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Studies in Corsica, sylvan and social

John Warren Barry · 1893 · Scanned text

101,442 words · about 7 h 6 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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About this book

Author
John Warren Barry
Language
English
Published
1893
Length
101,442 words · about 7 h 6 min
Sections
49 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public Domain Mark 1.0

 

Contents (49)
  1. Preface about 2 min
  2. Part I Introductory And Touristical Chapter under 1 min
  3. Chapter II Going South about 1 min
  4. Chapter III Why Corsica about 1 min
  5. Chapter IV Impressions From The Sea under 1 min
  6. Chapter V under 1 min
  7. Part II Social And Historical Chapter VI Ajaccio under 1 min
  8. Chapter VII Ajaccio under 1 min
  9. Chapter VIII Corsican History about 1 min
  10. Chapter IX Corsican about 1 min
  11. Chapter X The Corsican Dialect Page about 1 min
  12. Chapter XI about 1 min
  13. Chapter XII Life At Ajaccio under 1 min
  14. Chapter XIII about 1 min
  15. Chapter XIV Life At Ajaccio under 1 min
  16. Part III The Bush Of Corsica And Of The Mediterranean Region Chapter about 1 min
  17. Chapter XVI The Bush As under 1 min
  18. Chapter XVII The Bush And Its Enemies about 1 min
  19. Chapter XIX Review Of The Bush Page under 1 min
  20. Chapter XX under 1 min
  21. Chapter XXI under 1 min
  22. Chapter XXII Game Page under 1 min
  23. Chapter XXIII under 1 min
  24. Chapter XXIV Bandits under 1 min
  25. Appendix under 1 min
  26. Chapter I Going South about 14 min
  27. Chapter II Going South about 19 min
  28. Chapter III Why about 24 min
  29. Chapter IV Impressions From The Sea about 11 min
  30. Chapter V Impressions Ashore about 18 min
  31. Chapter VI Ajaccio about 17 min
  32. Chapter VII Ajaccio about 19 min
  33. Chapter VIII Corsican History Allusion about 10 min
  34. Chapter IX. Corsican History about 14 min
  35. Chapter X The Corsican Dialect about 16 min
  36. Chapter XI The Corsican Dialect about 19 min
  37. Chapter XII Life At Ajaccio about 15 min
  38. Chapter XIII Life At Ajaccio about 19 min
  39. Chapter XIV Life At Ajaccio about 18 min
  40. Chapter XV The Bush As about 16 min
  41. Chapter XVI The Bush As about 13 min
  42. Chapter XVII The Bush And Its Enemies The about 17 min
  43. Chapter XVIII The Bush As about 3 min
  44. Chapter XIX Review Of The Bush Thus about 12 min
  45. Chapter XX Review Of The Bush about 12 min
  46. Chapter XXI Review Of The Bush about 13 min
  47. Chapter XXII Game about 11 min
  48. Chapter XXIII Game about 27 min
  49. Chapter XXIV Bandits about 55 min

Continue:

Preface

The object of this book is of a mixed nature. The original intention of its writer, or perpetrator, was to convey an idea in regard to ligneous vegetation of the seaboard region of Southern Europe as exemplified in one of its most charac teristic islands. That intention, however, has been so much supplemented by the introduction of other and purely local matter, that the title which had been proposed for it is no longer suitable, and another has been substituted at the last moment, in the shape of that which it now bears. Two visits to Corsica have been made by the author. The first was of less than five months' duration ; but the second extended to nearly two years and a half, namely, from the latter part of September 1882 to the latter part of February 1885. The first was for the greater part spent in travel.

The second was undertaken in a more leisurely manner. Three different villages in the interior mountains were selected for sojourn and as centres of excursion, whilst the capital was preferred as the residence in winter, and was the general head-quarters throughout the whole period. It is mainly with observations at the last-mentioned place that the ensuing pages pretend to be concerned. A

PREFACE.

IV The length of the interval between travel and publica tion is perhaps calculated to provoke a smile. The delay, however, has not been from negligence. For twelve years and eight months the writer has been continuously busy upon his subject ; but he has been engaged in studies upon other branches of it, to the bringing out of which he does not yet see his way ; whilst he has expended an unusual amount of labour in endeavouring to make presentable what he now offers ; for he is singular enough in these days to hold that books like the present, of limited interest, should not be inflicted upon a sated public without attention to form as much as to matter. A few words of acknowledgment by way of conclusion. The author desires to return his thanks to Miss M. Swinny, now of Windsor, for the sketch which was the original of Plate IV., and for some delineations in the original of the present Frontispiece.

He would also beg to express his obligation to Mr. A. R. Waller of York, Mr. A. E. Lomax of Liverpool, and Mr. Hanbury of San Remo, for their aid in identifying botanical specimens. Nor must he forget to acknowledge with gratitude the assistance of Mrs. and the late Mr. Henry Lucas, who revised the chapters on ' Life at Ajaccio,' and during many years of constant friendship gave him the benefit of a share of their mature experience. In regard to the illustrations that have not been accounted for, Plate II. (rather altered in the reproduction) is from a pencil sketch by the author of the book, and the rest are reproductions from his own photographs. CONTENTS

Part I Introductory And Touristical Chapter

I GOING SOUTH PAGE The route to Corsica via Marseilles — Its interest to the observer . . . . . . . -4 North of England to Paris 4 Paris to Lyons ........... 5 Lyons to Marseilles . 5 The novel features of the South — The change in Atmosphere 6 ,, „ Orography 6 A drawback 7 The change in Agriculture ......... 7 The Olive tree 7 The change in Horticulture ......... 8 ,, ,, Architecture 9 Private houses ........ 9 Tiles 10 Public buildings . . . . . . ..11

Chapter II Going South

{continued) Novel features of the South (continued) — The change in Wild Vegetation : reversion to pines . . . .13 Explanation — A region of conifers to the south of our latitudes . . . . 14 A period of conifers anterior to the present . . . . .14 CONTENTS VI The pines of the South — page The Pinaster IS The Aleppo pine . . . . . . . • ' 5 The Stone pine — Its importance . . . . . . . . . . 16 Not a woodland but a garden tree . . . . . .16 Explanation of some ancient allusions . . . . . . 17 ,, ,, botanical terms . . . . .18 Ancient classification of trees . . . . . . . 19 Description of the Stone pine . . . . . . 19 Pine timber in the South, is it of any value ? . . . . . 20 Timber of Southern hardwoods . . . . . .21 Pines and the Southern climate, how do they stand it ? . . . 22 Climate of the Stone pine ...... . . 23 Journey of 1880 — To Marseilles ........... 23 Effects of the frost of 1 879-1 SSo 24 Embarkation for Ajaccio . . . . . . . 24 Reflections and anticipations ....... 25

Chapter III Why Corsica

? General explanation — General object of the tour . . . . . . . . . 27 Particular point of view ......... 27 Why Corsica was selected . . . . . . . . . 28 Detailed explanation — Reasons for travelling — Points on which information was desired . . . . .28 Failure of finding the same in books . . . . . . . 29 Necessity of being one's own traveller ...... 30 Reasons for travelling abroad — Commencement of tours in Great Britain . . . . . . 30 Reasons for their abandonment ....... 30 Character of British woods . . . . . . . . 32 Foreign travel determined on ....... 32 Reason for travelling in Europe . . . . . . • • 33 Reasons for travelling in the south of Europe — The region of Europe originally selected, and why . . . -34 The particular country . . . . . . . • • 35 Commencement of operations in Scandinavia 35 Postponement of Northern for Southern travel . . . . . 36 Reasons for giving the preference to Corsica as the most suitable part of the south of Europe — Spain and Portugal considered 36 Ita'y 37 Greece „ 37 South of France ,, ...... -37 » > CONTENTS VII PAGE Sicily considered ......... 37 Sardinia ,,' .......... 38 Corsica ,, 38 Its ancient reputation in regard to woods 39 Its modern ,, „ ,, . . . . .39 Its other advantages . . . . . . ... 40 Resolution .......... 41 Subsequent deviations in the plan of work . . . . . . 41 Anticipations of Corsica resumed 42

Chapter IV Impressions From The Sea

A reflection -44 Appearance of Corsica from the sea . . . . . . . 44 Appearance of the Bay of Ajaccio from the vessel . . . . .45 Compared with that of Naples . . . . . . . . . 46 ,, ,, the Lake of Geneva ....... 46 Vegetation — Woods 47 Moors ............ 48 Scotch aspect ........... 48 Unlucky auspices .......... 49 The Napoleonic trilogy . . ....... 50 Arrival off the Port of Ajaccio SI

Chapter V

* IMPRESSIONS ASHORE The landing 53 Notes from our quarters • • ■ • 53 Notes in the streets — Street life - 55 The people ........... S° Costumes ............ 5*^ Urban trees ........... 57 Notes on a visit ........... 59 Surroundings of the house . . ' 59 Notes in a walk by the shore— Locality 6° Geological formation 60 Vegetation on waste places 61 Garden hedges — Quick fences .......... 62 Adventitious shrubs 64 Dead fences . --M People 6S CONTENTS PAGE At the hotel— Company at dinner .65 Temperature . . . . . 66

Part II Social And Historical Chapter VI Ajaccio

Its origin — Origin of Ajaccio 69 ,, other Corsican towns . . . . . . . . 70 ,, Ajaccio illustrated by its topography . . . . .72 Its growth — The original town .......... 72 Enlargement in the sixteenth century ...... 72 ,, nineteenth ,, . . . . . ■ • 73 Its position as capital : history of Corsican capitals — Greek and Roman period ........ 73 Mediæval and Italian period . . . . . . . . 74 French period 75 Its topography — The City 76 The Borgo ........... 77 Its inhabitants 78 Street nomenclature 80

Chapter VII Ajaccio

{continued) Its topography (continued) — The Borgo (continued) — The new quarter ....... 81 Fever and its peculiarities 81 Recent and prospective building 82 General remarks — Compactness of Ajaccio, and how this is managed . . . -83 General advantages of the Flat system 84 Local disadvantages . . . . . . . . . .85 Diseases ... ...... 86 A reflection _ .86 Water supply in the houses , 86 Ajaccian lodgings considered CONTENTS IX Climate— PAGE Its advantages ........... 88 A comparison .......... 90 Disadvantages . . 91 The winds — Their names ........... 92 The Sirocco or Levante . . . . . . . • • 93

Chapter VIII Corsican History

Ethnology of the Corsicans 95 History of Corsica in its external relations — Not one of activity . 96 But of struggles for independence ....... 96 Under Roman dominion . . . . . . . • ■ 97 ,, Saracenic dominion . . . . . . . .97 ,, Tuscan dominion . . . . . . . 97 ,, Papal dominion ......... 97 ,, Pisan dominion . . . . . . . . . 98 Under Genoese dominion ........ 98 Corsica as an independent kingdom . . . . ■ ■ 99 Under Genoese dominion — resumed . . . . . .100 During French war .......... 100 Corsican heroes . . . . . . . . . . 101 Paoli * . . . 101

Chapter IX Corsican

history (continued) History of Corsica in its internal relations Political development — The feudal aristocracy ......... 103 The mediæval revolution ......... 104 Admiration for Corsica in the last century . . . . .105 ,, „ ,, present , 10b Qualifications to grounds of admiration : reverse side of history . . 106 Factions 107 Vendettas 10S Political assassinations 109 Qualifications to popular notions about the Corsican democracy — The Corsicans not so democratic as is often thought . . .109 Former popularity of the aristocracy, and the reason . . . . no The cause of its extinction m The new nobility of the Terra del Comune in State of democratic sentiment at the present day . . . .112 X CONTENTS

Chapter X The Corsican Dialect Page

Of what language Corsican is a dialect . . . . . . . 114 Whether it is mixed or pure : foreign influences considered . . . 115 Arabic . . . . . . . . . . • ■ "5 Greek 116 German . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Genoese . . . . . . . ... . . -H7 French 1 17 Whether it is uniform or diverse . . . . . • • .118 Its two great divisions . . . . . . . . ..118 Which of these will be selected as a type . . . . . • 119 Its conservatism . . . . . . . . . ..119 Obsolete forms and expressions . . . . . . • .119 The ancient vocative . . . . . . • • ..121 Antique modes of greeting . . . . . . . .121 Old-world modes of address 122 Modern titles of address : use of signor ...... 123 ,, „ monsieur . . . . . . 123 the insular substitute . . . .123

Chapter XI

the CORSICAN dialect (continued) Its other peculiarities — Words— The sign of affirmation . . . . . . . . . 1 25 The adverb of negation . . . . . . . . .125 Peculiar nouns and verbs . . . 126 A peculiar interjection . . . . . . . . .126 Pronunciation . . . . . . . . . . . 127 The consonants .......... 127 The Corsican digamma . . . . . . . . . 128 The vowels . . . . . . . . . . .128 Novel theory of native philosophers . . . . . . 129 Suggested supplement . . . . . . . .130 The vowels (resumed) 131 General impressions — Impressions on the visitor . . . . . . . . .132 Native opinion . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Energy of speech ...... 133 Use of interjections 134 Nonsensical expletives ... . . . CONTENTS XI Its use and status — PAGF To what extent Corsican is spoken 134 ,, „ French ,, 135 ,, ,, Standard Italian is spoken . . . . . . 136 Further parallel with Italy 137

Chapter XII Life At Ajaccio

The hurry and bustle of modern life, how far exemplified at Ajaccio . .138 A day at Ajaccio ........... 139 How do the Ajaccians live ?......... 140 The lower classes — Poverty of lodgings ......... 141 Family charity ........... 141 Industry of the women ......... 142 The other classes — Southern hours of business ........ 142 Shop-keeping at Ajaccio ........ 142 Landed gentry ........... 143 Thrift 143 Number of pensioners . . . . . . . . . 144 Love of military rank . ........ 144 Love of Government employment ....... 146 Talent for pushing their way . . . . . . . 147 Leisure the end of living ......... 14S

Chapter XIII

life at ajaccio (continued) Disposal of the leisure acquired 149 Absence of intellectual pursuits . . . . . . . . 149 Evidence of the bookseller's shop . . . . . . . 1 50 Absence of religion . . . . . . . . ..151 Church and State 151 Causes of irreligion . . . . . . . . . . 152 The gentleman's day described . . . . . . . . 154 Love of discussion . . . . . . . . . . 155 A comparison .......... 156 The ladies' world — A separate world 157 Lack of entertaining 15S Mutual isolation of the sexes 159 Causes of lack of hospitality ........ CONTENTS XII

Chapter XIV Life At Ajaccio

(concluded) PAGE Society summed up ......... 163 Amusements for residents and visitors Shops 164 Public Library ........... 165 Theatre ............ 165 Love of music . . . . . . . . . . 1 66 Corsican music . . . . . . . . . . 166 The bagpipe .......... 167 Festivals of the Church 168 Funerals . . . . . . . . . . .169 Funeral customs in general . . . . . . ..171 Funeral lamentations . . . . . . . . .172 Funeral feasts . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Rapidity of interment and its consequences . . . . . 175

Part III The Bush Of Corsica And Of The Mediterranean Region Chapter

XV THE BUSH AS A MOOR Walks about Ajaccio . . . . . . . . . 179 Walk to the moors by the Sanguinary Islands road . . . . 179 Attractions of the road 180 Southern and Corsican indifference to natural scenery . . . 181 Walk on March 1, 1880— The day, &c 184 A modern Via Appia . . . . . . . . .185 The Cemetery . . . . . . . . . . 185 Brickyard ........... 186 The last cultivation . . . . 186 Enter the moors . 186 Up the mountain side 187 Deductions and reflections 188 The Sanguinary Islands 189 Plants wafted by currents . . . . . . . .190 CONTENTS XIII

Chapter XVI The Bush As

A SHRUBBERY PAGE The bush on the Serra — Half way up above the Cemetery — Sea level to 400 feet : south aspect 191 Sea level from 400-500 feet : north-east aspect .... 192 Saddle at 500 feet : south aspect 193 Along south slope : 500-600 feet 193 From saddle to crest near Cacaluvu ....... 195 Prospect ........... 196 From thence along top by south face 1 96 ,, ,, ,, north ,, 196 From clearing to highest point (1,700 feet) : east aspect . . . 197 From highest point downwards : south face 19S

Chapter XVII The Bush And Its Enemies

The bush a shrubbery either actual or potential . .... 201 Causes of its repression — Destruction by fire .......... 201 Destruction by the axe — For charcoal ........... 203 Charcoal in cookery ......... 203 Charcoal for exportation 204 Charcoal for smelting Elban iron ore ...... 204 Commercial value of charcoal and of bush ..... 205 Charcoal plants, kilns, and burners ...... 206 For firewood .......... 206 Firewood at Ajaccio ......... 207 For briarwood pipes 20S Destruction by pasturage 209 Destruction by pulling — For the ovens 210 Southern ovens 210 Cistus gathering at Ajaccio : . . 211 Summary . . . • ■ • • • • • ■ .211 The Forest of Ajaccio . . . . . . . . . . 212

Chapter XVIII The Bush As

A WOOD Inference that the bush must be a potential wood 213 Practical confirmation of the same 214 Reversal of judgment on Corsican vegetation CONTENTS XIV

Chapter XIX Review Of The Bush Page

Which of the three forms are bush proper . . . . . 216 Features of the bush proper — Variety of species and of tints of foliage ...... 217 Steepness of ground .......... 219 Rocks — Their peculiar forms, and how caused .219 Their peculiar colouring ......... 220 A qualification . . . . . . . . . .221 Effect of aspect upon denudation ....... 222 , ,, vegetation ....... 222 >

Chapter XX

review OF the BUSH (continued) Features of the bush (continued ) Aroma ............ 225 Flowers — Floral calendar of flowering shrubs ....... 226 The autumnal spring ......... 230 Fruits . . 231 Conclusion ............ 232 Milton and the Mediterranean bush 233

Chapter XXI

review of THE BUSH (concluded) The physiographical aspect of the bush — The bush a Mediterranean characteristic, and why .... 234 Its limits in the Mediterranean region ....... 236 Terms for the bush — In ancient Latin .......... 239 Connection between these and the Corsican . .... 239 some terms in Spanish and Portuguese 240 In ancient Greek .......... 240 In the present work .......... CONTENTS XV

Chapter XXII Game Page

Suitability of the bush for game ........ 243 The lesser game in Corsica 243 ,, ,, the neighbourhood of Ajaccio . . . . . 244 Birds in general, their scarcity in the bush . . . . . . 244 Exception : buzzards and ravens ....... 245 Causes of reputation of Corsica for game 247 Ajaccian sport ........... 247 Prominent position of blackbirds among game birds . . . . 248

Chapter XXIII

game (continued) Beasts of sorest and of chase — General observations on their size in Corsica 252 The hart 252 Conditions for its well-being in Scotland 253 How far fulfilled in Corsica 254 The wild sheep 256 Characteristics of wild sheep in general ...... 256 ,, ,, the Corsican species ...... 25S The term ' Mouflon ' and its origin 259 Habitat 261 The mouflon in domesticity — ■ In Corsica . . . . .... ... 262 F. Cuvier's experience 263 Morahsation 263 The wolf ■ ■ -266 Absence of noisome beasts in Corsica . . . . . . 266 The bear 267 The fox 268 Influence of foxes upon presence of rabbits 268

Chapter XXIV Bandits

Connection between the bush and bandits 270 The term ' Bandit,' its connotation and denotation .... 270 Connection between Corsican bandits and Corsican murders . . . CONTENTS XVI Murders— PAGE In hot blood : facilities for their commission 272 In cold blood — The Vendetta 273 Effects of general vindictiveness of character . . • • 274 Method of procedure adopted by outlaws for murder — The murder 276 The outlaw in the bush ......••• 277 The murderer before justice ■ • 279 Possible complications .....-••■ 2°I Authority for the account 2%3 Proposed remedy and its connection with the bush .... 284 Its futility 284 Its reactionary character ........ 284 APPENDICES

Appendix

A.— As to whether the beech tree is a native of Britain or not 289

APPENDIX.

B. — On the pronunciation of the consonants in the Corsican dialect • • . . 291

APPENDIX.

C— Specimens of current Corsican ballads . . .298 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Ajaccio Frontispiece The Landing Quay at Ajaccio (From the Hotel de France) To face p. 53 The Greek Chapel, on the Sanguinary Road . ,, 183 The Bush of the Serra (near Barbicaglia) . . ,, 191 Grove of Arbutus in the Bush (near Barbicaglia) ,, 213 Map op Corsica ,, 69 ,, ,, the Bay of Ajaccio .... . End of Volume Part I INTRODUCTORY AND TOURISTICAL B The Marseilles route

Chapter I Going South

There are more ways than one of reaching the South. Those usually selected for description are the rugged paths which cross the Pyrenees, or the marvellous roads which penetrate the Alps ; and the impression of contrast received by the traveller on passing the watersheds of those moun tain barriers to descend abruptly into a new world is indeed a source of never-ending delight. The direct way to our present destination does not lie by routes so attractive. The line of railway from Paris to Marseilles is never voted particularly beautiful ; and the gradients which take us from the basin of the Atlantic to that of the smiling Medi terranean are scarcely so steep as to be readily perceptible. Yet even here there is much of interest. Here, as on the slopes of the rocky Pyrenees, a transition is effected to the Southern vegetation, and is effected with a suddenness, the learned affirm, that is not to be surpassed elsewhere in Europe.1 1 ' Nulle part on ne connait de paysage plus brusque d'un domaine floral a un autre que sur le point oil, entre Montelimar et Orange (440 25' L.N. ), commence dans la vallee du Rhone la culture de l'olivier.

L'impression est d'autant plus vive que l'on n'a pas besoin, comme pour entrer en Italie, de franchir les Alpes ; ici les formes meridionales de la flore mediterraneenne se presentent sans intermediate aucun, cote & cote avec la vegetation de l'Europe septentrionale, et cela avec une telle abondance qu'en France on ne compte pas moins de six cents vegetaux agglomeres dans le triangle entre Nice, Orange et Perpignai (Grisebach's Vegetation der Erde,' translated by P. de Tchihatchef, vol. i. p. 350 ; Paris, Bailliere et Fils, 1877). B Part I 4 INTRODUCTORY AND TOURISTICAL North of England to Paris It seems at one time during that journey as if the longed-for transformation were never coming. Between the north and the south of our own England there is not an essential difference of landscape ; nor yet can the difference be termed essential between the general landscape of Southern England and the general landscape of Northern France.

Accidental difference there is, of course. Open fields replace enclosures ; the proportion of arable land increases, whilst that of grass land correspondingly diminishes. The country, too, has often a bareness which to English notions seems a little strange. Woods there are, and large woods too, larger perhaps than are common at home * but, almost paradoxical as the statement may sound, woods need not give a wooded appearance. The wooded appearance of our English counties is due, not so much to the timber of woods, as to the scattered trees of innumerable hedgerows. Where, consequently, as in many parts of France, hedges and fences of all sorts are absent, there trees are absent also, and the open stretches between the woodlands seem to an Englishman extremely desolate. Yet this is the work, not of Nature, but of man.

Nature has here been differently modified, but Nature remains asshe is with us. The woods of oak, with their undergrowth of hazel ; the soft turf by the sides of the roads ; the briar and the hawthorn, the bramble and the blackthorn, constitute the groundwork of the natural vestment in the north of France as in the north of England. The farm crops also are the farm crops we know. Turnips, potatoes, rye-grass, and clover are as old friends to set us on our way ; and when, after leaving the wheat-growing plains, we enter narrow and pastoral valleys, then the scenery loses its peculiarities, and becomes in our eyes wonderfully familiar. Paris to Lyons Lyons to Marseilles Green meadows and frequent enclosures ; lofty trees in thick succession ; banks of coppice and close sward ; country houses and snug villages, all unite to form a landscape which many imagine to be purely English.

For some little distance to the south of Paris the aspect of the country remains unchanged. The first novelty is the sight of vineyards. These make their appearance by gradual instalments, and, by the time that we have penetrated to the French Midlands, are pretty general on the slopes of the hills. The vine is attended by the chestnut and the walnut ; and the last two trees, dotted about the tillage, serve to improve the clothing of the country. But although there is thus much of change in the farm, there is no change at all in the garden, or in the forest : the bare woods are still of oak, the ragged gardens poor in evergreens. It is not until Lyons is well left behind that the dull uniformity begins to yield, and tokens at last begin to appear, not only, as in the Midlands, of warmer summers, but, what is more generally welcome, of milder winters.

And the process commenced, goes on rapidly. By the time we have reached the station of Orange we have said good-bye to the grey North. I am supposing, of course, that we travel by stages. I am also supposing the stages arranged so that all France be seen by daylight. That, however, is rarely effected. If, as is the more generally adopted plan, we make no break between London and Marseilles, and if, as is also usually done, we leave Paris by the night express, we then traverse the Midlands by night, and find ourselves arrived (according to the season) at Orange or at Monte limar by break of day. The surprise awaiting us is then great. Part I 6 INTRODUCTORY AND TOURISTICAL The change of Atmosphere The change in Orography One thing truly is very charming. We have escaped at last from misty skies.

The sun appears at the hour he is due, and soon so warm do his rays become, that we discard with pleasure, as the morning advances, the wrap pings to which we have hitherto clung. The sky is cloud less, clear to hardness. The very band of warm-tinted haze into which the blue ordinarily melts is here found to be almost wanting. The blue comes down to near the horizon, and against the curtain of limpid azure objects stand out in a sharp-cut relief that seems at first anything but natural. Another matter for congratulation. We have actually escaped from the European lowlands. From north to south of little England, from north to centre of extensive France, the whole country traversed by the line may with fair accuracy be termed ' lowland.' But we have now quitted the greater plains : we have entered on a region of hills and mountains, and discover glimpses, as we speed on our way, of giant peaks and of Alpine snows.

Do we not seem to have struck a note, which will long reverberate through our tours in the South ? The South, not only of France, but of Europe, together with the borders of the continents opposite, may be characterised in the main as a region of mountains. Italy, Greece, and Asia Minor, Syria, Algeria, Morocco, and Spain, are tracts of land more or less mountainous. In much of England, and in many parts of France, thousands and hundreds of thousands of persons have never in the course of all their lives seen such a thing as a real mountain. But such an omission would be rare in the South. Mountains are commoner in the South than plains, and the various associations of mountain scenery are part and parcel of national thought. A drawback The change in Agricul ture The Olive tree These two things, the sun and the mountains, constitute in themselves inspiriting sights.

Yet every ' prospect ' does not ' please.' There is much, without doubt, in the sunny South which the Northern eye scarcely admires. If the skies of the north be dull grey, yet the earth beneath them is beautifully green ; and so perennial is this garb of verdure that we most of us cease to notice its presence. In its absence, however, we are aware of our loss. And this is the case unfortunately here ; for of the early impressions received in Provence, the absence of green is perhaps the chief. The general situation may be thus described : We find ourselves hastening through a fluvial valley, which slightly suggests that of the Rhine, but differs from the type re garded as Rhenish in showing by the river a flat plain, the width of the latter averaging about a mile. The enclosing hills are rugged and arid, having but few trees, scant turf, and a large proportion of brown tillage that is destined, one presumes, mostly for vines.

The rage for tillage ex tends to the valley. The valley bottom, with its dykes and embankments, has all the signs of regular floods, and would, if it were in England, be mainly in grass, but, as a matter of fact, is mainly in tillage. The tillage, too, is of a novel kind. The fields are open, as elsewhere in France, but differ from those of the northern provinces in being divided by ditches into the smallest of parcels, and in being inter minably planted with rows of mulberry trees. With the latter pruned as regularly as they are planted, the valley appears like a great market-garden. As the train approaches the neighbourhood of Orange, trees of another sort come into view, set, be it noticed, on dry ground, and in great part on the slopes of the hills. The change in Horticul ture They are small, and are almost as formal as the mulberries, but they possess, on the other hand, an evergreen leaf.

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