A Run through Europe

Front matter

A RUN THROUGH EUROPE. A RUN THROUGH EUROPE BT Erastus C. Benedict " Quacumque incedlmos, in aliquam historiam, vestigium pooimoa, "— LwT: New-gork : D. APPLETON & CO., PUBLISHERS, 443 & 445 BROADWAY. LONDON: 16 LITTLE BRITAIN. 1860. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1860, By D. APPLETON & CO., [a the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New-York. TO EDWIN BUEE, Esq. MORE THAN THIRTY YEARS MY PARTNER AND MY FRIEND I DEDICATE WITH HESPEOT AND AFFECTION THESE SKETCHES OF TRAVEL IN PATHS FAMILIAR TO HIS STEPS. • TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE. PAGE.

CHAPTER I. — Prefatory 13

CHAPTER V

Chapter II

— At Sea 18 "Washerwomen 60 Sea Sieknera 20 Nice 60 Icebergs 20 Cornice Road 61 Meeting a Steamer 22 Ligurian Alps 61 Making the Land 23 Monaco 61 Landing 24 Trophæa AuguBti 62 The Voyage and the Ship 24 Ancient Towns 62 Land Birds 26 Painted Houses 63

Chapter III

— England 27 Peasant Girls 63 Liverpool 27 Courier Diligence 64 London 23 Conductor a Postmaster 64 Trafalgar Square 28 Distributing hia Mails 64 Northumberland House 29 Shrines and Images 65 Monuments — Nelson 29 Genoa in the Distance. 65 Charles I George IV 30 Cogoletto. 66 Westminster Hall, 31 Columbus 66 Westminster Abbey 32 Genoa 67 Parliament 34 Local Customs 67 The TunneL 38 Women 67 The Streets— The River 39 Palaces 68 Churches 69

Chapter IV

— France 41 Leghorn 71 Folkestone to Boulogne 41 Pisa 71 Napoleon III 42 Cathedral 71 His Revolution 43 Leaning Tower 72 Paris 43 Baptistery 73 Diligence 46 Campo Santo 73 Face of the Country. 48 Steamer to Civita Vecchia 74 Women at Work in the Fields. . 50 Storm 74 Donkey3 50 Permits to Land 75 Peasant Girls 51 Teams 51

Chapter VI

— States of the Vineyards 52 Church— Rome 76 Railroads . 53 Fear of Brigands 76 Tunnels 53 BeggarB , 76 Marseilles 54 Passport? 77 The People 54 Laborers in the Fields 77 Napoleon Tower. 55 Laborers in the Market-place. ... 78 Cours Bonaparte 55 Roman Oxen 79 Prado 55 Drivers. 79 Country Houses 56 South of France 56 Buffaloes — Goats— Sheep 79 First Sight of St. Peter's. ,Y 80 Drive to Nice 57 Rome SO Cannes 58 French Soldiera 80 Landing of Napoleon from Elba . 58 Temporal Power of the Pope TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE. Virginia 120 Plautian Tomb 1*1 Lake Tartarus 121 So.fatara 122 Adrian's Villa 122 Adrian 123 The Ruins 124 Tivoli 125 Ancient "Villas 125 Temple of the Sybil 126 The Falls 126 Opening of the Artificial Fall... 128 Cascatelles of Tivoli 129

CHAPTER IX.

— Palaces-Museums -Ar. 130 The Vatican 130 Galleries and Collections 131 Library 132 Gardens 133 Sistine Chapel 133 TheQuirinal 134 Election of the Pope 134 Billiard Room 135 Pope's Table 135 His Personal Apartments 136 Gardens 136 Capitoline Hill 136 Statues — Castor and Pollux — Marcus Aurelius 136 The Capitol 137 The Collections of Art 137 The Lateran Palace 137 The Old Masters 138 Villa Borghese. 140 The Bonapartes 141 The Roman Republic, 1848 142 Borghese Family 142 Statue of Pauline 142 Private Palaces 143 Copying Paintings 143

CHAPTER X

The Ruins of Rome. 145 The Seven Hills 145 Christianized Ruins 146 Forums 147 Coliseum 147 Palace of the Cæsars 148 "Wealth of the Ancients 148 Ancient Art 149 Public Roada 149 Aqueducts 150 Sewers 151 Columns 151 Obelisks 152 Arches 153 Mamertine Prison 154 Scalæ Gemoniæ 155

CHAPTER XL

— Roman Religion.. 157 Its Characteristics 158 Ceremonies and Rites 15.) Imitations of Jewish 161 Traditions and Memorials 165 Characteristic Evils 167 The Temporal Power * 168 Unity of Faith 169 PAGE. Priests and Monks 81 Princely Wedding 82 Santa Maria Maggiore 82 Column of the Virgin 82 The Wedding Cortege 82 The New Married Pair at St. Peter's 83 Beggars 84 Newspapers 84 Churches 86 Basilicas 86 Pantheon 86 St. Mary of the Angels 86 St. Bruno 86 The Priorato 87 Capuchin Church 87 Guido's Michael 87 Artistic Libels 87 Sistine Chapel SS High Mass there 88 The Cardinals 88 The Ceremony 86 The Pope 89 St. Peter's ,. 89 Mosaic Paintings 91 ItsCost 92 St. Paul's 93 Benedictine Cloisters 94 Malaria 94 St. John Lateran 94 Corpus Domini 95 Relics 96 Appian Way 96 Monuments 96 Apostle Paul 97 Columbaria 98 St. Sebastian's 98 Footprint of the Savior 99 Catacombs 99 Catacombs of the Capuchins 100

CHAPTER VIL

— Roman Education 103 University of Rome 105 Father Secchi 105 Roman College 106 Course of Studies 108 Library 110 Systems of Instruction 110 Vacations 110 College of the Propaganda 110 Other Seminaries Ill Regionary Schools.. Ill Christian Brothers 112 TheirVows 112 Their Numbers 112 Their Instruction 113 "Emperor of Christian Doctrine.. 114 Night Schools 115 Industrial Schools 115 SanMichelc 115