal Palace itself is a plain building, in the style of the antique, with pillars and an arcade, and wings at cither end. The passing tourist will find it well NORWAY. worth a visit, and it may be seen by giving a small gratuity to the housekeeper. Inside the building one saloon is in the Renaissance, while the chapel is in the Byzantine style. The gardens surrounding the palace are free to the public, and are prettily laid out. They have an ornamental water in the centre, on which there are swans and ducks in summer. A sleepy sentinel may be seen in front of the building, pacing his weary round, but, looking at him, one is doubtful if he knows why he is placed there, for he will let one go up and peep through the windows without interfering in any way.

He is only capable of a drowsy stare. During the union of Norway with Denmark it had no university of its own, nor was it permitted to establish one, so that the Norwegian youth, even so far north as Finmark or Lapland, were obliged to proceed, at great trouble and expense, to the Uni versity of Copenhagen. This was carrying out a system of centralisation, and is but an instance of how Norway was oppressed while under Danish rule. Now, to render the hardship of this state of things more apparent, we should state that, before any young man in Norway can be appointed to a public situation under Government, he must prove that he has received a university education. When Norway was morally, although THE UNIVERSITY AT CHRISTIANIA. 9 not actually, separated from Denmark, — that is to say, three years before the actual separation took place, — King Frederick YL, of Denmark, allowed the Norwegians to establish a university of their own at Christiania.

For a few years the necessary rooms were hired in private houses in the town, until a grant was made from the public treasury ; and when this was done, liberal subscriptions came in from all parts of the country towards the erection of the present university buildings. At length, in 1839, the Storthing passed a decree that the present University should be built ; and two years afterwards the foundation-stone was laid, with the usual cere monies on such occasions. In the year 1851, the University was ready for occupation. It was erected at the end of the principal street in Christiania, in a direct line with, and not far from, the Royal Palace. It is in a pleasant situation, and although, properly speaking, on the outskirts of the town, it is not far from the centre of business. The buildings are three in number, and consist of lecture-rooms, museums, and a large public library.

Each edifice is con venient, substantial, and good, but minus archi tectural display of any kind. The centre building has a handsome portal, with a figure of Minerva over it, as typical of the wisdom to be found within. A flight or two of stone steps, with four large Ionian NORWAY. columns of polished Norwegian granite, outside the entrance, and fourteen smaller columns on the inside, are the only embellishments. There are excellent museums of zoology, mineralogy, ethnology, geology, and botany here. The Zoological Museum contains an interesting collection. It has a specimen of almost every bird, beast, fish, or insect, to be found in the country, as well as a large number of speci mens from foreign parts. Here may be seen noble examples of the Norwegian elk and reindeer, golden and sea eagles, no less than six specimens of that rare bird the Lapland gray owl (strix Lapponica) ; several specimens of the Norwegian lynx (felis lynx), and the largest pair of reindeer horns to be seen in Europe.

There is also a good specimen of ,he common brown bear (ursus Arctus), which was shot in the south of Norway. Adjoining the museums, and forming a wing of the University buildings, is the large public library, which contains more than 130,000 volumes, and many valuable maps. It has many rare works in it. Respectable inhabitants of the town are permitted to take home books, and keep them for a reasonable time, provided they are introduced by two house holders. Works with valuable plates in them, as well as atlases with rare maps, are not allowed to be removed from the building, but they may be con- A ROYAL RETREAT. suited by students in a large and comfortable apart ment kept for the purpose. Frequent additions are made to the library by the committee of management. Oscarshal. The lover of the picturesque will not fail, on visiting Christiania, to inspect the royal summer retreat above named, which is situated on the small peninsula of Ladegardsoen, about two Enghsh miles from the town itself.

This pretty httle summer residence belonged to the Crown from very early times, and was presented by King Hacon Y. to his queen, Euphemia of Rugin, who frequently held her Court there, and danced herself on the green sward, attended by her lords and ladies, who were all habited in sylvan costumes. The daughter of Euphemia presented it to the monastery of Hovedoen. When the Reformation caused all monastic orders to be dispersed, Ladegardsoen reverted to the Crown. In 1838 it became the private property of the King Carl Johan, In 1847 King Oscar erected the pretty castellated villa which is called Oscarshal. It is built in the Anglo-Gothic, or Elizabethan style. The dining-saloon contains the original paintings of Norwegian peasant life, by Tidemand, a native artist of considerable reputation.

The drawing-room con tains medallions of celebrated Norwegian statesmen. NORWAY. Here also are to be found the statues of four Nor wegian kings : viz., Olaf Tryggevson, who is supposed to have founded the city of Throndjem, better known to us as Drontheim ; then there is Olaf the Holy, not only the most celebrated of Norwegian Icings, but still the patron saint of the people, who, according to tradition, has performed many miracles ; then there are statues of King Sverre and of Harold the Fair. They are all by a Throndjem sculptor, named Michelsen, who was a pupil of Thorwaldsen. Oscarshal is situated amidst the most romantic scenery. On one side may be seen the fortress and town of Christiania, with the handsome villas at its western end. In the distance are the bold and well wooded hills of Voxenaas and Grefsenaas ; while in front are the pleasant waters of the fjord, dotted here and there with islands, stretching away in the distance to the shores of the Bunde-fjord, where the fir-woods reach down to the water's edge.

Chapter II. Monastic Ruins In Norway

— MONASTERY OF HOVEDOEN — ITS FOUNDER CAUSE OF ITS DESTRUCTION THE CASTLE OF AGERSHUS CHARLES XII. OP SWEDEN — BERGEN — SIMPLICITY OF ITS PEA- SANTRY NORWEGIAN BETROTHAL HOSPITALITY TRADE OF BERGEN DRESS OF THE PEASANTRY THE WESTERN COAST OF NORWAY A GLACIER A SINGULAR LEGEND DRONTHEIM ITS CATHEDRAL KING OLAF HIS SILVER COFFIN DESTRUCTION OF THE TOWN BY FIRE — DR. CLARKE'S DESCRIPTION OF DRONTHEIM TROMSO AND HAMMERFEST PRODUCTS OF NORWEGIAN LAPLAND A ROMAN-CATHOLIC MISSION. Although Norway is not a country that is in any way remarkable for its monastic ruins, the remains of fifteen monasteries are still to be found in different parts. One of them is to be seen on an island in the Christiania fjord, not far from the town itself. Near the Castle of Agershus, the present fortress of Christiania, is a group of islands which separate the Bay of Bjorvig from the Bunde-fjord.

It is difficult for a stranger to discover the exact position of places in these fjords, but we may state that the largest of these islands is called Hovedoen, and the ruins of a monastery of Cistercian monks are to be seen in the centre of it. The monastery was built by a colony of Enghsh monks who came from Lin colnshire. Opposite to Hovedoen is the old town of NORWAY. Oslo, the site of the present city of Christiania. Hovedoen's Kloster Kirke, or monastery, is said to have been founded by St. Edmund, who also erected the Castle of Agershus, as well as the singular old church of Ager at Oslo, which is well worth a visit from the tourist who is partial to antiquities. The monastery of Hovedoen was destroyed for the following reasons. Christian IL, King of Norway, was banished from his throne and country on account of his tyrannical conduct towards his people.

Having collected an army, he sailed up the Christiania fjord to Oslo, and attacked the Castle of Agershus. The commandant of the castle took the side of the people, while the Abbot of Hovedoen, being a courtier, followed the king. When, therefore, Christian was compelled to raise the siege, he left the poor abbot behind, and the commandant of the castle, out of revenge, destroyed the monastery and expelled the monks. The Castle of Agershus, which is built on the mainland directly opposite the island of Hove doen, was formerly a very strong fortress. It was besieged by Charles XII. of Sweden, who was obliged to retire for want of provisions. The Swedish king was in the habit of walking about the streets of Christiania, when the soldiers of the castle always fired at him, but such a fire-eater as Charles was not disposed to pay much attention to their THE TOWN OF BERGEN. missiles.