Explorations in South-West Africa. Being an account of a journey in ... 1861 and 1862 from Walvisch Bay, on the western coast, to Lake Ngami and the Victoria Falls

Front matter

SOUTH-WEST AFRICA. LONDON PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND 00. NEW-STEEET SQUARE Hanha.l I.It REGIMENT OF FLAMINGOES - SWAKOP RIVER London l.'-»n^T__n X '" EXPLORATIONS IX SOUTH-WEST AFRICA BEING AN ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY IN THE YEARS 1861 AND 1862 FROM WALVISCH BAY, ON THE WESTERN COAST TO LAKE NGAMI AND THE VICTORIA FALLS. BY THOMAS BALNES, F.B.G.S. FOnMEELY ATTACHED TO THE NORTH AUSTRALIAN EXPEDTnON, AND SUBSEQUENTLY TO THAT OF Dis. LIVINGSTONE ON TOE ZAMBESI. LONDON: LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, ROBERTS, & GREEN. 1864.

Preface

. This work was written by my Son during a journey from Walvisch Bay, on the west coast of Africa, to the Victoria Falls of the Zambesi Biver, in company with Mr. J. Chapman, a former friend of the author's, who had spent many years in travelling and was well acquainted with the country and the language of the natives. In 1858 Mr. Baines was appointed artist to the Zambesi expedition under Dr. Livingstone, and accompanied his party to Tete, the principal town in the Portuguese territory, on the eastern coast of Africa ; but leaving that ex pedition in 1861, he returned to Cape Town. On recovering from a severe illness, which was attended with fever and loss of sight for several weeks, he resolved to explore the interior himself, and if possible to cross the continent from the west coast to the Zambesi on the east.

For this purpose he built two copper boats, so constructed as to be used singly, or, when the river admitted, side by side, Avith a platform on which he could form a house or VI

PREFACE.

. cabin; this he accomphshed with his own hands, Avith the exception of a smith for a few hours' Avork. Having provided hiinself with the requisites for such an undertaking, he left Table Bay, March 21, 1861, and arriving on the 29th of that month at Walvisch Bay, there began his overland journey. The journal was written under many difficulties, till they arrived at the Victoria Falls, when fever, famine, and the murder of many of their attendants obliged them to return at a time when they had hoped in a feAV weeks to begin their \-oyage doAA-n the Zambesi. The absence of the author in Africa, Avhile this volume was passing through the press, must be pleaded in excuse for the alteration in the paging of the latter portion of the work. The last chapter was already in type, Avheri some MS. sheets were discovered which supphed the narrative of events for the weeks intervening betAveen the sirst attack of illness and the final resolution to abandon the design of descending the Zambesi, and to return by land to Walvisch Bay. It was found necessary to insert this narrative, which now forms Chapter XV. M. A. BALNES. r-AGE 12 67 CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Departure From Cape Town Pelican Point Curious Action Of Wind

ON LOOSE SAND THE FLAMINGO NAMAQUA HOT- TENTOTS — SAND FONTEIN — SHARKS — COW-FISH AND THEIR PREY 1

Chapter II. Start For Objimbingue

— THE DUPA RIVER MISSION STATION AT HYKOM KOP THE VALLEY OF THE SWA-KOP — THE ROODE- BERG RAVINES OF THE TINCAS RIVER ROCKS AT ONANIS ARRIVAL AT OTJIMBINGUE RETURN JOURNEY ARRIVAL AT WALVISCH BAY THE JUNCTION OF THE OOSOP AND THE SWA- KOP JOURNEY TO OTJIMBINGUE . . . . .21

Chapter III

A HOTTENTOT CHIEF — DRESS OF THE DAMARAS — HABITS OF THE HOTTENTOTS GREAT BARMEN — HOT SPRINGS JUNCTION OF THE BAEMEN EIVEE WITH THE SWA-KOP THE AWASSBEEG — ■ TRADING AMONG THE HOTTENTOTS — APICa's KRAAL UN- TRAINED OXEN THE VALLEY OF THE WINDnOCK

Chapter IV

TnE QUIEP, OE ELEPHANT EFVER THE TWIN TURRETS — KOT- ZEBUE, THE DAMARA LIBERTY AND EQUALITY THE KLEINE BAKJIE HILL THE NOOSOP HILLS — NAMAQUA GIRLS THE MISSION STATION AT GOBABIES— BUSHMEN, AND THEIR nABITS INOCULATION OF CATTLE FOR LUNG SICKNESS — ITS EFFECTS CONTEXTS. VIII PAGE 157

Chapter V. Elephant Kloof Want Of Water

— CONSEQUENT SUFFERINGS OF THE CATTLE AFFRAY WITH BUSHMEN TRIAL AND • PUNISHMENT OF THE AGGRESSORS — ELANDS GIRAFFE PIT THE OTCHOMBINDE, OR THORN RIVER PROFESSOR WAHL- BERG CURIOUS SCENE AT A DRINKING-rOOL LIMESTONE PLAINS 101

Chapter VI. Discontent Among The

DAMARAS— KNAVEEY OF GEET — CHASE FOR STOLEN HOESES GEOLOGICAL FOEMATION AT GHANZE — VARIETIES OF THORN-BUSHES DAMAEA NECKLACES — FUE- THER SEARCH AFTER GEET THE MAEKWHAE, A SUCCULENT ROOT WOLF FOUNTAIN AEEIVAL AT KOBIS PREPARATIONS FOE A LENGTHENED SOJOUEN . . . . • .133

Chapter VII. Continued Sickness Among The Cattle

— ILLNESS OF SOME DAMARAS — OCCUPATIONS IN THE BUSH— DAMAEA COSTUME THE BUSHMEN'S TOISON — CHAMELEONS — BRINDLED GNOOS LEOPARDS INTELLECT OF BUSHMEN DISCIPLINE OF BE- CHUANA WOMEN — THE CHIEF LESHULATEBE — BAOBAB TREES FUETHEE TIDINGS OF GERT AND THE HOESES — KOBIS

Chapter VIII. Renewed Search For Gert And

TnE HORSES THE LAMB- CATCHER, OR GOLDEN EAGLE ORIGIN OF LOCAL NAMES — KOBIS — THE BUSHMEN CHEATED BY THE DAMARAS A SMOKING MATCH AN ELEPHANT WOUNDED THE ZAMBESI RIVER IVORY TRADERS TUFTED OWLS THE VIVEIRA, A KIND OF CIVET CAT ANECDOTE OF PROFESSOR WAHLBERG PREPARA- TIONS FOR A TREK A LEMUR^EFFECTS OF SUNLIGHT ON CLOUDS l'Jl CONTEXTS. IX PAGE

Chapter IX. Inspanning Snyman And The Chief Leshulatebe

— THE MOTJEEEIE TEEE A METEOE — DUTCH OXEN-DEIVEES THE KOPJIES CHANGE OF SCENEEY INSECT-EATING JACKALS A FIEE IN THE ENCAMPMENT FEUD BETWEEN SEKELETU AND LESHULATEBE — QUARANTINE VLEI — THE OOMAHAMA TREE — THE IRON TREE ANTIDOTE TO THE BUSHMEN'S POISON THE KAA GRUB LITTLE NGAMI THE MOWANA TEEE THE LOW LAND OF NGAMI ..... 22G

Chapter X

EARTn-SNAKES UECHUANA THIEVES EFFECTS OF HEAT ON PHOTOGRAPHIC MATERIALS VISIT TO LESHULATEBE — BAR- TERING ADROIT ROBBERIES EXTORTIONATENESS OF THE BECHUANAS CHRISTMAS DAY PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY INTO THE FAR INTERIOR 272

Chapter XI. Letters From Henry Chapman

— ARRIVAL AT MOSELINYAN TIDINGS OF GERT — MAMU-KA-HOORIE RAIN-VLEIS — MAHA- LAAPIE THE WELLS AT KOOBIE MORE LAST WATERS A NIGHT IN THE BUSH AFTER AN ELEPHANT HUNT — THE DEAD ELEPHANT BUTTERFLIES AT A FEAST — DEATH OF DR. HOLDEN DEALINGS WITH NATIVE TRIBES REMEDIES FOR HORSE AND CATTLE SICKNESS — UNION-VLEI A METEOR — TRIP TO THE NORTH-WEST — ELEPHANT HUNT DENTITION OF THE ELEPHANT . 291

CHAPTER XII. UNDULATING COUNTRY UNCERTAINTY OF FINDING WATER DISAPPEAEANCE OF BUSHMEN STEENGTH

AND CAUTIOUSNESS OF ELEPHANTS AN EVENING SCENE VULTUEES FEASTING ON DEAD ELEPHANTS— FIRST SIGHT OF A GIEAFFE — UNDU- LATING GEASS LAND — THE ONJUEA, OE TREE-SQUIRREL X CONTENTS. PAGE DIFFICULTY OF PRESERVING BIRD-SKINS — A NIGHT ATTACK OF ELEPHANTS — A NARROW ESCAPE COOKERY OF THE BUSHMEN — THE TOUCAN — GEMSBOKS — WANDERINGS OV ELE PHANTS IN SEARCH OF WATER 328

Chapter XIII. Deep Vlei Cerastes, Or Horned Snake The River Vul- Ture

— OSTRICHES SERINGA BUSHES — NOISELESS TREAD OF ELEPHANTS— DAMARA DANCES FINAL PREPARATIONS FOR A START — SKIN OF THE GIRAFFE — NEW YEAR VLEI DIFFI- CULTY OF PRESERVING ELEPHANTS' SKULLS FROM DAMARAS A PUFF-ADDER THE WHITE RHINOCEROS VARIOUS SPECIES OF VULTURE DAMARA INDOLENCE THE KALIHARI DESERT LUBELO HILL THE NQUIBA MOUNTAINS THE BLACK FINCH — MAKOLOLO FORAYS — A SIGHT OF LAKE NGAMI— NATIVE NAMES THE BOTLETLE RIVER — RAVAGES OF ELE- PHANTS in leshulXtebe's VILLAGE ..... 373

Chapter XIV. Difficulty Of Making Observations

A CONFERENCE WITH LESHULATEBE — CRIMES OF SEKELETU AGAINST THE MISSION PABTY LESHULATEBE'S BARGAINS HIS ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE GRASS ON FIRE A SAIL ON THE EIVEE EIVER SCENERY A TRADING EXPEDITION A BECHUANA A'lLLAGE THE SOLITAEY PALM LOCAL NAMES A CONJUEOR THE PEETRO, OR COUNCIL OF WAR THE TIGER REGI MENT LESHULATEBE' S ARMY THE CHIEFTAIN MAKHOLOQUE — A MAKOBA WIZARD — HORSE-DEALING — RUMOURS OF THE DEATH OF SEKELETU — A BROWN EAGLE — AN ATTACK OF FEVER . .413

Chapter XV. The Tamalukan Eiver The Makobas

— THE ZAMBESI AND ITS TRIBUTARIES — MAKOBA TREACHERY FEA*EE — THE EUPHOEBIA AND THE POISON GRUB THE TEEE WITH LEGS KAMMA- KAMMA MUD PANS SAND PLAINS AND THE MIRAGE CONTENTS. XI PAGE SECKOMO AND HIS SON ODEAQUE — PAKHOPATE — MATLOMO GANYANI — OEEUFA DAKA OR GUAKA THE TABLE-LANDS OF THE ZAMBESI THE APPROACH TO THE FALLS . . [390]

Chapter XVI. Sable Antelopes Hottentot Boastfulness Eoads To The Zambesi Falls

— CHOICE OF THE WESTEENMOST EOAD — THE TSETSE COUNTRY — RAPID DIMINUTION OF GAME — HUNGER- BELTS OF THE KAFIRS THE TSETSE-POISON THE MATETSIE RIVER — A QUAGGA SHOT — THE EIVER BOLUNGO — A DISSEL- BOOM BEOKEN ANECDOTES OF LION HUNTING A CHANGE OF COUESE — SECHELl's AMBASSADOR — SEKELETU's DEFENCE EXPLOITS OF WILDEBEESTE . . . . . 458

Chapter XVII

appeoach to the victoeia falls — distant sound of the cataract — the first view of the falls a black ehinoceeos the 80utheen face of the falls — its double eainbow buffalo hunt negotiations with moshotlani sekeletu and the missionaries — the geeat chasm or theee-eill cliff exoebitant peices of food dealings with moshotlani and madzekazi a fall into a game-pit the easteen side of the cataracts — changes produced by the falls in the character of the sceneey de. Livingstone's garden — shooting and descending the rapids extreme bkeadth of the falls close of the expedition ......... MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. MAPS. PAGE Sketch Map of South Africa, showing the Regions explored by Mr. Baines . . . .to face 1 Route Map: Walvisch Bay to Thounce . . „ 35 Route Map : Thounce to Victoria Falls — Zambesi River „ 224 CHROMO-LITHOGRAPH.

Regiment of Flamingoes — Swa-kop River . frontispiece WOOD ENGRAVINGS, FROM ORIGINAL SKETCHES. (Engraved by G. Pearson.) Namaqua Hunters, Walvisch Bay . . . .10 Griqua Hunter and Griqua Women . . .11 Pomp and Vanity . . . . . .41 Kynomobia, or Mrs. Kanoa, Dikkop's married daughter . 46 Hot and Tepid Springs at Great Barmen . . .51 Damara Woman carrying Water in a Native Jar, and holding Ostrich Egg-shell . . . .56 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XIV I' AGE Naniaqvta Hottentot Women begging . . to face 76 Melon Dance, Hottentot Girls . . . „ 88 Jem, a Portrait . . . . . .92 Bushmen, a Group .... to face 96 Damaras and Bushmen with a Dead Ox . . 97 Damaras ....... 104 Bechuana drinking ..... 123 Arrival at the Water Pit .... to face 128 Darnara Mother-tree in Seed, but Leafless . . . 181 Bechuana smoking Dakka ..... 204 Tufted Owl (Hiboa of Cuvier) . . . .213 An Attendant on a Chief ..... 231 Bechuana Ivory-carrier and Girl with Milk . . 279 A Chief bringing Ivory to sell . . . to face 282 Tree at Mamu-ka-Hoorie ..... 295 Group of Storks ..... to face 337 Storks in Sleepy Hollow . . . . .338 Storks feeding on Elephants' Flesh . . . to face 310 First Sight of a Giraffe . . . . .343 Bittern ....... 3-15 The enraged Mother (Elephant) .... 356 A Group of Three Ostriches .... 377 Tfred Elephant washing ..... 393 Finch . . . . . . .404 Native Doctor extracting Disease .... 438 A Woman of the Batasanas (a subdivision of the Bechuanas) standing for her Portrait .... 442 Makalaka, with the first Reef in his Hunger-belt. . . 467 Bird's-eye View of the Victoria Falls . . to face EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH-WEST AFRICA.

Chapter I. Departure From Cape Town Pelican Point Curious Action Of Wind

ON LOOSE SAND — THE FLAMINGO NAMAQUA HOTTENTOTS SAND FONTEIN SHARKS COW-FISH AND THEIR PREY. On Wednesday, March 20th, 1861, I had the satisfaction of embarking at Cape Toavii the materiel of my intended expedition on board a smart little brigantine of about 110 tons, called the ' Elizabeth Mary.' The greater number of my packages were of course sent below ; but the two boats, which, from inability to find a boat-builder to work in metal, or a smith to understand the requirements of the case, I had myself constructed of copper, were retained on deck, and securely lashed on each side under the waist bulwarks. On the following day, accompanied by Mr. Lo gier, I went down to the jetty, where, a stiff" south easter rendering it unsafe to trust to a dingy, Mr. Bates kindly lent us one of his large cargo-boats.

After about tAvo tacks, plentifully sprinkled Avith salt B [Makcii Avater, we reached the \-essel just as the anchor Avas being weighed. Having passed between the island and the main, we saw toAvards afternoon the old Table mountain looming grandly in the warm distance, when all the minor features had disappeared. We soon had a succession of variable winds, alternately with calms, accompanied by very dense fogs. After a week thus spent, Ave ran in towards the land. As Ave heard surf but could see nothing, we hove to toAvards evening, and ran on aerain in the night. On Friday the 29th (Good Friday) Ave were again becalmed, and so enveloped in fog that, though the roaring of the surf was unmistakable, not a vestige of land could we see till breakfast time, when Ave made out part of a long range of sand hills, Avith a number of indefinite objects, that most hkely Avere rocks exaggerated by the re fractive state of the atmosphere.

As the fog cleared away, the line of sand-hills lengthened out ; a solitary mountain was visible far inland to the north-east. About noon Ave made out the long low Sand Spit, called Pelican Point, which extends nortliAvards till it forms a sheltered basin, on Avhich the prevalent southerly winds can hardly raise a ripple that Avould endanger a boat. We passed its extremity in 22° 52' S. and 14° 22' E. Avith a freshening breeze. A sailing boat soon came off to us, and the head-man directed us to an anchorage, about a quarter of a mile north of Mr. Latham's house. Of course the captain was anxious to meet the principal consignee of his cargo, 18G1.] AN OUT-STATION ON THE COAST. 3 and I to fall in Avith my friend and future fellow traveller, Chapman, avIio had preceded me ; but we learned that the first named, after having been wrecked in the ' Canute,' near Ichaboe, and conveyed to Sandwich Harbour in the ' Eagle,' was at present some distance up the country, and that the latter had left for the interior about two months before.

The head-man, however, offered to send a Damara with a letter, which Avas accordingly Avritten and despatched. As no cargo could be landed, we contented ourselves with hoisting out the copper boats, and finding that from their unfinished condition they leaked considerably, we towed them ashore, and the fishermen carried them above high water mark for me. At night we caught a large quantity of eel fish, barbels, dog-fish, and small sharks. On the 30th, Captain Burstall and I Avent ashore, and found the house built upon a foundation of sand-bags, certainly not six feet above high Avater mark, and the fishermen's huts almost on a level Avith it ; the water, in fact, flowing nearly up to them. A large quantity of fish were drying on a framework of poles, and their huge heads were lying in heaps upon the beach.

Farther on was a cage or trap Avith falling door and baited hook, for the purpose of catching jackals ; but strong indeed must have been the scent that could compete, even under their discriminating noses, AA'ith the masses of decaying matter on the beach. Beyond Avas a broad flat, covered with cat, dog, B [March and other mud-frequenting fish, which, venturing too far with the last spring-tide, had been left at a distance from their element, and were now adding each his mite to the ' ancient and fish-like smell ' that pervades the whole place. Still farther inland was a quantity of small drift-wood, brought down long ago, I suppose, Avhen there Avas water in some of the channels between the sand-hills. At length, after having walked about three miles, we reached the commencement of the first range, and on ascend ing ten or twelve feet for a more extended view, found that the mirage, which had created an illusive sheet of water betAveen us and the house, had entirely disappeared.

The difficulty of representing this phenomenon in a painting is that, supposing the artist to succeed perfectly, he cannot convey to the beholder of the picture the absolute knoAvledge that it is not intended for water ; if there is Avind, the mirage ripples like a sunny lake, and the only test by Avhich to judge of it on the spot is, that it never rises into breakers, and that it exaggerates excessively the height of objects within its influence. I have seen in Table Bay the hulls of vessels rise up hke great castles nearly to their loAver yards, while all above was unaltered and natural; and the houses and rocks on Eobben Island, hardly visible under ordinary circumstances, shoot up like great spars to nearly the same height. Here the dense flocks of pelicans and flamingoes present an appearance that actually led the mate of the vessel to mistake them at sirst sight 1861.]

CURIOUS ACTION OF WIND ON LOOSE SAND. 5 for houses ; and considering that the last-named bird, Avith its white plumage and scarlet wings, stands about four feet in height, I do not Avonder at the current stories of their being mistaken for a column of in fantry Avith red jackets and Avhite caps and trowsers. The action of the Avind on these ever-shifting sands is also Avorthy of notice. The dry light sand is heaped up in a ridge by the first gust capable of scooping a hollow in the surface ; gradually it ad vances hke a wave of the sea with its steepest side to leeward, and the sand flying from its crest seems so hke the ocean spray, that the similarity is almost complete. Farther inland were some brown bushes, perching themselves upon the reddest sand-spots that they might appear more green by contrast.

The most noticeable things on our return was the track of a large water-barrel, in which, in fashion of a garden roller, the inhabitants draw their supphes from an indefinite distance. I hardly knoAV what can give a better idea of the utter destitution of this place than the fact that we have at present on board twenty-seven large barrels of water, at a cost in Cape ToAvn of 5s., and a freight thence of 30s. per ton. Of course the casks are required in the fishery, but the want of Avater is everywhere forced upon our notice. Even Captain, the agent's half-bred New foundland, SAvims regularly to the ship, puts his paws in the bight of a rope to be hauled up, and sniffs so pleadingly at the casks, that the hardest heart on board cannot refuse to fill a dipper for him. [April 6 EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH AFRICA.

At night Tom caught a couple of spotted sharks ; the male 4ft. 6 in. and the female 4ft. 2 in. in length, the latter nearly ready to produce eleven young ones, besides containing several ova in various stages of development. On Easter Day we remained on board, putting affairs a little in order. The fishermen brought a penguin, AA-hich fought the boys and dogs gallantly, and pecked with its hard sharp beak at any naked ankle or sea-boot most impartially. Seeing it rather roughly treated, I interceded for the poor creature, but was informed that nothing could by any possibility hurt it. By the 6th of April we had got all stores out, Mr. Dixon having come thirty-six miles to meet us. As I Avas a little imdecided tiU I heard from Chapman, I resolved to stay at Mr. Latham's, Avho, I was as sured, Avould be happy if I did so.

Dixon accordingly took charge of the A-arious packages intended for residents in the country, and having tied up all the letters in a bag comprehensively enough ad dressed ' To the white inhabitants of Damara-land,' spanned in his oxen and set forth on his dreary night-long journey through the sand-hills. The fishermen had been engaged during the 6th in ballasting the vessel, and, having finished their Avork, received payment, part in rum and part in coin, which last, however, soon found its Avay back in exchange for more of the first. A couple of sove reigns Avhich remained to me I invested in a dozen 1801.] ENCOUNTER AVITH AN OLD SERVANT. 7 of cheap shirts, and some tobacco, for small presents, to which Captain Burstall generously added a quantity of bread and some spirits ; and shortly after dinner I saAv the anchor lifted, the sails spread, and the ' Elizabeth Mary ' on her Avay to Bio.

Early in the morning of April 9th, Avhile Ave were still waiting for Mr. Latham, three Avagons were seen crossing the flats, and by breakfast time Mr. Dixon returned, accompanied by Mr. Langenhoorn, a fine old man, with hair slightly tinged with grey just thin ning on the top, and Avith a beard aud countenance which Bembrandt would have delighted to copy. He had come down on the part of Mr. Andersson, Avith two wagons to bring hides, and to wait for the arrival of our vessel — the neAvs not having reached Otjimbingue when he left. Of course he Avas glad to find his cargo ready for him ; and by the afternoon, the wagons being reloaded, he and Mr. Dixon again left me alone in my glory. The Dutch proverb says, 'Mountains cannot meet, but people may,' and this morning Dixon called my attention to a man engaged in spanning out the oxen, Avho proved to be John Human, the driver of one of M'Cabe's wagons when Ave were over Vaal Biver in 1850, and my after rider in my second trip from Mooi Biver to Bloem Fontein.

He had told Dixon of the care I took in teaching him to read, but said he had since forgotten it. He had, I believe, been more than once to Moselekatse's country. Chapman had picked him up someAvhere in the interior, and after wander- EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH AFRICA. sArRiL ing through several of the neighbouring tribes, he had at length found himself in the service of Mr. Andersson. The country between this and Otjim bingue, I understood was at present full of game, principally springbok and blawe wildebeeste. Tracks of giraffes and rhinoceroses had been seen, and in one place the spoor of as many as eighteen lions. Indeed, in some parts it was not safe to dismount from the wagon at night, and on one occasion a traveUer had encountered a number of these beasts sitting across his track, aAvaiting his approach, and by no means inclined to get out of his Avay.

As I accompanied the wagons a short distance from the house, I asked Iioav so many of the oxen had lost their tails, and Avas told it was the lung sickness — a curious effect of the disease, I thought ; but I was further informed that it was usual to in oculate healthy cattle by passing a needle and thread, previously steeped in the virus of the diseased lung, through the skin of their tails. This caused a painful swelling, Avhich, if the needle touched the bone in its passage, extended to the Avhole hind-quarters, and occasioned the loss of the tail, or perhaps of the animal. I Avas told that of the cattle not inoculated fifty per cent, died, and that the operation reduced the per-centage to tAventy-five. Hoav it reached this country is not known. On returning, I found a fine flamingo which the head fisherman had just killed and brought up.

This was the sirst time I had actually had the bird in hand, 1861.] DESCRIPTION OF A FLAMINGO. 9 and I could not but admire the delicate gradations of white and scarlet on the body and wings, con trasted with the jetty black of the quill feathers. The legs Avere of a delicate pink, and naked to within three inches of the body ; the feet were webbed, and the toes tipped with black nails resembling in form those of the human hand ; the head was large, the beak abruptly crooked, and covered from the eyes to the bend with a delicate flesh-coloured skin, forming a small pouch under the lower mandible — the tints of this, hoAvever, are unfortunately likely to be lost in drying. The tip of the beak Avas black, the eye small and bright yellow, with a black pupil. The extreme length, from tip of beak to middle toe, was four feet ten inches, the neck and beak being nearly two feet, and the legs, exclusive of the short thigh which is concealed in the body, tAvo feet two ; the Avings were rather small, their spread being five feet four.

I should think the bird, when living, would stand four feet high. At night I skinned the flamingo, and was surprised chiefly at the enormous size of its tongue, which filled the whole of the large lower man dible, and was provided with recurved papiflæ with soft points, so that they could hardly be of ser vice, hke the serrated beak, in securing the prey. The tongue contained a great quantity of fat, a thick layer of which was also spread over the whole body. Two days later, a number of Namaqua Hottentots passed on ox-back, carrying their guns, but doAvn wards, in a bag before the right knee, the muzzle [April 10 EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH AFRICA. projecting backwards beyond the arm, as described by Mr. Galton. They were bound to a place seven hours' journey to the north, where Dixon had in formed me a herd of buffaloes inhabited some reed patches.

The fishermen hauled the seine during the day, but caught only some small fish the shape and size of a herring, some sharks, sting-rays, cat and dog-fish, and several broad-finned flat-bellied sharks, called from their shape fiddle-fish. NAMAQUA HUNTERS, WALVISCH BAT. As yet Ave have seen very little of the natives of the country. The Namaqua Hottentots, before mentioned, came up at first to help in discharging cargo ; and it Avas amusing to see four of them labouring under a bag of flour, Avhile a similar one was steadily carried up by a single fisherman, or three of them kneeling in the sand to roll a tar- 1861.] NAMAQUA HOTTENTOTS. 11 barrel. They Avere dressed mostly in leather troAvsers, duffle jackets, and felt hats. Their native orna ments consist of long thongs of leather coiled hke ropes about their hips, with others forming fringes beloAV the knee.

The first lady of this tribe avc GRIQUA HUNTER AND GRIQUA -R-OMEN. were introduced to was dressed principally in a bundle of firewood, and the lashings necessary to bind it to her shoulders ! The Hottentots recognised draAvings of the elephant, rhinoceros, springbok, and blue wildebeeste, the last of which they named 'GaoAv.'* * Or, Ghaut— Et>. EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH AFRICA. [April In the afternoon of the 12th, I Avalked along the beach at the head of the bay, which is now being divided from the anchorage by a bar of sand, and in a few years will probably become a shallow lagoon. Taking a telescope Avith me, I had a better view of the flocks of flamingoes and pelicans feeding at the edges of the shoals. Part of the skeleton of a whale, covered with barnacles, and killed, probably, Avhen the bay Avas worthy of its name, bore evidence to the fact that the water had once been much deeper.

I beheve these creatures are seldom or never seen here iioav. On the 15th I set to Avork to find out hoAv to make cartridges for my gun, a Wilson's breech loader, but had to make several trials before I succeeded. The day after, I Avent out in hopes of shooting a flamingo, and had a few shots at from 500 to 700 yards, the balls generaUy striking a very smaU distance short of the flocks. We saw one flying with his leg broken, but could never get near him again, and another remained, apparently disabled, behind the flock ; but as Tom took off his shoes to go after him, he mustered strength to get away. I believe the fishermen kill them by lying on their belly in the Avet sand, and making the baU ricochet along the Avater ; but the birds are so shy that they have not killed another since they shot the specimen the head man gave me.

After walking about half-way round the head of 1861.] CAPTURE OF TWO LIVE GEMSBOKS. 13 the bay, we struck inland a little, and returned over large ridges of sand, hke the billoAvs of the ocean, Avalking easily up the inclined slope of the weather side, and launching, as rapidly as we could keep our legs going, down the lee, Avhich, as usual with sand, lies at an invariable angle of about 45°. During the day we had a smart brief shower, the first rain, as Joseph told me, that had fallen for two years. I began noAv to fear that I should be obliged to discontinue my Avork on the boat, as my paint oil was expended ; but the old steAvard, Joseph, brought out a bucket of tar for me, which timely assistance enabled me to continue my Avork. The plan I had adopted Avas to lay another piece upon the inside, fore and aft ribbed ; and having first tarred it well, to clinch it through aU Avith the longest nails I have, each of which has to be beaten out to nearly an inch beyond its original length before I can use it.

To show through how minute an aperture Avater will find its way, I may mention that Avhere the box for containing the lower part of the mast is screwed to the end of its section, the screAvs are rusted, and the Avood blackened. A Damara brought in a fine pair of gemsboks* living, but they Avere rather spoiled by having been scraped at the points. I bought them for a cotton * The g here is pronounced hard, or rather with a guttural sound. It will be near enough if you pronounce it as in the English word gun, and not as in gem or Jem. [April 14 EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH AFRICA. handkerchief. The name of this animal, as nearly as I can express it in Avriting, is Kaiip ; it begins, I think, Avith the dental click. In the afternoon of Sunday the 21st I walked along the Avagon-track, over the flats, for nearly a couple of miles, and then among the sand-hills for almost as much more to Sand Fontein, a httle on the left hand of the road.