Thirty Years in India: or, a Soldier's reminiscences of Native and European life in the Presidencies, from 1808 to 1838

Front matter

_- THIRTY YEARS IN INDIA: OB, A SOLDIER'S REMINISCENCES OF NATIVE AND EUROPEAN LIFE IN THE PRESIDENCIES, From 1808 to 1838. BY MAJOR H. BEVAN, late '27th REGIMENT e. I. c. madras native infantry IN TWO VOLUMES, VOL. I. WITH MAP, AND PLATES. LONDON: PELHAM RICHARDSON, COKNHILL. 1839. LONDON : PRINTED BY MANNING AND MASON, IVY LANE, PATERNOSTER-ROW. i" MAJOR-GENERAL SIR JAMES LUSHINGTON, G.C.B. AND SIR RICHARD JENKINS, G.C.B. , M.P. THE CHAIRMAN AND VICE-CHAIRMAN or THE HONORABLE COURT OF DIRECTORS OF THE EAST INDIA COMPANY, Œfjese Volumes ARE RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, EY THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. When Philip of Macedon was preparing to invade Greece, the citizens of Corinth with one accord began to make vigorous preparations for resistance ; — every street resounded with the clang of arms, the bustle of furbishing weapons, and the tumult of persons urging forward whatever measures of defence wisdom or caprice dictated. Diogenes, the cynic, who was then in the city, -seeing that he was the only person unemployed, took his tub into the market place and began to roll it backwards and forwards with the utmost diligence. When asked the cause of so strange a proceeding, he replied that he could not endure to be idle when everybody else was hard at work. At a time when so large a share of public attention is directed to our Eastern empire, and when so many interested in its welfare are submitting plans for its protection and improvement, I trust that I shall be excused if, like the philosopher of old, " I roll my tub," — the labour may be unprofitable, but it certainly cannot be injurious.

After having spent a period of time nearly equal to the average duration of human life in India, I cannot avoid imparting to its soil and its inhabitants some b VI

PREFACE.

. share of those feelings which, under other circumstances, would have been exclusively devoted to my native land. I have felt it impossible to reside so long in India without becoming the friend of India ; but I feel convinced that an attachment to Hindustan is not incompatible with the strongest anxiety for the interests of Great Britain. I am persuaded that the more minutely the social and commercial relations between the two countries are examined, the more evident it will be that their interests are identical ; that the prosperity of Great Britain will be promoted by developing the resources, encouraging the industry, and directing the energies of Hindustan ; and on the other hand, that the permanence and security of British supremacy are absolutely essential to the welfare of India. Under these circumstances I deem it almost an act of duty to both countries, to give to the public " the round unvarnished tale " of my experience, with a soldier's frankness, and perhaps with a soldier's bluntness.

I am well aware that many valuable works on India have recently appeared; but in a field so extensive, much must remain to be collected, even after the labours of the most diligent and intelligent. I have " gathered after the reapers," and if success attend my labours, the value of my gleanino-g must be attributed to my having enjoyed peculiarly favourable opportunities, and remained so much lono-er in the field as to gather from several successive harvests.

PREFACE.

. VII Having entered the Madras service in 1809, I was early engaged in the Military Surveys, so honourably encouraged and supported by the government of Fort St. George, under the superintendence of the Quarter- Master-General's department. I was subsequently employed in some of the most interesting and ex citing of the varied operations undertaken for the suppression of the predatory hordes that devastated Central India, and menaced the Three Presidencies. The course of my military services, from that period to the close of my career, led me through districts never before traversed by Europeans, and brought before me the varied population of Hindustan under great diversity of circumstances, and on occasions which furnished the surest tests of character. Too many Europeans, in their accounts of India, have become what Professor Schlegel justly calls " painters in black : " they describe a nation contain ing one hundred millions of souls, the descendants of those very Indians whom the Greeks declared to be the justest of mankind, — as wretches destitute of honour, courage, and integrity.

Although eight centuries of repeated and sanguinary invasions, the cruelties of conquerors and the injustice of tyrants, have deteriorated the social condition of India, long experience induces me to add my testimony to the many honourable tributes paid to the character of the existing generation of Hindoos before both Houses of Parliament. I have found that their faults are promi-

PREFACE.

. VIII nent on the surface, but that by time and patience a fund of good qualities will be found within, which only await favourable opportunities for their development. It may be necessary to make some apology for the many anecdotes of field-sports introduced in these volumes ; but every old Indian will feel with me, that these are amongst the most treasured of a veteran's reminiscences. The young cadet will be eager to learn the nature of the amusements in a land where the prime, at least, of his life must be spent ; and Englishmen will be naturally curious to learn some thing of the nature of Oriental sporting, — so like* and yet so unlike, their own enjoyments in the field. Recent circumstances have greatly increased, if not the political importance of India, at least the attention paid to it in this country.

Without under valuing the labours of the many eminent men who have undertaken to answer the inquiries which are every where made respecting our mighty empire in the East, I trust that a soldier's simple narrative of what he actually witnessed during a service of thirty years, will throw some additional light on the resources of the country, and the character of its inhabitants. In conclusion, I may say with the author of the Book of Maccabees, "if I have done well and wor thily of the subject, it is that which I desired ; but if

PREFACE.

. IX inferior, it is that which I could attain unto." The habits of military life are not favourable to the culti vation of the art of literary composition, I have there fore confined myself chiefly to a simple narration of the facts which came within the sphere of my per sonal experience. I have, however, inserted some native Hindoo legends, because the popular and traditional stories of a country have been justly deemed a guide to the intellectual character of the people. I now commit my volumes to the mercy of the reader, in the hope that if he finds nothing that will add to the defence of Corinth or India, he will at all events believe that I was harmlessly employed in " rolling my tub." H. B. London, April 15th, 1839. P. S. — In consequence of my absence from London, a few trifling enors crept into the first volume, and I have to request the indulgence of my readers for the following ERRATA.

Page 39, for "Captain S.," read " Captain T," „ 133, for '* Kalmiga," read " Kalunga." ,, 135, for "Monsera," read " Nousera.*' „ 151, for " Goremuddee," read "Gorenuddee. „ 163, for "SirS. H.," read "SirT. H." „ 214, for "Mr. A.," read " Mr, G." „ 239, for "Mr. J.," read Mr. S." 276, for " Sir J. M.," read " Sir T. M." „ 277, for " Bengal soldiers," read " by our troops. ,, 285, for "balls," read "shells." „ 286, for "Sir J. M.," read " SirT. M." ,, 288, for " Bind," read " Hindia." „ 309, for " Major G.," read " Col. M'D." PAGE 1 13 2b CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Departure From England Delay In The Brazils Arrival In India

SINGULAR ASPECT OF THE GANGES CALCUTTA MADRAS ...... II. SUPERIOR ADVANTAGES OF CALCUTTA THE ROADSTEAD OF MADRAS MODE OF COMMUNICATION WITH THE SHORE SURF, CATAMARANS AND MASULA BOATS DESCRIPTION OF MADRAS AND ITS ENVIRONS STATE OF SOCIETY INTERCOURSE BETWEEN NATIVES AND EURO- PEANS CONDITION OF FEMALES IN INDIA SINGULAR NARRATIVE OF A BRAHMIN GIRL HINTS TO WRITERS, CADETS, ETC. ...... III. CUDDALORE TRICKS OF THE CADETS NATIVE AND TRAINED SNAKE SUSPENSION OF THE MILITARY INSTI- TUTION AMNESTY TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY HUNTING THE ELK, PORCUPINE, AND WILD HOG INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES PAGODAS OF CONGURRUM CHASE OF THE ELK BY WILD DOGS ABOLITION OF THE INSTI- TUTION FOR CADETS . . . . . CONTENTS. XII PAGE 44 53 63 84

CHAPTER IV. REMOVAL FROM SURVEY DUTY REGIMENTAL

SrORTING TANJORE — ESCORT OF TREASURE BITE OF THE COBRA- CAPELLA SERIOUS ACCIDENT KINDNESS OF THE NATIVES LUCKY ESCAPE THE DOCTOR IN THE HEN- COOP .....•• V. ROUTE FROM BANGALORE SUDDEN DEATH WOLVES ANTELOPE -SHOOTING TAKING YOUNG ELEPHANTS IN PIT-FALLS FATAL FIGHT WITH A BEAR SHOOTING A BOA-CONSTRICTOR VISIT TO THE RAJAH OF MYSORE . VI. DUCK-SHOOTING USE OF THE FIRE-FLY ELEPHANT- HUNTING EXTRAORDINARY LEAP OF AN ELK FOX- HUNTING SPORTING IN THE TANKS OF MYSORE MANUFACTURE OF SHOT . . . . VII. EXAMINATION OF SOME PHASINGARS NATURE OF THUGGEE THE PINDARRIES MEETING A ROYAL TIGER THE MIRAGE A JESUIT MISSIONARY AT RYACOTTAH HAWKING NUNDIDROOG — SHOOTING AN ENORMOUS TIGER VALUE OF THE SCOTCH TERRIER . . .72 VIII. NATIVE CHARACTER IN A MOFUS3IL STATION GREAT RE- SPECT FOR MILITARY RANK CONDITION OF A SUBALTERN — MARTINETS — CAPTAIN ANGULARITY THE PRIDE OF BRIEF AUTHORITY GOOD FEELING BETWEEN OFFICERS — NECESSITY OF A CONCILIATING SPIRIT RANK OF NATIVE OFFICERS POLICY OF SUBSCRIBING TO NATIVE SHOWS THE MOHURRUM DUSSERAH MINOR FEASTS IX.

MARCH TO BANGALORE MUTINY — EXECUTION AND RE- PRIEVE CONSPIRACY AT QUII.ON CHEETAH-HUNTING SPORT ON THE KISTNAH RIVER INDIAN PARTRIDGE — HERDS OF ANTELOPES — CHASE OF THE ANTELOPE DISAPPEARANCE OF POPULATION .... CONTENTS. XIII PAGE 109 117 130 143 155

CHAPTER X. FLY-FISHING SHOOLAPORE HOSTILE DISPOSITION OF THE MAHRATTAHS JAULNAH ESCAPE OF

TRIMBUCKJEE DANGLIA MOHAMMEDAN PREJUDICES SAGACITY OF ELEPHANTS ...... XI. COURSING DREADFUL THUNDER-STORM — -PROMOTED TO THE RANK OF LIEUTENANT SUICIDE OF A DOCTOR MARCH AGAINST THE PINDARRIES ACTIVE PURSUIT OF MARAUDERS BY LIEUT. P. MARCH THROUGH THE DECCAN EXTRAORDINARY EXERTIONS OF THE PINDAR- RIES USE OF OPIUM AS A STIMULUS THE BHEELS CHASE OF THE MOOSE-DEER — SHOOTING A TIGER AND TWO CHEETAHS FEAR OF AN AMBUSCADE PARSEE DISTILLERIES ...... XII. INTERVIEW WITH A BHEEL CHIEF DHURAMPORE ATTACK ON THE PINDARRIES CONCLUSION OF THE WAR IN NEPAUL ACCOUNT OF GUZZERAT RETURN OVER THE GHAUTS SICKNESS OF THE SOLDIERS — A ROWLAND FOR AN OLIVER PRACTICAL JOKES THE BITER BIT XIII. FEUDAL SOLDIERS IN INDIA SICKNESS OF THE TROOPS DIFFICULTY OF PROCURING MEANS OF TRANSPORT DEFEAT OF THE PINDARRIES MURDER OF AN OFFICER REVENGEFUL SPIRIT OF THE HINDOOS CUNNING OF THE PEISHWA ATTACHMENT OF THE SEPOYS TO A DESERVING OFFICER REMOVAL TO THE PIONEERS CHANGE IN THE MUTUAL GOOD-FEELINGS OF OFFICERS XIV.

DEPARTURE FOR JAULNAH TENACITY OF LIFE IN A WILD HOG — HUNTING A PORCUPINE INDIAN SEASONS FOR GAME ATTACK OF A PANTHER — VALUE OF A POLYGAR DOG A HARE CAUGHT BY A SNAKE -CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY AND PEOPLE ROUND JAFFERABAD THE ARMY OF THE DECCAN ■ FIELD OP BATTLE AT ASSAYE PRAYERS FOR THE DEAD THE ADJUNTAH GHAUT CONTENTS. PAGE 167 182 205

CHAPTER XV. CAVES OF AJUNTAH

— DISTURBING A NEST OF HORNETS PASSAGE OF THE KIERHY RIVER DIFFICULTIES OF THE COUNTRY NOVEL RAFT OVER THE TAPTI RIVER DE- SCRIPTION OF BURRANAPORE STRANGE APPEARANCE OF THE CENTRAL MARKET WRETCHED CONDITION OF CAN- DEISH ENORMOUS EXTENT OF JUNGLE THE VILLAGE OF CHARWAH— DANGER OF SPORTING IN THE CHARWAH JUNGLE ARRIVAL AT HURDAH PROHIBITION OF VEAL XVI. CONDITION OF THE MAHRATTAH POWERS CONSPIRACY AGAINST BRITISH SUPREMACY DOUBTFUL FIDELITY OF THE PEISHWA SUPPRESSION OF PIRACY CHARACTER OF BAJEE-ROW STATE OF NAGPORE VINDICATION OF THE MARQUIS OF HASTINGS SCINDIa's ATTEMPT ON BHORPAUL CONDITION OF OUR RELATIONS WITH THE NIZAM CHAND-U-LAL APPOINTED DEWAN THE NIZAMS AUXILIARY FORCE MAL-ADMINISTRATION OF THE NIZAM'S TERRITORIES REFORMED BY SIR C. METCALFE CONDUCT OF THE NIZAM's SONS CHARACTER OF THE BRAHMINS OF THE CARNATIC OBSERVATIONS ON THE PRESENT EXPEDITION AGAINST CABUL XVII.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES AT MADRAS AND IN THE INTERIOR ASSAULT OF A CHURLISH LANDHOLDER EXCURSION TO RYACOTTAH DESPERATE FOX-HUNTING NOVEL MODE OF BEATING FOR GAME IMMENSE FLOCKS OF WATER-FOWL EX- CITING CHASE WANT OF PASSPORTS AN ECCENTRIC CHARACTER THE TROUBLESOME SURGEON WALKS IN THE FOREST AN INDIAN THUNDER-STORM THE DOCTOR IN A FRIGHT DANGER FROM A CHEETAH THE RED ANTS PURDY'S GUNS THE REQUISITES FOR AN INDIAN SPORTSMAN xvni. RISE OF TRIMBUCKJEE DANGLIA NEGOTIATIONS WITH THE GUICHWAR SUPERSTITION OF THE PEISHWA EMBASSY OF THE SHASTREE— HIS VANITY DEBAUCHERY CONTENTS. XV PAGE 224 242 273 289 OF THE PEISHWA MURDER OF THE GUICHWAr's AMBAS SADOR ARREST OF THE PEISHWa's MINISTER ESCAPE OF TRIMBUCKJEE TREACHERY OF THE MAHRATTAHS COURAGE OF GOKLAR BATTLE OF KHIRKEE PROMPTI TUDE OF MR. E. BATTLE OF KORIGAUM THE RAJAH OF SATTARA DEATH OF GOKLAR PERFIDY OF APPA SAIB BATTLE OF LECTABULDEE PRESENT POLITICAL STATE OF THE MAHRATTAHS . . . .

CHAPTER XIX. FORMATION OF THE ARMY OF THE DECCAN ABUNDANCE OF GAME

AT HURDAH THE CYRUS NARROW ESCAPE FROM A TIGER FIDELITY OF MY DOGS RECENT ADVEN- TURES OF INDIAN SPORTSMEN MURDER OF MAJOR O. D. SINGULAR HABITS OF THE BUNJARRAHS LEGEND OF THE BUNJARRAH AND HIS DOG DESERTER FROM THE PHASINGARS MURDER OF TWO RAJPOOTS TREACHERY OF A SEPOY EXTENSIVE CONFEDERACY OF ASSASSINS CHARACTER OF THE GOSSEINS ATTACHMENT OF A DOG TO THE BODY OF HIS MASTER SEPOY STORY-TELLERS THE FEMALE PHYSICIAN, A HINDOO LEGEND XX. JUNCTION OF THE BRITISH ARMIES AT OGEIN INDORE DANGER OF AN OFFICER WATER-PALACE OF AURUNG- ZEBE BATTLE OF MAHEDPOORE VALOUR OF THE PATANS COMPLETE VICTORY MURDER OF BHYE HOLKAR A FIELD OF BATTLE BY NIGHT SUFFERINGS OF THE WOUNDED PEACE WITH HOLKAR AND SCINDIA TURTLE OF THE NERBUDDAH EXPOSURE OF THE DEAD . XXI. CROSSING THE TAPTI RIVER UNEXPECTED RESISTANCE OF TALNIER STORM OF THE FORT TREACHEROUS MURDER OF MAJOR M'G. DESTRUCTION OF THE GAR- RISON SURRENDER OF SEVEIiAL FORTS ESCAPE OF THE RAJAH OF NAGPORE PURSUIT OF BAJEE-ROW BREAKING UP OF THE ARMY OF THE DECCAN GLO- RIOUS RESULTS OF THE CAMPAIGN CONTENTS. PAGE 304 333

CHAPTER XXII

, SURRENDER OF BAJEE-ROW IMPOLITIC CONCESSIONS AURUNGABAD DIFFICULTY OF PROCURING INFORMATION JAULNAH PROPITIATORY SACRIFICES TO DEITIES SUPPOSED TO PRESIDE OVER DISEASES DEMONIACAL POSSESSION EXORCISM STATE OF ARTS AND MANU- FACTURES IN CENTRAL INDIA STEREOTYPE CHARACTER OF ASIATIC CIVILIZATION NECESSITY OF PRACTICAL EDUCATION HINDOO FEMALES IN CENTRAL INDIA WISE POLICY ADOPTED IN THE SETTLEMENT OF THE COUNTRY THE COURSE PURSUED BY THE MARQUIS OF H. VINDICATED . . . . .

Appendix

. LETTER OF THE ABBE DUBOIS ON THE CHARACTER OF THE HINDOOS . . . . . . . •rs* A.V . -, „ J \ ■ StaMn )Bm IN INDIA.

CHAPTER I. DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND DELAY IN THE BRAZILS ARRIVAL IN INDIA

SINGULAR ASPECT OF THE GANGES CALCUTTA MADRAS. Having been appointed a cadet of infantry in the Madras establishment in 1807, I sailed from Ports mouth in the early part of 1808, in the Honorable East India Company's ship " Streatham," Captain Dale, under convoy of the Leopard, fifty-gun ship, and the " Sylvia" cutter. We lost sight of the convoy and other ships during the night subsequent to our sailing from Madeira, where we anchored for three days, taking in wine, fruit, water, etc. This island is hilly and romantic, nearly covered with vineyards; the climate moderately warm : it is too well known to need description. I got some little trifles from the nuns at the convents which I visited: the inmates, I thought, old and ugly, rather dark complexioned, and of a very un interesting appearance.

Their mode of living is not much adapted to the English taste, as their food B contains great quantities of grease and garlic. On the 20th of May we sprung our foremast in a stiff gale off St. Trinidad, which obliged us to steer for Rio de Janeiro, the nearest port, to refit ; there we found Sir Sidney Smith, admiral of the fleet, an chored, with part of his squadron, namely, the " London," " Foudroyant," etc., the remainder of the ships being on a cruise off the coast, having lately conveyed the Portuguese Royal Family, with most of their suite and attendants, from Lisbon, prior to its invasion by the French. The harbour and splendid river of Rio, with the lofty and majestic mountains on each side, that bound it, clothed to their summits with verdure, render the scenery bold and as fine as any in the world.

Oc casional glimpses of the Portuguese white-washed houses are to be seen through the foliage of the trees, scattered along the banks of the river, amid a rich variety of shrubs, evergreens, orange trees, etc., forming a delightful, cool, and shady retreat from the scorching rays of the mid-day sun, which are overpowering here during the summer season. This delightful shade is formed not merely by trees and shrubs, but also by a vast variety of parasitical plants, whose classification would give employment to a botanist for a twelvemonth. They grow to an enormous size, exhibiting the greatest diversities of flower and foliage ; and being interlaced and inter twined with each other, they form a canopy which no art could imitate. Lizards, of countless species, sport over these masses of flower and leaf, seeming as if they were playing upon a carpet of rainbows.

It is not easy to force a passage through these thickets of a thousand colours : if a person goes to pull away a single plant, he runs the risk of bring ing a whole forest about his ears, together with innumerable hordes of its tenants, whose company would be anything but agreeable. The Portuguese appear partial to music : the sound of the guitar and other instruments, with vocal and plaintive airs, breathe forth their softened tones, which wafted along the glassy and placid surface of the water (seldom ruffled) are in unison with that still hour and time of repose — " the Siesta." Seve ral of the cadets, and myself among the number, had various pleasant excursions on the banks of the river, and found the Portuguese, at least the female part, friendly, hospitable, and obliging, though our want of a knowledge of the language prevented a full enjoyment of the intercourse.

The plumage of the birds is brilliant, but their notes are not so pleasing. Some of our sailors got on shore, con cealed in the native boats that came daily with pro visions, fruits, and other supplies for the ship, and escaped for a short time, but were overtaken about six miles in the interior by a party sent after them. I landed with the other passengers, and put up at a hotel in Rio, during the three weeks required to refit. All sorts of provisions and fruit appeared cheap, and in abundance. Our ship of 800 tons was laid alongside of the " Foudroyant," a 74-gun ship, by whose colossal sides we appeared quite diminutive. The injured mast was soon taken down, and having been fished to an adjacent island, was put to rights by some workmen kindly lent us for the purpose by Sir Sidney. Several instances of the vindictive character of the Portuguese occurred during our stay at Rio, by their stabbing some men of the squadron out of mere wantonness and jealousy.

Sir Sidney put a stop to this treachery by threatening to hang the first offender. The king and his council appeared to possess less power than the priests. Notwithstanding my anxiety to reach India, I was not sorry for being compelled to remain a short time at Rio ; Brazil was a country which I had little chance of seeing again, and it presented a state of society which I was not likely to meet any where else. Nature appears to have done every thing for the country ; man seems perversely to have acted as if bound to oppose nature, and has ruined it irretrievably. For the first time I beheld a land without anyindustrial middle classes. All manual labour is performed by the negroes : were the slave-trade abolished, the entire industry of the country would be at an end. Even in the first fervour of loyalty on the king's arrival, the jealousy between the Brazilians and the Portuguese who accompanied the royal family became manifest, and there were many who already speculated on the revolution which severed Brazil from Portugal.

The separation has since been effected, and Brazil is termed a land of liberty ! Liberty is truly useful as a protection to industry and economy, but I have yet to learn its value in a country possessing neither the one nor the other. On tlie 28th of July 1808, we sailed for Cal cutta ; our voyage was like every other voyage in a crowded ship, that is to say, a repetition of necessary annoyances every day, without a substantial grievance to give an excuse for grumbling. Some old king offered a reward for the invention of a new pleasure ; were he on a long voyage he might be tempted to offer a premium for the invention of a new pain. Soon after we had entered the Bay of Bengal, a little before sunset, a strange and rather suspicious looking sail hove in sight. Though the Company's ships were built expressly for trade, they were never backward in encountering an enemy whenever it was necessary, as the French admiral Linois found to his cost, when he met the gallant Captain Dance.

There was nothing like fear or confusion on board our ship, but the necessary preparations for action were made in a very soldier like or sailor-like way, ours being a very happy mixture of both services. A detachment of His Majesty's 59th regiment, which we had on board, was told off in three divisions of fifty men each, on the forecastle, quarter-deck, and poop ; and a party of the cadets undertook to act as sharp-shooters in the tops. I do not know whether all our shooting would have been sharp, for some of us having never handled fire-arms before, handled them very awk wardly, and were not over anxious to commence drill on such a ticklish parade as a ship's tops. A wag of our party undertook the instruction of the unitiated, and seriously advised them to hold on by the netting whilst firing, lest the recoil of the muskets should send them sprawling on the quarter deck.

Our military ardour was a little cooled by a confinement of fifteen hours in the tops ; — as the day dawned, we saw the stranger about five miles to windward bearing down towards us under easy sail. Hitherto we had kept on our course without any deviation, but when she neared us, we hauled up our courses with something like an air. From this manœuvre and the formidable display of rank and file on our quarter-deck, whose red coats and glittering muskets were shewn off to the best advantage by the rising sun, the stranger seemed to think that our vessel might prove " an uo-ly customer," and though a large French frigate, quietly dropped astern. We afterwards ascertained that she was the " Piedmontese," which had been for some time cruising in these seas on the look out for East India ships, and had made several seizures.

It is very remarkable that our gallant vessel became her prey on the homeward-bound passage, but was re taken by the British frigate " St. Fiorenzo," after a most desperate action, close to the Isle of France, when her condemnation seemed inevitable. We did not reach Calcutta until the month of October, six months after our departure from Eng land ; such was the tedious length of a voyage to India in former days, reduced now to one-half the period by the improvements in navigation, and especially by the greater accuracy of the charts, on whose improvement the Company honourably ex pended vast sums, for which the nation can never be too grateful. While at anchor in Diamond Harbour, the " Earl Spencer,'' one of the May fleet, arrived, having on board part of the passengers of the ship " Traverse," which had sprung a leak and foundered in the Bay of Bengal; but all hands were saved by the other ships in company.

I reached Calcutta the latter end of October in a budjerow,* sent to convey the cadets from the ship up the river. Wishing to see the country, some of us landed while at anchor, waiting for the tide, when we witnessed a most revolting sight — a woman and child left on the slimy banks of the river by * Accommodation boat. their relatives, to be taken down the stream by the receding tide. The child was dead, and partly devoured by the Pariah * dogs, though the woman had used all her remaining strength in vain, to drive them away with a stick she still held in her hand, but she was unable to use it with effect, owing to her excessive weakness. A number of birds called adjutants, vultures, crows, etc. were waiting quietly at a short distance till the dogs had satisfied them selves on the body of the child, which was torn to pieces.

We were anxious to rescue the woman, but the boatmen who accompanied us, told us it could not be allowed, as they were both exposed in consequence of having an incurable disease, in order that the " holy water of the Ganges " might waft their souls to the realms of everlasting happiness, for such is the superstitious idea of all Hindoos. Mr. G., who kept an inn at Fultah, gave us some excellent venison of the spotted deer kind, which abounds here and on the Saugur Islands, though infested with tigers. One tiger indeed was seen from the ship stealing out of the low jungles (which covered these islands) in pursuit of the deer, that towards evening come out of the thickets to feed on the greenswards near the banks. , In our way to Calcutta we passed several Hindoo dead bodies floating down the river, tied on small rafts, on which were often perched various voracious * The native domestic dog. birds, eating leisurely as the stream carried them along : occasionally they were disturbed by an alligator putting in his claim for a share of the spoil, by pulling the raft and what remained of the body suddenly under water, where he tore away his share, and then allowed the carcass again to float for the birds.

A cigar being recommended to the cadets, to correct the noxious vapours and evening damps arising from the river, I tried one, but being my first, it caused such a sensation of sickness as to make me quite giddy, and fall overboard; fortunately the little depth of water prevented any accident, except getting a wet jacket. Calcutta, that city of palaces, and Fort William, are now too well known, and have been too much changed since my visit to need any mention. The government-house is worthy of being the superior seat of the Indian legislature. The num bers of the adjutant* birds, "so stately and grave," that are seen reposing quietly on its flat roof and surrounding balustrades, appear like so many fixed ornamental figures. They are so tame that they allow the persons kept to clean away their ordure to shove them off with their brooms before they will quit.

The European soldiers in Fort William amuse themselves by tying a piece of meat to a long string, which the adjutant readily swallows; * A species of stork. B but on the string being pulled, it is quickly dis gorged with the very worst sort of filthiness and garbage, as they are the scavengers of the whole city and its environs, therefore are found so very useful in clearing away nuisances (which in this hot climate would be insufferable) that they are not allowed to be killed, and a heavy fine is exacted by order of government, from any person who molests them. The cadets used to amuse themselves by shooting the kites on the open esplanade, which lies between Calcutta and the Fort. When one is shot or wounded, others are attracted to the spot in numbers, often to share the fate of their com panion.

I had some snipe shooting near Barasett, a few miles from Calcutta, where meat, poultry, fish, oysters, bread, butter, and vegetables, are good and in abundance, as well as remarkably cheap. All descriptions of European supplies are moderate, and at times may be procured at a lower rate than in the places from whence they are exported. The navigation of the river is rather intricate, from the shifting of the sands, notwithstanding it possesses great commerce with most parts of the world, as denoted by the number of ships anchored close to the city. The sailors are frequently em ployed in their bows clearing away the bodies of the natives which get entangled in the cables and buoys by the current; as nearly all classes of Hindoos, who die within fifty miles of the banks of the Ganges, if able, take their dead to this sacred stream, in pre ference to any other mode of interment, with the exception of the Mussulman, who invariably use sepulture.

Most other sects and Hindoos, at too great a distance from the Ganges, burn their dead. All the cadets were invited to a grand farewell party given by Lord M., governor -general, to Sir E. P., the admiral on the Indian station, previous to his departure for Europe ; I therefore had an opportunity of seeing the interior of that splendid mansion, the government-house, which was bril liantly illuminated and lit up on that occasion for the reception of upwards of 300 persons, mostly of the civil, naval, and military services of His Majesty and the Hon. E. I. Company. The envoys of the numerous native states attended, and by the novelty and variety of their costumes, greatly con tributed to the brilliancy of the scene. The Madras cadets, fourteen in number, sailed in the " Lady Jane Dundas," and " Duchess of Gordon," towards the latter end of December 1808, touching at the following places on the coast, for cloth, cotton, etc. : — Gangam, Masulipatam, Vigagapatam Coringa, Narsapoore, so that we did not arrive at Madras until January 1809.