Damascus and Palmyra: a journey to the East. With a sketch of the state and prospects of Syria under Ibrahim Pasha

Chapter I

Pago Coast of Syria — Mount Lebanon — Beirout Quarantine — Laza retto—Sunset—A wild Turk — Greek and Druse Women — St. George and the Dragon — Suleiman Pasha — Antiquities— Mosaics — Streets of Beirout — Cemetery — Mourners — Mulberry Groves — Fountain — The Emir Beshir — Disarming of the Druses — Journey to Deir el Kammar— Ibrahim Pasha — Bteddin — Emir Beshir's Castle — The Emir's Court — Stud — Harem — Horses — Baths — Egyptian Soldiers— The Druses — The Maronites - Monastery of Kanobin — Metualies — Beirout -Idiot — Seizure of Mules — Scenerv — Harbour— Governor — Muleteer ...... 1

Chapter II

Beirout — Departure— Curious Cavalcade— Ascent of Libanus — Moonlight Scene — Encampment — Druse Women — Khan — Descent of Libanus — Zahle — Tomb of Noah— Cœlesyria— Circular ruined Temple— Baalbec — Its Origin — Worshipof Baal — Gigantic Stones — Ruins — Temples— Grand Portico — Temple of the Sun—Archi tectural Ornaments — Smaller Temple — Ruined Corridors— Cavalry Review — Arab Funeral Lamentation- The Corpse -The Grief of the Women — Village of Baalbec ....... 42

Chapter III

Excursion to Mount Lebanon — Monumental Column — Cedars of Lebanon — Baalbec — Vaults — Cisterns — Quarries — Anti-Libanus — Arabs— Scenery — Village of Surgawich— Arab Visitors -Arab Women — Zebdeni — Its Environs — River Barrada — Wady Barrada — Scenery of the Wady — Souk — Souk Barrada — Djissr Dumar — Sheikh's Tomb — First View of Damascus— The rich Foliage — The Rivers of Damascus — Entrance of the City — Bazaar — Blind ness— Fruits — Convent ........ 74

Chapter IV

Damascus — Convent — Bath of Musk — Hall of Preparation — Bathing Scene— Bathing Process— Women's Bath — Great Mosque VOL. II. b VI CONTENTS Page — Bazaars — Pastry Cooks— Arabian Nights— Book Bazaar— Koran — Convent — Saddle Horses — Environs of Damascus— Behairat el Merdj— Lanterns — Ramble in the Dark — Characteristics of the People — Apathy of the Damascenes — Oriental Scenes — Shop keepers — Village of Salahieh— Country Villa — The Consular Resi dence — Damascus— The Great Cemetery — Extraordinary Scene — Female Mourners — Eastern Ladies— The Country Villa— Hospital of Lepers— Saul of Tarsus— The Djereed — The Meadow of Damas cus 100

Chapter V

Damascus — Street called Straight — Mosque of the Dervishes — Khan of Hussein Pasha— Scene in a Khan— Conclusion of a Bar gain — Bagdad Caravan — Bedouin Women — Military Divan — Streets — Cafes — Gate of Tombs — Funeral Procession — Hired Mourners — Mussulman Superstition — Salahieh — Scenery — Blind ness—Ophthalmia — Amusing Anecdote — Mistake of the Guard — Mosques — Imauns — Muezzins — Environs of Damascus — Oriental Scenes— Sunset— The Call to Prayer — Mussulman Prayers—De votion—Night Call to Prayer 136

Chapter VI

Damascus — House of Assab Pasha— Grand Saloon — Internal Mag nificence—House of Ali Aga Kazini Katibi — The Crystal Chamber — Politeness of the Proprietor — Damascene Houses — The Gardens of Damascus — The Place of the Separation of the Waters — The surrounding Scenery — Ride through the Gardens — Salahieh — Arrival of the Bedouin Arabs — The Sheikh and his two Re lations — Their Visit to the British Consul — Their Mode of Salu tation, Dress, and Conversation — Their Reception as the Guests of the Author and his Friends — Salahieh — The Women of the Harem — Bedouin Arabs — Preparation for Dinner — Purification — The Prayers of the Bedouins — Explanation of the Prayers — Extracts from the Koran — The Mussulman's Paradise — His Idea of a future State — Termination of the Prayers — The Dinner — The vo racious Appetites of the Bedouin Guests — The Scene at Midnight — A Morning's Walk into Damascus — Oriental Scenes—Quarrel ling Arabs — The Sugar Merchant's Shop — Scene at the Shop — The Damascene Wag confounded— The Preparation of the De parture for Palmyra— Account of the present State of the Desert — Œneze Tribe of Arabs — The Mode of Life of the Bedouins— The Bedouin Sheikh ]G2 OF VOL. II. VII

Chapter VII

Page Departure for Palmyra — Mounting Dromedaries — Activity of the Arabs — Halt for the Night — The Ghouta of Damascus — Bedouin Encampments — Wild Scenery — Desert of El Hammad — The Flocks and Herds — Filling the Water-skins— The Arming of the Ber~ douins — Bedouin Arms — Bedouin War-cry — Sham Combat — Contest between the two Sheikhs— Beautiful Training of the Horses — Entering the Desert — Singular Prospect from the Moun* tains — Arrival at Nebk — Arab Villagers — Ignition of Phosphoric Matches— The Astonishment of the Arabs — Departure from Nebk — The Sheikh and his Brother — Their extreme Civility — Route to Palmyra — The Plain of Salt — The Encampment of the Bedouin Sheikh— The Tents — The Salutation of the Arabs — The Bedouin Women — Dromedaries— Feast in the Sheikh's Tent— The Mode of Life of the Bedouins — Preservation of antient Customs — State of Society among them — The Authority of the Sheikhs — Descrip tion of the Desert— The Vegetation of the Desert — The Flocks and Herds of the Bedouins— The Migrations of the Tribes— The Arab Horses — Scene after Supper in the Sheikh's Tent — The Ap pearance of the Arabs congregated round the Fire . . . 197

Chapter VIII

Bedouin Camp — Scene at Sunrise— Dromedaries — The Morning Prayers — Some Account of the Bedouins — The Arabian Horse — Breakfast in the Sheikh's Tent — Making Presents to the Women of the Tribe — Dress and Appearance of the Women — Fondness of the Bedouins for Sugar — Their Delight at the sight of an English Drawing of a Party of Bedouins — Bedouin Music— Departure- Journey in the Desert— Halts during the Day— The Cerastes or Horned Snake — Halt at Cariatein — Mounting a Dromedary — Route from Cariatein to Palmyra — Appearance of the Desert — The Djerboas — Bedouins of the Bagdad Caravan — The Method of kindling a Fire in the Desert— Scene at Sunset — Visit to the Bedouins of the Bagdad Caravan — Coffee and Spices of Bagdad — Romantic Scene by the Light of the Fires — The Beauty of the Heavens — An Arab at Prayer — Continuation of the Journey by Moonlight — An unruly Dromedary — Night March across the Desert — Beauty of the Moonlight— Romantic Appearance of the long Caravan— The Night Encampment — The immense Fires — Continuation of the Journey at Sunrise — Halts in the Desert — The Scenery— View of the Mountains of Palmyra — Arrival at the Valley of the Tombs — Arrival at the Citadel of Palmyra and the Village of Tadmor 223 b CONTENTS

Chapter IX

Page History of Palmyra— Tadmor in the Wilderness — Its Foundation by Solomon — The Name changed by the Greeks— The Prosperity and Magnificence of Palmyra accounted for — Odenatus the Palmy rene — His Victories over the Persians — His Assassination by Mæo nius—Zenobia, Queen of Palmyra — Her Beauty and Accomplish ments — Her Victories over the Romans — Her Conquest of Egypt — March of Aurelian against her — The Battle of Immai — The Capture of Antioch — The Battle of Emesa— The Siege of Pal myra—The Flight and Capture of Zenobia — The Execution of Longinus — The Destruction of Palmyra — The Triumph of Aure lian—The Fate of Zenobia 253

Chapter X

Palmyra — General Aspect of the Ruins — The Great Desert — The peculiarly wild and solemn Scenery— Description of the Ruins — The Grand Gateway— The Grand Avenue of Columns — Ruined Gateways and Colonnades— The small Temple— The Entrance to the Citadel — Greek Inscriptions — The Double Colonnade in the Interior of the Citadel — The Temple of the Sun -The ornamented Chambers — The Zodiac 284

Chapter XI

Palmyra — Valley of the Tombs — Sepulchral Monuments — Greek and Palmyrene Inscriptions — Tomb of lam blichus— Tomb of Ela belus Manæus — The Saracenic Castle — Singular View from the Mountains— Antient Aqueducts — Ancient Stone Doorway — Slaughter of a Camel— Monumental Columns — Antient Baths — Palmyrene Inscriptions — The Magnificence of the Citadel — The Grotto of Hot Water — The Thunder Storm — The wild Appear ance of the Desert and of the Ruins — The Lightning — Excursion into the Desert — The Plain of Salt — The Great Desert— The Vil lage of Tadmor — The Arab Hostess — Arab Villagers Bedouin Arabs— The Arab Girl — The present Appearance of the Village of Tadmor 304

Chapter XII

Palmyra— Departure— Last View of the Ruins —Scene over the Desert — The Night Encampment — Antelopes— The Hunt— The Gazelle— Cariatein— Arab Women — Well of Water — Arab Girl — Arab Women drawing Water The Sheikh of Djeroud— His Ara- OF VOL. II. IX Page bian Horse — The Dromedary — The Arrival at Djeroud — The Sheikh's House — The Supper — Departure at Sunrise— The Mush room of the Desert — The Merdj of Damascus — The Disarming of the Bedouins -The Approach to Damascus — Scene at Sunset — Eastern Sunsets — Arrival at Salahieh — The Bedouin Arabs — Their Moral and Social Condition — Comparison between the Civil ization of the Bedouins and that of the Mass of the British Popu lation 337

Chapter XIII

Damascus — The Gardens -The Fruits — The Bazaars— The Da mascene Tailor — The Great Mosque — The Gate Bah Girun — The Bedouin Sheikh — His Conversation at Dinner — Bedouin Kind ness to Horses — Damascene Manufactures — The Working Jewel lers — The Sabres — Ladies' Costume — Damascene Grandees — Da mascene Girl — Elegant Costume — The Ladies of Damascus — Su perstition — The Evil Eye — The Saddle Bazaar— The Nargilla — The old Castle of Damascus — The Walls of Damascus — The Wed ding Procession to the Bath — Arabian Nights — Mosques of Da mascus — Damascene Fever— Ophthalmia — The Population of Da mascus—Grottoes in the Mountains ...... 3C8

Chapter XIV

The History of Damascus — Its Antiquity — Its Revolutions — The Saracenic Invasion — The Fall of Bosra— The Siege of Damascus — The Prowess of Caled — The Siege raised — The Sally of Peter and Paul— The Heroism of the Saracen Women— The Valour of Derar The Ambuscade — The Battle of Aiznadin — Reinvestment of Da mascus — Thomas of Damascus — The Saracen Widow— The Sur render of Damascus to Abu Obeidah — The Assault by Caled — The Dispute— Capture of the City— The Damascene Fugitives-- Jonas and Eudocia— The Damascene Lover— Pursuit of the Fugitives — Death of Eudocia Slaughter of the Fugitives— Fate of Jonas — Saracenic Enthusiasm ......... 392

Chapter XV

The Caliphs of Damascus— Moawyah, First Caliph of Damascus Xhe Caliph Yezid— His Slaughter of Hosein the Schehadat — Mo awyah Ben Yezid — The Caliph Valid — Soliman Ben Abdalmalek — The Caliph Omar — His Goodness — His Murder— Yezid Ben Ad dalmalek — His beautiful Concubines — Haschem Ben Abdalmalek — CONTENTS OF VOL. II. X Page Yezid Ben Valid Ben Abdalmalek— The Caliph Mervan—De struction of the Ommiades — Massacre at Damascus — Elevation of the Abassides to the Caliphate— Removal of the Caliphate to Bagdad — Conquest of Damascus by the Turcomans — The Sultan Noureddin— His Justice— The Sultan Saladin— His Death at Da mascus — Destruction of Damascus by Timour Beg — Fanaticism of the Damascenes— Capture of Damascus by Ibrahim Pasha — Esta blishment of a British Consul 429

Chapter XVI

Past and present State of Syria — Its former Wealth, Power, and Opulence — The present Desolation and Impoverishment— Causes of its Decline— The numerous Wars — The Successive Conquests — The Violence and Rapine of the Conquerors — Saracens and Turks, Military Adventurers— State of Syria under the Sultans of Con stantinople — How affected by Mohammed Ali's Conquest — Causes of Ibrahim Pasha's Success — Ibrahim Pasha's Addresses to the People — Their sanguine Expectations of Protection from the new Govern ment — How disappointed — The Ambition of Mohammed Ali — His loveofWar — His want of Soldiers— The Conscriptions in Syria — The Insurrections — The Population disarmed by Ibrahim Pasha — Account of the late Events in Syria— Renewed Conscriptions to supply Soldiers for the War in the Hedjaz — Exactions on the People — Heavy Taxation — Effect of Mohammed Ali's Government on the Country — Its present Tranquillity — How secured — The present State of the Country — Its continued gradual Decline — The Beirout Merchant's written Statement of the Effect of Ibrahim Pasha's Rule — The increased Taxation — The vast Drain on the Po pulation for Soldiers — The arbitrary Acts of the Government — The Monopolies — The present State of Commerce— The enormous Expenditure of the Government — The Insecurity of the Pasha's Position — The Necessity of a large Military Establishment — The Country sacrificed to the Ambition of its Rulers — The Effect of the late Measures— The Insecurity of Person and Property — The De struction of Industry A JOURNEY TO THE EAST.

ERRATA. Vol. II. Page 5, line 2, for " were " read " was." 184, Latin quotation, for "perellis" read "puellis." 287, line 5, for " strikes " read " strike." 341, line 17, for " eastern " read " western." 402, line 0, for "were" read " was." A JOURNEY, etc., etc.

Chapter I. Coast Of Syria

MOUNT LEBANON. BEIROUT. LAZA RETTO. GREEK AND DRUSE WOMEN. EMIR BESHIIt — DIS ARMING THE DRUSES. — DEIR EL KAMMAR. IBRAHIM TASHA. ESIIRS' CASTLE AND COURT. DRUSES. MARON ITES. — METUALIES. " Libanus frondosa cacumina turget." RUFUS AVIENUS. 1835. Seft. 19th, six, a.m. — I was called to come on deck, as we were in sight of land, and looking along the water, I exclaimed, where f You are looking too low, said the captain, smiling, and lift ing his hand into the heavens, he bade me mark the pointed summits of Mount Lebanon towering above the distant blue haze, and appearing of gi gantic altitude. It was the grandest scene ima- VOL. II. b MOUNT LEBANON. — BEIROUT. ginable ; the bases of the mountains were invisible, nougu but the blue peaks and waving ridges could be seen towering aloft, behind which the sun was rising in a flood of splendour.

Ten, a.m. — We are nearing the shore rapidly, and can observe the trees along the sloping sides of the range of Lebanon with the telescope; — very hot, and a dead calm. Eleven, a.m. — Close alongside the mountains ; there appear to be some magnificent firs on the summit, groves of trees, and a little village, seated on one of the loftiest ridges. At twelve o'clock we cast anchor in the bay of Beirout, in front of a long promontory rising gra dually from the water, covered with a luxuriant vegetation, above which rose the minarets and towers of the town, surrounded by gardens and groves of mulberry trees. A boat with a guard putting off from the shore, informed us we were in quarantine, and forbad any of us to land. Three, p.m. — The Pasha's aide-du-camp has come off with the pleasing intelligence that we have been condemned to pass seven days' quarantine, as we have come from places lately infected with the plague.

Five, p.m. — We rowed in a boat to the Laza retto, situated on a lofty rocky promontory, con- LAZARETTO. 3 sisting of inclosures, and stone buildings lately erected by Ibrahim Pasha. We chose two rooms en suite, opening upon a fenced court, with earthen floors and mere bare walls. Just after sunset a rich crimson glow gradually spread over the whole western horizon, against which, in strong relief, about two miles distant, appeared the sombre towers of the castle and the masts and rigging of the ships at anchor, while two long rays or pyramidal columns of light, tinged with the faintest purple, shot upwards nearly to the zenith. Sept. 20th. — We had a glorious sunrise, and several of us jumped off the paddle-box into the sea, not without some apprehension, on my part, of the sharks. Three, p.m. — We took our last dinner on board and bade adieu to some of our old friends, who were going on to Alexandria and to the sandy deserts of Egypt.

At sunset we proceeded to take up our quarters at the Lazaretto. There was a heavy swell and we missed our way. After rowing among breakers and rocks for some time, with the white foam glistening around us, we arrived at the landing-place, and after a parley with the guards about the lateness of the hour, were allowed to land, surrounded by officers with sticks, who, with loud shouts, warned us from B LAZARETTO. touching the infected merchandize that was piled up on either hand. We mustered eight English men, besides servants, a large and formidable party for exploring the country. On arriving at the Lazaretto, we found a cheerful fire blazing in our court, and the servants busily prepared in cooking suppers. Our carpets were spread on the ground, our travelling beds laid down on them, musquitto curtains unpacked, trunks arranged for seats, and in an hour the bare miserable rooms were made to assume a great air of domesticity and comfort.

Sept. 21st, seven, a.m. — We plunged from the rocks into the sea, which was clear as crystal, and filled with large fish. The Lazaretto commands the most glorious scenery ; to the west we see the minarets, the towers, the gardens, and mulberry groves of Beirout rising over the waters ; to the north the wide expanse of the Mediterranean ; and to the east the lofty and picturesque chain of Le banon. There is a large circuit of ground attached to it, and those who cannot afford to pay for rooms are obliged to pitch tents. Sept. 23d. — We had a glorious scene this morning at sunrise ; the summits of the rano-e of Lebanon were wreathed round with snow white morning mists, above which, here and there, a A WILD TURK. 5 blue peak appeared, while the vast range of mountains were throw n back in deep shade ; and on the opposite side the sunbeams sparkled on the waters, and shone on the minarets, castle, and houses of the town.

In the course of the morning we received a visit from the captain of the steamer and the rest of our friends on board, who deter mined to wait and take pratique, finding that if they do not, they will not be allowed to land at any of the other ports. A young wild Turk, who came into quarantine with us, and remained in a corner of our court yard, often amused himself with firing a brace of im mense pistols, and as the boat containing the captain and our friends pulled past the rocks, he discharged a pistol containing four balls directly at them, and one ball, passing through the whole party in the boat, lodged in the stern sheets, just between the captain's legs, who was steering. Our party immediately assembled, and in great indignation demanded that punishment should lie inflicted on the body of the offender according to the laws of the country.

Here, however, a great difficulty oc curred ; for the impudent rogue being in quarantine, none durst touch him except those of our party who had the same length of quarantine to pass that he had. Under these circumstances, we wcr GREEK AND DRUSE WOMEN. obliged to content ourselves with ejecting him from our quarter, with abusive epithets, sticks, and stones, &c. Sept. 24th. — Bathed as usual. Several Greek and Druse women, dressed in a costume similar to the indoor costume of the Turkish ladies, came to pray at a little Greek church on the confines of our ground of exercise. They had wide flowing trousers of a rich figured pattern, loose robes trailing behind, with the vest open at the bosom, loose sleeves lapping down, richly embroidered, a shawl wound round their waists, and long hair hanging down their backs nearly to their heels.

There were some very pretty young girls among them ; they had veils, but as they were left to fall back over their shoulders, and no attempt was made to conceal their faces, we had a good oppor tunity of studying their countenances. Near the Lazaretto is shewn a small mosque, where it is said St. George killed the dragon ; likewise a stain on the plaster of the wall made by the soap-suds wherewith the saint washed his hands after the victory ! The Christians make St. George contem porary with Mahomet, and a dispute once occurring on the subject, the affirmative parties asked their opponents if they would be convinced by a mi racle. The reply being favourable, a gentleman LAZARETTO. 7 of Beirout went in the night and buried a goat's skin full of water on the spot, but the pigs came and rooted it up, and the next morning, when a large concourse assembled to witness the experi ment, the trick was exposed, to the horror of the affirmatives, and the opposite party immediately claimed the victory.

Sept. 25th. — News have just arrived from Bei rout, that the soldiers have all marched off" to the mountains to reinforce Ibrahim Pasha, who fears an insurrection of the Druses. We are to go out of quarantine to-morrow, and the doctor has just been to look at us ; he made us stand in a row about three feet from him, and put out our tongues for him to examine. The weather is heavenly, and the nights are most lovely; we are obliged to get under cover during the middle of the day, and creep under our musquitto nets to escape the flies, which are troublesome, but the mornings and evenings are delicious. Upon a wicker bench that has been placed in front of our court-yard, we sit and watch the bright sun sinking into the glowing waters of the Mediterranean, and the stars as they successively rise from behind the eastern moun tains, or disappear in the dusky bank of fog that gradually gathers along the western horizon.

BEIROUT. What a deep silence and settled tranquillity reign always along sea and shore, and what a balmy softness pervades the air ! Sept. 26th. — Left the quarantine early in the morning, and walked to Beirout along the sea shore, through luxuriant hedges of the cactus or Indian fig, and amid gardens riant in the beauties of eastern vegetation, and shaded by trees of pe culiar foliage ; — wild flowers in places decked the banks, and on each side of the road were seen the beautiful blossoms of the squill plant, used in England for colds. We entered the town through a narrow arched gateway guarded by Egyptian soldiers, and wandered through crowded bazaars to a very tolerable inn kept by an Italian. Beirout is for its size superior in point of architecture to the Turkish towns I have seen ; the streets are much cleaner, and are not encumbered with the pools of filth usually met with in them.

The principal houses are built of stone, something similar to Rhodes. In the evening we went up to the palace of Suleiman Pasha, a French colonel of Napoleon's army, an exile from his country. He has abjured his religion and turned Mussul man, and has obtained the pashalik of Beirout, having been for some time an efficient officer in Ibrahim Pasha's army. The scenery from this spot ANTIQUITIES. 9 and from all the eminences around, is most lovely. The undulating ground covered with green mul berry-trees slopes down to the sea, and across a wide gulph is seen the lofty range of Lebanon, the two highest points of which have exactly the appearance of snow-mountains, — I suppose from the colour of the soil at the summit. At sunset the most beautiful purple tint was spread along the whole chain.

Near this spot two antient mosaic pavements have been lately discovered and barbarously de stroyed by the European consuls, who attempted to remove them ; some of the fragments which I saw, appeared similar to the mosaics of Pompeii. There have also lately been found in this neigh bourhood some fine sarcophagi and some valuable coins and gems. Close to the Pasha's castle are ruins of a substantial wall, supposed to be of the time of Herod the Great, and some small frag ments of shattered columns may be seen scattered about on the hill, — remnants of the antient Bery tus. Very few women are to be seen in the streets, which have a very dull appearance from the gloomy stone houses of which they are formed, and from the scarcity of shops. There are a great many Franks to be seen, missionaries, and mer chants; and the sight of round hats and short BEIROUT.

CEMETERY. coats always sadly destroys the oriental charac ter of a place. Sept. 27th. — Outside the gates, close to our hotel, is a large burying-ground, running along the cliffs that overhang the sea ; a most lovely spot, commanding a fine view of the town, its rich environs, the wide expanse of water, and the long line of mountains. In the centre stands a large dark sombre tree, and some solitary females may gene rally be seen hanging over a tomb, or placing sprigs of myrtle and flowers on the graves. On one stands a little pot of myrtle, and in the marble covering of another are small holes grooved, in which are placed evergreen plants and sweet smelling flowers. Here the Moslem women re sort on Fridays, the day of their sabbath, and seat themselves on the graves of their husbands and relations, bringing with them these interesting offerings, and keeping alive the remembrance of a long-cherished affection.

We went to see the manufactory of silk sashes, which are much esteemed, and are exported to different parts of the east. They are worn round the waist and are a great support to the loins in these hot enervating climates. In the evening, we walked by different winding footpaths throuoti the mulberry-groves that encircle Beirout, these MULBERRY GROVES. FOUNTAIN. 11 are all young and not more than ten or eleven feet high, being constantly cut down, as the tender and juicy leaves on the young twigs afford the best nourishment to the young silk worms ; numerous houses are scattered through the grove, at the doors of which were women spinning, and fine children with long braided hair were playing among the trees. By the side of the fountain were crowds of girls with their water-pitchers on their heads, and men with donkeys loaded with skins, waiting to fill them with the precious element.

A fine fountain or well is indeed a treasure in these hot thirsty countries; it is usually made a pleasant place of resort, where the wo men lay aside their general reserve, and letting slip the veil from their faces, laugh and talk with out restraint ; while the men, softened by the sociability of the moment, puff clouds of smoke from their pipes, and civilly salute the Frank traveller as he passes. We continued onwards through a labyrinth of paths intersecting each other, through lanes bordered by enormous cactuses bending over and forming a canopy above, and arriving on the summit of the hills, we looked over a rich screen of foliage, on the deep blue sea, and on the BEIROUT. — DRUSE WOMEN. 12 glorious view that spreads around in every direc tion. We returned through a large open space planted with trees, outside the walls, filled with picturesque groups.

There were men in white turbans and gay scarlet dresses smoking under the trees ; women wrapped up in embroidered muslin veils, and some with their features con cealed in a sort of long bag, hanging from the face down to the girdle. The Druse women are the most striking, as they have a long silver horn projecting from the forehead, from a foot and a half to two feet in length, supporting a veil that falls down on each side of the face. We passed some ruined arches and a picturesque Saracenic tower. Sept. 28th. — This morning we received a visit from Suleiman Pasha's aide-du-camp, who brings us the news of Ibrahim Pasha's sudden and un expected arrival at Deir el Kammar, the capital of the Druse country in the vicinity of Beirout, for the purpose of disarming the Druse and Christian population of the mountains, under the jurisdiction of the Emir Beshir, at Bteddin.

The Emir Beshir is of an old Arab family, which has for some time past reigned over the mountain population of Lebanon. He possesses THE EMIR BESHIR. 13 great influence over the Druses, and has frequently, from the number of armed mountaineers that he can bring into the field, rendered himself nearly independent. At a distance from the central government, his friendship has been sought by rival Pashas. On the breaking out of the war between the Sultan and Mohammed Ali, he was induced from policy to join himself to the winning party, yet his con duct has always been doubtful, and he has been considered to have a leaning towards the Sultan. Soon after Ibrahim Pasha had established him self in Syria, to render his authority more secure, and to repress the lawless disposition of the peo ple, which indisposed them to settled government, he caused the whole Syrian population to be disarmed, and forbad weapons of any kind to be carried about the person.