Twenty years around the world (part 4 of 4)

Twenty years around the world (part 4 of 4)

A chapel is now found upon the spot, where resides a venerable priest, with his colleagues. A new and large church is to be erected upon the site of the ancient temple. During the war, the French, in cutting entrenchments, made discoveries of some valuable relics of marble and sculpture, which are now visible. Under the Tartar dynasty the old city was deserted, and went to decay.

On my way to Balaklava I made a detour to look at the Kamisch camp grounds, and to visit one of the wildest and most romantically situated monasteries to be found. It is called St. George, and with its church, convent, outbuildings, and hanging fruit gardens, on the south side of the craggy cliffs, is well calculated to attract attention, and was known and respected by the army of invasion.

Balaklava is now a miserable village, but when its little basin was occupied by the English and French vessels it must have produced a lively effect. The streets and roads approaching it are well paved as left by the troops. The track of the railroad is still discernible. The black coal depositories show where the iron horse was stalled. The heaps of broken bottles show the consumption of the troops, and reminded me of the Ranchos on the Isthmus of Panama after the passage of an army of gold diggers. The high rocks at the narrow entrance bear the white letters painted by the English--“Powell Point,” “Castle Bay,” “Cossack Point,” &c.

We have had blustering winds and an unusually boisterous sea, so say the residents, giving an opportunity of judging of the fierce waves of the Black Sea along the iron bound coast, which shipwrecked so many of the vessels of the combined squadron.

I here left my horses and droski, and took the post, the usual mode of quick travel in Russia. I had taken out a Padorozna from the authorities for horses from Balaklava to Alushta and then to this place, in order to take the steamer for Theodosie and Kertch, upon the straits of Azof. In this manner I can visit the whole length of the south coast of the Crimea of any interest. The distance to the place named is one hundred and fifty-two wersts, of three-fourths of a mile each, for which one pays six kopecks per werst; the greasing of the wheels at each post station is twelve kopecks, and a gratuity to the driver in addition. Your vehicle is changed at every station. It is a rude wagon, without springs, built in the form of a scow boat cut off at both ends, and about eight feet long, with low wheels. The seat is a net of ropes from the hind stakes, with quantities of hay or straw. The same for the driver in front. Two bony nags are attached, and you are now at his mercy. The horses are kept on the run, the extreme distances in Russia making it necessary, but woe to the traveller who is not accustomed to it. It is wild and furious travelling.

The post houses are furnished by the crown, and are known by the high, square, box-like posts of white and black colors, with distances marked thereon; for instance, on the main line, to St. Petersburgh two thousand two hundred wersts, and in like manner on the side roads. A sitting room is furnished with a sofa, chair, and table, and in case of bad weather, or no inn, one is under shelter, and sometimes something may be found to eat.

The Russian nobility travel in their own carriages, and carry their tea machines for preparing tea, heavy fur cloaks for sleeping, &c. The best and largest hotel in Odessa, for example, gives you a plainly furnished room, with an ofen for heating purposes, if required, and a bed without linen, for from six to ten francs, say from one dollar and twenty cents to two dollars, per day. Bed covering, towels, and lights are charged extra. You take your meals in your own room, or at the restaurant, for which you pay à la carte, at the time, or it is put in your bill. You will thus perceive a wide difference from our American plan.

At my first station from Balaklava, I found the Tartar village of Bidar, quite deserted during the war. The occupants of this beautiful valley, filled with pear, apricot, and other trees, had left for Constantinople, and their return is not permitted. In the hands of an industrious people, it would be very valuable.

My next relay crossed the mountain pass, where the sea, valleys, deep precipices, and vineyards presented themselves instantly on the passage of a tunnel, very like a mountain road from Genoa to Spezzia, celebrated for its beauty.

The zigzag road, with short curves, was driven over more rapidly than within my experience, the horses on full trot, or galloping down the mountain. I could hold my seat with difficulty, but said nothing. I timed my watch at the foot of the mountain, and found we had made fifteen wersts in three-quarters of an hour. The Russian youth turned towards me for a look of approbation, pocketed his Navodki, and was soon off for Alupka, the palace of prince Woranzow, the most magnificent private affair; perhaps, in Europe. The grounds, gardens, and vineyards occupy miles, beautifully situated on the Black Sea, sheltered from the cold by a southern exposure. The palace, or castle, is of Gothic architecture, and was finished in 1852 by an English architect. It has been building many years, and is of Crimean granite. Six noble lions, of Carrara marble, in Canova style, standing, crouching, and sleeping, guard the staircase on the water side. Pavilions, a Greek church, a mosque, flowers, fruit trees, and miles of drives, comprise the beauties. Such an outlay as three millions of roubles in this remote country, can only be expected of a Russian noble with two hundred thousand serfs, or more, besides immense wealth differently invested. He lived to accomplish this work, and died, leaving an only son, who resides in Paris.

My next point was Orianda, the new palace and grounds of the ex-empress of Russia, who has never seen it, but is expected this summer. The palace cost only half a million of roubles, or four hundred thousand dollars. It is neat, substantial, well arranged, and is furnished richly, but in good taste. Several of the rooms and fountains are after the Pompeian style.

This is the resort of Russian nobility for the autumn months, during the grape season. Many have estates and splendid residences, but are seldom here. I have chosen the best season for visiting this region.

The little village from which I write is in the midst of lovely gardens, the trees now in full bloom. The grape vines are putting forth their leaves. The mountain side is dotted with occasional Tartar villages of rude cottages, the peaks in the distance contrasting with the green sea, whose waves are breaking upon the gravelly beach, with no sign of shells. The water is saltish, without smell from sea weed.

The only decent hotel I have yet found in the Crimea, is the little one here upon the seaside, kept by a Frenchman and his English wife, both of whom were servants in a Russian noble family. It is a luxury, indeed, with its neatness and comfort; and meals are served up in one’s one room, according to European taste. I am the only guest at present. The lulling sound of the waves induces repose, which I much needed, and I am quite unwilling to leave the spot.

The only person in the town who speaks English, except the landlady, is her little boy, who converses also in French with his father, and Russian besides. I find the German more useful than the French for the traveller in this region who does not know Turkish or Russian, as there are several colonies of Germans.

This country being new and sparsely settled, money has less value, and the luxuries of life are difficult to obtain without great expenditure, which will prevent visitors or permanent residents from coming here.

The valleys abound with pasturage, and cattle may be raised in quantities; but the Tartar race is lethargic, and works only when necessity compels. They tell me fresh butter cannot be had at even a rouble, or eighty cents, per pound. Their wants are few, and the pipe is their only solace.

This being the fast of forty days my Fourgon driver, to whom I offered refreshments, refused, but watched the waning sun, procured a bottle of boza, a sort of acid drink made from flour, and bought a wheaten cake, and the moment the last rays disappeared the poor fellow swallowed his morsel, and drained his draught with a good relish. If the land could be relieved from this race by sending them to Turkey, and their places occupied by German colonists, it might be made a flourishing country.

I attended yesterday a village interment. The corpse of the defunct was in an uncovered coffin, draped with crimson plush, and supported by bearers by means of cords two or three feet from the ground. After the ceremonies in the pretty little Russian chapel on the top of a hill, with its stained glass windows, tiny turrets and spire, surrounded by flowers and plants, the body of the man, preceded by the noble-looking Greek priests in full robes, with long flowing hair and beard, crucifix in hand, chanting a funeral hymn, and friends carrying burning candles, was borne to the neat cemetery, where further ceremonies were performed. When the crimson lid, with the white figures of the cross upon it, was nailed on and lowered in the grave, the despair of the women, as they were called upon to throw stones and earth upon it, was frightful, and brought to mind that command of scripture, “Weep with those that weep.” Home, with near, and dear, and departed friends, came suddenly in the memory.

The service over, a large dish of rice, covered with raisins and sugar, is passed to the priest, who applies the spoon, and it then goes the rounds, the boys and idlers coming in for the balance.

CXXXVII.

TIFLIS, CAPITAL OF GEORGIA, June 6, 1858.

From Yalta, I embarked for Theodosie and Kertch, upon the Straits of Azoff. The former place is designated as the terminus of the railroad from Moscow, as its harbor never freezes.

Kertch was partly burned by the allies during the war. Its population is some fifteen thousand. It has a good harbor for vessels bound either for ports in the Black Sea, or going up the Sea of Azoff for cargoes of grain. There were some fifty sail of all kinds at anchor.

In company with the French and English consuls I rode some fifteen miles to the Sea of Azoff, visiting also some extensive Tumuli, or mounds for cemeteries, in which have been found very interesting relics, supposed to be from the reign of king Mithridates, 132 years before Christ. They are quite similar to those I once found in Upsal, in Sweden. The masonry is in a perfect state of preservation. The prairie country extends for miles about the city, and hares are found in great abundance. Our horses and dogs gave them a fine chase.

I took a steamer at Kertch for the Asiatic side of the Black Sea, passing along the Circassian coast with its towering snow-capped mountains. The small ports or roadsteads are occupied by the Russian military, which cannot get a foothold in the interior.

Heavy weather prevented our arrival at Soukum Kale until the second day. It is a bad roadstead, but beautifully situated amid the greenest and most luxuriant vegetation, reminding me of the West Indies or the coast of Venezuela, by its prolific growth. The little colony being among roses and acacias in full bloom, the air is odoriferous with perfume. The inhabitants are, however, virtually imprisoned, the heights being occupied by barracks, and troops who cannot go beyond a certain limit.

The villages of the Abasiens are seen in the distance, and we would fain have taken horses for a ride thither, but were warned not to walk even, beyond a certain point, under the penalty of a ball from the enemy. Notwithstanding the chief of the tribe is friendly and under pay from the Russian government, and we saw him and his harem on board of a steamer put at his disposal, still his people are not reliable, and the Russians cannot penetrate the country, but are obliged to make a detour by Redout Kale, where we landed the following day.

It is bad, like all the other roadsteads along the coast, and frequently the semi-monthly steamers cannot land, and passengers are obliged to wait a month to embark. The breakers were rolling strongly, but we landed at the mouth of the little river Orion, at the miserable town, among such a rough, bandit-looking race as one seldom sees. The captain of the post was very civil, and invited my companion and myself, to dine and occupy part of his miserable quarters, until we could lay in a stock of provisions and supplies for voyage in the interior.

I had imagined and was prepared for a rough time in visiting these regions, but the reality far exceeded my expectations. A Russian officer, attached to the General’s staff of the Circassian army, accompanied me, and was provided with a Poderozna, or authority for horses and escort. He came directly from St. Petersburg, and found himself equally disappointed.

We were provided with saddle horses for ourselves and others for our luggage, and supplied with Cossack guides well armed. We made seventy-two wersts in this manner, passing through a lovely country, among trees of great growth and freshness, and woods in places filled with wild grape-vines. There are no general roads, and we travelled mostly by paths.

Our first night was passed under the roof of an old peasant, with his wife, and a little boy and girl in ragged clothes, as our companions. The one-roomed hut was thatched with straw, and had an opening in the side for the escape of the smoke from a fire built on the earth floor in the centre. A few eggs roasted in the cinders were all that could be procured, with the exception of a small kettle to boil our tea water in, and a few bundles of straw upon which to spread our blankets. We had forgotten candles in our list of supplies, and I was quite amused at the manner in which the deficiency was supplied. The woman had some yellow wax, and tore off a strip of her shawl to make the wick, upon which it was twisted.

When we arrived at the village of Marvan we procured post horses over natural roads, in the rudest vehicle in the world, upon seats made of hay, with ropes stretched across.

The country is diversified, consisting of valleys, prairies, and mountains. The mountain roads have been made by the Russian troops, who are found throughout the country, but are miserably made and dangerous. Many small and rapid streams are crossed. Nature in her primeval state presents many beautiful views. The distant Circassian mountains covered with snow, and the plains, remind me of California and Oregon.

Agriculture is of the most primitive kind. Wooden ploughs drawn by eight yoke of oxen are used. Cattle and horses are seen in abundance, but the people have no idea of comfort or luxury. Their caps are of sheepskin, the curled woolly side out. They carry from twelve to sixteen bone or reed cartouche boxes sewed on, or attached to the breast of the dress, and with their long carabines on the back, and cutlasses at the side, are always prepared for an attack of the enemy. This has from long use become the national costume.

The villages more remote from the coast are almost entirely under ground. The huts have the front part raised to the height of half a story, and the roofs run back to a level with the ground, covered with sod and earth; and there they burrow, surrounded by a beautiful and fertile country, capable of producing everything, but still in a state of semi-barbarism.

We were five days making the distance. The stations where horses are changed are mostly miserable affairs--infinitely worse than in the north of Russia, and exceedingly filthy. There are some exceptions, where supplies can be procured. One who makes this journey is called upon to suffer privations and fatigues of all kinds, and any one but a Russian or an old traveller would be disheartened at the outset. This season of the year is the most favorable, and the voyage to this place is now accomplished.

This city is curious to visit in many particulars. It has a population of sixty thousand, composed of a great variety of races, Armenians, Persians, Georgians, Turks, Jews, Russian military, and some twelve hundred officers, who are not permitted to go out without their swords, as the whole country is in a state of war with the Circassians.

Prince Bariatanski is the Viceroy, and has supreme power. There are some three hundred thousand troops scattered over this whole territory, to defend the mountain passes from the attacks of Schamyl and the Circassians, and to keep open the communication with the North and the Caspian Sea.

The city is upon the banks of a rapid river or torrent, and is surrounded by high hills, which renders it now very hot. There is a strange compound of civilization and barbarism here. There is a handsome theatre, bazaars, the palace and garden of the Viceroy and of the former King, now occupied by his son, a fine botanical garden newly laid out, well built bridges and houses for officials, and a colony of Germans living neatly and comfortably, while beside them are the early inhabitants of the country, whose huts are scarcely above the surface, and who live among fleas and filth.

Droskies and other fine carriages and horses, extravagance in the dress of the females, and beautiful Georgian ladies of the upper classes, with their picturesque head-dresses, abound.

Russian gold and silver flows like water; a hundred millions of rubles are expended yearly to keep up the war, which has lasted now thirty years, and is still without much prospect of a close.

This former capital of the Georgian kings, which is some three hundred and fifty wersts in the interior, was abandoned to the Russians about the beginning of the present century; the people finding themselves no longer able to resist the attacks of the Persians, Turks, and Armenians, who ravaged the country and carried off the women and children as slaves.

The commandant of the city, who speaks Russian, German, and French, has shown me many civilities. The only consuls here are the French and Persian; to the former I am also indebted. The hotels are execrable. The French adventurers have succeeded well in the introduction of Paris fineries, as money has but little value; comparing favorably with California in its infancy.

All advise me to pass up through the Circassian mountains to the north, as the weather is now hot, and there is less danger and delay from avalanches, and the passes are less infested by bandits. I shall probably go in company with a Russian officer, and have an escort when necessary.

CXXXVIII.

PIATIGORSK, CIRCASSIA, June 12, 1858.

I must give you some details of the trip to this place, across the Circassian mountains, and over the fortified road dividing the territory of Schamyl; to the right coming up towards the Caspian Sea and the Circassians, and on the left bordering on the Black Sea.

We left the scorching city at five P.M., and were glad to escape the intense heat. We made two stations, thirty-four wersts, when horses were not forthcoming until early the next morning. The station was one of the most miserable on the route, and between filth and vermin we were glad to leave at four A.M.

My companion, a Georgian captain in the Russian service, and myself occupied a Tarantas, a wagon of the country, with a carriage body mounted on long poles, the servant in front.

At seven o’clock we discovered that the baggage had been cut away from the rear of the vehicle, entailing considerable loss to my companion. My own baggage was fortunately in front. Information was given to the officer in command at the next village to send Cossacks in pursuit of the offenders. The wheels of our vehicle showed signs of weakness, and the smith’s services were called to cut and renew the tires, much to his advantage, as those who travel in carriages are expected to pay.

Towards sunset of the second day we commenced the ascent of the mountains over a miserably rocky road, at a snail’s pace, with eight yoke of oxen, and arrived at a station where the night was passed. It was a lovely evening, pleasantly cool, and the snow-capped peaks of the mountains of El Brus and Casbeck, from fourteen thousand to sixteen thousand feet high, by the light of a full moon, were magnificent to gaze upon.

An early start, with relays of horses at each station, carried us over the zigzag winding roads, which are without parapet walls. The drivers are exceedingly expert in the management of their three horses abreast, coursing along the margin of yawning precipices, hundreds of feet in depth. The mountain torrents and the remains of avalanches did not retard our progress. The season, however, favored us, as travellers are sometimes detained for weeks.

The wild and savage appearance of the country, the rudely constructed roads, the primitive costume of the people, who are partly dressed in skins, and nearly all armed, the fortified passes, the galleries in the rock, the narrow defiles occupied by the Russian soldiery, to prevent the attacks of the Circassians, and the feeling that you are liable to be arrested and carried into captivity, or shot by them, kept up a different state of feeling than that caused by ordinary travel.

We passed several fortresses well provided with soldiers, arms, and ammunition, to protect the road. The men are employed in constructing or repairing the route, as the Russian soldier performs the most menial service, and is not exempt until after twenty-five years. The term is, however, reduced under the present emperor. His pay and supplies are a mere bagatelle, and he is a machine, obeying the will of his officer.

The road is now considered tolerably safe, with the exception of the stations where a ball may be sent through the unsuspecting traveller.

The Russian troops are gradually hemming in Schamyl on one side, and the Circassians on the other. Both are Mussulman races, but have little intercourse, as Schamyl is the leader of a fanatical people who repose all confidence in their chief. The pasturage and tillage grounds have been taken from them, and they are now more closely lodged in the fastnesses of the mountains, and with less means of life. The Circassians on the Black Sea can obtain contraband supplies from Turkey, via Trebizond, and can dispose of their children to advantage, the girls looking forward with pleasure to the sale and prospect of occupying an important position in the harems.

During the war of the allies, Schamyl made a descent when least expected, and carried off two Georgian princesses and their children. They suffered much from cold in the mountains, although well treated. The ransom demanded by the robber chief was his son, who was taken by the Russians when eight years old, and sent to St. Petersburg for his education, besides eight millions of roubles. They not knowing the value of money, ten ox-carts loaded with small coins were forwarded, with his unwilling son, now grown to manhood in civilized society, and the exchange was made, much to the satisfaction of distressed families and friends.

The Circassians are most dexterous horsemen, and fond of adventure among themselves. A man who has not shown acts of daring is little considered; while if he can bring down the enemy, or take him captive in order to obtain a ransom, he has done acts worthy of the consideration of the people. One year since, in the place from which I write, the little son of a physician was picked up by a mounted Circassian, and carried out of sight before the alarm was fully given. A ransom of a thousand roubles was demanded, but the government is opposed to the payment of tribute, and he is still among them.

We arrived the third night at Vlada Kaukas, prettily situated upon a rapid river, or mountain torrent, a pleasant town of Russian creation, the residence of the officials of the district, civil and military, containing the barracks, hospitals, &c. The houses are built of stone, wood, and unburnt bricks, many covered with iron roofs, painted green, as indeed are almost all the Russian churches, which produces a cheering effect after seeing nothing but straw roofs in the interior.

We could here renew our supplies, as it must be remembered nothing can be obtained to eat or drink on the road in these wild countries. The stations are furnished with a few chairs, or wooden sofas, to pass the night upon, and a Semivar, or tea machine for hot water, with which to prepare your own tea, can always be obtained. All other appliances for sleeping, and to support life, you must carry with you, or starve.

At the place named we were detained one day waiting for horses, as the commanding officer had ordered all the post horses for the use of Cossacks, who were in hot pursuit of the enemy, who had committed some depredations.

We were glad to have passed the seat of difficulty in good time. We were not allowed to travel at night, and the whole line upon the steppes, some two hundred wersts, was occupied, up to our arrival at this place, by Cossack sentinels at intervals of a few wersts, generally three together, mounted upon a platform erected upon four poles adjoining their cabins. Each is furnished with a ladder to ascend by, and a straw cover to protect the men from wind and rain. Mounds of earth are also often thrown up as observatories, and their horses are always saddled and bridled ready to pursue the enemy.

Huge stone crucifixes point out the spots where the unfortunate Cossack peasants, sent down for colonization and cultivation of the soil, have been killed.

Some of the Circassians have submitted to Russian rule, and occupy their villages unmolested. A few reside in the Russian towns, consequently they know all that is occurring, and act as spies when necessary. They are a fine-looking race of people, and their costume is picturesque. I have heard Russian officers who have known them personally say, that if they had their way they would not wage war against them, while others go for extermination.

Circassia is to Russia, what Algeria is to France--a military school, a means of patronage for officials, and a source for decorations and honors, at the expense of the empire in general.

On the main road towards Staverpool, at the little town of Gorgiesk, fairs are held twice a year for general supplies.

A detour of thirty-four wersts brought me to this place. Within a circuit of forty wersts are found hot and cold, sulphur, iron, salt and soda springs. I design visiting all of them, and will speak of their qualities in my next. This place derives its name, Piatigorsk, from five small picturesque mountains within sight. It is romantically situated, and may be made a lovely spot.

There are six sources of hot and cold sulphur water, and the government has expended large sums in erecting baths and laying out the grounds in imitation of the Germans; but the distances are so immense, the bad roads and want of accommodations so great, that the Russians prefer going to Germany, now they can have passports. There are some four hundred here, where two thousand might be accommodated with private lodgings. I am the only foreigner here. The military band plays morning and evening, and the little Russian boys and girls, profit in waltzing and dancing upon the gravelled walks under the shade trees, to the delight of mothers and governesses.

CXXXIX.

STAVERPOOL, NORTHERN CIRCASSIA, June 22, 1858.

In my last from Piatigorsk I stated my intention of visiting the other mineral sources. Of these Gelesnovodski furnishes hot iron water, and is one of the few in the world of the hot ferruginous kind. It is romantically situated some twenty wersts from the place above named. It is a village of Cossack peasants, who were whitewashing and brushing up their rude cabins, built of branches of trees trellised or woven together, with a mud coating on both sides, and a coat of white for appearance. The roofs are entirely of straw, and of the most primitive style. A few decent houses have been erected, and the government has built some ordinary baths, and the woods and grounds have some walks and drives cut through. I went out in company with the Director of the Baths at Piatigorsk, which was fortunate, as the season had fairly commenced and no hotels were open, but being introduced to a certain baroness just established in her own house, we had a very respectable dinner.

Some thirty wersts in another direction is the most remarkable soda fountain I have ever seen in any country, called Kissnovodski. Here the crown has expended considerable sums in the erection of bathing buildings of massive masonry. The promenades through the woods are in good order for visitors. The source is about ten feet in diameter and throws out four hundred gallons per minute, bubbling up like soda water or sparkling champagne, being highly charged with carbonic acid gas. It is slightly charged with iron, and is delicious either with or without wine. It is used at the close of the season for bathing and drinking, giving extraordinary strength to the muscles of the body. Such a spring in a civilized and settled country, where there were facilities to get to it, would be a mine of wealth. Salt springs are also found about midway in going out.

A Tartar village lies to the right on the way to the springs first named, and also a village of German colonists about midway, which I visited a few days since in company with a party of Russian officers and their wives. I learned from an old German that the government gave them the use of lands in common, with certain immunities. I also found here an old Scotchman who had nearly forgotten English, having come out with the first missionaries, of whom none now exist. Both these old people had friends in the United States, and you can well imagine their joy and surprise at seeing an American for the first time.

I have had occasion to pass nights in Cossack houses, when horses were wanting at the stations, or it was unsafe travelling after dark, and when the only room in the post station was occupied, and I found the contrast between the tidy, comfortable cottages of the German settlers, and the filthy dwellings and habits of the Cossacks, Tartars, and Kalmucks, most striking.

Their villages are generally from twenty to twenty-six wersts apart, and are about a mile square, with a mud wall or brush fence and embankment all round, and sentinels at the gates. The houses, barns, and sheds are thatched with straw, and sufficiently remote from each other to guard against fire. The streets or roads are one hundred feet in width, and many are planted with trees.

The plains are used for pasture and tillage, and at nightfall the oxen, sheep, goats, and hogs are driven in by the shepherds, when all the boys and girls of the village turn out to drive their respective animals into the fold. They cultivate the ground, and harvest their crops at great distances from the villages, and always go armed.

They are the pioneers of Russian civilization, accustomed to border warfare like our squatters with the Indians. The government sends down villages of them from the river Don, granting them certain privileges, for which they are obliged to keep the Circassians at bay and furnish certain numbers of guards or sentinels, who change about, and are ever ready to pursue the enemy. As fast as portions of Circassian territory are acquired, fortresses and troops advance, and the Cossacks follow up and settle upon the lands. It is a sort of semi-barbarous civilization.

For a distance of some two hundred wersts we have seen no wood of any consequence, the whole country consisting of immense steppes or plains. The small water courses furnish brush for making wicker fences and frames of houses. Artificial turf is made from the straw, hay, and deposit of the barnyards, dried in the sun, and cut in brick form in summer for winter fuel. The ox-carts and wagons are entirely of wood, not a nail being used in their construction. I have counted from fifty to eighty loaded carts at a time, and not a particle of iron could I discover. The wood must be brought long distances from the mountains. The timber for building at this place is brought some six hundred wersts, or four hundred and fifty miles, by land. This is one of the best countries in the world for railroads, and if occupied by Americans the enemy would be conquered by the locomotive.

I passed a couple of days with a Russian nobleman at his village, making a detour of some thirty wersts, on a side route upon the banks of a little river where was quite a forest. As the question of the emancipation of the serfs in Russia is now the absorbing topic, I availed myself of the invitation. In many particulars it reminded me of the plantations in our southern country. Two years ago the village of cottages was burned down, when the proprietor immediately built brick kilns, having materials and wood on the spot, and reconstructed the houses better than before. He is one of the few Russian nobles who attends personally to his estate, and has much of the American in his composition for contrivance. He has three hundred and eighty-four serfs. They work three days in the week for their lord, and three for themselves. He had erected a flouring mill of very rude construction, with several run of stones. Little iron was made use of, as such supplies come from Moscow, and are very expensive. He also had an undershot wheel in the little creek or river for supplying his large garden and fruit trees with water by irrigation, as the steppes or plains suffer much at times from drought. The little girls of the village were busying themselves with gathering mulberry leaves for feeding silkworms, as he had erected a building for the purpose. The women and men were employed in all kinds of agricultural work. He has his overseers, but is quite practical himself. His family was absent, but his home was comfortable, and I was treated most hospitably.

He was willing to join in the manumission of the serfs, now the commands of the government fall upon him. If the serfs are liberated, he can rent his land to them, also sell or rent horses, oxen, &c., and if he employs them, pay wages. His domain is about ten miles square.

Staverpool is the seat of government for northern Circassia. It is a town of fourteen thousand inhabitants, built upon a pretty site in the midst of a picturesque country, and surrounded by hills, and valleys, and groups of forest trees. It is pretty well built, and contains a cathedral, and churches, with domes, spires, and roofs painted green, as usual, presenting a fine appearance. In all Russian towns the churches are the most striking ornaments.

I was presented to the governor, dined with generals and colonels in the service, and passed an evening at a re-union of the citizens in a beautiful woody grove, with a building for dancing and supper, at which figured the glittering uniforms of officers in all the different branches of government employ, and some pretty ladies, handsomely dressed. Paris modes and fineries find their way to the most remote parts. Two Circassian princes, in full costume, were among the number for their first time in civilized society; but like our Indians, did not express surprise at the giddy waltz, or the music of the military band.

CXL.

TAGANROG, RUSSIA, June 28, 1858.

From Staverpool I had five hundred wersts to travel in order to strike the waters of the river Don, at Rastoff, a town which thrives through the increasing grain trade. From thence I came in a tug steamer to this city, on the head waters of the Sea of Azoff.

The scenery on the route is little varied, consisting of vast steppes, or plains, with seldom any timber to be seen, and Cossack villages every twenty wersts and upwards. Immense droves of cattle, sheep, goats, and horses are frequently observed grazing, and cultivation is somewhat better and more general than in the country I had passed through before.

The natural roads over the prairies are easy for horses and for travellers, but quite monotonous. Posting is less difficult, and less dangerous, from the attacks of freebooters, being out of the district of the Circassians, but it is almost as difficult to obtain supplies on the road.

When horses were obtainable, we kept on until late at night, as my companion assured me there was no danger. He was familiar with the roads, and, notwithstanding others lay by through apprehension, and postmasters would not furnish horses after dark, he said at the point where we were, the Circassians could not seize us, and get across the line of sentinels by daylight; besides which, at this season they had their engagements, and can also be traced through the grass. As I was anxious to get on to catch the weekly steamer, I allowed myself to be convinced, and can now rejoice at being out of the reach of the Abassiens, Mingraliens, Georgians, Circassians, and Cossacks.

A few evenings since, at one of the rude stations where we passed the night, a pleasing rencontre for my friend was the meeting of a general en route for his post on the shores of the Caspian. They had not met since they were cadets together, some fifteen years before. He was provided with some choice sherry and some old Havanas, which gave additional zest to an evening in a barbarous country.

This pretty, well-built town, occupied in part by Greeks, who have made fortunes in the grain trade, was sadly mutilated by the fleets of the allies. Many of the ruined houses and magazines have been restored. I counted thirteen cannon shot in the front of the house of an eccentric individual, who had made his repairs, and stuccoed the balls, mosaic like, in the front. The lower part of the city, under the bluff, was entirely destroyed, and the upper part, on the hill, badly damaged.

There are some two hundred vessels, of different nations, in the roadstead, waiting for cargoes of flint wheat, or the lighters loaded with the ordinary kinds, brought from Rastoff, or higher up in the Don. Large quantities are transported from the river Wolga to the Don, and floated down. The fisheries of the river are also important, and quantities of caviar are made from the eggs of the sturgeon, for exportation. The hide, wool, and tallow traffic is also considerable.

A monument to the Emperor Alexander, who died here after his visit to the Crimea, is erected upon the public square. The so-called palace, a large mansion house, where he died, is visited generally by Russian travellers. The room he died in has an altar in it, and the priest who was with him in his last hours still lives, and presides on festive occasions. I noticed here, also, that a few stray shots of the enemy had done their work.

I found one village near Rastoff almost exclusively occupied by Armenians. Their churches are handsome edifices, and will compare favorably with the Russian churches for beauty of architecture, and the towers and cupolas painted white, with green roofs, have a pretty effect. The interior decorations are not unlike the Russian Greek churches, which, in paintings, images, crucifixes, lamps, and candles, are more overloaded than the Latin Catholics.

The Armenians are generally a money-getting race, and surpass the Jews in financiering.

Among the different races which I have found in this country, the Kalmucks must not be forgotten. They remind me of the Chinese as far as traits of feature are concerned. They are mostly employed as shepherds. Their huts are made of a sort of felt, under which husband, wife, and children are grouped together. They use for covering the skins of sheep, and live upon black bread and loppered milk. They kill no animal for food, it being contrary to religious prejudice; but when one dies, I notice the great iron pot is partly filled with water, and placed over the fire in the middle of the tent. The intestines of the beast are boiled with slices of pressed common tea, which comes overland in the shape of cakes, and a soup is prepared for the whole family.

Russia comprises such an infinity of races, some half-civilized, and some barbarian, that it is not surprising, notwithstanding the upper classes are educated, and have the surface, or gloss, of high civilization, that one often discovers the traces of barbarism when least expected. They are hospitable in general, and I have received many civilities at their hands; but nevertheless the proverb, “Scratch the Russian a little, and under the surface you find the Tartar,” in many instances is not incorrect. They are trying to improve their condition, but what can be done by a people who rely upon the will of one man, whose word is law?

The routine of Bureaucracy is fearful. The laws are a mass of ukases issued by the different emperors, and many remain dead letters. For instance the Emperor Nicholas, hearing of a great conflagration from the use of lucifer matches, issued an edict prohibiting their introduction, which does not prevent the general use of them; still the ukase is not countermanded. The abuses of officials are also startling. The government was robbed to a great extent during the war by persons who are now living in splendor. Many were detected who had sent their ill-gotten gains to the bank on interest; these sums were confiscated.

The crown has now reduced the rate of interest from four to three per cent. on bank deposits, hoping to induce the people to invest in railroads, but they say they would rather have three per cent. certain than risk their money in new undertakings. There is no spirit of public enterprise among the people, and if there was, every possible obstacle would be thrown in the way by the officers and employees of the government.

The circulation is mostly the Government Bank paper, which is prohibited from coming in if once taken out, and when one leaves the country, to buy gold and silver he must pay a handsome advance, as both of the precious metals bear a premium, and the bank can only be called upon for small sums. The natural consequence of such a state of things in any country is advanced prices for all articles of consumption.

If the last emperor had employed one half the vast sums expended in keeping up a gigantic military force, in improvements to the roads and rivers, and in railways, he would have been a great benefactor to his people.

Much is hoped and expected from the present emperor, who is willing to be guided and advised, while Nicholas was obstinate, and his will was law. I find more liberty of speech and action among the people now than when I first visited Russia, ten years ago, when every one felt as if his neighbor was a spy.

CXLI.

ODESSA, July 6, 1858.

At this season of the year Odessa is only livable and visible after a rain storm, such as we have just had. It then appears to advantage, as the houses are of stone, well built, with metal roofs painted green. The soil is clayey, and the streets broad and unpaved, so that the hundreds of ox carts loaded with grain and the immense numbers of droskies produce a perfect cloud of dust, exceeding anything of the kind in the world. In winter it is very muddy, but at this period of heat without rain, it is a sort of purgatory. In twenty-four hours it will be dusty again, notwithstanding the heavy fall of rain we have just had, rendering the streets extremely difficult to cross. There are magazines or stores in the city for fifteen million bushels of grain.

A great annoyance to travellers leaving Russia is the procuring of passports. All the necessary measures must be taken at the police in person, and the intention of departure must be advertised three times in the Russian Journal, which appears only every other day, making a delay of a week, if fortunately no holiday or festival intervenes. At every point you are taxed for stamp paper, advertising fees, and other items, to sustain the hordes of officers. Your pass for interior travel is taken from you, and a new one has to be made out. Your original pass must be visé by the minister or consul of the country you design visiting, and another is not forthcoming until the chief of the police certifies there are no civil or criminal charges alleged, and then, perhaps, it is too late for the weekly steamer, thereby detaining the stranger against his will for perhaps a fortnight. I am now only in possession of my books and maps, which were seized by the Censor when I entered Russia. The obstacles thrown in the way of travellers should be noticed by enlightened Governments. Through the assistance of the Governor, to whom I went in person, I shall get through with less difficulty. The last act signed is by the Quarantine Officer, without whose visé one cannot get on board of the steamer. Is it any wonder that the progress of this great nation should be retarded? Where would the United States be if our system was as contracted as the European?

I came from Taganrog to Kertch, stopping at Esck, a new town just growing up, at Mariopol, and at Berdiansk, the latter a little city of commercial importance, but whose trade may now fall off, its privileges having expired.

In order to build up a new city, as is the case with Esck, which reminds me of one of our new towns in the West, the commercial tax upon a merchant is taken off for ten years, if he will erect a store at a certain cost in the new city. Large dealers in Moscow, or other cities, find it to their advantage to make the outlay, without ever seeing the property. The system strikes me as a forced one, and after the term expires the town may decline.

The ex-governor of Kertch and myself were the only persons landed at Esck, and the governor drove us around in his drosky, and to his house for refreshments.

I passed a day at Kertch, where I met the newly appointed consul for Soukum Kale, whose family I knew at Tripoli. We visited the governor actual of the city, and dined with the English consul, where were present Spanish, Neapolitan, Sardinian, French, English, and Tuscan ministers and consuls, and I found myself the only non-official at the table, which, however, did not prevent our great nation from having a representative.

I next embarked for Odessa, touching at Theodosie, Yalta, Sebastopol, and Eupatoria, all of which places I had visited before. A telegraphic dispatch had been received announcing the plague on the Barbary coast, where I was last winter, and to which I gave little credence. The alarm, however, was great, and it looked as if we should have to make a quarantine of fifteen days, as the steamer had come from Trebisond, in Turkey. The whole thing was ridiculous; but the passengers at Theodosie were not allowed to land at first, and the excitement among the ladies was quite intense. Having made two quarantines formerly, after crossing the desert to Jerusalem, and from Egypt to Malta, I was also glad to escape.

At Sebastopol I found our countrymen had recently raised a Turkish steamer taken by the Russians during the war. I examined her hull, and found it sound. The engines and boilers were in good order. The upper wood-work of pine was much eaten by the worms, but the painted work was not touched. They have heretofore had every difficulty to contend with, and have divided the property raised, or exploded and fished up, equally with the government; but the crown is now disposed to be more liberal, and the company are to have all they save, giving half the chains and anchors to the government, and are to raise the frigate Vladimir gratis. The wharves are covered with old copper, iron bolts, fragments of wood, water tanks, &c., &c.; altogether, it is a curious collection. It is to be hoped they will succeed, particularly as the English Times has indulged in a side thrust at both Americans and Russians, by announcing the failure of the Americans, and that the harbor must remain blocked up until the worms destroy the wrecks.

Our anniversary was not forgotten by our consul, Mr. Ralli, a wealthy Greek merchant, who has had the honor and little pay for the last twenty-four years. He drove me to his country-seat, where a sumptuous dinner and fine old wines were provided, and toasts heartily drank to the memory of the father of our great country. As the writer was the only native born present, of course a few words were expected from him.

Whether it was by accident or design I know not, but a later invitation was offered from Mr. Matthew, the late English consul at Philadelphia, now consul general here, to dine the same day, but deferred for a subsequent one.

He protests his innocence in the affair of the recruits, which caused his removal, and looks back with pleasure upon his sojourn in the States, where he left many warm friends.

The terminus of a railway in all countries awakes a spirit of speculation, which I was struck with at Theodosie, the projected terminus of a railroad from Moscow, which may be a long time yet in construction. The people were brushing up and making repairs in the dull-looking town, and property was already out of the reach of buyers.

In the suburbs is a Tartar village of mud huts and thatched roofs. While strolling through the Musselman district with my map in my hand, and tourist glass directed to the chain of hills, with their line of windmills, I was surrounded by men, women, and children, whose curiosity was excited to know, either from motives of interest, or dread of having their houses torn down, where the iron horse was to come in, they having of course an indefinite idea of a railroad.

The Russian steamers on the Azof and Black Seas are of English or French construction, and are now manned by Russian officers. Three of the steamers among the number I have sailed in had none but Russian servants, speaking their language only, which is awkward for such strangers as have no knowledge of the same, particularly as the passage tickets include dinner only, and all other meals and refreshments are extra, so that at the end of the voyage the items for the traveller increase the expense from a third to a half. The English and American system is the best for sea steamers, where all is included and payable in advance. For the information of those who desire, it may be remarked that Russia is one of the most expensive countries in Europe to obtain the comforts and luxuries of life in.

CXLII.

BADEN, AUSTRIA, July 28, 1858.

Our steamer left Odessa at six P. M., and the next morning at sunrise we found ourselves at the entrance of one of the mouths of the Danube, with Sulina, the Turkish port, at our left, a small ill-built wooden town, its position reminding me of the Balize at the mouth of the Mississippi, with low banks and marshy soil, covered with reeds and rank vegetation. Large numbers of vessels lie straggling along the wooden wharves, waiting for a favorable wind, and tug boats to tow them up to their destined ports for cargoes of grain.

We had but few passengers; among the number was a Georgian Princess, the grand-daughter of the last King, whom I had met with her husband, a Russian colonel, in their own country. This lady is the sister of the Princesses taken captive by Schamyl, who were ransomed by the Russian government, as mentioned in a former letter. The meeting was the more agreeable, because quite unexpected. The society of a young and beautiful Georgian woman, with all the simplicity and amiability of the lady, speaking the English and French language fluently, as well as her husband, a man of large experience in Circassia, was calculated to make a long trip less irksome than it would otherwise have been.

At four P. M. we arrived at Galatz, in Moldavia, a city of some forty thousand inhabitants, where we changed steamers, remaining there thirty-six hours, awaiting the arrival of the passengers from Constantinople.

A larger boat was now furnished, constructed after the manner of our American river boats, with a saloon on the main deck, abaft the wheels, an upper promenade deck, and a number of cabins upon the forward deck. Our numbers being considerably augmented, the heat was oppressive, and mosquitoes brought back reminiscences of the Alabama and Apalachicola in the spring time.

We landed at Giurgevo, in Wallachia, a small town, the port of Bucharest. Both Galatz and the place named lie upon the river bank, but the principal parts are upon bluffs above. Galatz has a mixed population of all races. As the Principalities are subject to Turkey, the coin of that country is in use, as well as that of all the neighboring states, and the numbers of money-changers installed at short intervals upon the sidewalks, present a curious spectacle.

The language has much of the old Roman in its composition, and one is struck with the names of streets and persons upon signboards bearing analogy to the Italian. The dresses of the peasants also struck me as resembling those worn in Italy. The original inhabitants were evidently Romans. Their sympathies are, however, more Russian, as they profess most generally the Greek faith.

The river is quite serpentine in its course, and the scenery as we advanced became more varied, groups of forest trees and better cultivation being seen. Turkish villages lie along the left banks with their mosques and minarets, and Wallachian and Moldavian villages on the right.

We passed Silistria, celebrated for its defence by the Turks and defeat of the Russians with a loss of twelve thousand men; landed and received passengers at Mikopol, and at the strongly fortified town of Widdin, and arrived at the Eisernen Thor, or Iron Gate, where the low stage of water obliged the landing of passengers, and we took wagons for the distance of a few miles and found a small steamer of light draught of water, which conveyed us through the pass between high mountains of the boldest and most romantic scenery, a miniature Switzerland, to the town of Orsova, the frontier line of Hungary. Here all the luggage was discharged and carried to the Austrian Custom House for examination. Tobacco, sealed letters, and playing cards were handled without mercy, and some of the passengers had to pay heavily.

We made a halt at Belgrade, the last point in Turkey, and at Semlen near the mouth of the Save. The Hungarian shores were alive with cattle, horses, and sheep grazing.

At Widdin we took on board its Governor, Ismet Pacha, and suite. I found him an intelligent and liberal-minded man. Our sleeping apartments being contiguous we had frequent interviews, and I found he entertained a high opinion of American character and enterprise. He has occupied many important positions, and tells me he has always protected the Christians.

An unpleasant affair has just occurred at Belgrade in the attack on the English consul by a Turkish soldier; he escaped without serious injury. This, however, with the recent massacre at Jiddah, and the murder of the Greeks and attack of the Christians in Candia, have produced a painful impression throughout Europe.

The voyage up the Danube, although offering much of interest, is rather monotonous, occupying seven days from Odessa to Pesth, in Hungary, where the railroad can be taken for Vienna. The distance probably does not equal that from New Orleans to Louisville, which occupies less time, and our steamers afford better accommodations to passengers at one-third the cost.

The Danube Steamship Company have one hundred and five steamers in all, besides barges for towing. The capital employed is very large. Last year, with the outlays for wharves, new boats, etc., they were deficient over a million of guilders. With the further extension of the railways, and the probable free navigation for all flags, the success formerly obtained is questionable.

I spent a couple of days in the capital city of Hungary, which I formerly described to you. It is a fine, well-built, and well-paved city, offering many objects of attraction. Near Orsova the spot was pointed out to us where the crown of Hungary, secreted as it is said by Kossuth, was discovered. A small chapel is erected on the spot.

From Pesth I took the railroad to this celebrated Austrian watering-place. It is abundantly supplied with hot and cold sulphur baths, and swimming schools for ladies and gentlemen. A most charming, romantic, and picturesque country lies about it. The town has a population of four thousand, and there is about an equal number of guests. It is only an hour’s ride by rail from Vienna, and consequently much frequented. The bath houses are well built structures, with comfortable quarters for families or private individuals; the ladies and gentlemen have separate entrances and dressing rooms, but generally bathe together in deep square baths, surrounded by a gallery for the use of friends or spectators. They use bathing dresses, which are numbered. It is rather startling at first when one enters, to find a party of gentlemen and ladies walking about, their heads only above water, and engaged in cheerful conversation. Private baths may be obtained, but the masses prefer passing the hour in society, talking over the affairs of the day and making arrangements for excursions and dinner parties.

CXLIII.

BATHS OF TÖPLITZ, BOHEMIA, Aug. 21, 1858.

From the baths of Baden, in Austria, I came to the old capital, Vienna, which I found dull as usual at this season of the year, as all who can get into the country make their escape. A grand work of improvement is in progress here. The old Bastei, or walls which fortified and surrounded the city, are being torn away and levelled. The concentration of business and residences in the city had increased the average occupancy of houses to seventy persons each, or double the number of any city in Europe, and the want of room for extension had caused the building up of some twenty-five suburbs, towns and villages. The admission of light and air will lessen the mortality, which was in greater proportion to the population than in other well-regulated cities.

We came from Vienna to Prague in one day, by rail. Having visited this city repeatedly, and, I think, described the same, I will not hazard a repetition.

Four hours by rail brought me to this celebrated watering-place, which has been used for the last thousand years. The distance now traversed by the locomotive within a day, cost me more than five days’ travel, by the posts of the country, before these conveyances were introduced.

I found Töplitz much changed since my last visit, years ago. The railroad now connects it with Dresden, the Saxon capital, within a few hours. The town has about six thousand inhabitants, and the number of guests throughout the season equals that amount. Besides numerous hotels, almost every private house furnishes lodgings, and has a particular name, which one would suppose would exhaust the whole vocabulary of words. There are some eighty bathing establishments of all kinds, capable of accommodating four thousand four hundred persons daily with warm baths.

The many romantic walks and drives, the park grounds of the chateau of Prince Clary, to whom the buildings, bath, and spacious garden where I have taken up my abode belong, all afford an infinite variety for the stranger. The majority of the visitors, however, being here ostensibly for health, there is less life and animation than at the watering-places on the Rhine. The character of the guests is less varied. Russians, Germans, and Poles predominate. Only a few French, Italians, English, or Americans are here this season. Indeed the baths generally are less frequented since the late crisis, and the complaint is general in cities as well as places of summer resort, of the falling off of travel.

In the Austrian dominions gaming is not allowed, which pays all the expenses of the great bathing establishments in the little German Duchies, and attracts a different class of society. Here a tax is levied upon every visitor, called Kur-und Musik Taxe, which I hold the receipt for in Baden and here, and as I design visiting Karlsbad and Marienbad, I shall not be forgotten by the collector or by the Barmherzige Brüder, who presents himself as soon as one gets comfortably quartered in his hotel, for a subscription for the infirm poor of all nations, who are received and treated gratis.

We rise at six A.M.; drink of the mineral waters agreeably to medical advice; walk until eight; partake of coffee, milk, and plain bread, without the accompaniment of fresh butter; bathe at ten; repose, without sleeping, in warm clothing, and avoid stimulants, fruits, acids, and fat or greasy food, as long as under treatment.

This place is indebted to Frederick William III., king of Prussia, who visited it annually for nearly a quarter of a century, thereby prolonging his life, and expended yearly about the same sum our President receives for his full term. Consequently the citizens, as well they could, have erected a monument upon what is called King’s Hill, to the memory of their lamented guest.

There is, as usual, a theatre, concert rooms, a shooting house for target exercise, coffee saloons, and music in the open air, all calculated to sustain the drooping spirits of sufferers. I find more persons in little wagons, and chairs upon wheels, drawn or pushed about by servants, than at other baths. I have met with many paralytic cases, but the waters are used for such a variety of diseases, that it would be difficult to enumerate them. Many finish the cure here, after making use of other springs in the early part of the season. It is interesting to hear the counting up of so many more baths, and so much more water to be drunk, before they can escape the exactions of the physicians, and can set their faces towards home, or upon intended travels.

For now nearly a month the friends of monarchy have been expecting the birth of a prince or princess to the crown of Austria. If the former, one hundred and one guns would announce the happy event; but if the latter, the news will fall upon them like a cold shower bath, as I observed two years since in Milan, where the authorities had the great cathedral decorations prepared for the occasion; when the tidings came of another female heir, twenty-one guns only hailed the news, and the celebration was a failure. Amid the expectations of the interested, I notice in the public journal that the empress’s health continues good. I also translate literally an article of court news from the same journal, as follows:

“The Little Wagon of Princess Gisella.--In Laxenburg the little Princess rides often in a little wagon, to which is attached a little donkey. The governess rides upon a similar animal by her side. The sight is extremely delightful, and excites the most intense interest among the park visitors.” Comment is unnecessary.

The birthday of the emperor has just been celebrated by the firing of cannon, ringing of bells, high mass in the church, and music by the band, all of which it is incumbent upon the officials and employees to perform. In order to be conversant with the affair, I attended the dinner given in commemoration, but it struck me that it went off with little enthusiasm, and without that spontaneous effusion of patriotism so marked on public occasions in our country.

Since my last visit, two years since, I find the currency somewhat better. The shinplasters for ten kreutzers, or eight cents, are supplanted by an alloy, and the national bank, on the 13th of October, will make an effort to resume specie payments. It has three hundred and eighty millions of paper guilders afloat, equal to one hundred and ninety millions of dollars. The government of Austria has a debt of two billions of guilders, or one billion dollars, and it is every year increasing the debt. The interest is equal to fifty millions of dollars yearly. What would we think in our country of such a load upon its shoulders? The resources of the country, it is true, are great; but the whole territory does not equal in superficial area the state of Texas. Every source of income is squeezed and pressed out, while the farm laborer obtains only twenty-four kreutzers, or twenty cents per day, not enough to keep body and soul together.

CXLIV.

MARIENBAD, BOHEMIA, August 29, 1858.

Karlsbad lies thirteen hundred and seventy feet above the level of the sea, in a deep narrow valley between steep projecting granite rocks and hills, upon the margin of a little serpentine stream, and from the many points of look-out reached by circuitous paths, gives enchanting views and panoramas. Upon one of the ragged jutting points stands a bronze deer, indicating the Hirschsprung. As the story goes, the discoverer of the Sprudel, or hot bubbling spring, which throws out forty-five buckets of water per minute, was the Emperor Karl the Fourth, in the year 1379, while in pursuit of a deer, which leaped over the precipice, pursued by the dogs, and when found was in a cooked condition in the boiling element.

The town has about three thousand inhabitants, and the Kurliste calls for about four thousand visitors during the season. What is called the wiese, or meadow, is formed of two long rows of houses built against the rocks fronting on the little stream Tepel, spanned by bridges, promenades bordered with shade trees, a quantity of little shops filled with wares and ornaments of every variety, offering a lounge for the ladies. Both sexes sit in the open air and take coffee and refreshments, and the parties are more thrown together, making it more like a family circle than in many other bathing places.

The different springs are so arranged with galleries as to protect from the sun and rainy weather. The walks and ascents are of the most wild and romantic character. Savage scenery and deep woods of thick forest trees, affording exercise and protecting from heat, abound. Altogether the natural attractions are almost unsurpassed on the continent. Baden-Baden and Karlsbad are two of the watering-places of Europe, where within a few minutes’ time one may escape the noise and excitement of the multitude, and find himself solitary and alone, admiring the works of nature.

The heat of the spring is 165° Fahrenheit. Objects encrusted with the deposit of this water are polished and prepared in different forms, the colors resembling the lava of Vesuvius, and are quite an article of commerce. Here is seen the crucifix upon Kreuz Berg. Now one stumbles upon a monument to the memory of a benefactor who has built a new walk, or extended balconies or iron railings; then one imagines, in a narrow defile in the rocks, he is entering a graveyard, with slabs to the memory of the deceased, but on reading the engravings in different languages, he finds they are tributes and songs of praise from invalids to the waters for restored health.

After a halt of a few days at this agreeable place, I proceeded to Marienbad. It is also a lovely spot, with newer arrangements than Karlsbad, better bath houses, and larger and better hotels. It lies one thousand nine hundred and thirty-two feet above the level of the North Sea, and contains only about one hundred and twenty private houses. Nearly six hundred thousand jugs of this water are sent out, and it finds its way to all parts of Europe. The entire spring grounds form an English park, with trout brooks running through, and are particularly adapted for those who wish to escape the bustle of the world to take care of their health while here in this quiet valley surrounded by hills and pleasant walks. Nature and art together offer everything for the recovery of the lost blessing.

The sources here, as well as at Karlsbad, are various, and the springs are built over. The Krews Brunnen has a colonnade of seventy-two Ionic columns, with a long hall connecting for bad weather. Before the same is the promenade, under the shade of lofty trees, with music morning and evening. Every guest has his vari-colored Bohemian glass, and takes his turn at the fountain of health, at intervals of a quarter of an hour, with a walk in the meantime.

A bright Sunday morning at Karlsbad announced the long expected birth of an heir to the Hapsburg dynasty. The bulletins gave the information that it was a crown prince, and accordingly a hundred and one guns were fired, all the church bells were rung, a Te Deum was performed, and the officers military and civil, with their trappings and orders, paraded through the streets much to the edification of the peasants, in their picturesque costumes, who were attracted to the town by the holiday. At night the hills were illuminated with the lights representing the double-headed eagle, with the letters F. J., a twinkling star, and E., signifying Francis Joseph and Elizabeth.

The great achievement of the submarine telegraph strikes all with amazement, and the masses begin to comprehend that America is considerable of a country. The peasants have heard that grain in our country is sowed, harvested, threshed, and cleaned by machines, instead of manual labor, and the inquiry is, how is it possible?

Our failure in commercial affairs, through extended enterprise, improvements, and fast living, made Europe feel our importance, and from which it still suffers. We retrenched, stopped buying goods, and economized in public and private outlays, which cannot be done here with their standing armies and expensive court charges; and now I remark our banks are loaded down with specie, new gold discoveries are added to the stock, and only the movement of commerce is needed to put the wheels again in motion.

What would our farmers say if every head of cattle sold, paid a tax of two dollars for slaughtering privilege, and smaller animals in proportion; and every sale of houses and land from five to ten per cent. to the crown.

Hotelkeepers and owners of private houses, for neglect in announcing to the police the harboring a friend or stranger over night, have to pay from five to ten guilders.

CXLV.

COPENHAGEN, DENMARK, Sept 12, 1858.

I had not the remotest idea of revisiting this northern region when I wrote you last; but such are the extraordinary facilities of locomotion in this age, that one finds himself within a few days transported hundreds and thousands of miles. I was on my way to Swinemunde, on the Baltic, for sea bathing, when I heard that my old friend Captain Irminger, with whom I visited Caraccas, La Guayra, and Porto Cabello in Venezuela, and the Island of Curaçoa, and who landed me on the small island of Beati, south of Hayti, many years since, from the brig-of-war Örnen, was now residing in this city as admiral of the Danish fleet, and I felt that I could not resist the desire of seeing him again.

I can scarcely realize the fact that at this time last year I had just returned home for a visit, and have since passed over so much ground in Europe, Asia, and Africa. It seems but yesterday that I was climbing the mountains of Circassia, or travelling rapidly over the steppes of Southern Russia, or wandering through the ruins of Sebastopol, passing in review within the year Arabs, Egyptians, Turks, Circassians, Georgians, Greeks, Hungarians, Moldavians, and a host of other races; but when I reflect that space is now almost annihilated, I must be reconciled to the fact, and turn my attention to the quiet and peaceful Dane, and mark the changes, if any, since I saw him for the first time.

From Marienbad I came twenty miles to Franzensbad, not remarkable for its position, but somewhat for the healing qualities of its waters, of which about two hundred thousand jugs are sent away, and about two hundred invalids visit it annually.

What struck me as most singular are the Schlambäder, or Turf Baths, charged with alkali, salt, and iron. One large bath house is adapted to this use. A number of men are employed digging and wheeling in turf, which is broken and ground in a mill, not unlike the breaking of clay for brickmaking. A steam engine of sixteen horse power is employed for this use, as also for pumping and for the heating of the water reservoirs. The bath tubs are mounted on wheels, filled with the black mixture, like thick mud, and rolled through the inner courtyard and in the outer door of the bath rooms. The patient takes his bath and then jumps into another of equally hot water, for washing and cleansing himself. The cost of such a bath is only half a dollar. They are said to be extremely strengthening after the use of other baths and water drinking, and particularly useful in rheumatic and paralytic afflictions. A couple of days was quite sufficient to familiarize one’s self with the springs, grounds, advantages, and disadvantages of the locality.

A ride of thirty-five miles by post, and one bids adieu to Bohemia, in Austria, and strikes the frontier of Saxony on the railroad to Leipzig, a city celebrated for its fairs. It has seventy thousand inhabitants, and is surrounded with pretty garden suburbs. Among the number is Gerhard’s, where is the monument to Prince Poniatowski, who lost his life in jumping his horse across the little stream Elster, which runs through the city. This was at the famous battle of Leipzig, of 1813.

I arrived on a Saturday evening. The next morning service commenced in the Protestant churches at half-past eight, and continued till half-past ten. Numerous congregations attended, and listened to earnest, faithful preaching. During the exercises all places of entertainment are closed, but opened afterwards for necessary purposes.

The beautiful walks of Rosenthal, and oak woods, that extended to the village of Gohlis where Schiller wrote his Don Carlos, were fully occupied with promenaders after dinner, and the many public gardens filled with the multitudes partaking of their coffee and lager beer, the men smoking their pipes and cigars, women embroidering and listening to the bands of music, and children with their nurses amusing themselves upon the grass. All seemed happy and quiet, and as the evening approached some wended their way to the summer theatre, in an open garden, others to their homes. Such are the customs, and such the force of education even in the land of Luther’s reformation.

I made a halt of two days at Leipzig by way of reviving my recollections, and spent a day at Halle, on the river Saale, noted for its university--a very old city, of thirty thousand inhabitants, offering nothing of particular interest. The railroad passes through Gotha, Dessau, and Wittenburg, all of which places I had formerly seen in detail before this mode of conveyance existed here. As I partook of some refreshment at Wittenburg, which I once described to you, I inquired if the old town was as much a place of pilgrimage as formerly. The reply was to the contrary, since the railroad passed through the people had no time to stop. It had once cost me a long journey to visit the houses where Luther and Melancthon lived and wrote, and where they lie buried.

I also looked in upon friends at Berlin, whom I had left eighteen months before, a picnic party in the country being the result, and made a visit to the grounds of Baron Humboldt, where the remains of the illustrious traveller’s parents are entombed.

Governor Wright drove us to Charlottenburg, the royal residence. At the opera in the evening the young crown prince of Prussia was present with his new bride, young Victoria. A sojourn of three days in a city which I had visited so repeatedly, and in which I had almost gained a residence, was brief, but I was en route for the salt breezes of the sea, and two days later found myself walking ashore from the good steamer Geiser in the well known port of Copenhagen.

The admiral accompanied me up the coast by steamer some thirty miles to Helsingsen, and visited the famous old castle of Kronburg and its fortifications, whose thirty-six pounders reach the Swedish coast opposite, but as the Sound dues are now compromised with all foreign powers, the neat and formerly flourishing town looks cheerless. The neighboring bathing place, Marienburg, if once brought into notice, would help to revive it.

Omitting the Dardanelles, few straits are so much used by vessels as this passage. A strong north wind was bringing in many ships, while almost an entire fleet were at anchor waiting to get out.

The settlement of this knotty Sound question is a source of gratification to all ship navigators, and the result, I trust, will be quite as advantageous for Denmark.

A ride of twenty-two miles from the city to the castle of Fredericksborg, with the visit to the beautiful grounds and the interior of the immense edifice, with its richly decorated saloons, halls, church, and picture galleries, and return, occupied a full day, even with fast horses and equipages from the royal stables.

My friend ranks as chamberlain to the king, and presented me to his majesty, whom we found with his master of ceremonies on a fishing excursion. He is passionately fond of angling, and had already caught sufficient for a good dinner, which he had served in a little summer-house, upon a small island in the lake. He received me cordially, and we had a long chat in French together, and he assured me I should always be welcome in Denmark. I enjoyed a lunch in the palace, a stroll in the flower and fruit gardens, and through the extended park, and immense and majestic Black Forest, a glance over the beautiful lakes and picturesque sheets of water, and the return drive to town, and the setting sun found me at a family dinner with one with whom I had passed through many interesting scenes nine years before.

CXLVI.

SWINEMUNDE, PRUSSIA, Sept. 20, 1858.

In my last communication from Denmark, space did not permit a description of many objects of attraction in and about Copenhagen, which might afford pleasure and information to the tourists, most of whom, however, wend their way to the south of Europe.

The celebrated Danish sculptor, Thorwaldsen, left his fortune for the founding of a museum, in the court of which repose his remains, surrounded by the models and many of the originals of all his great works of art. The government collections of antiquity, from the earliest occupation of the country, when hatchets and weapons of stone were only known, marking the various periods of civilization, and improvements from wood and stone to iron and steel, are of great interest.

The visitor can form a pretty accurate idea of Iceland, Lapland, and Greenland life from the many objects of costume, boats, sledges drawn by dogs, &c., in use in those countries. The suburbs of the city abound with beautiful gardens, and places of public resort for concerts, summer theatres, and amusements for the masses, who flock thither on festival occasions. The now gay appearance of the city, and the air of comfort among the people, struck me favorably, having seen them first during the Schleswig-Holstein war, under disadvantageous circumstances.

By steamer I came to this place, from which I write, lying upon the island of Usedom, about fifty miles from Stettin, upon the river Oder. It is a harbor, bath, and garrison city of five thousand inhabitants.

The abolition of the Sound duties has proved of great advantage to Stettin, to this place, and indeed to all the Prussian ports of the Baltic. They should thank our government for the initiative measures in the matter. Denmark felt aggrieved, without doubt, at our obstinacy, but eventually it will probably be for her interest, as the revenue fund, the respective sums contributed by different powers, will perhaps quite equal the former receipts, particularly after passing through the hands of many office-holders.

The communication daily between this place and Stettin, up the river, the departure and arrival of sailing vessels, steamers for Sweden, Denmark, and Russia, gives an additional interest to bath guests, whose numbers amount to perhaps a thousand at some periods of the season. The bath-houses for both sexes lie about a mile from the town, upon a beautiful sandy beach, and are reached by shady walks for those on foot, or by good carriage roads. The excursions are by steamer to the island of Rugen; by carriage to another bath called Herrings Dorf, prettily situated among leafy groves, with a delightful and invigorating salt atmosphere. A village of fishermen is found in the vicinity, who furnish a good supply of the eatables of the briny sea. The weather is still mild, the water sufficiently warm, and the baths are considered serviceable until the first of next month. It being however late, the majority of the guests have departed, leaving the theatre players with a light audience, and the weekly balls thinly attended. The house owners can repose for the winter upon the summer harvest, until spring, when the whitewashing, painting, and little flower gardens must be looked after, and made as attractive as possible, to the eye of the tenant.

The new fortifications here are of remarkable strength and beauty, effectually protecting the narrow entrance to the harbor. The brick lighthouse, two hundred feet in height, ascended by a spiral staircase of three hundred steps, is provided with the French Reflectors, and can be seen for many miles. A view from the top over the sea, the river, and the surrounding country, well repays the climber. Our worthy German vice-consul, Herr Krouse, and his excellent family, have offered civilities tending to make my sojourn very agreeable. The soil is sandy, the streets unpaved, and in some respects I am reminded of Cape May; but an excursion a few miles brings one to dense pine forests, then to fertile pasture fields, where fine crops of hay have been gathered; then come turf meadows, with inexhaustible quantities of fuel, which, strange to say, after being dug over a few years is found to be renewed. These belong to the Crown, that leases them out for a term, for extracting or cutting, and derives a large revenue therefrom. Then we ascend a high hill covered with beech trees, affording an extensive and enchanting view of the neighboring country. At one point some four thousand acres of land are covered with water, or shallow lake, which is in process of being reclaimed, or pumped out, after the system of Holland. Altogether, the country has attractions for one accustomed to sights where nature is more lavish of her gifts; but those from the flat lands of the north of the kingdom, who smell salt water for the first time, are quite in raptures, and chant the praises of the baths of Prussia’s most prominent watering-place.

On inquiry I find the laboring classes are better paid here, as is the case in most sea-ports, than they are in the interior. In Denmark the condition of that class seems easier, and there are less dispositions to emigrate. The female portion of some parts of Germany are the most entitled to sympathy. They are made slaves and beasts of burden, and ill paid for their services. Even in hotels where the wirt, or master, taxes in his bill eight silben groschen (or twenty cents per day) for service, not including the porter or boots, the poor domestics get in many cases only twenty-four thalers (or eighteen dollars) per year, and where the good will of the traveller makes a donation in many cases it is extorted from them under penalty of dismissal. More would emigrate if they had the means to get away, and would be industrious and valuable citizens in any country. The tender feelings of Europe, through incendiary works and pamphlets, have been so excited that, as Americans, we are called upon to rebut the charges of inconsistency of slave-holding under our republican system, as if we at the north were responsible for the south, and can only reply that millions on the continent might well envy the well-fed negroes upon southern plantations.

It is to be regretted that our laws are so lax in the punishment of crime, and that so many high-handed examples of public outrage occur, all of which are portrayed in glowing colors in the European journals.

CXLVII.

FRANKFORT-ON-THE-ODER, PRUSSIA, Oct. 15, 1858.

Having formerly seen Austrian and Russian Poland, whose capitals are Cracow and Warsaw, I was induced to make the detour on my route from Dantzic to look in upon Posen, the chief city of Prussian Poland, which by rail was soon accomplished.

Among the forty-five thousand inhabitants ten thousand are Jews. I came in on Saturday, their Sabbath day, and on a festival occasion, and thus had a good opportunity of seeing the multitude, as also the wealthier classes, upon the promenade, and the many pretty faces of the Hebrew women. They have recently erected a splendid synagogue, as is the case in Frankfort-on-the Maine, Pesth, in Hungary, and other places. The Jews, as a people, are acquiring wealth and importance, and making advances in science. Had they the same privileges enjoyed in our country, the distinction between the races would not be so marked.

Among the twenty-three churches of the city, a number of which I visited on the Sunday, the newly rebuilt Dome of the thirteenth century contains the Golden Chapel, in which are placed the bronze gilt statues of two Polish kings there interred. High mass was being celebrated in the Latin and Polish tongues when I visited it. The original Bauer, or peasant costume of the country was well represented. It is picturesque but somewhat ridiculous, fashion’s innovations not having yet reached it.

In the Stanislaus Church, which is of strict Italian architecture, with its marble statues of saints, illuminated glass windows, altars, pulpit decorations and paintings, I could fancy myself in the Pope’s dominions.

The Poles are decided Romanists, and cannot be converted readily by the Russians to the Greek faith, or by the Prussians to the Evangelical. The Prussian or German population is about one-third professing the Protestant and reformed religion. The balance are Israelites and Catholic Poles.

The city is fortified in the strongest manner, with walls, batteries, gates, and trenches, throughout the entire circumference, and contains immense barracks for the soldiery, stables and magazines of supplies for quite an army, if required. Several thousand troops are here stationed.

One sees no prospect for the regeneration of Poland. To occupy a position under the government the young must acquire the German language, notwithstanding their prejudice and hate of their subduers. They are divided up between three powers, and get little sympathy from the great nations they looked towards for relief. Little by little their identity will be lost, and they will become part and parcel of the governments which deprived them of their liberties.

When I look upon and examine the bulwarks of defence newly erected, and in progress of erection, at Swinemunde, Stettin, Konigsberg, here, and at Custrin, I am not surprised that from one-third to one-half of the whole revenue of Prussia is employed in the army department. These are besides only a small portion. Look at the immense establishment of Ehrenbreitstein, the Gibraltar of the Rhine; at the fortress of Mayence, and the many others on the frontiers. How thankful should we be as a people that we are not obliged to tax every article of food put into our mouths, every garment we wear, and abridge all pursuits and pleasures to sustain masses of soldiers and hordes of officers for defence against our sister states, thereby employing the youngest and most active of our youth, incapacitating them for other pursuits, and demoralizing the society of wives and daughters.

Dirschau, where the road branches off for Dantzic, has one of the finest Gothic station houses which I have seen in the north of Europe. The line belongs to the government, and the iron bridges over the river Weichsel or Vistula at that place, and over the Nogat at Marienberg, in connexion with the old castle, formerly the seat of the grand masters of the German Order of Knights, altogether attract many visitors. The old town in itself, for its antiquity, is worth a visit, but the castle is of much interest to Germans. It was built in the thirteenth and fourteenth century, during the conquest of the country, and rebuilt by the government from 1819 to 1820. The saloons are beautifully arched, and one of them is sustained by a single column gracefully supporting its burden not unlike the branches of the palm tree. A cannon ball still sticks in the wall, thrown by the besieging Poles, from which the centre pillar barely escaped.

The portraits of the Knights, with their names and coats of arms, were, for me, in some respects souvenirs of the original Knights of St. John, from which the order sprang, and of whose monuments I found so many in the islands of Rhodes and Malta. The antique figures, weapons, and coats of mail are to the people very curious.

Frankfort-on-the-Oder is in steam communication with Stettin. It is a dull city for a population of thirty thousand persons, although active during its four annual fairs, when it overflows with purchasers and sellers from all parts of Germany. Many of its warehouses are afterwards closed until the season returns, which gives it a melancholy appearance. Its suburbs and gardens, however, are pretty, as indeed they generally are in Germany, and the people have great taste for flowers and plants, as is noticed in the windows of the humblest village cottage.

I had passed through here twice before, but now I hold up for a rest, for which this city is well adapted, where nothing remarkable demands attention. It is a mistaken notion that the tourist lives a life of pleasure and indolence; on the contrary, untiring labor, application, and energy are required to enable him to profit by his travels. One is rejoiced at times to get to some quiet spot where no obligation is felt to take advantage of the sojourn, and have time for repose and to review the ground passed over.

The government is building new salt stores here upon the river bank, that article being a monopoly. Strolling along I observed some sixty men employed driving piles for the foundation, with only two drivers. I counted thirty men, each with cord in hand, a wooden handle thereto attached, and all fastened to the main rope. At a given signal up went the hammer, and down it fell upon the head of the pile. I was so astonished at the loss of power I asked the overseer why he did not use a machine, and that with six men I could accomplish more work than with his sixty. He answered they had none. I observed he would save the cost in a few days. Then an officer remarked that machines were a great curse, as they deprived the laborer of employment. The other dissented thereto, and added that they could not get men enough even at ten silben groschen (or twenty-five cents) per day. Think of that, where coffee is from thirty to forty cents per pound, sugar fifteen cents, and meats and rents in proportion, and tell me how the poor man lives!

A few days ago I met at a station an under forester in crown employ, with his wife and four children. He was being transferred from one domain to another. I asked him how much salary he had. He replied, ten thalers per month, or one hundred and twenty per year, equal to ninety dollars of our money. I inquired, “How can you get through the year?” The reply was, “I must; rye bread is now cheaper, and water costs nothing.” A young girl was also waiting with a free passage ticket from her brother in America, via Hamburg to New York. Her position was evidently envied.

CXLVIII.

HAMBURG, GERMANY, Nov. 5, 1858.

In the extreme north of Germany lies the grand duchy of Mecklenberg, a country less visited by travellers than most other parts of the Vaterland, whose institutions are peculiar to itself, and which is not included in the Zollverein, or Tariff Union. As it was the last of the German States I had not seen, I was desirous of visiting it. The lines of railroad from Frankfort-on-the-Oder, where I last wrote you, conveyed me to Schwerin, the capital of the Duchy.

It has a population of twenty thousand, and can boast of one of the finest schloss, or palaces in Deutschland. Wonders never cease. I was astonished to find this new Gothic edifice, which stands upon a small island, and upon which some millions have been expended, and could only wonder how in the nineteenth century the potentate of a small territory could gather together and expend such sums in extravagant construction. The saloons, halls, and dining-rooms, as well as bed-chambers, are luxuriously finished and furnished in modern style. A spiral staircase from the first floor to the upper apartments is of black marble, and the railing of bronze gold gilt. The church, or chapel, is richly decorated, and the windows are of stained glass. Several sentinels were under arms; permission was granted, for a fee, to inspect the whole premises, with the hot-houses, and obtain a fine view over the beautiful lake, reminding one of the sheets of water in the western part of our state.

The peasants are still attached to the soil, without the privilege of obtaining title for lands. The landholders own large estates, and are wealthy. The duties upon importations are light. This class of citizens can obtain at small cost all articles they require. The crown is possessed of an immense domain, which brings in large revenues, enabling the grand-ducal family to expend large sums without extorting from the land proprietors; but inquiry may be made, “who pays?” the answer naturally is, “the labor of the peasant.” Time will make a change. The downtrod workman, if he can raise the means, will find his way to America, and they will have to introduce hired cultivators from the neighboring countries, or abandon the system.

Rostock and Weimar are their sea-ports on the Baltic; the former has a population of twenty thousand, and is quite noted for its shipbuilding. I found many vessels lying in ordinary for want of employment, growing out of the commercial crisis, and but few on the stocks.

Mecklenberg not being a manufacturing state, and the wealthy land proprietors not being able to loan on home securities, turned their attention to interest in shipbuilding, and are groaning over their losses.

A horticultural, agricultural, and mechanical exhibition was being held, which was of interest. The farm implements were of a heavy character, and capable of much improvement. As in most German towns, the walks and promenades have received much attention. The old fortifications and ramparts have been planted with shade trees and flowers, and afford a delightful stroll for the inhabitants.

The Blucher square, or place, contains the bronze monument erected to the memory of the marshal, celebrated at Waterloo, who was born in Rostock, in 1743. The parks, grounds, and lakes in and about Schwerin are as lovely as could be desired; but the residence city, notwithstanding its arsenal, port, and other public buildings, has the air of a forced growth.

An hour’s ride by railroad brought me to this great commercial, free trade city, with its population of one hundred and sixty-five thousand.

The great fire of 1842, which burnt over seventy-one streets and squares, and destroyed nearly two thousand houses, was the cause of making the new city as beautiful as it now is, and one sees no traces of the great conflagration; but, on the contrary magnificent rows of tall, solidly constructed houses, public buildings, churches, exchange, immense hotels, of American internal arrangements, a number of which are situated upon the Alster Basin--a fine sheet of water, with broad avenues and sidewalks surrounding it. The streets of the old city are narrow, and paved with round cobble stones, dirty and dreary, making the contrast more striking. Almost continuous walks upon the site of the old walls surround the city, and are planted with shade trees and shrubbery. The view of the harbor and the Elbe, with its shipping, and the forests of masts, obtained from a height, is truly grand.

Hamburg being strictly a commercial city, and divested of the military parade, titles, orders, and the pomp of a court of monarchical cities, strikes an American coming from other parts of the continent, as being more like a Republican metropolis. The peculiar costume of the women water-carriers would be exceptional. Altona, in Holstein, belonging to Denmark, has almost grown into the city.

The gates are closed at night, and toll must be paid by every person passing, according to the lateness of the hour. The currency of the city is its peculiar kind--shilling, and mark Banco; the former worth two cents, and sixteen for mark. The traveller in Germany, in passing from one frontier to another, must dispose of the small coin of the country, which may be of no value after a few hours’ ride by the railway. A gentleman bound for Russia, whom I lately met in the cars, wished to purchase some fruit for his wife. He was on his way from Paris, did not speak German, and pulled out a handful of coin which he had received in change along the road, none of which would pass. The train was almost moving, and he was giving up in despair, when I came to the rescue. Mecklenberg, Denmark, and even Bremen change, is of little value here, although only separated by the frontier. A story is told of a Frenchman, who, starting on a tour through Germany and Italy, as an experiment put a twenty-franc gold piece in his vest pocket, changing the same into the currency of each country as he passed, and on his return found the entire sum had gone into the hands of the money-changers.

CXLIX.

HANOVER, GERMANY, Nov. 29, 1858.

I thought I had quite finished up my peregrinations in the north of Germany, but I found I had left unvisited parts of Schleswig Holstein, which, since the war of 1848, has occupied so much of the attention of German and Danish diplomats.

This country is populated mostly by Germans, and that language is generally spoken, but it is governed by Danish officers and the military, in as mild a form as possible; the ill-will and hatred of the inhabitants, however, is so great, that little social intercourse is kept up between them. The currency is Danish, but German coin passes for nearly its value, as the trade with Hamburg, and the direct communication by railroad with Kiel and Schleswig, keeps up the German influence, to the detriment of Copenhagen. After long delay, and bitter recriminations and threats, the Danish king has granted many concessions, and a constitution for self-representation. The people hope, and, with Germany, desire its union with the Vaterland; but the balance of power is such a delicate question in Europe, and the jealousy of governments towards each other so great, that the matter may be put off until, perhaps, a revolution brings a change. The quickest and easiest communication with Copenhagen is, via Kiel, by rail, a distance of seventy miles from Hamburg, where steamers are found in readiness for embarkation.

Every stranger that visits Hamburg, if time permits, should make an excursion in Holstein, if only to get a passing view of nature’s beauties, of picturesque lakes, meadows, and fields, with their hedges.

Were it not for the three gates, one would scarcely know he had left Hamburg in driving through the city of Altona, in Danish territory, to take the railroad for Kiel, as the two cities are nearly grown together.

Kiel has some fifteen thousand inhabitants. Its environs may be called beautiful. The forests of beech and other trees along the water’s edge, with bathing places, and some elevated points of view, make it a desirable summer residence. It evidently has much improved of late. The country mansions and gardens bear testimony of the fact. The fish market is abundantly supplied, and what is better, there is no duty, as is the case the moment the German frontier is crossed in the interior. Among the delicacies, in smoked articles, are the “Schnebel,” and large sized eels, which are exported in great quantities to the interior. The oysters used in Germany are mostly from the North Sea. They are much smaller than ours, and have not unfrequently a coppery flavor. Salmon and lobsters come mostly from Norway. Hamburg is celebrated for its basement rooms, or Kellers, where are found all the dainties that land and water furnish.

Kiel has its monuments, public buildings, and attractions, but nothing very striking to the general traveller. Its harbor is fine and deep, and here lay at anchor, near the shore, the entire fleet, at one period during the war with Russia.

The terminus of the railroad which leads to this city is at Harburg, the new rival of Hamburg, upon the Elbe, and only eight miles from the last-named place. When I was last there, in 1855, the inundation of the river had flooded the island of Wilhelmsburg, carrying away houses, cattle, and crops, and destroying millions of property in the lower part of the metropolis. Hundreds of persons were shelterless. We were aroused at midnight in the midst of a terrific rain storm, by the alarm guns warning the occupants of basements and one story dwellings, to save themselves from drowning. When we took the steamer for Harburg, in passing the island we saw only the tops of trees where now I pass in an omnibus, over a well cultivated country, with dusty roads, and the people complaining for want of rain.

A few miles below lies Stade, a small town of six thousand inhabitants, which gives the name to the Stade Zol, or imposition of the River Elbe dues, which our government is trying to induce the Hanoverian authorities to renounce.

Harburg has made much progress, and grown to be quite a city under the protection of the Hanoverian government, and favors in the way of duties and manufactures.

The route to this place is an uninteresting one, tying in part over the Luneburger Haide or Heath, which is without cultivation. I perceive, however, that advances are made in the way of irrigation, and it is pleasant to see entire waste lands, by the use of water, made to produce bountifully. It called to mind an experiment of a rice garden, and olive and almond trees, which Mehemet Ali produced upon the white sand of the Egyptian desert, by the use of the Persian wheel, driven by oxen; and it struck me that the Arabs regarded him little less than Deity.

Having formerly described what was of most interest in this city when I made it a temporary residence, I can only add that the population has increased, the city limits extended, and many new improvements have been made. The large cotton and carpet factories flourish in consequence of the great protection in the tariff. Rents and living expenses, as well as taxation, are increasing, but workmen are better paid than formerly, as the country was chiefly agricultural and there is now more demand for labor, growing out of the manufacturing.

The King, although blind, is building a new palace, and has just called upon the Stande or Chambers, for an appropriation of six hundred thousand thalers for the work, as far as completed.

A fair has been recently held here, which for a stranger is well worth seeing. One day only is allowed for the furniture sale, and it is held in a different part of the city. Every variety of household article is exposed for sale, brought in from small neighboring villages, which gives the poor a chance to buy cheap. It is curious to see the stream of wagons and carts, drawn not only by horses, oxen, and donkeys, but single cows and spaniel dogs in harness, the drivers cracking their whips. Now comes a load of countrywomen, in fancy colored short corsets and jupes, then the Bauer, or peasant, with his high-topped boots, long-tailed coat, and big bright buttons. The market-places were filled with booths and venders from other cities, with every variety of articles, attractive and for use; jewelry, wearing apparel, and pumpernickel, or honey cake, in great quantities, an indispensable article for the multitude. The good-natured country people, with their Platt Deutsch, or land dialect, seemed to have a good time of it, and the national dishes of sausage and saur kraut, with light beer and pipes, were in great demand.

Here in Hanover, and also in Celle, a town of ten thousand population, which I lately visited, the language spoken by the upper classes is the most pure in all Germany.

1859.

CL.

Berlin, February 23, 1859.

The great event of the season was the birth of a prince to the crown of Prussia, and the first grandchild of Queen Victoria. Demonstrations, congratulations, and addresses have been made to the royal parents by the Lord Mayor, and other dignitaries of London. The street upon which I live, leading to the Palace, was crowded with vehicles, containing the nobility, civil, and military officers in full uniform, advancing to the royal residence to inscribe and present themselves in honor of the happy event. Crowds of persons were standing upon the sidewalks for many days afterwards, gazing up at the windows and walls which inclose this precious jewel of a monarchical people. The students have since had their torchlight celebration for the occasion.

In these reverences and a thousand other ways, through titles and orders given to all persons of any distinction, wealth, or merit, is the aristocratic band so linked together, that the very children imbibe that love and respect and awe for the royal family till it seems engrafted in their very natures.

In political matters you are kept fully advised through the European journals. As I suggested in my last, things look ominous for the future. The money and commercial marts are still agitated, and uncertainty prevails. France continues steadily her military preparations; Sardinia the same. Austria is stubborn, and sends further supplies of troops into Italy. Diplomacy is hard at work to prevent a general European war, and, if the issue must come, to confine it to the Peninsula. A slight outbreak at the present moment would put all Europe in a blaze. The demand for saltpetre in the London markets, even from the smaller powers, and the prohibition of the sale of horses shows that they fear the result, and must be prepared, if not against the enemy, against their own people. Cannon foundries and manufactories of arms are in full blast in different countries.

The horrors of a European war, the destruction of life and property, the anguish of widows and orphans, the demoralization of invading armies, the cost of maintaining the same, and the entailment of debt, are not to be portrayed. Already Austria and Sardinia are in the market for loans, consequently there is a depreciation of the whole outstanding debt in the hands of the public.

Since I visited the Crimea I feel myself better able to judge of consequences. The ruined and battered fortresses and public and private edifices of Sebastopol, Kertch, and other points, the graveyards of the half million of souls of Inkerman, Alma, and the Malakoff, all testify to the melancholy results. However, the question of the whole Italian race, suffering under the bonds and chains of tyrants, cannot be longer delayed, and we shall probably soon know the decision. Either the evacuation by Austria of the Papal States, and the duchies of Modena and Parma, and abandonment of her tutelage, with a system of reform, or war, must be the result.

Some persons contend that war, like cholera, or other epidemics, in over-populated countries, is as necessary as a thunderstorm to clear a sultry and vitiated atmosphere, to sweep off a part of the redundant population, lessen competition, and give the survivors a chance to earn their bread. More humane means can be substituted in the favoring of emigration to the vast regions of unoccupied territory, not only in Europe, but in both Americas.

While all Europe is in uncertainty, America stands without anxiety, as a looker-on. In the event of a European war her breadstuffs would find a ready market. Capitalists, looking at the uncertain tenure of things here, would turn their attention to investments on the other side. Emigrants, to escape army duty and save what little they have from destruction, would take refuge in this land of liberty. Her Mexican and Cuban question could be settled without the interference of foreign powers, who would have occupation at home.

Our Treasury it seems is exhausted, and loans are made in time of peace. We pay our President twenty-five thousand dollars a year. I notice the French Senate have granted Prince Napoleon eight hundred thousand francs, or one hundred and sixty thousand dollars, as expenses for his marriage to the daughter of Sardinia’s king, and two million francs, or four hundred thousand dollars yearly. In the event of widowhood she is to have forty thousand dollars, our currency, and a palace to her use. All that for a cousin of the Emperor. What would our honest yeomanry think of such outgoes with us, which are mostly made up by indirect taxation upon each and every article consumed by rich and poor?

Yesterday we celebrated the birthday of Washington at a splendid dinner given by our minister, at which assisted some sixty persons of both sexes--Americans residing in or passing through Berlin, naturalized Germans, Consuls and Senators from Bremen, Stettin, &c. Baron Humboldt sat vis-à-vis with Gov. Wright under the folds of the American flag. Toasts and speeches, as customary on such occasions, were made, and all passed off to the satisfaction of guests. Some fifteen or more of our states were represented, and were called upon for a sentiment or a toast, which, under the exhilarating influence of champagne, was generally well responded to, and brought forth some amusing and historical reminiscences of the American revolution. Portraits of the Father of his country, of Humboldt, Webster, and others, and the beautiful engraving of Washington crossing the Delaware, were suspended from the wall. An artist gave a toast which was rather a strong one in a monarchical government, and in a less enlightened age perhaps we would not have had the privilege of meeting together to commemorate the birthday of a republican victor; it was to “Humboldt, the King of Science, whose shoes most kings are not worthy to unloose.” The venerable old man is now in his ninetieth year; he is fond of ladies’ society, who adore him as a traveller and writer. He has remained a bachelor. His memory is fresh and vigorous; I asked him if he recollected my presentation by Gov. Vroome, some four years since, and the conversation about the island of Ceylon. “Yes,” replied he briefly, “and Singapore also,” and then recounted information derived from other sources since.

CLI.

FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAINE, GERMANY, March 22, 1859.

I left the agreeable city of Berlin with mingled feelings of regret and pleasure. To get rid of an obstinate attack of bronchitis when all other remedies fail, my usual course is change of climate, and I put myself on the road for Dresden, the Saxon capital, as well as the business city of Leipzig, which I next touched. I had visited it before on different occasions and described it to you, and it offered but little new.

I thought I had seen the thirty-two empires, kingdoms, duchies, landgraves, and other imperial, royal, and ducal residences of Germany, but recollected an unexplored tract through the Erzhogthum of Weimar, and of Gotha and Coburg, the latter duchies celebrated as furnishing husbands for most of the Princesses of Europe, Prince Albert of England being one of the number. As I was at a loss to know what route to take for a change in such an emergency the smallest favors are thankfully received.

It is really curious and interesting to look into these little Dutch settlements, and scrutinize the efforts made by these pigmy potentates to imitate the regal residences of great sovereigns, as I once described to you, from Port au Prince, Island of Hayti, that the guards and cannon at the entrance of the Imperial gates of the black despot looked as formidable as those of the Emperor of Russia. But the people have there wrought a change, and Soulouque is a wanderer. In time similar changes will take place in Germany.

The towns of Jena and Nuremburg, and the battle-fields of 1806, with the bivouac of Napoleon upon the height called Landgrafberge, are all of much historical interest. The town of Weimar has thirteen thousand inhabitants, and lies upon the slope of a beautiful valley, through which runs a limpid stream. On the opposite side are elevated commanding grounds, upon which stands a new caserne containing an entire regiment of one thousand men. The town appears neat, is well paved, and has the air of a regal seat, without much trade or commerce, where the residents are in part dependent on the government, or persons whose means allow them to enjoy the advantages of such facilities as cannot be obtained in the small villages or upon the land.

The large and beautiful palace contains rooms with fresco paintings consecrated to the poets Goethe, Schiller, Herder, and Wieland, who were patronized by the then existing duke. The summer cottage of Goethe, vis-à-vis to a rustic resort of the duke, in the wood, is still in the possession of the poet’s family. At twelve A.M., the band played before the palace. A Greek chapel is found here, as well as in several German courts, in consequence of Russian marriages. The mother of the present duke is sister of the ex-emperor Nicholas. So you perceive how the family alliances are calculated to divide political influences in the Fatherland. The library has one hundred and fifty thousand volumes, also a good collection of medallions and objects of art. A fine large theatre is supported. The park is prettily laid out with rich and rare plants, hot-houses, and a summer palace for the duke. All these and much more might be added from a little domain of three hundred thousand inhabitants, about one-third that of New York and Brooklyn, with a salary of two hundred and eighty thousand thalers, say two hundred and twenty thousand dollars our currency. Horses, carriages, liveried servants must be kept up, three thousand troops entertained, and--who pays? These princes have generally large land incomes in addition to salary, and in this case Russia contributes a portion.

The territory of Gotha and Coburg is smaller. The population of Gotha is one hundred and twenty thousand, Coburg forty thousand, making one hundred and sixty thousand in all. The town of Gotha has fifteen thousand inhabitants, and is beautifully situated upon a side hill, with water running through all the streets. The new part looks well, but the old dull, and not so fine as Weimar. The Schloss or palace stands upon a high hill called Hochberg, and is of quadrangular form, some four hundred feet or more in extent, with a high tower. The grounds are extensive, and the terrace is compared by some to that of Windsor in England. The view is very extensive. The alleys and public walks around the little city are strikingly beautiful. There are several other palaces and summer residences belonging to the Duchy, a library of one hundred and sixty thousand volumes, a collection of coins consisting of some forty thousand pieces, a Chinese cabinet, galleries of pictures, copperplates, etc. One naturally wonders where and how such collections and public buildings have been put together and paid for, and by whom. The theatre is a fine building, and a regular company is kept up.

The Duke receives one hundred and forty thousand thalers from the land yearly, say one hundred and five thousand dollars our currency. He was absent with his wife in Berlin at the christening of the infant Prince of Victoria, whose mother is his niece, the daughter of Prince Albert. He has no family, and at his death Gotha and Coburg fall to Prince Alfred, the second son of England’s sovereign, who is now in the navy. The present Duke is a soldier, and lives in a small palace, like a sensible man, and is esteemed by his people. The army contingent is sixteen hundred troops. All these things are very pretty to gaze upon, and quite attractive to travellers who look only upon the surface, but talk with the people a little and get their views.

The manufacturing of lucifer matches has become a heavy business for exportation. You can scarcely believe it that in this unhealthy occupation girls are employed at three and a half silver-groschen, or nine cents, per day, whose food consists of potatoes and rye meal cooked together, who scarcely know what it is to get a piece of meat. In Erfurt, an old city of thirty thousand inhabitants, where nothing of interest offered except the cathedral, dome, and the fortifications, I mounted the steeple for a view and to look at a bell of great weight, here considered a wonder, and called the Maria Gloriosa. I asked the girl who conducted us if she had ever heard of the Moscow bell, which is really of monstrous size. She did not even know the name. I inquired if many visitors came, and what she earned. She replied the sexton paid her twelve thalers the quarter year, or thirty-six dollars our currency, yearly. The gifts of visitors she must hand over, or they would be taken from her. One cannot but pity such objects. I then said I will pay the sexton and what we give is extra for your use. People complain of untrusty servants, of peculations and unjust reckonings in short weights, etc. I tell them it is their own fault; they have driven them to dishonesty by low wages, which makes slavery on the plantation a preferable position.

My next halting-place was Hesse Cassel, from whence the English imported troops to fight against us in the revolution. I saw a review of the Gross Furst, or Elector. He has a passion for military. The country has nine thousand soldiers, but in case of war the number demanded by the German confederation is twelve thousand. The people are not satisfied with their elector. His salary is eight hundred thousand thalers. He has a large family, and his wife was the daughter of a hotel-keeper, consequently his children cannot occupy his place, and it is said instead of spending his money at home for the good of the people, it is sent to England, or used, in the purchase of estates in Bohemia, for the future provision of his heirs.

I have twice before visited Cassel, and described to you its position, its suburbs of Wilhelmshohe, the great artificial cascades and fountains, and other gigantic works executed with English gold received for the sale of Hessian soldiers.

I have said nothing about politics. The excitement in Germany has been great, but no unity of action. The Austrian papers lash Prussia for her neutral policy. The attacked journals reply that they are ready to defend the interests of the Fatherland, but unwilling to assist in the perpetuation of tyranny in Italy, and in the total want of religious toleration in Austria. The brochures, or pamphlets, in Paris, advising the conquest of the Rhine provinces, have done more to wake up the German population than anything else.

CLII.

FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAINE, GERMANY, April 22, 1859.

The free city of Frankfort is historically known since the eighth century. It is the seat of the Deutsche Bund, or German Confederation. In the old Roman Hall in the Rathhouse, or City Hall, where the German emperors and kings were chosen, the full length portraits, in costume, of the entire line are exhibited. In the Dom Kirche, or cathedral, is found the monument to the memory of Kaiser (or Emperor) Gunther, of Schwarzberg, dated in the year 1352; also the tombstone, under date of 1371, of the Ritter, or knight Rudolph, of Sachsenhausen, which little town lies on the opposite side of the river Maine, connected by a stone bridge twelve hundred and sixty feet long and thirty-three feet wide, resting upon fourteen arches.

Strolling through the settlement the other day I found the streets narrow, the town surrounded by a wall, the egress by the same gates through which one goes in, and the language of the people almost unintelligible and quite different from those who come in contact with the world where pure German is spoken.

Last Sunday I found myself in the Protestant, St. Paul’s, Church, consecrated in 1833, on the site of the old Roman Barfusse Kirche. It is in an elliptical form, built of square freestone blocks. While listening to the tones of the immense organ, my mind was carried back involuntarily to the events of 1848, when I had seen this edifice used for the General Assembly of nine hundred delegates, presided over by the Grand Duke Johan of Austria, whom it was proposed to elect emperor of all Germany. The torchlight and window illuminations of the city upon his arrival was a striking feature, but it was all a flash in the pan--an entire failure. The revolution was soon over. Austria had gained the battle of Novara over Sardinia, and reinstated her power. France was again quiet. The kings of Europe, who had in the presence of the enraged masses promised constitutions and all else required, soon found the people themselves disunited, and began to contract their strength and forces, and finally refused to perform any of the acts named.

The central position of this city gives it a decided advantage for trade and commerce. The activity of the eighty thousand inhabitants is striking in comparison with the ducal residence of Darmstadt, an hour’s ride by railway, with its long broad streets and population of thirty thousand, but looking dull and dreary as a village. The railroad in an hour conveys one to Wiesbaden, in a half hour to Mayence, and in an hour’s ride by omnibus and rail one arrives at Homburg.

The baths of the first and last-named places are now open for the season, but it is too early for many guests. On festival days they are full, and the sums of gold lost and won upon roulette and trente et quarante are scarcely credible. A Russian nobleman attracted the attention of the numerous bystanders recently, as he used only gold and one thousand franc bank notes, a pile of which he had before him, and won and lost equal to one thousand dollars, our currency, upon the turn of the wheel--now reducing his capital, and then increasing. The bank of Wiesbaden paid its shareholders thirty-one per cent. dividend the last year, after expending fabulous sums in the embellishment of the gardens, fountains, magnificent Kursaal, and reading rooms; and after giving semi-weekly balls, hunting parties at the close of the season, &c., &c., besides paying to the Duke of Nassau a large annual sum for the privilege of fleecing the public. It is an interesting study to see how these things are managed at Homburg and Wiesbaden. In addition to the immense expenses for laying out and beautifying the grounds with trees and flowering plants, the best restaurateur from Paris is employed to furnish a table d’hôte in the superb ornamental gilded and frescoed dining hall at a moderate price, thereby attracting strangers. The omnibus line receives a portion of the fare from the bank, making it easier accessible. The entrance to the reunions is gratis. Musicians, and even the police taxes, and other charges upon passports are paid at the expiration of the season by the company. Many families spend the winter at Homburg, where the bank is kept open the entire year, and they enjoy without charge the use of reading-rooms, with papers and periodicals in all modern languages. The managers, however, calculate adroitly upon the general average. If the father or mother do not play, the son or daughter, or friends perhaps will, and they can extricate so much gain per head on the average. Ladies are not free from the vice, large and small sums being risked by the fair sex. The bank even employs them for that purpose as a decoy. The Landgrave, or petty prince of this piece of land, about the size of one of our small counties, receives a handsome annuity.

The system is immoral and wicked, and ruins many families; but as long as Germany remains disunited, cannot be suppressed. At the close of the last business season at Wiesbaden, there were, I learn, as usual, many who had lost all, and could not get away. The bank in such cases advances the means, takes a note or draft for the same, and if not paid, the party does not return, consequently it is clear of them, and don’t incur the odium of suicides through despair.

The old town of Frankfort, with its narrow, tortuous streets, gabled-end projecting houses full of windows, is curious. Outside the walls surrounding the city are magnificent shady walks, highly ornamented with shrubbery and plants. The season is forward, and the trees in full bloom add to the beauty of the promenades. The suburbs are well laid out with broad streets and superb houses, occupied by the wealthy. It has become a favorite residence for strangers, being so central, and in connexion with so many attractive watering-places and cities.

The Jews are here very numerous. Many of them are bankers, at the head of which is the original house of Rothschilds. In the same neighborhood has recently been erected an immense freestone synagogue.

In the Burger Verein, or Citizens’ Club, an institution established on an extensive scale, I find among other correspondence some of our New York papers.

Frankfort and Leipzic are celebrated in Europe for their fairs. Two are held here yearly. The Oester Messe, or Easter Fair, now exists, and lasts three weeks. The quay along the River Maine and the public squares are occupied with booths filled with wares from all parts of the country. The concourse of merchants and buyers from neighboring towns gives activity to the place. Of course amusements are provided for guests, and America comes in for a part. There is an immense circus from Berlin, in which Jas. Robinson, the most celebrated bareback rider in the world, is employed, making his summersets over star-spangled flags and ribbons, backwards and forwards, with the agility of a cat. Bands of volunteer musicians from other cities, and Tyrolese minstrels, find themselves here, who make the rounds, and whose notes are heard from morn until late in the night, and who adopt this method of picking up the crumbs. The theatre is crowded; the flying horse machines and puppet shows please the children; gaping crowds are listening to the marvellous tales of outcriers at the entrance of travelling menageries, museums, camera obscuras, and of the fat girl nineteen years old, weighing six hundred pounds; the railroads profit by freight and traffic, and lager beer, sausages, and cheese are in the ascendant.

The political situation of Europe exerts a baneful influence upon all general trade. The complaint on all hands is prostration of business. The game of chess now playing between France and Austria is discouraging to all classes. They would prefer open hostilities to indecision. The belligerent parties have gone so far that we must soon see the bloody sword of war, or the olive branch of peace.

CLIII.

PARIS, May 24, 1859.

I find myself once again in the great European capital. It is now a month since you heard from me last at Frankfort, Germany. I then left for Baden-Baden soon after the opening of the season. I never saw the country look more smiling and lovely. Nature had put on her most beautiful spring attire, and indeed nothing in Europe can surpass the natural scenery of the suburbs of this renowned watering-place.

The little city was brushed up as usual, and every hotel and lodging-house awaiting anxiously the arrival of guests, but in this I fear they will be woefully disappointed this year. The anxieties and financial difficulties growing out of the war, and the bitter feeling manifested by Germany towards the French, will prevent the usual rush of visitors. Few persons were there, and the magnificent gas-lighted saloons, with their bands of music, had few occupants. The employees of the gambling tables looked wistfully at every stranger, hoping their business will soon commence.

The past month has been full of exciting events. Austria has renounced negotiation. The war decree has gone forth. Sardinia has been invaded. The French Emperor with his troops has been called upon for relief. Austria is intriguing and stimulating the German powers to unite with her in fortifying the Rhine. The German press was most violent against the French Emperor, giving him the most opprobrious names and calling it a war of conquest. Austrian securities have fallen from eighty-five to thirty-eight. Frankfort held some fifty million florins of that national paper. The war loan was rejected and Austria made an arrangement with the National Bank, which only last year resumed specie payments, to grant a loan of a hundred millions in small circulating notes, making the same a legal tender. Up went the price of specie. The bankers and commercial classes suffered, and large failures occurred. Commerce and trade were paralysed. I met two Hungarians, who were leaving for the United States, who were fortunate enough to obtain specie at a loss of thirty-five per cent, against paper. This stubborn act of Austria lost her the sympathies of Europe, excepting the small German states, Bavaria, Wirtemburg, Hesse Cassel, Baden &c., some of whom are connected by family ties. Prussia has stood and still stands firm in resisting the warlike disposition of the small states of the confederation, observing an armed neutrality until the real interests of Germany proper are attacked.

The French people who opposed the war are now almost universally in its favor. The triumphal departure of the Emperor, his reception in Piedmont, the subscription to the French loan of more than four times the amount, justifies this belief. The report of a secret alliance between Russia and France, and the advancement of a corps of observation upon the Austrian and Prussian frontier, caused great consternation on the continent. The English funds fell five or six per cent., and many dealers and brokers were ruined by the panic which ensued. The Tory cabinet was denounced by the English. The report proved untrue. Then came the declaration of neutrality by England.

War declared, the French army were transported south by rail, and then crossed the Alps, while other regiments went by steamers on the Mediterranean to Genoa. The departure of the troops, the enthusiasm of the populace, the martial display and equipage of war has kept up a lively interest. The reports of the first battle and victory of Montebello are received, and we are anxiously waiting the news of further engagements. The national guard are the protectors of the city, and few regular troops are seen, which is another evidence of the popularity of the war of Italian independence.

France is engaged in a righteous cause in effecting the liberation of Italy from the yoke of tyranny and bondage of Austria. Having passed so much time in Italy, I may be permitted to judge of the hatred of foreign domination.

Sardinia was worthy of assistance, being the only really liberal and free government in the south of Europe. The Emperor, sagacious as he is, wanted the Italian question settled; and through the proposal of Russia for a congress, in which Austria dared not show her hand, he brought the matter to a focus. The occupation of the army, the glory of France at the head of European civilization, and the confirmation of the dynasty were needed. All these things had their influence. Austria was put in a false position. The result is war, and if confined to Italy good may grow out of it. If Germany attacks France on the Rhine, then the war becomes general; but the French government and press are doing everything possible to suppress such a move. The public journals are now unanimous in favor of Italian liberty, and the war cry is, down with the Austrians, and their expulsion from the shores of the Adriatic.

Last year this time I was riding and walking over the battle-grounds and fields of Alma, Inkerman, Kamiesch, Eupatoria, and Kertsch, where half a million lie buried, and probably some curious tourists among the number.

The death of the king of Naples has delivered that beautiful land of a tyrant. Probably the neutrality of the young king may be accepted. He is a cousin of Victor Emanuel, king of Sardinia, but the queen mother is the second wife of the deceased king, and of the house of Austria. She has been intriguing for the accession to the throne of her eldest son, and troubles are expected.

Strangers are getting away by small steamers in crowds, without comfort or accommodation. The war will make it very inconvenient for travellers. The Lloyd steamers in the Levant are withdrawn to the neutral harbor of Malta. The French have already blockaded the ports of the Adriatic and taken many Austrian prizes. I am thankful I have nothing undone in that direction, and can remain a neutral spectator.

1860.

CLIV.

TETUAN, COAST OF MOROCCO, AFRICA, February 15, 1860.

After a short sojourn in the French capital, I took the rail for Marseilles. The distance of five hundred miles we made in twenty hours, in comfortable cars, warmed by shallow metallic vessels filled with hot water, and placed under the feet. This was even shorter time than two years since, when I passed over the same road to embark for Algeria.

It is now nearly four months since the declaration of war on the part of the Spaniards, who at vast expense have landed an army of thirty-five thousand men upon the coast of Morocco. Tangiers being well fortified, although blockaded, they could only land at Ceuta, a point occupied by them for convicts. A distance of six leagues then had to be made by land along the coast to the small river Tetuan, where they encamped in presence of the Moors, who occupied the heights and the city of Tetuan, which is upon an eminence six miles from the coast. A great battle was fought, and finally the city was besieged. The Moors in great numbers occupied the heights, and coming down in masses from the mountains headed by the brothers of the emperor of Morocco, harassed and attacked the Spaniards. They were, however, dislodged and cut up by the latter, who report in killed and wounded two thousand of the enemy and two hundred of their own; but verbal reports here say they lost one thousand in killed and wounded. The latter were sent away immediately to the hospitals of Malaga and Cadiz. Finding resistance useless, orders were given to evacuate the city, and the Moors fled in every direction in the mountains, but the Jews, a much oppressed race, remain, as also do the old and disabled Moors.

The city, which contained a population of some thirty thousand, now presents a strange aspect, the narrow streets being filled with soldiery, mules, and donkeys. The Jews have suffered much from pillage at the hands of the Moors and Kabyles of the Riff, who are not unlike their pirate associates, and the doors of a great number of houses are still seen broken open by these marauders, who regarded neither friend nor foe. The Israelites are rejoiced at the result, as such was the intolerance of the Mussulmans that they were obliged to take off their shoes in approaching a mosque.

Subscriptions have been made in different countries for the Jews who are at Gibraltar, who have been obliged to abandon the ports of Morocco. An agent has just arrived here with supplies for the sufferers in Tetuan, who stand much in need.

I scarcely know how to describe the singular scene that presents itself. On entering the roadstead I counted some forty-five steamers of different nations, including several Spanish war vessels, besides a large number of small sailing vessels, also several tugs for the purpose of discharging and towing, while feluccas, scows, and small boats loaded with merchandise and munitions of war were scattered about in the mouth of the river to the landing place near the square tower or citadel. The beach and quays are covered with cannon, bombs, balls, wheels for mounting, scores of pipes of red wine, boxes, bales and packages of all kinds for the supply of the army, and for venders and speculators in and around the different camps.

The first camp presented itself near the shore, quite in repose. Horses, mules, and donkeys were feeding. The soldiers were preparing their dinner over little fires of sticks, and from the little tents of the Spanish venders were heard the cries of oranges, cigars, liquors, and every conceivable article which can be disposed of to the troops. A temporary fort had been thrown up of earthwork and the branches of the cactus, which attains the height of a small tree in this climate, and cannon were planted at the angles and other openings to prevent surprise. Little tents for the soldiery, for six each, were spread upon the ground; those of the officers are of larger dimensions, and more comfortable.

As we proceeded further, martial music was heard in the distance, and an army of horsemen with lances came up followed by infantry and cavalry. Four thousand fresh troops had just arrived, and the road was lined with mules and horses, already jaded out with hard service, carrying provisions to the camps. Here and there was lying a poor animal who had drawn his last breath, while disabled Moorish cannon and balls were scattered about.

To the right and left the encampments were seen, and the music of bands was heard, mingling with the national airs of the Spanish soldiers, who appear happy, notwithstanding the fatigue of the campaign in an enemy’s country during a rainy season, with the accompaniment of cholera, which has cost the lives of many thousands. The weather is now, however, dry, and favorable to the health of the troops.

The orange gardens, with the olive and other trees, look fresh in the valleys, which extend for miles around, and the well whitewashed walls of the city glisten in the sun’s rays, so that one who was not familiar with Mussulman cities and structures would imagine its contents beautiful. The camp of Gen. O’Donnell is placed upon a plateau near the entrance, and over the fortified archway is already inscribed “Puerta de la Reyna,” or Queen’s Gate.

As soon as the entrance is effected, one finds the streets narrow and dirty. The houses are one and two stories high, with small courts in the centre and lodging rooms above. Fountains abound, as in all Moorish cities, for the washing of the feet of the faithful before entering the mosques. The principal mosque upon the great square is already occupied by the cross, and the burning wax candles beside the Virgin, in singular contrast with the suspended ostrich eggs usual in Mussulman temples.

Scarcely any accommodations can be found for strangers at any price, and such as can be found at enormous prices, remind me of California in its early days. Fortunately our steamer is supplied with all the comforts and conveniences, and we may go and come when we please.

The presumption is that the Moors will now sue for peace, which Spain will probably be glad to accept, as it will be difficult to penetrate a country where several millions of barbarians are found. If report tells the truth, the resources of the Emperor of Morocco in treasure are enormous, the result of hoarding from his ancestry down, and if the Spaniards can extract a few millions towards the expenses of the war, they will relieve themselves of a heavy burden, and put an amount of gold and silver in circulation now lying idle.

The Spaniards have landed already rails and ties for a short railroad for the transport of heavy war material to the city. They have also commenced a telegraph, probably for communication with Madrid, or to give the Moors an idea of European civilization. It struck me as curious that they should do in Africa what they have been so backward in accomplishing in their own country.

CLV.

MOGADORE, COAST OF MOROCCO, February 29, 1860.

My last from Tetuan, informed you of its occupation by the Spaniards and the flight of the Moors, which has created the greatest burst of enthusiasm and national feeling throughout Spain; and if we can judge from the Spanish journals, which are filled with the events and incidents of the war, the praises of the army are being sung in all parts of Spain.

Gen. O’Donnell has been created Duke of Tetuan. Report says the Emperor of Morocco has sued for peace, and the Queen’s counsellors have demanded the permanent possession of Tetuan and twenty millions of dollars in part payment of the expenses of the war. It now remains to be seen if the Emperor will accede to the proposition.

Our steamer received orders to discharge her cargo at Gibraltar, where I took up my quarters at the hotel for a few days. Having visited this strongly fortified key of the straits twice before, and once described it to you, I will only add that no practical changes have taken place. The garrison of six thousand well-equipped and well-disciplined troops is kept up. Only a portion of the English and French fleet, which were sent here when the war broke out, now remain in the bay. The gates of the city, which inclose twenty thousand souls, including troops, are closed at sundown and opened at sunrise. A permit is granted for visitors who are not lodged in the city, which is good till the evening; but a longer sojourn requires application at the police. There the steamers coal which are bound up the Mediterranean, and to England and Portugal. The supplies are drawn from Spain or the coast of Morocco, and vessels from different sources. The natives, by derision, are called Rock Scorpions, and are mostly Jews and Spaniards. The Spanish is commonly spoken, although the schools are in part English. The streets are kept neat and clean. The houses rise one above another, like the sides of an amphitheatre, to a great height, and the ascent requires considerable climbing.

On the summit of the rock, with its frowning batteries and tunnelled galleries, with cannon pointing in all directions, is seen the telegraph; and by it, in the brush and scrubby trees, are monkeys grinning and climbing, the only representatives of the race in Europe, and who would have been extinct long since did not heavy penalties prevent it. On the African side, the mountains are infested with them.

The carnival season was being enjoyed by the masqueraders, but the balls and costumes were rather sorry affairs in comparison with those of Madrid, and other large cities of Spain.

Gibraltar is a free port, and gives employment to merchants and traders, who are celebrated for their sharp and acute transactions. The captains of vessels whom I met, who had put in for repairs or in distress, say they are worse than Key West wreckers. Smuggling and contraband trade with Spain has fallen off, however, with lower duties and the close of civil wars.

The weather was cool for the season. Snow was seen upon the African mountains, and bad reports of cholera came in from Tetuan; large numbers were dying among troops and residents. I had seen sufficient evidence of its existence, and concluded it was safest to be out of the district.

The American gunboat Iroquois came into Gibraltar and took our consul, Mr. Brown, to Tangiers, being the first consular return to Morocco since the war began, when those of all nations, with their families, decamped, and all the subjects of foreign governments who could, did likewise. The only consul in the whole of Morocco who remained, was the English, Mr. Hay, at Tangiers, who received express orders, and was protected by war vessels from Gibraltar, that port being considered blockaded.

Finding our steamer was going all along the Moorish coast, and thence to the Canary Islands, I concluded to embark. Our first stopping place was in thirty-six hours, at Casa Blanca, where we landed the French and Portuguese consuls, who were old residents, but, like all others, had abandoned their posts, fearing the fanaticism of the Moors, and the loss of their heads, as the wild Arabs don’t distinguish among Christians as to what race they belong. We remained a day. The Moors had heard of the taking of Tetuan, and were uneasy, and less sanguine. These two gentlemen we left, but the thought was painful, that they were running the risk of losing their lives in their own houses.

We next proceeded to Mazagan, an old fortified city of six thousand inhabitants. It is of square form, with strong walls and ramparts, situated upon an iron-bound coast. It was built some centuries since by the Portuguese, who protected it by cannon on the land side as well as the sea, and occupied it for a long time during the height of the commercial prosperity of Portugal. At length, from the encroachments of the Moors, however, they were obliged to abandon it. Before leaving, they mined it in every direction, and then by stipulation removed their population and supplies. The keys of the city having been given up, the wild Arabs rushed in, and filled up the deserted streets and houses. While looking for booty, a doubloon was discovered, and eagerly seized, which was attached by a thread to a concealed pistol, which exploded the mine, and blew up the greater part of the city, causing great destruction of life, and satisfying the vengeance of the Portuguese.

The old subterranean cisterns, or reservoirs, still exist, and are worthy of their authors, reminding one of the old Roman and Carthaginian masonry. The city is now mostly of one story buildings, with flat roofs, except consular and a few other private houses and magazines. Europeans make themselves as comfortable as possible amidst the filth which prevails ankle-deep in the narrow streets, and smells, badly suited to the olfactories, from dead dogs and cats. The English consul being absent, I noticed a dead donkey lying near his house. Himself and his colleagues had all fled the country, and cleanliness was out of the question.

The Jews from all these points along the coast had been removed, or made their escape as far as possible. Outside the walls of Gibraltar, I saw some five hundred tents, furnished by the English government, where about thirty-five hundred had congregated, and some eighteen hundred still remained. The government had given rations daily, and the French government made liberal allowances for such subjects as were under the protection of its consuls. It was a curious sight, reminding one of the descriptions of the camp of Israel. Men, women, and children, in the African Jewish costume, were performing the culinary operations of the separate households. The canvas streets had their names. The ground floors were whitewashed, or limed against infection. English sentries were on patrol, and all well regulated.

The country about Casa Blanca and Mazagan is fertile, but badly cultivated, and produces wheat and barley of excellent quality. Cattle, sheep, horses, and donkeys are kept, but the camel is the principal beast of burden. The export of horses is prohibited; other animals pay a considerable head tax. Poultry and eggs are abundant and cheap; gum, wool, and grain were the chief articles of export before the war.

We left two European merchants who had their houses there, and proceeded to this place, Mogadore, the farthest point on the Morocco coast, at which a steamer lands, and which is the chief city for the trade of the capital, Morocco, that lies one hundred and ten miles in the interior.

This is, for a Moorish city, strongly built, and is surrounded with walls. The houses are one or two stories high, and well whitewashed. The bastions and fortifications are upon a rocky shore. The small island of Mogadore forms a breakwater against the northerly storms; but like all African harbors, this is only a roadstead. The vicinity consists of desert for some miles, and then agricultural and grazing country. The town is dry and clean, reminding me of Tripoli, on the Barbary coast, for cleanliness, as Mazagan and Casa Blanca compare with Tunis for filth.

The sight of a steamer, being the first for six weeks, brought the whole population out. The walls and battlements were crowded with Arabs from the country, there being twelve hundred who had come in to protect the city from an expected attack of the Spaniards. The long white woollen mantles, or cloaks, and red caps, covering their swarthy bodies, the natural growth of black beard, and the long carabines, presented a strange aspect, as they looked grim and surly upon the Christians, and wondered what business we had there.

The women, with their heads covered with white veils, and feet with yellow boots, looked slyly at us out of one or both eyes, or were peeping through the blinds as the strangers passed.

Here we have a Jewish quarter, also, which is locked at night. The daughters of Israel are very fair, and some of them beautiful; they don’t hide their faces like the Moorish women. Some disorders had occurred, and some of their houses been broken open and pillaged, for which they had no redress, as all foreign consuls were absent.

The climate here is delightful, being from seventy to seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit, and never varying more than ten degrees throughout the year.

One of our passengers, an English merchant long in this country, had left his house in possession of a trusty Moor, and found all satisfactory. Indeed, the residents among the Moors have more to apprehend from pillage on the part of the wild hordes of the country, than from those of the city. My friend, at whose house I am, will not remain, although he speaks Arabic, but will go on to the Canary Islands with us, with the intention of returning when the war is over. Another of our passengers, a merchant, who was born in a Mohammedan city, will remain and take his chance.

No sooner had we landed than we were surrounded and followed by groups of friends and listeners, who followed close on our heels to the house, which was closed by main force to prevent intrusion. Soon after, the familiar and monotonous songs of the Arabs, accompanied by primitive violins, reached my ears from the gallery. There sat five musicians, whose music and song was spiced from time to time with a peculiar howl or whistle from two blind women, which I at first took for the escape of steam from the steamer.

To my surprise the health officer, when he came off, spoke English and French. He looks the Moor in costume, with his patriarchal white beard, and is now seventy-six years of age. I have been to his house to-day, and found him squatted, legs crossed, upon a divan, taking his repast of tea, instead of coffee, with oranges, dates, raisins, pomegranates, and a liquor which he offered us, made from figs, from his little table about two feet high. His father was an Englishman and his mother a Spanish woman. He has been forty-six years in Morocco, having come as interpreter to an English gentleman who wanted to travel in the interior, and was there murdered. His speaking Arabic saved him from the same fate. When the war broke out he sent his family to Gibraltar, and is now quite alone.

CLVI.

BATHURST, RIVER GAMBIA, WEST COAST OF AFRICA, March 10, 1860.

From Mogadore we proceeded to the island of Lancerota, one of the group of Canary Islands, landing and spending part of a day at the principal town, Arecife, whence the island of Forteventura is in plain view.

The product of these islands, since the failure of the grape crop, consists mostly of cochineal, as the salubrity and uniformity of the climate are admirably adapted to the raising of the cactus plant upon which the insect feeds. The principal islands, Lancerota, Teneriffe, Gomera, and Palma, contain some one hundred and eighty thousand population.

My immediate destination was Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe, the capital of the Canary Islands, and the seat of the Spanish Governor. The approach to the well whitewashed town, with its large roadstead, backed by high mountains of hard basalt and soft pumice stone, of which it is built, is very picturesque. In the distance looms up the Peak of Teneriffe, said to be fifteen thousand feet high. The atmosphere was clear and soft, and overcoats and cloaks were no longer needed. They have had an unusually wet season, and apprehend a loss from excess of humidity in a climate where it rains usually so little.

Here I found several Germans, who had spent most of the winter in Madeira, four degrees further north, and give the preference to this climate. The accommodations, apartments, and society I have found better there than here.

The town is clean and well paved, with good roads, and a fair hotel. The island is evidently volcanic, as the wild and irregular masses of rock around the town testify.

Camels are here used as beasts of burden, showing conclusively they can be employed over similar roads on the overland routes in the United States, as well as on the sands of the desert.

My intention was, if I arrived in time at Santa Cruz, which I had before visited some years since, to take the West African Coast steamer for the Gambia river, and from thence down to Sierra Leone. In this I was not disappointed; after a few days’ delay I embarked. The steamer from Fernando Po, on her return touched at all the ports along the Grain, Ivory, and Gold Coasts of Guinea, and several passengers were landed and lodged at our hotel. They reported the season as being most favorable for a visit; the fevers, which had desolated the settlements, existed no longer: but their yellow and jaundiced appearance was not encouraging for the traveller. Having been so much in tropical climates, and having had much experience in fevers, I hope to pass unscathed.

On board of the good screw steamer Athenian, with favorable breezes and increasing heat, in four days we made Bathurst, near the mouth of the Gambia River, one thousand miles from Teneriffe. The approach to this English colony up the broad serpentine river is directed by a negro pilot.

The public and private buildings are well and substantially built. The beach on one side is sandy, and the tide leaves a road bed for equestrians at the ebb. The date, mango, and other tropical trees give the place a picturesque appearance. The garrison is composed of English officers, and native black soldiery. The epidemic has made sad work among the whites; out of seventy-one, twenty-one died.

The negro population is upwards of five thousand, who live in reed huts, upon streets laid out at right angles, the different tribes in their respective quarters. They present a curious sight for the European, a fair proportion requiring only the garments of our first parents, Adam and Eve. Mothers carry their young, not unlike the squaws of our Indian tribes, upon their backs, but with this difference, that the little black urchin is nestled in the folds of a cotton shawl or girdle around the waist, the child being in the hollow of the back. The little boys and girls instead of clothing are supplied with strings of beads and amulets, as ornaments, and to keep away the evil spirit.

The river is navigable beyond Macarthy island to the cataracts, which are some one hundred and eighty miles from its mouth, and trading stations are found as high up. There are some thirteen tribes under different chiefs, and several different languages and dialects are spoken. The country is unsafe to travel in without a sufficient force for protection. It was here that Mungo Park, the renowned traveller, commenced his explorations, and it is supposed that he was killed on the Niger, after losing his soldiers and marines by fever and exhaustion. One of our fellow passengers, a colonel in the service, owned a farm ten miles from the town; his house was attacked, several killed, and he had a narrow escape.

I find much hospitality on the part of the inhabitants, which is quite natural when they have a steamer from Europe at long intervals. The Governor of Gambia, Col. D’Arcy, and his interesting wife, to whom I was recommended, offered me their house. I dined with them and passed an evening; breakfasted with our consul, a Brazilian by birth; visited several other of the prominent residents; and rode some miles along the coast, passing by the English burying ground, which seemed fast filling up. The government house belongs to the crown. It is a fine mansion, pleasantly situated among tropical trees and flowering plants. Negro soldiers as sentinels at the gate reminded me in this particular of the entrance to Soulouque’s palace in the island of Hayti.

A number of French vessels are in port loading with ground nuts for making oil; many dry hides are also shipped. The trade of Senegal, the French colony, lying farther north, is of considerable importance. I find here a small vessel loading with peanuts, or ground nuts, for Boston; she hails from Salem. The down-easters are the most enterprising mariners in the world. They are met with in the most remote quarters of the globe. I have found them where I thought no trade could be furnished--up the Red Sea, the Island of Sumatra, Zanzibar, and other places, picking up coffee, spices, gums, and all sorts of products, in exchange for hard biscuits, coarse cotton cloth, lumber, wooden clocks, and an infinity of Yankee notions. The captain of this small vessel is quite a youth; he had his head cut and his nose broken by a mutinous sailor, but he came off victorious.

While at Teneriffe, the war steamer San Jacinto, belonging to the American squadron, watching the African slave coast, came in port. She was proceeding to Cadiz for repairs, as her machinery was out of order, and the nearest point was Spain. Capt. Armstrong was in command. Several of the officers were from our state. They had been cruising eight months, and, as you can imagine, were pleased to meet with one who could give direct news from Europe and the United States.

CLVII.

SIERRA LEONE, WEST COAST OF AFRICA, March 14, 1860.

Two days’ steaming brought us from Bathurst, Gambia river, to this, the oldest English settlement on the west coast of Africa. It is situated upon a broad bay at the entrance of the Sierra Leone river, with high hills and peaks in the distance. The soil looks reddish, like that of New Jersey, but is thoroughly charged with iron. The vegetation is decidedly tropical, producing palm oil, ginger, spices, gum, bread-fruit, oranges, bananas, pineapples, etc. The heat is oppressive.

The fever epidemic has destroyed fifty-eight out of ninety-eight white residents within thirty days. The Catholic mission is closed, the bishop and the priests under his charge having died. The other missions also suffered, but not to the same extent. One of the prominent colored missionaries of the English Episcopal church I found to be a native of Charleston, South Carolina. He had lost his white German wife by fever.

I visited the schools for the education of the young males and females, and found them getting on very well in their studies. The sons of negroes who have been slaves in other countries, and who are traders and general dealers, appreciate the importance of education; but those of the villages and in the suburbs live in that listless manner characteristic of the negro. They perform but little labor, sufficient only to procure rum and tobacco as luxuries, for nature furnishes yams and other necessaries of life without much effort, preferring to bask and sleep in the rays of the broiling sun, which are death to the white man.

The French consul, to whom I had a letter and with whom I dined, drove me to his villa on the shore, some miles from town, a beautiful spot, where nature appeared in all her loveliness; but the insidious fever had closed the mission edifice in the neighborhood. We drove through villages at different times and in different directions up and down the coast, among hedges of lime trees twenty feet high, filled with fruit, resembling the wild vegetation of Venezuela. The umbrella-topped palm grows in profusion. The oleander and other hot-house plants with us, standing fifteen feet high, in bloom, as in the West Indies; pine-apple bushes laden with fruit are growing in a wild state; and the wide-spreading branches of the mango offer opportunity for repose, but the threatened fever for the white man breaks the charm.

The African fever this year has carried off thousands of the negroes also. The present population, mostly black, is computed to be forty thousand. The garrison is English, but the officers only are white, the soldiery consisting of natives and captured slaves, who are apprenticed. The vessels in the harbor during the epidemic, a few months since, lost in some cases captains, officers, crews, and even the cats on board, leaving the vessel riding alone at anchor. We don’t sleep ashore as yet on any occasion.

The few white residents left are most hospitable, and my letters were such as to furnish all the civilities the settlement can afford. A wealthy German merchant, who has a native wife, as most persons have on the African coast, did all the honors for the Vaterland, a German missionary, whom I knew at Teneriffe, and who had left for his health, having given me letters.

The thermometer stands at from eighty-eight to ninety-seven in the shade, so that a piece of ice from the steamer, sent as a present by the officers of our ship to their friends and acquaintances, is esteemed a great luxury. White umbrellas are in vogue.

The next steamer will bring out the new Governor and English Bishop, his predecessor being dead. The Spanish consul and vice-consul both died, and the acting French consul has just been decorated by the Spanish Queen for services rendered during the crisis.

The English steamer Pluto is in port, having just returned from St. Helena after the capture of the American bark Orion with eight hundred and fifty slaves. These are apprenticed for a number of years, and a bounty of five pounds or twenty-five dollars her head is paid to the officers of the ship by the English government in addition to the thirty-five shillings per ton upon the hull. The vessels are then condemned and sawn in two. Several such half hulks lie on the beach here. I noticed two American schooners in port, fine rakish looking vessels, appearing as if they were for what they call here the “black-bird trade.” Our American officers, whom I met in the Canary islands, complain that they cannot get prizes, as the English have spies all along the coast and get information, which they can afford to pay for, as John Bull pays such large prize money, while our people pay only in sympathy.

An amusing incident has just occurred. A negro soldier came on deck and handed me a note. I found he spoke but little English jargon, which the negroes use, and I asked him where he came from. He said he was a captured slave, and now received half-pay for military service. At that moment he recognised a Portuguese passenger as the man who had sold him on the coast. His eye glistened with anger as he spoke to the person, and said, “You sold me.” The Portuguese could not recollect him, as he was one out of one hundred and sixty which he admitted he bought, and sold at a profit of twenty-eight dollars per head. On further conversation, the negro admitted that he was now very glad of the change.

The brig Harris, an American, has lately been taken. The English had watched the vessel for a long time as suspicious, and, in fact, knew what it was up to, but it is policy for them to wait until the negroes are on board; thus they get apprentices and the bounty money. In the evening the Englishman visited the ship, the cargo was already on board, the hatches closed, and some negroes lying on deck, who were reported as native sailors of the coast. The crew were pulling the tails of pigs to make them squeal, to prevent the hearing of noise from the hold, where officers stood with revolvers, threatening the negroes if they did not keep quiet. The hatches were down twenty minutes. The commander left, satisfied that the game was not yet bagged, and went away, when an English captain informed him that he had seen the negroes going on board. Had it not been for this information the American would have been off. He was watched, boarded, and commanded to haul down his flag and give up his papers. The American denied the right to board him, according to treaty. Then, said the commander, I will detain you until I find an American cruizer, and you will be delivered up and tried as a pirate. The effect was produced, and a compromise took place. The Englishman turned his back, the flag was hauled down, and the papers were thrown overboard, officers and men permitted to leave with their effects, and the vessel seized as a prize, without nationality of papers, or flag.

CLVIII.

CAPE COAST CASTLE, WEST COAST OP AFRICA, March 18, 1860.

On our departure from Sierra Leone, we proceeded down the coast of Liberia, and landed at Harper, Cape Palmas. I found the Rev. Mr. Ramba in charge of the Missionary Establishment. There were two young ladies who had recently arrived from the United States. One of them had not recovered from the African fever. I found there, in the little town, many manumitted slaves from Kentucky, Virginia, and Maryland, with whom I conversed; also, some of the recaptured slaves from the brig Echo, which were sent out by the frigate Niagara. The United States Government pay one year’s schooling, and those unable to take care of themselves are apprenticed. I was invited to dine by the family who occupy the Asylum buildings, erected by the Protestant Episcopal Society of the United States. The position is most commanding and elevated, on a promontory bathed by the rolling surf, with tropical fruits and flowers in the background. But notwithstanding its advantageous location, the malignant fever of Africa finds its way. Being in a country where no distinction is made in color, I find myself at table with white and black missionaries and their wives, reminding me of my peregrinations in the island of Hayti, where my table companions in some outside villages were only of the sable hue. You are aware that the English and French are unlike the Americans in their prejudices in this particular. On board our steamer, we have had in the first cabin, and at table, practical amalgamation. Foreigners have native wives, and you find children running about of every dye. It goes even further, in the marriage of white women with black men.

Liberia, you are aware, is a republic, having its President, Senators, and Representatives. The towns are mostly occupied by the native population, whose wants are quite limited, as is the case with the black race generally in this country, whose dress consists at most of a small handkerchief or a string of pearls about the loins. The incentive to labor is slight, and the efforts of the missionaries meet with little success; and unless through some special providence, this benighted coast can make but little progress. An intelligent mulatto woman came down with us to Cape Coast Castle, in the cabin. She was from Savannah, Georgia. She had come over with her husband, to visit her father and mother, who had emigrated to Liberia, and died with fever. She had lost her husband by the same disease, and wished herself back again. She remarked, that at times she had hopes for the Colony, and then again felt discouraged, as many of the manumitted slaves, instead of showing an example to the heathen, fell into their vices. The trade of Liberia is very limited; and, were it not for the Colonization Society, their case now might be hopeless. They have a small war schooner, presented by the British Government; one schooner, called the Monrovia, was in port, which trades with the United States. I must here mention a circumstance which occurred in sending over a parcel of manumitted negroes from New Orleans. A philanthropic captain offered to bring over the party for a nominal sum; he supplied himself with water casks well filled, and abundant provisions for a long voyage, and returning with ample berth accommodations. Of course he obtained his clearance for such a benevolent object without difficulty, landed the released blacks, ran down the coast, filled up with slaves, and landed his cargo of human flesh on the island of Cuba!

We proceed along, down to the Dutch town and fort of Elmina, and the English fort and town of Cape Coast Castle, on the Gold Coast. The surf and breakers along this coast at times are frightful; but the naked natives, in boats dug out of the trunks of trees, containing from ten to fifteen persons, with side oars or paddles, not unlike huge wooden shovels, swarm around the ship, and carry you ashore through the foaming billows. Once the beach struck, they jump in the water to draw the boat up, and then carry you on their backs to dry land. The Dutch Governor, six miles above here, has just visited the English Governor, and held what is termed a Palaver with the Queen of Assin, who was escorted by bands of nearly naked negro troops or subjects, with the most wild and discordant music from tom-toms or kettle-drums, reed flutes, frightful sounding gongs, ringing of small bells, etc., amid the yells and shouts of this maddened crew. Another body of Bushmen, who were going to war with a neighboring tribe, were congregating with their muskets, which they are all provided with; they had been parading with a white umbrella over the captain’s head, under a vertical sun, with as much veneration as the carrying of the Host over the head of the Pope, in the church ceremonies of Rome. At length they bivouacked under the shade of a wide-spread mango tree, where rum, the usual beverage of the natives, was passed around, amid the shouts, laughter, and war songs of these half savages, much to the edification of a half dozen slave girls, who were peeping over a wall adjoining.

Ships come down to the coast of Guinea from Boston and New York, loaded with the two staples of negro luxury, rum and tobacco; but I am sorry to learn that some of those people who cry out so strongly against our domestic institution of the South, and would willingly sacrifice our beloved Union, lend themselves to the slave trade, in furnishing empty rum casks to slavers, which are filled with water, and get a clearance from the Custom House, as if engaged in legitimate traffic; thereby enabling them to run along the coast for the sale of articles without suspicion, when they fill up with slaves and start for Cuba.

The soil here abounds with particles of gold, which the natives wash when their daily wants require small means, but they are destitute of the merit of perseverance unless forced to it. The white population consists here of only a few officers in the fort, supported by native or apprenticed soldiers. The native houses or huts are of wicker or reed work, plastered with mud and covered with palm leaves or branches. The Wesleyan missionaries have a fine, eligible establishment. I found three of their number here present, as also some native preachers and teachers. One of the number is the nephew to the king of the Ashantees. He had been sent to England for an education. They were well provided with the good things of this life in eating and drinking, which they are entitled to in this barbarous country.

I saw sheep and goats on the grounds--some monkeys chattering about; large numbers are found in the woods; the natives are fond of them, and their skins are an article of exportation, for ladies’ muffs.

We have had a melancholy duty to perform: one of our fellow passengers, who-occupied a state room opposite to me, died night before last. He was a physician, who could not heal himself according to the command in Scripture. Our number of passengers was now reduced to four. He had supped with us, and two hours after was a corpse. I felt it a duty to assist in performing the last rites of a Christian burial, not knowing but others might be called upon to perform a similar service for one seven thousand miles from home. The ship carpenter made a rude pine coffin, which was covered with the English union jack. We solicited the offices of a missionary, but whether from the sudden shock, or fear of fever, I know not, but I found myself the only passenger among the group following his mortal remains to the white man’s little graveyard, carried upon the shoulders of negroes. The captain, purser, first engineer, and myself, stood with white umbrellas under a broiling sun, the parched earth almost blistering our feet, until the burial service was read by the officiating Episcopal clergyman in his white robes. It was the mournful sight of a Christian burial in strong contrast with the listless, idle, and gazing groups of dark, naked figures, which curiosity had attracted to the spot. A civil engineer in the Government employ, was the only resident who joined us in the funeral, and to whose house we adjourned after the ceremonies were over; we were provided with refreshments, which we stood in need of.

Many forts along the coast, which once amounted to thirty, have fallen into decay; they were used for slave factories, and were in the possession of the Portuguese, the Dutch, the Danes, and the English, to provide the Colonies with slaves.

We proceed to Acra, further along the coast, in possession of the Dutch and English, and thence to the territory of the king of Dahomy, who is now waging war to procure slaves for the annual sacrifice, and I may be able to give you some of these barbarous statistics.

CLIX.

STEAMER ATHENIEN, OFF LAGOS, WEST COAST OF AFRICA, March 23, 1860.

After visiting the Grain, Ivory, and Gold Coasts, and the territory of the king of Dahomy, we now find ourselves off the formidable breakers of Lagos. The mail bags we headed up in a puncheon, in the event of capsizing the native boat. The landing is so unsafe, and being probably the worst on the coast of Africa, none of us are allowed to make the attempt. Two passengers from Acra go on board of vessels lying outside, at anchor, until a more favorable opportunity offers. Sometimes no landing is effected for weeks. The sharks are so abundant that they upset crews of natives, and strangers are often lost.

Acra, our next landing-place after Cape Coast Castle, is one-half occupied by the English fort and native town, and the other half by a Dutch fort and settlement. The resident traders complain of the want of commerce, as the king of the country, whom the English had punished and laid under tribute of ten thousand pounds, payable in palm oil, at fixed prices, would not execute the payment. I there found two merchants from Cape Coast, who had bought the contract, &c., which the king now rejects. It remains to be seen if the British will enforce it.

The Danes were in possession of a large fort at Christianborg, a few miles from Acra, which they have sold to the English for the nominal sum of five thousand pounds. The Commandant of the English fort politely offered me his horse, and a recommendation to the officer in command, which I accepted, and found, in the absence of the Governor, only one officer and the doctor of the station. Five officers had died of the African fever, and the soldiery consisted of one hundred and thirteen negroes. The town looked abandoned, and in part battered down, as the native tribes had attacked the fort, which is well mounted with small brass guns. They were soon put to flight, and the broken walls of the village indicated the result.

The fort is eligibly situated; the sand was scorching hot, but the sea breeze in the shade was cool and refreshing; the surf was rolling in strongly, and hundreds of negroes were in it bathing. The little cemetery, as I passed, showed the new-made graves; the African ants had thrown up, hastily, pyramids of a conical form, ten feet in height.

Notwithstanding the curious scenes to occupy the mind, and the white umbrellas as a protection from heat, I felt the blood boiling in my veins, and if I had given way to my emotions, would have fancied the fever was upon me.

In Acra, I met with a Yankee trader, whose house was situated among and surrounded by the huts of the natives. The walls of the court inclosed his cooperage and his buildings for palm-oil casks, and supplies of rum, tobacco, and notions.

A group of nearly naked boys and girls were counting cowrie shells from Zanzibar, which furnishes small currency, and which are separated in little parcels with great alacrity. They are there worth forty to the cent, or four thousand to the dollar. They are also strung as beads, and worn about the neck and loins by both sexes.

The Yankee looked sallow, as if the African climate was doing its work; but the desire of gain is an incentive sufficient for the white man to try to live in a climate which nature designed only for the black race.

The king of Dahomy, whose capital is about ninety miles from the coast, permits no forts in his dominions. Whydah and Badagry have been famous for the slave trade. When the late king died some six hundred slaves were buried alive with him. They were made drunk and then driven into an excavated grotto or prison house, which was then walled up. I here give you a list of the articles and objects deposited on the occasion of the funeral from an eye-witness:

Ten pieces of silk, five dozen country cloths, twenty guns, eight bags of cowrie shells, two boxes soap, male and female slave, as present from the Yavogah of Whydah, scarfs, table cloths, satin, silk handkerchiefs, velvets, carpets, packages of unbleached shirting, a present from the great slaver Domingo, a cocked hat and plume, gold chains, slippers, ten puncheons of rum, forty kegs of powder, another male and female slave, with letter to the deceased king, in addition to the six or eight hundred already mentioned.

The king of Dahomy is now at war with his neighbors to procure prisoners and slaves for the anniversary custom of sacrifices and consecration to the memory of the late king. All the whites within his territory on the coast are invited and commanded to be present at the sacrifices. All resident traders and vessels are compelled to pay tonnage dues for the privilege of trade, or make presents to the king. A Portuguese whom we landed from the steamer, and who had delivered a cargo of negroes in Havana, for which he obtained one thousand dollars per head, and which had cost from twenty-five to forty dollars, had four trunks of valuable goods, comprising rich crimson velvets, and other articles, as presents for the king.

He is said to have some twenty-five thousand warriors, and a body-guard of eight thousand Amazons, with a vast number of wives in addition. He also possesses extensive buildings and palaces, all of which have been contributed without doubt by the whites in the way of trade, or for the purchase of slaves.

If a vessel is wrecked, or goes ashore, the whole property belongs to the king, and the officers and crew are sent up to his capital. A Hamburg brig just wrecked lost everything, and the captain and crew would have been sent up, had not the king been absent making war for slaves. We found three of the crew on board of an American brig now in the offing.

The captain of the brig Jehosse has just come on board of us from the American trading barque Baron de Castine, whose supercargo we brought down from Acra. The former captain had died and been replaced; the present captain was also sick, but under the care of the doctor of the British steamer Viper. He represents that he came out with lumber and provisions from Charleston, S. C., and was on a legitimate trading voyage, when he was boarded by Captain Fitzroy, of the British steamer Falcon, who demanded his register and list of crew, which were given up, who declared him to be a slaver, and ordered him to haul down his flag, which he refused; he was then ordered to open his box of private papers, which he also refused. A prize crew was ordered on board, and himself and crew sent as prisoners on board the steamer. The men were stripped and examined, the captain’s box broken open and papers examined. The clearances, &c., were all found legal, and the captain and crew released. He protested against a release, but was put on his vessel, where he found his liquors all drunk, cigars smoked, prize crew drunk, and the vessel in danger of beaching in the kingdom of Dahomy. The officer in command of the prize crew begged of him to come to his relief, and gave a certificate to that effect. The brig has waited fifty or sixty days for an American cruiser, but not finding one to take up the case, the captain sends his vessel to the United States as abandoned, and takes our steamer to catch an American man-of-war before which to bring his case.

It will be a serious matter for Captain Fitzroy, who is represented as a dissipated commander, of aristocratic family, but will now probably lose his commission, and the British government will pay heavy damages.

A singular custom prevails among the natives of the coast. I asked particularly the details of a black missionary. Every man has a lien upon his nephews and nieces, and can pawn them for debt, or sell them into slavery, but this right he cannot exercise over his own children. In the event of the death of a person, his property goes to his sister, as next of kin. She or her husband takes care of the children, and if occasion demand, they are made slaves, or pawned.

CLX.

BONNY RIVER, GULF OF GUINEA, March 27, 1860.

From Lagos, our steamer proceeded to the river Benin, landed some cargo, and received forty-two puncheons of palm oil. We there found a Hamburg ship, just in from Zanzibar, on the coast of Africa, with a full cargo of cowrie shells, used for currency and ornaments. The shores are here monotonous; the vegetation is rank, as well as at the mouth of the Niger, which we passed on our way to this place.

A project is on foot for a new expedition up the Niger, the former expedition on the part of the British government having met with disaster. We have a disabled steward now on board, who accompanied these adventurers; he is as yellow as a marigold, and the seeds of fever in him will probably never be eradicated.

The entrance to Bonny river is difficult, and requires watchful navigation. We brought on deck a huge iron riveted air-tight boiler, to be used as a buoy or guide to mariners passing the bar, and came near losing it, as well as our vessel.

Sunday morning, May 25th, according to usual custom on board of British vessels, the Church of England service was read in the presence of crew and passengers; and I was quite interested in noticing some blacks from Monrovia, who were present, and seemed to take some interest in the ceremonies. At five P. M., just at the close of dinner, the ship some seven miles from the mouth of the river, under full sail and heavy head of steam, the captain on the bridge, struck a sand-bar, jumped twice, and we rushed on deck and found her in a perilous condition. We got out hawsers astern, furled all sail, and worked the machine and windlass back, to haul off, but without success. Night was approaching, and the breakers increasing, the ship at times keeling over, and then jumping as if the masts would come out of her. The ports and skylights of cabin closed, with the sea breaking over the stern, made it look dreary enough. Being on a barbarous coast, where no white man lives, the prospects were not very flattering. The boats were all got in condition, with buckets for bailing. Rockets were sent up for relief, hoping they might be seen some five miles up from the mouth of the river, where lay a small steamer, used as a tender, and for the continuation of the voyage to Fernando Po. Our own steamer being at the end of her line in the Gulf of Guinea, usually takes in her coal from a hulk moored in the stream, brushes up, and waits the return of the tender, with freight picked up in the Old Calabar and Camaroon rivers. A little time after the accident occurred, one of our passengers, an old sea captain, came to me, and said softly, “If you have anything valuable which you wish to save, you had better get it out, as I would not give fifty pounds for the vessel.” I was hurriedly packing up a few articles, when the purser came to me and said, “I have been securing the ship’s papers and valuables, and I would advise your taking a few articles in your valise, as we may have to take the ship’s boats outside the breakers, and wait for the tide.” You can imagine we passed a wretched and sleepless night. The engines were soon choked up with sand, and all began to think the ship must be lost, although strongly built. Morning brought us more quiet weather. We sent the second mate with a boat’s crew up the river for relief. He had twelve miles to make, with sails and oars. At mid-day the little steamer came. We threw overboard coal, and palm oil in puncheons, to lighten the ship, took advantage of the wind, steam, &c., and succeeded in forcing her over the sandbars by nightfall. We had taken refuge on board of the small steamer, in the distance, as she could not approach us for the shoals; and I got off with a portion of my effects, in wet condition.

The Bonny is a broad and navigable river. The New Calibar River comes in a short distance from this place. The trade of the two rivers is in palm oil. Vessels of large size come out from England with a variety of goods, that can be used by the natives in the interior, such as waistcloths, beads, rum, tobacco, guns, powder, &c.

The vessels are anchored, sails put away, the ship is housed in, with peaked roof, covered with palm leaf, making it cool; and here they remain for two years, or until they get full. They have their cooperage on board, the casks being brought in shooks [bundles of staves]. The natives come alongside in canoes, with the oil made from the berry of the palm tree, boiled and skimmed, and enter the ship, fitted up like a country store for barter and trade. Some want brass stair rods as currency, which treasure can, in emergencies, be buried, and not injured by rust. Some want a portion of most articles named. The native chiefs and traders buy largely, and some on credit, which is paid for in oil in quantities.

The small currency here is not the cowrie-shell, but small horseshoe-formed brass articles called manillas.

At this enlightened age of the world we hear so little of cannibalism, that were I not an eye-witness, I also should be doubtful. I lauded with a party here on the shore, proceeded through the bush, was carried on the shoulders of our Kroomen sailors, through the pools of water, and came to the village of Bonny, composed of huts of reed, plastered with mud, covered with palm leaves, without any attempt at ornament or architecture in construction on lines of alleys or streets. A party of girls and boys, of some ten years of age, whose dress consisted of a string of beads about the loins, and with long poles in hand, were trying to drive out a “guana” [a species of lizard] into the marsh, and he persisted in not going voluntarily. This brute was five feet in length, harmless, and one of their fetisches [idols]. They would punch him along, and turn him with their poles, at which he would bite, but they dared not lay hands on the holy animal. Woe to the man who inadvertently or wilfully kills one! We were then told that the heads of the two prisoners who were killed, and whose bodies were eaten the day previous, were in front of the Joujou House, or heathen temple, to which we repaired. We found the head of a female, some eighteen years of age, having good teeth and features, but little distorted, notwithstanding the beheading with a dull axe. The man appeared to have been forty years of age. A party of men were dancing like wild Indians around the heads, and in front of the mud temple, to the sounds of tom-toms, or kettle-drums, reed flutes, &c.; the Joujou men, or priests, were singing monotonous and discordant songs. The heads of the victims began to smell, rendering the feast, perhaps, more acceptable to the priests’ wives, whose privilege it is to have soup made from the heads, after which the whitened skulls will be placed upon a rude platform, standing in front of the temple, which now contains the craniums and bones of the last victims; and these ghastly relics will add further trophies to the paved floor of the building, whose walls are also provided with scores of others. I have often gazed upon the beautiful and variegated mosaic floors of marble in the churches of Italy, but it had never occurred to me that I should ever see a heathen temple with a mosaic floor of the skulls and bones of prisoners who had been killed and eaten. When I reflected upon the narrow escape we had just made upon this barbarous coast, within a few miles of such wretches, who might now be feasting upon our remains, if thrown helpless in their hands, I could only express my gratitude to heaven for my protection.

CLXI.

MAYUMBA, SOUTH AFRICA, April 3, 1860.

I abandoned the good staunch ship, which barely escaped leaving her wreck upon the bar. I there found a little steamer called the Rainbow, which formed a part of the Niger Expedition, but she was not in running order at present. I came down with the Retriever, a small steamer acting as tender for the old one I had left, and we proceeded to the island of Fernando Po, about forty miles from the main land, after getting out of the Gulf of Guinea. The island is fertile, with high mountainous country, and is very gratifying to the eye after the monotonous scenery already passed through. It is occupied by a different race of negroes from those of the African coast, called Boobies, and whose habits and manner are milder and more harmless. They daub their bodies, faces, and wool with red clay, and one of their belles squatted on the ground before a small mirror, adorning herself, her only garment being a strip of a handkerchief, would certainly be considered a droll sight in a civilized country. They differ from all the negro races of the African coast, whose reputation for chastity is not remarkable. The crime of adultery is punished there with the loss of the right arm, and in some cases is enforced.

Tornadoes are not infrequent in the Gulf of Guinea. We experienced one on our way down from Bonny. I was awakened past midnight by terrific peals of thunder and forked lightning, the howling of the winds, and the cry of officers upon deck. Looking out, I perceived amid the vivid flashes of lightning, the naked stalwart figures of the Kroomen, or African sailors. I could only compare the reality of what occurred with the faint efforts of some dark and wild demoniacal scene upon the stage. Our ship did her duty, and we came out safe.

On the African coast one sees many strange phenomena. One evening the whole sea seemed a sheet of phosphorescent brightness, lighting up the night, so that one could almost read. The crest of the waves was tinged with silvery light, and the vessel seemed ploughing through quicksilver. On another occasion, one hundred miles from land, the fine dust and reddish sand covered the deck, the wind bringing these particles from the parched and burning south.

The Spaniards are in possession of the island of Fernando Po, for the second time, having once abandoned it. They are now attempting the re-occupation of the country. The insidious fever is making sad work, and a large part of the colonists have already died. The Governor’s family is on board of a war vessel, and will go back to Spain. It is a singular fact that white females cannot live there. The only lady is the wife of the English Consul, who suffers much from ill health. Quinine is the most valuable article here as an antidote and cure for fever. One of our commanders paid ninety dollars for twenty-nine ounces. When I arrived at Fernando Po, I had reached the terminus of communication by English steamers, and unless I could fall in with some man-of-war, I must retrace my steps. I fortunately found the United States war steamer Mystic, Capt. Leroy, whose brother I had made voyages with in California and Oregon, and his first Lieutenant, Haxton, whom I had known intimately years since. When we met at the English Consul’s house, they expressed their great surprise at meeting one whom they had spoken of recently, in this barbarous part of the world. My desire being to continue down to St. Paul de Loando, and all along the cruising ground of the American squadron, Capt. Leroy kindly offered me the half of his cabin.

We proceeded to Princess Island, one of the group of several, including Fernando Po, which are of volcanic origin. There we made a connexion with the sloop-of-war Portsmouth, to put on board three officers recently from the United States by the war steamer Mohican.

We paid Capt. Calhoun and his ship and officers a visit. They are bound to Madeira, to communicate with the flag officer, Commodore Inman of the Constellation. A day spent in taking in wood and water, and getting supplies of chickens, oranges, limes, bananas, alligator pears, and other fruits, and looking at and admiring the freaks of nature in the formation of peaks, pyramids, domes, cones, and every conceivable feature in scenery, with the richest and most exuberant growth of tropical forests and fruits, we then left for this point, to meet the United States steamer Sumpter, and transfer the correspondence for the vessels on the station below. The discipline and order on board of the Mystic are of a high character, perfect unity and good feeling existing between officers and men, which is so desirable, especially on stations so much exposed and so remote. The Sabbath is strictly observed, with religious exercises. The health of those on board of the ship was remarkably good, which is much to say on this fiery coast, with upwards of one hundred and fifty men.

We have just spoken the British war vessel Archer. This is the fourth English ship cruising for slavers that we have met on the coast thus far. We expect soon to see the Sumpter, when I shall be transferred to her, to proceed down to the Congo River--a great point for the shipping of slaves, and from thence by a schooner to the Portuguese city of St. Paul de Loanda, in latitude eight deg. south. It is the most important settlement of the coast south of Sierra Leone.

We have now crossed the equator, and proceed south. You can imagine the heat, as this is the height of summer. Awnings, umbrellas, fruits, and refreshing drinks, would at times be abandoned willingly for a pound of ice. The African station is the hardest and most wearing upon the constitution of our naval officers. It is withering and weakening, and were it not that they are almost constantly on shipboard it would make sad work with them. Those of the men who are imprudent enough to sleep ashore and expose themselves, suffer the penalty of fever. The crew never have the privilege granted in these latitudes, but occasionally a sailor on shore duty gets astray, and has to suffer the consequences. During a two years’ cruise, if a vessel goes to Saint Helena or Madeira, then the captain avails himself of these healthy points to give his men, in rotation, such hours of liberty as may be deemed prudent.

The British steamer Pluto captured, not long since, the American bark Orion, with seven hundred and fifteen slaves on board, composed of men, women, and children; one hundred and fifty-two had died on the passage, as she started with eight hundred and seventy-one. She was taken to St. Helena, and condemned--the negroes apprenticed as usual. The officers having hauled down their colors and thrown their papers overboard, would have escaped, but this steamer went in pursuit and secured the officers, and sent them to the United States; whether they will be convicted or not, remains to be seen.

CLXII.

ON BOARD U. S. WAR STEAMER SUMPTER, ST. PAUL DE LOANDO, April 14, 1860.

I was transferred from the war steamer Mystic, and presented to the officers of the Sumpter, from whom I have received the kindest evidences of hospitality. Captain McDonough offered me his table and cabin, and Lieutenant Stewart, and his brother officers, of the wardroom mess, always make me a welcome guest. A tourist is scarcely ever found on this benighted coast, and for that reason I am well treated. It is only when I find myself out of the way of all civilized lines of communication, that I am willing to trouble either our own officers, or those of foreign governments; but necessity has obliged me to sail under the flags of several.

We met the British war steamer Falmouth, which took the American brig Jehosse, and afterwards released her, the captain abandoned her, as I wrote you, and came in pursuit of an American man-of-war. Lieutenant Stewart came on board to verify the certificates which Captain Fitzroy gave Captain Vincent, who is now with us. He and his officers admitted their signatures. The documents will be sent to the United States, copies having already been forwarded for diplomatic action.

We met the sloop-of-war Marion, Captain Brent, and passed a few hours on board of her, as pleasantly as circumstances would permit, after the disappointment the officers had experienced in not receiving instructions to return home after a two years’ cruise. They expected confidently such orders by the mail we brought down. Fortunately for me, instead of being transferred to a small schooner at the Congo River for this port, the Sumpter was ordered here for supplies at the naval station.

At the Gaboon, a French settlement, they have their barracoons for free labor, which is slavery under another form, and which the English and Americans dare not interfere with. The negroes are enlisted for a term of years, under the payment of a certain sum for service, in the islands of Martinique and Guadaloupe. They are shipped legitimately, and not packed as with slavers, who are forced to watch their opportunity, and escape with as many as possible, without regard to breathing space or supplies of water. The negroes shipped are either slaves already, or pawned for debt, and made to say they are willing--and probably escape much worse bondage than they would in their native country. They certainly do, if they are treated as our negroes in the southern states.

Our ship overhauled recently an American brig, with slave deck laid; but her papers were in order. The captain at first sent a lieutenant and men on board of her, and was going to send her to the United States as a prize, no doubt being entertained of the intention of running off a cargo; but upon reflection and advice, he abandoned the project. If she was not condemned at home, the owners would come upon the captain for all the damages, and his private funds would be taken to pay for it. The government does not assume the responsibility. If commanders do their duty, they must put their property out of their hands, and have nothing to lose. They can then take suspicious vessels and send them to the United States--but they may have judgments hanging over them all their lives. It is an undisputed fact, that the slave trade is carried on by American vessels mostly, and to the shame of our northern and New England states, whence come the constant cries against the South. A ship which I once made a passage in to Havre, has been fitted out as a whaler, with all the appliances, for the purpose, without doubt, as a decoy, and instead of catching the black whales, they intend to capture another kind of animal of the same color. Her papers are all in order. Captain Goudon, of the new war steamer Mohican, whom I visited on this station, boarded her. She is just out from the United States, and is in suspicious waters, where there are no whales. His excuse is, they wanted some fresh water. She can take a thousand negroes, and is here under the garb of a whaler; but no American officer dare take her without the negroes on board, unless he is made liable for personal damages. The whole thing is a farce. If our government was honest in the suppression of the slave trade, and would take the responsibility of loss in case of failure of confiscation, the trade would soon be lessened.

We have a squadron of four vessels now on the African coast, and three are off active duty. The flag ship is at Madeira, the Portsmouth has just started for that place, and I met the San Jacinto at Teneriffe, going to Cadiz for repairs.

We are expending large sums to keep up a squadron of eighty guns, according to the Ashburton Treaty, and are hunting up the game for the English to bag. They watch and wait, and have their spies; and when the vessels are filled they seize them. The captain, under threat of being handed over to an American man-of-war, and tried for piracy, makes a bargain for his life and the lives of his crew, probably saving some property, hauls down his flag and throws his papers overboard. The Englishman gets his bounty money, and turns over the negroes for colonists for seven years, which probably often means life.

The bay of Loando is deep and tolerably broad; the water close to town is shallow from the washing of the high clay banks, which extend along the coast, and form the upper town. This is the oldest settlement (Portuguese) along the coast, and I notice some old dates, of the year 1600. The slave trade built it up. The Brazil markets were supplied from here. Some fifty thousand were supplied annually. That has ceased, and the town and country become commercial. The soil in the interior is fertile, and produces excellent coffee, which rivals the Mocha in quality. There is a Governor-General, a custom-house, police and military force. The lower town is very sandy and hot. The negro population is large. Slavery continues, but will expire by limitation in ten years. Fever prevails to a considerable extent; the only safeguard is, to sleep on shipboard. No hotels or restaurants are to be found. The merchants who have vessels trading with the United States, Portugal, and other countries, have as large and comfortable houses as possible, and frequently invite friends to their table. The English have a consul and adjudicator for condemned vessels.

The American Consul is connected with a business firm in Salem, who have trading vessels and factories on the coast. At Quecimbo, a bartering point along shore, we found four factories, or bungalows, English, Dutch, and American. They are constructed of reed and palm, large, light, and airy, inclosing courts or yards by picket-worked fences, and there they are without protection from the natives, other than a few fire-arms. An important event occurred there a few days before our visit. A Congo prince, who had been educated in Portugal, wishing to make some reform in the negro administration of matters, was pursued, and took refuge in the English factory. He was demanded by the natives, who surrounded the establishment in thousands. Finding that the building would be sacrificed and given up to pillage, he gave himself up, and was killed within thirty feet, his body cut in pieces, and scattered about. We were surrounded by a group of these black, dirty, and naked subjects--two were called princes, but the only distinction was they wore a sort of cap, while others disdain every covering but the wool.

CLXIII.

ON BOARD PORTUGUESE STEAMER ESTAPHANIA, PROVINCE OF ANGOLA, April 24, 1860.

Being so far down on the south-west coast of Africa, my full intention had been to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, if by any possible conveyance I could get there; but it appears I have run out the end of the chain, and no opportunity offering, I must get back by the best possible means. This steamer is my only chance, direct to Portugal, and, if nothing presents itself, I must turn my face again towards Europe, with the prospect of a thirty-five days’ passage, touching along the African coast at Ambriz and the Island of San Tomé, and thence up to the Cape de Verdes.

The captain of the English gunboat Lynx, now bound to the island of Ascension, has kindly offered to take me, through the recommendation of the English consul, but the chance being less of getting away from there I declined.

This is the province where the African traveller, Livingstone, came out when he returned to England. The captain of the Lynx met him recently, on the east coast of Africa.

The colonial government here is in trouble. I noticed Portuguese and black soldiers going on board of a brig moored near us. The negroes rose near Ambriz in large numbers, attacked the troops, and succeeded in killing and driving into the river some one hundred and forty men. One of the officers, who dined with a government employé where I was invited the other day, narrowly escaped with his life.

The heat is now most oppressive and overpowering. We have frequent thunderstorms with vivid lightning, which tends to purify the atmosphere. It is far the safest to sleep on shipboard, as the fever is prevailing ashore.

Maxillas are used for moving about the town of Loanda, as the least exertion produces violent perspiration, and exposure to the sun brings disastrous results. The mode of conveyance is somewhat like the palanquin in the East Indies, but not so spacious or convenient. You are carried by two negroes, instead of four or six, as are used there. Here a sort of sofa bottom of cane work is suspended by cords from a light roof, attached to a strong pole, resting upon the shoulders of the bearers. A cushion supports the back, and curtains are floating on each side, which keep off the sun, and the motion produces a gentle breeze. In this manner you make your visits and excursions in the town and suburbs.

There are no American or English men-of-war in port. We have three persons on board waiting for a passage; one a purser of an American man-of-war going home invalided; a Portuguese from Benguela who has exposed himself and got the fever; and myself, afflicted with “Job’s comforters,” which keep off the same disease. Our numbers will be augmented in a day or two.

The English are making great efforts to introduce the culture of cotton in Africa, so as to render them less dependent upon the United States. I heard at Acra, on the Gold Coast, that a few bales had been shipped to Liverpool. In Liberia I learned that the Manchester Cotton Association had sent medals and fifty pounds sterling as premiums, for the encouragement of the growth of the plant in that district. I learned also at Bonny that two bales, purchased at Rabba on the Niger, had been brought down by the Rainbow, attached to the Niger expedition, which is the first from that country. The captain reports he could have filled his ship with uncleaned cotton. The price of the cleaned was from three to four cents per pound, our currency, uncleaned about one cent. Another report said one hundred and fifteen pounds of cotton in the seed were bought for five and-a-half yards of cotton velvet and eight pounds of salt. There is plenty of raw cotton, and gins and presses are all that is required to produce a merchantable article. If the English persevere and the natives turn their attention to cotton, there is no calculating what the production might in time amount to; but there is this satisfaction for the American planter, the consumption is rapidly increasing, and there is not much fear of a surplus for years to come. The culture of the plant, as I have seen it in Algeria and the East Indies, cannot come in competition with the negro labor at the South; but we may rest assured that the British are using every means possible to have it produced, and make themselves less subject to our Southern King Cotton.

I must say something of a peculiar race of negroes on the African coast, who seem far superior to their fellows. They are the Kroomen, who make invaluable sailors for men of-war-and merchant vessels, and indeed are indispensable for all labor on shipboard, saving the white mariners from service and consequent fever. They are generally large, stalwart, well-formed men, obedient and industrious. They are shipped in Monrovia by vessels of war for the cruise, and receive from five to eight dollars per month, the chief as much as twelve dollars. In Sierra Leone, merchant vessels procure them for five dollars per month. Many of them understand a little English, and they could not be made slaves of without great difficulty. They rather look down with contempt upon common negroes. On shipboard they answer to the call of the roll. Some names given them are so ludicrous one can scarcely refrain from laughing when he hears them. Some bear the names of ships upon which they have sailed, and feel highly flattered in consequence, such as Constitution, Congress, Vincennes, Dale, &c., but the others, Up Side Down, Tom Bottle, Sunbeam, Main Mast, Main Hatch, Joe Propeller, Inside Out, Tar Bucket, Ash Bucket, Last One, Nothing New, and so on, display the extraordinary nomenclature conceived by the Jack Tars. When on duty ashore from men-of-war they wear blue woollen shirts and pants, but always on shipboard they have the privilege of the native waistcloth. They choose their chief, who is at the head of the gang, and whom they obey most rigidly. The Marion will land sixty or more at Monrovia before she leaves the coast for the United States, being the complement of two vessels. They save their money to increase the number of their wives.

The process of coaling here is of the slowest kind, and that of ballasting ships the same. The distance from the shore is considerable, and the manner of doing things is, as the Portuguese language describes it, poco-a-poco, little by little. The coal or ballast is put in at the rate of thirty-six tons per day, with baskets like good-sized soup dishes, passed from hand to hand, not unlike the old-fashioned system of handing buckets at a fire.

No freight of consequence is offering, as the disturbance in the country has checked the movement. Ordinarily elephants’ tusks, palm oil, gum, coffee, etc., are coming forward.

We are now in the height of midsummer, with the thermometer over a hundred. There is no such thing as restraining perspiration, except by the fever. What would one give for a cooling draught of ice water, and the other luxuries and comforts of a northern clime, which are not obtainable even at an advance of two hundred or three hundred per cent. We are looking forward to our deliverance from this heated atmosphere in a few days at least, and to be under motion, when some circulation will be produced.

The slow, backward Portuguese colony even requires strangers, as well as its own citizens, on leaving it to procure a passport, with all the formalities attending the same, at an expense of five dollars, without recognising the passport of one’s own country. This may be in part caused from apprehension of the escape of felons and soldiers, who are sent to this convict colony to expiate their crimes. I should think no worse punishment could be inflicted than a residence in such a climate.

CLXIV.

ISLAND OF SAN MIGUEL, AZORES, June 8, 1860.

In my last I informed you that I was on the eve of leaving the Portuguese province of Angola, on the south-west of Africa. I expected to reach the Cape de Verde Island in time to catch the English steamer for Lisbon, but arrived two days too late.

We stopped at the town of Ambriz, in the Congo territory, now the seat of war between the Portuguese and the blacks, and found the residents in great consternation from the recent successes of the negroes. A war vessel had just arrived with fresh troops.

We then proceeded to the island of San Tomé, one of the volcanic group consisting of that, Prince’s and Fernando Po, which for fertility, magnificent mountain scenery, and beautiful tropical forests can scarcely be surpassed, producing the choicest coffee and fruits in abundance, but occupied mostly by the dark race, with small numbers of Portuguese colonists, the former indolent as usual unless force is exercised, and the latter lethargic from the oppressive heat and afflicted with fevers--otherwise, these islands might be considered perfect gems of the ocean.

On the ninth day we left San Tomé for Porto Praya, Cape de Verdes. Our complement of passengers had now reached fifteen, including one white lady. Our ship reminded me of Noah’s ark, as we had such a variety of animals and birds on board, either as supplies, or belonging to passengers bound to Portugal and carrying specimens of the brute creation occupying the countries they came from, not forgetting a few negro boys and girls, from six to seven years old, as presents to friends, which seem to be classed in the same category, as they cost from ten dollars to fifteen dollars each. For a voyage of twenty to thirty days in a large screw steamer of only fifty horse power, relying upon wind as well as steam, the auxiliary force being only four or five miles per hour, it was necessary to provide abundantly, and we had oxen, sheep, goats, chickens, turkeys and guinea fowls. The rigging and chain about the boats suspended on the sides were hung with green bananas to ripen, and vegetables of different kinds. A full supply of limes, oranges, and other tropical fruit was also laid in. A part of our upper deck or promenade was monopolized with bird cages containing hundreds of every color and variety. The main deck had its share of baboons, gazelles, monkeys, and parrots. It was a menagerie in itself, and it required at first strong nerves to accustom one’s self to the chattering, chirping, singing, and other vocal sounds of such a mixed tribe. Little by little they, like passengers at the outset of a voyage, got quieted down, and were rather a source of amusement than an annoyance.

I was fortunate in obtaining a large and airy cabin, or state-room, to myself, which made the long passage more supportable, as most of our passengers were suffering from debility on account of the climate, or from the effects of fever. I was still a martyr to the African boils, but recovered from them as soon as we reached cooler latitudes. One of our passengers, whom we took in at San Tomé, died before reaching here, and his remains were thrown overboard. It was the result of prostration caused by long residence in an enervating climate.

Our supplies of all kinds were abundant, but a bad Portuguese cook was a source of vexation to all; for in no position is the exercise of the culinary art more desirable than on shipboard, where travellers are deprived of their usual exercise, and the stomach and digestive organs are most sensitive.

Our passage to Porto Praya, one of the Cape de Verdes, was a fair one, say nineteen days, but a delay of five days, taking in coffee and sugar, caused me the loss of the English steamer, which would have taken me direct to Portugal in seven days. The disappointment was great, as the strong trade winds from the north-east were blowing, making a prospect of another twenty days’ sailing; it must be submitted to, however, as in these parts of the world we cannot choose our conveyance and embark when we please, as in the United States.

Porto Praya has hitherto been the naval station for the American cruisers; and although a small town, situated upon a high, arid bluff, with bleak and dreary mountains in the background, it has its redeeming qualities in fruitful palm, banana, and coffee groves in the valleys, which induced the American officers, after a long cruise in the scorching climate of the coast, to call it the paradise of the African station.

Porto Grande, or St. Vincent, our next island, possesses an excellent harbor, of great size. Here we found a steamer coaling for China, and another for Java. The English have large coal yards here, and the iron launches and little tug steamers give every dispatch, quite like England. The contrast between the energy of the races could be seen at a glance.

As I apprehended, the strong head winds, which we could not resist, have carried us to the west, and we found ourselves short of coal, and our supplies so much reduced that we made for the Azores. It is, however, worth the delay of a few days to visit this beautiful and highly cultivated island. Its population is dense, and exceedingly industrious. The town of Punta Delgada contains twelve thousand inhabitants, is well built of stone, its streets well paved, is favorably situated in a rainy latitude, and produces most exuberantly. The exportation of oranges to England keeps a large number of vessels employed during the fruit season. The Quintas, or estates of the nobility which I have visited, are magnificent, and would not disgrace the parks and gardens of some of the small princes of Europe. The immense variety of flowers in bloom, the fountains of water, the close cultivation to the very summit of the hills upon this isolated spot, and the general amount of production rather took us by surprise, particularly as our last port, St. Vincent, was entirely barren, with scarcely a sign of vegetation; and the time before, when we touched there on our way to Brazil, some years since, we landed famine supplies, as half the population had died from starvation.

Our prospects now are for an early arrival in Lisbon, and I hope in the course of five or six days to be in direct correspondence with Europe and America, and shall rejoice in having accomplished a long and perilous African trip, without any desire to repeat the same.

THE END.

Transcriber’s Notes:

1. Obvious printers’, punctuation and spelling errors have been corrected silently.

2. Some hyphenated and non-hyphenated versions of the same words have been retained as in the original.

3. Superscripts are represented using the caret character, e.g. D^r. or X^{xx}.

4. Italics are shown as xxx.

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