Turkey in Europe ... With two maps

Preface

. It was asserted, I believe by Sydney Smith, that " no man in England must presume to express an opinion of bis own upon any subject unless he has an income of at least £3,600 a year. If that sum is required for tbe right of independent expression of opinion, what would be the necessary income for acquiring the right of producing a book? That interesting arithmetical problem may safely be confided to the care of the Civil Service Commissioners ; but while it remains unsolved I seize the opportunity to place upon paper my experiences of Turkey in Europe, in the hope that in these days when so much interest is felt in that unhappy country any personal knowledge of the land and people may have some attractions and be of some service. Travelling is but a selfish gratification if tbe knowledge acquired by it is confined to the traveller, and it seems to me to be a duty which he owes to the public to reflect to the best of his ability his experience of the countries and peoples he has visited. As a passport to my reader for presuming to write ex cathedra, I may state that I have travelled

PREFACE.

. IV on horseback for over a thousand miles through Turkey in Europe, besides many hundreds of miles along the coast in boat and steamer, and I have resided in the country off and on for three years. In other respects I have been so circumstanced as to be brought into contact with officials, both foreign and native, of all grades, which has necessarily afforded me the opportunity of acquiring much valuable in formation. The short acquaintance I had with Constantinople during the Crimean War enables me to compare the general aspect of that beautiful city then and now; but it has been asserted that Paris is not France, and with still greater force may it be said that Constan tinople is not Turkey, for a residence in the latter capital without visiting the interior would create a very erroneous impression of the people.

It is a country where it is extremely difficult to obtain accurate information in consequence of the either pro or anti-Turkish proclivities of the informants. I remember, for example, upon one occasion asking a resident of many years' standing — a very clever man, but a Philottoman — his opinion of the integrity of a certain pasha, who held a very important government post, and I received in answer such a glowing description of the virtuesof the old Turk that I instinctively raised my eyes to his shoulders in search of the budding of angelic wings, but on turning to another resident of equally long standing, but a Turcophobist, and putting the same question, I

PREFACE.

. V received a reply which made me turn my inspection to the pasha's slippers in search of the cloven foot. The truth lay probably midway between these extreme opinions — that is to say, that the pasha had been known to do many just and praiseworthy acts, but that he, at the same time, acknowledged the efficacy of backshish. It is this mixture of poison with the pure fluid which produces — according as either one or the other has been most tasted — the divergence of opinion so common to the country. It was a doctrine of Confucius that " True virtue consists in avoiding extremes ; " and in the following pages I shall do my utmost to profit by this instruction, in order that the Turk may be weighed fairly in the balance. A very few years ago, the general public knew as little of the interior of Turkey and of its affairs as of Timbuctoo ; but the events of the last few years have created a special interest in the country, which has happily made its subjects better known to the world, and the greater the true knowledge in that direction the better it will be for the Turk.

Such broad and sweeping condemnation is made of the whole nation by those who only gain their information second-hand, and the character of the Turkish people is so mixed up by them with that of Turkish officials, that to any impartial man who is well acquainted with the country the injustice is frequently so glaring, that it rouses his indigna-

PREFACE.

. VI tion at the absence which is exhibited of common justice and fair play, qualities of which Englishmen are especially and justly proud. Even the Turkish Government is so frequently denied any credit for what it has done, and is so often blamed for that which it has not done, that those who in their hearts condemn it are, for the sake of fair play, ranged on the side of its defence. It is impossible for any person, and especially one who is resident in the country, to close his eyes to the shortcomings of the Turkish Government, but so much the more should all Turkish subjects be pitied; and when humanity is concerned I cannot understand why any distinction should be made between the Turkish and Christian peasant, except it be from sectarian idiosyncrasies, which are so uncharitable that they become unchristian.

There are other countries where the government officials are quite as venal as those of Turkey, and yet those countries advance in progress and civilisation. Eussia stands out pre-eminent in that respect ; but in Turkey, to venality there is added an apathy in ad ministration which is fatal to progress. Her sins of omission are even greater than those of commission. It is useless to make more laws : those which now exist are admirable, as well as the organisation of the machinery of government; but what is wanted is an honest and active administration. In judging of Turkey, we must remember that there is a foreign Power always ready and anxious, not only

PREFACE.

. VII to misrepresent her, but to place every possible impedi ment in the way of her progress. It is useless to shut our eyes to this fact : it is patent to any one who lives in Turkey, and to any one who chooses to study the history of that country for the last fifty years. In the following pages I lay before the reader my experience of Turkey and her people as I actually found them. I trust that the account which I give, imperfect though it is, may yet help to dispel many of the clouds of misconception which envelop that unfortunate and well-abused country. April, 1877. PAGE '27 CONTENTS.

Chapter I. The Voyage Out

From Liverpool to Constantinople — My Fellow-passengers — A Strange Hobby — First View of Troy — The Golden Horn — I am seized upon by Far Away Moses — Capabilities of the Turkish Porters — Comparative Merits of the Pera and Therapia Hotels — Trips on the Bosphorus — "Fire" — Variety of Nationalities — An Ethnological Pill — Race and Religion ............ 1

Chapter II. The Bulgarians

The Bulgarians — Their Finnic Origin — First Emigration into Thrace — Marked Difference between the Inhabitants North and South of the Balkan — Introduction of Christianity — Foundation of the Bulgarian National Church — Reign of King Simeon — War between Greeks and Bulgarians — -Horrible Cruelties practised on either side — Strong National Feeling existing among the Latter — Persecution of the Bulgarian by the Greek Church — National Schools — District of Phillippopolis — Compulsory School-rate — Protestant Mission School at Samakov — American College on the Bosphorus — Sect of the Paulicians — Bulgarian Newspapers — Monastery of Rilo — Revival of the Bulgarian National Church — Spiritual Circular from the Synod — Ecclesiastical Disputes between Greeks and Bulgarians— Fomented by Russia — Cretan Insurrection — Lord Strangford — So-called Rebellion of 1867-68 — Manufacture of that of 1876 — Administration of Justice . . . .21

Chapter III. The Bosphorus And Black Sea

Turkish Red-tapeism — My Struggles for a Passport — To Burgas by Steamer — Undercurrents of the Bosphorus — Possible Connection between it and the Caspian — The Great Flood — Bay and Town of Burgas CONTENTS. X

Chapter IV. Ottoman-greek Subjects

P4GR Ottoman-Greek Subjects — Their First Entrance into the Country— Emigration of Ancient Greeks— The Greek and Russian Churches — Pan Hellenism — Town of Sisopolis — Greeks on the Black Sea Coast— Their Primitive Customs— Bitter Feeling against the Turk — Massacre at Niausta — Greek Brigandage 81

Chapter V

" EN VOYAGE." An English Vice-Consul— Torture ! — Scenery of the Black Sea Coast — Djeverli — The Bulgarian Peasants — Interior of their Houses — Their Habits and Customs — Bulgarian Dances — Bagpipes — A Funeral — A Dinner-party — The Pole Listopat — " Good dog, good dog ! "—A Circassian Village — Russian Philanthropy in Circassia— A Skirmish — The Knight of the Tea-pot 95

Chapter VI. From Burgas To Yanboli

District of Burgas — Malaria Fevers — " Breakers ahead " — Jackals in Europe — "Yarin " and Procrastination — Monastery of St. Athanasius — Mineral Springs — John in a Dilemma — Value of Land — A Circassian Horse-dealer — Yanboli — Ancient Tumuli — Migration of Storks — Scandal in Stork-land — Pleasures of a Turkish Khan — Sheep and Cows of the District 120

Chapter VII. The Turks

Their Origin — Western Emigration — Various Tribes — Their Slavery — Their Nomad Life — Wise Counsel — Their Religion — Persian Rivals — Tura and Arya— Babel — The Golden Age — Mahmoud the Ghaznivide— The Race of Seljuk — A Quiver of Sultans — Togrul Beg — Alp Arslan— The Roum Dynasty— Turkish Cavalry— The Crusaders— The Tartars under Genghis Khan— The Seljukian Turks— Soliman Shah — Ertoghrul and His Choice — His son Othman — Sultan Orchan allies himself with Cantacuzenus — Death of Soliman and succession of Amurath — Origin of the Janizaries— Timonr and Sultan Bajazid — Battle of Angora Ambition of Timour ....... ioq CONTENTS. XI PAGE 154 220 257

Chapter VIII. Turkish Government

Turkish Government — Various Races under its Sway — Character of the Turkish Soldier— Feudal Tenure— Pillars of the State—" Sublime Porte " — Pachas and Beys — Division of Private Property — Civil Administration — Judicial Courts — Monasteries on Mount Athos — Pilgrims — Expounders of the Law, Civil and Religions — Mohammed II. — Educational Institutions .........

Chapter IX. The Fall Of The Byzantine Empire

Siege of Constantinople — Constantine Palæologus and Mahomet II. — Death of the Greek Emperor — A Monster Cannon — Fall of the Byzantine Empire 178

Chapter X. Modern Turkish History

Effect of the Introduction of Artillery on the Numerical Strength of Armies — Turkish Anarchy — The Divan — Abdul Medjid — Treaty of Paris — Turkish Loan — Insurrection in Servia — Historical Evidence of Russian Intrigue — Difficulties of Reform 190

Chapter XI. En Route Again

Turkish Cavalry — The Chatal Dagh — Slivmia — Cloth Factories — Turkish Justice — A Turkish Form of Friendship — Geology of the Balkan — Land of the Bulgarian Atrocities — A Turk in Adversity — A Hurricane — Yeni Zaghra — Turkish Officials — Eski Zaghra — Anarchy in Turkey — Silk Factory — A Bedridden Interpreter — Kezanlik — Attar of Rose

Chapter XII. Across The Balkan

Freedom of a Morning Ride — Mounted Police— A Turkish Castle — Physical Aspect of Turkey — Central Watershed — Climate — Destruction of Forests Geological Formation — Coal and Minerals — Roman Roads — Lovtcha — Good Quarters — Tirnova — An Energetic Governor — A Turkish Resident Landed Proprietor — Hawking — A Turkish Dinner — A Lonely Ride CONTEXTS. XII

Chapter XIII. Ottoman Slavs

PAGE Ancient Slavs— Their Religion — Their Conversion to Christianity — Battlo of Kossova — Assassination — Kara George — His Character — Rebellious Janizaries — Intrigue — Milosch — Russian Poison — Despotism and Misery — A Reign of Intrigue — Peace and Contentment under Alexander — More Intrigue and Rebellion — Death of Prince Michael . . . 274

Chapter XIV

turkey's army and navy. Turkish Military Organisation — Turkish Army — Its Composition — Military Education — Nizam — Ichtiat, Redifs — Cavalry and Artillery Reserves — Material of War — Pay of Officers — Turkish Navy — Ironclads — Naval Education — Hobart Pasha ......... 295

Chapter XV. Turkey

as a military power. Ancient Organisation of the Turkish Army — Strategical Bases of the Russian and Turkish Armies — Turkish Fortresses — Passes of the Balkan — Roads of Communication — Plan of Defence for Turkey — Blockade of Russian Ports 319

Chapter XVI

from troyan to samakov. Brigands — A Doctor Shot — Turkish Hospitality — A Mountain Pass — Slatitza — The Disease of Procrastination — "Cut-em-ups" — The Trials of Interpretation — A Long Bide — The Great Watershed — The Meeting of the Mountains — Plains of Sofia — The Railway — The Rilo Dagh — Samakov — The American Mission — Iron — Lovely Scenery — Alarms — A Shake-Down— The Monastery of Rilo — Deer-Stalking — An Accident . 341

Chapter XVII. The Albanians

Their Origin — Gheghas and Toskers— Illy rians and Macedonian Phalanx Scanderbeg — Distribution of Albanian Tribes — Their Religions Viss- Blood Fends— Itinerant Trade — Rascians— Toskers — Albanians as Soldiers — The Pasha of Scodra gg3 CONTENTS. XIII PAGE

Chapter XVIII. From Rilo To Salonica

Monks of Rilo Monastir— The Call to Prayers— The Abbot— A " Monk Scratcher" — Monastery Farms — A Bulgarian Doctor — The River Strymon — Perim Dagh — The Ancient Agrianes — A Contre-temps — Pheasant Shooting — Plains of Seras— Heavy Traffic — Wrestling Match — A Gipsy Champion — Gipsy Immigration to Europe — Stopped by a Turkish Guard — Lake Besit, or Ancient Bolbe — Reported Ruins — Roman Roads . 378

Chapter XIX. The Macedonian Plains

The Marsh of Borboros — Pella — Salonica — Hot Springs — Therma in the Time of Xerxes — Lions — The Last King of Macedon — Mineral Wealth of Macedonia — The Via Egnatia — St. Paul's Pulpit — Massacre by Theodosius — Literary Celebrities of Salonica — Remains of Antiquity — Arch of Constantine — Heathen Temples and Mahommedan Mosques — Population — Midhat Pacha — Railways — Facilities for Making Canals — Ei.terprising Greeks — Jews — Their Entry into Turkey — Funeral of a Chief Rabbi 395

Chapter XX

A SECOND VISIT TO TURKEY. Rapid Change of Seasons — American 'Philanthropy — A Remarkable Boy — Winter Climate of Salonica — Verria — The Wallachians — Ferocious Dogs — Preparations for a Deer Drive — A Good Bag — A Well-ventilated Khan — Hints to Travellers — Turkish Signs — Exaggeration — Manufacturing a Grievance— The Cry of " Wolf ." 416

Chapter XXI. Taxation, Etc

What is a Piastre ? — The Ashr or Tithe — Htizam and Wokalut — Mode of assessing Tithe — Cause of Oppression in collecting Taxes— Proposed Reform — Mode of Valuing Land — The Verghi — The Bedel of Haratch — The Sayme or Sheep-tax — Customs-duties— Turkish Bonds — Suggestion to Bondholders . CONTENTS. XIV PACK

Chapter XXII. Agriculture

Divisions of Landed Property — Vacouf — Mulk and Gedik — Miri— Village Lands — Title to Land in Turkey — Mode of Transfer — Chifliks — Tenants and Labourers — Impediments to good Cultivation — Value of Labour — Careless Cultivation .......... 453

Chapter XXIII. Turkey As

A FIELD FOR EMIGRATION. Laws which Regulate Farming — Causes of Success in Emigration — Causes of Failure in Turkey — Sheep Farming — Capital Required for Starting a Farm — Sport — Value of Land — Wages — Caution necessary in Choosing a Farm 475

Chapter XXIV. The Crimean Tatars

Tatars of Dobrutchga. — Their Faith — Difficulties of Government in Turkey — Efforts at Reform Frustrated by Repeated Rebellions — The Sunnites and Shiites — Massacre of the Shiites — Progress of Mahommedanism amongst British Subjects — Popular Ignorance as to the Mahommedan Faith— Moral Qualities of the Osmanli — " Young Turkey " — Prophecy of Turkish Corruption — Farewell ....... 48C

Appendix

A. ROBERT COLLEGE, CONSTANTINOPLE 497

APPENDIX.

B. BULGARIAN CHUECH . . ... "-(M