Journal of a March from Delhi to Peshâwur, and from thence to Câbul, with the Mission to Lieut-Col. Sir C. M. Wade, etc

Front matter

JOUEIAL OF A MARCH FROM DELHI TO CABUL. FORT OF ALI-MUSJID_ KHYBER PASS. J Ms^den Si I ,m1 S"**** i JOURNAL OF A A MARCH FROM DELHI TO PESHAWUR AND FROM THENCE TO CABUL, WITH THE MISSION OF LIEUT.-COLONEL SIR C. M. WADE, Kt. C.B. INCLUDING TRAVELS IN THE PUNJAB, A VISIT TO THE CITY OF LAHORE, AND A NARRATIVE OF OPERATIONS IN THE KHYBER PASS, UNDERTAKEN IN 1839. BY LIEUT. WILLIAM BARR, BENGAL HORSE ARTILLERY. LONDON : JAMES MADDEN & CO., LEADENHALL-STREET. 1844. " The small fort of AH Musjid has, from its situation, long held the Sikhs in check; and it is not upon record that the celebrated Khyber Pass has ever previously been forced." — Extract from Lord Auckland's letter to the Secret Committee, Simla, August 29th, 1839. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. From Delhi To Kurnal

Preliminary observations — Departure from Delhi — Allepore — Treasure escort — Peculiar scene — Barotah — Soneput — The Emperor Musaood — His amazing strength — Gunnour — Sumalka — Paniput — Battle between Baber and Ibrahim II. — Conflict between the Affghans and Mahrattas — Garondah — Handsome caravanserai — Kurnal — Cantonments — View of the snowy Himalayahs Page 1

Chapter II. Kurnal To Lodianah

Leave Kurnal — Azimgurh — Leelokeerie — Watch-towers — Thanesur — Mahmood of Ghuzni — Attacks Thanesur — Destroys the idols — Adventure with a Rozinante — Shahabad— Long march — Amballa — Handsome bazaar — Heavy rain — Unpleasant prospect — The treasure-party — Peculiar costume — An unwelcome intruder — Novel thieves — March continued — Beautiful scene — The river Cuggur — Rajpoora— Visit from the Tahseeldar — A Sikh officer — Putarsie — Sirhind — Extensive ruins — Its antiquity — Kunha — Dowra-ke-6erai — Heavy shower — Lodianah — Bazaar— Encampment . . .19 CONTENTS. X

Chapter III. Lodianah To Lahore

Departure from Lodianah — Ghonspore — Siddum — Dhur'm Kote — Marriage procession — The bridegroom — Lieut. Rattray — Lose the road — Thick grass jungle — Futtehgurh — A thief — His escape — Makhoo — Its fort — Peculiar houses — Ride to the Sutledge — The "commandant" of Harike — His insolence — Encamp near the river — Visit from the "commandant" — Tedious detention — The solitary ferry-boat — The Sikhs — A welcome order — Passage of the Sutledge — Enter the Punjab — Camp at Harike — Visited by a Sikh of high rank — Method of constructing pottery — A baoli, or well — Putti — A cemetery — A saint's tomb — Sursing — Gipsies — Manihala — Akallies, or fanatics of the Punjab — Lahore — Encampment . Page 43

Chapter IV. Lahore

Palace gateway — Ridiculous embellishments — Colonel Foulkes — Death of General Allard — Visit from the Governor of Lahore — Anarcolli — A glass room— The painted chamber — A thunder-storm — Allard's country-seat — The General's body lying in state — Large mausoleum — Valuable sword — Costly shawls — the Maharajah's generosity — Novel method of increasing the value of a gift — Presents from the Maharajah — The golden mosque — The enamelled mosque — Diminutive idol — Aurungzebe's mosque — Its ruined condition — Marble summer-house — Rich decorations — The Hall of Audience — Its filthy state — Beautiful idea of the Emperor Jehanguire's — The royal entrance — Absurd portraits — A magnificent fountain — Its dirty condition — The Foundry — Abuse from the CONTENTS. XI Akallies — The Shalimar gardens — Enchanting scenes — Cabul horse-dealers — Eastern display — Antiquity of Lahore— State of the Maharajah's health — His excesses imitated by his nobles — Kurruck Singh — Dhian Singh — Sheer Singh — Now ni-hal Singh Page 69

Chapter V. Lahore To Rhotas

Departure from Lahore — The river Ravie — Sikh horse-artillery — Specimen of a Punjabee ferry— Riotous scene — 111 treatment of the fair sex — Cross the Ravie — Beautiful encamping ground — A halt — Mausoleum of the Emperor Jehanguire — Costly sepulchre — Barbarous spoliation — Long march — Bucka — Emminabad — Gujranwala — Cruel execution — Harri Singh's fort — Ridiculous representation of the battle of Jumrood — The idol — A caged tiger — Detention— Beautiful apartment — A riot in the "harem" — The Sirkani Bagh — Runjeet Singh's mausoleum — Nattih — Wuzeerabad — The Thannadar — His conduct and invitation — A funeral procession — The Chenab — Cross the river — Gujrat — A halt— A sporting box — Fatiguing march — Horrible barbarity — Dingie — " Leila," the celebrated horse — Desertion of the camel-drivers — Kohar — The river Jhelum, or Hydaspes — Arduous march — A fearful quicksand — A serious mishap — The fort of Rhotas— A ruined palace — Singular archway — Miserable city— The origin of Rhotas 119

Chapter VI. Rhotas To Peshawur

Departure from Rhotas— Adriana— Buckrala — The marauder's village — Extremely heavy rain — Disturbance in camp- Quicksands— Execrable road— Difficult passage— The Buckrala CONTENTS. XII pass — Dhamak — Pakke —Jihliara — Tope of Manikyala — Rawut-ke-serai — Beautiful scenery — The river Suhan — Narrow defile — Rawul Pindee — Jani-ke-sung — The Margulla pass— Disgusting sight— Hassan Abdal— Burhan — A hurricane — Severe weather — The river Arar — Busy scene — Un pleasant intelligence — Beautiful views — Awkward defile — Passage of the Indus — Khyrabad — Peshawur Singh, the go vernor — Fort of Attock — Junction of the rivers Cabul and Indus— The Geedar Gullie — Drunken jemadar — Countless graves— The Chief of Acora — Syddoo — A concert and dance — Sikh cavalry and artillery — Akallies — Nao Shahra — Beau tiful scene Engagement between the Sikhs and Affghans — Camel-stealing — The tribe of Eusoff Zhye — Pubbee — Allard's dragoons — Dancing bears — Lieutenant Maule — Arrival at Colonel Wade's camp Page 167

Chapter VII. Camp At Peshawur

A welcome to Peshawur — The Sikh company— Officers with the mission — Colonel Wade's camp — The prince's personal guards — Sikh discipline — The Shah-zada's state band — Douranee cavalry — Shah-zada Timour— General Avitabile — General Court —A durbar— The Shah-zada Hashim — The prince's doctor— His escape from prison— Khyberries — A parade of the Sikh troops— Breakfast with the governor — A novel dish — Nautch girls— Formidable matchlocks — A curious sword— the governor's house— Views from it— The City of Peshawur— Gateway to General Avitabile's house. CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter VIII. Camp At Peshawur

Leave Chumkunnie — A procession — Pass through the City — the houses of Peshawur — The fort of Peshawur — Breakfast with General Court — Ali Murdan — His history — General Court's artillery — Their excellent appearance — Their dress — A ride through the City — Strange costume of the women — A funeral — The Wuzeer-bagh — Its altered character — Lord's workshop — Quarters of the Khyberries — Affghan cookery — The fort of Peshawur — Description of its interior — Dowranee chiefs — Deserters — General Ventura — Mutiny of the Nujeeb regiment — Review of General Court's troops — Arrival of Prince Nownihal Singh — A durbar — Rajah Gholab Singh — Sultan Mahomed — Rajah Lena Singh — Rajah Ayah Singh — Prince Nownihal Singh — His magnificent jewels — the durbar tents — A princely gift — Rajah Gholab Singh's durbar — Expedition against Sadut Khan — A storm — Want of discipline—Spies — Methods of carrying secret despatches — An unwelcome emetic — Serious affray — A Chupar wounded — Occupation of Candahar — Noisy rejoicings — The Shah-zada's durbar — Ludicrous scene— Murder of a grass-cutter — Disgusting exhibition in the environs of Peshawur — Visit from Prince Nownihal Singh— An unwelcome intruder — An unlooked for reply — March to Takkal — Excessive.heat Page 253

Chapter IX. Camp At Koulsir

Vigilance in camp — A dust storm — An unpleasant rencontre — Lieutenant Mackeson's arrival — March to Koulsir — Separation ofthe British and Sikh camps — Mutiny ofthe Ghoorkas — Their conduct— A false conclusion — Dreadful accident— Strab CONTENTS. XIV tagem of Sadut Khan— Defeat ofthe levies— Messieurs Mouton and Bœuf— Sikh grass-cutters killed by the Khyberries — Op pressive heat — " Sardkhana" — F.'s narrow escape — Ludicrous scene — Preparations for an advance — Commencement of hos tilities — Jumrood — Matchlock practice — " Sangas" — Wahab and his band of Khyberries — Castle of Futtehgurh — Our bed room there — Colonel Wade's illness — Great sickness amongst the officers — Ludicrous report — Death of Runjeet Singh— A visit of condolence — The Cabul river at the Khyber range — Desultory skirmishes — An outwork thrown up — Battery practice—Unhealthy situation — Mosquitoes — The Shah-zada Zam boor's camp — Races — Serious affray at Jumrood — Mackeson's intrepidity — A chuprassie killed — Departure from Koulsir — Encamp at Jumrood — Our allies — Our foes . Page 291

Chapter X. The Khyber Pass

Commencement of active operations — March to Kuddum — The troops assemble — Beautiful and exciting scene — Ascend the pass in force — Confined spot — The force divides — Steep ascent — Fort of Ali Musjid — Encampment formed — Cowardice of the Nujeebs — Mackeson's boldness — His position — Desultory fighting — Dependence to be placed on raw levies — Our ammunition fails — Boldness of the Khyberries — Mackeson arrives with reinforcements, and drives them back — The deserters discovered — A comfortable position — Exposed spot — Rattray's party fired upon — The Shah-zada quits Kuddum — Wounded Sepoys— Baggage carried off — Ominous event — The brave Nujeebs — Ascend the heights on either side— Camp moved to Lall-cheenie — The Khyberries retreat to the summit of a lofty hill — Farmer's position — Impregnable stronghold—The pass below Ali Musjid— The Goorcherras — Re- CONTENTS.

XV turn to camp — Evacuation of Ali Musjid— Conclusion of ac tive operations— Severe illness — Intense heat — Ferris' convoy attacked — The brave Nujeebs again — Khyberrie deserters punished — Furious storm — Loss of camels — Ali Musjid garrisoned by our troops — March resumed— Sir-i-chusma — Lali beg-ghurrie — Grecian tomb — Pass of Lundy Khana— Exe crable road — Quit the Khyber Pass — Order by Colonel Wade Page 322

Chapter XI. From Dhaka To Cabul

Encamp on the banks of the Cabul river— Retreat of Sadut Khan — Lallpoora— Dhaka — Embark on the river — The Little Khyber Pass — Bad road — Hazarnow — Unhealthy country — Chardeh — Ali Boghan — Unpleasant occurrence — Ride the Shahzada's elephant — The Shah-zada's kindness — Jullalabad — Deserted streets — Increasing sickness ofthe troops — Charbagh— Balabagh — Gundamuck — Profusion of fruits— Capture of brass cannon — Soorkab — Excessive heat — Jugdulluck — Cruelty to Shah Zeman — Bareekhab — The Fakeer's Rock- Superstitious offerings — Tezeen — Delightful temperature — A lofty pass — The Khoord Cabul pass — Stragglers attacked and killed — Inspection of the Sikh troops — The Shah-zada's procession into Cabul 353

Chapter XII. From Cabul To Ferozepore

The City of Cabul— Animated scene— Weak state of health— The " Char-chuttur" or great bazaar— Hills of fruit— Predominant trades — Unhealthy encamping ground — Illness- Murder of Colonel Herring— Death of Captain Fothergill and of Captain Timmings— Thieves in camp— Review of the Sikh CONTENTS. XVI troops— The king of Cabul— The City— The Bala Hissar— Remarkable gravestone — Join the Army of the Indus — Ar rival of treasure — Beautiful scenery — Baber's Tomb — The kababs of Cabul — Departure for Hindoostan — State prisoners — Order of march — An accident— Bootkhak — Piercingcold in the Khoord Cabul pass — Deaths from the severity of the weather — The Puree-duree Pass — The rear-guard attacked — Estimated prize-money — Fort of Ali Musjid — Fatal effects of the climate in the Khyber Pass — Fearful massacre — The Khy berries attack Ferris' post — Detention at Peshawur — Misbe haviour of the Sikh troops — Defeat of the convoy — Fatal accident — Diabolical cruelty — Capt. Prole and Lieut. Macmul len wounded — Treachery of the Khyberries — Departure from Peshawur — Misconduct of the governor of Attock punished — Wah — lamentable and fatal accident — Hanging the baker — A Christmas plum-pudding — Kussoor — Arrival at Ferozepore — Conclusion of the march — The " Army of the Indus" ceases to exist — Honours awarded .... i%t<7e 369 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Ali Musjid Frontispiece Aurungzebe's Mosque 97 Fort of Rhotas 161 Indus at Attock 190 Entrance to Khyber Pass 324 Grecian Tope in Khyeer Pass ... .

Chapter I. From Delhi To Kurnal

Towards the end of December, 1838, when the excitement caused by the assembly and departure of " the army of the Indus" had subsided, and events were once more assuming their usually quiet course, I unexpectedly received an order to join Colonel Wade's mission, with a detachment of Native horse artillery, and two 24 pounder howitzers, fully equipped for field ser vice. The actual march of the army for Affghan istan had, naturally enough, suppressed any hope I might previously have entertained of joining its ranks ; and I seemed destined to pass another season, at least, in the " inglorious ease" of a cantonment life, instead of existing amidst the turmoil and bustle of a camp. The command that had now devolved on me opened a brighter x B r prospect, and I looked forward with intense pleasure to the time I should be traversing the rich and fertile plains of the Punjab ; that oft-coveted country, whose powerful but politic chief had ever been wise enough to cultivate an alliance with the British, and has thus obtained a position that places him at the head of all the independent princes.

I was at Delhi when the order reached me, and Colonel Wade was at Lahore (a month's march in advance), having gone there during Lord Auckland's visit to the " Lion of the Punjab," for the purpose of introducing to the Maharajah, Shah Shoojah's eldest son, the Shahzada Timour, who was to accompany the mission to Peshawur. Now, whether the mission formed a clause in the tripartite treaty between the British Government, Runjeet Singh, and Shah Shoojah-ool-Moolk, or whether it was happily thought of, devised, and put together during the Governor-General's so journ in the capital of the " Five Waters," is known only to the initiated ; but I believe the requisition for the British howitzers was only made to his lordship at that time, or orders for their junction with Colonel Wade's force would, no doubt, have been issued earlier.

As it was, before the ordnance could be supplied by the Delhi magazine, Colonel W. had left Lahore and advanced some distance on his way to Nowrungabad, a town on the banks of the Jhelum, some 350 miles beyond the Mogul capital, where he proposed spending a short time in furthering the objects of the mission, and where I hoped he would remain until I should be able to join him. On the 18th January, 1839, all was reported to be in readiness, and I was directed to commence my march on the 19th; but, in consequence of the very heavy rain that fell the previous day, it was necessary to postpone it to the following morning, as the tents and camp equipage were so saturated with water as to be too heavy for the camels to carry. This was vexatious, as already much time had been lost in replacing one of the howitzers, pronounced by a committee to be unserviceable; but the 20th, though a hazy day, was sufficiently fair to admit of a move, so I struck camp a little before dawn, and marched to Allepore, a miserable village, about ten miles from B'2 Delhi.

On the road we passed numberless ruins, which bore testimony to the grandeur and extent of the once magnificent capital of Hindostan ; and a dilapidated serai, about three miles from the city, pointed out the commencement of a series of such buildings, erected at various times and by different Mogul emperors, for the use of travellers from this to Cabul, which was for many centuries included in their extensive domains. At noon, as the sun was breaking through the mist, a large treasure-party arrived, under the command of Captain C, of the 54th N. I., who is convoying some 20,000 or 30,000 rupees to Lodia nah. He pitched his camp a short distance from mine, and after unpacking his treasure, a countless multitude of camels, upon which it had been carried, were taken away to browse. The after noon was fine, the mist having entirely cleared away, but there was nothing in the surrounding country of sufficient interest to induce me to take a ramble ; so, after seeing to the duties and protection of my camp, I adjourned to my tent, and ruminated on the gratification I expected to derive from traversing localities so little known to Europeans, and so celebrated as the scenes of Alexander's conquests.

January 21. — On proceeding to parade at half past three, a. m., I found a similar mist to that of yesterday had usurped the clearness of the sky, and the fires which the syces (grooms) had kin dled, to see how to put on the harness, as well as for the purpose of warmth, only served to make darkness more visible. The confusion, too, that it occasioned was manifested by the bawling of men, the peculiar and painful grumbling of camels having their loads strapped on, and the neighing of horses, who, coming together in the dark, set to and fought with vicious fury ; whilst here and there a steed that had broken from its picket was galloping about, and adding not a little to the uproar. About two miles from Allepore we were obliged to quit the high-road, in consequence of the late rains having swept away the bridge over Ali Murdan's canal, and there being no ford near the spot, we had to make a considerable detour ere we came to one.

The aspect of this was by no means satisfactory, the water being above three feet deep, with a steep bank, and awkward turning on the opposite side : however, we dashed through it, surmounted the ascent, and beyond a semi-ducking, got over without any accident. We halted at Barotah, a small village, which has nothing to recommend it but a good encamping ground, and so poor that we had to send to a town several miles distant for our supplies. January 22. — A beautifullybright and clear sky, in which the starry constellations were displayed with unusual brilliancy, enabled us at the com mencement of our morning's march, to pick our way with some feeling of security ; and fortunately it happened thus, for in many places the water was so deep, and the road so heavy, as to render it necessary to deviate considerably from the high way.

At sunrise we reached Soneput, which appears to have been at one time a town of some consideration, as its ruins are very extensive, and are still enclosed by a high brick wall, which in former days served to defend it. It is built on a lofty mound, which shows it to advantage ; and a few temples situated in gardens, or embedded in groves of trees in its environs, contribute not a little to its pretty appearance. A good deal of trade still passes through it, and at no great distance there is a ferry on the Jumna, whence roads branch off to the Doab and Rohilcund, where the merchandize is disposed of. In the year 1036, it was deemed of sufficient importance to cause Musaood of Ghuzni to march against it, when he invaded Hindoostan. This emperor was so celebrated for his strength and prowess, that he obtained the appellation of Roos tum (Hercules) the Second ; and it is averred he drew a bow with such might that an arrow from it would pierce through the strongest coat of mail, or the hide of an elephant, and that his battle-axe, like Richard Cceur de Lion's, was so ponderous and massive, that, beside himself, no individual could raise it single-handed.

Deipal, who was governor of Soneput at this period, did not think proper to await Musaood's arrival, but fled into the woods in such haste that he had no time to carry off his treasure, which, consequently, fell into the victor's hands, and who, on entering the town, gave orders to raze to the ground every temple, and to demolish every idol that should be found within its walls. Having done this he marched in pursuit of the governor, who had in the meantime collected his followers, with a reso lution to try his fate in battle : but he was surprised by Musaood before he could well assume the de fensive — his army surrounded and taken prisoners, and he himself, with the greatest difficulty, escaped in the habit of a slave. Musaood on his return to Ghuzni left a confidential officer in command of the fortress.

At the eleventh mile we came to Runjaree Burke Chowkie, where troops occasionally halt, but there is no vdlage near to it, and the spot is only known by the existence of a chowkie, or guard-house, built close to a banyan tree of great dimensions, and covering a large extent of ground. Numerous blue pigeons obtain shelter under its branches, and the country around being clothed with jungle, game of every description is abundant. The approach to Gunnour, where we halted, is extremely picturesque; a few huts on arising ground, overhung by some large and drooping trees, bounding one side of the prospect, the other being formed by a large and handsome caravan serai with its embattled wall and towers reflected on the surface of a beautifully clear tank. About 500 yards beyond the village we pitched our tents, and not far from a small pond at which the horses were watered.

The next morning we marched to Sumalka, a village of some size, and possessing the remains of a fine and extensive serai. This, however, is fast going to decay, but a small outlay on the part of Government would preserve it for some years, and at the same time show the natives (who almost ex clusively use these buildings) that their comfort and welfare are not always set aside or forgotten by those who rule over them. January 24. — At half-past four a.m., we com menced our march, and after (at the third mile) passing a small collection of huts, thence, till within a short distance of Paniput, nothing was to be seen on either side of the wood, but an uninterrupted jungle. A magnificent view of the snowy Himalayahs before sunrise, in some measure compensated for the loss of the beauties of nature nearer to us : but the glimpse was only transient, as a few minutes after the sun appeared the prospect became fainter and fainter, b3 until at length the haze obscured it entirely.

As we approached Paniput the whole of the sur rounding country was converted into one mass of cultivation, here and there broken by small clumps of trees, through which are to be seen the spires and cupolas of numerous temples, with their white and polished surfaces, starting from the dark foliage in which they are embedded with an almost dazzling brilliancy. The town is built on a slight eminence some miles in circuit, most of the houses being con structed of brick, and a few raised to the height of two stories with balconies and ornamented cupolas to the windows. One or two large ca ravanserais in tolerably good repair are at either side of the city, which is still considered of such importance as to require that a magistrate should reside here. In its environs are numerous tombs of considerable size, but very dilapidated, which point out where the ashes of the nobles in days by-gone have been deposited, as well as where the slain of numerous battles have found a resting place from all their worldly troubles ; for Pani put, from its proximity to Delhi, has been the scene of many a deadly contest, and beneath its walls the fate of the capital of Hindoostan has, even to later years, generally been decided.

It was here that the famous Baber, a descen dant of the equally celebrated Timour, gained, in 1525, a complete victory over Ibrahim II. , by which the latter lost his life and kingdom. The Imperial army under Ibrahim is said to have con sisted of 100,000 horse and 1,000 elephants ; that of Baber's, of only 13,000 men. The bold Tar tar, however, was not disconcerted at the vast numbers opposed to him ; but trusting to the hardy valour of his followers, whom he had so often led to victory, he awaited the battle with composure and confidence ; first taking the pre caution to link his artillery together to prevent his antagonist's cavalry separating his guns, and then dividing his army into two lines and a re serve, the whole of which he commanded in person. Ibrahim, ignorant of the art of war, drew up his forces in one irregular column, and ordered them at once to charge the Moguls, thinking that he would bear down all opposition by his numbers.

But vain was the hope ! for Baber, perceiving his folly, ordered the reserve to wheel round in two bodies and attack the enemy on either flank, which was done in such gallant style that the Patans were forced to retire. Ibrahim, though unskilled in military tactics, was not deficient in courage ; and having observed the ill success of his previous manœuvre, boldly advanced in person, surrounded by the flower of his nobility, and so desperate was the charge, that the Moguls recoiled from it ; but recovering themselves and fighting with des peration, they slew the Emperor and 5,000 of his followers. The fall of Ibrahim decided the for tune of the day. His army, or rather the rem nants of it, took to flight, and were hotly pursued by Baber as far as the river Jumna; and it is computed by the most moderate historians that no less than 16,000 Patans fell in this action, which transferred the empire of India from the Affghan tribe of Lodi to the house of Timour.

Numerous other actions of consequence occurred here after this, but the last battle of Paniput was fought in 1760, between the Affghans under Ahmed Abdalla, the founder of the Dourranie empire, and the Mahrattas, commanded by Sewdasheo Rao, the Bhow. The sceptre of Hindoos tan was at this time feebly swayed by Ali Gohur, eldest son of Alumgire II., and the throne of the Mogul was the prize that would be awarded to the victor. The Mahrattas having been in two previous engagements thoroughly worsted by their adversaries, were in no hurry to come to an open combat, although they exceeded their enemies three times in number ; they therefore formed an entrenched camp at Paniput, and awaited the onset of the Affghans, who for some days merely hovered around their position and cut off their supplies.

Abdallah, at last, weary of such dilatory work, made a resolute assault upon their defences, but after fighting valiantly for some time, was forced to retire without gaining any important advantage. This encouraged the Mahrattas, who, being still despoiled of their supplies, resolved once more to try their fate in an open field of battle ; Abdallah but wanted this. He immediately drew up his forces, and waited with a stern tranquillity the impetuous attack of his foes, who, in their usual manner, advanced with great rapi dity, shouting their terrific war-cry and blackening FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. the plain with their multitudes. When they came within a short distance of his line, Abdallah gave orders for the cavalry to charge, which they did so effectually that the light horse of his antagonist were forced off the field, and a general rout immediately ensued. 22,000 prisoners, 56,000 horses, and an immense booty were taken by the victorious Affghans, and Abdadah advanced to and entered Delhi ; but nobly contenting himself with his acknowledged superiority, he left Ali Gohur in possession of his kingdom, and returned to Cabul.

We left Paniput on the 25th, and soon found that the rich cultivation only extended its influence in the immediate neighbourhood of the city ; for as we advanced, jungle claimed the tracts on either side of the road for its own. We reached Garondah at eight o'clock, where our camp was pitched in a very pretty grove of date-trees and not far from the village, which though merely a collection of mud huts, can boast of possessing in its environs an extremely hand some caravanserai. A lofty gateway, flanked on either side by very peculiarly constructed towers surmounted with cupolas, points out its entrance, its area being enclosed by a high embattled wall with bastions at its angles. The whole, though built of a reddish freestone, is considerably di lapidated, but the bastions more so than any other part, and their remains testify that in former days they had been adorned with open circular galleries covered in by domes.

A high mound stretches out in front of the caravanserai, from whence a good view of the country is to be had ; but beyond a few clumps of trees, interspersed amongst the dense jungle, there is nothing to break the mo notony of the scene. 26th January. — We reached Kurnal this morn ing after a march of about twelve miles over a very excellent road, though it became swampy as we neared the city. At the eighth mile we crossed Feroze Shah's Canal by a good bridge overhung by a few handsome peepul trees. The glimpse I got of the town of Kurnal as we wound beneath its "walls rather disappointed me ; for, except one handsome mosque, I did not see another building to attract my curiosity ; nor do the cantonments appear much more prepossessing, as the bungalows are inferior to those at many other stations, and FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. the compounds are bare, and in most instances guiltless of having anything approaching to the semblance of a flower-garden.