Tours in Upper India, and in parts of the Himalaya Mountains, with accounts of the courts of the native princes, etc

Front matter

TO U RS IN UPPER INDIA, AND IN PARTS OF THE HIMALAYA MOUNTAINS. VOL. I. LONDON : PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, Dorset Street, Fleet Street. TOURS IN UPPER INDIA, AND IN PARTS OF THE HIMALAYA MOUNTAINS; WITH ACCOUNTS OF THE COURTS OF THE NATIVE PRINCES, &c. BY MAJOR ARCHER, LATE AID-DE-CAMP TO LORD COMBERMERE. Where the gorgeous East, with richest hand, Showers on her kings barbaric pearl and gold. Milton. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, (successor to henry COLBURN.) 1833. TO GENERAL THE VISCOUNT COMBERMERE, G.C.B. G.C.H. &c. My Loud, It is with feelings of pride and pleasure that I dedicate the following pages to your Lordship. Originating amidst the scenes and events which they attempt to describe, and in the latter of which your Lordship participated in almost every instance, I could not possibly avail myself of a firmer or more agreeable DEDICATION. support of their fidelity than your Lordship's auspices.

Nor can I experience a higher gratification than being permitted to offer this Work to your Lordship's protection, and to subscribe myself, your Lordship's most humble and attached Servant, The Author.

Preface

. Without desiring to attract favourable notice through the aid of dress, which, in this book making age, could, by the assistance of " ex perienced hands," have been easily effected, the Author hopes that the garb in which these pages appear, may in no wise raise up a pre judice against the subject : and though he has been led, unwarily perhaps, to depend upon himself alone, he has in all things en deavoured to remember, that he who offers himself to the observation of the Public, is bound to do so with becoming diffidence and respect. A writer in a recent " popular" Work upon

PREFACE.

. VIII India sets out with the opinion, that " It is not necessary to have visited those countries which are intended to be descrihed," and, as it might most reasonably be expected from one who proceeds upon such a principle, has produced a Work more fanciful and ingenious than consistent or correct. The argument implies, that he who writes at a distance, is less likely to be biassed by prejudice or partiality, than he who describes from the scene itself. The truth of this is more than questionable ; for whoever writes under such circumstances, must be satisfied either by treating the subject very generally or abstractedly ; or, if he enters into particular details, he must be content to derive his information at second hand ; in which case, he must labour under great disadvantages, compared with one who has both seen and heard what he describes, and who has formed his judgment, if not by patient, at least by frequent, observation. The inadvertences and mistakes into which a stranger not conversant with the language

PREFACE.

. IX and peculiarities of a foreign people must in evitably fall, and without the possibility of correction, are avoided by him who has taken advantage of the opportunities of beholding all things in their actual state, and who, un influenced by the reports of others, writes as he sees and feels. It would be impossible for an European who has never travelled in the East, to comprehend, or even imagine, the many and important differences of character which are the effects of climate alone ; the numerous and nameless habits and peculiarities, which, originating from civil and religious institutions, can only be viewed under their various shades, and perhaps only cor rectly estimated by the traveller : and after all, it is these points which constitute the apparent and essential differences between the inhabit ants of different countries, and which determine their relative position in the scale of civilization. In the Journal of " Tours in the Upper Provinces of Hindoostan," in the " Sketches X

PREFACE.

. of the Bengal Government," and the " Present Condition of the Army belonging to that Pre sidency," the reader, it is hoped, will admit the writer's claim to sincerity of intention, even if he should be considered erroneous in his opinions. The more various the lights by which a subject is viewed, the more accurate will be the judgment formed of its features and proportions : and at the present moment, when India and her vast concerns are passing in review before the British nation, it is a duty incumbent upon all who wish well to the mother country and her extensive possessions in the East, and who have had opportunities of acquiring information, to afford it to the utmost of their power, for the advance ment of the prosperity and happiness of India, and for the firmer security of England in re taining what was, and might yet continue to be, the brightest jewel in her diadem. In the course of the Narrative there may seem to be more of censure than of praise : but who is to blame ? The evils and imperfections

PREFACE.

. XI appeared to the writer in all the reality of existence, and such as he has endeavoured to describe them ; and to have given a different or a qualified account would have been a gra tuitous sacrifice of his conviction, — of that which he conceived to be the truth. If what is contained in the following pages should tend, in the smallest degree, to dispel the indifference with which India and her hun dred millions of inhabitants have hitherto been regarded, or more happily, if at this critical period, which is to determine the lot of so large a portion of the globe subjected to the rule of Great Britain, this Work should serve to quicken the least spark of that in terest and attention which the magnitude of our Indian possessions, the resources of the soil, and the destinies of the people demand at the hands of the British nation, — the in fluence which the writer may have thus been instrumental in exercising, will prove to him a lasting source of proud and heartfelt satisfaction. [The Publisher thinks it necessary to add to the foregoing, that, when the present Work was passing through the press, the Author was absent from England, and the proof-sheets could not, therefore, have the benefit of his revision.

Notwithstanding every care, some errors in the spelling of Hindoostani proper names, and names of places, may have occurred. Should such be found, the Author is not responsible.] CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. FIRST TOUR.

Chapter I

Enter the territories of the King of Oude — Coronation — Hindoostani Dishes — Procession — Breakfast — The Prince — Presents — Aspect of the Country — The Prince's Visit — Cavalcade — Procession to Lucknow — The Meeting — Dis tribution of Money — Arrival at the Palace — The King's Dress — Eastern Ceremony — Regal Assumption — The Eng lish Village — Struggle for Seats — Tomb of the late King — The Happy Abode .... Page 1

Chapter II

Sports of the East — The Imam-bareh — Dinner with the King — The Visit returned — Contests of Wild Beasts — The Sultan Munzil — Elephant-Fights— Bombast— The Minister — Ruined Town — Daily Marches — Bridge of Boats — Irriga tion — Wolves — Husbandry ... 28

Chapter III

City of Canouge — A Caravanserai — A Rainy Day — Christmas Day — Hakim Mehdee — Furruckabad — Daily Marches — Mynpooree — Ravines— The Ram-baug — A mag- CONTENTS. XIV nificent Tomb — A Ruined City — The Pearl Mosque — Hin doostani Architecture— The Musjid— The Hall of Audience — Summary Justice — The great Acbar — Splendid Rooms — The Agra Gun . . . . .46

Chapter IV

Agra — Cemetery of Shah Jehan — City of Tombs — Acbar — Curious Pulpit — Great Mogul's Banner — The Rajah — His Tent — Indian Hawking — War in Bhurtpore — The Jauts — Indian Holy Land — Eastern Legend — Military Accident — Saintly Town — Fall of Hattrass — Moorsaum — Fortified Places — Bijagur — Coel — Alligurh — Fall of Alligurh — The Fort — Daily Marches — Oriental Manners — Patriarchal Law — Native Character — Man of great age — Colonel Skinner — Reception at Dinner — Banks of the Jumna . . 68

Chapter V

Prince Meerza Suleem — Delhi — Wall of Delhi — The Jummah Musjid— Under-ground Houses — Visit to the King — Ceremony of Presentation — Old Delhi — Homaion's Tomb A Bowliah — Colossal Ruins — Enormous Column — Iron Pil lar — Hindoo Sculpture — Ruined Mosque — Astronomical Instruments . . . . .103

Chapter VI

Gateways— The Present King -Daily Marches— Battle of Pauniput — A Saint's Tomb — Wild Beasts — Kurnaul Himalaya Mountains — Crossing the River Putnee and Shamlee — Persian Water-wheel — The Begum Somroo Meerut — Hospitality at Meerut . . . .125

Chapter VII

Bussombah— Flooded Lands— Tiger-shooting— Crossing the Ganges— Aggressions in India— A fallen Prince— Eng- CONTENTS. XV lish Injustice — More Tiger-shooting — Game — Kunkul — Junction of the rivers— Pilgrims at Hurdwar — Town of Hurdwar — A Tiger burned — An old Moslem Town — Botanic Garden — Crossing the Jumna — The Sikhs . . 148

Chapter VIII

A Sikh Town— Social Warfares — Runjeet Sing — Village Tribunals — A narrow Escape — Religious Conciliation — Agriculture— Drunkenness — Characteristics of the Sikhs — Daily Marches — Sirhind — The Rajah of Puttialah — His At tendants — Melancholy Prospects — Visit to the Rajah — A Feud — Eastern Mile-stones — Loodianah — Family Feuds — Shah Shujah — His Court — His Body-guard— A Vakeel — Runjeet' s Guards . . . . 174

Chapter IX

Ferogepoor — Beautiful Country — A Drunken Rajah — The Pinjore Valley — Garden-Cascades — A Night Festival — Ascent commenced — -Ascent continued — Recollections of Home — Subathoo — Healthiness ofthe Hills — Hill-travelling — Hill-scenery— The Rhododendron — Mountain Plants 199 SECOND TOUR. JOURNEY ACROSS THE SUTLEGE RIVER INTO THE HILL-STATE OF KOOLOO,

Chapter I

Storm in the Mountains — Road to Nakundah— Magnificent Spectacle — Rajah of Komharsein — A Rope-bridge — Kooloo Festivity — Ascent of the Mountain — A Bramin 's Gratitude A Kooloo Game — Dangerous Ceremony — Braminical CONTENTS. Ignorance — A Mountain Village — Mountain Streams — Pasturage — Extraordinary Rock — A Travelling Lama — Religious Procession — Infanticide — A Kooloo Fair . 217

Chapter II

Baree Roopur— .Banks of the Khoondun— Pheasants — Grand Prospect— Village of Serahun — The Pass of Bilasheo — A Happy Valley — Kooloo Agriculture — The Vizier's House — Neermund — Medical Advice — Crossing the Sut lege — Rampore — Pushard and Gourah — A Party of Tartars — Clear Atmosphere— Perilous Road — Debris of the Moun tain — Dangerous Travelling — Beontul — Crawne and Bana mowlee — Huttoo — A Panoramic View . . . 241 THIRD TOUR. JOURNEY FROM SIMLAH TO THE BORENDO PASS.

CHAPTER I.

The Mahasoo Range — The Rana's House — A lofty En campment — Nagnee — Modes of Ascent — A secluded spot — The Rana of Joobul — His Handmaid — Magnificent Scenery — A Primeval Forest — The Rana's House — Agri culture — The Ranee — Head Priest of Busahir — The Busahir Territories — A Bramin Village — Chergong — Road to Pecca — Bears and Bees— Dance of the Gods — Sacrifice to the Gods ...... 267

CHAPTER II.

Junction of Rivers— Mountain Deities— Odd Custom Janleeg— Shawl Goats— Fallen Cliffs— A stupendous Scene CONTENTS. XVII — Cairns of Stones — Loyalty — State of the Atmosphere — A Party lost — The Rajah of Busahir — Vaccination — Ty ranny of the Ranee — Deorah — The Rana's Palace — Peralla 292

Chapter III

The Hill-People — The Rajahs — Siva, the Destroyer — Priestly Dictation — Temples in the Hills — Superstitious Rites — Images of Deities — Sacrificial Ceremonies — Hill- Forts and Villages — Houses in the Hills — Hill-Temples — Seasoning of Wood — Hill-Bridges — Irrigation — Indian Grain — Agricultural Produce — Cultivation — Himalaya Forests — Trees and Shrubs — Roads in the Hills . . 310

Chapter IV

The Mountains — English Flowers and Trees — Climate of the Hills — Salubrity of the Hills — Diseases of the Hills — Character of the Mountaineers — Hill Zoology — Human Sa crifices — Opening for Speculation — Fatal Enterprize — A curious Paper : the Hieroglyphic Drawing . . 334 FOURTH TOUR. IN THE UPPER PROVINCES OF HINDOOSTAN.

Chapter I

Arrival in Camp — Extraordinary Tree — Meeting of the Chiefs Visit of the Rajah — His Visit returned — Character of the Rajah— Daily Marches — Peewah — Hindoo Absolu tion A juvenile Rajah— His Visit — Dewallee Festival — The Rajah of Jheend — Town of Jheend — District of Hur rianah—Hissar — Hansi Fort — George Thomas — Skinner's Horse • • 3S7 VOL. I. b CONTENTS.

Chapter II

Major Frazer — A Villager killed — District of Rhotuck — Voluntary Penance — Gate of Delhi — The Promenade — The young Princes — Escape of two Girls — Road from Delhi — The Stud at Haupper — Banks of the Ganges . TOURS IN UPPER INDIA 5 Sfc. FIRST TOUR. FROM 6th DECEMBER 1827, TO APRIL 8"' 1828.

CHAPTER I.

Enter the territories of the King of Oude Coronation Hindoostani Dishes. — Procession. — Breakfast. — The Prince Presents. — Aspect ofthe Country The Prince's Visit Cavalcade. — Procession to Lucknow. — The Meeting Distribution of money. — Arrival at the Palace The King's Dress. — Eastern Ceremony. — Regal Assumption. — The English Village. — Struggle for Seats Tomb of the late King. — The Happy Abode. On the 6th of December 1827, crossed the Ganges, at Cawnpore, and entered into the King of Oude's territories. Until the year 1819, this monarch had borne the title of Nawaub Vizier, being the hereditary Vizier of the Great Mogul, in which dignity his ancestor, Saadut Khan, was placed by Mahom med Shah, in 1730. CORONATION. In 1819, Ghazee Hyder, the then Vizier, desired the dignity of king, which being acquiesced in by the British Government, though upon the express stipulation that the assumption should not be the means of altering the existing relations, he was crowned King in October of that year.

I had the honour of an invitation to the coronation, which, owing to the admixture of barbaric pomp and European etiquette, was as ridiculous an occurrence as may well be conceived by those who are aware of the utter disregard, which prevails in an Eastern court, to all order, system, or decorum. On this occasion the lord of misrule was in his full potency. Gold and silver, small pearls and precious stones, of inferior size and value, were thrown amid the dense crowd in the throne-room, which occasioned the best efforts of the spectators to secure them. The ceremony concluded with presents of shawls, and ornaments for the head and arms, to each of the European ladies and gentlemen present, according to rank : those which I received were bought by a person belonging to the palace for 600 rupees, and were set by, to be given to any one else, on an occasion where presents were intended to be made.

HINDOOSTANI DISHES. 3 We found the camp pitched at Onow ; at which place tents belonging to the King were ready for the reception of the Commander-in- Chief. Accompanying these was a batterie de cuisine and twenty elephants, some with massy silvered and other ornamented howdahs and trappings. It was proposed by the King that the Com mander-in-Chief should become his Majesty's guest ; but this arrangement not being con sented to, it was considered sufficient to supply a few dishes at each meal, which being in true Hindoostani taste and style, were excellent of their kind ; although the natives, among other instances of indifference, sometimes amounting to insolence, to Europeans whenever they can exercise it, scarcely ever take the same pains in the preparation of food for them which they do for themselves.

Dec. 7. — The camp remained at Onow, to allow the stragglers to come up. All is bustle and confusion, and almost every one employed in putting the marching apparatus in order, for it is only when the first or second march is made that a person is enabled to ascertain what is wanting. Some of the shooters went out for game — nothing new stirring. B PROCESSION. Dec. 8. — Marched to Rahamut Gunge, (ten and a half miles.) When within two miles of camp, we met the heir-apparent of the kingdom, who came in state to receive and conduct the Commander-in-chief to the capital. His High ness was accompanied by the Minister, Aga Meer, whose history will be glanced at in ano ther place. The Prince, a youth of nine or ten years of age, was on an elephant surrounded by many of his father's court, and after the salam on both sides, was, according to etiquette, taken into the Commander-in-chief's howdah.

The procession, which had been arranged previously, then commenced. A squadron of the 11th Dragoons and one of the 9th Native Cavalry led the way, the band of the former corps playing. The Commander-in-chief, with his personal staff, as also the whole of the general, several visitors, all in full dress, and mounted on elephants, fell into the train. The troops of the King lined the way, and pre sented a motley appearance, without order or discipline, formality, or any approach to regularity, so essential in European armies. They were armed and dressed according to individual fancy. One exception, however, was to be ob served in a small body of lancers, which the BREAKFAST. late King had raised in imitation of our l6th» when a party of that corps went over to Luck now with Lord Amherst. The Oude Lan cers are the best equipped soldiers the King possesses, perhaps because they have been so recently embodied : certainly they are the elite of his forces.

There were also matchlock-men in various garbs ; mounted nobles on fine horses and splendid caparisons ; people on foot, spearmen, others with swords and shields, and all so mixed together, as to defy the most stoical countenance not to smile at their hetero geneous appearance. The elephants crowding and pushing each other, the horsemen prancing their steeds, and the multitude shouting, it was thus we approached the tents of the Prince, in which he was to give his Excellency and suite the customary breakfast. His Excellency was received with a salute of cannon. The breakfast was, as usual on such occasions, a complete scramble to all but the two chiefs ; every one took what care he could of himself, and made the most of his time : the Lucknow nobles did the same, and appeared to understand the right method better than their guests, for they invariably occupied the best places at table, and cared no more for strangers THE PRINCE. than if they had been posts.

On this occasion, I renewed an acquaintance, contracted at the coronation, with a native gentleman, a blithe, jolly companion, fond of shooting and all sorts of sport, and withal by no means scrupulous in his potations as to quantity : this he reconciled somewhat to his conscience by being exceed ingly particular in the quality of his drink, es chewing all but cherry -brandy and champagne. He was polite enough to invite me to his house the next day, whither I accordingly went, but my friend was so positively drunk as to be wholly unable to hear, see, or speak : for the sake of friendship, I forget his name. The appearance of the Prince 'was not pre possessing, being very dark, with thick lips ; he was, moreover, of a heavy stupid disposition. He seemed to be quite ignorant of his station and of the part required of him.

At table the Commander-in-Chief offered the Minister a plate of pilaw, which was considered by the lookers-on to be a mighty condescension ; it was, indeed, so hinted to his Excellency, who laughingly replied, "I like to keep on good terms with a prime minister." The Minister's two sons were present, the youngest a fine handsome lad about the same age as the prince, but very acute : he was fair, well dressed, and PRESENTS. 7 rode admirably. His Excellency complimented the boy on his horsemanship, upon which he blushed, rose, and salamed his sense of the honour. The Prince's dress was covered with diamonds and pearls, all put on with an utter disregard to taste. Breakfast over, an adjourn ment took place to a tent where the trays of presents were laid out for his Excellency. These consisted of shawls and jewels, which were, as is always the case, taken by the Com pany, and after being sold, are carried to the credit of Government.* An order on the subject of presents had a day or two previously arrived in camp, prohibiting the exchange of them on all occasions, and urging the visit of the Commander-in-Chief as a favourable opportunity for the total abolition of the custom.

The befitting part of the farce assigned, was the visit of the Commander-in-Chief, being the first after the accession of his Majesty to the musnud ; as if a slight, which in feeling amounted to an insult, would become the more palatable from its being early administered. On the proposition * The balance of the account pro and con of presents made and received by the Commander-in-Chief in his official capacity, amounted to 20,000 rupees in favour of the Com pany ! PRESENTS. being intimated to the King, he immediately declined his acquiescence, stating that arrange ments had been entered into agreeably to usage, and that whatever the Company might subse quently desire, the present demand was objec tionable on more grounds than one. The point was conceded by the Governor-general, who, however, consoled himself in a strict negative to any individual accepting a present, or indeed to any being offered for ac ceptance.

The Governor-general bore in mind a recent visit to Lucknow, when the conduct of many was such as to call forth the present prohibition. The offering and receiving presents is so old a custom, that we find it mentioned in the transactions of the Patriarchs, and it is one of many which links the Eastern world in a chain of connexion with the history of the earlier ages of the Western. In India, more parti cularly since the arrival of Europeans, the de sire for such substantial marks of generosity, or evidences of fear, as intended to conciliate anger or ill will, has been ardent in the ex treme ; and it is well known, that few years have elapsed since the servants of the Company looked to this source, as the surest, if not the fairest, for their early return to England. PRESENTS. 9 It is lamentable that the cases of abandonment of oaths and promises to the contrary have been many, and to a known and positive amount ; at this moment, the instances of declared and imputed corruption on the parts of some of the highest and most responsible servants of the Company, are more than one or two ; but these are not sufficient to affix a colouring to a whole service, which, whether for integrity, talent, zeal, and intelligence, is not exceeded by any one in the world.

Amid such temptations as every hour are within reach, the wonder is, how few the numbers are, that fall from their high estate. The Court of Directors once thought philosophically on this point, and readily drove away temptation by their own liberality : but now, as if ashamed of their generosity, they have entered on a new system of retrench ment, not only in their civil service, but in their military and miscellaneous branches : the results may, without the gift of prophecy, be predicted.* * That the practice of presenting offerings by the subor dinates of an office, or establishment, to their superior, should be kept within bounds or wholly abrogated (for the difficulty of controlling the practice or limiting its effects) is obvious. Between the different governments, the abolition is of no moment; and if the usage tends to smooth the ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY.

Previous to retiring, garlands of silver fringe and tissue, were placed by the Prince and the Minister round the necks of the Commander in-Chief's party ; upon which, each took his leave and repaired to his own tent. The aspect of the country is one undeviat ing plain. Cultivation is not extended ; but patches of grain, oil, and other products were seen ripening for the hurreef or last harvest. One of the villagers mentioned, that out of the well which supplied our camp with water, twenty bodies were drawn a few years ago ; they formed a part of a company travelling to their homes, who were waylaid at night by a band of murderers, killed, and thrown into the well. Occurrences of this description were not infrequent formerly, though not to a similar extent : the water was never drunk except by those unacquainted with the cir cumstances of the bloody tragedy. rough road of intercourse, why may it not remain ?

The order prohibiting a present even of a little fish or fruit was issued in the beginning of 1829, and proved the absence of a correct knowledge of the manners and customs of the natives : a present of fruit and vegetables to travellers from a polite native, is felt by all who journey in India, and the value of such a gift, intrinsically, is of most insignificant amount. THE PRINCE'S VISIT. 11 Dec. 9. — Marched to Newolgunge, (eleven miles,) where the Commander-in-Chief returned the ceremony of a breakfast to the Prince. His reception was more orderly and decorous than the row of yesterday. Dragoons and infantry lined the main street of the camp, which had been purposely made wide for the occasion, and at the opposite end to his en trance, some pieces of horse artillery saluted his Highness with nineteen guns : himself and cortege came on elephants.

The breakfast was wholly prepared by his people, though laid out in our own tents. The poor boy ate nothing, and looked as if he wished to divest himself of his cumbrous trappings and jewels. His dress was the same as that which he wore yesterday. After breakfast the appropriate presents were offered to the Prince, and he took his leave with another salute of nineteen guns. The nobles attending his Highness had their separate suite of tents, which appeared commodious, and were surrounded by walls of red-striped cloth, out side of which their followers encamped. Ele phants, camels, horses, with the numerous re tinue of an Eastern camp, bivouacked on what ever spot was to be had ; and the dissonance pre vailing the livelong night is only to be known by witnessing it — it is beyond description.

CAVALCADE. Dec. 10. — At sunrise marched to Futty gunge (eight miles). On the road fell in with a number of hawks, which had been sent from the city. Saw several flights at paddy birds and crows, which afforded some amusement: a hawk of the long-winged kind, called a Bhyree, was flown at a heron, but not being staunch, gave no sport. There were at least twenty hawks of various species and for different sorts of game. The Meer Shikar, or Master of the Chase, was attired in " Lincoln Green," with the attributes of his profession : he was by our party dubbed the " Duke of St. Albans." During the time of hawking, the Prince with his suite passed by on an ele phant ; the lancers went before him, the whole party surrounded by skirmishers on horseback ; there were many spearmen on foot, who kept pace; matchlocks, swords, spears, and pennons were glancing in the sunbeams of as delicious a morning as ever appeared ; the superb dresses of the men and caparisons of the horses threw a lustre upon the cavalcade.

The effect was peculiarly striking ; and conveyed to a stranger, like myself, the most pleasurable sensations from its novelty and style. Dec. 11. — This being considered a propitious day, we left our camp at seven o'clock to enter PROCESSION TO LUCKNOW. 13 Lucknow, the capital of Oude.* It had been arranged, that the King should meet the Command er-in-chief five miles from his capital. In consequence, all were to go in state upon elephants. Among the visitors were many ladies ; full-dress the order of the day. The procession com menced with a detachment of Dispatch Camels, followed by a squadron of the 11th Light Dra goons, one of the native cavalry, and a small party of Skinner's irregular horse. Then came the falconry, headed by his Oriental Grace of St. Albans, each man with a hawk upon his fist ; next came hircarrahs, or foot messengers ; then those who bore silver-sticks, as badges of their office ; after these, his Excellency and suite.

On leaving camp, the road admitted a dozen elephants abreast ; presently the Prince's party joined us, ours drawing up on the road- * In all matters of moment, the natives of Hindoostan never venture upon action without consulting their favourite oracles. The Moslem, like the Roman, refers to a book for guidance, generally the Koran ; the poets are also in good repute among them ; the stars, with the help of an astrologer, likewise are supposed to know something on the occasion, and to them recourse is had. The Hindoo relies wholly upon starry influences through the interpretation of his gooroo or priest. An astrologer is a constituted autho rity in all the villages, and nothing pertaining to life and its concerns is commenced without his sanction. THE MEETING. side to receive him. The crowd of elephants had now become larger, and indications of what we afterwards experienced, quickly appeared in the rush that was made to secure good places in the line.