XXVII. EARTHQUAKES AND THEIR EFFECTS
Earthquakes and their effects--Deficiency of ancient accounts--Ordinary atmospheric phenomena--Changes produced by earthquakes in modern times considered in chronological order--Earthquake in Syria, 1837--Earthquakes in Chili in 1837 and 1835--Isle of Santa Maria raised ten feet--Chili, 1822--Extent of country elevated--Aleppo and Ionian Isles--Earthquake of Cutch in 1819--Subsidence in the Delta of the Indus--Island of Sumbawa in 1815--Earthquake of Caraccas in 1812--Shocks at New Madrid in 1811 in the valley of the Mississippi--Aleutian Islands in 1806--Reflections on the earthquakes of the nineteenth century--Earthquake in Quito, Quebec, &c.--Java, 1786--Sinking down of large tracts.
In the sketch before given of the geographical boundaries of volcanic regions, I stated, that although the points of eruption are but thinly scattered, constituting mere spots on the surface of those vast districts, yet the subterranean movements extend simultaneously over immense areas. We may now proceed to consider the changes which these movements produce on the surface, and in the internal structure of the earth's crust.
Deficiency of ancient accounts.--It is only within the last century and a half, since Hooke first promulgated, in 1688, his views respecting the connection between geological phenomena and earthquakes, that the permanent changes affected by these convulsions have excited attention. Before that time, the narrative of the historian was almost exclusively confined to the number of human beings who perished, the number of cities laid in ruins, the value of property destroyed, or certain atmospheric appearances which dazzled or terrified the observers. The creation of a new lake, the engulfing of a new city, or the raising of a new island, are sometimes, it is true, adverted to, as being too obvious, or of too much geographical or political interest to be passed over in silence. But no researches were made expressly with a view of ascertaining the amount of depression or elevation of the ground, or any particular alterations in the relative position of sea and land; and very little distinction was made between the raising of soil by volcanic ejections, and the upheaving of it by forces acting from below. The same remark applies to a very large proportion of modern accounts: and how much reason we have to regret this deficiency of information appears from this, that in every instance where a spirit of scientific inquiry has animated the eye-witnesses of these events, facts calculated to throw light on former modifications of the earth's structure are recorded.
Phenomena attending earthquakes.--As I shall confine myself almost entirely, in the following notice of earthquakes, to the changes brought about by them in the configuration of the earth's crust, I may mention, generally, some accompaniments of these terrible events which are almost uniformly commemorated in history, that it may be unnecessary to advert to them again. Irregularities in the seasons preceding or following the shocks; sudden gusts of wind, interrupted by dead calms; violent rains at unusual seasons, or in countries where such phenomena are almost unknown; a reddening of the sun's disk, and a haziness in the air, often continued for months; an evolution of electric matter, or of inflammable gas from the soil, with sulphurous and mephitic vapors; noises underground, like the running of carriages, or the discharge of artillery, or distant thunder; animals uttering cries of distress, and evincing extraordinary alarm, being more sensitive than men of the slightest movement; a sensation like sea-sickness, and a dizziness in the head, experienced by men:--these, and other phenomena, less connected with our present subject as geologists, have recurred again and again at distant ages, and in all parts of the globe.
I shall now begin the enumeration of earthquakes with the latest authentic narratives, and so carry back the survey retrospectively, that I may bring before the reader, in the first place, the minute and circumstantial details of modern times, and thus enable him, by observing the extraordinary amount of change within the last 150 years, to perceive how great must be the deficiency in the meager annals of earlier eras.
EARTHQUAKES OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY.[622]
Syria, January, 1837.--It has been remarked that earthquakes affect elongated areas. The violent shock which devastated Syria in 1837 was felt on a line 500 miles in length by 90 in breadth:[623] more than 6000 persons perished; deep rents were caused in solid rocks, and new hot springs burst out at Tabereah.
Chili--Valdivia, 1837.--One of the latest earthquakes by which the position of solid land is known to have been permanently altered is that which occurred in Chili, on November 7th, 1837. On that day Valdivia was destroyed by an earthquake, and a whaler, commanded by Captain Coste, was violently shaken at sea, and lost her masts, in lat. 43° 38' S. in sight of the land. The captain went on the 11th of December following to a spot near the island of Lemus, one of the Chonos archipelago, where he had anchored two years before, and found that the bottom of the sea had been raised more than eight feet. Some rocks formerly covered at all times by the sea were now constantly exposed, and an enormous quantity of shells and fish in a decaying state, which had been thrown there by the waves, or suddenly laid dry during the earthquake, attested the recent date of the occurrence. The whole coast was strewed with uprooted trees.[624]
Chili--Conception, 1835.--Fortunately we have a still more detailed account of the geographical changes produced in the same country on the 20th of February, 1835. An earthquake was then felt at all places between Copiapo and Chiloe, from north to south, and from Mendoza to Juan Fernandez, from east to west. "Vessels," says Mr. Caldcleugh, "navigating the Pacific, within 100 miles of the coast, experienced the shock with considerable force."[625] Conception, Talcahuano, Chillan, and other towns were thrown down. From the account of Captain Fitz Roy, R. N., who was then employed in surveying the coast, we learn that after the shock the sea retired in the Bay of Conception, and the vessels grounded, even those which had been lying in seven fathoms water: all the shoals were visible, and soon afterwards a wave rushed in and then retreated, and was followed by two other waves. The vertical height of these waves does not appear to have been much greater than from sixteen to twenty feet, although they rose to much greater heights when they broke upon a sloping beach.
According to Mr. Caldcleugh and Mr. Darwin, the whole volcanic chain of the Chilian Andes, a range 150 miles in length, was in a state of unusual activity, both during the shocks and for some time preceding and after the convulsion, and lava was seen to flow from the crater of Osorno. (See Map, fig. 69.) The island of Juan Fernandez, distant 365 geographical miles from Chili, was violently shaken at the same time, and devastated by a great wave. A submarine volcano broke out there near Bacalao Head, about a mile from the shore, in sixty-nine fathoms water, and illumined the whole island during the night.[626]
"At Conception," says Captain Fitz Roy, "the earth opened and closed rapidly in numerous places. The direction of the cracks was not uniform, though generally from southeast to northwest. The earth was not quiet for three days after the great shock, and more than 300 shocks were counted between the 20th February and the 4th of March. The loose earth of the valley of the Biobio was everywhere parted from the solid rocks which bound the plain, there being an opening between them from an inch to a foot in width.
"For some days after the 20th of February, the sea at Talcahuano," says Captain Fitz Roy, "did not rise to the usual marks by four or five feet vertically. When walking on the shore, even at high water, beds of dead mussels, numerous chitons, and limpets, and withered seaweed, still adhering, though lifeless, to the rocks on which they had lived, everywhere met the eye." But this difference in the relative level of the land and sea gradually diminished, till in the middle of April the water rose again to within two feet of the former high-water mark. It might be supposed that these changes of level merely indicated a temporary disturbance in the set of the currents or in the height of the tides at Talcahuano; but, on considering what occurred in the neighboring island of Santa Maria, Captain Fitz Roy concluded that the land had been raised four or five feet in February, and that it had returned in April to within two or three feet of its former level.
Santa Maria, the island just alluded to, is about seven miles long and two broad, and about twenty-five miles southwest of Conception. (See Map, fig. 70.) The phenomena observed there are most important. "It appeared," says Captain Fitz Roy, who visited Santa Maria twice, the first time at the end of March, and afterwards in the beginning of April, "that the southern extremity of the island had been raised eight feet, the middle nine, and the northern end upwards of ten feet. On steep rocks, where vertical measures could be correctly taken, beds of dead mussels were found ten feet above high-water mark. One foot lower than the highest bed of mussels, a few limpets and chitons were seen adhering to the rock where they had grown. Two feet lower than the same, dead mussels, chitons, and limpets were abundant.
"An extensive rocky flat lies around the northern parts of Santa Maria. Before the earthquake this flat was covered by the sea, some projecting rocks only showing themselves. Now, the whole flat is exposed, and square acres of it are covered with dead shell-fish, the stench arising from which is abominable. By this elevation of the land the southern port of Santa Maria has been almost destroyed; little shelter remaining there, and very bad landing." The surrounding sea is also stated to have become shallower in exactly the same proportion as the land had risen; the soundings having diminished a fathom and a half everywhere around the island.
At Tubal, also, to the southeast of Santa Maria, the land was raised six feet, at Mocha two feet, but no elevation could be ascertained at Valdivia.
Among other effects of the catastrophe, it is stated that cattle standing on a steep slope, near the shore, were rolled down into the sea, and many others were washed off by the great wave from low land and drowned.[627]
In November of the same year (1835), Conception was shaken by a severe earthquake, and on the same day Osorno, at the distance of 400 miles, renewed its activity. These facts prove not only the connection of earthquakes with volcanic eruptions in this region, but also the vast extent of the subterranean areas over which the disturbing cause acts simultaneously.
Ischia, 1828.--On the 2d of February the whole island of Ischia was shaken by an earthquake, and in the October following I found all the houses in Casamicciol still without their roofs. On the sides of a ravine between that town and Forio, I saw masses of greenish tuff which had been thrown down. The hot-spring of Rita, which was nearest the centre of the movement, was ascertained by M. Covelli to have increased in temperature, showing, as he observes, that the explosion took place below the reservoirs which heat the thermal waters.[628]
Bogota, 1827.--On the 16th of November, 1827, the plain of Bogota, in New Granada, or Colombia, was convulsed by an earthquake, and a great number of towns were thrown down. Torrents of rain swelled the Magdalena, sweeping along vast quantities of mud and other substances, which emitted a sulphurous vapor and destroyed the fish. Popayan, which is distant 200 geographical miles S. S. W. of Bogota, suffered greatly. Wide crevices appeared in the road of Guanacas, leaving no doubt that the whole of the Cordilleras sustained a powerful shock. Other fissures opened near Costa, in the plains of Bogota, into which the river Tunza immediately began to flow.[629] It is worthy of remark, that in all such cases the ancient gravel bed of a river is deserted and a new one formed at a lower level; so that a want of relation in the position of alluvial beds of the existing water-courses may be no test of the high antiquity of such deposits, at least in countries habitually convulsed by earthquakes. Extraordinary rains accompanied the shocks before mentioned; and two volcanoes are said to have been in eruption in the mountain-chain nearest to Bogota.
Chili, 1822.--On the 19th of November, 1822, the coast of Chili was visited by a most destructive earthquake. The shock was felt simultaneously throughout a space of 1200 miles from north to south. St. Jago, Valparaiso, and some other places, were greatly injured. When the district round Valparaiso was examined on the morning after the shock, it was found that the coast for a considerable distance was raised above its former level.[630] At Valparaiso the elevation was three feet, and at Quintero about four feet. Part of the bed of the sea, says Mrs. Graham, remained bare and dry at high water, "with beds of oysters, mussels, and other shells adhering to the rocks on which they grew, the fish being all dead, and exhaling most offensive effluvia.[631]
An old wreck of a ship, which before could not be approached, became accessible from the land, although its distance from the original sea-shore had not altered. It was observed that the water-course of a mill, at the distance of about a mile from the sea, gained a fall of fourteen inches, in little more than one hundred yards; and from this fact it is inferred that the rise in some parts of the inland country was far more considerable than on the borders of the ocean.[632] Part of the coast thus elevated consisted of granite, in which parallel fissures were caused, some of which were traced for a mile and a half inland. Cones of earth about four feet high were thrown up in several districts, by the forcing up of water mixed with sand through funnel-shaped hollows,--a phenomenon very common in Calabria, and the explanation of which will hereafter be considered. Those houses in Chili of which the foundations were on rock were less damaged than such as were built on alluvial soil.
Mr. Cruickshanks, an English botanist, who resided in the country during the earthquake, has informed me that some rocks of greenstone at Quintero, a few hundred yards from the beach, which had always been under water till the shock of 1822, have since been uncovered when the tide is at half-ebb: and he states that, after the earthquake, it was the general belief of the fishermen and inhabitants of the Chilian coast, not that the land had risen, but that the ocean had permanently retreated.
Dr. Meyen, a Prussian traveller, who visited Valparaiso in 1831, says that on examining the rocks both north and south of the town, nine years after the event, he found, in corroboration of Mrs. Graham's account, that remains of animals and sea-weed, the Lessonia of Bory de St. Vincent, which has a firm ligneous stem, still adhered to those rocks which in 1822 had been elevated above high-water mark.[633] According to the same author, the whole coast of Central Chili was raised about four feet, and banks of marine shells were laid dry on many parts of the coast. He observed similar banks, elevated at unknown periods, in several places, especially at Copiapo, where the species all agree with those now living in the ocean. Mr. Freyer also, who resided some years in South America, has confirmed these statements;[634] and Mr. Darwin obtained evidence that the remains of an ancient wall, formerly washed by the sea, and now 11½ feet above high-water mark, acquired several feet of this additional elevation during the earthquake of 1822.[635]
The shocks continued up to the end of September, 1823; even then, forty-eight hours seldom passed without one, and sometimes two or three were felt during twenty-four hours. Mrs. Graham observed, after the earthquake of 1822, that besides a beach newly raised above high-water mark, there were several older elevated lines of beach, one above the other, consisting of shingle mixed with shells extending in a parallel direction to the shore, to the height of fifty feet above the sea.[636]
Extent of country elevated.--By some observers it has been supposed that the whole country from the foot of the Andes to a great distance under the sea was upraised in 1822, the greatest rise being at the distance of about two miles from the shore. "The rise upon the coast was from two to four feet:--at the distance of a mile inland it must have been from five to six or seven feet."[637] It has also been conjectured by the same eye-witnesses to the convulsion, that the area over which this permanent alteration of level extended may have been equal to 100,000 square miles. Although the increased fall of certain water-courses may have afforded some ground for this conjecture, it must be considered as very hypothetical, and the estimate may have exceeded or greatly fallen short of the truth. It may nevertheless be useful to reflect on the enormous amount of change which this single convulsion occasioned, if the extent of country moved upward really amounted to 100,000 square miles,--an extent just equal to half the area of France, or about five-sixths of the area of Great Britain and Ireland. If we suppose the elevation to have been only three feet on an average, it will be seen that the mass of rock added to the continent of America by the movement, or, in other words, the mass previously below the level of the sea, and after the shocks permanently above it, must have contained fifty-seven cubic miles in bulk; which would be sufficient to form a conical mountain two miles high (or about as high as Etna), with a circumference at the base of nearly thirty-three miles. We may take the mean specific gravity of the rock at 2·655,--a fair average, and a convenient one in such computations, because at such a rate a cubic yard weighs two tons. Then, assuming the great pyramid of Egypt, if solid, to weigh, in accordance with an estimate before given, six million tons, we may state the rock added to the continent by the Chilian earthquake to have more than equalled 100,000 pyramids.
But it must always be borne in mind that the weight of rock here alluded to constituted but an insignificant part of the whole amount which the volcanic forces had to overcome. The whole thickness of rock between the surface of Chili and the subterranean foci of volcanic action may be many miles or leagues deep. Say that the thickness was only two miles, even then the mass which changed place and rose three feet being 200,000 cubic miles in volume, must have exceeded in weight 363 million pyramids.
It may be instructing to consider these results in connection with others already obtained from a different source, and to compare the working of two antagonistic forces--the levelling power of running water, and the expansive energy of subterranean heat. How long, it may be asked, would the Ganges require, according to data before explained (p. 283), to transport to the sea a quantity of solid matter equal to that which may have been added to the land by the Chilian earthquake? The discharge of mud in one year by the Ganges was estimated at 20,000 million cubic feet. According to that estimate it would require about four centuries (or 418 years) before the river could bear down from the continent into the sea a mass equal to that gained by the Chilian earthquake. In about half that time, perhaps, the united waters of the Ganges and Burrampooter might accomplish the operation.
Cutch, 1819.--A violent earthquake occurred at Cutch, in the delta of the Indus, on the 16th of June, 1819. (See Map, fig. 71.) The principal town, Bhooj, was converted into a heap of ruins, and its stone buildings were thrown down. The movement was felt over an area having a radius of 1000 miles from Bhooj, and extending to Kbatmandoo, Calcutta, and Pondicherry.[638] The vibrations were felt in Northwest India, at a distance of 800 miles, after an interval of about fifteen minutes after the earthquake at Bhooj. At Ahmedabad the great mosque, erected by Sultan Ahmed nearly 450 years before, fell to the ground, attesting how long a period had elapsed since a shock of similar violence had visited that point. At Anjar, the fort, with its tower and guns, was hurled to the ground in one common mass of ruin. The shocks continued until the 20th; when, thirty miles northwest from Bhooj, the volcano called Denodur is said by some to have sent forth flames, but Capt. Grant was unable to authenticate this statement.
Subsidence in the delta of the Indus.--Although the ruin of towns was great, the face of nature in the inland country, says Captain Macmurdo, was not visibly altered. In the hills some large masses only of rock and soil were detached from the precipices; but the eastern and almost deserted channel of the Indus, which bounds the province of Cutch, was greatly changed. This estuary, or inlet of the sea, was, before the earthquake, fordable at Luckput, being only about a foot deep when the tide was at ebb, and at flood-tide never more than six feet; but it was deepened at the fort of Luckput, after the shock, to more than eighteen feet at low water.[639] On sounding other parts of the channel, it was found, that where previously the depth of the water at flood never exceeded one or two feet, it had become from four to ten feet deep. By these and other remarkable changes of level, a part of the inland navigation of that country, which had been closed for centuries, became again practicable.
Fort and village submerged.[640]--The fort and village of Sindree, on the eastern arm of the Indus, above Luckput, are stated by the same writer to have been overflowed; and, after the shock, the tops of the houses and wall were alone to be seen above the water, for the houses, although submerged, were not cast down. Had they been situated, therefore, in the interior, where so many forts were levelled to the ground, their site would, perhaps, have been regarded as having remained comparatively unmoved. Hence we may suspect that great permanent upheavings and depressions of soil may be the result of earthquakes, without the inhabitants being in the least degree conscious of any change of level.
A more recent survey of Cutch, by Sir A. Burnes, who was not in communication with Capt. Macmurdo, confirms the facts above enumerated, and adds many important details.[641] That officer examined the delta of the Indus in 1826 and 1828, and from his account it appears that, when Sindree subsided in June, 1819, the sea flowed in by the eastern mouth of the Indus, and in a few hours converted a tract of land, 2000 square miles in area, into an inland sea, or lagoon. Neither the rush of the sea into this new depression, nor the movement of the earthquake, threw down entirely the small fort of Sindree, one of the four towers, the northwestern, still continuing to stand; and, the day after the earthquake, the inhabitants who had ascended to the top of this tower, saved themselves in boats.[642]
Elevation of the Ullah Bund.--Immediately after the shock, the inhabitants of Sindree saw, at the distance of five miles and a half from their village, a long elevated mound, where previously there had been a low and perfectly level plain. (See Map, fig. 71.) To this uplifted tract they gave the name of "Ullah Bund," or the "Mound of God," to distinguish it from several artificial dams previously thrown across the eastern arm of the Indus.
Extent of country raised.--It has been ascertained that this new-raised country is upwards of fifty miles in length from east to west, running parallel to that line of subsidence before mentioned, which caused the grounds around Sindree to be flooded. The range of this elevation extends from Puchum Island towards Gharee; its breadth from north to south is conjectured to be in some parts sixteen miles, and its greatest ascertained height above the original level of the delta is ten feet,--an elevation which appears to the eye to be very uniform throughout.
For several years after the convulsion of 1819, the course of the Indus was very unsettled, and at length, in 1826, the river threw a vast body of water into its eastern arm, that called the Phurraun, above Sindree; and forcing its way in a more direct course to the sea, burst through all the artificial dams which had been thrown across its channel, and at length cut right through the "Ullah Bund," whereby a natural section was obtained. In the perpendicular cliffs thus laid open Sir A. Burnes found that the upraised lands consisted of clay filled with shells. The new channel of the river where it intersected the "bund" was eighteen feet deep, and forty yards in width; but in 1828 the channel was still farther enlarged. The Indus, when it first opened this new passage, threw such a body of water into the new mere, or salt lagoon, of Sindree, that it became fresh for many months; but it had recovered its saltness in 1828, when the supply of river-water was less copious, and finally it became more salt than the sea, in consequence, as the natives suggested to Sir A. Burnes, of the saline particles with which the "Runn of Cutch" is impregnated.
In 1828 Sir A. Burnes went in a boat to the ruins of Sindree, where a single remaining tower was seen in the midst of a wide expanse of sea. The tops of the ruined walls still rose two or three feet above the level of the water; and standing on one of these, he could behold nothing in the horizon but water, except in one direction, where a blue streak of land to the north indicated the Ullah Bund. This scene presents to the imagination a lively picture of the revolutions now in progress on the earth--a waste of waters where a few years before all was land, and the only land visible consisting of ground uplifted by a recent earthquake.
Ten years after the visit of Sir A. Burnes above alluded to, my friend, Captain Grant, F. G. S., of the Bombay Engineers, had the kindness to send at my request a native surveyor to make a plan of Sindree and Ullah Bund, in March, 1838. From his description it appears that, at that season, the driest of the whole year, he found the channel traversing the Bund to be 100 yards wide, without water, and incrusted with salt. He was told that it has now only four or five feet of water in it after rains. The sides or banks were nearly perpendicular, and nine feet in height. The lagoon has diminished both in area and depth, and part near the fort was dry land. The annexed drawing, made by Captain Grant from the surveyor's plan, shows the appearance of the fort in the midst of the lake, as seen in 1838 from the west, or from the same point as that from which Captain Grindlay's sketch (see fig. 72) was taken in 1808, before the earthquake.
The Runn of Cutch is a flat region of a very peculiar character, and no less than 7000 square miles in area: a greater superficial extent than Yorkshire, or about one-fourth the area of Ireland. It is not a desert of moving sand, nor a marsh, but evidently the dried-up bed of an inland sea, which for a great part of every year has a hard and dry bottom uncovered by weeds or grass, and only supporting here and there a few tamarisks. But during the monsoons, when the sea runs high, the salt-water driven up from the Gulf of Cutch and the creeks at Luckput overflows a large part of the Runn, especially after rains, when the soaked ground permits the sea-water to spread rapidly. The Runn is also liable to be overflowed occasionally in some parts by river-water: and it is remarkable that the only portion which was ever highly cultivated (that anciently called Sayra) is now permanently submerged. The surface of the Runn is sometimes incrusted with salt about an inch in depth, in consequence of the evaporation of the sea-water. Islands rise up in some parts of the waste, and the boundary lands form bays and promontories. The natives have various traditions respecting the former separation of Cutch and Sinde by a bay of the sea, and the drying up of the district called the Runn. But these tales, besides the usual uncertainty of oral tradition, are farther obscured by mythological fictions. The conversion of the Runn into land is chiefly ascribed to the miraculous powers of a Hindoo saint, by name Damorath (or Dhoorunnath), who had previously done penance for twelve years on the summit of Denodur hill. Captain Grant infers, on various grounds, that this saint flourished about the eleventh or twelfth century of our era. In proof of the drying up of the Runn, some towns far inland are still pointed out as having once been ancient ports. It has, moreover, been always said that ships were wrecked and engulphed by the great catastrophe; and in the jets of black muddy water thrown out of fissures in that region, in 1819, there were cast up numerous pieces of wrought-iron and ship nails.[643] Cones of sand six or eight feet in height were at the same time thrown up on these lands.[644]
We must not conclude without alluding to a moral phenomenon connected with this tremendous catastrophe, which we regard as highly deserving the attention of geologists. It is stated by Sir A. Burnes, that "these wonderful events passed unheeded by the inhabitants of Cutch;" for the region convulsed, though once fertile, had for a long period been reduced to sterility by want of irrigation, so that the natives were indifferent as to its fate. Now it is to this profound apathy which all but highly civilized nations feel, in regard to physical events not having an immediate influence on their worldly fortunes, that we must ascribe the extraordinary dearth of historical information concerning changes of the earth's surface, which modern observations show to be by no means of rare occurrence in the ordinary course of nature.
Since the above account was written, a description has been published of more recent geographical changes in the district of Cutch, near the mouth of the Koree, or eastern branch of the Indus, which happened in June, 1845. A large area seems to have subsided, and the Sindree lake had become a salt marsh.[645]
Island of Sumbawa, 1815.--In April, 1815, one of the most frightful eruptions recorded in history occurred in the province of Tomboro, in the island of Sumbawa (see Map, fig. 39, p. 351), about 200 miles from the eastern extremity of Java. In April of the year preceding the volcano had been observed in a state of considerable activity, ashes having fallen upon the decks of vessels which sailed past the coast.[646] The eruption of 1815 began on the 5th of April, but was most violent on the 11th and 12th, and did not entirely cease till July. The sound of the explosions was heard in Sumatra, at the distance of 970 geographical miles in a direct line; and at Ternate, in an opposite direction, at the distance of 720 miles. Out of a population of 12,000, in the province of Tomboro, only twenty-six individuals survived. Violent whirlwinds carried up men, horses, cattle, and whatever else came within their influence into the air; tore up the largest trees by the roots, and covered the whole sea with floating timber.[647] Great tracts of land were covered by lava, several streams of which, issuing from the crater of the Tomboro mountain, reached the sea: So heavy was the fall of ashes, that they broke into the Resident's house at Bima, forty miles east of the volcano, and rendered it as well as many other dwellings in the town uninhabitable. On the side of Java the ashes were carried to the distance of 300 miles, and 217 towards Celebes, in sufficient quantity to darken the air. The floating cinders to the westward of Sumatra formed, on the 12th of April, a mass two feet thick, and several miles in extent, through which ships with difficulty forced their way.
The darkness occasioned in the daytime by the ashes in Java was so profound, that nothing equal to it was ever witnessed in the darkest night. Although this volcanic dust when it fell was an impalpable powder, it was of considerable weight when compressed, a pint of it weighing twelve ounces and three quarters. "Some of the finest particles," says Mr. Crawfurd, "were transported to the islands of Amboyna and Banda, which last is about 800 miles east from the site of the volcano, although the southeast monsoon was then at its height." They must have been projected, therefore, into the upper regions of the atmosphere, where a counter-current prevailed.
Along the sea-coast of Sumbawa and the adjacent isles, the sea rose suddenly to the height of from two to twelve feet, a great wave rushing up the estuaries, and then suddenly subsiding. Although the wind at Bima was still during the whole time, the sea rolled in upon the shore, and filled the lower parts of the houses with water a foot deep. Every prow and boat was forced from the anchorage, and driven on shore.
The town called Tomboro, on the west side of Sumbawa, was overflowed by the sea, which encroached upon the shore so that the water remained permanently eighteen feet deep in places where there was land before. Here we may observe, that the amount of subsidence of land was apparent, in spite of the ashes, which would naturally have caused the limits of the coast to be extended.
The area over which tremulous noises and other volcanic effects extended, was 1000 English miles in circumference, including the whole of the Molucca Islands, Java, a considerable portion of Celebes, Sumatra, and Borneo. In the island of Amboyna, in the same month and year, the ground opened, threw out water, and then closed again.[648]
In conclusion, I may remind the reader, that but for the accidental presence of Sir Stamford Raffles, then Governor of Java, we should scarcely have heard in Europe of this tremendous catastrophe. He required all the residents in the various districts under his authority to send in a statement of the circumstances which occurred within their own knowledge; but, valuable as were their communications, they are often calculated to excite rather than to satisfy the curiosity of the geologist. They mention that similar effects, though in a less degree, had, about seven years before, accompanied an eruption of Carang Assam, a volcano in the island of Bali, west of Sumatra; but no particulars of that great catastrophe are recorded.[649]
Caraccas, 1812.--On the 26th of March, 1812, several violent shocks of an earthquake were felt in Caraccas. The surface undulated like a boiling liquid, and terrific sounds were heard underground. The whole city with its splendid churches was in an instant a heap of ruins, under which 10,000 of the inhabitants were buried. On the 5th of April, enormous rocks were detached from the mountains. It was believed that the mountain Silla lost from 300 to 360 feet of its height by subsidence; but this was an opinion not founded on any measurement. On the 27th of April, a volcano in St. Vincent's threw out ashes; and, on the 30th, lava flowed from its crater into the sea, while its explosions were heard at a distance equal to that between Vesuvius and Switzerland, the sound being transmitted, as Humboldt supposes, through the ground. During the earthquake which destroyed Caraccas, an immense quantity of water was thrown out at Valecillo, near Valencia, as also at Porto Cabello, through openings in the earth; and in the Lake Maracaybo the water sank. Humboldt observed that the Cordilleras, composed of gneiss and mica slate, and the country immediately at their feet, were more violently shaken than the plains.[650]
South Carolina and New Madrid, Missouri, 1811-12.--Previous to the destruction of La Guayra and Caraccas, in 1812, earthquakes were felt in South Carolina; and the shocks continued till those cities were destroyed. The valley also of the Mississippi, from the village of New Madrid to the mouth of the Ohio in one direction, and to the St. Francis in another, was convulsed in such a degree as to create new lakes and islands. It has been remarked by Humboldt in his Cosmos, that the earthquake of New Madrid presents one of the few examples on record of the incessant quaking of the ground for several successive months far from any volcano. Flint, the geographer, who visited the country seven years after the event, informs us, that a tract of many miles in extent, near the Little Prairie, became covered with water three or four feet deep; and when the water disappeared a stratum of sand was left in its place. Large lakes of twenty miles in extent were formed in the course of an hour, and others were drained. The grave-yard at New Madrid was precipitated into the bed of the Mississippi; and it is stated that the ground whereon the town is built, and the river-bank for fifteen miles above, sank eight feet below their former level.[651] The neighboring forest presented for some years afterwards "a singular scene of confusion; the trees standing inclined in every direction, and many having their trunks and branches broken."[652]
The inhabitants relate that the earth rose in great undulations; and when these reached a certain fearful height, the soil burst, and vast volumes of water, sand, and pit-coal were discharged as high as the tops of the trees. Flint saw hundreds of these deep chasms remaining in an alluvial soil, seven years after. The people in the country, although inexperienced in such convulsions, had remarked that the chasms in the earth were in a direction from S. W. to N. E.; and they accordingly felled the tallest trees, and laying them at right angles to the chasms, stationed themselves upon them. By this invention, when chasms opened more than once under these trees, several persons were prevented from being swallowed up.[653] At one period during this earthquake, the ground not far below New Madrid swelled up so as to arrest the Mississippi in its course, and to cause a temporary reflux of its waves. The motion of some of the shocks is described as having been horizontal, and of others perpendicular; and the vertical movement is said to have been much less desolating than the horizontal.
The above account has been reprinted exactly as it appeared in former editions of this work, compiled from the authorities which I have cited; but having more recently (March, 1846) had an opportunity myself of visiting the disturbed region of the Mississippi, and conversing with many eye-witnesses of the catastrophe, I am able to confirm the truth of those statements, and to add some remarks on the present face and features of the country. I skirted, as was before related (p. 270), part of the territory immediately west of New Madrid, called "the sunk country," which was for the first time permanently submerged during the earthquake of 1811-12. It is said to extend along the course of the White Water and its tributaries for a distance of between 70 and 80 miles north and south, and 30 miles east and west. I saw on its borders many full-grown trees still standing leafless, the bottoms of their trunks several feet under water, and a still greater number lying prostrate. An active vegetation of aquatic plants is already beginning to fill up some of the shallows, and the sediment washed in by occasional floods when the Mississippi rises to an extraordinary height contributes to convert the sunk region into marsh and forest land. Even on the dry ground along the confines of the submerged area, I observed in some places that all the trees of prior date to 1811 were dead and leafless, though standing erect and entire. They are supposed to have been killed by the loosening of their roots during the repeated undulations which passed through the ground for three months in succession.
Mr. Bringier, an experienced engineer of New Orleans, who was on horseback near New Madrid when some of the severest shocks were experienced, related to me (in 1846), that "as the waves advanced the trees bent down, and the instant afterwards, while recovering their position, they often met those of other trees similarly inclined, so that their branches becoming interlocked, they were prevented from righting themselves again. The transit of the wave through the woods was marked by the crashing noise of countless boughs, first heard on one side and then on the other. At the same time powerful jets of water, mixed with sand, mud, and fragments of coaly matter, were cast up, endangering the lives of both horse and rider."
I was curious, to ascertain whether any vestiges still remained of these fountains of mud and water, and carefully examined between New Madrid and the Little Prairie several "sink holes," as they are termed. They consist of cavities from 10 to 30 yards in width, and 20 feet or more in depth, and are very conspicuous, interrupting the level surface of a flat alluvial plain. I saw abundance of sand, which some of the present inhabitants saw spouting from these deep holes, also fragments of decayed wood and black bituminous shale, probably drifted down at some former period in the main channel of the Mississippi, from the coal-fields farther north. I also found numerous rents in the soil left by the earthquake, some of them still several feet wide, and a yard or two in depth, although the action of rains, frost, and occasional inundations, and especially the leaves of trees blown into them in countless numbers every autumn, have done much to fill them up. I measured the direction of some of the fissures, which usually varied from 10 to 45 degrees W. of north, and were often parallel to each other; I found, however, a considerable diversity in their direction. Many of them are traceable for half a mile and upwards, but they might easily be mistaken for artificial trenches if resident settlers were not there to assure us that within their recollection they were "as deep as wells." Fragments of coaly shale were strewed along the edges of some of these open fissures, together with white sand, in the same manner as round the "sink holes."[654]
Among other monuments of the changes wrought in 1811-12, I explored the bed of the lake called Eulalie, near New Madrid, 300 yards long by 100 yards in width, which was suddenly drained during the earthquake. The parallel fissures by which the waters escaped are not yet entirely closed, and all the trees growing on its bottom were at the time of my visit less than 34 years old. They consisted of cotton-wood, willows, and honey-locust, and other species, differing from those clothing the surrounding higher grounds, which are more elevated by 12 or 15 feet. On them the hickory, the black and white oak, the gum and other trees, many of them of ancient date, were flourishing.
Aleutian Islands, 1806.--In the year 1806, a new island, in the form of a peak, with some low conical hills upon it, is said to have risen from the sea among the Aleutian Islands, east of Kamtschatka. According to Langsdorf,[655] it was four geographical miles in circumference; and Von Buch infers from its magnitude, and from its not having again subsided below the level of the sea, that it did not consist merely of ejected matter, but of a solid rock of trachyte upheaved.[656] Another extraordinary eruption happened in the spring of the year 1814, in the sea near Unalaschka, in the same archipelago. A new isle was then produced of considerable size, and with a peak three thousand feet high, which remained standing for a year afterwards, though with somewhat diminished height.
Although it is not improbable that earthquakes accompanying these tremendous eruptions may have heaved up part of the bed of the sea, yet the circumstance of the islands not having disappeared like Sabrina (see p. 416), may have arisen from the emission of lava. If Jorullo, for example, in 1759, had risen from a shallow sea to the height of 1600 feet, instead of attaining that elevation above the Mexican plateau, the massive current of basaltic lava which poured out from its crater would have enabled it to withstand, for a long period, the action of a turbulent sea.
Reflections on the earthquakes of the nineteenth century.--We are now about to pass on to the events of the eighteenth century; but before we leave the consideration of those already enumerated, let us pause for a moment, and reflect how many remarkable facts of geological interest are afforded by the earthquakes above described, though they constitute but a small part of the convulsions even of the last forty years. New rocks have risen from the waters; new hot springs have burst out, and the temperature of others has been raised; the coast of Chili has been thrice permanently elevated; a considerable tract in the delta of the Indus has sunk down, and some of its shallow channels have become navigable; an adjoining part of the same district, upwards of fifty miles in length and sixteen in breadth, has been raised about ten feet above its former level; part of the great plain of the Mississippi, for a distance of eighty miles in length by thirty in breadth, has sunk down several feet; the town of Tomboro has been submerged, and twelve thousand of the inhabitants of Sumbawa have been destroyed. Yet, with a knowledge of these terrific catastrophes, witnessed during so brief a period by the present generation, will the geologist declare with perfect composure that the earth has at length settled into a state of repose? Will he continue to assert that the changes of relative level of land and sea, so common in former ages of the world, have now ceased? If, in the face of so many striking facts, he persists in maintaining this favorite dogma, it is in vain to hope that, by accumulating the proofs of similar convulsions during a series of antecedent ages, we shall shake his tenacity of purpose:--
Si fractus illabatur orbis Impavidum ferient ruinæ.
EARTHQUAKES OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
Quito, 1797.--On the morning of February 4th, 1797, the volcano of Tunguragua in Quito, and the surrounding district, for forty leagues from south to north, and twenty leagues from west to east, experienced an undulating movement, which lasted four minutes. The same shock was felt over a tract of 170 leagues from south to north, from Piura to Popayan; and 140 from west to east, from the sea to the river Napo. In the smaller district first mentioned, where the movement was more intense, every town was levelled to the ground; and Riobamba, Quero, and other places, were buried under masses detached from the mountains. At the foot of Tunguragua the earth was rent open in several places; and streams of water and fetid mud, called "moya," poured out, overflowing and wasting every thing. In valleys 1000 feet broad, the water of these floods reached to the height of 600 feet; and the mud deposit barred up the course of the river, so as to form lakes, which in some places continued for more than eighty days. Flames and suffocating vapors escaped from the lake Quilotoa, and killed all the cattle on its shores. The shocks continued all February and March; and on the 5th of April they recurred with almost as much violence as at first. We are told that the form of the surface in the district most shaken was entirely altered, but no exact measurements are given whereby we may estimate the degree of elevation or subsidence.[657] Indeed it would be difficult, except in the immediate neighborhood of the sea, to obtain any certain standard of comparison if the levels were really as much altered as the narrations imply.
Cumana, 1797.--In the same year, on the 14th of December, the small Antilles experienced subterranean movements, and four-fifths of the town of Cumana was shaken down by a vertical shock. The form of the shoal of Mornerouge, at the mouth of the river Bourdones, was changed by an upheaving of the ground.[658]
Canada--Quebec, 1791.--We learn from Captain Bayfield's memoirs, that earthquakes are very frequent on the shore of the estuary of the St. Lawrence, of force sufficient at times to split walls and throw down chimneys. Such were the effects experienced in December, 1721, in St. Paul's Bay, about fifty miles N. E. from Quebec; and the inhabitants say, that about every twenty-five years a violent earthquake returns, which lasts forty days. In the History of Canada, it is stated that, in 1663, a tremendous convulsion lasted six months, extending from Quebec to Tadeausac,--a distance of about 130 miles. The ice on the river was broken up, and many landslips caused.[659]
Caraccas, 1790.--In the Caraccas, near where the Caura joins the Orinoco, between the towns San Pedro de Alcantara and San Francisco de Aripao, an earthquake, on St. Matthew's day 1790, caused a sinking in of the granitic soil, and left a lake 800 yards in diameter, and from eighty to one hundred in depth. It was a portion of the forest of Aripao which subsided, and the trees remained green for several months under water.[660]
Sicily, 1790.--On the 18th of March in the same year, at S. Maria di Niscemi, some miles from Terranuova, near the south coast of Sicily, the ground gradually sunk down for a circumference of three Italian miles, during seven shocks; and, in one place, to the depth of thirty feet. It continued to subside to the end of the month. Several fissures sent forth sulphur, petroleum, steam, and hot water, and a stream of mud, which flowed for two hours, and covered a space sixty feet long and thirty broad. This happened far from both the ancient and modern volcanic district, in a group of strata consisting chiefly of blue clay.[661]
Java, 1786.--About the year 1786, an earthquake was felt at intervals, for the period of four months, in the neighborhood of Batur, in Java, and an eruption followed. Various rents were formed, which emitted a sulphurous vapor; separate tracts sunk away, and were swallowed by the earth. Into one of these the rivulet Dotog entered, and afterwards continued to follow a subterraneous course. The village of Jampang was buried in the ground, with thirty-eight of its inhabitants, who had not time to escape. We are indebted to Dr. Horsfield for having verified the above-mentioned facts.[662]
XXVIII. EARTHQUAKE IN CALABRIA, 1783
Earthquake in Calabria, February 5, 1783--Shocks continued to the end of the year 1786--Authorities--Area convulsed--Geological structure of the district--Difficulty of ascertaining changes of level--Subsidence of the quay at Messina--Movement in the stones of two obelisks--Shift or fault in the Round Tower of Terranuova--Opening and closing of fissures--Large edifices engulfed--Dimensions of new caverns and fissures--Gradual closing in of rents--Bounding of detached masses into the air--Landslips--Buildings transported entire to great distances--New lakes--Funnel-shaped hollows in alluvial plains--Currents of mud--Fall of cliffs, and shore near Scilla inundated--State of Stromboli and Etna during the shocks--How earthquakes contribute to the formation of valleys--Concluding remarks.
Calabria, 1783.--Of the numerous earthquakes which have occurred in different parts of the globe, during the last 100 years, that of Calabria, in 1783, is almost the only one of which the geologist can be said to have such a circumstantial account as to enable him fully to appreciate the changes which this cause is capable of producing in the lapse of ages. The shocks began in February, 1783, and lasted for nearly four years, to the end of 1786. Neither in duration, nor in violence, nor in the extent of territory moved, was this convulsion remarkable, when contrasted with many experienced in other countries, both during the last and present century; nor were the alterations which it occasioned in the relative level of hill and valley, land and sea, so great as those effected by some subterranean movements in South America, in later times. The importance of the earthquake in question arises from the circumstance, that Calabria is the only spot hitherto visited, both during and after the convulsions, by men possessing sufficient leisure, zeal, and scientific information, to enable them to collect and describe with accuracy the physical facts which throw light on geological questions.
Authorities.--Among the numerous authorities, Vivenzio, physician to the king of Naples, transmitted to the court a regular statement of his observations during the continuance of the shocks; and his narrative is drawn up with care and clearness.[663] Francesco Antonio Grimaldi, then secretary of war, visited the different provinces at the king's command, and published a most detailed description of the permanent changes in the surface.[664] He measured the length, breadth, and depth of the different fissures and gulfs which opened, and ascertained their number in many provinces. His comments, moreover, on the reports of the inhabitants, and his explanations of their relations, are judicious and instructive. Pignataro, a physician residing at Monteleone, a town placed in the very centre of the convulsions, kept a register of the shocks, distinguishing them into four classes, according to their degree of violence. From his work, it appears that, in the year 1783, the number was 949, of which 501 were shocks of the first degree of force; and in the following year there were 151, of which 98 were of the first magnitude.
Count Ippolito, also, and many others, wrote descriptions of the earthquake; and the Royal Academy of Naples, not satisfied with these and other observations, sent a deputation from their own body into Calabria, before the shocks had ceased, who were accompanied by artists instructed to illustrate by drawings the physical changes of the district, and the state of ruined towns and edifices. Unfortunately these artists were not very successful in their representations of the condition of the country, particularly when they attempted to express, on a large scale, the extraordinary revolutions which many of the great and minor river-courses underwent. But many of the plates published by the Academy are valuable; and as they are little known, I shall frequently avail myself of them to illustrate the facts about to be described.[665]
In addition to these Neapolitan sources of information, our countryman, Sir William Hamilton, surveyed the district, not without some personal risk, before the shocks had ceased; and his sketch, published in the Philosophical Transactions, supplies many facts that would otherwise have been lost. He has explained, in a rational manner, many events which, as related in the language of some eye-witnesses, appeared marvellous and incredible. Dolomieu also examined Calabria during the catastrophe, and wrote an account of the earthquake, correcting a mistake into which Hamilton had fallen, who supposed that a part of the tract shaken had consisted of volcanic tuff. It is, indeed, a circumstance which enhances the geological interest of the commotions which so often modify the surface of Calabria, that they are confined to a country where there are neither ancient nor modern rocks of volcanic or trappean origin; so that at some future time, when the era of disturbance shall have passed by, the cause of former revolutions will be as latent as in parts of Great Britain now occupied exclusively by ancient marine formations.
Extent of the area convulsed.--The convulsion of the earth, sea, and air extended over the whole of Calabria Ultra, the southeast part of Calabria Citra, and across the sea to Messina and its environs; a district lying between the 38th and 39th degrees of latitude. The concussion was perceptible over a great part of Sicily, and as far north as Naples; but the surface over which the shocks acted so forcibly as to excite intense alarm did not generally exceed 500 square miles in area. The soil of that part of Calabria is composed chiefly, like the southern part of Sicily, of calcareo-argillaceous strata of great thickness, containing marine shells. This clay is sometimes associated with beds of sand and limestone. For the most part these formations resemble in appearance and consistency the Subapennine marls, with their accompanying sands and sandstones; and the whole group bears considerable resemblance, in the yielding nature of its materials, to most of our tertiary deposits in France and England. Chronologically considered, however, the Calabrian formations are comparatively of modern date, often abounding in fossil shells referable to species now living in the Mediterranean.
We learn from Vivencio, that on the 20th and 26th of March, 1783, earthquakes occurred in the islands of Zante, Cephalonia, and St. Maura; and in the last-mentioned island several public edifices and private houses were overthrown, and many people destroyed.
If the city of Oppido, in Calabria Ultra, be taken as a centre, and round that centre a circle be described, with a radius of twenty-two miles, this space will comprehend the surface of the country which suffered the greatest alteration, and where all the towns and villages were destroyed. The first shock, of February 5th, 1783, threw down, in two minutes, the greater part of the houses in all the cities, towns, and villages, from the western flanks of the Apennines in Calabria Ultra to Messina in Sicily, and convulsed the whole surface of the country. Another occurred on the 28th of March, with almost equal violence. The granitic chain which passes through Calabria from north to south, and attains the height of many thousand feet, was shaken but slightly by the first shock, but more rudely by some which followed.
Some writers have asserted that the wave-like movements which were propagated through the recent strata, from west to east, became very violent when they reached the point of junction with the granite, as if a reaction was produced where the undulatory movement of the soft strata was suddenly arrested by the more solid rocks. But the statement of Dolomieu on this subject is most interesting, and perhaps, in a geological point of view, the most important of all the observations which are recorded.[666] The Apennines, he says, which consist in great part of hard and solid granite, with some micaceous and argillaceous schists, form bare mountains with steep sides, and exhibit marks of great degradation. At their base newer strata are seen of sand and clay, mingled with shells; a marine deposit containing such ingredients as would result from the decomposition of granite. The surface of this newer (tertiary) formation constitutes what is called the plain of Calabria--a platform which is flat and level, except where intersected by narrow valleys or ravines, which rivers and torrents have excavated sometimes to the depth of six hundred feet. The sides of these ravines are almost perpendicular; for the superior stratum, being bound together by the roots of trees, prevents the formation of a sloping bank. The usual effect of the earthquake, he continues, was to disconnect all those masses which either had not sufficient bases for their bulk, or which was supported only by lateral adherence. Hence it follows that throughout almost the whole length of the chain, the soil which adhered to the granite at the base of the mountains Caulone, Esope, Sagra, and Aspramonte, slid over the solid and steeply inclined nucleus, and descended somewhat lower, leaving almost uninterruptedly from St. George to beyond St. Christina, a distance of from nine to ten miles, a chasm between the solid granitic nucleus and the sandy soil. Many lands slipping thus were carried to a considerable distance from their former position, so as entirely to cover others; and disputes arose as to whom the property which had thus shifted its place should belong.
From this account of Dolomieu we might anticipate, as the result of a continuance of such earthquakes, first, a longitudinal valley following the line of junction of the older and newer rocks; secondly, greater disturbance in the newer strata near the point of contact than at a greater distance from the mountains; phenomena very common in other parts of Italy at the junction of the Apennine and Subapennine formations.
Mr. Mallet, in his valuable essay on the Dynamics of Earthquakes,[667] offers the following explanation of the fact to which Dolomieu has called attention. When a wave of elastic compression, of which he considers the earth-wave to consist, passes abruptly from a body having an extremely low elasticity, such as clay and gravel, into another like granite, whose elasticity is remarkably high, it changes not only its velocity but in part also its course, a portion being reflected and a portion refracted. The wave being thus sent back again produces a shock in the opposite direction, doing great damage to buildings on the surface by thus returning upon itself. At the same time, the shocks are at once eased when they get into the more elastic materials of the granitic mountains.
The surface of the country during the Calabrian earthquakes often heaved like the billows of a swelling sea, which produced a swimming in the head, like sea-sickness. It is particularly stated, in almost all the accounts, that just before each shock the clouds appeared motionless; and, although no explanation is offered of this phenomenon, it is obviously the same as that observed in a ship at sea when it pitches violently. The clouds seem arrested in their career as often as the vessel rises in a direction contrary to their course; so that the Calabrians must have experienced precisely the same motion on the land.
Trees, supported by their trunks, sometimes bent during the shocks to the earth, and touched it with their tops. This is mentioned as a well-known fact by Dolomieu; and he assures us that he was always on his guard against the spirit of exaggeration in which the vulgar are ever ready to indulge when relating these wonderful occurrences.
It is impossible to suppose that these waves, which are described in Italy and other regions of earthquakes as passing along the solid surface of the earth in a given direction like a billow on the sea, have any strict analogy with the undulations of a fluid. They are doubtless the effects of vibrations, radiating from some deep-seated point, each of which on reaching the surface lifts up the ground, and then allows it again to subside. As the distance between the source of the subterranean movement and the surface must vary according to the outline of the country, so the vibratory jar will reach different points in succession.
The Academicians relate that in some of the cities of Calabria effects were produced seeming to indicate a whirling or vorticose movement. Thus, for example, two obelisks (fig. 75) placed at the extremities of a magnificent façade in the convent of S. Bruno, in a small town called Stefano del Bosco, were observed to have undergone a movement of a singular kind. The shock which agitated the building is described as having been horizontal and vorticose. The pedestal of each obelisk remained in its original place; but the separate stones above were turned partially round, and removed sometimes nine inches from their position without falling.
It has been suggested by Mr. Darwin that this kind of displacement may be due to a vibratory rather than a whirling motion;[668] and more lately Mr. Mallet, in the paper already cited, has offered a very ingenious solution of the problem. He refers the twisting simply to an elastic wave, which has moved the pedestal forwards and back again, by an alternate horizontal motion within narrow limits, and he has succeeded in showing that a rectilinear movement in the ground may have sufficed to cause an incumbent body to turn partially round upon its bed, provided a certain relation exist between the position of the centre of gravity of the body and its centre of adherence.[669]
I shall now consider, in the first place, that class of physical changes produced by the earthquake which are connected with alterations in the relative level of the different parts of the land; and afterwards describe those which are more immediately connected with the derangement of the regular drainage of the country, and where the force of running water co-operated with that of the earthquake.
Difficulty of ascertaining changes of level.--In regard to alterations of relative level, none of the accounts establish that they were on a considerable scale; but it must always be remembered that, in proportion to the area moved is the difficulty of proving that the general level has undergone any change, unless the sea-coast happens to have participated in the principal movement. Even then it is often impossible to determine whether an elevation or depression even of several feet has occurred, because there is nothing to attract notice in a band of shingle and sand of unequal breadth above the level of the sea running parallel to a coast; such bands generally marking the point reached by the waves during spring tides, or the most violent tempests. The scientific investigator has not sufficient topographical knowledge to discover whether the extent of beach has diminished or increased; and he who has the necessary local information, scarcely ever feels any interest in ascertaining the amount of the rise or fall of the ground. Add to this the great difficulty of making correct observations, in consequence of the enormous waves which roll in upon a coast during an earthquake, and efface every landmark near the shore.
Subsidence of the quay at Messina.--It is evidently in seaports alone that we can look for very accurate indications of slight changes of level; and when we find them, we may presume that they would not be rare at other points, if equal facilities of comparing relative altitudes were afforded. Grimaldi states (and his account is confirmed by Hamilton and others), that at Messina, in Sicily, the shore was rent; and the soil along the port, which before the shock was perfectly level, was found afterwards to be inclined towards the sea,--the sea itself near the "Banchina" becoming deeper, and its bottom in several places disordered. The quay also sunk down about fourteen inches below the level of the sea, and the houses in its vicinity were much fissured. (Phil. Trans. 1783.)
Among various proofs of partial elevation and depression in the interior, the Academicians mention, in their Survey, that the ground was sometimes on the same level on both sides of new ravines and fissures, but sometimes there had been a considerable shifting, either by the upheaving of one side, or the subsidence of the other. Thus, on the sides of long rents in the territory of Soriano, the stratified masses had altered their relative position to the extent of from eight to fourteen palms (six to ten and a half feet).
Polistena.--Similar shifts in the strata are alluded to in the territory of Polistena, where there appeared innumerable fissures in the earth. One of these was of great length and depth; and in parts the level of the corresponding sides was greatly changed. (See fig. 76.)
Terranuova.--In the town of Terranuova some houses were seen uplifted above the common level, and others adjoining sunk down into the earth. In several streets the soil appeared thrust up, and abutted against the walls of houses: a large circular tower of solid masonry, part of which had withstood the general destruction, was divided by a vertical rent, and one side was upraised, and the foundations heaved out of the ground. It was compared by the Academicians to a great tooth half extracted from the alveolus, with the upper part of the fangs exposed. (See fig. 77.)
Along the line of this shift, or "fault," as it would be termed technically by miners, the walls were found to adhere firmly to each other, and to fit so well, that the only signs of their having been disunited was the want of correspondence in the courses of stone on either side of the rent.
Dolomieu saw a stone well in the convent of the Augustins at Terranuova, which had the appearance of having been driven out of the earth. It resembled a small tower eight or nine feet in height, and a little inclined. This effect, he says, was produced by the consolidation and consequent sinking of the sandy soil in which the well was dug.
In some walls which had been thrown down, or violently shaken, in Monteleone, the separate stones were parted from the mortar, so as to leave an exact mould where they had rested; whereas in other cases the mortar was ground to dust between the stones.
It appears that the wave-like motions often produced effects of the most capricious kind. Thus, in some streets of Monteleone, every house was thrown down but one; in others, all but two; and the buildings which were spared were often scarcely in the least degree injured. In many cities of Calabria, all the most solid buildings were thrown down, while those which were slightly built escaped; but at Rosarno, as also at Messina in Sicily, it was precisely the reverse, the massive edifices being the only ones that stood.
Fissures.--It appears evident that a great part of the rending and fissuring of the ground was the effect of a violent motion from below upwards; and in a multitude of cases where the rents and chasms opened and closed alternately, we must suppose that the earth was by turns heaved up, and then let fall again.[670] We may conceive the same effect to be produced on a small scale, if, by some mechanical force, a pavement composed of large flags of stone should be raised up, and then allowed to fall suddenly, so as to resume its original position. If any small pebbles happened to be lying on the line of contact of two flags, they would fall into the opening when the pavement rose, and be swallowed up, so that no trace of them would appear after the subsidence of the stones. In the same manner, when the earth was upheaved, large houses, trees, cattle, and men were engulfed in an instant in chasms and fissures; and when the ground sank down again, the earth closed upon them, so that no vestige of them was discoverable on the surface. In many instances, individuals were swallowed up by one shock, and then thrown out again alive, together with large jets of water, by the shock which immediately succeeded.
At Jerocarne, a country which, according to the Academicians, was lacerated in a most extraordinary manner, the fissures ran in every direction, "like cracks on a broken pane of glass" (see fig. 78); and as a great portion of them remained open after the shocks, it is very possible that this country was permanently upraised. It was usual, as we learn from Dolomieu, for the chasms and fissures throughout Calabria, to ran parallel to the course of some pre-existing gorges in their neighborhood.
Houses engulfed.--In the vicinity of Oppido, the central point from which the earthquake diffused its violent movements, many houses were swallowed up by the yawning earth, which closed immediately over them. In the adjacent district, also, of Cannamaria four farm-houses, several oil-stores, and some spacious dwelling-houses were so completely engulfed in one chasm, that not a vestige of them was afterwards discernible. The same phenomena occurred at Terranuova, S. Christina, and Sinopoli. The Academicians state particularly, that when deep abysses had opened in the argillaceous strata of Terranuova, and houses had sunk into them, the sides of the chasms closed with such violence, that, on excavating afterwards to recover articles of value, the workmen found the contents and detached parts of the buildings jammed together so as to become one compact mass. It is unnecessary to accumulate examples of similar occurrences; but so many are well authenticated during this earthquake in Calabria, that we may, without hesitation, yield assent to the accounts of catastrophes of the same kind repeated again and again in history, where whole towns are declared to have been engulfed, and nothing but a pool of water or tract of sand left in their place.
Chasm formed near Oppido.--On the sloping side of a hill near Oppido a great chasm opened; and, although a large quantity of soil was precipitated into the abyss, together with a considerable number of olive-trees and part of a vineyard, a great gulf remained after the shock, in the form of an amphitheatre, 500 feet long and 200 feet deep. (See fig. 79.)
Dimensions of new fissures and chasms.--According to Grimaldi, many fissures and chasms, formed by the first shock of February 5th, were greatly widened, lengthened, and deepened by the violent convulsions of March 28th. In the territory of San Fili this observer found a new ravine, half a mile in length, two feet and a half broad, and twenty-five feet deep; and another of similar dimensions in the territory of Rosarno. A ravine nearly a mile long, 105 feet broad and thirty feet deep, opened in the district of Plaisano, where, also, two gulfs were caused--one in a place called Cerzulle, three-quarters of a mile long, 150 feet broad, and above one hundred feet deep; and another at La Fortuna, nearly a quarter of a mile long, above thirty feet in breadth, and no less than 225 feet deep.
In the district of Fosolano three gulfs opened: one of these measured 300 feet square, and above thirty feet deep; another was nearly half a mile long, fifteen feet broad, and above thirty-feet deep; the third was 750 feet square. Lastly, a calcareous mountain, called Zefirio, at the southern extremity of the Italian peninsula, was cleft in two for the length of nearly half a mile, and an irregular breadth of many feet. Some of these chasms were in the form of a crescent. The annexed cut (fig. 80) represents one by no means remarkable for its dimensions, which remained open by the side of a small pass over the hill of St. Angelo, near Soriano. The small river Mesima is seen in the foreground.
Formation of circular hollows and new lakes.--In the report of the Academy, we find that some plains were covered with circular hollows, for the most part about the size of carriage-wheels, but often somewhat larger or smaller. When filled with water to within a foot or two of the surface, they appeared like wells; but, in general, they were filled with dry sand, sometimes with a concave surface, and at other times convex. (See fig. 81.) On digging down, they found them to be funnel-shaped, and the moist loose sand in the centre marked the tube up which the water spouted. The annexed cut (fig. 82) represents a section of one of these inverted cones when the water had disappeared, and nothing but dry micaceous sand remained.
A small circular pond of similar character was formed not far from Polistena (see fig. 83); and in the vicinity of Seminara, a lake was suddenly caused by the opening of a great chasm, from the bottom of which water issued. This lake was called Lago del Tolfilo. It extended 1785 feet in length, by 937 in breadth, and 52 in depth. The inhabitants, dreading the miasma of this stagnant pool, endeavored, at great cost, to drain it by canals, but without success, as it was fed by springs issuing from the bottom of the deep chasm.
Vivenzio states, that near Sitizzano a valley was nearly filled up to a level with the high grounds on each side, by the enormous masses detached from the boundary hills, and cast down into the course of two streams. By this barrier a lake was formed of great depth, about two miles long and a mile broad. The same author mentions that, upon the whole, there were fifty lakes occasioned during the convulsions: and he assigns localities to all of these. The government surveyors enumerated 215 lakes; but they included in this number many small ponds.
Cones of sand thrown up.--Many of the appearances exhibited in the alluvial plains, such as springs spouting up their water like fountains at the moment of the shock, have been supposed to indicate the alternate rising and sinking of the ground. The first effect of the more violent shocks was usually to dry up the rivers, but they immediately afterwards overflowed their banks. In marshy places, an immense number of cones of sand were thrown up. These appearances Hamilton explains, by supposing that the first movement raised the fissured plain from below upwards, so that the rivers and stagnant waters in bogs sank down, or at least were not upraised with the soil. But when the ground returned with violence to its former position, the water was thrown up in jets through fissures.[671]
The phenomenon, according to Mr. Mallet, may be simply an accident contingent on the principal cause of disturbance, the rapid transit of the earth-wave. "The sources," he says, "of copious springs usually lie in flat plates or fissures filled with water, whether issuing from solid rock, or from loose materials; now, if a vein, or thin flat cavity filled with water, be in such a position that the plane of the plate of water or fissure be transverse to the line of transit of the earth-wave, the effect of the arrival of the earth-wave at the watery fissure will be, at the instant, to compress its walls more or less together, and so squeeze out the water, which will, for a moment, gush up at the spring-head like a fountain, and again remain in repose after the transit of the wave."
Gradual closing in of fissures.--Sir W. Hamilton was shown several deep fissures in the vicinity of Mileto, which, although not one of them was above a foot in breadth, had opened so wide during the earthquake as to swallow an ox and nearly one hundred goats. The Academicians also found, on their return through districts which they had passed at the commencement of their tour, that many rents had, in that short interval, gradually closed in, so that their width had diminished several feet, and the opposite walls had sometimes nearly met. It is natural that this should happen in argillaceous strata, while, in more solid rocks, we may expect that fissures will remain open for ages. Should this be ascertained to be a general fact in countries convulsed by earthquakes, it may afford a satisfactory explanation of a common phenomenon in mineral veins. Such veins often retain their full size so long as the rocks consist of limestone, granite, or other indurated materials; but they contract their dimensions, become mere threads, or are even entirely cut off, where masses of an argillaceous nature are interposed. If we suppose the filling up of fissures with metallic and other ingredients to be a process requiring ages for its completion, it is obvious that the opposite walls of rents, where strata consist of yielding materials, must collapse or approach very near to each other before sufficient time is allowed for the accretion of a large quantity of veinstone.
Thermal waters augmented.--It is stated by Grimaldi, that the thermal waters of St. Eufemia, in Terra di Amato, which first burst out during the earthquake of 1638, acquired, in February, 1783, an augmentation both in quantity and degree of heat. This fact appears to indicate a connection between the heat of the interior and the fissures caused by the Calabrian earthquakes, notwithstanding the absence of volcanic rocks, either ancient or modern, in that district.
Bounding of detached masses into the air.--The violence of the movement of the ground upwards was singularly illustrated by what the Academicians call the "sbalzo," or bounding into the air, to the height of several yards, of masses slightly adhering to the surface. In some towns a great part of the pavement stones were thrown up, and found lying with their lower sides uppermost. In these cases, we must suppose that they were propelled upwards by the momentum which they had acquired; and that the adhesion of one end of the mass being greater than that of the other, a rotatory motion had been communicated to them. When the stone was projected to a sufficient height to perform somewhat more than a quarter of a revolution in the air, it pitched down on its edge, and fell with its lower side uppermost.
Effects of earthquakes on the excavations of valleys.--The next class of effects to be considered, are those more immediately connected with the formation of valleys, in which the action of water was often combined with that of the earthquake. The country agitated was composed, as before stated, chiefly of argillaceous strata, intersected by deep narrow valleys, sometimes from 500 to 600 feet deep. As the boundary cliffs were in great part vertical, it will readily be conceived that, amidst the various movements of the earth, the precipices overhanging rivers, being without support on one side, were often thrown down. We find, indeed, that inundations produced by obstructions in river-courses are among the most disastrous consequences of great earthquakes in all parts of the world, for the alluvial plains in the bottoms of valleys are usually the most fertile and well-peopled parts of the whole country; and whether the site of a town is above or below a temporary barrier in the channel of a river, it is exposed to injury by the waters either of a lake or flood.
Landslips.--From each side of the deep valley or ravine of Terranuova enormous masses of the adjoining flat country were detached, and cast down into the course of the river, so as to give rise to great lakes. Oaks, olive-trees, vineyards, and corn, were often seen growing at the bottom of the ravine, as little injured as their former companions, which still continued to flourish in the plain above, at least 500 feet higher, and at the distance of about three-quarters of a mile. In one part of this ravine was an enormous mass, 200 feet high and about 400 feet at its base, which had been detached by some former earthquake. It is well attested, that this mass travelled down the ravine nearly four miles, having been put in motion by the earthquake of the 5th of February. Hamilton, after examining the spot, declared that this phenomenon might be accounted for by the declivity of the valley, the great abundance of rain which fell, and the great weight of the alluvial matter which pressed behind it. Dolomieu also alludes to the fresh impulse derived from other masses falling, and pressing upon the rear of those first set in motion.
The first account sent to Naples of the two great slides or landslips above alluded to, which caused a great lake near Terranuova, was couched in these words:--"Two mountains on the opposite sides of a valley walked from their original position until they met in the middle of the plain, and there joining together, they intercepted the course of a river," &c. The expressions here used resemble singularly those applied to phenomena, probably very analogous, which are said to have occurred at Fez, during the great Lisbon earthquake, as also in Jamaica and Java at other periods.
Not far from Soriano, which was levelled to the ground by the great shock of February, a small valley, containing a beautiful olive-grove, called Fra Ramondo, underwent a most extraordinary revolution. Innumerable fissures first traversed the river-plain in all directions, and absorbed the water until the argillaceous substratum became soaked, so that a great part of it was reduced to a state of fluid paste. Strange alterations in the outline of the ground were the consequence, as the soil to a great depth was easily moulded into any form. In addition to this change, the ruins of the neighboring hills were precipitated into the hollow; and while many olives were uprooted, others remained growing on the fallen masses, and inclined at various angles (see fig. 84). The small river Caridi was entirely concealed for many days; and when at length it reappeared, it had shaped for itself an entirely new channel.
Buildings transported entire to great distances.--Near Seminara an extensive olive-ground and orchard were hurled to a distance of two hundred feet, into a valley sixty feet in depth. At the same time a deep chasm was riven in another part of the high platform from which the orchard had been detached, and the river immediately entered the fissure, leaving its former bed completely dry. A small inhabited house, standing on the mass of earth carried down into the valley, went along with it entire, and without injury to the inhabitants. The olive-trees, also, continued to grow on the land which had slid into the valley, and bore the same year an abundant crop of fruit.
Two tracts of land on which a great part of the town of Polistena stood, consisting of some hundreds of houses, were detached into a contiguous ravine, and nearly across it, about half a mile from their original site; and what is most extraordinary, several of the inhabitants were dug out from the ruins alive and unhurt.
Two tenements, near Mileto, called the Macini and Vaticano, occupying an extent of ground about a mile long and half a mile broad, were carried for a mile down a valley. A thatched cottage, together with large olive and mulberry trees, most of which remained erect, were carried uninjured to this extraordinary distance. According to Hamilton, the surface removed had been long undermined by rivulets, which were afterwards in full view on the bare spot deserted by the tenements. The earthquake seems to have opened a passage in the adjoining argillaceous hills, which admitted water charged with loose soil into the subterranean channels of the rivulets immediately under the tenements, so that the foundations of the ground set in motion by the earthquake were loosened. Another example of subsidence, where the edifices were not destroyed, is mentioned by Grimaldi, as having taken place in the city of Catanzaro, the capital of the province of that name. The houses in the quarter called San Giuseppe subsided with the ground to various depths from two to four feet, but the buildings remained uninjured.
It would be tedious, and our space would not permit us, to follow the different authors through their local details of landslips produced in minor valleys; but they are highly interesting, as showing to how great an extent the power of rivers to widen valleys, and to carry away large portions of soil towards the sea, is increased where earthquakes are of periodical occurrence. Among other territories, that of Cinquefrondi, was greatly convulsed, various portions of soil being raised or sunk, and innumerable fissures traversing the country in all directions (see fig. 85). Along the flanks of a small valley in this district there appears to have been an almost uninterrupted line of landslips.
Currents of mud.--Near S. Lucido, among other places, the soil is described as having been "dissolved," so that large torrents of mud inundated all the low grounds, like lava. Just emerging from this mud, the tops only of trees and of the ruins of farm-houses were seen. Two miles from Laureana, the swampy soil in two ravines became filled with calcareous matter, which oozed out from the ground immediately before the first great shock. This mud, rapidly accumulating, began, ere long, to roll onward, like a flood of lava, into the valley, where the two streams uniting, moved forward with increased impetus from east to west. It now presented a breadth of 225 feet by 15 in depth, and, before it ceased to move, covered a surface equal in length to an Italian mile. In its progress it overwhelmed a flock of thirty goats, and tore up by the roots many olive and mulberry trees, which floated like ships upon its surface. When this calcareous lava had ceased to move, it gradually became dry and hard, during which process the mass was lowered seven feet and a half. It contained fragments of earth of a ferruginous color, and emitting a sulphureous smell.
Fall of the sea-cliffs.--Along the sea-coast of the Straits of Messina, near the celebrated rock of Scilla, the fall of huge masses detached from the bold and lofty cliffs overwhelmed many villas and gardens. At Gian Greco, a continuous line of cliff, for a mile in length, was thrown down. Great agitation was frequently observed in the bed of the sea during the shocks, and, on those parts of the coast where the movement was most violent, all kinds of fish were taken in abundance, and with unusual facility. Some rare species, as that called Cicirelli, which usually lie buried in the sand, were taken on the surface of the waters in great quantity. The sea is said to have boiled up near Messina, and to have been agitated as if by a copious discharge of vapors from its bottom.
Shore near Scilla inundated.--The prince of Scilla had persuaded a great part of his vassals to betake themselves to their fishing-boats for safety, and he himself had gone on board. On the night of the 5th of February, when some of the people were sleeping in the boats, and others on a level plain slightly elevated above the sea, the earth rocked, and suddenly a great mass was torn from the contiguous Mount Jaci, and thrown down with a dreadful crash upon the plain. Immediately afterwards, the sea, rising more than twenty feet above the level of this low tract, rolled foaming over it, and swept away the multitude. It then retreated, but soon rushed back again with greater violence, bringing with it some of the people and animals it had carried away. At the same time every boat was sunk or dashed against the beach, and some of them were swept far inland. The aged prince, with 1430 of his people, was destroyed.
State of Stromboli and Etna during the shocks.--The inhabitants of Pizzo remarked that on the 5th of February, 1783, when the first great shock afflicted Calabria, the volcano of Stromboli, which is in full view of that town, and at the distance of about fifty miles, smoked less, and threw up a less quantity of inflamed matter than it had done for some years previously. On the other hand, the great crater of Etna is said to have given out a considerable quantity of vapor towards the beginning, and Stromboli towards the close, of the commotions. But as no eruption happened from either of these great vents during the whole earthquake, the sources of the Calabrian convulsions, and of the volcanic fires of Etna and Stromboli, appear to be very independent of each other; unless, indeed, they have the same mutual relation as Vesuvius and the volcanoes of the Phlegræan Fields and Ischia, a violent disturbance in one district serving as a safety-valve to the other, and both never being in full activity at once.
Excavation of valleys.--It is impossible for the geologist to consider attentively the effect of this single earthquake of 1783, and to look forward to the alterations in the physical condition of the country to which a continued series of such movements will hereafter give rise, without perceiving that the formation of valleys by running water can never be understood, if we consider the question independently of the agency of earthquakes. It must not be imagined that rivers only begin to act when a country is already elevated far above the level of the sea, for their action must of necessity be most powerful while land is rising and sinking by successive movements. Whether Calabria is now undergoing any considerable change of relative level, in regard to the sea, or is, upon the whole, nearly stationary, is a question which our observations, confined almost entirely to the last half century, cannot possibly enable us to determine. But we know that strata, containing species of shells identical with those now living in the contiguous parts of the Mediterranean, have been raised in that country, as they have in Sicily, to the height of several thousand feet.
Now, those geologists who grant that the present course of Nature in the inanimate world has continued the same since the existing species of animals were in being, will not feel surprised that the Calabrian streams and rivers have cut out of such comparatively modern strata a great system of valleys, varying in depth from fifty to six hundred feet, and often several miles wide, if they consider how numerous may have been the shocks which accompanied the uplifting of those recent marine strata to so prodigious a height. Some speculators, indeed, who disregard the analogy of existing nature, and who are always ready to assume that her forces were more energetic in by-gone ages, may dispense with a long series of movements, and suppose that Calabria "rose like an exhalation" from the deep, after the manner of Milton's Pandemonium. But such an hypothesis would deprive them of that peculiar removing force required to form a regular system of deep and wide valleys; for time, which they are so unwilling to assume, is essential to the operation. Time must be allowed in the intervals between distinct convulsions, for running water to clear away the ruins caused by landslips, otherwise the fallen masses will serve as buttresses, and prevent the succeeding earthquake from exerting its full power. The sides of the valley must be again cut away by the stream, and made to form precipices and over-hanging cliffs, before the next shock can take effect in the same manner.
Possibly the direction of the succeeding shock may not coincide with that of the valley, a great extent of adjacent country being equally shaken. Still it will usually happen that no permanent geographical change will be produced except in valleys. In them alone will occur landslips from the boundary cliffs, and these will frequently divert the stream from its accustomed course, causing the original ravine to become both wider and more tortuous in its direction.
If a single convulsion of extreme violence should agitate at once an entire hydrographical basin, or if the shocks should follow each other too rapidly, the previously existing valleys would be annihilated, instead of being modified and enlarged. Every stream might in that case be compelled to begin its operations anew, and to shape out new channels, instead of continuing to deepen and widen those already excavated. But if the subterranean movements have been intermittent, and if sufficient periods have always intervened between the severer shocks to allow the drainage of the country to be nearly restored to its original state, then are both the kind and degree of force supplied by which running water may hollow out valleys of any depth or size consistent with the elevation above the sea which the districts drained by them may have attained.
When we read of the drying up and desertion of the channels of rivers, the accounts most frequently refer to their deflection into some other part of the same alluvial plain, perhaps several miles distant. Under certain circumstances a change of level may undoubtedly force the water to flow over into some distinct hydrographical basin; but even then it will fall immediately into some other system of valleys already formed.
We learn from history that, ever since the first Greek colonists settled in Calabria, that region has been subject to devastation by earthquakes; and, for the last century and a half, ten years have seldom elapsed without a shock; but the severer convulsions have not only been separated by intervals of twenty, fifty, or one hundred years, but have not affected precisely the same points when they recurred. Thus the earthquake of 1783, although confined within the same geographical limits as that of 1638, and not very inferior in violence, visited, according to Grimaldi, very different districts. The points where the local intensity of the force is developed being thus perpetually varied, more time is allowed for the removal of separate mountain masses thrown into river-channels by each shock.
Number of persons who perished during the earthquake.--The number of persons who perished during the earthquake in the two Calabrias and Sicily, is estimated by Hamilton at about forty thousand; and about twenty thousand more died by epidemics, which were caused by insufficient nourishment, exposure to the atmosphere, and malaria, arising from the new stagnant lakes and pools.
By far the greater number were buried under the ruins of their houses; but many were burnt to death in the conflagrations which almost invariably followed the shocks. These fires raged the more violently in some cities, such as Oppido, from the immense magazines of oil which were consumed.
Many persons were engulfed in deep fissures, especially the peasants when flying across the open country, and their skeletons may perhaps be buried in the earth to this day, at the depth of several hundred feet.
When Dolomieu visited Messina after the shock of Feb. 5th, he describes the city as still presenting, at least at a distance, an imperfect image of its ancient splendor. Every house was injured, but the walls were standing; the whole population had taken refuge in wooden huts in the neighborhood, and all was solitude and silence in the streets: it seemed as if the city had been desolated by the plague, and the impression made upon his feelings was that of melancholy and sadness. "But when I passed over to Calabria, and first beheld Polistena, the scene of horror almost deprived me of my faculties; my mind was filled with mingled compassion and terror; nothing had escaped; all was levelled with the dust; not a single house or piece of wall remained; on all sides were heaps of stone so destitute of form, that they gave no conception of there ever having been a town on the spot. The stench of the dead bodies still rose from the ruins. I conversed with many persons who had been buried for three, four, and even for five days; I questioned them respecting their sensations in so dreadful a situation, and they agreed that of all the physical evils they endured, thirst was the most intolerable; and that their mental agony was increased by the idea that they were abandoned by their friends, who might have rendered them assistance."[672]
It is supposed that about a fourth part of the inhabitants of Polistena, and of some other towns, were buried alive, and might have been saved had there been no want of hands; but in so general a calamity, where each was occupied with his own misfortunes or those of his family, aid could rarely be obtained. Neither tears, nor supplications, nor promises of high rewards were listened to. Many acts of self-devotion, prompted by parental and conjugal tenderness, or by friendship, or the gratitude of faithful servants, are recorded; but individual exertions were, for the most part, ineffectual. It frequently happened, that persons in search of those most dear to them could hear their moans,--could recognize their voices--were certain of the exact spot where they lay buried beneath their feet, yet could afford them no succor. The piled mass resisted all their strength, and rendered their efforts of no avail.
At Terranuova, four Augustin monks, who had taken refuge in a vaulted sacristy, the arch of which continued to support an immense pile of ruins, made their cries heard for the space of four days. One only of the brethren of the whole convent was saved, and "of what avail was his strength to remove the enormous weight of rubbish which had overwhelmed his companions?" He heard their voices die away gradually; and when afterwards their four corpses were disinterred, they were found clasped in each other's arms. Affecting narratives are preserved of mothers saved after the fifth, sixth, and even seventh day of their interment, when their infants or children had perished with hunger.
It might have been imagined that the sight of sufferings such as these would have been sufficient to awaken sentiments of humanity and pity in the most savage breasts; but while some acts of heroism are related, nothing could exceed the general atrocity of conduct displayed by the Calabrian peasants: they abandoned the farms, and flocked in great numbers into the towns--not to rescue their countrymen from a lingering death, but to plunder. They dashed through the streets, fearless of danger, amid tottering walls and clouds of dust, trampling beneath their feet the bodies of the wounded and half-buried, and often stripping them, while yet living, of their clothes.[673]
Concluding remarks.--But to enter more fully into these details would be foreign to the purpose of the present work, and several volumes would be required to give the reader a just idea of the sufferings which the inhabitants of many populous districts have undergone during the earthquakes of the last 150 years. A bare mention of the loss of life--as that fifty or a hundred thousand souls perished in one catastrophe--conveys to the reader no idea of the extent of misery inflicted: we must learn, from the narratives of eye-witnesses, the various forms in which death was encountered, the numbers who escaped with loss of limbs or serious bodily injuries, and the multitude who were suddenly reduced to penury and want. It has been often remarked, that the dread of earthquakes is strongest in the minds of those who have experienced them most frequently; whereas, in the case of almost every other danger, familiarity with peril renders men intrepid. The reason is obvious--scarcely any part of the mischief apprehended in this instance is imaginary; the first shock is often the most destructive; and, as it may occur in the dead of the night, or if by day, without giving the least warning of its approach, no forethought can guard against it; and when the convulsion has begun, no skill, or courage, or presence of mind, can point out the path of safety. During the intervals, of uncertain duration, between the more fatal shocks, slight tremors of the soil are not unfrequent; and as these sometimes precede more violent convulsions, they become a source of anxiety and alarm. The terror arising from this cause alone is of itself no inconsiderable evil.
Although sentiments of pure religion are frequently awakened by these awful visitations, yet we more commonly find that an habitual state of fear, a sense of helplessness, and a belief in the futility of all human exertions, prepare the minds of the vulgar for the influence of a demoralizing superstition.
Where earthquakes are frequent, there can never be perfect security of property under the best government; industry cannot be assured of reaping the fruits of its labor; and the most daring acts of outrage may occasionally be perpetrated with impunity, when the arm of the law is paralyzed by the general consternation. It is hardly necessary to add, that the progress of civilization and national wealth must be retarded by convulsions which level cities to the ground, destroy harbors, render roads impassable, and cause the most cultivated valley-plains to be covered with lakes, or the ruins of adjoining hills.
Those geologists who imagine that, at remote periods ere man became a sojourner on earth, the volcanic agency was more energetic than now, should be careful to found their opinion on strict geological evidence, and not permit themselves to be biased, as they have often been, by a notion, that the disturbing force would probably be mitigated for the sake of man.
I shall endeavor to point out in the sequel, that the general tendency of subterranean movements, when their effects are considered for a sufficient lapse of ages, is eminently beneficial, and that they constitute an essential part of that mechanism by which the integrity of the habitable surface is preserved, and the very existence and perpetuation of dry land secured. Why the working of this same machinery should be attended with so much evil, is a mystery far beyond the reach of our philosophy, and must probably remain so until we are permitted to investigate, not our planet alone and its inhabitants, but other parts of the moral and material universe with which they may be connected. Could our survey embrace other worlds, and the events, not of a few centuries only, but of periods as indefinite as those with which geology renders us familiar, some apparent contradictions might be reconciled, and some difficulties would doubtless be cleared up. But even then, as our capacities are finite, while the scheme of the universe may be infinite, both in time and space, it is presumptuous to suppose that all sources of doubt and perplexity would ever be removed. On the contrary, they might, perhaps, go on augmenting in number, although our confidence in the wisdom of the plan of Nature should increase at the same time; for it has been justly said, that the greater the circle of light, the greater the boundary of darkness by which it is surrounded.[674]
XXIX. EARTHQUAKES--continued
Earthquake of Java, 1772--Truncation of a lofty cone--St. Domingo, 1770--Lisbon, 1755--Great area over which the shocks extended--Retreat of the sea--Proposed explanations--Conception Bay, 1750--Permanent elevation--Peru, 1746--Java, 1699--Rivers obstructed by landslips--Subsidence in Sicily, 1693--Moluccas, 1693--Jamaica, 1692--Large tracts engulfed--Portion of Port Royal sunk--Amount of change in the last 150 years--Elevation and subsidence of land in Bay of Baiæ--Evidence of the same afforded by the Temple of Serapis.
In the preceding chapters we have considered a small part only of those earthquakes which have occurred during the last seventy years, of which accurate and authentic descriptions happen to have been recorded. In examining those of earlier date, we find their number so great that allusion can be made to a few only respecting which information of peculiar geological interest has been obtained.
Java, 1772.--Truncation of a lofty cone.--In the year 1772, Papandayang, formerly one of the loftiest volcanoes in the island of Java, was in eruption. Before all the inhabitants on the declivities of the mountain could save themselves by flight, the ground began to give way, and a great part of the volcano fell in and disappeared. It is estimated that an extent of ground of the mountain itself and its immediate environs, fifteen miles long and full six broad, was by this commotion swallowed up in the bowels of the earth. Forty villages were destroyed, some being engulfed and some covered by the substances thrown out on this occasion, and 2957 of the inhabitants perished. A proportionate number of cattle were also killed, and most of the plantations of cotton, indigo, and coffee in the adjacent districts were buried under the volcanic matter. This catastrophe appears to have resembled, although on a grander scale, that of the ancient Vesuvius in the year 79. The cone was reduced in height from 9000 to about 5000 feet; and, as vapors still escape from the crater on its summit, a new cone may one day rise out of the ruins of the ancient mountain, as the modern Vesuvius has risen from the remains of Somma.[675]
St. Domingo, 1770.--During a tremendous earthquake which destroyed a great part of St. Domingo, innumerable fissures were caused throughout the island, from which mephitic vapors emanated and produced an epidemic. Hot springs burst forth in many places where there had been no water before; but after a time they ceased to flow.[676]
In a previous earthquake, in November, 1751, a violent shock destroyed the capital, Port au Prince, and part of the coast, twenty leagues in length, sank down, and has ever since formed a bay of the sea.[677]
Hindostan, 1762.--The town of Chittagong, in Bengal, was violently shaken by an earthquake, on the 2d of April, 1762, the earth opening in many places, and throwing up water and mud of a sulphureous smell. At a place called Bardavan, a large river was dried up; and at Bar Charra, near the sea, a tract of ground sunk down, and 200 people, with all their cattle, were lost. It is said, that sixty square miles of the Chittagong coast suddenly and permanently subsided during this earthquake, and that Ces-lung-Toom, one of the Mug mountains, entirely disappeared, and another sank so low, that its summit only remained visible. Four hills are also described as having been variously rent asunder, leaving open chasms from thirty to sixty feet in width. Towns which subsided several cubits, were overflowed with water; among others, Deep Gong, which was submerged to the depth of seven cubits. Two volcanoes are said to have opened in the Secta Cunda hills. The shock was also felt at Calcutta.[678] While the Chittagong coast was sinking, a corresponding rise of the ground took place at the island of Ramree, and at Cheduba (see Map, fig. 39, p. 351).[679]
Lisbon, 1755.--In no part of the volcanic region of southern Europe has so tremendous an earthquake occurred in modern times, as that which began on the 1st of November, 1755, at Lisbon. A sound of thunder was heard underground, and immediately afterwards a violent shock threw down the greater part of that city. In the course of about six minutes, sixty thousand persons perished. The sea first retired and laid the bar dry; it then rolled in, rising fifty feet or more above its ordinary level. The mountains of Arrabida, Estrella, Julio, Marvan, and Cintra, being some of the largest in Portugal, were impetuously shaken, as it were, from their very foundations; and some of them opened at their summits, which were split and rent in a wonderful manner, huge masses of them being thrown down into the subjacent valleys.[680] Flames are related to have issued from these mountains, which are supposed to have been electric; they are also said to have smoked; but vast clouds of dust may have given rise to this appearance.
The area over which this convulsion extended is very remarkable. It has been computed, says Humboldt,[681] that on the 1st November, 1755, a portion of the earth's surface four times greater than the extent of Europe was simultaneously shaken. The shock was felt in the Alps, and on the coast of Sweden, in small inland lakes on the shores of the Baltic, in Thuringia, and in the flat country of northern Germany. The thermal springs of Toplitz dried up, and again returned, inundating every thing with water discolored by ochre. In the islands of Antigua, Barbadoes, and Martinique in the West Indies, where the tide usually rises little more than two feet, it suddenly rose above twenty feet, the water being discolored and of an inky blackness. The movement was also sensible in the great lakes of Canada. At Algiers and Fez, in the north of Africa, the agitation of the earth was as violent as in Spain and Portugal; and at the distance of eight leagues from Morocco, a village with the inhabitants, to the number of about 8000 or 10,000 persons, are said to have been swallowed up; the earth soon afterwards closing over them.
Subsidence of the quay.--Among other extraordinary events related to have occurred at Lisbon during the catastrophe was the subsidence of a new quay, built entirely of marble at an immense expense. A great concourse of people had collected there for safety, as a spot where they might be beyond the reach of falling ruins; but suddenly the quay sank down with all the people on it, and not one of the dead bodies ever floated to the surface. A great number of boats and small vessels anchored near it, all full of people, were swallowed up, as in a whirlpool.[682] No fragments of these wrecks ever rose again to the surface, and the water in the place where the quay had stood is stated, in many accounts, to be unfathomable; but Whitehurst says he ascertained it to be one hundred fathoms.[683]
Circumstantial as are the contemporary narratives, I learn from a correspondent, Mr. F. Freeman, in 1841, that no part of the Tagus was then more than thirty feet deep at high tide, and an examination of the position of the new quay, and the memorials preserved of the time and manner in which it was built, rendered the statement of so great a subsidence in 1755 quite unintelligible. Perhaps a deep narrow chasm, such as was before described in Calabria (p. 481), opened and closed again in the bed of the Tagus, after swallowing up some incumbent buildings and vessels. We have already seen that such openings may collapse after the shock suddenly, or, in places where the strata are of soft and yielding materials, very gradually. According to the observations made at Lisbon, in 1837, by Mr. Sharpe, the destroying effects of this earthquake were confined to the tertiary strata, and were most violent on the blue clay, on which the lower part of the city is constructed. Not a building, he says, on the secondary limestone or the basalt was injured.[684]
Shocks felt at sea.--The shock was felt at sea, on the deck of a ship to the west of Lisbon, and produced very much the same sensation as on dry land. Off St. Lucar, the captain of the ship Nancy felt his vessel so violently shaken, that he thought she had struck the ground; but, on heaving the lead, found a great depth of water. Captain Clark, from Denia, in latitude 36° 24' N., between nine and ten in the morning, had his ship shaken and strained as if she had struck upon a rock, so that the seams of the deck opened, and the compass was overturned in the binnacle. Another ship, forty leagues west of St. Vincent, experienced so violent a concussion, that the men were thrown a foot and a half perpendicularly up from the deck.
Rate at which the movement travelled.--The agitation of lakes, rivers, and springs, in Great Britain, was remarkable. At Loch Lomond, in Scotland, for example, the water, without, the least apparent cause, rose against its banks, and then subsided below its usual level. The greatest perpendicular height of this swell was two feet four inches. It is said that the movement of this earthquake was undulatory, and that it travelled at the rate of twenty miles a minute, its velocity being calculated by the intervals between the time when the first shock was felt at Lisbon, and its time of occurrence at other distant places.[685]
Great wave and retreat of the sea.--A great wave swept over the coast of Spain, and is said to have been sixty feet high at Cadiz. At Tangier, in Africa, it rose and fell eighteen times on the coast. At Funchal, in Madeira, it rose full fifteen feet perpendicular above high-water mark, although the tide, which ebbs and flows there seven feet, was then at half-ebb. Besides entering the city, and committing great havoc, it overflowed other seaports in the island. At Kinsale, in Ireland, a body of water rushed into the harbor, whirled round several vessels, and poured into the market-place.
It was before stated that the sea first retired at Lisbon; and this retreat of the ocean from the shore, at the commencement of an earthquake, and its subsequent return in a violent wave, is a common occurrence. In order to account for the phenomenon, Michell imagined a subsidence at the bottom of the sea, from the giving way of the roof of some cavity in consequence of a vacuum produced by the condensation of steam. Such condensation, he observes, might be the first effect of the introduction of a large body of water into fissures and cavities already filled with steam, before there has been sufficient time for the heat of the incandescent lava to turn so large a supply of water into steam, which being soon accomplished causes a greater explosion.
Another proposed explanation is, the sudden rise of the land, which would cause the sea to abandon immediately the ancient line of coast; and if the shore, after being thus heaved up, should fall again to its original level, the ocean would return. This theory, however, will not account for the facts observed during the Lisbon earthquake; for the retreat preceded the wave, not only on the coast of Portugal, but also at the island of Madeira, and several other places. If the upheaving of the coast of Portugal had caused the retreat, the motion of the waters, when propagated to Madeira, would have produced a wave previous to the retreat. Nor could the motion of the waters at Madeira have been caused by a different local earthquake; for the shock travelled from Lisbon to Madeira in two hours, which agrees with the time which it required to reach other places equally distant.[686]
The following is another solution of the problem, which has been offered:--Suppose a portion of the bed of the sea to be suddenly upheaved; the first effect will be to raise over the elevated part a body of water, the momentum of which will carry it much above the level it will afterwards assume, causing a draught or receding of the water from the neighboring coasts, followed immediately by the return of the displaced water, which will also be impelled by its momentum much farther and higher on the coast than its former level.[687]
Mr. Darwin, when alluding to similar waves on the coast of Chili, states his opinion, that "the whole phenomenon is due to a common undulation in the water, proceeding from a line or point of disturbance some little way distant. If the waves," he says, "sent off from the paddles of a steam-vessel be watched breaking on the sloping shore of a still river, the water will be seen first to retire two or three feet, and then to return in little breakers, precisely analogous to those consequent on an earthquake." He also adds, that "the earthquake-wave occurs some time after the shock, the water at first retiring both from the shores of the mainland and of outlying islands, and then returning in mountainous breakers. Their size is modified by the form of the neighboring coast; for it is ascertained in South America, that places situated at the head of shoaling bays have suffered most, whereas towns like Valparaiso, seated close on the border of a profound ocean, have never been inundated, though severely shaken by earthquakes."[688]
More recently (February, 1846), Mr. Mallet, in his memoir above cited (p. 475), has endeavored to bring to bear on this difficult subject the more advanced knowledge obtained of late years respecting the true theory of waves. He conceives that when the origin of the shock is beneath the deep ocean, one wave is propagated through the land, and another moving with inferior velocity is formed on the surface of the ocean. This last rolls in upon the land long after the earth-wave has arrived and spent itself. However irreconcilable it may be to our common notions of solid bodies, to imagine them capable of transmitting, with such extreme velocity, motions analogous to tidal waves, it seems nevertheless certain that such undulations are produced, and it is supposed that when the shock passes a given point, each particle of the solid earth describes an ellipse in space. The facility with which all the particles of a solid mass can be made to vibrate may be illustrated, says Gay Lussac, by many familiar examples. If we apply the ear to one end of a long wooden beam, and listen attentively when the other end is struck by a pin's head, we hear the shock distinctly; which shows that every fibre throughout the whole length has been made to vibrate. The rattling of carriages on the pavement shakes the largest edifices; and in the quarries underneath some quarters in Paris, it is found that the movement is communicated through a considerable thickness of rock.[689]
The great sea-wave originating directly over the centre of disturbance is propagated, as Michell correctly stated, in every direction, like the circle upon a pond when a pebble is dropped into it, the different rates at which it moves depending (as he also suggested) on variations in the depth of the water. This wave of the sea, says Mr. Mallet, is raised by the impulse of the shock immediately below it, which in great earthquakes lifts up the ground two or three feet perpendicularly. The velocity of the shock, or earth-wave, is greater because it "depends upon a function of the elasticity of the crust of the earth, whereas the velocity of the sea-wave depends upon a function of the depth of the sea."
"Although the shock in its passage under the deep ocean gives no trace of its progress, it no sooner gets into soundings or shallow water, than it gives rise to another and smaller wave of the sea. It carries, as it were, upon its back, this lesser aqueous undulation; a long narrow ridge of water which corresponds in form and velocity to itself, being pushed up by the partial elevation of the bottom. It is this small wave, called technically the 'forced sea-wave,' which communicates the earthquake-shock to ships at sea, as if they had struck upon a rock. It breaks upon a coast at the same moment that the shock reaches it, and sometimes it may cause an apparent slight recession from the shore, followed by its flowing up somewhat higher than the usual tide mark: this will happen where the beach is very sloping, as is usual where the sea is shallow, for then the velocity of the low flat earth-wave is such, that it slips as it were, from under the undulation in the fluid above. It does this at the moment of reaching the beach, which it elevates by a vertical height equal to its own, and as instantly lets drop again to its former level."
"While the shock propagated through the solid earth has thus travelled with extra rapidity to the land, the great sea-wave has been following at a slower pace, though advancing at the rate of several miles in a minute. It consists, in the deep ocean, of a long low swell of enormous volume, having an equal slope before and behind, and that so gentle that it might pass under a ship without being noticed. But when it reaches the edge of soundings, its front slope, like that of a tidal wave under similar circumstances, becomes short and steep, while its rear slope is long and gentle. If there be water of some depth close into shore, this great wave may roll in long after the shock, and do little damage; but if the shore be shelving, there will be first a retreat of the water, and then the wave will break upon the beach and roll in far upon the land."[690]
The various opinions which have been offered by Michell and later writers, respecting the remote causes of earthquake shocks in the interior of the earth, will more properly be discussed in the thirty-second chapter.
Chili, 1751.--On the 24th of May, 1751, the ancient town of Conception, otherwise called Penco, was totally destroyed by an earthquake, and the sea rolled over it. (See plan of the bay, fig. 70, p. 455.) The ancient port was rendered entirely useless, and the inhabitants built another town about ten miles from the sea-coast, in order to be beyond the reach of similar inundations. At the same time, a colony recently settled on the sea-shore of Juan Fernandez was almost entirely overwhelmed by a wave which broke upon the shore.
It has been already stated, that in 1835, or eighty-four years after the destruction of Penco, the same coast was overwhelmed by a similar flood from the sea during an earthquake; and it is also known that twenty-one years before (or in 1730), a like wave rolled over these fated shores, in which many of the inhabitants perished. A series of similar catastrophes has also been tracked back as far as the year 1590,[691] beyond which we have no memorials save those of oral tradition. Molina, who has recorded the customs and legends of the aborigines, tells us, that the Araucanian Indians, a tribe inhabiting the country between the Andes and the Pacific, including the part now called Chili, "had among them a tradition of a great deluge, in which only a few persons were saved, who took refuge upon a high mountain called Thegtheg, "the thundering," which had three points. Whenever a violent earthquake occurs, these people fly for safety to the mountains, assigning as a reason, that they are fearful, after the shock, that the sea will again return and deluge the world.[692]
Notwithstanding the tendency of writers in his day to refer all traditionary inundations to one remote period, Molina remarks that this flood of the Araucanians "was probably very different from that of Noah." We have, indeed, no means of conjecturing how long this same tribe had flourished in Chili, but we can scarcely doubt, that if its experience reached back even for three or four centuries, several inroads of the ocean must have occurred within that period. But the memory of a succession of physical events, similar in kind, though distinct in time, can never be preserved by a people destitute of written annals. Before two or three generations have passed away all dates are forgotten, and even the events themselves, unless they have given origin to some customs, or religious rites and ceremonies. Oftentimes the incidents of many different earthquakes and floods become blended together in the same narrative; and in such cases the single catastrophe is described in terms so exaggerated, or is so disguised by mythological fictions, as to be utterly valueless to the antiquary or philosopher.
Proofs of elevation of twenty-four feet.--During a late survey of Conception Bay, Captain Beechey and Sir E. Belcher discovered that the ancient harbor, which formerly admitted all large merchant vessels which went round the Cape, is now occupied by a reef of sandstone, certain points of which project above the sea at low water, the greater part being very shallow. A tract of a mile and a half in length, where, according to the report of the inhabitants, the water was formerly four or five fathoms deep, is now a shoal; consisting, as our hydrographers found, of hard sandstone, so that it cannot be supposed to have been formed by recent deposits of the river Biobio, an arm of which carries down loose micaceous sand into the same bay.
It is impossible at this distance of time to affirm that the bed of the sea was uplifted at once to the height of twenty-four feet, during the single earthquake of 1751, because other movements may have occurred subsequently; but it is said, that ever since the shock of 1751, no vessels have been able to approach within a mile and a half of the ancient port of Penco. (See Map, p. 455.) In proof of the former elevation of the coast near Penco our surveyors found above high-water mark an enormous bed of shells of the same species as those now living in the bay, filled with micaceous sand like that which the Biobio now conveys to the bay. These shells, as well as others, which cover the adjoining hills of mica-schist to the height of several hundred feet, have lately been examined by experienced conchologists in London, and identified with those taken at the same time in a living state from the bay and its neighborhood.[693]
Ulloa, therefore, was perfectly correct in his statement that, at various heights above the sea between Talcahuano and Conception, "mines were found of various sorts of shells used for lime of the very same kinds as those found in the adjoining sea." Among them he mentions the great mussel called Choros, and two others which he describes. Some of these, he says, are entire, and others broken; they occur at the bottom of the sea, in four, six, ten, or twelve fathom water, where they adhere to a sea-plant called Cochayuyo. They are taken in dredges, and have no resemblance to those found on the shore or in shallow water; yet beds of them occur at various heights on the hills. "I was the more pleased with the sight," he adds, "as it appeared to me a convincing proof of the universality of the deluge, although I am not ignorant that some have attributed their position to other causes."[694] It has, however, been ascertained that the foundation of the Castle of Penco was so low in 1835, or at so inconsiderable an elevation above the highest spring tides, as to discountenance the idea of any permanent upheaval in modern times, on the site of that ancient port; but no exact measurements or levellings appear as yet to have been made to determine this point, which is the more worthy of investigation, because it may throw some light on an opinion often promulgated of late years, that there is a tendency in the Chilian coast, after each upheaval, to sink gradually and return towards its former position.
Peru, 1746.--Peru was visited, on the 28th of October, 1746, by a tremendous earthquake. In the first twenty-four hours, two hundred shocks were experienced. The ocean twice retired and returned impetuously upon the land: Lima was destroyed, and part of the coast near Callao was converted into a bay: four other harbors, among which were Cavalla and Guanape, shared the same fate. There were twenty-three ships and vessels, great and small, in the harbor of Callao, of which nineteen were sunk; and the other four, among which was a frigate called St. Fermin, were carried by the force of the waves to a great distance up the country, and left on dry ground at a considerable height above the sea. The number of inhabitants in this city amounted to four thousand. Two hundred only escaped, twenty-two of whom were saved on a small fragment of the fort of Vera Cruz, which remained as the only memorial of the town after this dreadful inundation. Other portions of its site were completely covered with heaps of sand and gravel.
A volcano in Lucanas burst forth the same night, and such quantities of water descended from the cone that the whole country was overflowed; and in the mountain near Pataz, called Conversiones de Caxamarquilla, three other volcanoes burst out, and frightful torrents of water swept down their sides.[695]
There are several records of prior convulsions in Peru, accompanied by similar inroads in the sea, one of which happened fifty-nine years before (in 1687), when the ocean, according to Ulloa, first retired and then returned in a mountainous wave, overwhelming Callao and its environs, with the miserable inhabitants.[696] This same wave, according to Lionel Wafer, carried ships a league into the country, and drowned man and beast for fifty leagues along the shore.[697] Inundations of still earlier dates are carefully recorded by Ulloa, Wafer, Acosta, and various writers, who describe them as having expended their chief fury, some on one part of the coast and some on another.
But all authentic accounts cease when we ascend to the era of the conquest of Peru by the Spaniards. The ancient Peruvians, although far removed from barbarism, were without written annals, and therefore unable to preserve a distinct recollection of a long series of natural events. They had, however, according to Antonio de Herrera, who, in the beginning of the seventeenth century, investigated their antiquities, a tradition, "that many years before the reign of the Incas, at a time when the country was very populous, there happened a great flood; the sea breaking out beyond its bounds, so that the land was covered with water and all the people perished. To this the Guacas, inhabiting the vale of Xausca, and the natives of Chiquito, in the province of Callao, add that some persons remained in the hollows and caves of the highest mountains, who again peopled the land. Others of the mountain people affirm that all perished in the deluge, only six persons being saved on a float, from whom descended all the inhabitants of that country."[698]
On the mainland near Lima, and on the neighboring island of San Lorenzo, Mr. Darwin found proofs that the ancient bed of the sea had been raised to the height of more than eighty feet above water within the human epoch, strata having been discovered at that altitude, containing pieces of cotton thread and plaited rush, together with sea-weed and marine shells.[699] The same author learnt from Mr. Gill, a civil engineer, that he discovered in the interior near Lima, between Casma and Huaraz, the dried-up channel of a large river, sometimes worn through solid rock, which, instead of continually ascending towards its source, has, in one place, a steep downward slope in that direction, for a ridge or line of hills has been uplifted directly across the bed of the stream, which is now arched. By these changes the water has been turned into some other course; and a district, once fertile, and still covered with ruins, and bearing the marks of ancient cultivation, has been converted into a desert.[700]
Java, 1699.--On the 5th of January, 1699, a terrible earthquake visited Java, and no less than 208 considerable shocks were reckoned. Many houses in Batavia were overturned, and the flame and noise of a volcanic eruption were seen and heard in that city, which were afterwards found to proceed from Mount Salek,[701] a volcano six days' journey distant. Next morning the Batavian river, which has its rise from that mountain, became very high and muddy, and brought down abundance of bushes and trees, half burnt. The channel of the river being stopped up, the water overflowed the country round the gardens about the town, and some of the streets, so that fishes lay dead in them. All the fish in the river, except the carps, were killed by the mud and turbid water. A great number of drowned buffaloes, tigers, rhinoceroses, deer, apes, and other wild beasts, were brought down by the current; and, "notwithstanding," observes one of the writers, "that a crocodile is amphibious, several of them were found dead among the rest."[702]
It is stated that seven hills bounding the river sank down; by which is merely meant, as by similar expressions in the description of the Calabrian earthquakes, seven great landslips. These hills, descending some from one side of the valley and some from the other, filled the channel, and the waters then finding their way under the mass, flowed out thick and muddy. The Tangaran river was also dammed up by nine hills, and in its channel were large quantities of drift trees. Seven of its tributaries also are said to have been "covered up with earth." A high tract of forest land, between the two great rivers before mentioned, is described as having been changed into an open country, destitute of trees, the surface being spread over with fine red clay. This part of the account may, perhaps, merely refer to the sliding down of woody tracts into the valleys, as happened to so many extensive vineyards and olive-grounds in Calabria, in 1783. The close packing of large trees in the Batavian river is represented as very remarkable, and it attests in a striking manner the destruction of soil bordering the valleys which had been caused by floods and landslips.[703]
Quito, 1698.--In Quito, on the 19th of July, 1698, during an earthquake, a great part of the crater and summit of the volcano Carguairazo fell in, and a stream of water and mud issued from the broken sides of the hill.[704]
Sicily, 1693.--Shocks of earthquakes spread over all Sicily in 1693, and on the 11th of January the city of Catania and forty-nine other places were levelled to the ground, and about one hundred thousand people killed. The bottom of the sea, says Vicentino Bonajutus, sank down considerably, both in ports, inclosed bays, and open parts of the coast, and water bubbled up along the shores. Numerous long fissures of various breadths were caused, which threw out sulphurous water; and one of them, in the plain of Catania (the delta of the Simeto), at the distance of four miles from the sea, sent forth water as salt as the sea. The stone buildings of a street in the city of Noto, for the length of half a mile, sank into the ground, and remained hanging on one side. In another street, an opening large enough to swallow a man and horse appeared.[705]
Moluccas, 1693.--The small Isle of Sorea, which consists of one great volcano, was in eruption in the year 1693. Different parts of the cone fell, one after the other, into a deep crater, until almost half the space of the island was converted into a fiery lake. Most of the inhabitants fled to Banda; but great pieces of the mountain continued to fall down, so that the lake of lava became wider; and finally the whole population was compelled to emigrate. It is stated that, in proportion as the burning lake increased in size, the earthquakes were less vehement.[706]
Jamaica, 1692.--In the year 1692, the island of Jamaica was visited by a violent earthquake; the ground swelled and heaved like a rolling sea, and was traversed by numerous cracks, two or three hundred of which were often seen at a time, opening and then closing rapidly again. Many people were swallowed up in these rents; some the earth caught by the middle, and squeezed to death; the heads of others only appeared above ground; and some were first engulfed, and then cast up again with great quantities of water. Such was the devastation, that even in Port Royal, then the capital, where more houses are said to have been left standing than in the whole island besides, three-quarters of the buildings, together with the ground they stood on, sank down with their inhabitants entirely under water.
Subsidence in the harbor.--The large storehouses on the harbor side subsided, so as to be twenty-four, thirty-six, and forty-eight feet under water; yet many of them appear to have remained standing, for it is stated that, after the earthquake, the mast-heads of several ships wrecked in the harbor, together with the chimney-tops of houses, were just seen projecting above the waves. A tract of land round the town, about a thousand acres in extent, sank down in less than one minute, during the first shock, and the sea immediately rolled in. The Swan frigate, which was repairing in the wharf, was driven over the tops of many buildings, and then thrown upon one of the roofs, through which it broke. The breadth of one of the streets is said to have been doubled by the earthquake.
According to Sir H. De la Beche, the part of Port Royal described as having sunk was built upon newly formed land, consisting of sand, in which piles had been driven; and the settlement of this loose sand, charged with the weight of heavy houses, may, he suggests, have given rise to the subsidence alluded to.[707]
There have undoubtedly been instances in Calabria and elsewhere of slides of land on which the houses have still remained standing; and it is possible that such may have been the case at Port Royal. The fact at least of submergence is unquestionable, for I was informed by the late Admiral Sir Charles Hamilton that he frequently saw the submerged houses of Port Royal in the year 1780, in that part of the harbor which lies between the town and the usual anchorage of men-of-war. Bryan Edwards also says, in his history of the West Indies, that in 1793 the ruins were visible in clear weather from the boats which sailed over them.[708] Lastly, Lieutenant B. Jeffery, R. N., tells me that, being engaged in a survey between the years 1824 and 1835, he repeatedly visited the site in question, where the depth of the water is from four to six fathoms, and whenever there was but little wind perceived distinct traces of houses. He saw these more clearly when he used the instrument called the "diver's eye," which is let down below the ripple of the wave.[709]
At several thousand places in Jamaica the earth is related to have opened. On the north of the island several plantations, with their inhabitants, were swallowed up, and a lake appeared in their place, covering above a thousand acres, which afterwards dried up, leaving nothing but sand and gravel, without the least sign that there had ever been a house or a tree there. Several tenements at Yallows were buried under land-slips; and one plantation was removed half a mile from its place, the crops continuing to grow upon it uninjured. Between Spanish Town and Sixteen-mile Walk, the high and perpendicular cliffs bounding the river fell in, stopped the passage of the river and flooded the latter place for nine days, so that the people "concluded it had been sunk as Port Royal was." But the flood at length subsided, for the river had found some new passage at a great distance.
Mountains shattered.--The Blue and other of the highest mountains are declared to have been strangely torn and rent. They appeared shattered and half-naked, no longer affording a fine green prospect, as before, but stripped of their woods and natural verdure. The rivers on these mountains first ceased to flow for about twenty-four hours, and then brought down into the sea, at Port Royal and other places, several hundred thousand tons of timber, which looked like floating islands on the ocean. The trees were in general barked, most of their branches having been torn off in the descent. It is particularly remarked in this, as in the narratives of so many earthquakes, that fish were taken in great numbers on the coast during the shocks. The correspondents of Sir Hans Sloane, who collected with care the accounts of eye-witnesses of the catastrophe, refer constantly to subsidences, and some supposed the whole of Jamaica to have sunk down.[710]
Reflections on the amount of change in the last one hundred and sixty years.--I have now only enumerated some few of the earthquakes of the last 160 years, respecting which facts illustrative of geological inquiries are on record. Even if my limits permitted, it would be an unprofitable task to examine all the obscure and ambiguous narratives of similar events of earlier epochs; although, if the places were now examined by geologists well practised in the art of interpreting the monuments of physical changes, many events which have happened within the historical era might doubtless be still determined with precision. It must not be imagined that, in the above sketch of the occurrences of a short period, I have given an account of all, or even the greater part, of the mutations which the earth has undergone by the agency of subterranean movements. Thus, for example, the earthquake of Aleppo, in the present century, and of Syria, in the middle of the eighteenth, would doubtless have afforded numerous phenomena, of great geological importance, had those catastrophes been described by scientific observers. The shocks in Syria in 1759, were protracted for three months, throughout a space of ten thousand square leagues: an area compared to which that of the Calabrian earthquake in 1783 was insignificant. Accon, Saphat, Balbeck, Damascus, Sidon, Tripoli, and many other places, were almost entirely levelled to the ground. Many thousands of the inhabitants perished in each; and, in the valley of Balbeck alone, 20,000 men are said to have been victims to the convulsion. In the absence of scientific accounts, it would be as irrelevant to our present purpose to enter into a detailed account of such calamities, as to follow the track of an invading army, to enumerate the cities burnt or rased to the ground, and reckon the number of individuals who perished by famine or the sword.
Deficiency of historical records.--If such, then, be the amount of ascertained changes in the last 160 years, notwithstanding the extreme deficiency of our records during that brief period, how important must we presume the physical revolutions to have been in the course of thirty or forty centuries, during which some countries habitually convulsed by earthquakes have been peopled by civilized nations! Towns engulfed during one earthquake may, by repeated shocks, have sunk to great depths beneath the surface, while the ruins remain as imperishable as the hardest rocks in which they are inclosed. Buildings and cities, submerged, for a time, beneath seas or lakes, and covered with sedimentary deposits, must, in some places, have been re-elevated to considerable heights above the level of the ocean. The signs of these events have, probably, been rendered visible by subsequent mutations, as by the encroachments of the sea upon the coast, by deep excavations made by torrents and rivers, by the opening of new ravines, and chasms, and other effects of natural agents, so active in districts agitated by subterranean movements.
If it be asked why, if such wonderful monuments exist, so few have hitherto been brought to light, we reply--because they have not been searched for. In order to rescue from oblivion the memorials of former occurrences, the inquirer must know what he may reasonably expect to discover, and under what peculiar local circumstances. He must be acquainted with the action and effect of physical causes, in order to recognize, explain, and describe correctly the phenomena when they present themselves.
The best known of the great volcanic regions, of which the boundaries were sketched in the twenty-second chapter, is that which includes Southern Europe, Northern Africa, and Central Asia; yet nearly the whole, even of this region, must be laid down, in a geological map, as "Terra Incognita." Even Calabria may be regarded as unexplored, as also Spain, Portugal, the Barbary States, the Ionian Isles, Asia Minor, Cyprus, Syria, and the countries between the Caspian and Black seas. We are, in truth, beginning to obtain some insight into one small spot of that great zone of volcanic disturbance, the district around Naples; a tract by no means remarkable for the violence of the earthquakes which have convulsed it.
If, in this part of Campania, we are enabled to establish that considerable changes in the relative level of land and sea have taken place since the Christian era, it is all that we could have expected; and it is to recent antiquarian and geological research, not to history, that we are principally indebted for the information. I shall now proceed to lay before the reader some of the results of modern investigations in the Bay of Baiæ and the adjoining coast.
PROOFS OF ELEVATION AND SUBSIDENCE IN THE BAY OF BAIÆ.
Temple of Jupiter Serapis.--This celebrated monument of antiquity, a representation of which is given in the frontispiece,[711] affords in itself alone, unequivocal evidence that the relative level of land and sea has changed twice at Puzzuoli since the Christian era; and each movement, both of elevation and subsidence, has exceeded twenty feet. Before examining these proofs, I may observe, that a geological examination of the coast of Baiæ, both on the north and south of Puzzuoli, establishes, in the most satisfactory manner, an elevation, at no remote period, of more than twenty feet, and, at one point, of more than thirty feet; and the evidence of this change would have been complete, if even the temple had, to this day, remained undiscovered.
Coast south of Puzzuoli.--If we coast along the shore from Naples to Puzzuoli, we find, on approaching the latter place, that the lofty and precipitous cliffs of indurated tuff, resembling that of which Naples is built, retire slightly from the sea; and that a low level tract of fertile land, of a very different aspect, intervenes between the present sea-beach and what was evidently the ancient line of coast.
The inland cliff may be seen opposite the small island of Nisida, about two miles and a half southeast of Puzzuoli (see Map, fig. 40, p. 361), where, at the height of thirty-two feet above the level of the sea, Mr. Babbage observed an ancient mark, such as might have been worn by the waves; and, upon farther examination, discovered that, along that line, the face of the perpendicular rock, consisting of very hard tuff, was covered with barnacles (Balanus sulcatus, Lamk.), and drilled by boring testacea. Some of the hollows of the lithodomi contained the shells; while others were filled with the valves of a species of Area.[712] Nearer to Puzzuoli, the inland cliff is eighty feet high, and as perpendicular as if it was still undermined by the waves. At its base, a new deposit, constituting the fertile tract above alluded to, attains a height of about twenty feet above the sea; and, since it is composed of regular sedimentary deposits, containing marine shells, its position proves that, subsequently to its formation, there has been a change of more than twenty feet in the relative level of land and sea.
The sea encroaches on these new incoherent strata; and as the soil is valuable, a wall has been built for its protection; but when I visited the spot in 1828, the waves had swept away part of this rampart, and exposed to view a regular series of strata of tuff, more or less argillaceous, alternating with beds of pumice and lapilli, and containing great abundance of marine shells, of species now common on this coast, and amongst them Cardium rusticum, Ostrea edulis, Donax trunculus, Lamk., and others. The strata vary from about a foot to a foot and a half in thickness, and one of them contains abundantly remains of works of art, tiles, squares of mosaic pavement of different colors, and small sculptured ornaments, perfectly uninjured. Intermixed with these I collected some teeth of the pig and ox. These fragments of building occur below as well as above strata containing marine shells. Puzzuoli itself stands chiefly on a promontory of the older tufaceous formation, which cuts off the new deposit, although I detected a small patch of the latter in a garden under the town.
From the town the ruins of a mole, called Caligula's Bridge, run out into the sea (see fig. 88, p. 509).[713] This mole, which is believed to be eighteen centuries old, consists of a number of piers and arches, thirteen of which are now standing, and two others appear to have been overthrown. Mr. Babbage found, on the sixth pier, perforations of lithodomi four feet above the level of the sea; and, near the termination of the mole on the last pier but one, marks of the same, ten feet above the level of the sea, together with great numbers of balani and flustra. The depth of the sea, at a very small distance from most of the piers, is from thirty to fifty feet.
Coast north of Puzzuoli.--If we then pass to the north of Puzzuoli, and examine the coast between that town and Monte Nuovo, we find a repetition of analogous phenomena. The sloping sides of Monte Barbaro slant down within a short distance of the coast, and terminate in an inland cliff of moderate elevation, to which the geologist perceives at once that the sea must, at some former period, have extended. Between this cliff and the sea is a low plain or terrace, called La Starza (c, fig. 89), corresponding to that before described on the southeast of the town; and as the sea encroaches rapidly, fresh sections of the strata may readily be obtained, of which the annexed is an example.
Section on the shore north of the town of Puzzuoli:--
Ft. In.
1. Vegetable soil 1 0
2. Horizontal beds of pumice and scoriæ, with broken fragments of unrolled bricks, bones of animals, and marine shells 1 6
3. Beds of lapilli, containing abundance of marine shells, principally Cardium rusticum, Donax trunculus, Lam., Ostrea edulis, Triton cutaceum, Lam., and Buccinum serratum, Brocchi, the beds varying in thickness from one to eighteen inches 10 0
4. Argillaceous tuff, containing bricks and fragments of buildings not rounded by attrition. 1 6
The thickness of many of these beds varies greatly as we trace them along the shore, and sometimes the whole group rises to a greater height than at the point above described. The surface of the tract which they compose appears to slope gently upwards towards the base of the old cliffs.
Now, if such appearances presented themselves on the coast of England, a geologist might endeavor to seek an explanation in some local change in the set of the tides and currents: but there are scarce any tides in the Mediterranean; and, to suppose the sea to have sunk generally from twenty to twenty-five feet since the shores of Campania were covered with sumptuous buildings is an hypothesis obviously untenable. The observations, indeed, made during modern surveys on the moles and cothons (docks) constructed by the ancients in various ports of the Mediterranean, have proved that there has been no sensible variation of level in that sea during the last two thousand years.[715]
Thus we arrive, without the aid of the celebrated temple, at the conclusion, that the recent marine deposit at Puzzuoli was upraised in modern times above the level of the sea, and that not only this change of position, but the accumulation of the modern strata, was posterior to the destruction of many edifices, of which they contain the imbedded remains. If we next examine the evidence afforded by the temple itself, it appears, from the most authentic accounts, that the three pillars now standing erect continued, down to the middle of the last century, almost buried in the new marine strata (c, fig. 89). The upper part of each protruding several feet above the surface was concealed by bushes, and had not attracted, until the year 1749, the notice of antiquaries; but, when the soil was removed in 1750, they were seen to form part of the remains of a splendid edifice, the pavement of which was still preserved, and upon it lay a number of columns of African breccia and of granite. The original plan of the building could be traced distinctly: it was of a quadrangular form, seventy feet in diameter, and the roof had been supported by forty-six noble columns, twenty-four of granite and the rest of marble. The large court was surrounded by apartments, supposed to have been used as bathing-rooms; for a thermal spring, still used for medicinal purposes, issues just behind the building, and the water of this spring appears to have been originally conveyed by a marble duct, still extant, into the chambers, and then across the pavement by a groove an inch or two deep, to a conduit made of Roman brickwork, by which it gained the sea.
Many antiquaries have entered into elaborate discussions as to the deity to which this edifice was consecrated. It is admitted that, among other images found in excavating the ruins, there was one of the god Serapis; and at Puzzuoli a marble column was dug up, on which was carved an ancient inscription, of the date of the building of Rome 648 (or B. C. 105), entitled "Lex parieti faciundo." This inscription, written in very obscure Latin, sets forth a contract, between the municipality of the town, and a company of builders who undertook to keep in repair certain public edifices, the Temple of Serapis being mentioned amongst the rest, and described as being near or towards the sea, "mare vorsum." Sir Edmund Head, after studying, in 1828, the topography and antiquities of this district, and the Greek, Roman, and Italian writers on the subject, informed me, that at Alexandria, on the Nile, the chief seat of the worship of Serapis, there was a Serapeum of the same form as this temple at Puzzuoli, and surrounded in like manner by chambers, in which the devotees were accustomed to pass the night, in the hope of receiving during sleep a revelation from the god, as to the nature and cure of their diseases. Hence it was very natural that the priests of Serapis, a pantheistic divinity, who, among other usurpations, had appropriated to himself the attributes of Esculapius, should regard the hot spring as a suitable appendage to the temple, although the original Serapeum of Alexandria could boast no such medicinal waters. Signor Carelli[716] and others, in objecting to these views, have insisted on the fact, that the worship of Serapis, which we know prevailed at Rome in the days of Catullus (in the first century before Christ), was prohibited by the Roman Senate, during the reign of the Emperor Tiberius. But there is little doubt that, during the reigns of that emperor's successors, the shrines of the Egyptian god were again thronged by zealous votaries; and in no place more so than at Puteoli (now Puzzuoli), one of the principal marts for the produce of Alexandria.
Without entering farther into an inquiry which is not strictly geological, I shall designate this valuable relic of antiquity by its generally received name, and proceed to consider the memorials of physical changes inscribed on the three standing columns in most legible characters by the hand of Nature. (See Frontispiece.) These pillars, which have been carved each out of a single block of marble, are forty feet three inches and a half in height. A horizontal fissure nearly intersects one of the columns; the other two are entire. They are all slightly out of the perpendicular, inclining somewhat to the southwest, that is, towards the sea.[717] Their surface is smooth and uninjured to the height of about twelve feet above their pedestals. Above this is a zone, about nine feet in height, where the marble has been pierced by a species of marine perforating bivalve--Lithodomus, Cuv.[718] The holes of these animals are pear-shaped, the external opening being minute, and gradually increasing downwards. At the bottom of the cavities, many shells are still found, notwithstanding the great numbers that have been taken out by visitors; in many the valves of a species of arca, an animal which conceals itself in small hollows, occur. The perforations are so considerable in depth and size, that they manifest a long-continued abode of the lithodomi in the columns, for, as the inhabitant grows older and increases in size, it bores a larger cavity, to correspond with the increased magnitude of its shell. We must, consequently, infer a long-continued immersion of the pillars in sea-water, at a time when the lower part was covered up and protected by marine, fresh-water, and volcanic strata, afterwards to be described, and by the rubbish of buildings; the highest part, at the same time, projecting above the waters, and being consequently weathered, but not materially injured. (See fig. 90, p. 514.)
On the pavement of the temple lie some columns of marble, which are also perforated in certain parts; one, for example, to the length of eight feet, while, for the length of four feet, it is uninjured. Several of these broken columns are eaten into, not only on the exterior, but on the cross fracture, and, on some of them, other marine animals (serpulæ, &c.) have fixed themselves.[719] All the granite pillars are untouched by lithodomi. The platform of the temple, which is not perfectly even, was, when I visited it in 1828, about one foot below high-water mark (for there are small tides in the bay of Naples); and the sea, which was only one hundred feet distant, soaked through the intervening soil. The upper part of the perforations, therefore, were at least twenty-three feet above high-water mark; and it is clear that the columns must have continued for a long time in an erect position, immersed in salt water, and then the submerged portion must have been upraised to the height of about twenty-three feet above the level of the sea.
By excavations carried on in 1828, below the marble pavement on which the columns stand, another costly pavement of mosaic was found, at the depth of about five feet below the upper one (a, b, fig. 90). The existence of these two pavements, at different levels, clearly implies some subsidence previously to the building of the more modern temple which had rendered it necessary to construct the new floor at a higher level.
We have already seen (p. 512) that a temple of Serapis existed long before the Christian era. The change of level just mentioned must have taken place some time before the end of the second century, for inscriptions have been found in the temple, from which we learn that Septimius Severus adorned its walls with precious marbles, between the years 194 and 211 of our era, and the emperor Alexander Severus displayed the like munificence between the years 222 and 235.[720] From that era there is an entire dearth of historical information for a period of more than twelve centuries, except the significant fact that Alaric and his Goths sacked Puzzuoli in 456, and that Genseric did the like in 545, A. D. Yet we have fortunately a series of natural archives self-registered during the dark ages, by which many events which occurred in and about the temple are revealed to us. These natural records consist partly of deposits, which envelop the pillars below the zone of lithodomous perforations, and partly of those which surround the outer walls of the temple. Mr. Babbage, after a minute examination of these, has shown (see p. 507, note) that incrustations on the walls of the exterior chambers and on the floor of the building demonstrate that the pavement did not sink down suddenly, but was depressed by a gradual movement. The sea first entered the court or atrium and mingled its waters partially with those of the hot spring. From this brackish medium a dark calcareous precipitate (c c, fig. 90) was thrown down, which became, in the course of time, more than two feet thick, including some serpulæ in it. The presence of these annelids teaches us that the water was salt or brackish. After this period the temple was filled up with an irregular mass of volcanic tuff (d d, fig. 90), probably derived from an eruption of the neighboring crater of the Solfatara, to the height of from five to nine feet above the pavement. Over this again a purely freshwater deposit of carbonate of lime (e e, fig. 90) accumulated with an uneven bottom since it necessarily accommodated itself to the irregular outline of the upper surface of the volcanic shower before thrown down. The top of the same deposit (a freshwater limestone) was perfectly even and flat, bespeaking an ancient water level. It is suggested by Mr. Babbage that this freshwater lake may have been caused by the fall of ashes which choked up the channel previously communicating with the sea, so that the hot spring threw down calcareous matter in the atrium, without any marine intermixture. To the freshwater limestone succeeded another irregular mass of volcanic ashes and rubbish (f f, fig. 90), some of it perhaps washed in by the waves of the sea during a storm, its surface rising to ten or eleven feet above the pavement. And thus we arrive at the period of greatest depression expressed in the accompanying diagram, when the lower half of the pillars were enveloped in the deposits above enumerated, and the uppermost twenty feet were exposed in the atmosphere, the remaining or middle portion, about nine feet long, being for years immersed in salt water and drilled by perforating bivalves. After this period other strata, consisting of showers of volcanic ashes and materials washed in during storms, covered up the pillars to the height in some places of thirty-five feet above the pavement. The exact time when these enveloping masses were heaped up, and how much of them were formed during submergence, and how much after the re-elevation of the temple, cannot be made out with certainty.
The period of deep submergence was certainly antecedent to the close of the fifteenth century. Professor James Forbes[721] has reminded us of a passage in an old Italian writer Loffredo, who says that in 1530, or fifty years before he wrote, which was in 1580, the sea washed the base of the hills which rise from the flat land called La Starza, as represented in fig. 90, so that, to quote his words, "a person might then have fished from the site of those ruins which are now called the stadium" (A, fig. 90).
But we know from other evidence that the upward movement had begun before 1530, for the Canonico Andrea di Jorio cites two authentic documents in illustration of this point. The first, dated Oct. 1503, is a deed written in Italian, by which Ferdinand and Isabella grant to the University of Puzzuoli a portion of land, "where the sea is drying up" (che va seccando el mare); the second, a document in Latin, dated May 23, 1511, or nearly eight years after, by which Ferdinand grants to the city a certain territory around Puzzuoli, where the ground is dried up from the sea (desiccatum).[722]
The principal elevation, however, of the low tract unquestionably took place at the time of the great eruption of Monte Nuovo in 1538. That event and the earthquakes which preceded it have been already described (p. 368); and we have seen that two of the eye-witnesses of the convulsion, Falconi and Giacomo di Toledo, agree in declaring that the sea abandoned a considerable tract of the shore, so that fish were taken by the inhabitants; and, among other things, Falconi mentions that he saw two springs in the newly discovered ruins.
The flat land, when first upraised, must have been more extensive than now, for the sea encroaches somewhat rapidly, both to the north and southeast of Puzzuoli. The coast had, when I examined it in 1828, given way more than a foot in a twelvemonth; and I was assured, by fishermen in the bay, that it has lost ground near Puzzuoli, to the extent of thirty feet, within their memory.
It is, moreover, very probable that the land rose to a greater height at first before it ceased to move upwards, than the level at which it was observed to stand when the temple was rediscovered in 1749, for we learn from a memoir, of Niccolini, published in 1838, that since the beginning of the nineteenth century, the temple of Serapis has subsided more than two feet. That learned architect visited the ruins frequently, for the sake of making drawings, in the beginning of the year 1807, and was in the habit of remaining there throughout the day, yet never saw the pavement overflowed by the sea, except occasionally when the south wind blew violently. On his return, sixteen years after, to superintend some excavations ordered by the king of Naples, he found the pavement covered by sea-water twice every day at high tide, so that he was obliged to place there a line of stones to stand upon. This induced him to make a series of observations from Oct. 1822 to July 1838, by which means he ascertained that the ground had been and was sinking, at the average rate of about seven millimetres a year, or about one inch in four years; so that, in 1838, fish were caught every day on that part of the pavement where, in 1807, there was never a drop of water in calm weather.[723]
On inquiring still more recently as to the condition of the temple and the continuance of the sinking of the ground, I learn from Signor Scacchi in a letter, dated June 1852, that the downward movement has ceased for several years, or has at least become almost inappreciable. During an examination undertaken by him at my request in the summer of that year (1852), he observed that the rising tide spread first over the seaward side of the flat surface of the pedestals of each column (confirming the fact previously noticed by others, that they are out of the perpendicular); and he also remarked that the water gained unequally on the base of each pillar, in such a manner as to prove that they have neither the same amount of inclination, nor lean precisely in the same direction.
From what was said before (p. 510), we saw that the marine shells in the strata forming the plain called La Starza, considered separately, establish the fact of an upheaval of the ground to the height of twenty-three feet and upwards. The temple proves much more, because it could not have been built originally under water, and must therefore first have sunk down twenty feet at least below the waves, to be afterwards restored to its original position. Yet if such was the order of events we ought to meet with other independent signs of a like subsidence round the margin of a bay once so studded with buildings as the Bay of Baiæ. Accordingly memorials of such submergence are not wanting. About a mile northwest of the temple of Serapis, and about 500 feet from the shore, are the ruins of a temple of Neptune and others of a temple of the Nymphs, now underwater. The columns of the former edifice stand erect in five feet of water, their upper portions just rising to the surface of the sea. The pedestals are doubtless buried in the sand or mud; so that, if this part of the bottom of the bay should hereafter be elevated, the exhumation of these temples might take place after the manner of that of Serapis. Both these buildings probably participated in the movement which raised the Starza; but either they were deeper under water than the temple of Serapis, or they were not raised up again to so great a height. There are also two Roman roads under water in the bay, one reaching from Puzzuoli to the Lucrine Lake, which may still be seen, and the other near the castle of Baiæ (No. 8, fig. 88, p. 509). The ancient mole, too, of Puzzuoli (No. 4, ibid.) before alluded to, has the water up to a considerable height of the arches; whereas Brieslak justly observes, it is next to certain that the piers must formerly have reached the surface before the springing of the arches;[724] so that, although the phenomena before described prove that this mole has been uplifted ten feet above the level at which it once stood, it is still evident that it has not yet been restored to its original position.
A modern writer also reminds us, that these effects are not so local as some would have us to believe; for on the opposite side of the Bay of Naples, on the Sorrentine coast, which, as well as Puzzuoli, is subject to earthquakes, a road, with some fragments of Roman buildings, is covered to some depth by the sea. In the island of Capri, also, which is situated some way out at sea, in the opening of the Bay of Naples, one of the palaces of Tiberius is now covered with water.[725]
That buildings should have been submerged, and afterwards upheaved, without being entirely reduced to a heap of ruins, will appear no anomaly, when we recollect that, in the year 1819, when the delta of the Indus sank down, the houses within the fort of Sindree subsided beneath the waves without being overthrown. In like manner, in the year 1692, the buildings round the harbor of Port Royal, in Jamaica, descended suddenly to the depth of between thirty and fifty feet under the sea without falling. Even on small portions of land transported to a distance of a mile down a declivity, tenements, like those near Mileto, in Calabria, were carried entire. At Valparaiso buildings were left standing in 1822, when their foundations, together with a long tract of the Chilian coast, were permanently upraised to the height of several feet. It is still more easy to conceive that an edifice may escape falling during the upheaval or subsidence of land, if the walls are supported on the exterior and interior with a deposit like that which surrounded and filled to the height of ten or eleven feet the temple of Serapis all the time it was sinking, and which enveloped it to more than twice that height when it was rising again to its original level.
We can scarcely avoid the conclusion, as Mr. Babbage has hinted, "that the action of heat is in some way or other the cause of the phenomena of the change of level of the temple. Its own hot spring, its immediate contiguity to the Solfatara, its nearness to the Monte Nuovo, the hot spring at the baths of Nero (No. 6, fig. 88), on the opposite side of the Bay of Baiæ; the boiling springs and ancient volcanoes of Ischia on one side and Vesuvius on the other, are the most prominent of a multitude of facts which point to that conclusion."[726] And when we reflect on the dates of the principal oscillations of level, and the volcanic history of the country before described (chap. 23), we seem to discover a connection between each era of upheaval and a local development of volcanic heat, and again between each era of depression and the local quiescence or dormant condition of the subterranean igneous causes. Thus for example, before the Christian era, when so many vents were in frequent eruption in Ischia, and when Avernus and other points in the Phlegræan Fields were celebrated for their volcanic aspect and character, the ground on which the temple stood was several feet above water. Vesuvius was then regarded as a spent volcano; but when, after the Christian era, the fires of that mountain were rekindled, scarcely a single outburst was ever witnessed in Ischia, or around the Bay of Baiæ. Then the temple was sinking. Vesuvius, at a subsequent period, became nearly dormant for five centuries preceding the great outbreak of 1631 (see p. 374), and in that interval the Solfatara was in eruption A. D. 1198, Ischia in 1302, and Monte Nuovo was formed in 1538. Then the foundations on which the temple stood were rising again. Lastly, Vesuvius once more became a most active vent, and has been so ever since, and during the same lapse of time the area of the temple, so far as we know any thing of its history, has been subsiding.
These phenomena would agree well with the hypothesis, that when the subterranean heat is on the increase, and when lava is forming without obtaining an easy vent, like that afforded by a great habitual chimney, such as Vesuvius, the incumbent surface is uplifted; but when the heated rocks below are cooling and contracting, and sheets of lava are slowly consolidating and diminishing in volume, then the incumbent land subsides.
Signor Niccolini, when he ascertained in 1838 that the relative levels of the floor of the temple and of the sea were slowly changing from year to year, embraced the opinion that it was the sea which was rising. But Signor Capocci successfully controverted this view, appealing to many appearances which attest the local character of the movements of the adjoining country, besides the historical fact that in 1538, when the sea retired permanently 200 yards from the ancient shore at Puzzuoli, there was no simultaneous retreat of the waters from Naples, Castelamare, and Ischia.[727]
Permanence of the ocean's level.--In concluding this subject I may observe, that the interminable controversies to which the phenomena of the Bay of Baiæ gave rise, have sprung from an extreme reluctance to admit that the land, rather than the sea, is subject alternately to rise and fall. Had it been assumed that the level of the ocean was invariable, on the ground that no fluctuations have as yet been clearly established, and that, on the other hand, the continents are inconstant in their level, as has been demonstrated by the most unequivocal proofs again and again, from the time of Strabo to our own times, the appearances of the temple at Puzzuoli could never have been regarded as enigmatical. Even if contemporary accounts had not distinctly attested the upraising of the coast, this explanation should have been proposed in the first instance as the most natural, instead of being now adopted unwillingly when all others have failed.
To the strong prejudices still existing in regard to the mobility of the land, we may attribute the rarity of such discoveries as have been recently brought to light in the Bay of Baiæ and the Bay of Conception. A false theory, it is well known, may render us blind to facts which are opposed to our prepossessions, or may conceal from us their true import when we behold them. But it is time that the geologist should, in some degree, overcome those first and natural impressions, which induced the poets of old to select the rock as the emblem of firmness--the sea as the image of inconstancy. Our modern poet, in a more philosophical spirit, saw in the sea "The image of eternity," and has finely contrasted the fleeting existence of the successive empires which have flourished and fallen on the borders of the ocean with its own unchanged stability.
------Their decay Has dried up realms to deserts:--not so thou, Unchangeable, save to thy wild wave's play: Time writes no wrinkle on thine azure brow; Such as creation's dawn beheld, thou rollest now.
CHILDE HAROLD, Canto iv.
XXX. ELEVATION AND SUBSIDENCE OF LAND WITHOUT EARTHQUAKES
Changes in the relative level of land and sea in regions not volcanic--Opinion of Celsius that the waters of the Baltic Sea and Northern Ocean were sinking--Objections raised to his opinion--Proofs of the stability of the sea level in the Baltic--Playfair's hypothesis that the land was rising in Sweden--Opinion of Von Buch--Marks cut on the rocks--Survey of these in 1820--Facility of detecting slight alterations of level on coast of Sweden--Shores of the ocean also rising--Area upheaved--Shelly deposits of Uddevalla--Of Stockholm, containing fossil shells characteristic of the Baltic--Subsidence in south of Sweden--Fishing hut buried under marine strata--Upheaval in Sweden not always in horizontal planes--Sinking of land in Greenland--Bearing of these facts on geology.
We have now considered the phenomena of volcanoes and earthquakes according to the division of the subject before proposed (p. 345), and have next to turn our attention to those slow and insensible changes in the relative level of land and sea which take place in countries remote from volcanoes, and where no violent earthquakes have occurred within the period of human observation. Early in the last century the Swedish naturalist, Celsius, expressed his opinion that the waters, both of the Baltic and Northern Ocean, were gradually subsiding. From numerous observations, he inferred that the rate of depression was about fifty Swedish inches in a century.[728] In support of this position, he alleged that there were many rocks both on the shores of the Baltic and the ocean known to have been once sunken reefs, and dangerous to navigators, but which were in his time above water--that the waters of the Gulf of Bothnia had been gradually converted into land, several ancient ports having been changed into inland cities, small islands joined to the continent, and old fishing-grounds deserted as being too shallow, or entirely dried up. Celsius also maintained, that the evidence of the change rested not only on modern observations, but on the authority of the ancient geographers, who had stated that Scandinavia was formerly an island. This island, he argued, must in the course of centuries, by the gradual retreat of the sea, have become connected with the continent; an event which he supposed to have happened after the time of Pliny, and before the ninth century of our era.
To this argument it was objected that the ancients were so ignorant of the geography of the most northern parts of Europe, that their authority was entitled to no weight; and that their representation of Scandinavia as an island, might with more propriety be adduced to prove the scantiness of their information, than to confirm so bold an hypothesis. It was also remarked that if the land which connected Scandinavia with the main continent was laid dry between the time of Pliny and the ninth century, to the extent to which it is known to have risen above the sea at the latter period, the rate of depression could not have been uniform, as was pretended; for it ought to have fallen much more rapidly between the ninth and eighteenth centuries.
Many of the proofs relied on by Celsius and his followers were immediately controverted by several philosophers, who saw clearly that a fall of the sea in any one region could not take place without a general sinking of the waters over the whole globe: they denied that this was the fact, or that the depression was universal, even in the Baltic. In proof of the stability of the level of that sea, they appealed to the position of the island of Saltholm, not far from Copenhagen. This island is so low, that in autumn and winter it is permanently overflowed; and it is only dry in summer, when it serves for pasturing cattle. It appears, from the documents of the year 1280, that Saltholm was then also in the same state, and exactly on a level with the mean height of the sea, instead of having been about twenty feet under water, as it ought to have been, according to the computation of Celsius. Several towns, also, on the shores of the Baltic, as Lubeck, Wismar, Rostock, Stralsund, and others, after six and even eight hundred years, are as little elevated above the sea as at the era of their foundation, being now close to the water's edge. The lowest part of Dantzic was no higher than the mean level of the sea in the year 1000; and after eight centuries its relative position remains exactly the same.[729]
Several of the examples of the gain of land and shallowing of the sea pointed out by Celsius, and afterwards by Linnæus, who embraced the same opinions, were ascribed by others to the deposition of sediment at points where rivers entered; and, undoubtedly, Celsius had not sufficiently distinguished between changes due to these causes and such as would arise if the waters of the ocean itself were diminishing. Many large rivers descending from a mountainous country, at the head of the Gulf of Bothnia, enter the sea charged with sand, mud, and pebbles; and it was said that in these places the low land had advanced rapidly, especially near Torneo. At Piteo also, half a mile had been gained in forty-five years; at Luleo,[730] no less than a mile in twenty-eight years; facts which might all be admitted consistently with the assumption that the level of the Baltic has remained unchanged, like that of the Adriatic, during a period when the plains of the Po and the Adige have greatly extended their area.
It was also alleged that certain insular rocks, once entirely covered with water, had at length protruded themselves above the waves, and grown, in the course of a century and a half, to be eight feet high. The following attempt was made to explain away this phenomenon:--In the Baltic, large erratic blocks, as well as sand and smaller stones which lie on shoals, are liable every year to be frozen into the ice, where the sea freezes to the depth of five or six feet. On the melting of the snow in spring, when the sea rises about half a fathom, numerous ice-islands float away, bearing up these rocky fragments so as to convey them to a distance; and if they are driven by the waves upon shoals, they may convert them into islands by depositing the blocks; if stranded upon low islands, they may considerably augment their height.
Browallius, also, and some other Swedish naturalists, affirmed that some islands were lower than formerly; and that, by reference to this kind of evidence, there was equally good reason for contending that the level of the Baltic was gradually rising. They also added another curious proof of the permanency of the water level, at some points at least, for many centuries. On the Finland coast were some large pines, growing close to the water's edge; these were cut down, and, by counting the concentric rings of annual growth, as seen in a transverse section of the trunk, it was demonstrated that they had stood there for four hundred years. Now, according to the Celsian hypothesis, the sea had sunk about fifteen feet during that period, in which case the germination and early growth of these pines must have been, for many seasons, below the level of the water. In like manner it was asserted, that the lower walls of many ancient castles, such as those of Sonderburg and Åbo, reached then to the water's edge, and must, therefore, according to the theory of Celsius, have been originally constructed below the level of the sea.
In reply to this last argument, Colonel Hällstrom, a Swedish engineer, well acquainted with the Finland coast, assured me, that the base of the walls of the castle of Åbo is now ten feet above the water, so that there may have been a considerable rise of the land at that point since the building was erected.
Playfair, in his "Illustrations of the Huttonian Theory," in 1802, admitted the sufficiency of the proofs adduced by Celsius, but attributed the change of level to the movement of the land, rather than to a diminution of the waters. He observed, "that in order to depress or elevate the absolute level of the sea, by a given quantity, in any one place, we must depress or elevate it by the same quantity over the whole surface of the earth; whereas no such necessity exists with respect to the elevation or depression of the land."[731] The hypothesis of the rising of the land he adds, "agrees well with the Huttonian theory, which holds, that our continents are subject to be acted upon by the expansive forces of the mineral regions; that by these forces they have been actually raised up, and are sustained by them in their present situation.[732]
In the year 1807, Von Buch, after returning from a tour in Scandinavia, announced his conviction, "that the whole country, from Frederickshall in Norway to Åbo in Finland, and perhaps as far as St. Petersburg, was slowly and insensibly rising." He also suggested "that Sweden may rise more than Norway, and the northern more than the southern part."[733] He was led to these conclusions principally by information obtained from the inhabitants and pilots, and in part by the occurrence of marine shells of recent species, which he had found at several points on the coast of Norway above the level of the sea. He also mentions the marks set on the rocks. Von Buch, therefore, has the merit of being the first geologist who, after a personal examination of the evidence, declared in favor of the rise of land in Scandinavia.
The attention excited by this subject in the early part of the last century, induced many philosophers in Sweden to endeavor to determine, by accurate observations, whether the standard level of the Baltic was really subject to periodical variations; and under their direction, lines or grooves, indicating the ordinary level of the water on a calm day, together with the date of the year, were chiselled out upon the rocks. In 1820-21, all the marks made before those years were examined by the officers of the pilotage establishment of Sweden; and in their report to the Royal Academy of Stockholm they declared, that on comparing the level of the sea at the time of their observations with that indicated by the ancient marks, they found that the Baltic was lower relatively to the land in certain places, but the amount of change during equal periods of time had not been everywhere the same. During their survey, they cut new marks for the guidance of future observers, several of which I had an opportunity of examining fourteen years after (in the summer of 1834), and in that interval the land appeared to me to have risen at certain places north of Stockholm four or five inches. I also convinced myself, during my visit to Sweden, after conversing with many civil engineers, pilots, and fishermen, and after examining some of the ancient marks, that the evidence formerly adduced in favor of the change of level, both on the coasts of Sweden and Finland, was full and satisfactory.[734] The alteration of level evidently diminishes as we proceed from the northern parts of the Gulf of Bothnia towards the south, being very slight around Stockholm. Some writers have indeed represented the rate of depression of the waters at Stockholm as very considerable, because certain houses in that city which are built on piles have sunk down within the memory of persons still living, so as to be out of the perpendicular; and this in consequence of the tops of the piles giving way and decaying, owing to a fall of the waters which has exposed them to be alternately wet and dry. The houses alluded to are situated on the borders of Lake Maeler, a large lake, the outlet of which joins the Baltic, in the middle of Stockholm. This lake is certainly lower than formerly; but the principal cause of the change is not the elevation of the land, but the removal of two old bridges built on piles, which formerly obstructed the discharge of the fresh water into the sea. Another cause is the opening, in the year 1819, of a new canal at Södertelje, a place south of Stockholm, by means of which a new line of communication was formed between Lake Maeler and the Baltic.[735]
It will naturally be asked, whether the mean level of a sea like the Baltic can ever be determined so exactly as to permit us to appreciate a variation of level, amounting only to one or two feet. In reply, I may observe, that, except near the Cattegat, there are no tides in the Baltic; and it is only when particular winds have prevailed for several days in succession, or at certain seasons when there has been an unusually abundant influx of river water, or when these causes have combined, that this sea is made to rise two or three feet above its standard level. The fluctuations due to these causes are nearly the same from year to year; so that the pilots and fishermen believe and apparently with reason, that they can mark a deviation, even of a few inches, from the ordinary or mean height of the waters.
There are, moreover, peculiarities in the configuration of the shores of Norway and Sweden, which facilitate in a remarkable degree the appreciation of slight changes in the relative level of land and water. It has often been said, that there are two coasts, an inner and an outer one; the inner being the shore of the main land; the outer one, a fringe of countless rocky islands of all dimensions, called the skär (shair). Boats and small vessels make their coasting voyages within this skär: for here they may sail in smooth water, even when the sea without is strongly agitated. But the navigation is very intricate, and the pilot must possess a perfect acquaintance with the breadth and depth of every narrow channel, and the position of innumerable sunken rocks. If on such a coast the land rises one or two feet in the course of half a century, the minute topography of the skär is entirely altered. To a stranger, indeed, who revisits it after an interval of many years, its general aspect remains the same; but the inhabitant finds that he can no longer penetrate with his boat through channels where he formerly passed, and he can tell of countless other changes in the height and breadth of isolated rocks, now exposed, but once only seen through the clear water.
The rocks of gneiss, mica-schist, and quartz are usually very hard on this coast, slow to decompose, and, when protected from the breakers, remaining for ages unaltered in their form. Hence it is easy to mark the stages of their progressive emergence by the aid of natural and artificial marks imprinted on them. Besides the summits of fixed rocks, there are numerous erratic blocks of vast size strewed over the shoals and islands in the skär, which have been probably drifted by ice in the manner before suggested.[736] All these are observed to have increased in height and dimension with the last half century. Some, which were formerly known as dangerous sunken rocks, are now only hidden when the water is highest. On their first appearance, they usually present a smooth, bare, rounded protuberance, a few feet or yards in diameter; and a single sea-gull often appropriates to itself this resting-place, resorting there to devour its prey. Similar points, in the mean time, have grown to long reefs, and are constantly whitened by a multitude of sea-fowl; while others have been changed from a reef, annually submerged, to a small islet, on which a few lichens, a fir-seedling, and a few blades of grass, attest that the shoal has at length been fairly changed into dry land. Thousands of wooded islands around show the great alterations which time can work. In the course of centuries also, the spaces intervening between the existing islands may be laid dry, and become grassy plains encircled by heights well clothed with lofty firs. This last step of the process, by which long fiords and narrow channels, once separating wooded islands, are deserted by the sea, has been exemplified within the memory of living witnesses on several parts of the coast.
Had the apparent fall of the waters been observed in the Baltic only, we might have endeavored to explain the phenomenon by local causes affecting that sea alone. For instance, the channel by which the Baltic discharges its surplus waters into the Atlantic, might be supposed to have been gradually widened and deepened by the waves and currents, in which case a fall of the water like that before alluded to in Lake Maeler, might have occurred. But the lowering of level would in that case have been uniform and universal, and the waters could not have sunk at Torneo, while they retained their former level at Copenhagen. Such an explanation is also untenable on other grounds; for it is a fact, as Celsius long ago affirmed, that the alteration of level extends to the western shores of Sweden, bordering the ocean. The signs of elevation observed between Uddevalla and Gothenburg are as well established as those on the shores of the Bothnian Gulf. Among the places where they may be studied, are the islands of Marstrand and Gulholmen, the last-mentioned locality being one of those particularly pointed out by Celsius.
The inhabitants there and elsewhere affirm, that the rate of the sinking of the sea (or elevation of land) varies in different and adjoining districts, being greatest at points where the land is low. But in this they are deceived; for they measure the amount of rise by the area gained, which is most considerable where the land descends with a gentle slope into the sea. In the same manner, some advocates of the Celsian theory formerly appealed to the increase of lands near the mouths of rivers, not sufficiently adverting to the fact, that if the bed of the sea is rising, the change will always be most sensible where the bottom has been previously rendered shallow; whereas, at a distance from these points where the scarped granitic cliffs plunge at once into deep water, a much greater amount of elevation is necessary to produce an equally conspicuous change.
As to the area in northern Europe which is subject to this slow upheaving movement, we have not as yet sufficient data for estimating it correctly. It seems probable, however, that it reaches from Gothenburg to Torneo, and from thence to the North Cape, the rate of elevation increasing always as we proceed farther northwards. The two extremities of this line are more than a thousand geographical miles distant from each other; and as both terminate in the ocean, we know not how much farther the motion may be prolonged under water. As to the breadth of the tract, its limits are equally uncertain, though it evidently extends across the widest parts of the Gulf of Bothnia, and may probably stretch far into the interior, both of Sweden and Finland. Now if the elevation continue, a larger part of the Gulf of Bothnia will be turned into land, as also more of the ocean off the west coast of Sweden between Gothenburg and Uddevalla; and on the other hand, if the change has been going on for thousands of years at the rate of several feet in a century, large tracts of what is now land must have been submarine at periods comparatively modern. It is natural therefore to inquire whether there are any signs of the recent sojourn of the sea on districts now inland? The answer is most satisfactory.--Near Uddevalla and the neighboring coastland, we find upraised deposits of shells belonging to species such as now live in the ocean; while on the opposite or eastern side of Sweden, near Stockholm, Gefle, and other places bordering the Bothnian Gulf, there are analogous beds containing shells of species characteristic of the Baltic.
Von Buch announced in 1807, that he had discovered in Norway and at Uddevalla in Sweden, beds of shells of existing species, at considerable heights above the sea. Since that time, other naturalists have confirmed his observation; and, according to Ström, deposits occur at an elevation of more than 400 feet above the sea in the northern part of Norway. M. Alex. Brongniart, when he visited Uddevalla, ascertained that one of the principal masses of shells, that of Capellbacken, is raised more than 200 feet above the sea, resting on rocks of gneiss, all the species being identical with those now inhabiting the contiguous ocean. The same naturalist also stated, that on examining with care the surface of the gneiss, immediately above the ancient shelly deposit, he found barnacles (balani) adhering to the rocks, showing that the sea had remained there for a long time. I was fortunate enough to be able to verify this observation by finding in the summer of 1834, at Kured, about two miles north of Uddevalla, and at the height of more than 100 feet above the sea, a surface of gneiss newly laid open by the partial removal of a mass of shells used largely in the district for making lime and repairing the roads. So firmly did these barnacles adhere to the gneiss, that I broke off portions of the rock with the shells attached. The face of the gneiss was also incrusted with small zoophytes (Cellepora? Lam.); but had these or the barnacles been exposed in the atmosphere ever since the elevation of the rocks above the sea, they would doubtless have decomposed and been obliterated.
The town of Uddevalla (see Map, p. 523) stands at the head of a narrow creek overhung by steep and barren rocks of gneiss, of which all the adjacent country is composed, except in the low grounds and bottoms of valleys, where strata of sand, clay, and marl frequently hide the fundamental rocks. To these newer and horizontal deposits the fossil shells above mentioned belong, and similar marine remains are found at various heights above the sea on the opposite island of Orust. The extreme distance from the sea to which such fossils extend is as yet unknown; but they have been already found at Trollhättan in digging the canal there, and still farther inland on the northern borders of Lake Wener, fifty miles from the sea, at an elevation of 200 feet near Lake Rogvarpen.
To pass to the Baltic: I observed near its shores at Södertelje, sixteen miles S. W. of Stockholm, strata of sand, clay, and marl, more than 100 feet high, and containing shells of species now inhabiting the Bothnian Gulf. These consist partly of marine and partly of freshwater species; but they are few in number, the brackishness of the water appearing to be very unfavorable to the development of testacea. The most abundant species are the common cockle and the common mussel and periwinkle of our shores (Cardium edule, Mytilus edulis, and Littorina littorea), together with a small tellina (T. Baltica) and a few minute univalves allied to Paludina ulva. These live in the same water as a Lymneus, a Neritina (N. fluviatilis), and some other fresh-water shells.
But the marine mollusks of the Baltic above mentioned, although very numerous in individuals, are dwarfish in size, scarcely ever attaining a third of the average dimensions which they acquire in the salter waters of the ocean. By this character alone a geologist would generally be able to recognize an assemblage of Baltic fossils as distinguished from those derived from a deposit in the ocean. The absence also of oysters, barnacles, whelks, scallops, limpets (ostrea, balanus, buccinum, pecten, patella), and many other forms abounding alike in the sea near Uddevalla, and in the fossiliferous deposits of modern date on that coast, supplies an additional negative character of the greatest value, distinguishing assemblages of Baltic from those of oceanic shells. Now the strata containing Baltic shells are found in many localities near Stockholm, Upsala, and Gefle, and will probably be discovered everywhere around the borders of the Bothnian Gulf; for I have seen similar remains brought from Finland, in marl resembling that found near Stockholm. The utmost distance to which these deposits have yet been traced inland, is on the southern shores of Lake Maeler, at a place seventy miles from the sea.[737] Hence it appears from the distinct assemblage of fossil shells found on the eastern and western coasts of Sweden, that the Baltic has been for a long period separated as now from the ocean, although the intervening tract of land was once much narrower, even after both seas had become inhabited by all the existing species of testacea.
As no accurate observations on the rise of the Swedish coast refer to periods more remote than a century and a half from the present time, and as traditional information, and that derived from ancient buildings on the coast, do not enable the antiquary to trace back any monuments of change for more than five or six centuries, we cannot declare whether the rate of the upheaving force is uniform during very long periods. In those districts where the fossil shells are found at the height of more than 200 feet above the ocean, as at Uddevalla, Orust, and Lake Rogvarpen, the present rate of rise seems less than four feet in a century. Even at that rate it would have required five thousand years to lift up those deposits. But as the movement is now very different in different places, it may also have varied much in intensity at different eras.
We have, moreover, yet to learn not only whether the motion proceeds always at the same rate, but also whether it has been uniformly in one direction. The level of the land may oscillate; and for centuries there may be a depression, and afterwards a re-elevation, of the same district. Some phenomena in the neighborhood of Stockholm appear to me only explicable on the supposition of the alternate rising and sinking of the ground since the country was inhabited by man. In digging a canal, in 1819, at Södertelje, about sixteen miles to the south of Stockholm, to unite Lake Maeler with the Baltic, marine strata, containing fossil shells of Baltic species, were passed through. At a depth of about sixty feet, they came down upon what seems to have been a buried fishing-hut, constructed of wood in a state of decomposition, which soon crumbled away on exposure to the air. The lowest part, however, which had stood on a level with the sea, was in a more perfect state of preservation. On the floor of this hut was a rude fireplace, consisting of a ring of stones, and within this were cinders and charred wood. On the outside lay boughs of the fir, cut as with an axe, with the leaves or needles still attached. It seems very difficult to explain the position of this buried hut, without imagining, as in the case of the temple of Serapis (see p. 486), first a subsidence to the depth of more than sixty feet, then a re-elevation. During the period of submergence, the hut must have become covered over with gravel and shelly marl, under which not only the hut, but several vessels also were found, of a very antique form, and having their timbers fastened together by wooden pegs instead of nails.[738]
Whether any of the land in Norway is now rising, must be determined by future investigations. Marine fossil shells, of recent species, have been collected from inland places near Drontheim; but Mr. Everest, in his "Travels through Norway," informs us that the small island of Munkholm, which is an insulated rock in the harbor of Drontheim, affords conclusive evidence of the land having in that region remained stationary for the last eight centuries. The area of this isle does not exceed that of a small village, and by an official survey, its highest point has been determined to be twenty-three feet above the mean high-water mark, that is, the mean between neap and spring tides. Now, a monastery was founded there by Canute the Great, A. D. 1028, and thirty-three years before that time it was in use as a common place of execution. According to the assumed average rate of rise in Sweden (about forty inches in a century), we should be obliged to suppose that this island had been three feet eight inches below high-water mark when it was originally chosen as the site of the monastery.
Professor Keilhau of Christiania, after collecting the observations of his predecessors respecting former changes of level in Norway, and combining them with his own, has made the fact of a general change of level at a modern period, that is to say, within the period of the actual testaceous fauna, very evident. He infers that the whole country from Cape Lindesnæs to Cape North, and beyond that as far as the fortress of Vardhuus, has been gradually upraised, and on the southeast coast the elevation has amounted to more than 600 feet. The marks which denote the ancient coast-line are so nearly horizontal that the deviation from horizontality, although the measurements have been made at a great number of points, is too small to be appreciated.
More recently (1844), however, it appears from the researches of M. Bravais, member of the French scientific commission of the North, that in the Gulf of Alten in Finmark, the most northerly part of Norway, there are two distinct lines of upraised ancient sea-coast, one above the other, which are not parallel, and both of them imply that within a distance of fifty miles a considerable slope can be detected in such a direction as to show that the ancient shores have undergone a greater amount of upheaval in proportion as we advance inland.[739]
It has been already stated, that, in proceeding from the North Cape to Stockholm, the rate of upheaval diminishes from several feet to a few inches in a century. To the south of Stockholm, the upward movement ceases, and at length in Scania, or the southernmost part of Sweden, it appears to give place to a movement in an opposite direction. In proof of this fact, Professor Nilsson observes, in the first place, that there are no elevated beds of recent marine shells in Scania like those farther to the north. Secondly, Linnæus, with a view of ascertaining whether the waters of the Baltic were retiring from the Scanian shore, measured, in 1749, the distance between the sea and a large stone near Trelleborg. This same stone was, in 1836, a hundred feet nearer the water's edge than in Linnæus's time, or eighty-seven years before. Thirdly, there is also a submerged peat moss, consisting of land and freshwater plants, beneath the sea at a point to which no peat could have been drifted down by any river. Fourthly, and what is still more conclusive, it is found that in seaport towns, all along the coast of Scania, there are streets below the high-water level of the Baltic, and in some cases below the level of the lowest tide. Thus, when the wind is high at Malmo, the water overflows one of the present streets, and some years ago some excavations showed an ancient street in the same place eight feet lower, and it was then seen that there had been an artificial raising of the ground, doubtless in consequence of that subsidence. There is also a street at Trelleborg, and another at Skanör, a few inches below high-water mark, and a street at Ystad is exactly on a level with the sea, at which it could not have been originally built.
The inferences deduced from the foregoing facts are in perfect harmony with the proofs brought to light by two Danish investigators, Dr. Pingel and Captain Graah, of the sinking down of part of the west coast of Greenland, for a space of more than 600 miles from north to south. The observations of Captain Graah were made during a survey of Greenland in 1823-24; and afterwards in 1828-29; those by Dr. Pingel were made in 1830-32. It appears from various signs and traditions, that the coast has been subsiding for the last four centuries from the firth called Igaliko, in lat. 60° 43' N. to Disco Bay, extending to nearly the 69th degree of north latitude. Ancient buildings on low rocky islands and on the shore of the main land have been gradually submerged, and experience has taught the aboriginal Greenlander never to build his hut near the water's edge. In one case the Moravian settlers have been obliged more than once to move inland the poles upon which their large boats were set, and the old poles still remain beneath the water as silent witnesses of the change.[740]
The probable cause of the movements above alluded to, whether of elevation or depression, will be more appropriately discussed in the following chapters, when the origin of subterranean heat is considered. But I may remark here, that the rise of Scandinavia has naturally been regarded as a very singular and scarcely credible phenomenon, because no region on the globe has been more free within the times of authentic history from violent earthquakes. In common, indeed, with our own island and with almost every spot on the globe, some movements have been, at different periods, experienced, both in Norway and Sweden. But some of these, as for example during the Lisbon earthquake in 1755, may have been mere vibrations or undulatory movements of the earth's crust prolonged from a great distance. Others, however, have been sufficiently local to indicate a source of disturbance immediately under the country itself. Notwithstanding these shocks, Scandinavia has, upon the whole, been as tranquil in modern times, and as free from subterranean convulsions, as any region of equal extent on the globe. There is also another circumstance which has made the change of level in Sweden appear anomalous, and has for a long time caused the proofs of the fact to be received with reluctance. Volcanic action, as we have seen, is usually intermittent: and the variations of level to which it has given rise have taken place by starts, not by a prolonged and insensible movement similar to that experienced in Sweden. Yet, as we enlarge our experience of modern changes, we discover instances in which the volcanic eruption, the earthquake, and the permanent rise or fall of land, whether slow or sudden, are all connected. The union of these various circumstances was exemplified in the case of the temple of Serapis, described in the last chapter, and we might derive other illustrations from the events of the present century in South America.
Some writers, indeed, have imagined that there is geological evidence in Norway, of the sudden upheaval of land to a considerable height at successive periods, since the era when the sea was inhabited by the living species of testacea. They point in proof to certain horizontal lines of inland cliffs and sea-beaches containing recent shells at various heights above the level of the sea.[741] But these appearances, when truly interpreted, simply prove that there have been long pauses in the process of upheaval or subsidence. They mark eras at which the level of the sea has remained stationary for ages, and during which new strata were deposited near the shore in some places, while in others the waves and currents had time to hollow out rocks, undermine cliffs, and throw up long ranges of shingle. They undoubtedly show that the movement has not been always uniform or continuous, but they do not establish the fact of any sudden alterations of level.
When we are once assured of the reality of the gradual rise of a large region, it enables us to account for many geological appearances otherwise of very difficult explanation. There are large continental tracts and high table-lands where the strata are nearly horizontal, bearing no marks of having been thrown up by violent convulsions, nor by a series of movements, such as those which occur in the Andes, and cause the earth to be rent open, and raised or depressed from time to time, while large masses are engulfed in subterranean cavities. The result of a series of such earthquakes might be to produce in a great lapse of ages a country of shattered, inclined, and perhaps vertical strata. But a movement like that of Scandinavia would cause the bed of the sea, and all the strata recently formed in it, to be upheaved so gradually, that it would merely seem as if the ocean had formerly stood at a higher level, and had slowly and tranquilly sunk down into its present bed.
The fact also of a very gradual and insensible elevation of land may explain many geological movements of denudation, on a grand scale. If, for example, instead of the hard granitic rocks of Norway and Sweden, a large part of the bed of the Atlantic, consisting chiefly of soft strata, should rise up century after century, at the rate of about half an inch, or an inch, in a year, how easily might oceanic currents sweep away the thin film of matter thus brought up annually within the sphere of aqueous denudation! The tract, when it finally emerged, might present table-lands and ridges of horizontal strata, with intervening valleys and vast plains, where originally, and during its period of submergence, the surface was level and nearly uniform.
These speculations relate to superficial changes; but others must be continually in progress in the subterranean regions. The foundations of the country, thus gradually uplifted in Sweden, must be undergoing important modifications. Whether we ascribe these to the expansion of solid matter by continually increasing heat, or to the liquefaction of rock, or to the crystallization of a dense fluid, or the accumulation of pent-up gases, in whatever conjectures we indulge, we can never doubt for a moment, that at some unknown depth beneath Sweden and the Baltic, the structure of the globe is in our own times becoming changed from day to day, throughout a space probably more than a thousand miles in length, and several hundred in breadth.