Excursions in North Wales, including Aberystwith and the Devil's Bridge ... Third edition, with corrections and additions made during excursions in the year 1838, by his son, W. R. Bingley ... With a ... map by J. and C. Walker

Preface

TO THE SECOND EDITION. In the summer of the year 1798 I was first in duced, from the various accounts that had reached me respecting the grandeur of the mountain scenery of North Wales, to appropriate three months to a ramble through all its most interest ing parts. I accordingly set out from Cambridge (where I was then resident) soon after the com mencement of the long vacation, and proceeded, in the cross-country coaches, immediately to Chester. From Chester I leisurely skirted the north coast of Wales, along the great Irish road,* through St. Asaph and Conway, to Bangor. At Caernarvon 1 remained for a considerable time, * Except only in going from the village of Northop lo Flint, and thence to Holywell, in the whole not more than eight miles. X PRETACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. VI making excursions in all directions among the mountains, and through the principal parts of the island of Anglesey.

When I had examined all the places that I could learn were worth notice, I continued my route entirely round the country, visiting in my course Harlech, Barmouth, Dol gelley, Machynlleth, Llanidloes, Newtown, Mont gomery, Welsh Pool, Oswestry, Wrexham, and Mold. From Mold I crossed over (towards the interior) to Ruthin, and proceeded through Llan gollen, Corwen, and Bala, to Shrewsbury, whence, in the month of September, I returned to Cam bridge. Not satisfied with this single journey, I returned into North Wales, in the year 1801, and resided there four months more ; during June, July, Au gust, and September. In this latter excursion my time was chiefly occupied in examining the coun ties of Caernarvon and Merioneth, and the island of Anglesey, visiting again, in these counties, all the places that I had before seen, ascending most of the principal mountains, and searching around for other new and interesting objects. Previously to my first journey, I had made se veral tours through nearly all the romantic parts

PREFACE.

TO THE SECOND EDITION. VII of the North of England. I can, however, with truth declare, that, taken in the whole, I have not found these by any means so interesting as four of the six counties of North Wales, namely, Den bighshire, Caernarvonshire, Merionethshire, and Anglesey. The traveller of taste (in search of grand and stupendous scenery,) the naturalist, and the antiquary, have all, in this romantic country, full scope for their respective pursuits. My mode of travelling was principally as a pedestrian, but sometimes I took horses, and at other times proceeded in carriages, as I found it convenient. A traveller on foot, if in health and spirits, has, in my opinion, many advantages over all others : of these the most essential is that complete independence of every thing but his own exertions, which will enable him, without difficulty, to visit and examine various places that are altogether inaccessible to persons either in carriages or on horseback.

From my first entrance into the country I had formed a determination, if I found my observa tions sufficiently interesting, to lay the result of them before the public. This I did in my Tour round North Wales, published about ten years

PREFACE.

TO THE SECOND EDITION. ago. Till that journey was nearly completed, no tour of any importance, later than that of Mr. Pennant, (originally published in 1778,) had come to my knowledge. I had not then heard of those either of Mr. Aiken, Mr. Warner, or Mr. Skrine, and therefore, not without reason, considered my self as filling an unoccupied place in British topo graphy. The work, notwithstanding there were no fewer than half a dozen others of a nearly simi lar nature, published about the same time, was so well received by the public, as to afford reason able hopes of success to fresh exertions.

PREFACE.

TO THE THIRD EDITION. Several years have elapsed since the publication ofthe late Rev. W. Bingley's Excursions in North Wales, during which many and extensive altera tions have taken place; for instance, the roads from Shrewsbury to Holyhead, from Chester to Bangor, from Caernarvon to Llanberis, and se veral others, have either been wholly formed or reconstructed ; the Menai and Conway Bridges have been erected; the embankment at Tremadoc completed, and the celebrated Parys Mines nearly exhausted. These circumstances made corre spondent alterations in the book necessary, and rendered it impossible any longer to preserve the tour in the form of a personal narrative : they also made it advisable to alter in part the route

PREFACE.

TO THE THIRD EDITION. X prescribed and adopted by the late Rev. W. Bingley, and to substitute that laid down in the following pages, which was in a great measure pursued by the Editor himself. This route has been made to comprize Aberystwith and the De vil's Bridge ; for these places, though in South Wales, owing to the character of the scenery in their neighbourhood, and to their being close upon the borders, may almost be considered as a part of North Wales. The tourist by following it will be enabled to see nearly every object of the slightest interest in North Wales without re tracing his steps. Some of the objects described in the following pages may perhaps be interesting to the antiquary alone, and these the tourist, who is in search merely of the beauties of nature, may neglect to visit; indeed, in all cases, persons must be guided by time and circumstances in planning the route which they are to take: but by referring to the index, they will in general be able to find not only a description of the places they intend to visit, but likewise of the scenery accompanying the roads which lead to and from these places.

PREFACE.

TO THE THIRD EDITION. XI The accompanying Map is by Messrs. J. and C. Walker, slightly altered under the Editor's own superintendence, in order the more com pletely to serve the purposes of this book, and he believes that for its size, it will be found the most correct and intelligible of any yet published of North Wales. 2, Charlotte Stbeet, Bloomsbury, May 7th, 1839. CONTENTS. ■*^si_«*' Introductory Chapter. Roads — Inns — Means of Conveyance — Guides — Prominent Objects and Scenery — Language Page x__tiii Chap. I. Shrewsbury — Oswestry — Watt's Dyke — Ossa's Dyke — Brynkinalt I Chap. II. CHIRK TO LLANGOLLEN, (7 Miles.) Chirk — Ellesmere Canal — Aqueduct — Chirk Castle — History of Chirk Castle — Pont Cysyllty Aqueduct — Llangollen — Plas Newydd — Castell Dinas Bran — Vale of Crucis — Valley Crucis Abbey — Pillar of Eliseg 23 Chap. III.

LLANGOLLEN TO CAPEL CURIG, (37J Miles.) The Vale of the Dee — Owen Glyndwr's Palace— Owen Glyndwr — Corwen — Cefyn Creini — Pont y Glyn or Pont Diffwys — Cerig y Druidion — Cernioge Mawr — Scenery at 48th and 47th Milestones from Holyhead — Waterloo Bridge — Bettws y Coed — Pont y Pair — Rhaidr y Wennol — Capel Curig — Moel Shiabod — Dolwyddelan Castle — Dolwyddelan — Penmachno — Yspytty Evan— Ascent of Snowdon . CONTENTS. XIV Chap. IV. CAPEL CURIG TO BANGOR, (14£ Miles.) Y Trivaen— Llyn Ogwen— Rhaiadr Benglog— Nant Frangon— Carnedd David — Carnedd Llewelyn— Mr. Pennant's Slate Quarries— Ogwen Bank— Penhryn Castle— Monuments in Llandegai Church — Port Penhryn— Bangor— History of Bangor Cathedral— Menai Bridge . 49 Chap. V. ANGLESEY— HOLYHEAD ISLAND-SKERRIES. Ferries — Battle near Bangor Ferry — Llanddwyn Abbey — Llanedwen — Battle at Moel y Don— Plass Newydd— List of Cromlechs in Anglesey — Wine Houses — Amlwch — Parys Copper Mines — Llanelian — Goronwy Owen — Pentraeth — Plas Gwynn — Beaumaris — Beaumaris Castle — History of Beaumaris Castle — Bay of Beaumaris — Baron Hill — Llanvaes — Penmon — Holyhead — South Stack Lighthouse — The Skerries 65 Chap. VI.

BANGOR TO CAERNARVON, (9 Miles.) Caernarvon — Caernarvon Castle— Birth of Edward first Prince of Wales — History of Caernarvon Castle — Roman City of Segontium . 87 Chap. VII. EXCURSION FROM CAERNARVON TO THE NANTLLE POOLS. Glangwna — View — Ascent to the Summit of Moel Aelir, and View from thence — Bettws — Nant Mill — -Llyn Cwellyn — Castle Cidwm. — Tradition respecting the Giant Cidwm — Llyn y Dywarchen — Nantlle Pools — Mountain Pass — Beautiful Views — Slate Quarries .... 95 Chap. VIII. EXCURSION FROM CAERNARVON INTO THE PROMON- TORY OF LLYN, &c. The Promontory of Llyn— Dinas Dinlle and other ancient Forts— Clynog CONTENTS. XV — Beuno's Chapel and Chest — Curiosities in the Neighbourhood of Clynog— Nevin— Porthdinllyn— Pwllheli — Island of Bardsey— History of Bardsey— Hell's Mouth— Criccieth aud Castle— Howel y Fwyall— Penmorfa— Sir John Owen 100 Chap. IX.

CAERNARVON TO LLANBERIS, (10 Miles.) Road — Cwm y Clo — Vale of Llanberis — Lakes— Margaret Uch Evan — Dolbadarn Castle^Slate Quarry — Caunant Mawr— Copper Mine — Village of Llanberis 112 Chap. X. EXCURSION FROM LLANBERIS TO THE SUMMIT OF TRIVAEN, &c. Llyn y Cwm — Llyn Idwal — Tull Du — Trivaen — Glyder Bach — Glyder Fawr — Evening Scene in Llanberis — Plants found near Tull Du 118 Chap. XI. EXCURSION FROM DOLBADARN TO THE SUMMIT OF SNOWDON. Instructions to the Tourist — Height of Snowdon — Prospect from the Summit — Name — Royal Forest — Clogwyn y Garnedd — List of Snowdon Plants — Well near the Summit — Copper Mine — Further Instructions to the Tourist 126 Chap. XII. DOLBADARN TO BEDDGELERT, (14 Miles.) The Pass of Llanberis — The Cromlech — Caddy of Cwm Glas— GorphwySfa — Nant Hwynan or Gwynant — Rhaiadr Cwm Dyli — Cwm Llan Llyn y Dinas — Dinas Emrys — Beddgelert — Llewellyn and his Dog — Poem founded on this Story — Priory 131 EXCURSION FROM BEDDGELERT TO THE SUMMIT OF SNOWDON.

CONTENTS. XVI CHAr. XIII. BEDDGELERT TO TAN Y BWLCH, (By Tremadoc 14£ Miles.) Pont Aberglasliyu — Tradition respecting the Flridge — Salmon Leap — Roads to Tan y Bwlch— Tremadoc— Embankment— Tan y Bwlch— Vale of Ffestiniog 144 EXCURSION FROM TAN Y BWLCH TO THE FALLS OF THE CYNFAEL. Village of Ffestiniog— Falls of the Cynfael 149 Chap. XIV. TAN Y BWLCH TO HARLECH, (10 Miles.) Maentwrog — Falls of the Velen Rhydd — Harlech — Harlech Casth — History of Harlech Castle— Mephitic Vapour 151 EXCURSION FROM HARLECH TO CWM BYCHAN, &c. Cylch Cyngrair or Druidical Circles — Cwm Bychan — Bwlch Tyddiad — Drws Ardudwy — Cromlech — Sam Badrig — Cantref Gwaelod . 157 Chap. XV HARLECH TO DOLGELLEY, (20 Miles.) Road from Harlech to Barmouth — Meini Gwyr — Cromlechs — Barmouth — Beach and River — Road from Barmouth to Dolgelley — Dolgelly — Nannau — Howel Sele — Old Oak 160 EXCURSION FROM DOLGELLEY TO KEMMER ABBEY AND THE WATERFALLS.

Y Vanner, or Kemmer Abbey— History of the Abbey— Rhaiadr Du — Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach — Pistyll-y-Cain CONTENTS. XVII Chap. XVI. CADER IDRIS. Origin of the Name of the Mountain — Places from whence it is usually ascended— Ascent from Dolgelley— Ascent from the Blue Lion — Ascent from Barmouth — View from the Summit of Cader Tdris . 170 Chap. XVII. DOLGELLEY TO MACHYNLLETH, (By the direct road 16} Miles.) View of Dolgelley— The Pool of the Three Pebbles— Llyn-Tal-y-llyn— Road to Machynlleth — Machynlleth 173 DOLGELLEY TO MACHYNLLETH, BY TOWYN AND ABERDOVEY. (30 Miles.) Towyn — Tebeni — Ynysymaengwyn — Aberdovey — Road to Machynlleth 175 DOLGELLEY TO MACHYNLLETH BY DINAS MOWDDWY AND MALLWYD, (24 Miles.) Dinas Mowddwy — Mallwyd — Waterfall at Pont Vallwyd — Yew Trees 177 Chap. XVIII. MACHYNLLETH TO ABERYSTWITH, (18 Miles.)

Road to Aberystwith — Tre Taliesin — Aberystwith — History of Aberystwith Castle 178 b CONTENTS. Chap. XIX. ABERYSTWITH TO LLANIDLOES, (By the Old Road 30 Miles -by Pont Erwydd 28 Miles.) Roads to Llanidloes— Pont Erwydd — Road from Pont Erwydd to the Devil's Bridge — Ysptty Cynfyn — The Parson's Bridge — Plynlimmon — Sources ofthe Rivers Severn, Wye, and Rheidol — Llanidloes. 182 Chap. XX. LLANYDLOES TO MONTGOMERY, (22 Miles.) View of the Country — Anecdote of Edward Herbert, Esq. — Newtown — Cataract — Castell Dolforwyn — History of the Castle — View near Abermule — Montgomery — Church — Castle — History of Castle — Leland's Description of the Town — The Cucking Stool formerly in use there 187 Chap. XXI. MONTGOMERY TO OSWESTRY, (23i Miles.) Welsh Pool— Powis Castle— History of Powis Castle— The Breiddin Hills — The River Vyrnwy — Llanymynech — Llanymynech Hill and Cavern called Ogo 195 Chap. XXII.

OSWESTRY TO BALA, (30 Miles.) Llangedwen Hall— Road leading to Llanrhaiadr — Pistyll Rhaiadr — Vale of Llangynog — Village of Llangynog — Plan for Pedestrians to adopt in visiting Pistyll Rhaiadr— Slate Quarries — Lead Mines— Berwyn Mountains— Rhiwedog— Vale of Edeirnion — Bala— Bala Lake— Account of Fish called Gwyniadds found there CONTENTS. XIX EXCURSION ROUND BALA LAKE. The Vale of Twrch — Phenomenon called Daear Dor — Castell Corndochon —Caer Gai— The River Dee 207 Chap. XXIII. BALA TO RUTHIN, (23 Miles by the shortest Road.) The Vale of Edeirnion — Llanfawr — The Welsh Bard Llywarch Hen — Llanderfel — St. Derfel Gadarn — Execution of Friar Forest and singular Completion of a Prophecy — The Village of Cynwyd— Rhaiadr Cynwyd Ruthin — Ruthin Castle — History of the Town and Castle . . 211 Chap. XXIV.

Wrexham — Church and Monuments — Elihu Yale — Wrexham Fair — Holt — Holt Castle — History of Holt Castle — Caergwrle — History of Caergwrle Castle — Mold — History of Mold Castle — Maes Garmen and the "Alleluia" Victory — Ruabon — Church and Monuments — Dr. David Powell — Wynnstay — Nant y Bellan — Newbridge— Overton — Bangor Iscoed 220 Chap. XXV. WREXHAM TO CHESTER, (11 Miles.) Road to Chester— Acton Park— Gresford— Eaton Hall— Chester New Brido-e Chester— Rows — Walls— Phœnix Tower— Roodee — Cathedral— Churches— Castle— Glover's Stone— Hypocaust— Ancient Crypt —Public Buildings — Sketch of the History of Chester — Singular Events— Dr. Cole— James I.— Manufactures and Trade . . 238 b CONTENTS. XX Chap. XXVI. CHESTER TO NORTHOP, (11 Miles.) Hawarden — Hawarden Castle — History of Hawarden Castle — Euloe Castle— Coed Euloe— Northop 251 Chap. XXVII.

NORTHOP TO HOLYWELL, (By Flint 9 Miles.) Flint— Flint Castle— Holywell— St. Wenefred's Well— Legend of St. Wenefred — Basingwerk Abbey — Basingwerk Castle .... 256 Chap. XXVIII. HOLYWELL TO ST. ASAPH. (10 Miles.) Lead Mines — Calamine — Downing — Notice of Mr. Thomas Pennant — Vale of Clwyd — St. Asaph — History of the Cathedral — View of the Vale of Clwyd from the Tower of the Cathedral 267 Chap. XXIX. EXCURSION FROM ST. ASAPH UP THE VALE OF CLYWD AS FAR AS RUTHIN AND BACK. (28 Miles.) Denbigh — Denbigh Castle — History of Denbigh Castle — Llanrhaiadr 276 Chap. XXX. ST. ASAPH TO CONWAY, (By Rhyddlan 19 Miles.) Rhyddlan — Morfa Rhyddlan — Rhyddlan Castle— History of Rhyddlan CONTENTS. XXI Castle— Rhyl— Diserth— Diserth Castle— Cefu Ogo— Pearl Fishery— Conway — The Suspension Bridge — Conway Castle — History of Conway Castle— Plas Mawr . 283 Chap. XXXI.

EXCURSION FROM CONWAY ROUND THE CREIDDIN. Creiddin — Diganwy — Taliesin, the British Bard — Llandudno — Hwylfar Ceirw — Copper Mines — Orme's Head — Gloddaeth — Bodscallon — Marl 299 Chap. XXXII EXCURSION FROM CONWAY TO LLANRWST AND BACK . (24 Miles.) Vale of Conway — Caer Rhun — Account of some Discoveries there — Rhaiadr Mawr or 'Porthlwyd — Rhaiadr Delgarrog — Town of Llanrwst Church — Gwydir — Llanrwst Bridge 305 Chap. XXXIII. CONWAY TO BANGOR, (14J Miles.) Penmaen Bach — Penmaen Mawr — Road to Bangor — Ascent to the Summit of Penmaen Mawr — Aber— Rhaiadr Du 311 Chap. XXXIV VOYAGE FROM LIVERPOOL TO BANGOR ... 317 Chap. XXXV. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE WELSH, EISTEDD- VODAU AND MUSIC 321 INDEX INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. Roads — Inns — Means if Conveyance — Guides — Prominent Objects and Scenery— Language.

There is almost as much facility in travelling in Wales as in England, the roads in general being as good, the inns as commodious and comfortable, and the means of conveyance as easily to be met with. THE ROADS. The Great Holyhead Road, passing as it does through tracts of country wild in the extreme, overcoming all impe diments, and never rising to an elevation sufficient to render any part of the journey tedious, must appear to all strangers to be a magnificent work. Next to this, and scarcely inferior in point of excellence, is the road leading from Chester to Caernarvon ; whilst the roads from Caernarvon to Capel Curig, from Caernarvon to Barmouth, from Barmouth to Aberystwith, from Aberystwith to Shrewsbury, and from Shrewsbury to Bala, though in some parts hilly, are ex tremely good ; indeed, in passing from place to place, the traveller will seldom have to regret the want of good roads.

It is true that the carts carrying slates, &c from the quarries injure them in some parts, but never to any great extent. INNS. The accommodation for travellers in Wales is excellent. Several of the inns are on the most extensive scale, and few MEANS OF CONVEYANCE. XXIV even in England will surpass in comfort, cleanliness and the civility of the landlords, the inn at Cernioge, the Goat at Beddgelert, the inns at Tany Bwlch and Capel Curig, the Penrhyn Arms Hotel near Bangor, the Victoria Hotel at Dolbadarn, and the Belle Vue at Aberystwith. The charges are never exorbitant ; being, at the first-rate inns about the same, or perhaps rather less, than they would be at moderate inns in England. MEANS OF CONVEYANCE. During half the year, that is, from May to October, both inclusive, conveyances are easily to be met with.

Between Shrewsbury and Holyhead, the Mail and Wonder coaches pass daily ; the latter is frequently accommodating enough to stop at one or two objects of curiosity on the road, such as Rhaiadr Wennol, and for this reason perhaps the tourist would do well to select this conveyance. From Chester to Caernarvon there are two daily coaches, which, if the tourist is urgent, may be induced to stop at Holywell a sufficient length of time to enable him to visit St. Wenefred's Well. From Caernarvon to Barmouth there is a mail, and from Barmouth a coach three times a week to Chester, passing through Dolgelley, Bala, Druid, Delwer, Ruthin and Mold. A coach runs from Barmouth to Aberystwith, and from Aberystwith to Shrewsbury there are coaches daily through Welsh Pool, Newtown and Llanidloes. Post-horses and cars are to be met with in abundance on all the principal roads, with the exception of that from Oswestry to Bala, a distance of 30 miles, throughout which there are none to be had.

At the principal inns from six to twelve pair of horses are kept; but although the number is so extensive, yet during the height of the season, they are in so great demand, that the traveller would do well to be speak them immediately upon his arrival at the inn, if he GUIDES PROMINENT OBJECTS AND SCENERY. XXV should be particularly anxious to proceed on his journey at any given time. A steam-packet plies daily between Liverpool and Ban gor, making the voyage in about six hours ; and there are likewise steam-boats daily from Liverpool to Rhyl. Besides these several modes of conveyance, horses may be hired or ponies purchased at the option of the tourist. GUIDES. There will be no difficulty in finding guides, and they are in general contented with a slight remuneration ; the guides to Snowdon and Cader Idris, however, make regular charges for their personal services, and 5s. for every pony furnished by them.

The father of the Snowdon Guides, Richard Edwards by name, lives at Beddgelert, and may be met with at the Goat Inn ; and those persons who wish to ascend Cader Idris from Dolgelley will do well to select Richard Pugh, junior, to accompany them ; he may be heard of at the Golden Lion. PROMINENT OBJECTS AND SCENERY. For the information of those persons who are unacquainted with the principal beauties of North Wales, a list is here given of the objects and scenery which will, in all probabi lity, afford the highest gratification to the tourist, they are as follow : — Pont Cysylity Aqueduct — the vale of Llangollen — the road from Cernioge to Bangor, through Nant Frangon, in which are situated Mr. Pennant's slate quarries — the Menai Bridge — the road from the Menai Bridge to Beaumaris — Beaumaris Castle — the voyage from Bangor to Liverpool — the road from Bangor to Conway — Conway Castle and Bridge — the vale of Conway — the vale of Clywd — St. Wene fred's Well at Holywell — Caernarvon and Castle — the LANGUAGE.

XXVI Nantlle pools — the road from Caernarvon to Llanberis — the scenery around Llanberis — the road from Llanberis to Beddgelert — the scenery around Beddgelert — Snowdon — the road from Beddgelert to Tremadoc, passing by Pont Aberglasslyn — the embankment at Tremadoc, and view of Snowdon therefrom — the vale of Ffestiniog — Harlech Castle — the road from Barmouth to Dolgelley — Cader Idris — the vale of Rheidol and the Devil's Bridge. The chief waterfalls are — Pistyll Rhaiadr — the falls of the Mynach at the Devil's Bridge — the falls in the neighbourhood of Dolgelley — the falls near Maentwrog — the falls of the Cynfael near Ffestiniog — the falls at Pont y Pair, close to the Holyhead and London road — Rhaiadr Wennol, close to the same road — and Rhaiadr Benglog, close to the same road — Rhaiadr Mawr, near Aber, on the Chester and Holyhead road — and Caunar.t Mawr, at Dol badarn.

LANGUAGE. The Welsh language has much intrinsic merit; in the strength of its expressions it is inferior to none: in har mony it is superior to most; nor is it an inconsiderable proof of its copiousness and independency, that without the assistance of any foreign words it fully expresses all the conceptions of the mind. The Welsh, Cornish and Breton or Armoric languages, have an uniform agreement with each other, in grammar, structure and nomenclature; and the Irish and Erse or Gaelic are fundamentally the same with the Welsh, though differing much in the dialect and pronunciation. They all proceeded from one common head or fountain, the ancient Celtic or British tongue. It is supposed that there were anciently in the Welsh language no less than 43 letters; 16 of which were radicals, LANGUAGE.

XXVII that expressed the primary sounds, and the rest modulations or dependents on them. For each of these it is probable that there was formerly a simple appropriate character; but, since the invention of printing, and the introduction of Ro man letters, it has been necessary, for want of a sufficient variety of cast for the purpose, to adopt two, and in one in stance even three, of those letters, to express one sound or character, by which much of the simplicity and beauty of the proper alphabet has been lost. No letter has any variation of sound except the accented vowels a, e, 6, v, w, which are lengthened or otherwise ac cording to the power ofthe accent; and all are pronounced, as there are no mutes. The tourist, though he will occasionally be perplexed with the reply of Dim Saesnag, no Saxon or English, to a question asked, may proceed through a great part of Wales without being inconvenienced by a want of knowledge of the native language.

He may however be frequently at a loss to discover the correct pronunciation of the names of different places. To assist him in this respect the following pronunciation is given of the letters in the Welsh alphabet. A, has the same sound as the English open a in the word bard. B, eb, as in English. C, is always hard, as k, or as c in can. Ch, which is accounted but one consonant, is a gutteral, as j£ in Greek, or H, Cheth, in Hebrew. D, ed, as in English. Dd, whether at the beginning, middle, or end of a word, is an aspirated d, and has the sound of th in the words this, that. Dda, good, is pronounced Tha. LANGUAGE, XXVIII E, as e English in the word bed; or if circumflexed, as a English in the word same. F, has the sound of the English v . Ff, as f English. G, eg as in go. Ng, eng, as in the English word long.

H, aitch, as in English. I, ee, as in hid ; or if circumflexed, like our ee in been: thus cil is pronounced keel. L, el, as in English. Ll, is an aspirated 1, and has much the sound of thl. M, em, as in English. N, en, as in English. O, as o in the English word don, or if circumflexed, as o in the English word tone. P, ep, as in English. Ph, eph, an aspirated P. R, ar, as in English; at the beginning of a word it is always aspirated. Rh, arh, an aspirated R. S, ess. as in English. T, et, as in English. Th, eth, an aspirated T. V, sounds like i in limb, lime, &c. ; when circumflexed, as ee in been. W, is a vowel, and has the power, when circumflexed, of oo in soon. Y, is in some words pronounced like i in third ; in others like o in honey ; and again, in others as the u in mud, dust, &c. V is sometimes used instead of f. B and P, C and G, and V and Y, are used promiscuously, as were formerly V and M. LANGUAGE.

XXIX The following translation of a few words of frequent oc currence will be a key to the meaning ofthe names of many of the places : Aber, a confluence; the fall of one river into another, or into the sea, as Aberdovey, the conflux ofthe Dovey. As on, or Avon, what flows; and thence a stream or river. Am, about, around. Allt, a cliff; the steep of a hill. Ar, upon ; bordering or abutting upon. Ban, high, lofty, tall. Bach, and Bychan, little : feminine Vychan and Vechan. Bedd, a grave or sepulchre. Bettws, a station between hill and dale Blaen, a point, top, or end. Bod, a dwelling, residence, or station. Braich, a branch, an arm. Bryn, a hill. Bychan, little, small. Bwlch, a gap or pass between rocks. Cader, a keep, fortress, or stronghold ; a chair. Cae, an inclosure, a hedge. Caer, a fort, or fortified place, generally constructed with stones and mortar.

Capel, a chapel. Coed, a wood. Cam, a heap. Carnedd, a heap of stones. Castell, a castle. Cefen, a ridge ; a high ground. Clawdd, a dike, ditch, or trench ; and sometimes a wall or fence. Clogwyn, a precipice. LANGUAGE. Craig, a rock : — from this the English word crag is derived. Cel, a retreat, a recess Cwm, a great hollow or glen. Dinas, a fort, or fortified place, constructed in general with a rampart of loose stones and earth without any cement. Dol, a meadow or dale in the bend of a river. Drws, a door, pass, or opening. Du, black. Dwfr, or Dwr, water. Dyffryn, a wide cultivated valley. AEglwys, a church. Ffordd, a way, a road, a passage. Fynnon, a spring, well, or source. Gallt, a cliff, an ascent, the side of a hill. Garth, a mountain that bends round, or that incloses. Glan, a bank or shore.

Glas, bluish, or greyish green. Glyn, a deep vale, through which a river runs : — from hence was derived our word glen. Gwern, a watery meadow. Gwydd, a wood; woody or wild. Gwyn, white. Gwys, a summons. Havod, a summer residence. Ls, lower, inferior. Llan, a smooth plot ; a place of meeting ; the church place, or village; and, figuratively, the church. Llech, a flat stone or crag ; a smooth clifF. Llwyn, a grove, or copse. Llyn, a pool, or pond. Maen, a stone. LANGUAGE. XXXI Maes, an open field. Mawr, great ; feminine, Vawr. Melin, a mill. Moel, fair ; bald ; a smooth mountain. Morfa, a marsh. Mynydd, a mountain. Nant, a ravine ; a brook. Newydd, new ; fresh. Pant, a narrow hollow or ravine. Pen, a head, top, or end. Pentref, a village or hamlet. Pistyll, a spout ; a cataract. Plas, a hall or mansion.

Plwyf, a parish. Pont, a bridge. Porth, a port ; a ferry. Pwll, a pit ; a pool. Rhaiadr, a cataract. Rhiw, an ascent. _RA6s, a moist plain or meadow. Rhyd, a ford. Sarn, a causeway. Tal, the front, head, or end. Tan, under. Traeth, a sand on the sea-shore. Tre, or Tres, a township. 7W, three. Troed, a foot, or skirt of a hill. 7W, a tower. Ty, a house. Yn, in, at, into. Ystrad, a vale. Yspytty, a hospital ; an almshouse. NORTH WALES

Chapter I. Shrewsbury

— OSWESTRY— WATT'S DYKE — OFFa's DYKE — BRYNKINNALT. Entering Wales by the Great Holyhead road, Chirk is the first place which the traveller reaches. This village is situated on the northern bank of the river Ceiriog, which separates the counties of Denbigh and Salop, and conse quently England and Wales. Strictly speaking, therefore, a tour through North Wales (if the route laid down in the following pages be adopted) commences with Chirk ; but as Shrewsbury, Oswestry* and Brynkinnaltf are so im- * Oswestry and its hundred, at the making of Domesday, formed a part of Wales. They were annexed to England in the eighth year of the reign of Edward I. f Brynkinnalt is partly in England and partly in Wales, a portion of the grounds being in Shropshire, and the remainder, together with the house, in Denbighshire.