The Pedestrian in France and Switzerland

Front matter

THE PEDESTRIAN IN FRANCE AND SWITZERLAND, BY GEORGE BARRELL, Jr., AUTHOR OP "BUBBLES OF FICTION." NEW YORK: G. P. PUTNAM & CO., 10 PARK PLACE. 1853. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, By GEORGE B A RR E L L, J R., In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York. PRINTED BT Billin and Brothers, 20 North William St, N. Y. STKRIEOTYPBJD UY THOMAS B. SMITH, 316 William St. N. Y. Jfxziizt. The reader of the following pages will not find either accounts of distinguished persons or their entertainments, neither politics nor minutely-drawn pictures of European cities, but a plain account of what was seen during an ex tensive tour through France, Switzerland, and neighboring countries. The writer came iu contact with but little of what is termed high life, his object being to study the people, and become acquainted with their habits and amusements.

Travelling almost entirely on foot, and nearly in the garb of a peasant, he, of course, had an opportunity of mix ing with that portion of the population least generally seen by tourists; and by adopting that mode, was enabled to behold scenes which the fashionable traveller would have sought in vain. No apology is offered for the work, which is an unpre tending narrative of humble life. His object in making the foregoing statement is to prevent those who read the book from being disappointed as regards its character. New- York, Awjust, 1833. CflitUnts.

Chapter I. Page

Havre to Harfleur.— French pilot boats — Cap la Heve-— Enter the port of Havre— A gend'arme — Features of the town — Adieu to Havre — Ingouville — Movable shops and donkey cart — Washerwomen — Harfleur — The water-carrier — Mine inn — My hostess and her son — The husband — A ramble — Le mois de M 'trie — The wine of Normandy . 13

Chapter II

Lillebonne. — View from my window — A lucky youth — La Botte — In a blouse — Cottages — Market-place of St. Romain — Lillebonne — Cooking a dinner — An independent character — A dun— The bread-carrier— The Roman theatre . 21

Chapter III

Market day in Caudebec. — View from the hill above Lillebonne — Roads — Cantonniers — Crows — Cross and crucifixes — On the way to Caudebec — Gatherers in the road — Normandy — View of Seine — Caudebec — Dutch scenery — Market-day in Caudebec — A Fair — Halle aux Bles — How they talk in Caudebec — . The Professor from Paris — Extracting teeth — Why the gend'arme was there . 28 CHAPTER TV. Rouen. — Le Trait — Duclair — La Fontaine — Bank-houses — Picturesque rockfl — Martin de Saint Georges — Cider and water — Orchards — Rouen from the hill Canteleu— The Octroi— Rouen— Place de la Pucelle— La Rue de la Grosse Horloge — La Cathedrale de Notre Dame— A celebration — Organ-playing — At night 36

Chapter V

Li Marchand de Rouen.— Petite Couronne — The peasant in his cart— Have you come from far ?— Doubt— A settler— Great Crown— A gloriat— Le MariBchal de fer— Soldiers of France— We three— Trinquing— French swearing— About the sun— Brionne— Malbrouk— America and France .... CONTENTS. VI

Chapter IX

Avranches. — Madame Le Eort — Crucifixes — Exquisite view — The Gon — A dreary picture — A peasant woman — Hills — Villedieu les Poeles — A diligence — Avranches — Mont St. Michel from the Jardin des Plantes 64

Chapter X

St. Malo. — The youth of Dinan — Tobacco fields — Dol — Communion des Enfants — About my passport — The book of the police — Coast scene — St. Malo — Brittany— Peasants of St. Malo 72

Chapter XI

Dinan and St. Brieuc— The river Ranee— The walls of Dinan — Rue de Jersuel— Breton coats— Fields of Gon— The family by the wayside— A sorest— Jugon — Finasque and its inhabitants — The cobbler of St. Brieuc — Costume of the men 77

Chapter XII

Guincamp. — The bearded peasant woman— A foire — Guincamp — Roofs — The roads of La Vendee— The dismal village— A disgusting sight— The delightful language of Brittany !— The wedding-dance— Who paid the fiddler ?— Soupe maigre et soupe au lait— How they make soup— Frogs— Norman and Britain inns - . 82

Chapter XIII

Morlaix and Huelooat.— The crucifix of stone— In a cart— Morlaix— The Breton youth— The man of the hills— Finding the road— Huelgoat— The silver and lead mine— Descent into the mine— Bretons on horseback — Smoking — Carhnix —Tho Chaumiere— The old woman spinning, and the old man smoking— Before the fire .88 CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XIV. Page

Quimper to Pont Scorff.— An odd tenement — Cabarets— Breton piety — Breton dress— The sabot-maker— Quimper— The cathedral— The mother and her chil dren—Ball-playing—The wayside church — Bone house — Lighting my pipe— Rosporden — Beggars aud the gend'arme — Oxen and tethering— Quimperle— Pont Scorff— A Breton Fair 96

Chapter XV

Nantes. — Adieu to Brittany. — Leave the climate of Brittany — Hennebon — A wedding march — Robber's Wood — Vannes — Weighing the diligence— A chateau— Nantes — The Noyades and republican marriages— Adieu to Brittany . 103

Chapter XVI

Angers and Saumur. — Leave Nantes— A vineyard — Black tower of Oudon — Women from Paris— Colored fields — Spinning with distaff and spindle — Anjou —Blue Beard's Castle — Angers — Castle-towers — Evening service — Bread in France — The German Tailor — Saumur— The temple of the Druids — Les Compagnons — Night scene in the inn 11)7

Chapter XVII

Orleans. — Paris. — Bourges. — Auvergne. — Bracelets — Road by the Loire — Chouze— Cathedral of Tours— Touraine— Orleans— Little Red Riding Hood- Road to Paris — Glimpse of Paris — The French student — Bourges — Meteor- Railroads in France — Cathedral of Bourges — Nevers — Moulins — Mountains of Auvergne — Mayet d'Ecole — Dancing 114

Chapter XVIII

Clermont. — Gannat — Parisians bound for Africa — Acquiperse — Montferrand — Clermont — The petrifying fountain — Visit to the Puy de Dome — The ascent — View from top— The volcanoes— The hidden hamlet — Jealousy— Actors in the Place 122

Chapter XIX

Clermont to Bayonne. — Leave Clermont — Peaked horse collars — Roche Bonnevie et Murat — Vale of the Alagnon — Tunnel — Puy de Griou — Plomb de Cantal — An extinct crater — Valley ofthe Cere — House roofs — Pas de Compain — Pns de la Cere — Val de Vie — Aurillac — Montauban — Grisolles — Market-place of Toulouse — Auch — The mail coach — Tarbes — The Berret — Shoeing oxen — Pau — Monk from Spain — Poplars — Orthes — Reach Bayonne .... 129

Chapter XX

Biaritz and St. Jean Pied de Port. — The Pyrenees. — Bayonne — Bayonet — Allees Marines — The Basquaise — Streets of Bayonne— The cigarette — Smoking in theatre— Biaritz— The Curate— Porte d'Espagne— The Pyrenees— Bare fee* —Looking back towards Bayonne— Hay field— St. Jean Pied de Port— Ball-playing— Ports CONTENTS.

Chapter XXI. Page

Mauleon to Bedous in the Val d'Aspe.— Musical bells— The gipsey youth— Gend'armes at Saint Just— Grape vines— View from hill— Spanish costumes — Corn bread — Patois in France— Lizards and snails— Mauleon— Tarditz— St. Mathory— Oleron— Men from Spain— Val d'Aspe— Bedous . . . -141

Chapter XXII

Bedous to Les Eaux Chaudes. — Leave for Escot — The chapel — Curious crosses and crucifixes— Escot— The train of travellers— Milk— Bottle— A lively party — Laruns — Route to tbe baths — My tall companion — A sensation — Life in Les Eaux Chaudes 147

Chapter XXIII

Pic du Midi d'Ossua. — Val d'Ossua — Bridge of Hell — The Gave — Fairy ribbons — Box and flowers — View of the Pic — Gabas — The douane— The Pic du Midi d'Ossua — The guide — Les Eaux Bonnes 152 CHAPTER xxiv. Les Eaux Bonnes to Bruges. — For the Col de Tortes — Sunrise among the mountains — View from the Col de Tortes — A disappointment — Capulets and Capas — View in Bruges 156 CHAPTER xxv. Bareges. — Two gend'armes — How they were puzzled — Questions and mystery — En Cacolet— Nay— Cruchon, Tasse, Chopine, and Pinta— L'Estelle— St. Pe— The paradise of Argelez— Pierrefitte— Tip from Luz— The melancholy place called Bareges — The population of Bareges 1G0

CHAPTER XXVI.

Arreai:.— Valley or the Neste de Louron.— View from the Pass of the Tourmalet — The fog-ocean— Grip— Deserted village — The clearing of the fog — Arreau — Valley of the Neste de Louron — View from hillside — The hamlet on the hill 165

CHAPTER XXVII.

Foix.— For the Port de Peyseroudes— Pyrenean flowers— The Port— The Valley l'Arboust— Bagneres de Luchon— Firs for the eve of St. John — St. Guadens— Scythes— St. Malhory— The Pyrenees and the Alps— The chapel and the indulgence— St. Girons— Descent to Foix— The castle of Foix, and why it was once surrendered — The Polish family m jgg

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Carcassonne and Narbonne. — Bound for Carcassonne — A plain — Carcassonne —Tho old city— Gipsies of Spain— In diligence for Narbonne— The militaire and his wife— Tho youth that wished to be something— Narbonne— People in harness— The south of France— Deserted villages and ugly villages— Gipsies CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER XXIX. PAGE

Beziers. — Montpellier.— Nismes.— Avignon. — Beziers — The Mediterranean — The girl in the cafe — Drawing — A noise below — Olive-trees — Wine and oil —Montpellier — Promenade de Perou— Fountain ofthe Graces — Dog-day—Ex ercise of the military— Nismes— Esplanade— Amphitheatre— Maison Carre- Canal— Washerwomen and girls— Public garden — Fountain of the Nymphs — The Tourmagne — Beaucaire — Tarascon— Avignon — From the Rock — Singing cafes — Aries 181

CHAPTER XXX.

Marseilles. — Marseilles — The Grand Cours and Cannebier — View of cathedral and Mediterranean — Women in the streets— The procession of the Fete de Dieu — The Cafe Turc — An incident at night — The custom of tbe town — Officers from Africa — Procession of the Virgin — The grand procession — Rockets and fire— The faces of the crowd — A cry . . 188

CHAPTER XXXI.

Marseilles to Savoy. — La Vista — Aix— Manosque — The Durance — Sisteron — Gap— Changing mountains— Embrun — Briancon— To Moneslier — Sun-dials — The chapel by the way — Valley of the Guisaime— Col de Lauteret — V'dlard d'Arene— View of La Grave — Deep defile— La Grave — What they burn there — Brown bread— Combe de Malval — Romauche — Gorge des Instructs— Combe la Gavet— Vizille to Grenoble— Grenoble— Cafe Pantomime et Chateau des Fleur3 — A collision — Valley of Gresivaudan — The procession — Passport not en regie— Enter Savoy ! 195

CHAPTER XXXII.

Chambery and Geneva.— Enter Savoy— Les Echelles— Down from the tunnel — Chambery— Fountain of the Elephant— Music on the promenade— Aix les BaiDs — View of Geneva — Enter Switzerland — Geneva— The Rhone — The approaching fele — Au revoir to Geneva — By the shore of Lake Leman— Ves-, sels — The road — A stranger — Handworkers — Nyon — Rolle— Thunder-storm . 203

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Rolle.*— Neufchatel. — Biel.— Leave the Lake— The Castle of Aubonne — Lnke Neufchatel — Orbe — The Castle, and what occurred in 1475 — Rainbow — Yverdun — Laughable occurrence — Lake of Neufchatel — Our passengers — Neufchatel— Arches— The Lake of Biel— Rousseau's island— His account of it —Something about Rousseau— German Switzerland— Emptying a cistern— Biel— An Alpine song 209

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Berne and Freyburg.— Nydau— Houses and gardens— Aarburg— The green -river — View of Kerne— The bears— Sights of Berne— Arcades— The fete on the platform— Costume of the female peasantry— Glimpse of the Alps— Head wings— The suspension bridge of Freyburg— Gorge of Gotteron— Freyburgian rootiime— ThP lime tree 218 i# X CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXV. PAGE

Lausanne to Martigny. — Payerne and Moudon — Lausanne — Geneva again — How the town was changed — Sabbath evening — Programme of the fete— Place du Tir— How they shot— Mont Blanc— Vevay— A pedestrian exquisite— Clarens — Castle of Chillon— Villeneuve — Bex — St. Maurice— Falls of the Sallenche — Martigny 224

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Martiony to Chamouni.— Leave Martigny— Up the Forclaz— The valley of the Rhone— Trient— Tete Noir— Enter Savoy— Glacier of Argentiere— Vale of Chamouni — Cascade des Pelerins — What glaciers are— Glacier of Bossons. . 231 CHAPTER XXXVH. Le Mer de Glace.— Le Jardin.— Nant Bourant.— Girls with crystals, and the girl with flowers— Beggars— Hospice of Montanvert— Mer de Glace— Excursion to the Jardin— Source of the Arveyron— The Arve—" Pardon, Mr., je suis perdu"— Col de Vosa— Sleds— Valley of Montjoie— Nant Bourant— Scraps from the Traveller's-Book , 238 CHAPTER XXXVni. Over the Mountains to Aosta.— Imposition at Nant Bourant— Ascend the mountain— Plain des Dames— Tracks in the snow— Col de Bonhomme-Chalets of Chapieu— Col de la Seigne— Down-hill— Alpine scenery— Alpine flowers —Glacier of Miage— Mont Blanc— Cormayeur— Morgex— Eed coata and red waistcoats— Mont Blanc again— Vineyards— A Cretin— The cursed city of Aosta— Churches of Aosta— The Army of Italy 245

CHAPTER XXXIX.

The Hospice of St. Bernard.— Morning view of the valley of Aosta— Mules and hay— Purgatory and Hell— St. Remy— View of the Hospice of St. Bernard— Dogs— The traveller's room— The monks of the establishment— The dead house— The mother and child— Back to Martigny 252

CHAPTER XL.

The Baths of Leuk.— Riddes— Hills ot Zion— Rural Scenery— Sierre— Women around the Fountain— Costume ofthe Canton Vallais— Lost among the mountains—The mower— Gallery on the route— Les Bains de Loeches— The Ladders—The baths, and what was seen therein .256

CHAPTER XLI.

Frutigen.— Pass ofthe Gemmi— Dauben See— Creased rocks and avalanches— The dying sheep— Swnrenbach— Kandersteg— Swiss houses— Kander river- Variety of weather— Frutigen n^ r CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER XLII. PAGE

Thun to Lauterbrunnen. — Valley of the Kander — Stockhorn and Niesen — Thun — Lake of Thun — Interlachen — Lake of Brientz — Gorge of the Liitshine — Valley of Lauterbrunnen— Perpendicular mowing — Staubbach Falls — Deceptive pictures — The goatherds and their flock 2G7 CHAPTER XLIH. Thk Jungfrau. — The Staubbach by sunlight — Guides — View from the height — At the base of the Jungfrau — Avalanches — Hotel de la Jungfrau — The Alpine horn — Female travellers — Troublesome girls — The dead sorest . . . 272

CHAPTER XLIV.

Grindelwald to Hospenthal. — Over the great Scheideck — Shrieking through a tube — Baths of Rosenlaui — The falls of the Reichenbach — Meyringen — Route to Handek — The wild youth — Handek — The falls of the Aar — Hospice of the Grimsel — Lake of the Dead — Rhone glacier — Pas3 of Furca — Hospenthal . 276

CHAPTER XLV.

Andermatt to Basel.— Farewell to Switzerland. — Andermatt — Hole of Uri— The Devil's Bridge— The Devil's Stone— Amsteg— Altorf— Tell— Fluelen — Lake Lucerne — Tell's Chapel — Bay of Uri — Gersau — Weggis — The Wedge — Summit ofthe Rigi — View — Thunder, wind and lightning — On Lake Lucerne — The bridges of Lucerne — Sunset view from the Promenade — Norman scenery — Aepfel wein — Music and waltzing — The female blacksmith — Over the Albis — Zurich — Railroad in Switzerland — Regiment of boy soldiers — Poppies —The Rhine— Storks— Basel— Minster— Farewell to Switzerland . . .280

CHAPTER XL VI.

Strasbourg and Baden-Baden. — Strasbourg — The Minster — Vespers — Swarms of soldiers — Storks in Strasbourg — Costume of the people — Leave France — Kehl — Passport — An arrest — The commandant — The red sash — Baden-Baden — Entrance into Hell forbidden by Cerberus 286"

CHAPTER XL VII.

Heidelburg.— Level country— The railroad and the cars— Carlsrhue— Eclipse of the sun — Heidelburg — Inn Zum Ritter— Students — The Castle of Heidelburg— From the Terrace 292

CHAPTER XLVIII.

Heidelburg to Mainz.— By the winding Neckar — Road and foot-route poles — Erbach — Wild huntsmen — Nothing but geese— The Eilwagcn to Darmstadt — The sorrowful Frau — Scholars — Darmstadt — Francfort — Cafe haus — The narrow black street — Mainz — Well-employed day— View from my window . CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XLIX.

_ PAGE Descent of the Rhine— Chateau of the Duke of Nassau— Eltville— The Bromserhof and the legend— Bingen— The Mouse Tower— Bishop Hatto ; his fate- Castles and towers— The Rhine and the Hudson 300

CHAPTER L.

Beloium— Paris.— England. — Home.— Cologne — Aix-la-Chapelle — Liege- Brussels— Paris again— The hotel garni— Sketches of Paris— Pere la Chaise— The Mimic battle— Havre-Across the channel— Southampton, England— A storm at sea— Conclusion ■IIk fetustriait in jfrante antr Stoitjerlani.

Chapter I. Havre To Harfleur

French pilot boats — Cap la Heve — Enter the port of Havre — A gend*arme — Features of the town — Adieu lo Havre — Ingouville — Movable shops and donkey cart — Washerwomen — Harfleur — The water-carrier — Mine Inn — My hostess and her son — Tbe husband — A ramble — Le mois de Marie — The wine of Normandy. About noon on Tuesday, April 29th, 1851, I beheld the distant shores of England. The land was Lizard Point. When we caine nearer, the high, green-tinted shores, and the lighthouses were seen. In the extreme distance was Land's End. Our vessel was the William Tell ; and we had been long upon the ocean, having left New York on the first of the month. We saw, for the first time, the French pilot boats. They were short, with great breadth of beam, and a very deep keel, and perpendicular bows ; they were sloop-rigged with heavy shrouds, and were tossed about, and up and down like corks upon the water, while the entire vessel was, from time to time, drenched by the spray.

We wondered how the lit tle craft could manage to live in a tempest, when even the slight breeze we then experienced caused her to plunge so violently. One of them pranced up to us ; a pilot sprang up our side, and gave us welcome and a roll of newspapers which were about a fortnight old. That afternoon, as we sailed along, Eddystone lighthouse and fleets of red-sailed fishing smacks were seen ; but at times they were hid by driving showers. With the early sun, the view of the coast of France was obtained. We saw the lofty highlands of Cap la Heve, on which were the lighthouses beheld the night previous. Un der this headland are chalk cliffs, which descend wildly to the sea level, where many high rocks are piled in grandeur, with the sand sloping among them. These rocks were the favorite resort of the author of that entertaining works" Paul et Virginie."

After so long a stay upon the water, the land appeared beautiful and refreshing in our eyes ; slightly cov ered was it with grass, and on the summit revolved the sails of a windmill. Owing to the great rise and fall of the tide, docks are necessary ; and at a certain time they are closed ; thus always giving the vessels enough water to float in. Had we arrived an hour sooner, we might have entered ; but as it was, we were forced to lie outside until the next day. Now we steered in ; and passing the old citadel built by Richelieu, entered the port. The citadel was crumbling, and formed a picturesque ob ject. Near it was the pier, on which were many strange costumed people, with any quantity of soldiers, and one or two gend'armes ; while three quarters of the males' faces were hidden by moustaches and beards.

The sailors did their best in singing while working at the windlass, warping in the vessel ; and while thus occupied, a gend'arme came on board, and collected our passports, which were taken to the bureau de police. Thither I had to pro ceed soon after landing, and take up a passe provisoire, or provisional passport, while my own was sent to Paris, to re ceive the signature of the Ministre de l'lnterieur, without which no foreign pass is of use, and without which no one is permitted to travel in the countrv. From the deck we saw the leading features of the town ; tall narrow houses of a dingy crumbling stone, and very dirty, with dormer windows ; a fountain squirting away streams of water ; women and girls about it ; and all the population wearing sabots — huge wooden shoes, which, though preferable to those of leather for durability, are yet highly injurious to the feet, cramping them not a little.

The peo ple also appeared different from those I had been accustomed to see ; mainly owing to the sabot and the blouse — a smock frock of blue cotton. Our luggage was conveyed to the Custom house, near the quay; and when we descended, another gend'arme searched us, to see if we had any contraband articles. They were also very strict in examining the luggage ; and though everything was tumbled out of my trunk, and every parcel felt in the search for tobacco, they did not discover the pound weight of the weed I had neatly rolled up in a newspaper. I was much pleased with Havre, having wandered through all the narrow dirty streets. As was the case with all other villages and towns in France, they rarely have sidewalks, the streets being paved with square blocks of stone, which are painful to the feet.

The principal street is called la rue de Paris, and boasts of a few shops, and an old church. Having placed my trunk in safety, there to remain till my pedestrian tour was ended, and it should be written for from Paris, I fitted on my knapsack, and bid adieu to Havre. Everything had been arranged for a tour on foot ; my knapsack contained the necessary articles of clothing, with an umbrella lashed on top. With that and with my tough walking-stick, I set forth to see the country as it was; to mix with the inhabitants ; fall in with their ways and customs ; and more perfectly learn their language. The pedestrian may expect to have a "rough time." Though at first he will be quite fatigued, yet in a few days the effect will pass away, his health will be improved, and he will receive much information, and have much more amusement by travelling in that humble way, than by the usual mode in trains and stages.

In the afternoon I passed through the Porte d' In gouville, and entered that suburb. In this place were many small shops, with the whole front exposed to view, and in which were every variety of goods offered for sale ; and there were also many movable shops in the streets. A frame about ten feet in length and four or five in breadth, was mounted upon two wheels ; and on it were heaped all the articles included under the name of fancy goods, knicknacks, and jimcrackery. The establishments were pushed along by either men or women, who warned the passers in loud voices that they had such and such things for sale. Donkeys — the smallest specimens of the beast — were common in the streets. There was one poor little fellow about the size of a large dog, dragging a cart in which were seated a couple of old women.

Their wooden-shoed feet dangled from either side ; and they beat the long-eared quadruped, and cried to him in a strange language. Ingouville is a very long town, though formed for the most part of only one street. The houses are lofty, and built of yellow stone, or covered with yellow plaster, — I can not recollect which at the present moment. Leaving Ingouville, a crumbling house was passed on the left, and in a moment or two the sound of women's laughter broke upon my ear. It proceeded from a square cistern filled with water, near the road, around which kneeled a dozen women, with their sleeves rolled to their shoulders, and bright handkerchiefs wrapped around their heads. Thev were washing clothes, and beating them with square pieces of wood. This is the custom in all France ; where there is a stream of water near a village, there you will see the female peasantry engaged in washing ; a tub was not seen during the whole of my extensive tour.

Leaving the confines of the town, the road passes through a pleasing country of entirely different character from our own. There were gentlemen's houses, the grounds being finely laid out, and beautifully ornamented with flowers ; and there was the river Seine glistening on the right, with a level country between us ; but owing to the absence of fences or hedges, the land presented a striking, novel, and picturesque appearance. When the summit of the slight hill over which the road passes was reached, in front were seen the tops of houses, and the church-spires of Harfleur. On nearer approach, the beauty of the place was more apparent. The spire is of the Gothic order, but rather decayed ; and the houses have leaden roofs : an air of antiquity was spread over all. I entered the town, but was completely at a loss to know where to find a hotel, and was also but imperfectly acquainted with the language of the country ; but noticing a man walk to a fountain, with a couple of pails, kept separate by the aid of a hoop, I followed him, and asked if he could tell me where there was an inn.

He immediately laid down his pails, and took me to one, where, although it was not grand in appearance, he said I would be well treated, and would have no cause to complain of the charges. He, as are all the rest of his nation, was very curious, and soon discovered that he was speaking to an American : when we had entered the little inn, he simply said that he brought " un homme d'Amerique," who wished a lodging for the night ; and in that little inn I met more attention from the whole family, and fared as well, and was as reasonably charged, as anywhere during my journey. I thanked the water-carrier for his trouble, and, unslinging my knapsack, seated myself at the table. The room was small, though very clean, and the floor was paved with brick, and strewn with sand. A bar stood in one corner, and two or three little tables were here and there, on which were chequer-boards and the favorite dominoes ; several pictures hung upon the walls.

The hostess, a healthy-looking middle-aged woman, asked if I should like to take anything ; and, being answered, placed before me a bowl of milk and pure white bread. While doing justice to them, she sat herself by my side, and asked questions about America. As it was a pleasing sub ject, we spent a considerable time in conversation. The French are always considerate. When talking with a for eigner, they are aware he does not understand their language as well as themselves, and always make allowance for it. Such was the case with my amiable hostess. She spake slow, and never laughed at the enormous blunders which continually escaped my lips, but took pains to correct my faults, and in such a manner, that no offence could be taken at her teachings. How different is the case when we hear a Frenchman trying to make himself understood !

And it was not thus with my hostess in particular, but every one seemed pleased that I could at all converse in the language, and wished me to attain greater perfection. The hostess removed the empty bowl and other articles, leaving me in company with two or three books, which were upon the table. They were prize books, received at school by her son ; and when on returning she saw me deeply en gaged in looking at the pictures, remarked that she was blessed in having a son that had carried off the prizes from all his fellows. Then she said she would show some of his writings, and handed me two or three copy books, well filled with delicate tracery — such kind of penmanship as a school boy produces when laboring for a reward. The mother, who idolized her son, said that he was every minute expected from the school at Havre, whither he went every day.

In a few minutes he came in. His appearance was pleasing. He no more resembled a Frenchman than does an Englishman. He was young, tall, and dressed in a perfectly clean blouse, over which was turned a spotless collar : his hair was light, and his complexion rosy ; and there was a freshness about him, as if he had just escaped from a shower bath. We shook hands, and were soon as busy in talking as my knowledge of the language would permit. He modestly showed more of his writings, and then sprung up to bid good afternoon to his father, who at tha't moment entered the room. We were introduced, and then we were four in company. His father was an original in appearance, and a baker by trade ; tall, stout, and dressed in a white blouse, with a string around his waist. His sleeves were rolled to his elbows, and his feet were stuffed into enormous sabots, amid heaps of straw — the straw was to soften the " wood" of the shoes.