XXVIII. A VERY FEW REMARKS WITH REFERENCE TO THE DELUGE

XXVIII. A VERY FEW REMARKS WITH REFERENCE TO THE DELUGE

To account for offering a few remarks on a subject so important and difficult as that of the Deluge, I beg to say that reflections, arising out of facts witnessed during the Beagle’s voyage, have occasioned them; and, as results of that expedition, it has appeared to me that they are neither irrelevant to the narrative, nor likely to be altogether uninteresting to young men in the navy.

I suffered much anxiety in former years from a disposition to doubt, if not disbelieve, the inspired History written by Moses. I knew so little of that record, or of the intimate manner in which the Old Testament is connected with the New, that I fancied some events there related might be mythological or fabulous, while I sincerely believed the truth of others; a wavering between opinions, which could only be productive of an unsettled, and therefore unhappy, state of mind. Some young men, I am well aware, are in a similar condition, while many others are content to set aside all reflection, and do as the world does; or rather, as those do among whom they generally live. Natural affection and respect for good parents, relations, and elders, never can lead a young man astray; but there is, perhaps, no guide more fallible or dangerous than the common custom of those inexperienced persons who associate together, chiefly for lack of fixed occupation; and whose principal object is to drive away self-examination, or prolonged thought, by a continual succession of idle amusement, or vivid excitement.

Wholesome and necessary as amusement and recreation are, both for mind and body, every one knows how insipid, even painful their excess becomes; and external evidence shows but too plainly where the happiness, the blessings, and the comfort men might enjoy, have by themselves been slighted, or destroyed, from forgetting the line between using, and abusing; and by turning a deaf ear to the reflection that they are but ‘tenants at will.’

Much of my own uneasiness was caused by reading works written by men of Voltaire’s school; and by those of geologists who contradict, by implication, if not in plain terms, the authenticity of the Scriptures; before I had any acquaintance with the volume which they so incautiously impugn. For geology, as a useful branch of science,[1] I have as high a respect as for any other young branch of the tree of knowledge, which has yet to undergo the trial of experience; and no doubt exists in my own breast that every such additional branch, if proved by time to be sound and healthy, will contribute its share of nourishment and vigour to the tree which sprung from an immortal root. For men who, like myself formerly, are willingly ignorant of the Bible, and doubt its divine inspiration, I can only have one feeling--sincere sorrow.

Few have time, as well as inclination, to go far into both sides of any question; but truth can hardly be drawn out of the well unless some exertion be made, in examining each argument, or in selecting a well-tried and experienced guide. It is idle to say, as I have heard asserted, that such works as those above-mentioned do little harm; experience proves the contrary; of which I am made painfully aware, not only by my own conscience, but by conversation with friends.

While led away by sceptical ideas, and knowing extremely little of the Bible, one of my remarks to a friend, on crossing vast plains composed of rolled stones bedded in diluvial detritus some hundred feet in depth, was “this could never have been effected by a forty days’ flood,”--an expression plainly indicative of the turn of mind, and ignorance of Scripture. I was quite willing to disbelieve what I thought to be the Mosaic account, upon the evidence of a hasty glance, though knowing next to nothing of the record I doubted:--and I mention this particularly, because I have conversed with persons fond of geology, yet knowing no more of the Bible than I knew at that time. Thus much I feel it necessary to say, in accounting for my own approach to a subject in which all men feel deeply interested; and which has therefore been so well treated of, that these remarks would be useless, were it not that they may reach the eyes of young sailors, who have not always access to works of authority.

The Mosaic account of the Creation is so intimately connected with that of the Deluge that I must ask my young reader (whom alone I presume to address on this subject) to turn to the first chapter of Genesis, and refer to a few verses with me. We soon find a remarkable fact, which shows to my mind that the knowledge of Moses was super-human: his declaration in an early age that light was created before the sun and moon, which must till then have appeared to be the sources of light. In the fourth verse it is stated that “God divided the light from the darkness.” This may have been effected by a rotation of the earth on its axis, turning each side in succession to the light; otherwise, had the earth remained stationary, light must have been destroyed to admit darkness, and there must have been repeated creations of light. The light was called day--“and the evening and the morning were the first day.” Of course there could have been no morning previous to the creation of light; and the first portion of time, consonant to our present expressions, would have been that which elapsed between light and darkness, or evening. The length of a day being determined by the rotation of the earth on its axis; turning round once, so as to make an evening and a morning to each spot on the globe; the time occupied by that rotation is a natural object of interest. In the 12th verse it is said that grass, herbs, and trees, were brought forth; in the 14th and 16th, that lights were made to divide the day from the night; and that the greater light was to rule the day. It is known that neither trees, herbs, nor grass can exist long without the light and heat of the sun, therefore the rotation of the earth between the third day, when vegetation was produced, and the fourth, could not have been very different, in velocity, from its present rotation. Some men, of rare abilities, have thought that the “days” of creation were indefinite periods, notwithstanding the statement in verse 14, which affirms that the lights in the firmament of heaven were to divide the day from the night; and to “be for signs, and for seasons, and for days, and years.” In this one verse do we not see that the day was less than a year (signs and seasons, days and years); for had the day there meant been more than a year would not the words have been differently placed, namely--signs and seasons, years and days? Can we think that day means one space of time in the former part, and another space of time in the latter part of that one verse? Another indication that the word day, used in the first chapter of Genesis, does not mean a period much, if at all, longer than our present day, is--that it is spoken of as alternating with night. Although the word day is used in other chapters of the Bible, even so soon as the 4th verse of the 2d chapter of Genesis, to express a period, or space of time longer than our present day, the word night is never so applied:--hence, as the earth turns uniformly on its axis, and, so far as we can reason from analogy, must have turned uniformly, while turning at all, the word night in the 5th verse interprets the length of a day.

Some have laid stress upon the declaration that a thousand years are with the Lord as one day:--but what is the context?[2] To lengthen the day to a thousand years, on account of this and a similar expression, is not more reasonable than it would be to reduce it to a night-watch. What is a watch in the night when passed?--next to nothing:--so are a thousand years with the Almighty. These considerations tend to show how, without Chaldee or Hebrew learning, a man, with a common English education, may convince himself of a fact which has lately been so much controverted.[3]

Partly referring to such indefinite periods as we have been discussing,--and partly to reasoning unaided by revelation,--some geologists have said that there were successive creations, at intervals of vast duration. They have imagined an age in which only the ‘so-called’ lowest orders of animated creatures existed,[4] an age of fishes, an age of reptiles, an age of mammalia, and an age in which man appeared: statements which have obtained much attention. Fossil fishes and shell mollusca[5] have been found in coal measures, and in subjacent formations:--how could this have happened if vegetables had been produced first; then swept away and converted into coal, and that afterwards the lower orders of animals had appeared? We know that the fossil plants of the coal formations are similar in structure to vegetables now growing on the earth, which cannot flourish without warmth, and the light of the sun. Vegetation was produced on the third day, the sun on the fourth. If the third day was an age, how was the vegetable world nourished? But anomalies such as these appear to be endless in most geological theories: I will leave them for the present and continue my course.

In the 16th verse it is said that “God made two great lights; the greater light to rule the day, the lesser light to rule the night: the stars also;” that is, he made the stars also.

It is not stated here that the Almighty made all the stars at that time; nor can I, after consulting very able men, find any passage of such an import. That all the stars dependant upon, or connected with, our solar system, namely, the planets and their satellites, were then created, seems to be evident from the fact of their revolving round our sun; but farther than this, it is not thought necessary (may we not presume) for man to know; therefore it is not revealed to us. In the ancient book of Job, the creation of the world is thus alluded to. “Who laid the corner stone thereof, when the morning stars sang together, and all the sons of God shouted for joy.”[6] But the earth was finished, and vegetation produced, before the creation of stars mentioned in Gen. i. 16; therefore, unless the ‘corner-stone’ alludes to man, it may be inferred that there were stars in existence besides those made on the fourth day. Of course, the ‘singing of the stars’ is a figurative expression; but as we do not meet with any similar metaphor in the Bible, unconnected with some object that we know exists; we may infer that stars existed when the allegorical, or mystical corner-stone was thus laid.[7]

In verses 29 and 30, the food for man and beast is mentioned, and with reference to the Deluge this should be borne in mind. It may be said that the teeth of some animals are so formed as to be fit only for grazing, or browzing; that beasts of prey have teeth adapted to tearing and gnawing; and that man requires meat; but we must remember that dogs and wild beasts thrive upon a vegetable diet, and that some men never touch meat, even in the present state of the world: very different probably from its condition before the flood, as may be concluded from the inferior duration of human life.

The 2d and 3d verses of chap. ii. recall to mind the wonderful fact that the seventh day has been a marked division of time from the earliest period of historical record.[8]

It is now well known that all nations, and almost all tribes of the human race, preserve traditions of a great flood in which nearly all men were destroyed:[9] and it is also established as a fact, that nearly all parts of the earth, hitherto examined, bear witness to their having been at some time covered by the ocean. Instead of ascribing these effects to the universal deluge, many geologists say that the earth is in a continual, though gradual state of change; that in consequence of this general mobility, places now far above the sea were once beneath it; that districts, or countries, may have been inundated in one quarter, and other regions elsewhere, but that an universal deluge never could have happened. This is implied plainly enough, if not asserted, in several geological works.

In the Beagle’s examination of the southern parts of South America, I had opportunities of observing immense tracts of land composed, solely, of fossil shells, bones, and an earth which looked like dried sandy mud:--extensive ranges of country where no solid rock could be found, only rolled or shingle stones, embedded to a great depth in earth, exactly like that described above;--and a wide district, at least fifty miles across, covered with lava of which the surface was nearly horizontal. (San José, San Julian, Santa Cruz.)

I brought to England many specimens of these shells, which, although taken from within a few feet of the surface of the land, were found to have been pressed together, crushed, and penetrated by mud, in a manner that never could have been caused by the weight of earth then lying above them, because, though solid, it could neither have mashed the shells, nor worked into their inmost recesses. It seems evident to me that those shells have undergone enormous pressure beneath an ocean, when they were surrounded with mud.[10] But previous to such pressure, the shells must have grown naturally somewhere:--certainly not at the bottom of an ocean; because they are shells of a comparatively delicate structure which are usually found within a few feet of low water; some at least of the number being identical with living species.

If the square miles of solid land in which those myriads of shells are now embedded, had been upheaved (as geologists say), either gradually, or rapidly, shells could not be found there in their present confused and compressed state. Had the land sunk down many thousand feet with shells upon it, they might have been covered with mud, and on being afterwards upheaved again they would have appeared embedded regularly where they grew, in a matrix which, with the pressure of a superincumbent ocean, might have flattened and penetrated them: but they would not have been torn away from their roots, rolled, broken, mashed, and mixed in endless confusion, similarly to those now in my possession.

There is also another consideration: geologists who contend for the central heat of the earth assert that substances subjected to great pressure under the sea become altered: hence, in conformity with their theory, these shells could not have been long buried under a deep ocean, and afterwards raised in their pristine state. So little changed are these shells, except in form, that they appear as if they had been heaped together and squeezed in mud within a few years from the present time.

One remarkable place, easy of access, where any person can inspect these shelly remains, is Port San Julian. There, cliffs, from ten to a hundred feet high, are composed of nothing but such earth and fossils; and as those dug from the very tops of the cliffs are just as much compressed as those at any other part, it follows that they were acted upon by an immense weight not now existing. From this one simple fact may be deduced the conclusions--that Patagonia was once under the sea; that the sea grew deeper over the land in a tumultuous manner, rushing to and fro, tearing up and heaping together shells which once grew regularly or in beds: that the depth of water afterwards became so great as to squeeze or mass the earth and shells together by its enormous pressure; and that after being so forced down, the cohesion of the mass became sufficient to resist the separating power of other waves, during the subsidence of that ocean which had overwhelmed the land. If it be shewn that Patagonia was under a deep sea, not in consequence of the land having sunk, but because of the water having risen, it will follow as a necessary consequence that every other portion of the globe must have been flooded to a nearly equal height, at the same time; since the tendency to equilibrium in fluids would prevent any one part of an ocean from rising much above any other part, unless sustained at a greater elevation by external force; such as the attraction of the moon, or sun; or a strong wind; or momentum derived from their agency. Hence therefore, if Patagonia was covered to a great depth, all the world was covered to a great depth; and from those shells alone my own mind is convinced, (independent of the Scripture) that this earth has undergone an universal deluge.

The immense fields of lava, spoken of in a preceding page (633), and which to an ordinary observer appear to be horizontal, are spread almost evenly over such an extent of country, that the only probable conclusion seems to be, that the lava was ejected while a deep sea covered the earth, and that tidal oscillations,[11] combined with immense pressure, spread and smoothed it, while in a rapidly cooling though viscous state, over the surface of the land.

The vast quantity of shingle, or rounded stones of all sizes, may be accounted for in a manner unconnected with that of water acting upon a shore; though doubtless a great proportion of the shingle we see has been rounded in that manner. Melted stone, thrown out of a volcano, and propelled through water with great velocity, might be rounded and cooled as shot are when dropped into water from a tower. In modern volcanoes we observe that some matter is thrown into the air, while other, and the greater quantity, runs over the edges of a crater, overflowing the adjacent tracts of land.

Proceeding to the west coast of South America, we find that near Concepcion there are beds of marine shells at a great height above the level of the sea. These, say geologists, were once under the ocean, but, in consequence of the gradual upheaval of the land, are now far above it. They are closely compressed together, and some are broken, though of a very solid and durable nature; and being near the surface of the land are covered with only a thin stratum of earth. They are massed together in a manner totally different from any in which they could have grown, therefore the argument used in Patagonia is again applicable here. But in addition to this, there is another fact deserving attention: namely, that there are similar beds of similar shells, (identical with living species) about, or rather below the level of the present ocean, and at some distance from it.[12]

In crossing the Cordillera of the Andes Mr. Darwin found petrified trees, embedded in sandstone, six or seven thousand feet above the level of the sea: and at twelve or thirteen thousand feet above the sea level he found fossil sea-shells, limestone, sandstone, and a conglomerate in which were pebbles of the “rock with shells.” Above the sandstone in which the petrified trees were found, is “a great bed, apparently about one thousand feet thick, of black augitic lava; and over this there are at least five grand alternations of such rocks, and aqueous sedimentary deposits, amounting in thickness to several thousand feet.”[13] These wonderful alternations of the consequences of fire and flood, are, to me, indubitable proofs of that tremendous catastrophe which alone could have caused them;--of that awful combination of water and volcanic agency which is shadowed forth to our minds by the expression “the fountains of the great deep were broken up, and the windows of heaven were opened.”

The upheaval of the island of Santa Maria has been quoted by geologists, from my statement; and it will be interesting to learn whether that island has remained at its new elevation, or whether, like the shore at Talcahuano,[14] it has sunk down again. If the coast in that neighbourhood has been gradually rising, it is strange that old Penco Castle should still stand so low (p. 421).

In Mr. Lyell’s Elements of Geology,[15] he mentions Mr. Darwin having found, near Callao, “at the altitude of eighty-five feet above the sea, pieces of cotton thread, plaited rush, and the head of a stalk of Indian corn, all of which had evidently been imbedded with the shells” (marine). “At the same height on the neighbouring mainland, he found other signs corroborating the opinion that the ancient bed of the sea had there also been uplifted eighty-five feet, since the region was first peopled by the Peruvian race.” The neighbourhood of Lima has suffered from immense waves caused by earthquakes, and the relics found among the shells may have been scattered by one of those waves. The bed of shells may have been disturbed by the earthquake and its consequences, the ground may have been rent, and afterwards closed again, or the opening may have been filled up by loose earth and anything lying on it, as has taken place at Concepcion. That the country near Callao, or Lima, has not been upheaved, to any sensible amount, since the last great earthquake, which was accompanied by a wave that swept over and destroyed Callao, is evident from the present position of a pillar erected soon after that event to mark the place to which the waves advanced inland.[16] This pillar now stands so low, that waves, such as those which ruined Talcahuano, would inevitably reach its base; again destroying the whole of Callao, still situated on a flat, very few feet above the sea, near where old Callao stood.

I have now mentioned the principal facts connected with the Beagle’s voyage, which I am desirous of noticing with reference to the Deluge. Want of space prevents my adding others: I have hardly room left to lay before my young readers some general considerations, arising partly out of these facts, which I hope may interest--perhaps be useful to them.

When one thinks of the Deluge, questions arise, such as “where did the water come from to make the flood; and where did it go to after the many months it is said to have covered the earth?” To the first the simplest answer is “from the place whence the earth and its oceans came:”--the whole being greater than its part, it may be inferred that the source which supplied the whole could easily supply an inferior part:--and, to the second question,--“part turned into earth, by combination with metallic bases; part absorbed by, and now held in the earth; and part evaporated.”[17] We know nothing of the state of the earth, or atmosphere surrounding it, before the Flood; therefore it is idle and unphilosophical to reason on it, without a fact to rely on. We do not know whether it moved in the same orbit; or turned on its axis in a precisely similar manner;--whether it had then huge masses of ice near the poles;--or whether the moon was nearer to it, or farther off. Believers in the Bible know, however, that the life of man was very much longer than it now is, a singular fact, which seems to indicate some difference in atmosphere, or food, or in some other physical influence. It is not so probable that the constitution of man was very different (because we see that human peculiarities are transmitted from father to son), as it is to suppose that there was a difference in the region where he existed. It is easy to settle such speculations by the reflection--“It was the will of Him who is Almighty;” but as in most cases we see that secondary causes are employed to work out His will, we may imagine that the extraordinary prolongation of man’s existence was effected by such means.

Connected with these questions respecting the additional quantity of water is the reflection that the amount must have been very great. This may be placed in another light. Sir John Herschel says,[18] “On a globe of sixteen inches in diameter such a mountain (five miles high) would be represented by a protuberance of no more than one hundredth part of an inch, which is about the thickness of ordinary drawing paper. Now as there is no entire continent, or even any very extensive tract of land, known, whose general elevation above the sea is any thing like half this quantity, it follows, that if we would construct a correct model of our earth, with its seas, continents, and mountains, on a globe sixteen inches in diameter, the whole of the land, with the exception of a few prominent points and ridges, must be comprised on it within the thickness of thin writing paper; and the highest hills would be represented by the smallest visible grains of sand.”--Such being the case, a coat of varnish would represent the diluvial addition of water; and how small an addition to the mass does it appear!

Let us now refer briefly to the recorded account of the Flood. Without recapitulating dates and events, I will at once advert to the ark:--an immense vessel,[19] constructed of very durable wood,[20] and well stored with vegetable provision for all that it contained. Some cavillers have objected to the heterogeneous mixture of animals embarked; on the ground that they could not have been assembled; and would have destroyed one another. We may reply: He who made, could surely manage. But, without direct miraculous interposition (though we should never forget that man is a miracle, that this world is a miracle, that the universe is a miracle), imagine the effect that would be produced on the animal creation by the approach of such a war of elements. Do we not now find animals terrified by an earthquake--birds shunning the scene of violence,--dogs running out of a town,[21] and rats forsaking a sinking ship? What overcoming terror would possess the animated beings on an island, if it were found to be rapidly sinking while worse than tropical torrents, aggregated water-spouts, thunder and lightning, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions united to dismay, if not to paralyse, the stoutest human heart: yet such probably would be but a faint similitude of the real deluge. Those who have themselves witnessed the war of elements, in some regions of our globe, are perhaps more able to conceive an idea, however inadequate, of such a time, than persons who have scarcely travelled beyond Europe, or made more than ordinary sea voyages. Happily for man, hurricanes or typhoons occur but rarely: earthquakes, on a great scale; their overwhelming waves; and devastating eruptions of volcanoes, still less often. That the approach of a general calamity would have affected animals, what we now see leads us to infer, and that many would have fled to the ark, is only in accordance with the wonderful instinct they are gifted with for self-preservation. Proud man would, in all probability, have despised the huge construction of Noah, and laughed to scorn the idea that the mountains could be covered, even when he saw the waters rising. Thither, in his moral blindness, he would have fled, with numbers of animals that were excluded from the ark, or did not go to it; for we do not see all animals, even of one kind, equally instinctive. As the creatures approached the ark, might it not have been easy to admit some, perhaps the young and the small, while the old and the large were excluded?[22] As we do not know what was the connection or partition of land, before the deluge; how the creatures were distributed; or, what was the difference of climate between one region and another; we cannot say that any particular kind could not have been near the ark because of crossing the sea, or having far to travel.

There is abundant proof that animals have changed their habits, shape, coat, colour, or size, in consequence of migration, or transportation to different climates; therefore we cannot tell, from what is now seen, what alterations have taken place since their second dispersion.

Many able men[23] have pointed out how water penetrating to metallic bases, may cause volcanic eruptions; how matter thrown up, and materials torn or washed off the earth may have combined, mechanically as well as chemically; how gases may have assisted the transformations: how creatures may have been instantaneously overwhelmed, or gradually entombed; how lime may have been one among many powerful agents; how seeds, and spawn, and the germs of insects may have been preserved; and why, among such multitudes of fossil remains as we now find, only in a few places are there remains of man incontrovertibly fossil.[24]

Still there are some points but lightly touched, or unnoticed, by any person whose works bearing particularly on this subject I have yet seen. One is the rapidity with which certain substances combine under water, and form stone; such, for instance,[25] as those used in Roman cement:--another is the possibility of fragile substances, such as shells, small creatures, leaves, corallines, branches, &c., being enveloped in a muddy matrix, while floating at various depths, according to their specific gravities; and the precipitation (chemically speaking) or consolidation, or simple deposition of such cohering masses.[26]

The similarity of coal to asphalte inclines one to suspect an identity of origin; and that coal, in a fluid state, enveloped quantities of vegetable matter--was for some time agitated by the continual tides and tidal currents of the diluvial ocean, and afterwards hardened by cooling, by pressure, or by chemical change; if not by all three. We find the impressions of leaves, stems, and branches--and even large woody trunks embedded in coal: but that the matrix, in which the leaves were enveloped and subjected to pressure, was not triturated vegetable matter is probable, because the casts of delicate vegetable substances found in it show few, if any, signs of friction or maceration. The impressions are as beautifully perfect as those of shells in fossils where the shell itself has disappeared. Might we not as well say that limestone was formed out of decomposed or pulverised shells, as assert that coal was formed out of the luxuriant herbage, the ferns and the palms, of a former state of the world?

Asphalte is at first buoyant; that trees and other vegetable productions are so I need not remark; but coal sinks in water, and asphalte may be altered chemically so as to sink like coal. Experiments on the asphalte of the famous lake at Trinidad have proved that there is so very close an analogy between that substance and coal, that a gas, exactly resembling coal gas, and burning equally well; a bituminous oil; a substance like coal-tar; and a residuum, similar to coke; result from its distillation.

Electricity may have been a powerful agent in crystallization; in the rapid deposition of strata;[27] in the formation of mineral veins;[28] in earthquakes and volcanoes; in the formation or decomposition of water; and in other ways of which we are yet, and perhaps ever shall be, totally ignorant.

Successive strata may have been rapidly deposited by tidal oscillations and currents, aiding chemical or mechanical combinations.

The depth to which bodies would sink in an ocean several miles deep has not been proved, and there is reason to think that it is much less than people generally imagine. An eminent man has said that a knowledge of “the depression of the bed of the ocean below the surface, over all its extent, is attainable (with whatever difficulty and however slowly) by direct sounding;”[29] and, in consequence of a conversation on this subject with him in 1836, he wrote to me, suggesting a mode which might be tried. I consulted with a friend as to the possibility of success, and his letter,[30] taken in connection with the facts related by Scoresby;[31] with what has been found by those who have sounded to great depths; and with my own practical experience in sounding--has induced me to think that man never will reach the lowest depths of the deepest oceans by any method his ingenuity may contrive;--because the water increases in density with the depth, in a ratio perhaps more than arithmetical. Every seaman knows that in sounding at great depths very heavy leads must be used with ordinary lines, or very thin lines with ordinary leads; the object being the same--that of overcoming the augmenting buoyancy of the line by a weight unusually heavy. But line, such as is used for sounding, is not buoyant at the surface of the sea; a coil of it thrown overboard sinks directly. Then what is it that causes any weight attached to a sounding-line to sink slower and more slowly, after the first few hundred fathoms, the deeper it penetrates; if not the increased resistance to sinking, found by the weight and line? “Friction, caused by passing through the water,” I may be told. Can that friction be compared with the augmented tendency to sink that would be given by the continually increasing weight of line, if the water did not increase in density?

The pressure of the column of water over any weight, after it has been sunk some hundred fathoms, is shown by the time and exertion required to haul it up again. The operation of sounding in very deep water, with any considerable weight, occupies several hours, and a great number of men. That water is elastic has been proved by Canton’s experiments as well as others: but there are familiar illustrations of this fact visible in ricochet shot, in ‘ducks and drakes,’ in the splashing of water, and in the rebounding of rain-drops from water. Being elastic, and the lower strata being under enormous pressure, it follows that those strata of water must be more dense than the body above them. No one doubts that the lower regions of the atmosphere are denser than the higher; yet air is but a rarer and much more elastic fluid than water. That which takes place in air, to a great extent, may be expected to occur in a very diminished degree with water. If it were not so, why should stones be blown up, casks violently burst, or rocks suddenly torn asunder by the application of the principle usually described as the hydrostatic paradox? If the water were not highly compressed before the explosion takes place, would there not be a gradual yielding, a tearing asunder by degrees, instead of a sudden and violent bursting?

The object of this digression is to show that although bodies which are not buoyant may sink to a considerable depth, it does not follow that they must sink to the bottom. Each separate thing may sink a certain distance, in proportion to its specific gravity, and there remain. The greatest depths ever reached by heavy weights, attached to lines, do not exceed a mile and a-half; a small distance, probably, compared with the depth of the diluvial flood.

Although metals, stone, rock, or coal may have sunk deeply in the waters, other substances, such as earth, mud, bones, animal and human remains, &c., may have been held at various depths until decomposed by water; or combined and consolidated by volcanic gases, or electric currents. In this manner the preservation of delicate corallines, shells, skeletons of animals, &c., may be accounted for. Suspended in water, surrounded by earth in a dissolved state, combined by chemical agency, deposited on land, and consolidated by pressure, by volcanic or by latent heat, they may have become fossils. Thick skinned animals may have floated longest, because their hides would have buoyed them up for a greater length of time,[32] hence their remains should be found near, or upon the surface of the ground, in some cases water-worn, in others uninjured, according as they had been strewed among shingle, or deposited in a yielding mass. That bones were not rolled about much among the stones in which they are found,[33] is evident from the fact that bones, if so rolled among them, would soon be ground to powder. It is clear that, however much the bones may have been water-worn before deposition on land, both they, and the adjacent shingle, must have been deposited there nearly about the same time.

Tripoli stone, and other substances composed chiefly, if not entirely, of microscopic insects, may have been formed by the accumulation and cohesion of myriads of such minute creatures, swept together off the land, like swarms of locusts, aggregated by the rolling of the waves, agglutinated, deposited on the land, and afterwards heavily compressed. Or they may have been insects bred in water; such as those which Mr. Darwin calculated to amount to “one hundred thousand in a square inch of surface;” while the sea was streaked with them for a great distance.[34] Microscopic objects such as these may have been killed by some gas rising from a volcano beneath; then drawn together by mutual attraction, rolled over and over, and landed among other recent compositions. In what other way could such a mass of these animalcules be heaped together?

There are also effects of existing causes which authors have only mentioned by name, in reference to the Deluge, without explaining that the effects alluded to would have been enormously increased at that time;--I mean the tides.--In the Appendix to this volume is a short statement of the manner in which tides may act--upon the principles of the ocean oscillating in its bed; and of tides being caused, partly by the water being elevated by the moon and sun, partly by a westward momentum given to it by their attraction, and partly by the oscillation caused by the return of the fluid after being elevated. If this globe were covered with water to the height of a few miles above the present level of the ocean, three more particular effects would take place: an enormous pressure upon the previously existing ocean, and on all low land; a diminished gravity in the uppermost waters, resulting from their removal from the earth’s centre; and immense tides, in consequence of the increased depth of the mass, the diminished weight of the upper fluid, and the augmentation of the moon’s attraction. As the waters increased on the earth, the tides would also increase, and vast waves would rush against the sides of the mountains, stripping off all lighter covering, and blowing up,[35] or tearing down, enormous masses of rock. Similar effects would take place as the diluvial ocean decreased, until it became bounded by its proper limits. Such oscillations I conceive to be alluded to by the words “going and returning,”[36] and by the expression, “they go up by the mountains; they go down by the valleys;”[37] which exactly describes the rushing of enormous waves against high land. When a wave strikes against a rock, it dashes up every projection that opposes it; but--its impetus at an end--down the water runs again through cavities and hollows: such, on a grand scale, would be the effect of a diluvial wave urged against a mountain side.

In such a war of waters, earth, and fire; a buoyant, closed-in vessel--without masts, rudder, or external ‘hamper’ to hold wind, or catch a sea--might have floated uninjured; and the fewer openings, of any description, in her cover, or sides, the better for her security. Seeing nothing of the conflict around might have diminished the excessive terror which must have been felt by those that were within, except the confiding Chief. We do not find that the largest or highest ‘swell’ injures a good ‘sea-boat,’ when in deep water, and far from land: the foaming ‘breakers’ alone destroy. But, after all, such conjectures as these are vain, we cannot now know how far miraculous interposition extended--how far secondary causes were employed.

The landing of the ark on a mountain of middle height appears remarkable; because the climate of the highest, on which we might naturally suppose the ark rested, did we not know to the contrary, might have been insupportable during the time that Noah waited for the recess of the waters.[38] Reasoning from existing circumstances, the temperature of the surface of the ocean would have been nearly that of the contiguous air: but after the waters had receded, high mountain tops would have gradually acquired their present frozen state.

Here the reflection arises--when did icebergs begin to appear? Was not the climate equable and temperate all over the world for some time after the Deluge, in consequence of the slow drying and warming of tropical regions, and gradual formation of ice near the poles? Such a condition of climate would have favoured the distribution of animals. Those who oppose the idea that animals migrated to various quarters of the globe, surely do not reflect that the swallow, the wild swan, the wild goose, the wild horse, the Norway rat, and numerous other creatures, now migrate periodically in search of food or a better climate. Similar instinct may have taught animals to wander then, till they reached the places suited to them;[39] and there the same instinct would retain them. Want of proper food, or climate; or the attacks of enemies,[40] may have destroyed stragglers who did not migrate; therefore, when we find no kangaroos in Europe, it is no proof that kangaroos did not once exist there. Elks are now found in North America--we know they were formerly in Europe--is that race here now? During the first few hundred years after the flood, extraordinary changes may have taken place in the geography of the world, in consequence of the drying and altering of various portions; also from the effects of volcanic eruptions and earthquakes, occasioned perhaps by electric action on newly-exposed land, as well as by other causes. Many places, now islands, may have been united to a continent for a considerable period after the deluge; much land may have sunk down, much may have risen up, in various parts of the world. Such changes are said to be going on even now, though on a small scale (Lyell, Darwin, &c.); what may they not have been during the first few centuries after the flood? Volcanic eruptions, such as those of the Galapagos, Andes, Etna, Auvergne, Indian Islands, &c., were then perhaps in such activity as they have never shown since.

What the division in the earth was, in the days of Peleg, does not distinctly appear: but it could only have been a separation from the true faith; a partition of territory among men; or some mighty convulsion, some rending or contraction, as it were, of the earth, which was so general as to have occasioned a marked and unqualified record, as of an event well known to all.

Many philosophers think that the world has a central region of surpassing heat, and that the greater part of the interior of the globe is in a state of incandescence, if not of fusion. That small portion which they call the crust of the earth is supposed to be the only cooled part; and they differ merely as to the degree of fluidity in the central region. I take it for granted that they have duly estimated the moon’s tendency to cause tides in a fluid mass, within her influence:--if there were no crust, of course she would cause such an effect, but a well hardened case, we must suppose, can resist any such movement in the central fluid mass. Upon the principle of the arch, it would be easier to imagine resistance to pressure from without than from within; but the case or crust of our globe must be so solid that it neither yields nor vibrates to an internal expansive force.

This theory, however, is unsupported by any satisfactory evidence. Men of character and attainments have advocated it, although resting on conjecture: but when we look back along the roll of history, and discover so few philosophers who have not greatly erred, although famed in their day, it is natural to pause, and not acquiesce hastily in mere human assertion unsubstantiated by proof. Boring the ground, or examining the temperature of the bottom of a deep mine, affords no estimate for that of the central regions:--Sir John Herschel says,[41] that “the deepest mine existing does not penetrate half a mile below the surface; a scratch or pinhole duly representing it on the surface of such a globe, (sixteen inches in diameter), would be imperceptible without a magnifier.” As our globe is about eight thousand miles in diameter, and external influence may be supposed to penetrate some distance, we can draw but unsatisfactory conclusions from experiments at depths not nearly so great even as that to which the ocean descends, and made chiefly in temperate or cold climates.

Having no pretension to more knowledge than any observant seaman may acquire in the course of a few years active employment afloat, it would be as vain as presumptuous in me, were I to offer any conjecture about the central mass of the earth. Perhaps, at a future day, when the nature of aerolites; the agency of electricity; and of electric communication through the superficial, if not through the interior regions of the globe, are better known, other opinions, respecting this wonderful world which we inhabit, may be formed by philosophers.

I have now fulfilled my intention of endeavouring to be useful, in however small a degree, to young persons of my own profession. If the few remarks laid before them, in this and the preceding chapter, at all increase their interest in the subjects spoken of; and tend, even in the least, to warn them against assenting hastily to new theories--while they induce a closer examination into the Record of truth--my object in writing them will be fully attained.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] By which word I mean ‘Knowledge,’ in its most comprehensive signification.

[2] “A thousand years in thy sight are but as yesterday when it is past, and as a watch in the night.”--Ps. xc. ver. 4.

[3] I may, however, here remark to my young sailor friends, that the Jews, who perform their worship in Hebrew, and are naturally at least as much interested in the Old Testament as any people, use and prefer our authorised English translation.

[4] In classing one order of creatures above or below others, we may perhaps consider them as they appear to our apprehension, in comparison with others, but we must beware of thinking them more or less imperfect. Every creature is perfectly adapted to the condition and locality for which it is designed, and absolutely perfect (speaking generally). Some that are intended to live in the dark; or some that are to exist under pressure; may at first sight appear to us imperfect; perhaps shapeless, unsightly objects: but, after examination into their natural history, our hasty remark is succeeded by expressions of astonishment at such wonderful arrangements of Providence as are shewn--even in the most shapeless sea slug.

Multitudes of creatures exist now, especially in the sea, quite as apparently imperfect as those of the so called lowest order of animated creation, whose impressions are found in solid rocks. There may also be animals in deep waters that could not exist except under pressure.

[5] Rhind, Keith, Lyell, &c.

[6] Job. xxxviii. 6, 7.

[7] Much must depend upon the limit attached to the meaning of the word Heaven in the 1st Chapter of Genesis, and Heavens in the 2nd; viewed in connection with verses 1, 6, 7, 8, 9, 14, 15, 17, and 20 of Chap. i.; 1, 4, of Chap. ii.; verses 5, 7, 10, 13 of 2 Peter iii.; and very many other passages; not omitting the Lord’s prayer.

[8] We find it ordained in Gen. ii. 3; alluded to by Noah, chap. viii. ver. 10, 12; and afterwards observed regularly, down to the present time.

[9] Sharon Turner, Harcourt, &c.

[10] On this subject, the pressure of an ocean, Mr. Lyell remarks, (Elements of Geology, 1838, pp. 7, 8, 9.) “When sand and mud sink to the bottom of a deep sea the particles are not pressed down by the enormous weight of the incumbent ocean; for the water, which becomes mingled with the sand and mud, resists pressure with a force equal to that of the column of fluid above.” “Nevertheless if the materials of a stratum remain in a yielding state, and do not set or solidify, they will be gradually squeezed down by the weight of other materials successively heaped upon them, just as soft clay or loose sand on which a house is built may give way. By such downward pressure particles of clay, sand, and marl may become packed into a smaller space, and be made to cohere together permanently.”

“But the action of heat at various depths is probably the most powerful of all causes in hardening sedimentary strata.”

In reflecting upon these passages it appears to me that Mr. Lyell has supposed what may not always take place in a deep sea, namely--that sand and mud sink to the bottom.

Whenever particles of sand and mud are at the bottom, they must be lower than contiguous particles of water, or they could not be at the bottom; therefore those particles of sand and mud have water above, while resting upon some other substance below. Pressure there can be none, excepting of some earthy particles upon others, while the specific gravity of the sand and mud exceeds that of the displaced fluid. But, if the depth of water be increased, and its specific gravity at the bottom augmented, the sand and mud at the bottom must rise, if they do not cohere together, and to the surface on which they lie; in which case the increasing weight and density of water would tend to compress and make them cohere still more.

The smaller kinds of sea shells are very little heavier than sea-water. This would prevent their being carried by the action of the sea to great depths, even if it were possible for them to be so rolled over rocks, sand, or mud, in which they would stick, or be buried, before they had been moved many miles from the place where they grew. These two considerations may help to account for the fact that seamen do not find impressions of shells, on the ‘arming’ of the lead, when sounding in very deep water, at a considerable distance from any shore where they grow. Sea-shells, I need hardly remark, grow only in comparatively shallow water. The specific gravity of oyster shell, when dead, is about twice that of sea-water (2092, 1028). Most other shells are much lighter, and but few at all heavier than the oyster.

Before ending this note I must remark that the horizontal movement of water near the bottom, though gentle, may tend to press together and smooth any loose sand, mud that sinks, oazy clay, or fragments of shells, before many of their particles travel far. Water in rapid motion is known to hold sand as well as mud in suspension, but not shells, unless the current is very strong. To such a constant agitation of the sea, oscillating gently with each tide, we may perhaps ascribe the comparatively level and smoothened state of the bed of the ocean, where it has hitherto been sounded. Excepting near irregular, rocky land, one finds, generally speaking, no ravines, no vallies, no abrupt transitions in the bottom of the sea. For miles together there is an almost equal or gradually altering depth of water: and little similarity can be traced between the contour of the bed of a sea and the neighbouring dry land, until you are near the shore, where the sea acts differently, and irregular bottom is as frequent as it is usually dangerous for shipping.

[11] See remarks on tides in the Appendix.

[12] Pages 421, 2, 3.

[13] Mr. Darwin’s letters to Professor Henslow: printed for the Cambridge Philosophical Society--1835.

[14] See pages 420-1.

[15] 1838, pp. 295-6.

[16] In 1746.

[17] Electricity may have acted a prominent part in these changes.

[18] Treatise on Astronomy, Cabinet Cyclopædia, page 22.

[19] Sharon Turner, Harcourt, Burnett, &c.

[20] Some of our English ships have lasted more than a century.

[21] Concepcion and Talcahuano, pp. 403, 5.

[22] The small number of enormous animals that have existed since the Deluge, may be a consequence of this shutting out of all but a very few. We are not told how many creatures died in the ark; some of those least useful to man may have gone: but, even if none died, the few that quitted the ark could hardly have long withstood the rapid increase of enemies, unless their increase had been proportionably quick. Whether Job had himself seen, or only heard of, the leviathan and the behemoth, does not appear; but that those monsters were the megalosaurus and the iguanadon there seems to be little doubt (Burnett, p. 67.) Excepting the serpent in Africa, which opposed the passage of Regulus and a Roman army, I am not aware whether profane history mentions any well-authenticated instance of such enormous reptiles; but I cannot look at our representations of dragons, wyverns, griffins, &c. without thinking that, at least, tradition must have handed down the memory of some such monsters; even if a stray one here and there did not actually live in the earlier historical ages: pterodactyles, plesiosauri, ichthyosauri, &c. are too like them, in general figure, to admit of this idea being treated as altogether chimerical. Tradition, no doubt exaggerated by imagination, may have handed down the fact of such creatures having once existed: indeed the casual finding of a skeleton might confirm reports, if not originate them.

[23] Davy, Sharon Turner, Fairholme, Burnett, Granville Penn, Sumner, Young, Rhind, Lyell, Cockburn, &c.

[24] These fossil remains of man are not only mixed with those of animals, or fish; but in some cases they are buried at a distance beneath fossil bones of animals.--See Fairholme on the Mosaic Deluge, pp. 41-52; Miers’s Chile, vol. i. p. 455, &c.

[25] Lyell, Elements of Geology, 1838, p. 75-6.

[26] The simplest experiments with pulverised, or numerous minute substances in water, shew that they attract one another mutually, and then cohere.

[27] Crosse.

[28] Fox.

[29] Treatise on Astronomy, by Sir John Herschel--Cabinet Cyclopædia--page 154.

[30] “I return Sir John Herschel’s letter on deep-sea sounding. Anything from him is sure to be interesting and instructive; but there is a circumstance unnoticed in his communication which might obstruct the descent of a sounding apparatus to very great depth.

“Mr. Perkins found that at a depth of only 3,000 feet, sea-water was compressed ¹⁄₂₇th of its bulk at the surface. (Lib^y. of Useful Knowledge, vol. 1. Art. Hydrostatics.) Hydrostatic pressure has usually been estimated from depth alone, assuming that the density of the fluid was uniform; such, however, cannot be the case in an elastic fluid like water, for at great depths, being in a compressed state, it is more dense than at the surface.

“In estimating the amount of hydrostatic pressure at great depths, we should know the vertical height of the column and mean density of the fluid; and since density increases with depth, by reason of superincumbent pressure, the water at great depths must be enormously compressed, and, consequently, in a very dense state. Let us now inquire how increasing density (from compression alone) might affect an apparatus sent down by a weight, in order to reach the bottom, presuming that the solids composing the float and sinker were incompressible, and retained their form and magnitude during the operation.

“Let bees’-wax be a float, and cast-iron a sinker, and let each, for illustration, be one cubic foot in dimensions. Let it be possible that at some depth water may be compressed into one-fourth of its bulk at the surface, and still retain the properties of a fluid; let it also be granted that a solid will swim if specifically lighter than the contiguous fluid, and sink if heavier than an equal volume of the fluid. The specific gravity of bees’-wax is stated to be 964; that of cast iron, 7248; and that of sea-water at the surface, 1028: hence the buoyancy of wax immersed in sea-water at the surface, may be called 64, and the tendency of cast-iron to sink, from the same surface, 6220. Deducting 64, we have 6156 as the whole tendency of the mass (wax attached to iron) to sink from the surface. Let us now suppose that the machine has attained a depth where the water is compressed into a four-fold density, represented by 4112 for a cubic foot; and we have 3148 for the tendency of the wax to float, but only 3136 for the tendency of the iron to sink: and the inclination to ascend rather than descend, might be represented by 12. Thus we see that an apparatus may not be certain of arriving at the bottom of an ocean: as in an opposite manner, a balloon may not reach the highest regions of the atmosphere. Either machine could only attain a position where there would be no tendency either to descend or ascend.

“WILLIAM WALKER.” Plymouth, 24th Feb. 1837.

[31] Scoresby’s Arctic Regions.

[32] When ‘blown’ after putrefaction began.

[33] Those, for instance, of Blanco Bay, p. 112.

[34] Darwin’s Letters to Professor Henslow, printed for private distribution among the members of the Cambridge Philosophical Society: in 1835.

[35] By the extraordinary power, or principle, called the hydrostatic paradox.

[36] Gen. viii., v. 5, marginal translation.

[37] Psalm civ. ver. 8.

[38] The Deluge began in the six hundredth year of Noah’s life, in the second month, and seventeenth day of the month (Gen. vii. 11),; and Noah quitted the ark in the six hundred and first year, in the second month, and twenty-seventh day of the month (Gen. viii. 14), making a period of twelve months and ten days. Noah waited in the ark nearly five months after it grounded on Ararat.

[39] We see abundant evidence that either living creatures are adapted to particular climates and localities, or that climates and localities are adapted to particular creatures; which latter, it has been proved by many authors, are altered by any material change of the former.

[40] It should be remembered, that man was allowed to eat flesh after the flood. Gen. ix. ver. 3.

[41] Treatise on Astronomy; Cabinet Cyclopædia, p. 22, Art. 30.

INDEX.

Aborigines of South America -- names and peculiarities of divisions, 129, 130 -- territories, language, 131, 132 -- numbers, 133 -- Patagonians, size, colour, dress, height, huts, arms, horses, country, 133-137 -- Fuegians, territories, the ‘Yacana’ tribe, the ‘Tekeenica,’ appearance, dress, arms, huts, canoes, country, 137-141 -- the ‘Alikhoolip,’ finer race, wigwams, country, 140, 141 -- ‘Pecheray’ tribe, 141 -- ‘Huemul’ tribe, partaking both of Patagonian and Fuegian habits, dogs, ‘zapallos,’ 141, 142 -- ‘Chonos’ tribe, 142, 143 -- further details of Patagonians, 144-174 -- of Fuegians, 175-188 -- Chonos Indians, 189-197 -- at Chilóe, 380 -- Huilli-che, 380-384 -- near Valdivia, 398-401.

Abrolhos, 63 -- Massey’s lead, 64 -- anchorage, height, birds, turtle, fish, remarks on squalls near, 65, 66, 78, 506.

Aconcagua, height, 425, 481.

Adventure, schooner, purchased, 274 -- story, 275 -- at Maldonado, 283-292 -- at Port Desire, 316 -- plans, 322 -- at Port Louis, 331, 332 -- survey, at Port Famine, 358 -- in Cockburn Channel, 359 -- enters Pacific with Beagle, at Chilóe, 360 -- Valparaiso, 361 -- sold, 361, 362.

Aigle Rock, supposed, vainly sought for, 357.

Alau island, old native there, 387.

Alerse forests, 391.

Alligator, at Feejee Islands, 562.

Andes, Cordillera of the, 349, 351, 352 -- drainage, 353, 354 -- view of, height, 481 -- fossils, 667.

Andres San, Bay, 369, 370.

Anegada Bay, Spanish ship wrecked in, 287, 288 -- sounded, survey, 289.

Antonio San, Cape, coast near, 97.

---- San, Port, 311.

Araucanians, chief, hordes, 106 -- notice of, 149 -- horsemanship, 160 -- laws, 164 -- Colipi, son, 431 -- battle, Villagran, 435, 436 -- curious story, Caciques, 439-441 -- country, cattle, cottages, 442 -- ‘ranchos,’ 443 -- dress, features, cloth, ornaments, 463, 464 -- boys, oratory, 478.

Arauco, 437 -- ‘Comandante,’ 438 -- Ercilla, caciques, Colocolo, story, election of supreme chief, curious trial, Caupolican, Indian attack, 439-442 -- town again seen, 464.

Argentina, grotesque group near, ‘Comandante,’ suspicions, 102, 103 -- ‘fortaleza,’ ‘gauchos,’ inhabitants, advantages, 104, 105 -- alarm caused by Beagle, 112, 113.

Arica, coast near, 482.

Ariel rocks, vain search for, 119.

Armadilloes, four kinds, 107.

Arrival in England, 638.

Aura island, murders, 519.

Ayres, Buenos, 94, 95.

Bahia, or San Salvador, currents before reaching, scenery, present state, 60 -- slavery, its evils, 61, 62 -- city described, 63 -- survey, shoals, current, ship’s course, 64, 78.

Bahias Dos, Cape, 305.

Bank Yngles in River Plata, 92, 286.

Barometer, 49, 83 -- fall and changes before ‘pampero,’ 86, 91 -- in gale, 226 -- at Falklands, 244, 245 -- anomaly near Valdivia, 396 -- before great earthquake, 411, 412.

Beagle at Falmouth, 2 -- paid off, 7 -- recommissioned 14, 17 -- outfit, 18-22 -- plan of voyage, 24-41 -- detention, 42 -- course, 44, 45 -- at Santa Cruz, 48 -- Cape Verde Islands, 51 -- Fernando de Noronha, 59 -- Bahia, 60 -- passing Cape Frio, 66 -- at Rio de Janeiro, 73-81 -- equipment described, 82 -- in River Plata, 85 -- danger in Pampero in former voyage, 87 -- at Monte Video, 94 -- Port Belgrano, 101-110 -- Blanco Bay, 111 -- under Monte Hermoso, 112 -- at Buenos Ayres, Monte Video, 114 -- San Blas, 116 -- goes towards Tierra del Fuego, weather, 117 -- extraordinary white-coloured space of sea, 118 -- off Santa Inez, 119 -- in Good Success Bay, passes Cape Horn, 122 -- in St. Martin Cove, 124 -- off York-Minster heights in heavy gale, 125 -- loses boat, 126 -- in Goree Road, 127 -- in Scotchwell Bay, under sail during bad night between Wollaston and Navarin Islands, 223 -- Packsaddle Bay, 224 -- Good Success Bay, 225 -- Berkeley Sound, 227, 268 -- Johnson Cove, 270 -- in gale off River Negro, 281 -- at Monte Video, Maldonado, 282 -- proceedings, 283, 286 -- at San Blas Banks, 286 -- River Negro, Port Belgrano, 288 -- sails with H.M.S. Snake, returns to Monte Video, 292 -- strikes a rock in Port Desire, 317 -- Port San Julian, 318-321 -- passes First Narrow, 322 -- at Woollya, 323 -- Port Louis, 327 -- River Santa Cruz, 336 -- Cape Virgins, 357, 358 -- new route, 358 (note) -- under sail in Cockburn Channel, 359 -- Valparaiso, 361 -- San Carlos, 363 -- among Chonos Islands, 364-378 -- San Carlos, 378 -- soundings along coast of South Chile, 396 -- Valdivia, 397 -- Talcahuano, 402 -- Valparaiso, 419 -- Concepcion, 421 -- narrow escape, Maule, 424 -- proceedings, 424-426 -- refit in Herradura Cove, 426, 427 -- Valparaiso, 428 -- Callao, 482 -- at Galapagos Islands, 484-505 -- at Low Islands, 506 -- discovers islands, 507, 508 -- Otaheite, or Tahiti, 508-557 -- Navigators, Friendly, and Feejee Islands, 559-562 -- at New Zealand, 563-619 -- ‘Three Kings’ islets, 620 -- Port Jackson, Sydney, 621 -- Hobart Town, 623 -- King George Sound, 624 -- Keeling Island, 628 -- Mauritius, Cape of Good Hope, St. Helena, Ascension, Bahia, Cape Verde and Azores Islands, arrives in England, 638.

Beagle Channel, 218 -- tide, 219.

Beauchesne Island, 327.

Belgrano Port, 100, 101 -- fossils, animals, fish, 107 -- climate, tides, pumice-stones, 108 -- Beagle there again, 288.

Bellaco Rock examined, tides, refraction, 318, 319.

Berkeley Sound, 227 -- lights on hills, 276 -- re-visited, 327 -- shallow soundings thence to River Santa Cruz, 336.

Birds, flight of, indicates direction of land, 557, 558, 628.

Blanco Bay, shore between it and Cape Corrientes, without anchorage, tosca, 99, 100.

Blanco Cape, tide-races, 303 -- coast near, salinas, guanacoes, 304.

Blas San, Bay, 116, 117 -- banks, 286, 287 -- Liebre and Paz there, Indians, 296, 297.

Boats, excursion to Woollya, 202-206 -- arrival there, 207 -- on westward exploration, pass Murray Narrow, canoes, Shingle Point, 215 -- endangered by fall of ice-cliff, 217 -- enter Beagle channel, difficulties, 218 -- return to Woollya, 220 -- in Ponsonby Sound, Button Island, 223 -- yawl swamped, 276 -- up Chupat River, 307 -- excursion up River Santa Cruz, 337-357 -- whale-boat in Chonos Archipelago, 363, 364 -- boat exploration of Chilóe Archipelago by Lieut. Sulivan and Mr. Usborne, 364, 366, 378 -- northwards by Mr. Stokes, 367 -- proceedings 374, 375 -- boat excursion (in 1829), 393-395 -- expeditions under Lieut. Sulivan, Mr. Chaffers and Mr. Mellersh at Galapagos, 485, 486, 489-497.

Boroa Indians, light coloured, origin, 402 -- further notices, 465.

Brett Cape, 564, 565.

Brightman Inlet, fish, 295.

Brisbane, Mr. 270 -- account of ruin of Port Louis, 271 -- murdered, 327, 328 -- burial, character, shipwreck, 332-335.

Butterflies, singular flight of, 117.

Button Island, 223.

Bynoe, Mr. Benjamin, 19, 21 -- skill and kindness, 77, 78 -- accompanies Fuegians on shore, 127 -- anecdotes, 180, 181 -- account of Indians near Gulf of Trinidad, 197, 198 -- remarks on Easter Bay, large deserted canoes and wigwams, 199 -- various notices, 200 -- at Woollya, 320 -- River Santa Cruz, 337-356 -- lands on James Island, Galapagos, 497 -- weather during stay, 500.

Calbuco, meaning of word, 377 -- origin of name, 387.

Calbucanos, mode of life, 390 -- alerse planks, astillero, 391 -- loads, land-slips, 392.

Callao, 482.

Camarones Bay, wood, water, grass, Indian tombs, 305.

Carlos, San, 363 -- climate, 386.

Carmen, Del, Nuestra Señora, Patagonians near, 145 -- situation, houses, 298 -- fort, inhabitants, ‘Estancia del Rey,’ settlers, Indians, 299 -- anecdotes, 300 -- customs and manners, trade, coal, 301 -- Paz and Liebre there, 311 -- wild fowl, hunting, Indian attack in 1783, 313, 314.

----, American schooner, hired to go for Challenger’s crew, 468 -- met dismasted, 473 -- sketch of cruise, 474, 476.

Carrasco, Don Eduardo, Hydrographer at Lima, renders material assistance to Expedition, 484.

Castro, 382 -- climate, 386.

Catharina, Santa, good harbour, inhabitants, 83.

Cattle, wild, hunt, at Falklands, 279-281.

Cavahi Island discovered, 508.

‘Cesares, Los,’ rumours of settlement, 287 -- Spaniards’ visit and description of it, 392, 393.

Chaffers, Mr. 270 -- sails in Adventure, 274 -- at Gorriti, 284 -- examines inlet and river at Port Desire, 316, 317 -- ascends River Santa Cruz, 337 -- examines Hood Island, and other places in Galapagos Islands, 485, 497.

Challenger, H.M.S. at Falklands, 328 -- search for murderers, 329, 331 -- report of loss, 428 -- confirmed, 429 -- Blonde sails to assist, 430 -- party go over land, 431 -- ferry, estate, Don Juan Rivera, 432, 433 -- Colcura, 434 -- Villagran, Chivilingo, 436 -- coal, Carampangue, 437 -- Arauco, 437-442 -- country, Indians, 443 -- Quiapo, 444 -- bad travelling, 445, 446 -- Tucapel, Valdivia, 447, 448 -- Leübu, party reach Challenger’s crew, 449 -- account of wreck and subsequent events, 451-460 -- party’s return, Quiapo, ‘Ulpu,’ cattle, 461 -- river, rancho, 462 -- Araucanians, 463, 464 -- Boroanos, Tubul River, 465 -- journey, 466, 467 -- Blonde, 469 -- goes to relieve Challenger’s crew, 469 -- delays, mistake, 470, 471 -- reach Leübu, 472 -- embarkation, 473 -- Talcahuano, 475 -- H.M.S. Conway receives crew and sails, 479 -- causes of wreck, 480.

Chilóe, inhabitants, 379 -- Indians, religion, 380 -- foreign settlers, kindness, barter, 381 -- fish, coal, towns, discovery, 382 -- population, decrease, mines, 383 -- early notices, name, pirates, Spaniards, 384 -- Indians’ regret of Spanish government, tithes, oppression, 385 -- anecdote, tasks, patriots, climate, 386 -- good sites for docks, tide-streams, 387 -- Chilote voyages, 392 -- deserters, Padre Forastes, expedition, 394 -- ‘vaqueano,’ search, 395 -- meteoric appearances (note), 395 -- earthquake, 416.

Chiut Island, strawberries, 387.

Chonos Indians, 130-142 -- boy on board Adeona, cannibalism, hostilities, 189 -- ‘Niqueaccas,’ quickness, religious ideas, ceremony, 190 -- burial-places, anecdote, ‘cubba,’ 191 -- charm, sagacity, local knowledge, pilotage, 192, 193 -- mode of declaring war, honesty, anecdotes, 195, 196 -- at Chilóe, 380 -- former numbers, 383.

Chonos Archipelago explored, 363-366 -- notices, early voyages, 367-369 -- further remarks, 374-377.

Chupat River, discovered, 306 -- described, Spaniards, cattle hunts, 307 -- entrance, 308, 309, 353.

Clive, Lieut., burial, 335.

Clouds, remarks on, 65, 66, 502 -- over low land, 506, 507, 563.

Cobija, 481.

Cockburn Channel, bad weather, Beagle under sail in, 359.

Colcura, heights of, hamlet, 434, 435.

Coliumo, 417, 424.

Colorado River, wolf seen near, 251, 295, 296 -- communication with Union Bay, 296 -- gale, ‘freshes,’ 302.

Concepcion, earthquake, preceding signs, 402 -- destruction of city, 403, 404 -- situation, anecdotes, 405 -- mutual assistance, 406 -- waves, 413-417 -- elevation and depression of land, 420 -- fossil shells, 421-423 -- coal, 424 -- re-visited, rebuilding, houses, Peruvians, 476, 477 -- country, 479.

Conchali, smuggling, 426.

Constitucion, vessel lent by Don Francisco Aguilar, goes with Mr. Usborne, 283, 284.

----, another vessel so named, lent by Don Francisco Vascuñan at Coquimbo, surveys coast, 427 -- at Callao, usefulness, 482 -- bought to survey coast of Peru, 483 -- sails, 484 -- (for proceedings see Sulivan, and Usborne).

Conway, H.M.S., passing through quantities of pumice-stone and ashes, 108, 109 -- receives crew of H.M.S. Challenger, 479.

Coquimbo, 427-479.

Corcovado, volcano, 376, 394.

Corrientes, Cape, rocks, 99 -- reported shoal, 292.

Cruz, Santa, capital of Teneriffe, appearance, 48.

----, river, explored, 336 -- estuary, banks, ‘steppes,’ cliffs, 337 -- barrenness, animals, climate, 338 -- mud-banks, tides, views, 339 -- water, 340 -- change of scenery, cold, 341 -- tracking, instruments, 342 -- frost, ostriches swimming, 343 -- rapidity of stream, smoke, Indian tracks, 344 -- ‘Indian Pass,’ rapids, windings, quantities of shingle, 345 -- heights, wastes, want of fuel, 346 -- temperature of air and water, earth cliffs, progress, lava cliffs, 347 -- lava district, ‘Basalt Glen,’ wild scene, 348 -- mirage, driftwood, boat stove, Andes, 349 -- guanacoes, birds of prey, bed of river, 350 -- views, weather, country, 351 -- walking party, direction of river, 352 -- velocity, trees, water, colour and temperature, drainage of Andes, sources, 353 -- Lake Viedma, or Capar, rivers, floods, 354 -- level of river, bones, 355 -- wild cats, return, mountains, rapid descent, fish, 356.

Currents near Bahia, 60 -- Abrolhos, 64 -- near Cape Frio, 70, 71 -- in Plata, 93, 226 -- from Tierra del Fuego and Staten Land to Falklands, 242, 243 -- near Mocha, 419 -- extraordinary, 480 -- near Galapagos, 484, 486, 488, 496 -- and temperature, 505, 562 -- Bay of Islands, 563 -- on passage from New Zealand to Port Jackson, temperature of water, 621 -- near North Keeling Island, 638.

Cutfinger Cove, striking scenery, immense canal, 202.

Dangerous Archipelago (see Low Islands).

Darwin, Mr. Charles, volunteers as naturalist, 18, 19 -- fossils near Point Alta, 106 -- pumice-stones, 108 -- accompanies party with Fuegians on shore, 127 -- goes in westward exploration, 215 -- saves boats, 217 -- at Maldonado, 284 -- plans, 286 -- at Argentina, 288 -- River Negro, 312 -- obtains interesting account of Indian attack on Carmen, 314 -- search for fresh water at Port San Julian, 320 -- ascends Santa Cruz, 327 -- goes away at Chilóe with Lieut. Sulivan, 364 -- rejoins Beagle, 366 -- excursions, 379-425 -- lands on James Island, 497-500 -- at Otaheite, 510-512 -- notices of natives, 522, 527, 543, 557 -- at New Zealand, 570 -- arrival in England, 638.

Darwin, Mount, 215 -- height, 216 -- Sound, 217, 218.

Deluge, remarks on facts with reference to, 657-682.

Desertas Islands, 386.

Desire, Port, coast from, to Valdes Creek, examined by Paz and Liebre, 282 -- Indians’ traces, wells full, 303 -- inlet examined, 316 -- river, rock, 317, 322.

Desolation, Cape, 218.

Diego San, Cape, breakers, 119, 120.

Divide, Point, burning-tree, slate, rock, 219.

Dogs, Patagonian, 151, 167, 174 -- Fuegian dogs trained to catch birds while roosting, 184 -- hunting, 187 -- fine animals, taught to bring in food, birds, hunt fish, 187 -- described, 201 -- at King George Sound, 627 -- at Keeling Islands, fishing, 634.

Douglas, Mr., engaged to collect information, 363 -- survey in boats, 364 -- remarks on Huilli-che superstitions, 388-390 -- on Calbucanos, 390, 391 -- Chilotes, voyages, father’s account of ‘Los Cesares,’ 392, 393.

Earle, Mr. Augustus, engaged as artist, 19 -- obliged to return to England, 20.

‘Eight stones,’ vain search for, 46.

Elena, Santa, Port, 305.

Equator, passages out and home, 3, 4 -- absurd ceremonies in crossing, 57 -- notice of by Kotzebue, 58.

English Bank (see Banco Yngles).

---- ---- (San Carlos), nature of bank, 378.

Estevan, San, or Stephen’s Port, distressed sailors, 370 -- story, 371, 372.

Falklands, bad weather, 226 -- aspect of land, wrecks, 227 -- position, number, asserted claims of various countries, 228, 237 -- Buenos Ayrean ‘comandante’ appointed, subsequent events, England re-asserts her sovereignty, H.M.S. Tyne and Clio re-hoist her flag, 238-240 -- shores, violent winds, tides, remarkable currents, 241-243 -- storms, 244 -- seasons, temperature, 245 -- harbours, 246 -- country, 247 -- peat, animals, 248 -- wild cattle, horses, foxes, 249-252 -- changes and transport of animals, 253 -- rabbits, whales, 254 -- fish, 255 -- birds, brushwood, fuel, grass, 256 -- soil, potash, 257 -- increase of animals, 258 -- vegetable productions, trees, 259 -- plants, balsam, 260 -- rushes, improvements, colonizing, 261 -- suggestions, 263 -- cattle, pilotage, 264, 265 -- ports, wool, 266 -- Vernet’s establishment, 266-269 -- events there, 270 -- ruined settlement, 271 -- lights, 276, 277 -- fossil bones, 277, 278 -- wild-cattle hunts, 279-281 -- sad occurrences there, 327-335.

Famine, Port, 321, 322.

Feejee Islands (native name, Navahi), dangerous navigation, natives, cannibalism, 559 -- white men among them, ‘Charles,’ cautions, treachery, dealing with savages, 560, 561 -- canoes, trade, alligator, bones, winds, 462.

Fernandez, Juan, effects of great earthquake, Ulloa, volcanic appearance at the summit of Yungue (note) 418.

Fire, mountain forests on fire, give rise to reports of volcanoes, 203, 204.

First Narrow, tide, 321, 322.

Forastes, Padre, entices men to desert, 393 -- search for them, 394, 395.

Fossils in Port Belgrano, 107 -- in San Salvador Bay, 278 -- near Tilly Road, 304 -- curious, near Concepcion, 421-423 -- in Andes, 667.

Foxes of Falkland Isles, apparent varieties, 250 -- remarks, 251 -- changes produced by food, climate, 252 -- transport, 253, 254 -- fox called ‘culpen’ in Araucania (note) 450.

Friendly, or Tonga Islands, missionaries, opposition, Mariner’s account, 559.

Frio, Cape, 67, 70 -- currents, 71, 72.

Fuegians, account of those brought home, 1 -- cannibalism, fate of old women, feelings on seeing strange sights, 2 -- ages, reasons for being brought to England, 4, 5, 6 -- vaccinated, 7 -- ‘Boat-Memory,’ catches small-pox, 8 -- death, 9 -- character, plan for educating others, 10 -- journey to London, anecdote, Walthamstow, 11 -- kind treatment, improvement, at St. James’s, 12, 13 -- private arrangements for their return, changed by Beagle’s re-commission, 13, 14 -- at Plymouth, 15 -- presents, 16 -- ‘Fuegia,’ at Botafogo Bay with English family, 80 -- natives seen near Cape Peñas, remarks of those on board, pleasure at being near home, 119 -- meeting with large and fine men, 120 -- remarks, paint, laughed at by ‘York,’ and ‘Jemmy,’ anecdotes, 121 -- ‘York-Minster’s’ duplicity; he, Jemmy, and Fuegia leave Beagle for the shore, 127, 128 -- meet natives, remarks, 203 -- friends, Jemmy learns his father’s death, conduct, language, 204 -- ‘York’s’ jealousy of Fuegia, Jemmy’s stories, 205 -- Oens (or Coin) men, 205, 206 -- natives, scenery, 207 -- arrival at Woollya, precautions, natives come in numbers, 208 -- meeting between Jemmy and his family, 209 -- his mortification, 210 -- ‘doctor,’ 211 -- Jemmy, York, and Fuegia established in wigwams, anecdotes, 213, 214 -- change on boat’s return, Jemmy plundered, 221 -- sorrowful remarks on his savage brethren, boats leave them, 222 -- re-visit them, better hopes, another interview with, 323 -- Jemmy and family, 324 -- York’s treachery, Jemmy’s story, 325 -- improvement, gratitude, parting, 326, 327.

Fuegian tribes, general sketch of, 130, 137-142 -- features, 175 -- hair, diversity of appearance, form, colour, 176 -- paint, caution, 177 -- food, ‘doctor,’ wizard, 178 -- elders, superstitious ideas, 179-181 -- death, burial, 181 -- marriage, relationship, 182 -- cannibalism, war, 183 -- cooking, weapons, bird-catching, 184 -- food, drink, occupations, 185 -- swimming, women diving, illness, children, training, guanaco-hunting, 186 -- anecdotes, fire, pyrites, 187 -- language, 188 -- at Woollya, 207-210 -- astonishment at fire-arms, 211, 212 -- large wigwam, 215 -- numerous at Woollya on boat’s return, 220 -- troublesome conduct to Matthews and his companions, 221 -- presents on leaving them, 222 -- ‘Yapoos,’ 323 -- Oens-men, 325, 326 -- language, 358.

Funchal Roads, 46.

Galapagos, appearance, Chatham Island, haziness, surf, craters, current, 485 -- ripplings, shores, iguanas, 486 -- lava, terrapin, trees, Stephens Bay, rocks, birds, fish, 487 -- tortoises, current, water, 488 -- weather, turtle, shells, mangroves, 489 -- Charles Island, volcanoes, heights, settlement, 490, 491 -- animals, vegetables, craters, Albemarle Island, formation, 492, 493 -- wild scene, lava cliffs, 494 -- Tagus Cove, anchor in crater, 495 -- extraordinary appearance, 496 -- James’ Island, settlers, oil, 497 -- winds, weather, Chatham Island, anchorage, soil, 498 -- MacGowen shoal, Charles Island, salt, 499 -- salt in crater, woods, Albemarle Island and other islets, 500, 501 -- rains, moisture, 502 -- birds’ beaks, terrapin, 503, 504 -- migration, 505.

Gales, 3, 51, 83, 91, 98, 112, 123, 124, 125, 126, 225, 226, 243, 244, 281, 289, 297, 302, 303, 306, 563 -- at Keelings, 637.

Gallegos River, 353.

‘Gauchos,’ 276 -- dress, appearance, 278 -- at Port Louis, murder, settlers, 328-331.

George, St., Bay, tide, 304.

George, King, Sound, aspect of country, 624 -- settlement, local attraction, tides, 625 -- natives, ‘corobbery,’ 626 -- feast-day, dog, aborigines, 627 -- burial, fish, 628.

Glaciers, 215 -- tints, icebergs, fall of ice cliff, 216 -- effect on sea, danger of boats, beauty of scenery, 217.

Goree Road, 127.

Gorriti, ship refitting, 284 -- absurd reports in consequence, 292, 293.

Green Island, water, animals, 295.

Gregory Bay, natives near, 168-173.

Guaianeco Islands, wild potato, 200.

Guanacoes, very large near Good Success Bay, 122 -- Fuegians’ chase of, 186, 187 -- weight, 305 -- near New Bay, 306 -- near Santa Cruz, 338 -- numbers, 349 -- size, 350, 355.

Hamond, Mr. Robert N., joins Beagle, 115, 120, 127 -- in Beagle Channel, 215 -- returns to England, 284.

Harris, Mr. W. Snow, lightning conductors of his invention, 18.

Harris, Mr., pilots Beagle, 101 -- at Argentina, 102 -- schooners hired from him, goes as pilot in one, 110, 111 -- excellent conduct, 288 -- anecdote of, 311.

Hellyer, Mr., drowned, 272 -- burial, 273.

Herradura Cove, near Coquimbo.

Hobart Town, or Hobarton, 624.

Hog Island, 296.

Honden Island, 506.

Hope Harbour, Transport schooner wrecked there, 273.

Horcon Bay, 425.

Huafo, position, cove near, 365, 366 -- sheep, Indians, 377, 378.

Huampelen, Mount, or Huamblin, 366.

Huaytecas Islands, oysters, 375 -- volcanoes seen from them, Indian names, meanings, 376, 377.

Huemul, 144 (note).

Huilli-che, 379 -- religion, 380, 381 -- migration, 384, 388 -- superstitions, witchcraft, ‘bruxos,’ 388-390 -- ‘Juncos’ and ‘Rancos,’ tribes near Valdivia, features, dress, feelings, curious customs, traditions, Deluge, ‘Chem,’ ‘Minga,’ 400, 401.

Icebergs, notices of, probably taken for rocks in some instances, 118 -- ice-cliffs, 216, 217.

Iguanas, at Galapagos, 486 -- orange-coloured, 495, 496.

Inchemo Island, goats, 372.

Inez, Santa, Cape, 119.

Instructions, 22-42.

Ipun Island (Chonos), 367, 375.

Islands of, Bay, easy of access, Whale rock, 564, 565.

Islay, white powder, 482.

Jackson, Port, 621.

Jago, St., Island of, current near north point, 51.

Jaguars, 97.

Janeiro, Rio de, 72, 73 -- observations, 74 -- difference in meridian distances, 75 -- Beagle’s measurement confirmed, 78, 80, 82, 83.

Jason Islands, tide-races near, 242.

Javali, or Hog Island, 296.

Johnson, Mr. C. R., joins Beagle, 20 -- in Adventure at Falklands, 281.

Johnson Cove, French crew there, 268-275.

José, San, Port, cattle hunts, 307 -- massacre of Spaniards, 308 -- tides, desolation, wreck, 311 -- remarkable ripplings near, 312.

Julian, San, Port, bar, 319 -- search for water, 320 -- settlement, former scenes there, whaler, tides, 321 -- swell, 322.

Keeling Islands, birds’ flight, appearance of islets, Port Refuge, tide-guage, 629 -- soundings, reefs, discovery, 630, 631 -- inhabitants, slavery, trade, 632 -- curious crab, turtle chase, fish eating coral, 633 -- fishing-dog, coral formations, 634 -- animals, water, natives, christenings, observations, 635, 636 -- storms, 637.

Kelp, 243 -- indicates rocks, remarks, cautions, 246, 247.

King, Capt. P. P., 1 -- promotion, 8 -- letter, 23 -- ice, 216 -- notices of Chilóe, 381, 382 -- alerse, 390, 391, 393.

King, Mr. P. G., 12, 20, 21 -- in Liebre, 294 -- in Constitucion, 427 -- Elizabeth Bay, 494.

‘Kings, Three,’ islets, tide-races, 620, 621.

Kororareka Harbour, 565 -- village, 566 -- huts, 577 -- cooking, church, 578 -- estuary, 581.

Krusenstern, Admiral, chart of Low Islands, 506.

Leübu River, 446 -- encampment, 449, 456-460 -- error, 470, 471 -- Bay, 473.

Liebre, schooner, hired to assist survey, reasons, 110, 111 -- in River Negro, 286 -- discharged, 288 -- sketch of proceedings, 295-314.

Lightning, conductors, 18 -- effects on Thetis, St. Elmo’s fire, 80, 81 -- Heron corvette struck, 81 -- sets fire to bushes, 304 -- curious notices, 539 (note).

Lights on hills, singular, 276 -- conjectures as to cause, 277.

Lima, 484 -- inhabitants, 642.

Lizard, at New Zealand, 619, 620.

Look-out, Cape, 319.

Louis, Port, 261 -- settlement, 266, 267 -- destroyed, 268, 271 -- murders, occurrences, 327, 328 -- search for murderers, 329, 330 -- new settlement begun, Rivero taken, 331.

Low Islands, Dangerous Archipelago, or Paamuto Islands, 506, 507 -- missionary labour, natives, Chain Islanders, 518.

Low, Mr., 2, 129, 145 -- anecdote, 168 -- opinions, notices of Patagonian natives, boy on board, 169-174 -- takes Chonos boy on board Adeona, details of Chonos tribe, 189-197 -- potatoes, anecdote, 200 -- at Falkland Islands, 273, 274 -- cattle-shooting, 281 -- narrow escape, 328 -- engaged as pilot, 331 -- examines Chonos Archipelago, 363, 364, 367.

Low, Port, 374 -- fresh provisions, piraguas, wild potato, 375 -- view, Meli-moyu Mountain, 376.

Macacu River, fever, malaria, causes, 76, 77.

Madeira, 46.

Magdalen Channel, fine scenery, 359.

Magellan, Le, wrecked, 269 -- crew’s transport, 373 -- in Beagle, 281.

Malaspina Cove, lightning, 304.

Malays at Keeling Islands, 632, 637.

Maldonado, pampero, 88 -- village, 93, 282, 284, 285 -- absurd reports, 293.

Man, origin and migration of, 639-657.

Mar-chiquito, salt lagoon, no opening to the sea, 97 -- country near, hills, their usual direction, as well as that of rivers and inlets between Plata and Cape Horn, 98 -- immense herd of cattle, 99.

Maria, a Patagonian woman, 145, 146 -- met again, 322.

Maria, Santa, Island of, upheaval, 412, 413 -- beds of dead shell-fish, 414 -- depression of land, 420 -- appearance, 436.

Martin, St., cove, cliffs, weather, 124.

Martha, Santa, gales, 83 -- shores, 84.

Massey’s lead, 55, 64.

Matavai Bay (see Otaheite).

Matthews, Richard, goes as missionary to Tierra del Fuego, 15, 16 -- first meets savages, 122 -- accompanies Fuegians from Beagle, 127 -- anecdote, 179 -- steadiness, 205 -- arrival at Woollȳa, 207-210 -- established and left in wigwam, 212, 213 -- anxiety for, safety, 220 -- story, danger, 221 -- re-embarks, 223 -- decides to remain with his brother at New Zealand, 605.

Maule River, effects of great earthquake there, 417 -- surf, village, bar, 424 -- advantages, 425.

May Harbour, cypress trees, otter, 375.

Medanos Point, banks near, 97.

Melo Port, 298.

Mellersh, Mr., 19 -- examines Hood Island, 486 -- Elizabeth Bay, 494-496.

Mendoza, river near, 286, 287.

Missionaries (Spanish), 373 -- (Otaheitan) efforts of in Low Islands, 518 -- (English) at Otaheite, 510 -- anecdotes, 514-517, 523, 524, 542, 544, 545 -- influence, 550 -- on Navigators and Friendly Islands, 559 -- at New Zealand, 567-575 -- difficulties of first mission there, 579 -- influence, 583-588 -- distinctions, 601, 602 -- proper spirit, 604, 605 -- obstacles at New Zealand, 611, 612 -- effects of exertions, 613, 614 -- embarrassments, 615 -- purchase of lands, 616-618.

Mocha Island, survey, earthquake, 402 -- waves, 414 -- incidents, 415 -- survey, rocks, Indians, 419.

Montes Tres, Cape, 369.

Murray, Mr. Matthew, 4, 5, 11.

Murray Narrow, passed by boats, 215-220.

Musters, Mr. Charles, 20 -- death of, 76.

Narborough Island, 365, 366 -- excellent port, strawberries, produce, 374 -- structure, tides, 375.

Navigators Islands, murders, success of missionaries, 559.

Negro River, 286, 287, 288 -- ‘freshes,’ banks, produce, floods, plough, 298 -- survey, bar, 302, 303 -- massacre of Spaniards, 308 -- Paz and Liebre detained there, 311 -- floods, mouth and bar examined, 312 -- wild fowl, 313.

New Bay, 305 -- bad weather, soil, 306 -- settlement, 308, 309.

Noir Island, wigwams, 365.

Noronha, de Fernando, 58 -- surf, citadel, population, scenery, precautions, 59.

Nott, Mr., senior missionary at Otaheite, translation of Bible, 517.

Obstruction Sound, 198 -- large canoes and wigwams deserted, swan-traps, deer, 199.

Oens, or Coin men, inroads, 205, 206 -- at Woollȳa, 325, 326.

Organ Mountains, 80, 82.

Osorno, Mount, in eruption, 378 -- height, form, 379.

Ostriches near river Santa Cruz, 338 -- swimming, 343.

Otaheite, or Tahiti, view, 508 -- scenery, Matavai Bay, canoes, natives, 509 -- traffic, dress, Point Venus, 510 -- chiefs, native houses, 511, 512 -- curiosity, fair, theft, singing, 513 -- taboo-marks, tombs, ‘aito,’ sugar-mill, 514 -- Papiete, cottages, 515 -- natives, shells, Papawa, 516 -- Otaheitan Bible, weather, 517 -- old ‘Ua,’ diseases, 520, 521 -- industry, anecdotes, curious relics, 522 -- church, congregations, 523 -- recreations, children, ‘Hitote,’ 524 -- Queen Pomare, audience, 524, 525 -- customs, 527 -- meeting with queen and chiefs, 527-542 -- pilotage among coral reefs, 542 -- school-house, service, ‘Hitote,’ extempore prayer, 543 -- songs, school, natives teaching each other, children, 545 -- discussion, intelligence of natives, communication of news, ‘Mare’s’ letter, 546 -- ‘Paofai’s’ letter, children of early missionaries, classes of natives, 547 -- proportions, attire, moral conduct, 548, 549 -- prohibition of spirits, harsh usage of infirm, anecdotes, 551 -- domestic manners, 552 -- snuff, provisions, seizure of the Newton, 554 -- Pearl fishing, steering, 555 -- Queen’s letter, natives pay her debts, taking leave, 557.

Oven, the, singular spot described, water, 304.

Paamutos (see Low Islands).

Packsaddle Bay, 224.

Paihia, missionary settlement in New Zealand, 566.

Pampas, 85 -- absence of trees, 93 -- droughts, herds of cattle, fertility, 94 -- on eastern coast, 97.

Pampero, in River Plata, 85-89.

Papiete (see Otaheite).

Papudo, 426.

Patagonians, general sketch of 129-137 -- details, physiognomy, friendliness, size, wanderings, 145 -- clothing, 146 -- arms, ornaments, 147-149 -- food, hunting, dogs, 150, 151 -- huts, sleeping-places, 152 -- marriages, domestic state, 153 -- children, cradles, 154 -- health, sickness, 155 -- funeral ceremonies, 156-160 -- warfare, horsemanship, racing, cards, 160 -- religious ideas, 161 -- worship, 162 -- witchcraft, 163 -- sacred tree, government, caciques, 164-166 -- warfare, horses, 166, 167 -- moral restraints, 167 -- anecdotes, traffic, 168 -- San Leon, partiality for white men, subdivisions, 169 -- boy-chief, ‘Capitan Chups,’ behaviour, 170 -- ‘Chico,’ Fuegians, trade with them in slaves, 171 -- counting, time, language, respect to age, cookery, 172 -- women, gratitude of boy, 173 -- emigrations, 174 -- in Gregory Bay, 322.

Patch Cove, 372, 373.

Paul, St., Rocks, or Peñado de San Pedro, examined, multitudes of birds, sharks, 56 -- current, 57.

Paz, schooner, reasons for hiring to extend survey, 109, 110 -- refit, 111, 112 -- off River Negro, 286 -- discharged, 288 -- sketch of proceedings, 295-314.

Peat at Falklands, 248, 256.

Pembroke, Cape (Falklands), 226.

Peñas, Gulf of, wild potato, ‘pangue,’ 200.

Penco, 420 -- castle, 421 -- coal, 423.

Peru, coast of, survey, 483.

Pichidanque, 426.

Plata River, entrance, width, depth, shoals, currents, pamperoes, 85-88 -- effects on river, 89 -- level of river and ocean, 91 -- fluctuations, Yngles Bank, 92 -- tides, want of trees, 93, 94 -- observations on, 115.

Pococke, Cape, 565.

Pomare, New Zealand, 581.

Pomare’s tomb, at Otaheite, 514.

Pomare Vahine, Queen of Otaheite, 516 -- arrival at Papiete, dress, 524 -- attendants, audience, reflections, 525, 526 -- consort, meeting, chapel, 527 -- Queen’s appearance, chiefs, 528 -- conduct, interpreter, 529 -- affair of the Truro, discussion, 530 -- Paamuto piracy, 531 -- generosity of natives, 532 -- arrangements, murderers, 533 -- missionaries, decree against enlisting for foreigners, 535 -- ‘Mare’ judge, appeal, case of Venilia, misconduct of her captain, letter from Otaheitans to British Government, 536, 537 -- smuggling, questions, chiefs pleased, meeting ends, 541 -- good feeling, 542 -- Queen visits Beagle, fireworks, songs, 544 -- conduct, 545, 546 -- letter, attendants, taking leave, 556, 557.

Ponsonby Sound, boats there, natives, curious volcanic effects, 223.

Praya Port, anchor there, 51 -- beauty of country in interior, 52 -- fruit, population, 53.

Puma, 107 -- mode of killing colts, 313 -- large one shot, party followed by one, 357.

Quiriquina Island, 406, 407, 409, 411.

Rafts, easily constructed, 647 -- now used, 648.

Ramirez, Diego, islands, 124.

Rasa Point, stream of tide, 297.

Refuge Port, Spanish chart, 373.

Return to England, 638, 639.

Roberts, Mr., engaged as Pilot for Liebre schooner, 110 -- anecdote, 117 -- satisfactory conduct, parted from, 288.

Roussin, Baron, difference in measurement of meridian distance from Bahia to Rio, 75 -- Beagle’s measurement confirmed, 78, 79.

Rowlett Island, wild potatoes, 374.

Rowlett, Mr., 19, 20 -- remarks on country near Port Praya, 52, 53 -- death of, 360.

Sanborombon Bay, 91 -- sounded, 292.

Santos, 84.

Savage, not the primitive state of man, 650.

Scotchwell Harbour, (Ipun), 223, 374.

Sebastian, San, Bay, bank, 322, 323.

Shingle Point, 215.

Ship Island, tide-stream, 305.

Simon, Jean, cattle-hunt, 279, 280 -- murdered by ‘gauchos’ at Port Louis, 328.

Simon’s Bay, 638.

Skyring Mount, 277.

Snake, H.M.S., sailing, build, remarks on ships, 289-292.

Socorro, Nuestra Señora del, island, 364-366.

Sounding, anecdote, 226 -- depths, 674, 676.

South Cape, Indian tomb, 305.

Spencer Cape, 122, 123.

Starve Island, 289.

Staten Land, wigwams, 365.

Stebbing, Mr. George James, engaged to attend to instruments, 19.

Stewart Island, 218.

Stewart, Mr., Puma-shooting, 357 -- in boats at Chilóe, 364 -- in Constitucion, 427.

Stokes, Mr. John Lort, 21 -- takes command of Paz schooner, 110 -- and of Liebre, 283 -- survey, 286 -- returns to Beagle, 288 -- account of proceedings in Paz, 295-302 -- survey of River Negro, 302 -- at Port Desire, 303 -- in Chupat, 306 -- surveying, 307 -- anecdote, 310 -- occupations, 315 -- remarks on Bellaco rocks, 318 -- at Port San Julian, 319 -- ascends River Santa Cruz, 337 -- explores and surveys part of Chonos Archipelago in whale-boat, 367, 374, 375 -- at Galapagos, 493 -- notices of terrapin, 503, 504 -- of Otaheitans, 551, 552 -- of New Zealanders, 586.

Success, Good, Bay, natives, 120 -- fish, 225.

Sulivan, Lieut. B. James, appointed to Beagle, 14, 288, 336 -- goes with boats to survey Chilóe, 364-366 -- returns to Beagle at San Carlos, 378 -- notices of Indians, 385, 386, 387 -- takes command of ‘Constitucion,’ 427 -- at Callao, 482 -- goes with boat to examine Galapagos, 486, 497.

Swan Islands, meeting of tides, 242.

Sydney, light-house, town, 621 -- drought, aqueduct, position, 622 -- disadvantages, money-making, 623.

Tahiti (see Otaheite).

Tairo Island, discovered, 508.

Talcahuano, 402 -- great earthquake, rise of sea, effects, 406, 407 -- dogs, shipping, 408 -- anecdotes, motion of sea, 409 -- sub-marine explosions, fish killed, 410 -- height of wave, contrasts, 411 -- Araucanian boys, 478.

Taytao, or Taytaohaohuon Cape, rocks, 372.

Teneriffe, view of Peak, 47 -- measurements from thence, quarantine, 48.

Thetis frigate, account of her loss, 66-70 -- causes, 70, 71.

Tide in Plata, 89, 93 -- near Point Rubia, 116 -- near Cape San Diego, 120 -- in S.W. arm of Beagle Channel, 219 -- stream of tide near Falklands, 226 -- strength, direction, times, height, 241, 242 -- off Point Rasa, 297 -- rise in St. George Bay, 304 -- off Ship Island, and Cape Dos Bahias, race near New Bay, 305 -- Valdes Creek, 309 -- terrific ‘races’ there, 310 -- ripplings and races near Port San José, 311, 312 -- in First Narrow, 321 -- in Santa Cruz, 337, 339 -- velocity of river, 340, 344, 351 -- at Ipun, May Harbour, 375 -- near Chilóe, 387, 388 -- off ‘Three Kings,’ direction, temperature, 620.

Tolten River, Indians, coast near, bar, 402.

Toriano, an Araucanian cacique, death of, 106.

Tosca, 99, 100.

Topocalma shoal, 425.

Trinidad, Gulf of, natives, a fine race, feathers, paint, 197 -- plank canoes with oars, arms, 198.

Tubul River, 414.

Tucu-tucu, the, 313.

Tuyu, mud-bank, 292.

Unicorn schooner, 273 -- considerations, purchased, named Adventure, (see Adventure).

Union Bay, 286, 287.

Usborne, Mr. Alexander Burns, 20 -- goes in ‘Constitucion’ to assist Mr. Stokes, 283 -- returns to Beagle, 288, 314, 315 -- goes away in boats, 364 -- at San Carlos, 378 -- takes command of Carmen schooner to Leübu river, meets Blonde, 469 -- bad weather, adventures, 474 -- escape, skill, 475 -- takes command of another vessel called ‘Constitucion,’ plan of expedition, 483 -- receives kind assistance, 484 -- return to England, having completed his survey, 638, 639.

Valdes Creek, entrance, 98 -- tides, shifting bar, dangers, 309, 310.

Valdivia, port, forts, rivers, ‘Yntendente,’ secretary, 397 -- town, aborigines, 398-401 -- convicts, 401 -- great earthquake, motion, 415 -- shocks, 416.

Vallenar Road, 366, 369.

Ventana Mount, mines, 105 -- height, 109, 295.

Verde, Cape, Islands, observations on anchoring, gales, 51, 52 -- exports, 53 -- ‘orchilla’ weed, vegetables, sickly season, 54 -- dust, 55.

Vernet, Louis, appointed ‘comandante’ at Falklands, proceedings, 238, 239, 255 -- settlement, 266 -- delusion, 267 -- ruined 268.

Video, Monte, mutinous negroes, 95.

Villagran, battle, Ercilla, 435, 436.

Villarica mountain, height, 481.

Villarino, 314.

Virgins, Cape, 222, 357.

Waimate, 598 -- situation, appearance, corn, gardens, farm, 601 -- cattle, poultry, houses, 602 -- barn, water-wheel, 604 -- mill, Shunghi’s grave, English oaks, missionary families, 604 -- spirit, 606 -- valley, Kauri pine, woods, 606.

Water, white, extraordinary space of sea, supposed cause, 118.

Weddell Bluff, 340.

Whale-boat Sound, 218.

Wickham, Lieut. John Clement, 14, 21 -- takes command of Paz and Liebre, 111, 112, 116, 117 -- examines Indian graves, 168 -- cattle-hunt, 280-282 -- arrives to take command of Adventure at Gorriti, 284 -- proceedings in Liebre, 295 -- remarks on coast near Point Rasa, 297 -- Rio Negro, 298 -- Del Carmen, 299 -- on Indians and Spanish settlers, 300, 301 -- in Blanco Bay, River Negro, 302 -- at Port Desire, 303 -- discovers Chupat River, 306, 307 -- in great danger, 310 -- plans, 322 -- meets Mr. Low, engages him as pilot, at Port Louis, 331 -- sails again, 332 -- in Port Famine, 358, 360 -- at Valparaiso, Santiago, 361 -- returns to Beagle, 362 -- arrives in England, 638.

Wigram, Rev. Joseph, kindness to Fuegians, 10, 11.

William, Port, (Falklands) 227 -- tides, 242 -- suggestions for a settlement, advantages, 261, 262 -- accessibility, exports, 263.

Whylootacke, or Wailutaki, 557.

Williams, Corporal, drowned, 282, 302.

Wilson, Rev. William, admits Fuegians into infant school at Walthamstow, 10 -- kindness, 11, 12 -- letter, 14 -- selects missionary to go out with them, 15, 16.

Wilson, Belford Hinton, effective assistance, 484.

Windhond Bay, 225.

Wolf near Colorado River, 296.

Wollaston Island, 225.

Wood Mount, 319.

Woollȳa, pleasant situation, natives, arrangements, 208, 209 -- wigwams and gardens made, natives assist, 210 -- fair prospects, curiosity of natives, 211, 212 -- boats depart, 214 -- re-visited, 220 -- events during absence, 221 -- missionary removed, difficulties, 222 -- re-visited, pleasing scene, occurrences, 224 -- events there, 323-327.

Zealand, New, 564 -- Kororareka, Tipuna, 565 -- natives’ flag, 566 -- Paihia, natives, 568 -- decrease of population, 569 -- colour, salutation, manner, war-canoes, 571 -- prospects of country, former savages of Britain, 572, 573 -- bones, tree, fern, 574 -- church, 575 -- British Resident’s house, vines, Kororareka, 576 -- huts, 577 -- cooking, church, burying-places, 579 -- anecdotes, Waripoaka, island, 580 -- Cawa-Cawa, Pomare, estuary, 581 -- pleasing scenes, traffic, 582 -- flax, meeting, chiefs, 583 -- curious dispute, rats, game, 584 -- precise division of territory, purchase of land, 585, 586 -- spirits, ‘Noah,’ native wine, church, 586, 587 -- oxen, sick, preserving food from damp, nets, burial, 588 -- Christmas, Divine service, remarks, singing, 589 -- state of the place, measures, 590 -- causes of disturbance, 591, 592 -- suggestions, influence of ships of war, 593 -- Polynesian interest, resources in Pacific, 594, 597 -- excursion to Waimate, Waitangi Creek, running guides, activity, country, 599 -- woods, native village, agriculture, flax, manufacture, 599 -- chapel, fine-looking native, country easy of access, 600 -- curious bird, 601 -- Waimate, 601-606 -- valley, horses, bridge, woods, Keri-keri waterfall, beautiful scene, 606 -- English children, natives fond of them, 607 -- Waripoaka visits Beagle, ‘La Favorite,’ Rangateedas, 608 -- political condition, relics, 609, 610 -- departure from, 611 -- remarks, 612, 613 -- settlements, trade, 614, 615 -- discontent of settlers, 616 -- pine-forests, 618 -- North cape, singular superstition, great lizards, 619, 620.

ADDENDA.

In the eighth chapter of this volume, I have omitted to mention that there are meetings held among the Patagonians which might be termed ‘courts of justice!’

One such meeting was described to me by an eye-witness:--‘Capitan Chico’ presided at it, on horseback: he was the only person mounted. The older men of the tribe sat in a ring, upon the ground, as judges (or rather as a council, or as a jury). Within the circle were four prisoners, and twelve witnesses. The trial lasted a whole day: but my informant did not see or hear the result.

The same individual told me that the Patagonians often played at a game like hockey.

These things, among others, call to mind Molina’s account of the Araucanians, which some think much exaggerated. Disorganised, dispirited, and exceedingly diminished in numbers, the Araucanians, as we now see them, are scarcely to be compared to those of Ercilla’s poem, who are also described by many authors besides Molina.

END OF VOL. II.

LONDON:

Printed by J. L. COX and SONS, 75, Great Queen Street, Lincoln’s-Inn Fields.

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within the text and consultation of external sources.

Some hyphens in words have been silently removed, some added, when a predominant preference was found in the original book.

Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text, and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.

Pg vii: ‘Produce--Orchilla’ replaced by ‘Produce--Archilla’. Pg ix: ‘Fuegians--’ replaced by ‘Features--’. Pg 20: ‘at Valparasio’ replaced by ‘at Valparaiso’. Pg 51: ‘so familar to’ replaced by ‘so familiar to’. Footnote [8] in Chapter V has two anchors on page 107. Pg 223: ‘were obsevred,’ replaced by ‘were observed,’. Pg 238: ‘great obstables’ replaced by ‘great obstacles’. Pg 239, Footnote [15]: ‘page 236’ replaced by ‘page 235’. Pg 241: ‘First Appearance--’ replaced by ‘First Appearance of Falklands--’ (to match TOC entry for CHAPTER XII). Pg 241: ‘times of syzigial’ replaced by ‘times of syzygial’. Pg 325: ‘in Febuary 1833’ replaced by ‘in February 1833’. Pg 401: ‘means a a feast’ replaced by ‘means a feast’. Pg 430: ‘man was Vogelberg’ replaced by ‘man was Vogelborg’. Pg 430: ‘by Vogelberg and’ replaced by ‘by Vogelborg and’. Pg 470: ‘Vogelberg, who’ replaced by ‘Vogelborg, who’. Pg 493: ‘the plaintain’ replaced by ‘the plantain’. Pg 513, Footnote [11]: ‘wa fined eight’ replaced by ‘was fined eight’. Pg 590: ‘to show what’ replaced by ‘To show what’. Pg 601: ‘superintendant of the’ replaced by ‘superintendent of the’. Pg 643: ‘5/8 negro, 4/8 white.’ replaced by ‘5/8 negro, 3/8 white’. Index: Pg 689: (Huaytecas) ‘376, 376.’ replaced by ‘376, 377.’. Pg 689: (Krusenstern) Entry moved to correct place. Pg 693: (Usborne) ‘plan of expedidition’ replaced by ‘plan of expedition’. Pg 694: (Zealand) ‘polititical condition’ replaced by ‘political condition’.

Spotted a typo or a problem in this chapter? Tell us