Rough Leaves from a Journal kept in Spain and Portugal, during the years 1832, 1833, & 1834

Chapter I

The Author's visit to Portugal. — Its object. — Character of the Inhabitants. — Their feeling towards the English. — Sail for the Tagus in H. M. S. Britannia. — Quarantine. — Don Miguel and his Yacht. — The Lazaretto. — Orders to proceed to the frontiers of Spain. — State of Lisbon. — My journey. — The Fortress of Elvas. — The Town. — Object of my journey. — Ride to Badajos. — Peremptory conduct of the Governor. — Return to Elvas, — and subsequently to Lisbon. — The British Church. — Warlike preparations. — Quintas in the environs of Lisbon. — Fete of Corpus Christi. — Reports of Don Pedro's approach — Excursion to Cintra. — Meet Don Miguel. — St. Peter's Day. — Streets of Lisbon. — Proceed again to the Frontiers of Spain. — Contrast between Spain and Portugal. — Distrustful reception at Badajos. — Visit the breach in the Fort. — Wretched state of defence in the Spanish Garrison

Chapter II

Leave Badajos. — Merida. — Birth-place of Pizarro. — Bridge of Almaraz. — Escort of Cuirassiers. — Our March. — Regiment on Parade. — Placentia. — Leave I. VI CONTENTS. Page Placentia. — Perilous Road. — Miserable Village. — Wretched Peasantry. — Site of a Battle. — Reception at Salamanca. — St. Christoval. — A Review. — Leave Salamanca. — Banditti 22

Chapter III

Ciudad Rodrigo. — Espionage. — The Author arrested. — Old Quarters. — Village Costume. — An Old Acquaintance. — Awkward Rencontre. — An Invitation. — Ciudad Rodrigo. — A Civil Governor. — A Fracas. — Contrabandistas. — Primitive Corn-thrashing. — Running Messengers. — Unpleasant Situation. — Salamanca. — Tremendous Explosion. — Tragical Story Dreary Country. — Sham Fight. — Awkward Predicament. — Major Ball. — Buildings. — General Sickness. — Great Fair , 41

Chapter IV

Freebooters. — Party of Monks — A Review7. — Streets of Salamanca. — Interior. — A Dulcinea. — Ignorance. — Interesting Spot. — My Route — Contrabandistas.- — Toro. — Zamora. — Ancient Villages.— Dismal Town. — English Pay.— Gil Bias — Threats of Assassination. — Letters of Recal. — General Sickness.— Civility of the Spaniards. — Spanish Troops. — Cavalry and Artillery 67

Chapter V

Quit Salamanca.— My Route. — Wretched Inhabitants. — Lavajos — Villa Castin. — An Officer's Gratitude CONTENTS. VII Page Immense Posada. — Approach to Madrid. — My Hostess.— Madrid. — The Prado. — Madrid.— Bull Fights. — The Royal Family. — New Cemetery. — Mode of Burial. — Want of Feeling. — Wretched Police. — Theatres. — Paintings. — Alarm 90

Chapter VI

The Weather. — My Patrona. — Collection of Armour. — Ambassadors. — Spanish Manners. — San Fernando. — Public Penance. — The Prado. — Bull-fights. — Irish Wanderers. — Little Princesses.— Royal Palaces. — My Departure. — Our Route. — Talavera. — Field of Combat. — Village Government. — Roman Antiquities. — Arrival at Badajos. — Spanish Houses. — The Civil War. — Portuguese Frontier. — Miguelite Officers Arrival at Anjira. — Visit my Friends. — A Gale 1 1 1

CHAPTER VI.

Coast of Portugal. — Enter the Douro. — Fortifications. — Belligerent Armies. — Oporto. — Its History. — Privileges of Braga Ladies. — Moorish Walls. — Population of Oporto. — Its Churches. — Charitable Institutions. — Monasteries. — Convents 137

CHAPTER VIL

Taking the Veil. — Colleges. — Recolhimentos. — Fountains and Conduits. — Fountains. — Government of the City. — Military Establishments. — Commerce — Douro Wines. — A Tumult.— Climate of Oporto. — Floods. — Portuguese Ballad CONTENTS. VIII Page

CHAPTER VIIL

Situation of my House.— Don Pedro. — Fortifications of Oporto. — The Governor. — The Batteries.— Bishop's Palace. — Heavy Fire. — Portuguese Troops. — British Troops. — Their Charge. — French and Italian Troops. — Senhor Vanzeller. — The Town bombarded. — Miguelites attacked. — Solignac's Retreat. — Force ofthe Miguelites. — Dreadful Havoc— Mutiny. — Loss of Life. — Effects of the Bombardment. — Circumvallation 175

CHAPTER IX.

Heavy Cannonade. — Reconnoitre the Enemy. — Disastrous State of Affairs. — Critical Situation. — Dawn of Hope. — Troops landed. — Salvos of Bombs. — Arrival of Provisions. — Royal Salutes. — Miguelite Batteries. — Miguelites repulsed. — Discontent in the Army. — Scarcity of Money. — Admiral Sartorius. — Continued Bombardment. — Mutual Abuse. — Sallies of Wit. — Distressing Sight. — An Attack. — Constancy of the Inhabitants. — Parrots. — New Works 197

CHAPTER X.

Arrival of a French fleet. — Situation of Neutrals. — Deserters. — Critical state. — Starvation. — Distress of the Inhabitants. — Religious Ceremonies. — Narrow Escape. — Royal Birth-day. — Covelho Height. — Effect of the Bombs. — Desertions. — Don Pedro's cause — Review ot' Troops. — My Courier , l.\ Page 258 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XI.

_New Redoubt. — Continued Scarcity.— The Serra Bridge. — Departure of the Etna. — New Batteries — Mrs. Omerod's Death. — Attempted Arrangement. — The Clerjos Church. — -Don Miguel. — State of Oporto. — Loss of Life. — Arrival of Provisions. — Review by the Emperor. — Continued Fire. — Grenades. — Interview with Solignac. — My old Galiego. — The Serra Bridge. — National Prejudices — The Batteries. — Provisions landed 236

CHAPTER XII.

Frequent Shirmishes. — Duke de Palmella's Arrival. — Unwelcome Reinforcement. — Heavy Bombardment. — Landing of Troops. — Desperate Affairs — Proposals. — Council of War. — State of the City. — Beautiful Gardens. — Portuguese Flowers. — Political Intrigues. — The Marshal's Resignation. — Embarkation of Troops. — Review. — Departure of Solignac...

CHAPTER XIII.

Severe Bombardment. — Repulsed Assaults. — General Determination. — Anxiety. — Great News. — State of Oporto Sang Froid. — The Emperor's Dinner. — Critical Affairs. — Expected Attack. — Don Pedro's Forces. — Fortifications. — Discipline. — Movements of the Miguelites. — Major Olivares 283

CHAPTER XIV.

Preparations for Attack. — An Assault. — Failure of the Miguelites. — Female Courage. — Terceira's Progress. X CONTENTS. Page — Lisbon taken. — Reception of Don Pedro. — Mistakes of the Miguelites. — Desertions. — Miguelite Artillery. — Removal of Artillery. — Baron Haber's Proposition. — Miguelite Batteries. — The Peasantry. — Capture of Batteries. — Ruinous Delay. — Explosion in Villa Nova. — Destruction of Wine. — Retreat of the Mi guelites. — Recognition of the Queen. — Congratu lations — Saldanha's Departure. — Anecdote. — Por tuguese Fidelity. — A Trophy. — The Garrison Reduced 301

CHAPTER XV.

Banks ofthe Douro. — Pleasant Excursions. — Miguelite Movements. — Discouraging Affairs. — Portuguese Funeral. — Departure of the Orestes. — Arrival of the Queen. — Defences of Villa Nova. — Colonel Evans. — The Grape Season. — Rejoicings — The Theatre. — Sir Thomas Stubbs. — His Movements. — Miguelite Force. — Feelings of the People. — Fresh Alarms. — A Reconnoissance. — Treatment of Sir T. Stubbs. — Medical Charm 328

CHAPTER XVI.

A Disappointment. — An Engagement. — Kindness of the People. — Sail for Viana. — Arrival at Lisbon. — The Lines of Lisbon. — The Queen and the Empress. — An Excursion. — Old Recollections. — Review ofthe Troops. — Setuval. — Defences. — Beautiful Madonna. — Disturbance at the Opera. — A Mendicant. — Prolongation of the Contest — Rumours. — Lady William Russell. — Castanheiro 3-19 CONTENTS. XI Page

CHAPTER XVII.

Arrive at Cartaxo. — Accompany the Emperor. — Critical Situation. — Miguelite Movements. — The Emperor's illness.— Return to Lisbon. — Military Positions. — The Hostile Armies. — The Nobles. — A Conflagration. — Proceed to Cartaxo. — Miguelite Manœuvres. — An Attack. — Undecided Contest. — Lord William Russell recalled. — The Moorish Palace. — Salubrity of Cintra 368

CHAPTER XVIII.

Ride to Lisbon. — Cadiz. — Salutes. — Passion Week. — National Feeling. — Mouth of the Guadiana. — Villa Real. — Deplorable Garrison. — Appearance of the Country. — General Distress. — Surrender of Valenga. — Trying Situation OrderedHome. — General Bern. — Grand Entertainment. —Discontent and Mutiny. — Rag Fair — Melancholy Sight. — My Departure. — Arrival Home

ADVERTISEMENT.

. In sending forth to the Public the fol lowing Journal and Narrative, the object of the Author is to exhibit the state of affairs in the Peninsula, just as they fell under his observations ; leavingto diplo matists the task of demonstrating the effects of the late political events. The present volume is derived from a diary written on the spot, the author intending to revise and enlarge it ; but other duties have fully occupied him, and it is therefore sent forth in its original simple guise. Enham House, Andover, Oct. 23d, 1834. ROUGH LEAVES FROM A JOURNAL.

Chapter I

The Author's visit to Portugal. — Its object. — Character of the Inhabitants. — Their feeling towards the English. — Sail for the Tagus in H. M. S. Britannia. — Quarantine. — Don Miguel and his Yacht. — The Lazaretto. — Orders to proceed to the frontiers of Spain. — State of Lisbon. — My journey. — The Fortress of Elvas. — The Town. — Object of my journey. — Ride to Badajos. — Peremptory conduct of the Governor. — Return to Elvas, — and subsequently to Lisbon. — The British Church. — Warlike preparations. — Quintas in the environs of Lisbon. — Fete of Corpus Christi. — Reports of Don Pedro's approach. — Excursion to Cintra. — Meet Don Mig el. — St. Peter's Day Streets of Lisbon. — Proceed again to the Frontiers of Spain. — Contrast between Spain and Portugal. — Distrustful reception at Badajos. — Visit the breach in the Fort. — Wretched state of defence in the Spanish Garrisons.

It has been my fortune to visit Portugal only at times of trouble and distress, when the in habitants were suffering either from foreign in- B PORTUGUESE CHARACTER. 2 vasion, or domestic broils. Like the bird of ill omen to mariners, which appears only to presage tempests, my presence in the Peninsula has ahvays occurred in inauspicious times. Lord William Russell was appointed by the British Government to proceed to Portugal, accompanied by Colonel Hare and the Author, for the purpose of endeavouring to open with our old ally, those ancient relations which had been broken in upon during the usurpation of Don Miguel ; but it was supposed that a new order of things would restore our former position. Few have visited Portugal even in those troublesome times, Yvho have not brought back Yvith them kind recollections and feelings towards its inhabitants, though it has been the fashion unjustly to depreciate them.

The character given of the Portuguese seems to have been derived from persons who have only visited that part of Lisbon near the river, designated by the name of Bull Bay. An acquaintance with this place Yvill give a stranger as just an idea of the Portuguese in general, as a person PORTUGUESE CHARACTER. only visiting St. Giles's in London would haYre of the English. The Portuguese are a kind-hearted, friendly people ; particularly polite in their manners ; faithful, quiet, and domestic ; loyal to their princes, obedient, and loving their ancient laws and institutions. They formerly looked up to the English as true and faithful Allies, on whom they could always rely for protection and sup port: but all their political love for us has long since ceased. The cause of this rests with our selves.

There are three things they have reason to be sore upon : the lowering of the duty upon French wines ; the circumstance of our not giving any thanks to the Portuguese army for their sendees at the end of the Peninsular War ; and, lastly the undecided line adopted by England for a number of years, in regard to their charter, succession to the throne, &c. Embarking on board H. M. Ship Britannia, justly the pride of the British Navy, we proceeded to the Tagus, and arrived after a voyage of eight days. We unfortunately grounded near Fort St. Julien on the Cachopas, b QUARANTINE. and were obliged to start a considerable quan tity of water ; but on getting off, the usual salute was fired to the British admiral (Parker), and we anchored near a French frigate, abreast of Alcantara. Being placed under quarantine, we could not land, except at the Health Office.

Here a num ber of sallow countenances looked through a grating, whilst my companions Yvere the picture of health, with ruddy English complexions. It was laughable enough to observe what care the officers of health took, and Yvhat a fuss they made lest we should come in contact with any persons who were not in the same quarantine list with ourselves. We therefore remained on board till the 7th June, when the British fleet, consisting of the Asia, Revenge, and Britannia, got under weigh, and made sail from the Tagus. Preferring a vessel to the lazaretto, we shifted on board the Spey packet till the period of our quarantine should expire. That time was short ened as much as possible, and the Government and officers were extremely polite. During our stay on board in the river, the THE LAZARETTO.

Constellation, American frigate, arrived from Madeira, and Don Miguel was constantly cruiz ing about in his yacht, a very handsome schooner, painted red, with much gilding and ornament. The crews of his vessels cheered as he passed, and fired royal salutes. At other times he was rowed in his state barge, receiving similar ho nours as he passed, by the batteries along the shore. On the 9th, the time of our quarantine having expired, we went to the Lazaretto, on the left bank of the Tagus, to obtain pratique, and after walking through a room where a little charcoal Yvetted with vinegar was burning, we were con sidered free from contagion, and Yvere allowed to proceed to Lisbon. We saw our unhappy pilot shut up in a cell, peeping and bowing to us through the iron bars, waiting till his period should expire, so alarmed were the Portuguese lest the cholera should make its appearance, to which, possibly, was added the fear of political contagion.

We proceeded on shore, and took up our abode at Reeve's Hotel, in Buenos Ayres, well LISBON. known to the British for its agreeable situation, fine air, and commanding view of the Tagus, as well as for its cleanliness, comfort, and the civility of its attendants. The beauties and deformities of Lisbon have been so often described that I shall say but little on the subject, as I found the city scarcely, if at all, changed in appearance. Nor indeed had I much time for promenading, for on the following day, as soon as my baggage was landed, I received a passport and orders to proceed immediately to the frontiers of Spain. What I observed in Lisbon was the preva lence of an unusual stillness. Police, both mounted and dismounted, patrolled the principal streets ; every one appeared to be aYvaiting the occurrence of some important event ; Yvhilst Don Miguel was continually passing and re passing, sometimes on horseback, and some times in a carriage, but more frequently by Yvater.

I landed on the 9th, and having on the 11th, hired a Portuguese courier, crossed over to Aldea Gallega, and had a stormy passage of MY JOURNEY. about nine miles. Here I mounted post-horses and resumed my journey, during one of the hottest days I ever felt, through the plain of white sand and pine Yvoods on the south side of the Tagus, which latter give little or no shade, though they prevent the circulation of air, and render it still hotter. The open coun try is only enlivened by varieties of the cistus. Changing horses at Pegoens, a miserable post-house and hamlet, I proceeded to Vendas Novas another small posting village, and thence to Monte Moro Novo. Around this place, Yvhich stands on a rocky mountain, the fea tures of the country change from dry sandy flats, to beautifully wild romantic scenery, enlivened by a Y'ariety of shrubs interspersed with rocks, and some fountains of marble con taining the purest water.

The toYvn is a Moorish-looking place. As it was late, I thought of resting and taking some refreshment, and entered the post house for that purpose. But the news of my arrival spreading, a number of the peasantry began to assemble, and shout Viva Don Ali- GOVERNOR OF ELVAS. guel ! An uproar was arising, as they took me, I suppose, for an agent of Don Pedro, and it became necessary to close the gates whilst the shouting continued. A heavy storm of thunder and lightning with torrents of rain dispersed the mob, and taking advantage of this circumstance, I sallied forth in as dark a night as possible to pursue my route to Oriolas, Vendade Duque, and Es tremos. At the latter, a garrison town, I saw the Brigadier General Barbacena, who received me with great politeness. We talked a little on old affairs over a glass of wine, whilst the horses were getting ready for my journey to Elvas, where I arrived in the afternoon, and was paraded to the house of the Governor, Senhor Henrique Pinto de Mesquita.

The streets were filled with a very barbarous-looking and sulky peasantry, who eyed me in a way by no means promising. The Governor asked some questions as to the expected arrival of Don Pedro and his forces. On my mentioning the latter to be only about 8,000 ELVAS men, he said he wished there were more, as Don Miguel had 120,000 men in arms. The strong fortress of Elvas is prettily situated at the extreme end of the heights of Portugal, looking towards its rival Badajos in Spain. Elvas is surrounded by olive groves, vineyards, and orange and lemon trees : in deed the beauty of its situation forms a great contrast to its opposite neighbour. The town is well built and the balconies are adorned with lemon and citron trees and flowers ; but the streets are horribly filthy ; a bad and desperate population (much of which consists of deserters and smugglers) frequent them.

A fine aqueduct adds to the general supply of water for the town — wine and fruits are in abundance. Here, hoYvever, I found myself an unwel come guest ; but a British merchant, Mr. Pring, and his lady, received me in the kindest manner into their house, though the mob serenaded it every night with cries of " Viva Don Miguel!" singing patriotic songs and threatening to break in. Mr. Pring, as Yvell as myself, kept OBJECT OF iYIV JOURNEY. his arms loaded and prepared for the worst. The object of my journey was to ascertain if any Spanish force had entered Portugal, and to learn Yvhat the Spaniards were about, as it was reported in Lisbon that they had actually crossed the frontier. I could hoYvever hear little or nothing about the Spaniards, and the Portuguese said they neither wished nor cared for their presence.

But that I might ascertain as much as I could, and as my general passport gave me facilities, I mounted a horse and rode to Badajos. It happened to be during the heat of the day, when dogs and English alone are seen to move, that I arrived at the bridge across the Guadiana. The good Spaniard on duty was taking his siesta, and not to be disturbed ; and the officer, looking at the passport and seeing the large arms emblazoned, permitted me to pass and sent me to the head-quarters of the Governor, who desired me to quit the Spa nish territory immediately. But, on my re monstrating against this peremptory and abrupt RETURN TO LISBON. order, he allowed me to proceed to an hotel for an hour to refresh, accompanied by guards to observe me : when the prescribed time had expired, I returned to Elvas.

Finding myself completely a prisoner, and the public mind more excited every day, and being moreover refused an estafette to make my case known at Lisbon, I took advantage of the hour of siesta and of the additional desertion of the streets caused by a burning heat, and started off from Elvas on the 15th June. Feeling the insecurity of my route, I rode the whole way to Aldea Gallega without stopping longer than to change horses, and arrived safely, having ridden the distance in about twenty-one hours, — quicker than it had ever been done before. I there took some refreshment, crossed the Tagus, arrived at the British consul's (Mr. Hoppner) to dinner — and gave an account to the Legation of my expedition. On my return to Lisbon, I found that the guards and patrols seemed to have been doubled in the city ; otherwise every thing appeared OON MIGUEL. perfectly quiet.

Clerical processions occurred frequently. I attended the British church dedicated to St. George, which stands in a lofty situation above the Estrella convent, and is surrounded by a high wall enclosing a beautiful garden, full of choice flowers and shrubs, and having that part of it allotted to interment shaded off by tall cypresses and other trees. The church itself is a very neat plain building, aud generally speaking is very well attended. Don Miguel was continually sailing about in his yacht ; receiving salutes from his own squadron and an American corvette, whilst the British squadron remained mute. Works and fortifications Yvere being thrown up on all sides to defend the river Tagus. I visited several of the Quintas in the environs ; Laranjera, belonging to Quintella (now Conde Farrobo), B£m Fica, &c. In the latter a beautiful Chinese building was erected, hung with glass bells of different colours, which sent forth pleasing sounds as they were agitated by the wind.

Fountains and enclosed cisterns of water of large dimensions, were in the grounds serving A PROCESSION. 13 to irrigate the gardens, to wash linen in, and for other purposes. The 21st June being the fete of Corpus Christi, Don Miguel, accompanied by the two princesses his sisters, went to the Roscio, walking in procession with the priests and relics. His troops appeared in excellent order, and he seemed well received. The place was crowded, and the balconies were filled with ladies in their gayest attire. The Legation had removed to the Quinta d'Amara at Jonqueira, whence in the evening we went to visit Bern Fica, and admire the beautiful gardens, filled with magnolia trees, and various shrubs and plants. Thence we returned to the Quinta of Senhor Jose de Pinto. In the morning I walked to the Ajuda palace, still unfurnished.

The site is fine, and the building superb. During this time, reports were spread that the expedition of Don Pedro had been spoken with at sea, which caused double vigilance on the part of Don Miguel's government. The guns were continually exercised in the forts, CINTRA. and every preparation was made to repel the expected invasion. About the 25th, Don Miguel went in state on board an American corvette (the Boston). His fleet saluted on going and returning, whilst the people, who lined the batteries along the shore, also saluted and cheered him. During this period I went on board the different men-of-war, foreign as well as British : among the rest the French frigate Melpomene. I rode also to Monte Santo, a height imme diately above Belem palace, Yvhich commands a most extensive and beautiful view of Cintra, the sea, and the Alentejo.

These heights are well studded Yvith windmills, much prettier and lighter than those used in England. On the 28th I made an excursion to that romantic and beautiful spot, Cintra, so much and so deservedly admired by all the British who visit it. Returning in the evening, I met Don Miguel riding alone, attended only by three or four servants. He is a famous horseman, and was well mounted. We bowed to him from our carriage drawn by four mules. It was STREETS OF LISBON. 15 said afterwards, that he was very angry at our not alighting from the carriage to pay our re spects, but whether true or not I will not vouch : he returned our salute. On the 30th, salutes were fired in honour of Don Miguel's fourth anniversary of St. Peter's day, at day-break, mid-day, and sun-set, with illuminations at night ; but the pleasure which a pedestrian might derive from witnessing these, is greatly diminished by the annoyance he must undergo by the vile neglect of clean liness in the town.

The streets of Lisbon are indeed horribly filthy, and, to a stranger, ab solutely intolerable, though the air is in some situations rendered more fragrant by the per fumes of flowers and night-scented shrubs with which the gardens abound. Don Miguel was constantly cruising about, and the batteries and ships were daily exercised with blank cartridges. Indeed the expenditure of gunpowder was immense, and every prepara tionfor the expected invasion was made. Visiting, except amongst the foreign embassies, was at an end, and public places of amusement were shut. JOURNEY RESUMED. On the 4th July, I received a passport to proceed once more to the frontiers, and to go on to Spain. Having made preparations for departure, I embarked the following day at Jonqueira, and, arriving at Aldea Gallega, started on post-horses with my courier, Joa Paolo, at eight in the evening, to ride through the sandy pine grove and plain, towards Monte Moro Novo.

Riding all night, with some de lays, I reached Alcavarissa Quinta, near Ehras, the following afternoon ; but the gates of Elvas being at that time shut by order at 6 p.m., I remained there that night, and was received with much civility by the owner, Senhor Er mista and his lady Donna Anna Balbina. This rest was by no means disagreeable after a fa tiguing ride, and, resuming my journey at 0 a.m., I rode into Elvas. Having got my passport avise-ed by the Go vernor, Henrico Pinto de Mesquita, and avoid ing the public streets, I mounted fresh horses, and in two hours more crossed the frontier at the riYrer Caya, and entered Badajos on the 7th. The weather was exceedingly hot. I SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. presented myself immediately to the Governor and shewed my passports, which Yvere assented to, but my reception was by no means favour able though there Yvas no breach of politeness.

I put up at a caf<6 in the Praca. The difference of the two countries, Spain and Portugal, is Y'ery striking, though only a small space and a river divides them. One leaves behind in Portugal a broken mountainous country, covered with olive trees, vineyards, groves of oranges, lemons, and pomegranates, with houses and quintas of marble and granite peeping out from amongst fine foliage, and foun tains in all directions of the purest water pour ing from marble spouts into vases — whereas you enter Spain through a country burnt up, with out a tree or green spot, and arrive at towns with high Moorish walls and cupolas. The characters of the people are also very dissimilar, though in many things their common eastern origin displays itself. The Portuguese are na turally a quiet, simple, good-tempered, people ; very shy but kind-hearted and charitable; faithful and honest in the highest degree, though c THE PORTUGUESE AND SPANIARDS. fond of bombast.

Vanity is a prominent cha racteristic; they delight in intrigue; are ex tremely punctilious in all matters of etiquette and politeness; and are attached to their an cient usages, customs, and institutions. Under the greatest afflictions they are patient and re signed ; I should add to this, that they are very active and industrious, for a climate so inviting to repose. The Spaniards, on the other hand, with an apparent openness of manners, are haughty and full of treachery and deceit ; their generosity and hospitality resemble those of the Arab (both equally disliking strangers), with little kindness of heart or charity. Their roads are filled with robbers, and continual assassina tions take place in their cities and towns. The political character of their nation causes them to be reserved and suspicious, spying and beset with spies.

The Spanish ladies are considered charming ; but much of their attraction proceeds from their elegant gait, dark eyes, and Moorish customs. Their character in love, is, extreme of passion, BADAJOS. 19 jealousy, and rage, which carry them to any excess. The Portuguese ladies, though gene rally not so handsome, are more pleasing. All have most brilliant eyes, and are very attached, faithful, and domestic. I put up at a very clean house in Badajos, kept by civil people ; but in spite of my letters of recommendation, I was received with great distrust. The governor's permission that I should walk round the works of the town, was solicited but refused : however, an officer, they said, would accompany me to visit the breach in the morning. I strolled, ne vertheless, to a parade of three battalions in the afternoon.

The troops were well clothed and appointed ; but finding myself an object of great distrust, and being quite alone, I felt what a disagreeable life I Yvas likely to lead. Soon after day-break the town-major waited on me, to accompany me to the place of the breach. He conducted me through back lanes, leading out at a small sally-port into the ditch, and brought to a spot where, in point of fact, I could see nothing of the works, — only the c FORTIFICATIONS. breach, or rather what had been made such. I found that part in good preservation, and just as it had been left by us as repaired after its capture. The date of the year was marked in shot in the wall, and in the same manner Yvas indicated the site where the body of one of our Generals was buried. I then went inside, and expressed a wish to see the spot where a number of the remains of my gallant countrymen were interred within the lines.