The Gastronomic Regenerator: A Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery With Nearly Two Thousand Practical Receipts Suited to the Income of All Classes (part 3 of 6)

The Gastronomic Regenerator: A Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery With Nearly Two Thousand Practical Receipts Suited to the Income of All Classes (part 3 of 6)

Have four palates prepared, which cut into thirty pieces with a round cutter, the size of a shilling, dip each piece into sauce, but a little thinner than above, and lay them on a dish to cool; cut twenty pieces of dressed tongue of the same size, and twenty slices of large truffles, with twenty of mushrooms, then have eight small silver skewers (or attelets), upon which place the pieces of palates, placing either a slice of tongue, truffle, or mushroom between each; when you have stuck them all on the skewers, have a little of the sauce you dipped the palates in, spread a little over the crevices between to make them look like one, dip each attelet in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, and fry a nice colour in hot lard; dress them three at the bottom, then three above, the reverse of the others to form a square, and the other two across, garnish with plenty of fried parsley, and serve very hot.

No. 656. Palates de Bœuf à la Vivandière.

Proceed, fry, and dress them as directed for à la ravigote; serve with the following sauce: chop two large onions very fine and put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, place them over the fire, keeping stirred till they become rather yellow, then pour off as much butter as you can; add a glass of port wine and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, let simmer five minutes, add twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce and six of consommé (No. 134), reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, season with a little cayenne pepper and sugar, pour the sauce in the centre and round your palates, have a good handful of fried parsley, which place in a pyramid in the centre, and serve very hot.

No. 657. Turban de Palate de Bœuf au gratin.

Prepare four palates of beef as before, which cut into twelve oval pieces, have ready some forcemeat (No. 120), place a little on the bottom of a sauté-pan in a circle (the size you require your entrée), then cover each piece of palate with the remainder, and dress them in a crown upon the forcemeat in the sauté-pan; egg and bread-crumb, place them in a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour, if getting too much colour cover some paper over; when done, detach it from the sauté-pan with a thin long knife, and with a fish-slice remove it into your dish, sauce over with a sauce Italienne (No. 30), and serve. Should you have a silver dish for au gratins, it would be preferable to dress it upon that, as it would not require moving.

No. 658. Vol-au-vent de Palates de Bœuf.

Make a vol-au-vent as described (No. 1140), have ready prepared four palates, which cut into pieces with a round cutter the size of half-a-crown, put them into a stewpan with ten mushrooms, a quart of white sauce (No. 7), and six spoonfuls of white stock; when boiling, add a bunch of parsley, let simmer on the corner of the stove half an hour, skim, take out the parsley if too thick, add a little more stock, throw in a pat of butter, a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, sugar, and a little lemon-juice, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, let it set over the fire, but not boil, fill the vol-au-vent and serve.

It may be served also in a casserole of rice (No. 626), or flat, as a blanquette, in an entrée-dish garnished with croutons of bread.

No. 659. Palates de Bœuf en Papillote.

Have prepared four palates, which cut into twelve oval pieces, put two tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in a deep sauté-pan, with four of chopped onions, stir with a wooden spoon five minutes over a sharp fire, then pour off as much of the oil as possible, add a quart of white sauce (No. 7), a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one of chopped mushrooms, with six of white stock, boil altogether five minutes, keeping it stirred; add a little grated nutmeg, then put in your pieces of palates, boil a few minutes longer, and turn the whole on a dish to get cold; finish dressing, and serve as directed for aiguillettes de langue de bœuf (No. 643).

No. 660. Turban de Tête de Veau en Tortue.

Cook and prepare a calf’s head as directed in the Removes (No. 462); only for entrees you must cut much smaller pieces, and of course you require a much smaller quantity of sauce. I have merely repeated it here to show that it may be served as an entrée; but great care must be taken in boiling the head, for if not done enough it is not eatable, and if done too much it would be impossible to dress them on your dish. Care must also be taken in dishing up to make it look graceful, and it cannot be served too hot.

No. 661. Turban de Tête de Veau à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Prepare your calf’s head as in the last, and dress the pieces in crown upon mashed potatoes, have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with eight spoonfuls of good white stock, boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred, add two ounces of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), very highly seasoned, let it melt, but do not let the sauce boil after the butter is in, sauce over and serve immediately.

No. 662. Turban de Tête de Veau à la Hollandaise.

Prepare and dish the calf’s head as before, serve with a sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) over it.

No. 663. Turban de Tête de Veau à la Poulette.

Prepare and dish as before, have ready the following sauce: put half a pint of white sauce (No. 7) with a pint of white stock, thirty small button-onions, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf, tied together, into a stewpan, simmer at the corner of the stove nearly an hour, skim and take out the bunch of herbs, then with a colander-spoon take out the onions, which put in a clean stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass through a tammie over the onions, add twelve nice white blanched mushrooms, set again on the fire, and when nearly boiling, add a liaison of one yolk of egg (mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream), stir in quickly, place over the fire another minute, keeping it stirred, but do not let it boil, add a little lemon-juice and chopped parsley, sauce over and serve immediately.

No. 664. Turban de Tête de Veau à l’Indienne.

Prepare and dress the head as usual, and serve with a sauce à l’Indienne (No. 45).

Great care should be taken in choosing Indian pickles, no sort are of any service in cooking but the green prickly sort, when good they are milder eating, a good flavour, and firm to the touch, but if very hot and soft they are fit for nothing whatever.

Calf’s head may be served for entrées dressed as directed with sauce currie (No. 46), and rice, separate, or sauce poivrade, piquante, or tomates (Nos. 32, 27 and 37).

No. 665. Oreilles de Veau farci.

It requires four ears to make an entrée, trim rather small and set them in warm water to disgorge for several hours, then prepare a white stock like for calf’s head (No. 459), put them in and stew for an hour or more till tender, leave them to get cold in their stock, then take half a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), to which add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms; mix altogether with the yolk of an egg, take out the ears, which dry on a cloth, fill the inside with the forcemeat but not too full, have some eggs well beaten in a basin, dip the ears in, then throw them into bread-crumbs, fry in lard but not too hot as the forcemeat takes some time to cook, dress upon mashed potatoes on your dish and serve a sauce aux fines herbes (No. 26) under them.

No. 666. Oreilles de Veau en marinade.

Cook the ears as above, but do not stuff them, cut each ear in five or six pieces the long way, and put them in a basin with pepper, salt, two onions in slices, a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, eight cloves, three spoonfuls of vinegar, and two of oil; let them remain six hours or more, then take out the pieces of ear, wipe each piece with a cloth, have ready some batter (No. 1285), dip the pieces in separately, let them be covered in every part, and drop them into hot lard, they will take five minutes to fry, dress them on a dish with a sauce au jus de tomates (No. 12) under them; garnish with fried parsley and serve. Two ears will be sufficient for the above.

No. 667. Langues de Veau aux champignons.

Procure four tongues, which put in warm water to disgorge, then put them in a stewpan, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, two bay-leaves, one blade of mace, and six cloves; cover with white broth or water, if water add a scrag of veal, half a pound of lean ham, and a little salt; place on the fire, and when it commences boiling skim it and place it at the corner of the stove till the tongues are done, which you can ascertain by pricking them with a packing-needle; if it goes in easy they are done; take them up and peel off the skin, cut each tongue into three slices of the shape of cotelettes, dress them in a crown upon mashed potatoes, glaze well, and serve with a sauce aux champignons (No. 52). If the tongues are boiled the day previous, warm them as directed langue de bœuf (No. 644).

Calves’ tongues dressed this way may also be served with sauce à la jardinière (No. 100), sauce piquante, or sauce poivrade (Nos. 27 and 32).

No. 668. Calves’ Brains.

Procure two sets of brains, leave them four hours in water to disgorge, take off the skin which covers them, and put them in a stewpan, with a pint of water, one wineglass of vinegar, some salt, two onions sliced, a carrot, a few cloves, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; let boil gently from twenty minutes to half an hour, take them up, lay on a cloth, and cut each one in halves, place them in the dish and serve with a sauce Hollandaise (No. 66), matelote (No. 62), maître d’hôtel (No. 43), or piquante (No. 27), or beurre noir (No. 306).

No. 669. Queues de Veau à la Ravigote.

Four calves’ tails are quite sufficient for an entrée, procure them as large and as white as possible; cut them in pieces an inch and a quarter in length, and put them into a stewpan, with a quart of good white stock, two onions, half a carrot, head of celery, three cloves, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; set on the fire to boil, skim, and place it at the corner to simmer for two hours, or until the tails are done, which you can tell by pressing them with your finger, drain them on a cloth, lay a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your entrée dish, stand the larger pieces perpendicularly upon it, then again other pieces upon them, till they form a pyramid; have ready a good ravigote sauce (No. 44), rather highly seasoned, which pour over and serve; the sauce should be thick enough to adhere to the pieces.

No. 670. Queues de Veau à la Poulette.

Cook and dress the tails as before, and sauce as directed for turban de tête de veau à la poulette (No. 663).

No. 671. Of Sweetbreads.

The middle-sized heart-breads are to be preferred to the over large or small, the throat-bread is rarely used to dress and serve whole, but may be served in blanquettes, vol-au-vents, or ragouts. Sweetbreads cannot be too white, if red when brought in leave them four or five hours in warm water to disgorge, put them in a stewpan well covered with water to blanch, (if you put them in cold water they will be blanched enough as soon as the water begins to boil), throw them a minute in cold water, then lay them on a dish face downwards, place the bottom of another dish upon them, on which place a four pounds weight, they are then ready for use where directed; three sweetbreads are sufficient for an entrée if rather large, and four if small.

No. 672. Ris de Veau à la Santa Cruz.

Take three good sweetbreads, blanch as directed, then lard them (with very thin strips of fat bacon an inch and a half in length) from top to bottom an inch and a half in width, and again from one side to the other to form a cross; have thirty-six pieces of truffles cut in the shape of cloves, but much thicker and rather longer, (twelve for each sweetbread), make a hole with a larding-needle in the centre of the cross in which place a piece of the truffle, proceeding in like manner in the centre of the bacon at equal distances apart, cover the bottom of a flat stewpan with fat bacon, lay the sweetbreads upon it, cover the bottom of the stewpan about the depth of two inches with stock, place it over the fire till the stock boils, put it in the oven about half an hour will be sufficient to cook them, (but that depends upon their size and the heat of the oven,) try them with a larding-needle, if quite tender through they are done; but if soft in the middle and toughish leave them a little longer, glaze them lightly and salamander a nice gold colour, drain them on a cloth and have ready the following sauce: blanch one ounce of riband macaroni in water till tender, dry, and put it in a stewpan, with ten spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and two of tomata sauce (No. 37), with a piece of glaze, reduce till rather thick, then add twenty heads of mushrooms and two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese; season with a little sugar and cayenne, pour the sauce in your dish, dress the sweetbreads over and serve very hot.

No. 673. Ris de Veau piqué à la Turque.

Blanch four small heart-sweetbreads as directed, and lard them nicely from end to end lengthwise, with fat bacon an inch and a half in length, and breadth in proportion, braise as directed in the last; have ready a ring of forcemeat (No. 120) made in a round plain mould[7] well buttered, with a round piece of bread in the centre; lay the forcemeat round the bread an inch and a half in thickness, place the mould in a stewpan of boiling water, (but do not let the water get into the mould), place the stewpan over the fire till the forcemeat is set, then take it out, detach the bread from the centre and turn out the forcemeat, which will be a complete ring, place it on the dish, cut each of the sweetbreads in halves and dress them upon it, the cut part towards the middle; then have ready blanched half a pound of good rice as directed (No. 129), put it in a stewpan, with six pats of butter, two spoonfuls of cream, a little saffron powder, pepper, salt, and sugar; mix all together and dress in pyramid in the centre, place a fine (dressed) cockscomb between each half sweetbread, sauce over the rice with sauce au suprème (No. 57), glaze the sweetbreads and serve.

No. 674. Ris de Veau piqué à la Financière.

Blanch, lard, and braise three sweetbreads as before; have ready a ragout à la financière (No. 50), which pour in the dish, dress your sweetbreads over, glaze lightly and serve.

No. 675. Ris de Veau piqué à la purée d’asperges.

Blanch, lard, and braise three sweetbreads as before, but keep them a more delicate colour and drain them well upon a cloth; when you take them from the stewpan have ready a purée of asparagus (No. 102), which pour into the dish, dress the sweetbreads over and serve.

Larded sweetbreads may be also served with a truffle sauce (No. 51), Palestine, jardinière, aux concombres, dressed spinach, or endive (see Nos. 87, 100, 103, 106, and 119.)

No. 676. Ris de Veau rôti.

Heart-sweetbreads are also preferable for roasting, although the throat-breads may be used; blanch as before and let them cool, place them in a stewpan, with two onions, two cloves, a blade of mace, a carrot, quarter of a pound of lean ham, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, just cover with a good stock, and place them on the fire to boil twenty minutes, take them out, dry on a cloth, egg and bread-crumb them twice over, then run a long flat skewer through them lengthwise, which tie up on a spit, roast before a fierce fire till they become a nice light brown, keeping them basted with butter; pass the stock they were boiled in through a sieve into another stewpan, boil and skim well, place the sweetbreads in a dish, pour some of the stock round and serve; it may also be served with sauce piquante, poivrade, or tomata (Nos. 27, 32, 37).

No. 677. Caisse de ris de Veau à la Ninon de l’Enclos.

Roast four sweetbreads as directed in the last, and let them remain till cold, then open and empty them, thus making a case, leaving it a quarter of an inch in thickness; cut up what you have taken from them in slices, have also twenty small pieces of cucumber, prepared as directed for sauce (No. 103), put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a very small piece of butter, pass over the fire a few minutes, but keep them quite white, then add three parts of a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and a little milk, reduce till thickish, keeping it stirred, add the sweetbread and cucumber, season with a little sugar and salt, and when it boils add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with half a gill of cream; do not let it boil afterwards, fill the cases and cover the opening with a little very thick fritter butter (No. 1285), place them in a sharp oven, and as soon as the batter is baked sufficient, dress them on your dish, three at the bottom and one on the top; serve with a thin bechamel sauce (No. 7) under.

No. 678. Escalopes de Ris de Veau au suprème.

Blanch three sweetbreads twenty minutes, and when cold cut each bread into four slices lengthwise, and trim in the shape of fillets of fowl, well butter the bottom of a sauté-pan, lay in the escalopes, keeping them in their shapes, season over with a little white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, place over a slow fire, ten minutes will be sufficient to cook them; when done on one side turn, keep them quite white, lay them on a cloth to drain, and dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes; serve with a sauce au suprème (No. 57) poured over.

No. 679. Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux pointes d’asperges.

Dress three sweetbreads as in the last, and serve a sauce aux pointes d’asperges (No. 101) in the centre.

No. 680. Escalopes de Ris de Veau à l’Indienne.

Dress three sweetbreads as in the two last, but keep them rather underdone; when cold egg and bread-crumb them twice over, put six spoonfuls of oil in a sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when hot lay in the escalopes, which fry a nice light brown colour, dress in a crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a nice white Indian sauce (No. 45) in the centre, previously glazing the escalopes lightly.

No. 681. Escalopes de Ris de Veau en caisses.

Blanch four throat-sweetbreads, and cut them in slices one size larger and three times the thickness of a shilling, butter the bottom of a sauté-pan and put in two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots, lay the pieces of sweetbread over, season with a little salt and pepper, and place them over a slow fire; when done add a spoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), a little glaze, half a pint of broth, a little powdered sugar and grated nutmeg; let simmer altogether ten minutes, moving them round by shaking the sauté-pan, have six or eight small paper boxes, or cases, fill each of them three parts full with the above, egg the top with a paste-brush, sprinkle bread-crumbs over and place them in a warm oven twenty minutes, pass the salamander over, dress them in pyramid on your dish, and serve with plenty of fried parsley.

No. 682. Atelettes de Ris de Veau.

Prepare the sweetbreads precisely as in the last, but add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with four tablespoonfuls of cream, and leave them to get cold in the sauce, have six silver skewers (atelettes), and run six or eight pieces of sweetbread upon each, with as much sauce as possible adhering to them, smooth round with a knife, dip them in eggs well beaten in a basin, then into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a knife, dip them again into the bread-crumbs, fry in hot lard, dress them as described for atelettes de palates de bœuf (No. 655), and serve a sauce Italienne (No. 30) under.

No. 683. Blanquette de Ris de Veau aux truffes.

Blanch three throat-sweetbreads twenty minutes, cut them in slices the size and double the thickness of half-crown-pieces, cut also into thin slices six good-sized truffles, then put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots in a convenient-sized stewpan, with a small piece of butter, pass them a few minutes over a sharp fire, keeping them quite white, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce three minutes, then add the sweetbread and truffles, season with a little salt and sugar, simmer gently five minutes, finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with half a gill of cream, pour it out in your dish and garnish with eight large triangular croutons of bread (in the form of a star) fried in butter, which glaze and serve.

No. 684. Vol-au-vent de Ris de Veau.

Make a vol-au-vent as directed (No. 1140), cook two sweetbreads with truffles as in the last, and when ready to serve fill your vol-au-vent, which glaze lightly and serve very hot.

Sweetbreads may also be served either in blanquettes or vol-au-vents, with cucumbers, stewed mushrooms, slices of tongue or ham, instead of truffles.

No. 685. Of Tendrons de Veau.

For one entrée you will require the tendrons from two breasts of veal, which are cut out without injuring the breasts, and afterwards stewed (see breast of veal in the Removes); tie the two tendrons together and put them in a deep stewpan, with two carrots, four onions, six cloves, a good bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; cover with a second stock, place them on the fire, and when boiling draw it on the corner, skim, and let stew gently for six or seven hours; when done (which you may ascertain by running the point of your knife through them, if tender they are done, if not stew them till they are,) lay them on a dish, take away the string, pull out the small bones which may remain, and place another dish of the same size upon them, on which place a seven pounds weight; when quite cold and set, cut twelve pieces out of them either of an oval or diamond shape, but not too large, egg and bread-crumb the sides but not the edges twice over, and fry them gently of a light-brown colour in a sauté-pan. Serve with any of the sauces directed for the sweetbreads.

No. 686. Tendrons de Veau à la Noble Dame.

Prepare two tendrons as before, and when quite cold cut out twelve pieces of any shape you please, but one third less than in the previous article, put a quart of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with six spoonfuls of white stock and two of chopped mushrooms; reduce till thick enough to cover the back of the spoon, take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, take your pieces of tendrons one at a time with a fork, dip them in the sauce so that they are covered on every part, and lay them on a dish to get cold; have ready some fritter batter (No. 1285), dip each piece of tendron with as much sauce as adheres to it, and fry in very hot lard, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, fill the centre with fried watercresses, for sauce put a gill of cream in a stewpan, and when boiling add two pats of butter and a little salt; when the butter is quite melted sauce round and serve.

No. 687. Tendrons de Veau à la Dauphine.

Proceed precisely as in the last, but instead of dipping them in the batter, egg and bread-crumb twice over and fry in very hot lard of a fine yellow colour; serve with a sauce tomate (No. 37) poured round.

No. 688. Cotelettes de Veau piqué aux petits pois.

Veal cotelettes require to be cut from the neck in the same shape as mutton cutlets, four are sufficient for an entrée, they must be very nicely larded on one side, like a sweetbread, braise in the same kind of manner until very tender, glaze lightly, and salamander of a light-brown colour; have ready boiled a pint of young peas, which put in a stewpan, with two pats of butter, a little salt, and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; when boiling finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream, pour into the dish and dress the cotelettes over in a square, glaze lightly and serve; dressed in the above manner they may also be served with sauce à la jardinière, aux navets au brun, aux pointes d’asperges, aux concombres, sauce poivrade, or sauce tomate.

No. 689. Cotelettes de Veau en papillote.

Cut six small veal cotelettes, do not lard them, put six tablespoonfols of oil in a sauté-pan, in which fry the cotelettes; when done pour off a little of the oil, put four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, one of chopped parsley, one of chopped mushrooms, and twenty of brown sauce (No. 1) seasoned rather high, moisten with a little stock and simmer altogether twenty minutes, place the cotelettes on a dish in the sauce to get cold, cut six pieces of paper in the shape of hearts, oil them, and put a cotelette in each with as much of the sauce as possible around, fold each one up, plaiting it at the edges, broil them twenty minutes over a slow fire, and dress them in a circle on your dish without removing the papers.

No. 690. Cotelettes de Veau à la Sans Façon.

Cut four large cotelettes, which season well, dip them in a basin containing two eggs well beaten, then throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, in which you have mixed some finely chopped eschalots and parsley, beat them with your knife, dip them into warm clarified butter, and again into the bread-crumbs, beat again with your knife, and broil them nicely over a sharp fire; have in a stewpan six or eight well boiled mealy potatoes, add four pats of butter and a little pepper and salt, mash them well with a fork, adding a gill of cream by degrees, mixing quickly they will be very light, dress them in a pyramid on your dish, glaze the cotelettes, which stand upright against the potatoes, and serve; this is an excellent dish for luncheon.

No. 691. Noix de Veau for Entrées.

Are prepared exactly in the same manner as described for the flancs (No. 565), only they are not required so large, half the noix being quite sufficient, that is, cut into two slices, trim it of a nice shape, lard, dress, and serve, with the sauces as described for the flancs.

No. 692. Grenadins de Veau piqué aux racines nouvelles.

Cut twelve fillets from a noix de veau the size and shape of fillets of fowl, lard them nicely with very finely cut bacon, cover the bottom of a convenient-sized sauté-pan with thin slices of fat bacon, upon which lay the grenadins, add a little veal stock but not enough to cover them, place a sheet of buttered paper over and stand them in a moderate oven for an hour or till tender, moistening occasionally with a little of the stock; when done glaze them lightly and salamander of a light colour, then have prepared twenty young carrots and twenty young turnips, which cook as directed (No. 109), dish the grenadins in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, place a pyramid of the potatoes in the centre of the dish, upon which dress the carrots and turnips in rotation; have ready the following sauce: put the glaze from your vegetables in a stewpan, with half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and a little good stock, place it on the fire, skim, and reduce until rather thick; sauce over your vegetables and serve.

Grenadins may be served with any of the sauces as described for noix de veau or sweetbreads.

No: 693. Of Veal Kidneys.

The kidney being part of the loin is usually served with it, and a loin of veal roasted without it would be considered worthless, but still the loins may be dressed, as directed in the Removes, without the kidneys; to stew them proceed as follows: cut three kidneys into thin slices, put an ounce of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan, place over the fire, and just as it begins to get brown throw in the kidneys, stir them over the fire with a wooden spoon, and when they become firm add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir it in, then add a glass of sherry, eight spoonfuls of broth, and twenty mushrooms, let all boil together five minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the juice of half a lemon, if too thick add more broth, pour them on a dish and serve, or they would look better served in a croustade of bread (No. 416) fried a nice yellow colour.

No. 694. Veal Kidneys en Caisses.

Proceed exactly as described for ris de veau en caisses (No. 681).

No. 695. Boudin de Veau à la Legumière.

Make two pounds of veal forcemeat as directed (No. 120), cover the sides of a plain round mould with vegetables, precisely as directed for a Chartreuse (No. 604), then cut a piece of bread quite round, the depth of the mould, cover the bread with white buttered paper, and stand it in the centre of the mould,[8] leaving the space of an inch and a half all round, which fill up with the forcemeat, being careful not to disarrange the vegetables; when well filled, put the mould in a stewpan, cover with a piece of stiff paper, put water enough in the stewpan to come three parts of the way up the mould, place the stewpan over the fire and let it simmer gently (keeping it covered) nearly an hour, turn it out on your dish, take the bread and paper from the centre, sauce over with a good demi-glace (No. 9), and serve.

No. 696. Boudin de Veau à la Richelieu.

Butter a plain round mould rather thickly, have five or six good-sized truffles chopped very fine, throw them in the mould, which roll round until the sides are quite covered with them; then prepare a piece of bread as in the last, fill the space up with the same forcemeat, blanch it in a stewpan as before, turn out on your dish, take away the bread, and serve with a sauce Périgueux (No. 55) over it.

No. 697. Of Mutton for Entreés.

For entrées the small South Down mutton is much to be preferred, the principal entrées made from mutton are cotelettes, which never will be out of vogue; I shall therefore give a numerous list of receipts for the dressing of them, but the manner of cutting them requires particular attention; the most simple method is to take the chine-bone off from the neck neatly with a saw, but not quite detaching all the meat from the bone, then cut it into chops, leaving a bone to each; with a knife cut off the skinny part from each side of the bone and a piece of the meat at the end of the bone, so as to leave a piece of bone about half an inch in length, then with a cotelette-bat beat them nearly to the same thickness as the bone, take the rough parts of the bone off with your chopper, and trim the cotelettes of a good shape, taking off a greater part of the fat and rounding the lean part nicely; but in cutting cotelettes to look well, much depends upon the taste of the person, they require to be cut some time previous to cooking, or they would shrink and loose their shape.

No. 698. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Reform.

Chop a quarter of a pound of lean cooked ham very fine, and mix it with the same quantity of bread-crumbs, then have ten very nice cotelettes, lay them flat on your table, season lightly with pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, and throw them into the ham and bread-crumbs, then beat them lightly with a knife, put ten spoonfuls of oil in a sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when quite hot lay in the cotelettes, fry nearly ten minutes (over a moderate fire) of a light brown colour; to ascertain when done, press your knife upon the thick part, if quite done it will feel rather firm; possibly they may not all be done at one time, so take out those that are ready first and lay them on a cloth till the others are done; as they require to be cooked with the gravy in them, dress upon a thin border of mashed potatoes in a crown, with the bones pointing outwards, sauce over with a pint of the sauce reform (No. 35), and serve. If for a large dinner you may possibly be obliged to cook the cotelettes half an hour before, in which case they must be very underdone, and laid in a clean sauté-pan, with two or three spoonfuls of thin glaze; keep them in the hot closet, moistening them occasionally with the glaze (with a paste-brush) until ready to serve; the same remark applies to every description of cotelettes.

No. 699. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Vicomtesse.

Cut, bread-crumb, and fry ten mutton cotelettes as in the last, but let them be rather underdone, then have ready six large quenelles of veal (No. 120) quite cold, mash them in a basin with a wooden spoon, then add a teaspoonful of very finely chopped eschalots, two of chopped parsley, and a little grated nutmeg, with a tablespoonful of cold white sauce (No. 7) and the yolk of an egg; mix all well together, and put a piece of the size of a walnut upon each cotelette, spread it even, then have ten thin small slices of cooked ham, place a slice upon each cotelette, which again cover with the forcemeat, forming a flattish dome, but not too thick; egg over with a paste-brush, sprinkle with bread-crumbs, put again into the sauté-pan, and place them in a moderate oven ten minutes, salamander a light colour, dress in crown on a thin border of mashed potatoes, and have ready the following sauce: put two yolks of eggs in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of vinegar from India pickles, and a little lemon-juice, stir it quickly over the fire with a wooden spoon until beginning to thicken, then add ten tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7) with four of milk, stir over the fire, but do not let it boil, then pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, stir it another minute over the fire, sauce over, have two firm green India pickles and half an ounce of lean cooked ham chopped very fine, which sprinkle over and serve very hot.

No. 700. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Westphalienne.

Prepare ten cotelettes as in the last, mixing chopped Westphalia ham with the bread-crumbs instead of the common ham, likewise sprinkling ham over the forcemeat instead of bread-crumbs, place them in the oven as before, and salamander a nice colour, dress in crown as in the last, and have ready the following sauce: pound a quarter of a pound of lean Westphalia cooked ham very fine, add two ounces of butter and pass it through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, then put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan with six spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134) and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; reduce and skim till becoming a good demi-glace, add two tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce, a little sugar, and the butter with the ham, stir over the fire until the butter is melted, sauce over and serve.

No. 701. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Provençale.

Have ready ten cotelettes, season with a little pepper and salt, egg with a paste-brush, and dip them into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a knife and fry in oil, but very much underdone, lay them on a cloth, and have ready the following: chop six middling-sized onions very fine and put them in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, pass them over a moderate fire ten minutes, keeping stirred with a wooden spoon, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and four tablespoonfuls of good stock, boil altogether a quarter of an hour or till the onions are quite tender, season with a little pepper, salt, and nearly a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, draw the stewpan off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs, place over the fire another minute, pour it out on a dish to get cold, place a piece the size of a large walnut upon each cotelette, spread it over with a knife, leaving it thickest in the middle; egg them with a paste-brush, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, drop a little oil on each, put them in the same sauté-pan, place in the oven ten minutes, salamander a light brown, and dress them on your dish as before; have ready the following sauce: put nearly a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, and eight spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134); reduce and skim well till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little scraped garlic the size of a couple of peas, sauce over and serve; more garlic may be added if approved of.

No. 702. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Bohémienne.

Have twelve good cotelettes well-trimmed, lay them in a basin and pour a quart of good marinade hot over them (see filet de bœuf à la Bohémienne, No. 426), let them remain four or five days, turning them occasionally; when wanted take them out, dry on a cloth, dip in flour and broil them quickly over a sharp fire, dress in crown like the cotelettes reform, and have ready the following sauce: a gill of the marinade in a stewpan, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), six of brown sauce, and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, reduce till it becomes half glaze again, then add a spoonful of red-currant jelly, three anchovies well washed, and cut into small diamond-shaped pieces, also twenty pieces of gherkins cut in the same shape, let warm in the sauce, which pour over and serve. The cotelettes may be bread-crumbed if required.

No. 703. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Soubise.

Prepare twelve cotelettes, season with a little pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, and throw them into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a knife, and fry them in clarified butter in a sauté-pan, dress on your dish as before, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) under, glaze lightly when dressing them on your dish.

No. 704. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Durcelle.

Egg, bread-crumb, and fry twelve cotelettes in oil, when done take out and lay them on a cloth, put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots and two of chopped onions in the sauté-pan, fry them a light brown colour, pour off as much oil as possible, add half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and a little consommé, let boil quickly ten minutes, then add a little sugar, cayenne pepper, half a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, the same of chopped parsley, and one teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, put the cotelettes into the sauce to get hot, have ready four paper cases six inches long, lay three cotelettes in each, pour the sauce over, place them in a moderate oven ten minutes, dress on your dish in the cases and serve immediately.

No. 705. Cotelettes de Mouton aux petites racines.

Prepare and fry twelve cotelettes as directed for cotelettes à la Soubise, dress in crown and proceed as for the grenadins de veau (No. 692), glaze them lightly and serve.

No. 706. Cotelettes de Mouton sauce piquante.

Dress the cotelettes as above, glaze lightly and serve with sauce piquante (No. 27) over them.

No. 707. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Jardinière.

Dress twelve cotelettes as before described, dish as usual, have ready a sauce jardinière (No. 100), place the vegetables, and sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes lightly, and serve.

No. 708. Cotelettes de Mouton aux champignons.

Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as in the last, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, with a little consommé, reduce it a little, and skim; then add thirty mushrooms, season with a little pepper and sugar, add a small piece of glaze half the size of a walnut, and boil altogether ten minutes; pour the sauce in the middle of the cotelettes, which glaze and serve.

No. 709. Cotelettes de Mouton aux navets au brun.

Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as in the last, have prepared forty scoops of turnips, each the size of a marble, put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, and a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over a fire ten minutes, keeping them tossed, to prevent their burning, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and half a do. of consommé, stand it on the corner of the stove, skim well, and let it remain till the turnips are tender, and the sauce becomes rather thick; then pour it in the centre of the cotelettes, which glaze and serve; should the turnips be done before the sauce is thick, take them out with a colander spoon until it has sufficiently reduced.

No. 710. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Palestine.

Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as before, have ready the following sauce: scoop forty scoops of Jerusalem artichokes the size of the turnips in the last, and proceed exactly the same, using white sauce (No. 7), and white stock instead of brown, and finishing with a good tablespoonful of liaison; serve as before; they must not be boiled too quickly, or they will break to pieces.

No. 711. Cotelettes de Mouton aux pointes d’asperges.

Prepare and dress the cotelettes as before, have ready boiled, very green, half a bundle of sprue grass cut into pieces a quarter of an inch in length, put eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), with four of white stock in a stewpan, and when a little reduced add the sprue, with half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a little salt; let boil a minute, and finish with a liaison of half a yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, sauce in the centre of the cotelettes, which glaze lightly, and serve. When sprue grass is cheap, dress it thus for cotelettes: you have cut and boiled a bunch very green; drain it upon a sieve, and whilst hot put them into a stewpan, with six pats of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and the half of one of sugar; place over the fire, stirring round gently until the butter is melted, then dress them in a pyramid in the centre of the cotelettes, pour a thin bechamel sauce round, glaze the cotelettes, and serve. By this simple method you retain the full flavour of the grass.

No. 712. Cotelettes de Mouton aux haricots verts.

Proceed exactly as before, using some French beans cut in diamonds and nicely boiled, instead of the sprue grass, dress the beans in either of the above methods.

No. 713. Cotelettes de Mouton aux petits pois.

Dress and dish your cotelettes as usual, have ready, nicely boiled, a pint of young peas (No. 1075) which put in a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter, two spoonfuls of white sauce, a bunch of green onions, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt; keep them moving over the fire by shaking the stewpan till they are quite hot; take out the onions, finish with a liaison of a yolk of egg and two tablespoonfuls of cream, dress the peas in the centre, glaze the cotelettes, and serve. The peas may also be dressed in either of the methods directed in the two last.

No. 714. Cotelettes de Mouton aux chouxfleurs.

Dress the cotelettes as before, have nicely boiled two small cauliflowers, put ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a teaspoonful of sugar and a little salt; divide each cauliflower into eight pieces, and when the sauce boils add them to it, finish with a liaison of half the yolk of an egg, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of cream, and serve as before. The cauliflower must not be too much done, or it would break to pieces.

No. 715. Cotelettes de Mouton aux truffes.

Proceed with the cotelettes as before, put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, with a little consommé, and reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon; have six middling-sized preserved truffles cut in thin slices, which throw into the sauce whilst boiling, season with a little sugar, boil all together a few minutes, glaze the cotelettes, sauce over, and serve.

No. 716. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Maintenon.

Have twelve cotelettes nicely cut, lay them on the table and season lightly, put two tablespoonfuls of oil in a sauté-pan, lay in your cotelettes, and fry over a moderate fire till three parts done, take them out, and put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in the sauté-pan; fry till of a light brown colour, pour off as much of the oil as possible, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and two tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), with a little consommé, a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, a little sugar, grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt; reduce till rather thick, then throw in the cotelettes for a few minutes, turn out on a dish, and leave them to get cold in the sauce; have twelve pieces of white paper, each cut in the shape of a heart and large enough to fold a cotelette in, rub a little oil over, and place a cotelette in each with as much of the sauce as possible; fold them up, and broil ten minutes over a moderate fire, dress them in a crown on your dish, without taking them out of the papers, which must well cover the cotelettes, or they would be very dry.

No. 717. Cotelettes de Mouton sauce remoulade.

Dress twelve cotelettes as for sauce Soubise (No. 703), then put six tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with three of veal stock or consommé, place it over the fire, and when boiling add an equal quantity of sauce tartare (No. 38) stir over the fire till hot, but do not let it boil, sauce under, and serve.

No. 718. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Financière.

Proceed with the cotelettes as before, and serve the ragout à la financière (No. 50) in the centre, only observe that the garniture must be very small, or it would look clumsy with such an entrée as cotelettes.

For cotelettes de mouton à l’Italienne, ditto, sauce poivrades, ditto, aux fines herbes, and ditto, aux jus d’échalotte, dress the cotelettes as usual, and sauce over with either of the above-named sauces (see Nos. 30, 32, 26 and 27).

No. 719. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Proceed with the cotelettes as before described, then put eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with two of cream and two of broth; when boiling add one ounce of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), shake the stewpan round till the butter melts, then pour the sauce under the cotelettes; have ready some fried potatoes very crisp, cut thin, and of the size of six penny-pieces, which build in pyramid in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve.

No. 720. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Hollandaise.

Proceed precisely as for the last, only using some sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) instead of the sauce maître d’hôtel, fried potatoes the same. For the two last entrées the sauce must not be too thick.

No. 721. Cotelettes de Mouton panée, grillée.

Prepare twelve nice cotelettes, which season nicely, egg and bread-crumb them, beat lightly with a knife, have some hot clarified butter in a stewpan, dip each cotelette in, then throw them into bread-crumbs, beat again with your knife, and place them on the gridiron over a moderate fire, turning them now and then, ten minutes will be sufficient, dress in crown with a little plain gravy, or with any of the foregoing sauces.

No. 722. Of Cotelettes braised.

Braised cotelettes are much more in vogue in France than in England, for in the former they prefer meat stewed, whilst in the latter the meat is more succulent and tender, and even for Soubise or Provençale the cotelette sauté is preferred, although properly they ought to be braised; I shall, therefore, describe the manner of braising them and leave the choice to my readers.

Prepare a neck of mutton by cutting off the chine-bone, and cut the cotelettes as before, but let them remain nearly of the same thickness you cut them from the neck, which will be nearly an inch, then stick five or six pieces of fat bacon about the size of a quill through the lean of each cotelette, cutting off the ends, then cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon and lay twelve cotelettes over, all laying on the same side, just cover them with stock, to which add an onion, three cloves, and a bunch of parsley, place a sheet of buttered paper over them, and place them over a slow fire to simmer between two and three hours, try them and if very tender place them upon an oval dish, with a little of their stock, place another dish over them upon which put a seven pounds weight; when quite cold trim nicely of equal sizes and put them in a sauté-pan with their stock to warm, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47), or any other sauce as directed for the cotelettes sautés. Although these cotelettes are required to be tender they must not be too much done or the bones would fall from them.

No. 723. Cotelettes de Mouton braisé à la Marseillaise.

Cook your cotelettes as directed in the last, but cut them rather small; when cold cover all over with the preparation of onion as for cotelettes à la Provençale, egg and bread-crumb all over and place them in the oven for a quarter of an hour, dress in crown, previously giving them a nice colour with a salamander, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) much thinned, with cream under them.

No. 724. Carbonade of Mutton.

Prepare a loin of mutton as a carbonade (see flancs No. 577), and when cold cut it in slices rather more than half an inch in thickness, reduce the stock the carbonade was boiled in to a thin glaze, put the slices in a sauté-pan and pour it over them, place them over a slow fire till quite hot, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with any of the sauces named for cotelettes.

No. 725. Poitrine de Mouton sauce piquante.

Braise and press a breast of mutton as directed (No. 487), and when cold cut ten pieces out of it in the shape of cotelettes, one third fat and two thirds lean, but not too large, egg, bread-crumb, and broil as for cotelettes panées grillées (No. 721), dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, glaze and serve with sauce piquante (No. 27) in the centre. They may also be served with sauce Soubise (No. 47), poivrade (No. 32), jus d’échalotte (No. 16), or fines herbes (No. 26).

No. 726. Rognons de Mouton à la brochette.

Mutton kidneys dressed in this manner are usually served for breakfast or luncheon, but they may be served as an entrée for dinner. Procure nine fresh kidneys, cut them open and run silver or wooden skewers through to keep them open, season well, egg over with a paste-brush, and dip them into a dish of bread-crumbs, broil over a moderate fire, about ten minutes will be sufficient; when done dress them on your dish in pyramid, place a piece of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79) in each, half the size of a walnut, place them in the oven two minutes, glaze lightly and serve very hot.

No. 727. Rognons à la Tartare.

Broil nine kidneys as above, and serve with a good sauce à la tartare (No. 38) under them.

No. 728. Rognons de Mouton à la Vénitienne.

Cut ten fresh kidneys in halves the long way, take off the skins and cut out the roots, or they would shrink in cooking; put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, with a spoonful of chopped eschalots, place the pan on the fire and as soon as the butter melts place in the kidneys, fry about five minutes, and when half done turn them, dress them in a crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and put them somewhere to keep hot; pour as much of the butter as possible from the sauté-pan, and put in a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and six spoonfuls of consommé; boil altogether ten minutes, then add half an ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78) and the juice of half a lemon, mix it well in, sauce over the kidneys and serve.

No. 729. Rognons de Mouton sauté au vin de champagne.

Skin eight kidneys and cut them into thin slices, put an ounce of butter in a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the butter begins to brown throw in the kidneys, stir round with a wooden spoon and when they become firm add a small tablespoonful of flour, mix well, add two wineglasses of champagne with two of white broth and twenty blanched mushrooms; let all boil very gently a few minutes, season with the juice of half a lemon, a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley; pour them out on your dish and serve. The sauce requires to be rather thick, sherry or hock may be used instead of champagne.

No. 730. Pieds de Mouton à la Poulette.

Proceed as directed for the flanc (No. 630) and serve them in a small casserole of rice, according to the size of your entrée dish.

No. 731. Pieds de Mouton à la purée d’oignons.

Cook the feet as directed (No. 630), and have ready prepared the following purée: peel and cut in dice four large onions, which put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter over the fire, keeping them stirred with a wooden spoon till tender, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, a pint of milk and a little broth, season with pepper, salt, and sugar, keep boiling till the onions are quite done, then put in the feet, which let simmer a few minutes, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, stir well, and place it over the fire a minute, keeping it stirred to thicken, serve either on a dish or in a casserole of rice (No. 626). They require to be seasoned rather highly.

ENTREES OF LAMB.

No. 732. Pieds d’Agneau.

Lambs’ feet are cooked in the same manner as the sheeps’ but do not require quite so long to stew; having previously cooked ten feet put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a pint of white stock and four button onions; reduce to half, then pass it through a tammie over the feet into another stewpan, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, add twenty heads of mushrooms and a little chopped parsley; simmer altogether two or three minutes, add a little lemon-juice, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, mix quickly and serve in a pâté chaud (No. 618), or casserole of rice (No. 626), made according to the size of your dish.

No. 733. Pieds d’Agneau farcis.

Have eight feet ready cooked and cold, then have prepared a quarter of a pound of veal forcemeat (No. 120), with which add a little chopped parsley, chopped eschalots, and the yolk of an egg, fill the part of the feet with it from which you took the large bone, put them again into the stock they were cooked in and simmer twenty minutes, take them out, drain on a cloth, and dress them in pyramid by placing a little mashed potato upon the bottom of the dish, laying four at the bottom and finishing with one at the top, sauce over with a sauce Hollandaise (No. 66), and serve with chopped gherkins sprinkled over them.

No. 734. Pieds d’Agneau en marinade.

Having cooked eight feet, cut each one in halves lengthwise and put in a basin with two onions sliced, two bayleaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, a glass of vinegar, two spoonfuls of oil, and a little salt and pepper, let them remain four hours, drain upon a cloth, and dip them into fritter batter (No. 1285), fry a nice light brown colour, dress on a napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with some tomata sauce (No. 37) in a boat.

No. 735. Pieds d’Agneau en cartouche.

Have cooked eight feet, which dry upon a cloth, make a sauce like for the cotelettes durcelle (No. 704), stew the feet in it twenty minutes, then leave them to get cold in the sauce, have eight pieces of cartridge paper, (each piece large enough to fold a foot in,) oil them and lay in a foot with as much of the sauce as you think sufficient, roll them round and fold the paper at each end to imitate a cartridge, broil them over a slow fire, dress in pyramid and serve with a little gravy in a boat.

No. 736. Oreilles d’Agneau à la Belle Fermière.

Procure eight or ten lambs’ ears and put them into lukewarm water to disgorge for two or three hours, then make a blanc (No. 459), in which put the ears to stew; let them be well covered or they will turn black, boil gently about an hour, if done the thick part of the ears will feel tender, if not ready to serve let them remain in the stock until wanted, make a border of forcemeat as described for the ris de veau à la Turque (No. 673), place it on your dish, take out the ears, make five or six incisions in the thin part of each ear and turn them back to imitate a frill, dress upon the forcemeat to imitate a vase, by turning the curl of the ears outwards, put some mashed potatoes in the centre of the dish, upon which place a fine green bunch of asparagus well-boiled, and not more than four inches in length, standing upright; sauce over with a thin sauce à la purée d’asperges (No. 102), and serve.

No. 737. Oreilles d’Agneau à la Marquise.

Cook and dress eight or ten lambs’ ears, as above, on a border of forcemeat, only turning the ears half reverse way, they will then form a crown; place a plover’s egg peeled and warmed in stock in the hollow of each ear, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan with eight tablespoonfuls of white stock or milk, reduce one-third, then in another stewpan have ten cockscombs nicely dressed and ten button mushrooms, pass the sauce through a tammie upon them, place over the fire, add a gill of cream and the juice of half a lemon, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when hot put the garniture in the centre of the dish, sauce over and serve.

No. 738. Oreilles d’Agneau à la Ravigote.

Cook and dress ten ears precisely as in the last, omitting the eggs, put half a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan with half the quantity of white stock, and let it reduce one third; then have ready two ounces of butter, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon, one of chopped chervil, one of chopped parsley, and two of tarragon vinegar; season with a little pepper and salt, mix it with the sauce, stir over the fire till hot, but do not let it boil, sauce over and serve.

No. 739. Oreilles d’Agneau à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Proceed exactly as above, only using two ounces of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79) instead of the butter there described.

No. 740. Oreilles d’Agneau en marinade.

When cooked cut each ear in halves, lengthwise, and proceed exactly as for the pieds d’agneau (No. 734).

No. 741. Oreilles d’Agneau farcis.

Have eight ears cooked as before, dry them well with a cloth, then put half a pound of veal forcemeat (No. 120) in a basin, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots and one of chopped mushrooms, mixed with the yolk of one egg; put a spoonful of the forcemeat in the hollow of each ear, egg and bread-crumb them all over and fry twenty minutes in lard, not too hot, or they would be too brown before they were sufficiently done; dress them on a border of mashed potatoes and serve with a sauce Italienne (No. 30) under.

No. 742. Queues d’Agneau à la Crèmière.

Lambs’ tails are extremely delicate, cut four into pieces an inch and a half in length, and cook them as directed (No. 627); when tender take them out, put sixteen spoonfuls of white sauce in a stewpan, with four of veal stock, boil five minutes, season with a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and sugar; when boiling put in the tails, and two minutes before serving add half an ounce of butter and the juice of half a lemon, move the stewpan round over the fire till the butter is melted, add two spoonfuls of whipped cream, and when quite hot pour into your dish and serve, or they may be served in a vol-au-vent, casserole of rice, or croustade. Lambs’ tails may be dressed in any of the methods directed for lambs’ feet, and require to be rather highly seasoned.

No. 743. Langue d’Agneau à la Persane.

Procure eight lambs’ tongues, let them disgorge twelve hours in lukewarm water, cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, lay the tongues over and cover them with stock, add two onions, one carrot, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; when boiling draw them to the corner of the stove to simmer, skim well, try when done with a trussing-needle; if they feel tender take them up, take off the skin, trim a little on each side, cut them in halves lengthwise in the shape of cotelettes, and dress them on a border of mashed potatoes; have ready the following sauce: put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan with the half of one of salad-oil, pass them a few minutes over the fire, add a glass of sherry, boil a minute, then add a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and six spoonfuls of white stock, reduce till rather thick, add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms and one of chopped parsley, season rather high, draw it off the fire, put in the yolks of two eggs, mix quickly, stir over the fire another minute to thicken, then put it on a dish until cold; with a knife spread it over the tongues half an inch in thickness, so as to form one mass, egg and bread-crumb over and place it in the oven half an hour, salamander a light brown colour and serve very hot, with the following sauce round: put four spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with four of white broth, let it boil a few minutes, then add two spoonfuls of cream; boil all together, season and serve.

Calf’s tongue may also be dressed as in the last, but instead of being covered in the manner there described, serve it with a sauce matelote (No. 62) in the centre and glaze the tongue lightly.

No. 744. Lambs’ Brains à l’Innocent.

Procure eight or ten lambs’ brains and put them in lukewarm water to disgorge, take off the skins, put the brains in a stewpan with two minced onions, a bunch of parsley, and a little carrot, cover with water, add a glass of vinegar, and a little salt, and boil them ten minutes, then lay them on a cloth and divide each piece in two thin slices, have eight paper cases in which lay the slices of brains, seasoning separately, place a piece of butter on the top of each, with a little chopped parsley, lemon-juice, and a spoonful of white sauce (No. 7); egg and bread-crumb the top, and place them in a hot oven to brown, dress upon the dish in the cases pyramidically and serve.

No. 745. Lambs’ Fry.

Procure two sets of lambs’ fry, which blanch ten minutes in boiling water, drain them on a sieve, and when quite dry egg over with a paste-brush, throw them into bread-crumbs, with which you have mixed some chopped parsley, fry them in very hot lard of a nice light-brown colour, dress pyramidically upon a napkin, garnish with fried parsley and serve.

No. 746. Ris d’Agneau aux petits pois.

Procure ten lambs’ heart-sweetbreads, if not very white lay them in lukewarm water to disgorge, put them in a stewpan of boiling water to blanch, two minutes will be sufficient; throw them into a basin of cold water, and when cold, lard very neatly with very thin strips of bacon, when larded cover the bottom of the stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, two onions sliced, and a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, lay the sweetbreads over, and put in sufficient broth to come up to their sides, set them in a sharp oven for about twenty minutes, glaze and salamander very lightly; then have ready prepared a border of forcemeat as directed for ris de veau à la Turque (No. 673), which place in the centre of your dish, dress the sweetbreads upon it, then have a pint of young peas nicely boiled, put them in a stewpan with three pats of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over the fire five minutes, and finish with a liaison of half the yolk of an egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream, place them in the centre, glaze the sweetbreads lightly and serve.

No. 747. Ris d’Agneau à la Cambaçères.

Lard, cook, and dress eight nice sweetbreads as above, then have nicely cooked nine very fine cockscombs (No. 128), and place one between each sweetbread; have also the following garniture and sauce: prepare thirty very small quenelles of fowl (No. 122), poach them in stock, drain on a cloth, and put them in a stewpan, with six truffles turned to the size of small marbles, and twelve fine olives (stoned) in another stewpan, put half a glass of sherry, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful of chopped onions, and a piece of glaze the size of a nut, boil two minutes, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and eight spoonfuls of consommé, reduce to a good thickness, and add the trimmings of some fresh mushrooms, then pass it through a tammie over the garniture, boil all together one minute, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of sugar, and pour the sauce in the middle of the dish, building the garniture in a dome, and placing the remaining cockscombs on the top, glaze the sweetbreads lightly and serve.

No. 748. Ris d’Agneau aux concombres.

Lard, cook, and dress ten sweetbreads as before, and serve a sauce aux concombres (No. 103) in the centre; they may also be served with a sauce à la jardinière (No. 100), pointes d’asperges (No. 101), sauce tomate (No. 37), &c.

No. 749. Ris d’Agneau à la Madone.

Blanch ten nice sweetbreads, trim them well, cut a deep incision in the centre of each, in which stick a very fine cockscomb (No. 128); surround each sweetbread with a slice of fat bacon, place them in a stewpan and braise as before, but they must be kept quite white, braise half an hour, take off the bacon and dress them upon a border of forcemeat as the last, the cockscombs will be quite firm, then have ready the following sauce: peel and mince the half of a very small cucumber and put it in a stewpan with a chopped eschalot and a pat of butter, let them go gently over the fire, stirring occasionally, until it has become quite a purée, add a quarter of a pound of the flesh of a cooked fowl well pounded in a mortar, season with a little salt and pepper, boil all together five minutes, rub it through a tammie, put into a clean stewpan, and when boiling finish with a tablespoonful of whipped cream, sauce over and serve. The sauce must not be too thick.

For atelettes de ris d’agneau, see atelettes de ris de veau (No. 682), and proceed in the same manner.

No. 750. Epigramme d’Agneau aux haricots verts.

Procure the ribs of a lamb, saw off the breast as large as possible, leaving the bones of the neck long enough to cut cotelettes, braise and press as directed for breast of mutton (No. 487); the day before you want to use it, cut seven nice cotelettes from the neck, then cut seven pieces from the breast, rather small, and the shape of hearts, egg and bread-crumb the cotelettes, which also fry in the same sauté-pan, the whole of them to be of a nice light-brown colour, make a border of mashed potatoes upon your dish, on which dress the cotelettes upon one side and the pieces of breast on the other, have one hundred French beans cut in diamonds and boiled very green, drain them quite dry on a sieve, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of sugar, and the juice of a lemon; set over the fire till very hot, dress them in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and breast lightly, pour nearly half a pint of thin white sauce round and serve very hot.

No. 751. Epigramme d’Agneau aux petits pois.

Proceed with the breast and cotelettes exactly as in the last, using peas instead of French beans, and omitting the lemon-juice; or they may be served with the petits pois à la Française (No. 84), or petits pois au lard (No. 85); experience has taught me that the above is not only the most simple method, but the peas eat much nicer than in either of the other ways; the peas must be young and perfectly fresh, if the reverse stew them by all means.

No. 752. Epigramme d’Agneau aux concombres.

Proceed exactly as before, using a sauce aux concombres (No. 103) instead of the other vegetables.

No. 753. Epigramme d’Agneau à l’Ancienne.

Prepare your cotelettes and breast as before, but dress them alternately on the dish; you have previously roasted a shoulder of lamb, when cold cut half a pound of the best part out, which cut into slices the size of half-a-crown, cut also ten fine heads of blanched mushrooms in two slices and put them into a stewpan with the lamb; in another stewpan put a pint of white sauce (No. 7), six spoonfuls of white stock, with four of boiled milk and a bunch of parsley, reduce to a proper thickness, pass it through a tammie over the lamb and mushrooms, place over the fire to boil, season lightly with a little pepper, salt, sugar, and the juice of half a lemon; let simmer a few minutes, add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with half a gill of cream, move the stewpan gently over the fire till the sauce thickens, pour the sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve.

Although this way of serving an epigramme is good, yet I give the preference to the other, for the lamb coming in season with the vegetables they look so much more inviting; the epigramme à l’ancienne I consider fitter for a winter dish.

No. 754. Cotelettes d’Agneau aux petits pois.

Lamb cotelettes require great attention, both in cutting, bread-crumbing, and frying. Cut twelve cotelettes of the same size and shape as represented in the engraving, lay them upon a dish, season lightly with white pepper and salt, put three yolks of eggs upon another plate, which mix with a tablespoonful of cream, rub each cotelette in it and afterwards into very fine bread-crumbs, beat them lightly with your knife, keeping them in their shapes, have a quarter of a pound of butter in a small stewpan, let it boil at the corner of the stove, skimming it until perfectly clarified, then pour it into a thick flat-bottomed sauté-pan over a brisk fire, lay in the cotelettes (turning them two or three times, which will cause them to be a light brown colour); fry very crisp, not doing them too much; if properly done they will be very full of gravy; to ascertain when done press them lightly with the point of your knife; if beginning to feel a little firm they are done; take them out, glaze very lightly, dress them in your dish upon a border of mashed potatoes the reverse way, the bones pointing outwards, and serve the peas dressed as for epigramme (No. 750) in the centre. My object in using mashed potatoes is to keep the cotelettes in their places in being carried to table. Why I recommend a thick-bottomed sauté-pan is that the thin ones by the action of the fire frequently rise in the centre, which would cause the cotelettes to burn and completely spoil this delicate entrée.

No. 755. Cotelettes d’Agneau aux pointes d’asperges.

Prepare and dress twelve lamb cotelettes as above, and serve with the garniture aux pointes d’asperges.

No. 756. Cotelettes d’Agneau aux haricots verts.

Prepare and dress the cotelettes as before, and serve with the garniture aux haricots vert.

No. 757. Cotelettes d’Agneau aux racines glacées.

Prepare your cotelettes as above, dress them on a small border of mashed potatoes, then have ready the young vegetables and sauce as directed for grenadins de veau aux racines nouvelles (No. 692), dress the vegetables in pyramid in the centre, sauce round, glaze lightly and serve.

In a large dinner where you are obliged to cook your cotelettes some time before serving, put them into a sauté-pan, half cover them with thin glaze, and keep hot till wanted. This remark applies to every description of cotelettes.

No. 758. Cotelettes d’Agneau aux jeunes oignons.

Prepare and dress twelve lamb cotelettes as before; have ready the following sauce: peel fifty spring onions nearly as large as marbles, put half a teaspoonful of sugar into a stewpan, place it over the fire and when melted add two pats of butter and your onions, pass over a slow fire twenty minutes or till tender, tossing them occasionally, then add fifteen spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), with eight of white stock and a small bunch of parsley, simmer at the corner of the fire a few minutes, skim well, take out the parsley, make a liaison of one yolk of an egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, stir in quickly, stir another minute over the fire to thicken, sauce in the middle of the cotelettes, which glaze and serve; should the onions be too much done take them out with a colander spoon, place them in a clean stewpan, reduce the sauce and pass it through a tammis over them.

No. 759. Cotelettes d’Agneau à la Palestine.

Proceed exactly as for cotelettes de mouton (No. 710), but scooping the artichokes a size smaller.

No. 760. Cotelettes d’Agneau à la Vicomtesse.

Proceed as for cotelettes de mouton à la vicomtesse (No. 699).

No. 761. Cotelettes d’Agneau à la purée de truffes.

Prepare twelve lamb cotelettes as usual, and have ready the following purée: put six large French truffles in a mortar and pound them very fine, then put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of consomme, reduce a few minutes, keeping it stirred, add the pounded truffles and a little sugar, simmer a couple of minutes, rub it through a tammie with a couple of wooden spoons, put it again into a stewpan to make hot, sauce under the cotelettes, which glaze and serve.

The French raw truffles are the best, but if you cannot obtain them use the preserved, or raw English truffles if most handy, but choose the blackest you can get.

No. 762. Cotelettes d’Agneau à la purée de champignons.

Prepare twelve cotelettes as usual, which glaze and serve with a sauce à la purée de champignons (No. 54) under them.

No. 763. Cotelettes d’Agneau à la purée d’artichauts.

Prepare the cotelettes as usual, and have ready the following purée: peel and slice eight large Jerusalem artichokes, and one small onion, put the onion into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, two ounces of raw ham, a sprig of thyme, ditto parsley, and one bay-leaf; stir over the fire five minutes, then add the artichokes, with a very little white stock, cover the stewpan and place it over a slow fire, stirring round occasionally; let them remain till quite tender, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, and nearly a pint of white stock; boil altogether, keeping it stirred, rub it through a tammie, place it in another stewpan, add a little sugar, pepper, and salt, boil and skim well, finish with two tablespoonfuls of good cream, sauce under the cotelettes, which glaze and serve; these purées require to be rather thick, yet not so thick as to eat pasty and disagreeable.

Lamb cotelettes may also be served with a purée of cauliflowers (No. 97), cucumbers, (No. 105), or asparagus (No. 102).

No. 764. Cotelettes d’Agneau farcis aux truffes.

Cut, lard, and braise twelve lamb cotelettes as described for mutton (No. 722), but they will not require so long stewing, press them between two dishes until cold, trim them nicely, then make a purée of truffles as directed (No. 53), but thicker, take it off the fire whilst boiling, and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, place it a moment on the fire to set, and pour on a dish to get cold, then take the cotelettes by the bones and surround them with the purée, spreading it over with a knife, egg and bread-crumb twice over, and put them in a wire basket; have four pounds of lard in a stewpan over the fire and very hot, put in the wire basket and cotelettes, fry of a nice light-brown colour, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a little clear demi-glace (No. 9) in the dish.

No. 765. Cotelettes d’Agneau farcis aux champignons.

Prepare your cotelettes as above, make a purée of mushrooms as directed (No. 54), but thicker, and adding the two yolks of eggs as in the last, spread it over the cotelettes, bread-crumb, fry, and serve exactly as in the last.

Lamb côtelettes farcis may also be made with purée of asparagus (No. 102), cauliflower (No. 97), artichokes (No. 90), or cucumbers (No. 105), by following the above articles.

For cotelettes d’agneau à la reform, Provençale, maître d’hôtel, Hollandaise, poivrade, piquante, or tomates, see cotelettes de mouton, with the same sauces, and proceed as there directed.

No. 766. Blanquette d’Agneau.

Roast a shoulder of lamb, and when cold cut the best part of it into thin slices about the size of half-crown-pieces, cut also about half the quantity of cooked ham or tongue into pieces of the same size as the lamb, put them together in a stewpan; you have previously boiled in another stewpan a pint of good white sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of stock with a bunch of fresh parsley in it, which pass through a tammie over the meat, season with pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, simmer gently, pour on a dish and serve; truffles or mushrooms may likewise be added, and it may be served in a croustade of bread, casserole of rice (No. 626), or vol-au-vent (No. 1140); if you have the remains of any joint of lamb it may be used for the above purpose.

No. 767. Croquettes d’Agneau.

Roast a shoulder of lamb and when cold cut it up in very small dice with one fourth the quantity of cooked ham or tongue; put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, pass it over a fire till the onion becomes yellowish, then add a little flour, mix well, put in your mince, with about a pint of white sauce (No. 7), season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar; boil all together five minutes, keeping it stirred, if too thick add a little more sauce, then add two yolks of eggs, stir them in quickly over the fire for one minute, add the juice of a lemon, and pour it out on a dish to cool; when quite cold take twelve pieces of it rather larger than walnuts, roll them about two inches in length, egg and bread-crumb twice over and fry in very hot lard; dress them on your dish in crown upon a small border of mashed potatoes, and serve with some of the blanquette d’agneau above, in the centre.

ENTREES OF PORK.

Very few entrées are made of pork, the cotelettes being the principal; they require a sharp high-seasoned sauce; the small pork only can be used.

No. 768. Cotelettes de Porc à l’Indienne.

Cut twelve cotelettes from a neck of pork, similar to the manner directed for mutton cotelettes, only you will be able to cut four cotelettes without bones, by cutting a cotelette from between the rib-bones, as they require little or no beating, you cut them from the neck of the same thickness you require your cotelettes, egg and bread-crumb and fry them a nice colour in clarified butter; they require to be well done, for underdone pork is very unwholesome; dress in a crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce à l’Indienne (No. 45) under them; if for a dinner of any importance omit the cotelettes without bones, using two necks to obtain the quantity.

No. 769. Cotelettes de Porc sauce remoulade.

Prepare and dress the cotelettes as above, and proceed as for the mutton cotelettes, sauce remoulade (No. 717).

Pork cotelettes are also served with their original sauce Robert (No. 28), sauce piquante (No. 27), au jus d’échalotte (No. 16), or poivrade (No. 33) over, and with a sauce tomate (No. 37) beneath them; the cotelettes require glazing, especially where the sauce is served under them.

No. 770. Cotelettes de Porc à la Siamoise.

Prepare twelve cotelettes as before, dress them on your dish, and have ready the following sauce: peel forty button onions, then put half a teaspoonful of sugar in a stewpan, and place it over the fire; when melted and beginning to brown, add two ounces of butter and the onions; keep tossing them over the fire until they get rather brown, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and half the quantity of consommé; let boil on the corner of the stove till the onions are done, keeping it well skimmed, the onions must be tender but not broke, take them out carefully with a colander spoon and place them in a clean stewpan; reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a tablespoonful of French mustard, and pass it through a tammie over the onions; have also twenty little balls the size of marbles, cut from some gherkins, which put in the sauce, warm altogether, but do not boil, dress the onions and gherkins in the centre, sauce over and serve.

No. 771. Cotelettes de Porc à la Bolognaise.

Prepare twelve cotelettes as before, but mixing some grated Parmesan cheese with the bread-crumbs, and frying them in oil; then cut eighty pieces of blanched macaroni (No. 130), about three quarters of an inch long, with twenty pieces of cooked ham or tongue, and twenty mushrooms the same size as the macaroni; put them into a stewpan, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; place over the fire and when quite hot add two ounces of grated Parmesan, and two of grated Gruyere cheese, mix well together by shaking the stewpan round, season with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, if approved of, and pour in the centre of your cotelettes, which glaze and serve with nearly half a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) poured round and over the garniture.

No. 772. Cotelettes de Porc à la Jeune France.

Prepare twelve cotelettes as before, but cook them rather underdone, have ready the preparation of onions as for cotelettes à la Provençale (No. 701), with a spoonful of French mustard added, cover the cotelettes all over with it about a quarter of an inch in thickness, egg, bread-crumb, and fold each one in a piece of pig’s caul to keep its shape, put a little oil in the sauté-pan, lay in the cotelettes, put it over the fire for two or three minutes, then in the oven to give them a good colour, if not sufficient colour pass the salamander over, take them out, lay upon a clean cloth to drain, dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a demi-glace (No. 9) round.

No. 773. Filets de Porc à l’Hanoverienne.

Procure four small fillets of pork from under the loins, take off all the skin and beat them flat, lard neatly with fine bacon as for a sweetbread, cover the bottom of stewpan with thin slices of bacon, two onions in slices and a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, lay the fillets over, add about a pint of stock, stand it over the fire five minutes, then put it in the oven; when done they will be quite tender, glaze and salamander a nice colour, place them on a clean cloth to drain, and cut each fillet in halves, dress upon a border of mashed potatoes in crown, have ready some very white stewed choucroute (No. 116), which dress in pyramid in the centre, put twelve spoonfuls of brown sauce in a stewpan with four of consommé, a small piece of glaze, and a little powdered sugar, reduce till rather thick, sauce round and serve. Your choucroute must be very white.

Fillets of pork may also be served with dressed spinach (No. 106), ditto endive (No. 119), sauce tomata (No. 37), Robert (No. 28), or Indienne (No. 45).

No. 774. Escalopes de Porc à la Lyonnaise.

Procure four fillets from the loin as in the last, but do not lard them, cut them into pieces the size and shape of a fillet of fowl, egg, bread-crumb, and fry in clarified butter, dress in crown on your dish, sauce over with a brown Soubise (No. 48), sprinkle bread-crumbs over, salamander and serve.

Escalopes may also be served with any of the sauces as served with the cotelettes.

No. 775. Langue de Porc demi salé.

Have three fillets of pork larded, and braise as (No. 773), and cut each fillet in halves to make six pieces, boil also three small pigs’ tongues, split each one in half, skin and trim nicely, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the fillets and tongues alternately in crown, glaze lightly and serve with a sauce tomate (No. 37).

Pigs’ tongues may be dressed in the same manner as calves’ or sheep, but they are not such delicate eating.

DOE VENISON, OR CHEVREUIL.

The flesh of the doe or roebuck is a kind of black meat, and possesses a wild gamey taste; it is seldom used without being pickled in a marinade, and is sent to the table with a sharp and savoury sauce.

No. 776. Cotelettes de Chevreuil à la Bohémienne.

Cut twelve cotelettes from the necks, the same as you would mutton, but they will be rather larger, make two quarts of the marinade as for filet de bœuf à la Bohémienne (No. 426), and lay in the cotelettes, let them remain four days; when ready for use take them out, dry upon a cloth, season with a little pepper and salt, dip in flour, egg and bread-crumb afterwards, dip them in clarified butter, and again in the bread-crumbs, beat them lightly with a knife, place them on a gridiron, broil nicely, dress them in crown, and have ready the following sauce: put six tablespoonfuls of the marinade in a stewpan, with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, reduce it a little, then add twelve spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) and six of consommé, reduce again until it adheres to the back of the spoon, season a little high, add half a tablespoonful of currant jelly, sauce round and serve. Garniture as for cotelettes de mutton may be introduced.

No. 777. Cotelettes de Chevreuil sauté sauce poivrade.

Having cut twelve cotelettes, season with pepper and salt, put a quarter of a pound of butter in a sauté-pan, melt it and lay in the cotelettes, put them over a sharp fire and when partly done turn, keeping them underdone; take all the butter away without disturbing the cotelettes, then pour a pint of thin poivrade sauce (No. 32) and half a pint of consommé over, let them simmer about ten minutes till the meat has taken the flavour of the sauce, dress the cotelettes as before, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the spoon, add twenty pickled mushrooms, sauce over and serve.

No. 778. Minced Chevreuil.

With the remains of a haunch or any other part from a previous dinner, take the meat and cut it up in very thin slices, have ready boiling on the fire about a pint of sauce piquante (No. 27), throw in the meat, but do not let it boil; after the meat is in, season rather high, and finish with a spoonful of currant jelly, it requires to be rather thick, turn it out on your dish and garnish round with triangular scippets of bread fried in butter, serve immediately.

No. 779. Of the Wild Boar.

The principal and most recherché part of this ferocious animal is the head, which is eaten cold, stuffed the German fashion; it is, however, a second course dish, and will be given in that series. The cotelettes are dressed exactly as the chevreuil, it may also be minced, but as it is seldom or ever eaten in this country, I shall content myself with these few remarks (see Boar’s Head, No. 984).

No. 780. Of Venison for Entrées.

The haunches and necks are usually roasted, its high price would prevent its being cut up for entrées, as that would only be spoiling a noble dish to make a small one, and then would not be so delicious as the joint nicely roasted, but in large families in the country, where venison is very plentiful, the receipts for a few entrées may be very acceptable.

No. 781. Cotelettes de Venaison en demi-glace.

A neck of venison requires to be hung a fortnight or three weeks before it is ready; cut the cotelettes as described for mutton, but of course they will be larger, and you must leave as much of the fat as possible, and be careful in beating it flat not to detach the fat from the lean, as the fat is so delicate; put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan to melt, lay the cotelettes over and place them on a brisk fire, when half done turn them, fry them a good colour, (they are done when they feel firm to the touch,) lay upon a cloth, dress in crown on a small border of mashed potatoes, and place them in the oven to keep hot, pour off the fat from the sauté-pan, and put in a glass of port wine, let reduce a little, then add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) and four spoonfuls of consommé, reduce till it adheres to the spoon, add a little sugar and a pat of butter, mix well, and sauce over the cotelettes, which serve as hot as possible.

No. 782. Cotelettes de Venaison aux olives.

Proceed exactly as above, but just before pouring the sauce over add about twenty stoned olives, dress them in the centre, sauce over and serve; truffles or mushrooms may likewise be introduced.

No. 783. Cotelettes de Venaison au jus de groseilles.

Sauté and dress your cotelettes as above, then put a pint of thin sauce poivrade (No. 32) in the sauté-pan with a little consommé, reduce till thickish, skim a little, add a spoonful of currant jelly, sauce over and serve.

No. 784. Hashed Venison.

The remains of a haunch of venison when cold is much thought of as hash, under which humble name it makes its appearance amongst the most sumptuous dishes, and is a great favourite with epicures, but if no fat remains do not attempt to dress it; but a good haunch well-carved will supply sufficient fat to hash the remainder.

Put a quart of good brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan with a pint of consommé (No. 134), a piece of glaze, and a good bunch of parsley, let reduce to a good demi-glace, skim, then have as much venison as you require cut in thin slices, the fat thicker than the lean, put it into the sauce, season with pepper and salt, put it over a sharp fire to get hot as quick as possible, but do not let it boil or it would get hard and become very greasy, serve as hot as possible, with red currant jelly separate, make only sufficient for one entrée.

No. 785. Venison Pie.

May also be made from the remains of a haunch in a common pie-dish or silver soufflée-dish; put some thin slices of venison at the bottom of the dish, season with pepper, salt, and little chopped eschalot, then a layer of fat, proceeding alternately till the dish is full, building it up to form a dome and give the pie a good appearance, put in a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, a few spoonfuls of gravy, and four of brown sauce, cover with puff-paste (No. 1132), make a hole in the top, egg over, and bake in a hot oven; when done pour about six spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into it with a funnel, shake it about a little and serve very hot. Should you require to make a pie with raw venison pass it a few minutes in butter in a sauté-pan upon the stove.

ENTREES OF POULTRY.

No. 786. Estomacs de Dinde à la Turenne.

Many entrées may be made of turkey, but it is usually served as a remove, being too large, and consequently too expensive to cut up; but several entrées may be made from the remains of one previously served, for the following choose very young small turkeys.

Have a young turkey well plucked and drawn, with a sharp knife cut off the whole of the breast, leaving nothing but the legs and backbone, then carefully skin and bone the breast without separating the fillets, it will then be in the form of a heart; lard one of the fillets as you would a sweetbread, and cover the other with a slice of fat bacon, put three onions, one carrot, and one turnip, in slices, into a convenient-sized stewpan, with a little parsley, thyme, and two bay-leaves, cover them with half a pint of stock, lay the breast over and start it to boil over the fire, then place it in a moderate oven till tender, glaze and salamander the larded fillet a light yellow colour, but keep the other white, drain upon a clean cloth, and serve with a sauce à la purée de truffes (No. 53) under them.

No. 787. Estomac de Dinde à la Jeune Comtesse.

Prepare the breast as above, only larding and glazing both fillet; you have previously roasted the legs tied up in vegetables, take off all the flesh, which pound well in a mortar and pass through a wire sieve, then put a spoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with two pats of butter, place it over the fire a few minutes till the eschalots become a little yellow, then add a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour (mix well,) and the purée of turkey, which cover with half a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and six spoonfuls of white broth, stir over the fire until boiling, season with a little sugar, pepper, and salt, and pass it through a tammie with a couple of wooden spoons, put it in a clean stewpan, boil a few minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of cream and a pat of butter, which stir in quickly, pour it in your dish, dress the breast over and serve. The above purée requires to be rather thick, but at the same time delicate, if there is more than you require, reserve some of it, as too much sauce would spoil the look of the entrée.

No. 788. Escalopes de Dinde en blanquette.

Take out the two fillets of a turkey, and take off all the skin, then beat them to the thickness of a five-shilling-piece, and from each fillet cut five escalopes in a slanting direction, put two ounces of fresh butter in a sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when melted lay in the escalopes, season lightly with a little white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, place them on a slow fire, turn them, pour off all the butter from the sauté-pan, and cover with fifteen spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) and four of milk, place over the fire, let it simmer a few minutes, take it off and stir in quickly a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with three spoonfuls of cream, stir over the fire another half minute, but do not let it boil, dress them garnished with croutons on your dish and serve; a few mushrooms and slices of cooked tongue might also be introduced.

No. 789. Escalopes de Dinde à la Belle Fermière.

Fillet a turkey as before, and cut each escalope into an oval shape, season with a little salt and pepper, egg and bread-crumb, fry a light brown colour in clarified butter, dress them on a border of mashed potatoes in crown, with a large dressed cockscomb (No. 128) between each, sauce in the middle and round as for estomac de dinde (No. 787), and serve very hot.

No. 790. Emincée de Dinde à l’Italienne

Is made with the remains of a turkey from a previous dinner, cut large slices from the breast-part, as much as you may require, and put them into a stewpan with six gherkins cut in long slices, have ready a pint of good sauce Italienne (No. 31), and when boiling pour it over; warm them gently, but do not let them boil, and serve in a dish with very small croquettes de pommes de terre (No. 131) round.

No. 791. Blanquette de Dinde au Jambon.

Cut up the remains of a turkey as above, and put it in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of lean ham (cooked) also in slices, in another stewpan, have a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and half a pint of white stock, which boil with a few trimmings of mushrooms, then pass it through a tammie over the slices of turkey, place it on the fire, let simmer a few minutes, season with a little sugar and salt, add the juice of half a lemon, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of cream, serve plain in your dish, or in a vol-au-vent or casserole of rice (No. 626).

Croquettes, rissolettes, and boudins are made with the remains of turkey, in the same manner as described for fowls (No. 840).

No. 792. Filets de Poulardes à l’Ambassadrice.

Poulardes being smaller than capons, are better adapted for entrées, but both are dressed in the same manner.

Have previously roasted in vegetables and quite white two small poulardes; when cold, with a sharp knife cut out the fillets, which again cut into two equal slices, beat them slightly with the blade of a strong knife, then have ready half a pound of delicate forcemeat of fowl (No. 122), with which put a couple of finely chopped truffles, cover each piece of fillet the eighth of an inch thick, and all over, then have chopped finely two more truffles, the same quantity of lean ham, mix the same quantity of bread-crumbs with each, egg the fillets over, then dip them into the chopped ham and truffles, four into each, and sauté them in clarified butter very gently, turn them when half done, and when done dress them in crown upon your dish; have ready a thin sauce à la purée de concombres (No. 105), to which when boiling add twelve fine cockscombs (No. 128) and a little cream, sauce in the middle, and serve.

No. 793. Filets de Poularde à la Marie Stuart.

Fillet a poularde by splitting the skin up the breast, and passing your knife down the bone, keeping close to the ribs until you have scooped them out, then lay them flat on a board, and with a thin knife take off the inner skin, leaving the upper one untouched; then cut off the legs, with as much skin as possible attached, bone them, and prepare the following stuffing: scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, and put it in a stewpan, with four cloves, a blade of mace, six peppercorns and a bay-leaf, pass them over the fire five minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon, take out the spice and bay-leaf, add six large truffles cut in thin slices, pass them three minutes over the fire, then add twelve spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), boil altogether ten minutes, keeping it stirred, season with a little salt, pepper, sugar, and a little nutmeg; take it off the fire, and stir in the yolk of an egg very quickly; when cold stuff the legs, braise, and give them the form of little ducks; then stuff the fillets with the best slices of truffles under the skin, and put them in a sauté-pan, with half a pound of butter, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, sauté them very white over a slow fire, then make a little pyramid of mashed potatoes in the middle of your dish, lay the two fillets almost upright against it, opposite to each other, and the two legs on the other sides, surmount them with a very nice, white, dressed calf’s ear (No. 665) cut as a frill, with a plover’s egg (shelled) placed in the centre, make a good stock with the bones of the poularde (see No. 6), skim off all the fat, and reduce it very nearly to a glaze, then add six spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) and half a gill of cream; boil altogether a minute, sauce over, and serve. The entrée will stand best upon a pyramid of mashed potatoes, but a pyramid of forcemeat blanched in stock may be used.

No. 794. Filets de Poulardes à la Talma.

Fillet two poulardes as described in the last, then take off the filet mignon, or small fillet, from the under part of each, lard the large fillet neatly as you would a sweetbread, and braise them as described for the estomac de dinde (No. 786), then have twelve French beans boiled nice and green, cut pieces from them in half circles, beat the small fillets gently, make incisions in them, in which stick the pieces of French beans, sauté them in a sauté-pan, keeping them quite white, then have ready some spinach dressed (No. 106) rather stiff, make a pyramid of it in the centre of the dish, dress the fillets almost perpendicular against it, with the smaller fillets between, the points uppermost, and on the top place a quenelle de volaille (No. 122), in which you have stuck a fine cockscomb, pass the braise in which you dressed the fillets through a sieve, skim off all the fat, and place it in a stewpan, with ten spoonfuls of brown sauce, and reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little sugar, sauce over, glaze your fillets and serve.

No. 795. Filets de Poularde à la Russe.

Prepare a little rice as for a casserole de riz (No. 626), with which form a small pyramid to stand in the centre of your dish, egg over and stand it in the oven to set, then cut a piece off the top, and empty a space large enough to hold a quarter of a pint; at the top of the pyramid there requires a space the size of half-a-crown, after you have emptied it put the top on again, and keep it hot; then fillet two poulardes as above, take off the small fillets, which form into rings by bringing the two ends together, butter a sauté-pan, in which lay the fillets, with the rings, season with a little white pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; place them over the fire, when half done turn them, but keep them quite white, have also previously boiled a Russian tongue, from the thick part cut four pieces the size and shape of the fillets of fowl, but not quite so thick, place the rice in the centre of your dish, and dress the fillet of poulardes and pieces of tongue, (which you have made hot in a little white stock,) alternately round it, put twenty stewed mushrooms in the rice croustade, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in the sauté-pan, with the broth you warmed the tongue in and six spoonfuls of veal stock; boil altogether ten minutes, pass it through a tammie into a stewpan, boil again till it becomes rather thick, then add a little sugar and a gill of cream, sauce over the mushrooms till the croustade is full, then over the fillets, glaze the tongue, place the rings on the top of the pyramid, pour the remainder of the sauce round and serve; the person that carves should be acquainted that the croustade of rice contains mushrooms, that he might carve the croustade and serve with the entree.

No. 796. Filet de Poularde à la Pierre le Grand.

Fillet two poulardes as in the last, and when about three parts cooked lay them on a cloth, and with a thin sharp knife divide each fillet into two; have previously boiled a Russian tongue as in the last, cut also four pieces from the thick part, and pound the remaining tender part very fine; rub it through a wire sieve, then put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, stir over the fire a few minutes, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, and a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce it a little, then add the pounded tongue and two yolks of eggs, stir them in quickly, and season a little more if required, stir over the fire a short time longer, till the eggs begin to set, then with a fork dip in each fillet, let them be well covered, and lay them on a dish to get cold, when egg and bread-crumb them twice over, and fry a good colour in four pounds of very hot lard, warm the four pieces of tongue in a little stock, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the fillets in crown with the pieces of tongue interspersed; you have previously made a stock with the bones of the poulardes (No. 6), which reduce to a thin glaze, add a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, and sauce round; fry two bunches of watercresses very crisp, sprinkle a little salt over, dress them in the middle and serve very hot.

No. 797. Filets de Poularde à la Dumas.

Fillet two poulardes and divide the fillets as in the last; when three parts cooked have ready the following puree: peel and cut in thin slices a very fresh cucumber, which put in a stewpan, with a spoonful of chopped eschalots and three pats of butter, pass gently over a slow fire twenty minutes, keeping them stirred, then add half a tablespoonful of flour and a pint of white sauce (No. 7); season with a little sugar and salt, rub it through a tammie, previously boiling five minutes, put it into another stewpan, with two yolks of eggs, stir quickly over the fire till the yolk sets, then dip in the fillets and proceed as in the last, dress the same and serve with a puree of cucumbers (No. 105), in which you have put three spoonfuls of cream. These entrées should be served immediately or they become soft.

Poulardes and capons may also be served in escalopes or blanquettes, as directed for the turkey (Nos. 788 and 789), especially any fillets that may be left neither larded or fried.

No. 798. Blanc de Poularde aux concombres.

Roast a large poularde in vegetables (see No. 417), and when cold cut the breast out carefully, and afterwards into thin slices, make a stock with the bones as directed (No. 6), then peel two cucumbers, which cut into pieces two inches in length, split each piece into four and take out the seeds if any, trim them at the corners and put them into a stewpan, with a spoonful of chopped eschalots and two pats of butter, place them over a slow fire tossing them occasionally; when a little tender pour off the butter and place in the pieces of poularde, then put the stock from the bones in a stewpan, not more than a pint, and reduce it to half, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and a little sugar, reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then take it off the fire, and stir in a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, pass it through a tammie over the pieces of poularde and cucumbers, and stand in the bain marie to get hot, serve plain in a deep entrée dish.

This dish is much thought of by great epicures, the eyes are certainly not treated, but the palate is delighted. The same description of entrée may be made the next day from the legs.

No. 799. Cuisses de Poulardes à la Talleyrand de Périgord.

Bone the legs of two poulardes, leaving as much skin as possible on them, then stuff and braise them as directed for poularde à la Marie Stuart (No. 528), only place slices of truffles between the flesh and the skin, then poach a square piece of forcemeat (No. 120) three inches high, and smaller at the top than the bottom; when cold place it on a cloth and cut it in the shape of a pyramid according to the size of your dish, make it hot in some stock, take it out carefully and fix it in the centre of your dish upon a piece of mashed potato, then take up the legs, draw out the thread and place them on a cloth to drain; have four very small silver skewers, or atelettes, place a nice truffle warmed in stock on each, dress a leg upon each side of the pyramid upon a piece of mashed potato, perpendicular, and run an atelette through each at the top, fixing it to the forcemeat, they being nearly upright; then have ready the following sauce: chop four small truffles and put them in a stewpan, with half a glass of Madeira wine, reduce a minute, then add the stock the legs were braised in (having previously passed it through a cloth and taken off the whole of the fat), and twelve spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1); reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

To simplify the above they may be cooked as described, and dressed plain on the dish with the sauce over.

No. 800. Cuisses de Poulardes au Soleil.

Bone the legs of two poulardes, leaving as much skin on as possible, season them with a little pepper and salt inside, then have ready a quarter of a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), chop two ounces of lean cooked ham, mix it with the forcemeat, stuff the legs with it, sew them up with a piece of packthread, then hold them a quarter of a minute over a charcoal fire to make the skin firm, have some bacon cut very fine, and with it lard a circle very neatly (forming rays), upon the top of each, braise them as directed (No. 793), have also ready a pyramid of forcemeat as in the last, when the legs are done prick a hole in the centre of the larded circle, in which place a piece of truffle to resemble a clove but six times the size of one, prepare four little silver atelettes or skewers with a dressed cockscomb upon each, dish the legs precisely as in the last, and serve with a purée of mushrooms (No. 54) round. This may also be simplified by serving the legs plain in the dish with the puree under.

No. 801. Cuisses de Poulardes à l’Ecaillère.

Bone and season four legs as above, have ready a quarter of a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), with which mix ten well blanched oysters cut in quarters, and the yolk of an egg, stuff the legs, sew them with packthread, and braise them as before; prepare also a pyramid of forcemeat as before, have four little atelettes and place a craw-fish (No. 380) upon each, dress the legs with the atelettes as before, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with six spoonfuls of oyster liquor; reduce it to a proper thickness, add half a gill of cream, mix well, and pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, into which put two dozen blanched oysters, season with a little cayenne pepper; warm altogether, sauce over and serve.

No. 802. Cuisses de Poulardes farcis aux petits légumes.

Bone and season four legs as before, stuff them with a quarter of a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), and braise them as before, make a pyramid of mashed potatoes in the centre of your dish and dress a leg on each side; you have previously turned twenty young carrots and twenty young turnips in the shape of small pears, and stewed with sufficient stock to cover them, in which you put half a teaspoonful of sugar; when tender dry them on a cloth, and stick them alternately in the potatoes above and around the legs very tastefully; then put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) with the stock you stewed your vegetables in, add a bunch of parsley and half a bay-leaf, with six spoonfuls of consommé; reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, take out the parsley and bay-leaf, add a pat of butter, sauce over and serve.

No. 803. Cuisses de Poulardes en fricassée à l’hôtelière.

Bone, stuff, and braise as before four legs of poulardes, make a pyramid of mashed potatoes in the centre of your dish, draw out the packthread, drain the legs on a cloth, dress them round, place a fine craw-fish on the top, and have ready the following sauce: peel fifty small button onions and put them in a stewpan, with a pint of white sauce and half a pint of white stock, add a small bunch of parsley and half a bay-leaf; let simmer till the onions are tender, keeping it skimmed, then take out the parsley and bay-leaf, and with a colander spoon take out all the onions, which deposit in another stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, season with a little salt, sugar, and lemon-juice, and finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, pass it through a tammie over the onions, warm altogether without letting it boil, sauce over and serve.

No. 804. Cuisses de Poulardes à la Bayonnaise.

Procure four legs of poulardes and take out the thigh-bone, leaving the one in the leg, but cut off above the knuckle; then put four spoonfuls of salad oil in a stewpan, season the legs with a little pepper and salt, and lay them in, place the stewpan over a slow fire, cover it, and let them remain till they get a yellowish colour, turn, and when three parts done add thirty button onions cut in rings, set it over a sharp fire to give a tinge to the onions, pour off as much oil as possible, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and half the quantity of white stock, let simmer until it becomes rather thick, then take out the legs, which dress flat on your dish; season the sauce a little more if required, add the yolks of two eggs, stir them in quickly, sauce over, sprinkle bread-crumbs upon them, place a small piece of butter on each leg, place them in the oven a quarter of an hour, salamander a light brown and serve.

No. 805. Entrees of Spring Chickens, Pullets, Fowls, etc.

The number of entrées which may be made of this kind of poultry is immense, but to abbreviate and avoid repetition I have classified the three sorts together, so that the following entrées may be made from either of the three sorts, but for many entrées the spring chickens are preferable; the pullets are generally most used, especially for fillets, for if the fillets are very small the least neglect would make them very dry and uneatable, two large fillets are again awkward, however tender, there being too much for one and not enough for two; but I have made this observation merely to state that the same entrées may be made from either where you happen to have them in the house.

No. 806. Filets de Volaille à la Sévigné.

Take two nice plump pullets, fillet them as directed for the poularde (No. 792), detach the filet mignon, or small fillet, from each, lay the fillets on a board, dip your cotelette-bat in water, beat one of the small fillets flat, then another and lay on the top of it, thus making two large fillets of the four small, then with a thin knife detach the skin from the large ones, melt two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, lay in the fillets, which season lightly with white pepper, salt, and juice of a lemon; stand it by till ready, then make some forcemeat with the legs as directed (No. 122), from which make six flat long quenelles with two tablespoons, and poach them in a little stock, place the fillets over the fire, turning them when half done, but keeping them quite white, (the two small fillets will be done before the others,) be sure and not do them too much, they are done as soon as they feel firm to the touch; then make a small border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the fillets half way round and the quenelles the other, making them stand as high as possible, sauce over with a thin purée of cucumbers (No. 105); have ready a handful of green peas nicely boiled, which sprinkle over and serve.

No. 807. Filets de Volaille à la Néva.

Fillet and dress two fowls as above, likewise make the forcemeat and six quenelles with the legs, when the quenelles are partly cold dip them in a basin containing two eggs well beaten, take them out with a fork, and sprinkle some chopped boiled Russian tongue over, place them in an entrée-dish, cover and put them in a hot closet for an hour, cook the fillets as before; make a small border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the fillets and quenelles alternately to form a crown, and have ready prepared the following sauce: break up all the bones of the fowls and put into a stewpan with a glass of Madeira wine, an onion in slices, one bay-leaf, two cloves, a little carrot and celery, place it over the fire two minutes, then cover the bones with two quarts of white stock, and let them simmer gently one hour, skim well and pass it through a cloth into another stewpan, add six spoonfuls of good brown sauce (No. 1) and reduce it to a clear demi-glace, then add ten heads of white mushrooms and ten pieces of boiled Russian tongue cut the size of half-crown-pieces, place the garniture in the centre, sauce over and serve; if you cannot obtain the Russian tongue for any of the above purposes, the English pickled tongue may be used instead.

No. 808. Filets de Volaille sauté au Suprême.

Fillet three fowls as before, making nine fillets from the three, sauté the same, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, sauce over with a sauce suprême (No. 57) and serve; should you require a larger entrée use four fowls instead of three.

No. 809. Filets de Volatile aux truffes.

Fillet three fowls as before, sauté the same, then have a pint of the sauce suprême (No. 57) in a stewpan, boil the sauce, and when boiling throw in four preserved truffles in slices, add a tablespoonful of thick cream, sauce over and serve.

No. 810. Filets de Volaille aux truffes à la Béchamel.

Proceed with the fillets as before, put fifteen spoonfuls of sauce béchamel (No. 7) in a stewpan, with eight of white stock, reduce till rather thick, then add four truffles in slices, with a little salt and sugar, when again boiling add two tablespoonfuls of good thick cream, sauce over and serve.

No. 811. Filets de Volaille aux champignons.

Prepare the fillets of three fowls as before, sauté and dress them as usual; wash and turn half a pottle of mushrooms, pass the heads in a stewpan with a little butter, salt, lemon-juice, and two tablespoonfuls of water, boil three minutes, then in another stewpan have a pint of the sauce suprême (No. 57), add the mushrooms with their stock, skim well, boil altogether ten minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of good thick cream and a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

No. 812. Filets de Volaille aux champignons à la Béchamel.

Proceed as before with the fillets, and likewise prepare half a pottle of white mushrooms as in the last, but saving the trimmings, which put in another stewpan with half the liquor from the mushrooms and a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 7), reduce till rather thick, then pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add a little sugar and your mushrooms, previously drained on a cloth, boil altogether two minutes, add half a gill of boiling milk, sauce over and serve.

No. 813. Filets de Poulet à l’Ambassadrice.

Roast three fowls in vegetables as directed in the Removes, cut out the fillets and proceed exactly as for filets de poulardes à l’ambassadrice (No. 792).

No. 814. Filets de Poulet à la Strasbourgienne.

Roast two large fowls in vegetables, and when cold take out the fillets, and with a thin knife divide each fillet in halves, to form two out of one, then pound two ounces of foie gras de Strasbourg (a small tureen of which can be purchased at any respectable Italian warehouse in London) in a mortar, and rub it through a hair sieve, put a spoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan with half a pat of butter, stir them a few minutes over the fire, then add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce till rather thick, add the foie gras, and when ready to boil take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, leave it to get cold, then spread it over the fillets the eighth of an inch in thickness, have three eggs in a basin well-beaten, take each fillet on a fork, dip them into the eggs, throw them in a dish of bread-crumbs, take them out, pat them gently with a knife and repeat the operation, have four pounds of hot lard in a stewpan, in which fry them a light brown colour, dress in crown on a small border of mashed potatoes, and serve with fried water-cresses in the centre quite dry, with a little gravy separate.

No. 815. Filets de Volaille à la Duchesse.

Fillet three fowls, with the filets mignons making nine fillets, lard four of the fillets neatly and braise them as you would a sweetbread, then sauté the remainder of the fillets as usual; dress them alternately on a border of mashed potatoes, two larded, and the other plain, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan with six spoonfuls of white stock, a small bunch of parsley, and the trimmings of some fresh mushrooms, boil till it becomes thick, keeping it stirred, add half a pint of cream and pass it through a tammie into another stewpan in which you have placed a dozen of dressed cockscombs (No. 128), boil it up, then sauce over the plain fillets, put the cockscombs in the centre, glaze the larded fillets lightly and serve. If too thick, add a little stock to the sauce.

No. 816. Epigramme de Filets de Volaille à la Josephine.

Prepare and cook the fillets of three fowls as above, cut also four pieces from a cooked tongue the size and shape of your fillets, warm them in stock, make a small border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the larded fillets first, then the plain, then the tongue to form a crown, sauce with a thin purée of green peas (No. 86) in the centre, glaze the tongue and larded fillets, and serve.

No. 817. Filets de Volaille aux concombres.

Fillet three fowls as usual, place them in a sauté-pan with butter, season and put by until ready; have two fine cucumbers cut in pieces three inches in length, split each piece in halves, take out the seeds and peel so as not to leave a mark of green upon it, trim each piece as near the size and shape of the fillets as possible, blanch them three minutes in boiling water with salt, drain them on a sieve, put them in a sauté-pan with a little sugar and some good white stock, set them on the fire till the cucumber is tender and the stock has reduced to demi-glace, then sauté your fillets, and dress upon a small border of mashed potatoes alternately with a piece of the cucumber, add the remainder of the cucumber and the demi-glace to a demi-purée of cucumbers (No. 105) (but keep it quite white), with which sauce over and serve. The cucumbers must be the best for this purpose and fresh, or you will not be able to succeed.

No. 818. Fricassée de Poulet à la Chevalière.

Fillet two fowls but leave the pinions of the wings attached to them, lard and braise as directed for filets de poulardes à la Marie Stuart (No. 793), cut off the legs nicely, and take out the thigh-bone, leaving the leg-bone, but cutting it off above the knuckle; cut each back also into two pieces and trim neatly, put the legs and pieces of back into a stewpan, just cover them with one pint of water and two of stock, add a little pepper, salt, and a small bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, with an onion in slices, and two cloves, set them over the fire, let simmer twenty minutes, and skim well; then take out the pieces and put them on a cloth to dry, trim neatly and place them into another stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, pass them five minutes over the fire, then add one tablespoonful of flour, mix well; you have previously passed the stock you boiled the fowl in through a cloth, pour it over the fricassée, which keep stirred till boiling, then stand it at the corner to simmer, skim well, it requires to be rather thin, let simmer nearly an hour, then take out the pieces very carefully and place them in another stewpan, put a spoonful of chopped mushrooms in the sauce, reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie over the pieces of fowl, place it again on the fire, add twelve cockscombs, twelve mushrooms, and twelve slices of truffles, let simmer a minute, finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with three tablespoonfuls of milk, take it off the fire immediately, put a little mashed potatoes in the bottom of your dish, take out the four pieces of back, place two in the centre of the dish and two others over to form a square, stand the four legs upright around, drain the four fillets on a cloth, (let them be a nice colour,) and dress them over; place the garniture from the sauce on the top to form a pyramid, sauce over the legs and round, glaze the fillets lightly and serve.

No. 819. Fricassée de Poulet à l’Ancienne.

Cut two fowls into eight pieces each, that is, two legs, two wings, with a piece of the fillet, two pieces of back, and two pieces of breast, put them into a stewpan with two quarts of warm water, let them remain ten minutes to disgorge, pour off all the water, then just cover them with cold water, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, and one of salt, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, with an onion in slices, and two cloves, simmer gently twenty minutes, skim well, take out the pieces, lay them on a cloth, and trim them into neat pieces, then place them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, pass over the fire five minutes keeping them moved; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, pass the stock the pieces were boiled in through a cloth over, stir all together, then have peeled forty button onions, throw them in and boil altogether nearly an hour very gently (keeping it skimmed), till the sauce is sufficiently thick, then finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of milk, stir it in quick and do not let it boil afterwards, put a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of the dish, dress the pieces in pyramid, commencing with the backs, and finishing with the breasts upon the top, sauce all over and serve.

No. 820. Petits Poulets Printaniers sauté aux truffes.

Procure two spring chickens, cut each one in halves, then again divide the wings from the legs, thus making eight pieces of the two; cut off the legs just above the knuckle, break the back-bones with a knife, put half a pound of butter in a flat stewpan, let it melt, lay in the pieces of chicken, let them remain over a slow fire until they become rather brown, then turn them, let them remain until the other side is browned, then pour off as much of the butter as possible, and add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) with ten spoonfuls of consommé, place it again over the fire, and when boiling throw in four large truffles cut in thin slices and a little sugar, keep moving them round gently till the sauce adheres to the pieces; then take them out, dress as elevated as possible, sauce over and serve. Poulet printanier sauté aux champignons, and ditto aux olives, are done precisely the same, only substituting twenty stoned olives, or thirty heads of mushrooms, for the truffles.

No. 821. Poulet Printanier braisé à la Financière.

Roast a spring chicken very white in vegetables, as directed in the Removes, when done draw out the string, place it in the centre of an entrée-dish, and serve with a sauce financière (No. 50) over, they may also be served with a sauce à la béchamel (No. 7) or any of the sauces directed for the flancs.

No. 822. Petits Poulets Printaniers sauce remoulade (chaude).

Take out the back-bone of a good-sized chicken, cut the legs off at the knuckles, break the leg-bone, then make an incision in the thigh and draw the legs through to the inside; break the joints of the wings, and beat the chicken rather flat, then put a piece of butter in a sauté-pan, when melted lay in your chicken, pass it over a slow fire ten minutes, turn it and place it again over till it becomes slightly coloured, then lay it on a dish, season well with pepper and salt; egg all over, throw it into bread-crumbs, cover all over, place it on a gridiron over a slow fire and broil it a nice yellow colour; have ready the following sauce: put six tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan with four of white stock, place it over the fire, and when boiling add six spoonfuls of well-seasoned sauce remoulade (No. 38), stir it quickly over the fire until hot, but do not let it boil, pour it in your dish, garnish the edge with fillets of gherkins, lay the chicken over, which glaze lightly and serve.

No. 823. Poulet Printanier grillé aux champignons confit.

Prepare and broil a chicken exactly as in the last, put the juice from a small bottle of pickled mushrooms, not too salt, in a stewpan with a spoonful of chopped eschalots; reduce to half, then add twelve spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), season with a little cayenne pepper and sugar, boil till rather thick, add the mushrooms from the bottle, when hot pour the sauce in the dish, dress the fowl over, which glaze and serve. Spring chickens broiled may also be served with sauce piquante (No. 27), poivrade (No. 33), tomate (No. 37), fresh mushrooms (No. 52), or à la maréchal (No. 532).

After having used the fillets of fowls or chickens, the legs may be dressed in any of the methods given for legs of poulardes or capons, of course their not being so large, they will not require so long to cook, but there being six instead of four legs, they will require the same quantity of sauce; they may also be served in any of the following ways.

No. 824. Cuisses de Volaille truffés à la Périgord.

Cut off the six legs with as much of the skin as possible attached, giving them a round shape, take out the thigh-bone, and cut off the leg above the knuckle, then stuff the round part with a preparation of truffles, as for poularde à la Marie Stuart (No. 528), showing the truffles under the skin, sew them up, and braise as directed for that article; when done put a thin oval border of mashed potatoes on your dish, and dress the legs upon it, three on each side; place a small paper frill upon each bone, and serve with a purée of truffles (No. 53) in the centre and round; the purée must be rather thin.

No. 825. Cuisses de Volaille à la Dino.

Prepare, stuff, and braise six legs as in the last, also have a fine larded sweetbread (No. 671) which braise with the legs, glaze and salamander of a nice gold colour, then have poached an oval piece of forcemeat (No. 120), an inch and a half high, three inches long, and two inches broad, place the sweetbread on the top, and dress the legs round, three upon each side, place a fine cockscomb between each leg to hide the forcemeat, fix them there by running little pegs made of stiff paste through them, sauce over the legs with a sauce à l’Italienne (No. 31), glaze the sweetbread, and serve very hot.

No. 826. Cuisses de Volaille braisé aux concombres.

Prepare and bone six legs as above, season them with a little pepper, salt, and very finely-chopped eschalots, then have ready half a pound of forcemeat of fowl, with which stuff them, sew them round and braise as before; when done dress them on your dish as described for cuisses de volaille truffés à la Périgord (No. 824), sauce in the middle and round with a garniture and sauce aux concombres (No. 103), and serve.

No. 827. Cuisses de Volaille braisé aux pois.

Prepare, bone, stuff, and braise as the last, dress the same, and serve with stewed peas round and in the centre. For stewed peas (see No. 1077.)

The legs braised as above may also be served with a sauce Palestine (No. 87) or à la jardiniere (No. 100.)

No. 828. Cuisses de Volaille en fricassée à l’Ancienne

See (No. 819) and proceed exactly the same; dress them on the dish, and serve as above.

No. 829. Cuisses de Volaille à la Marengo.

Cut off the legs neatly as before, taking out the thigh-bone, and proceed as directed for petits poussins à la Marengo (see Flancs, No. 596), dress them pyramidically, sauce over, and serve. The whole of a fowl may be dressed in this manner by cutting it up as directed for poulet printanier (No. 820), and proceeding as described where above directed.

No. 830. Poulet à la Provençale.

Cut up a large fowl or a small poularde into eight pieces, that is, the two legs, the two wings, with a piece of the fillet attached, two pieces of breast and two pieces of back, put them into a sauté-pan with eight spoonfuls of oil and six onions, peeled and cut in thin slices, season with a little pepper and salt, place it over a slow fire, move and turn them occasionally; when done, lay them on a cloth, to drain off all the oil, put a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your dish, dress the inferior pieces at the bottom, and the better one at the top, dressing them as tastefully as possible, put the stewpan again on the fire, pour off as much oil as possible, and mix a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour with the onions, then twelve spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and eight of white stock, add a little scraped garlic the size of a pea, and a little more sugar, take it off the fire, stir in the yolks of two eggs, sauce over, egg and bread-crumb all over, set it in a very hot oven ten minutes, salamander, and serve.

No. 831. Turban de Quenelles de Volaille à la Russe.

Take the flesh of a nice delicate large fowl, and with it make some forcemeat as directed (No. 122); when done make eight large quenelles with two silver tablespoons, by filling one of them with forcemeat, dip your knife in hot water, and smooth it over in a slight dome, then dip the other spoon in hot water, and scoop the quenelle from the first spoon with it, taking it into the hot spoon, from which it will easily slip, place them in a buttered sauté-pan, and cover with good second broth, place them over a quick fire, boil twenty minutes, and lay them out on a cloth; cut also eight pieces from a boiled Russian tongue, the size of the quenelles and the thickness of two five-shilling pieces which warm in a little consommé; make a border of mashed potatoes, cut a little piece off the bottom of each quenelle, and dress them alternately with a piece of the tongue in crown; break the bones of the fowl up very small, and put them in a stewpan with a glass of sherry, one minced onion, one bay-leaf, a little thyme, and one clove; boil it two minutes, then add a quart of white stock, reduce it to half, skim off all the fat, and pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon; finish with two tablespoonfuls of good thick cream, and a little sugar, sauce over the quenelles, glaze the tongue, and serve with the remainder of the sauce round and in the centre.

No. 832. Quenelles de Volaille à l’Ecarlate.

Proceed precisely as above, using plain ox-tongue instead of the Russian.

No. 833. Quenelles de Volaille aux concombres.

Make eight quenelles as before, then procure a fine hothouse cucumber, from which cut and trim eight pieces the size of your quenelles, put them in a stewpan with a pat of butter and a little sugar, pass them over a slow fire ten minutes, then add six spoonfuls of white broth, and let them simmer very gently till quite done, but not too much so, or it would be impossible to dress them; then poach the quenelles and lay them on a cloth to drain with the cucumber, have ready a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, cut a little piece off the bottom of each quenelle, and dress them alternately with the cucumber in crown; have ready the following sauce: add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7) to the stock the cucumber was dressed in, reduce it till it adheres to the spoon, add a tablespoonful of cream, sauce over, and serve.

No. 834. Quenelles de Volaille en demi deuil.

Make twelve quenelles as before, poach them and lay them on a cloth, have ready chopped two or three very black truffles, dip six of the quenelles in some egg well-beaten, roll them in the chopped truffles, place them in a dish, cover them up and stand them in the hot closet an hour; place the other six in some fresh stock in a stewpan and keep hot in the bain-marie, have ready a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, cut a piece off the bottom of each of the quenelles, dress the six black ones on one side and the white ones on the other to form a crown, put ten spoonfuls of milk in a stewpan, boil it, and add a pint of white sauce (No 7); reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add two pats of butter and the juice of a lemon, sauce over the white quenelles; you will probably have a few chopped truffles left, which sprinkle over, and serve the remainder of the sauce in the centre.

No. 835. Quenelles de Volaille à la York Minster.

Make and poach twelve quenelles as before, dip them in egg, and then roll them in some finely chopped cooked lean York ham, place them on a dish, cover and put them in the hot closet to dry; make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, and dress one red and one white quenelle alternately, put twelve good spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with ten of boiled milk and a little sugar, let reduce till it adheres to the spoon, add about forty strips of the cooked ham cut the size of julienne-roots, sauce over and serve; finish the sauce with a little cream.

No. 836. Quenelles de Volaille à la Pair de France.

Make eight quenelles as before, and when laying in the sauté-pan make a long incision in each, in which put a very white middle-sized dressed cockscomb, cover them with white stock, and poach very gently for a quarter of an hour; have also poached a solid piece of forcemeat four inches in diameter and two and a half in height, with a long round cutter cut four holes near the centre, large enough to stand in four plovers’ eggs, which peel and warm in a little stock, and between the four on the top place a fifth; cut a small piece off the bottom of each quenelle, and stand them upright upon a little mashed potatoes against the centre piece, the cockscombs facing outwards, sauce over with a very white thin purée of artichokes (No. 90), and serve with a little chopped chervil sprinkled over them.

No. 837. Quenelles de Volaille à la Silêne.

Pass a tablespoonful of chopped onions in butter in a stewpan over a sharp fire, and when they begin to colour add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well in, then add half a pint of brown sauce, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, two teaspoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, and one of chopped parsley, reduce five minutes, take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly; you have previously poached ten quenelles as before, and when cold dip them into the above sauce, covering them all over, (previously cutting a small piece off the bottom,) then dip them into some egg well-beaten, and then into bread-crumbs, pat them a little with your knife and repeat the operation; fry them a nice colour in a stewpan containing four pounds of very hot lard, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of consommé free from salt in a stewpan, with some bones of a raw or cooked fowl and a bunch of parsley, boil it till reduced to half, squeeze in the juice of twelve grapes, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, reduce to a thin glaze, add half a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and a little sugar, pour it in the centre of your dish and serve very hot.

No. 838. Boudins de Volaille à la Richelieu.

Make sufficient of the above forcemeat, for twelve quenelles, lay a little flour on your dresser, upon which place twelve pieces of the forcemeat, each of the size of a quenelle, roll each a little with the hand, then with a knife form them into pieces two inches long and nearly an inch wide, place them in a buttered sauté-pan as you do them, and poach exactly as for the quenelles, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, sauce over with a sauce Périgueux (No. 55) and serve.

No. 839. Boudins de Volaille à la Sully.

Make the same quantity of forcemeat as for the last, lay it on your dresser and divide it into five pieces, flatten them with your knife, having sufficient flour on the board to prevent them sticking; have a salpicon as for croquettes (see next), place a little of it upon the centre of each piece of forcemeat, roll them up, place them in a buttered sauté-pan, cover with stock and poach them twenty minutes, drain on a cloth, cut off the ends, and lay them on your dish, three at the bottom and two across, sauce the same as the last and serve.

No. 840. Croquettes de Volaille aux truffes.

Cut up a small braised fowl (or the remains of two or three left from a previous dinner) into very small dice (or mince), cut also two large truffles of the same size, put half a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots into a stewpan with half an ounce of butter, pass them three minutes over the fire, add a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, then put in the fowl and truffles and half a pint of white sauce (No. 7)--or more if not sufficiently moist, boil all together ten minutes, season with a little white pepper, salt, and sugar, then stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir another minute over the fire, turn it out on a dish to cool; when cold take twelve pieces, each the size of a very large walnut, roll them about an inch and a half in length, egg and bread-crumb twice over and fry a good colour in hot lard, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce aux truffes (No. 51) in the centre. The remainder of a previous dinner of any kind of poultry may be used for croquettes.

No. 841. Croquettes de Volaille au Jambon

Are made in the same manner as in the last, only using cooked lean ham instead of truffles, and serving a little blanquette de volaille au jambon (see blanquette de dinde, No. 88) in the centre; croquettes de volaille à l’écarlate are made the same, merely substituting some cooked tongue and adding tongue to the blanquette; when made larger they are called boudins, but the croquettes are preferable, being more crisp.

No. 842. Rissolettes de Volaille à la Pompadour.

Make half a pound of forcemeat (No. 122), then have ready two buttered sauté-pans, place half of the forcemeat in the centre of each, then spread it over the bottom to the thickness of half-a-crown piece with a spoon, occasionally dipping the spoon in white of egg; then cover them over with stock and place them on a moderate fire, let them simmer for five minutes, take off as much of the stock as possible, and leave them in the sauté-pans to get half cold, take them out with a fish-slice, place one of them on a dish, then have prepared a salpicon as for the croquettes aux truffes (No. 840), cover the sheet of forcemeat with it a quarter of an inch in thickness, then cover the other sheet over it, press them lightly together; when cold cut it out in diamond shapes (with a knife) about two inches long and one wide; then have ready the following sauce: put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a quarter of a pat of butter, pass them over the fire two minutes, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and half a gill of milk, boil altogether five minutes, keeping it stirred; then take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir it over the fire another half a minute, then take each piece upon a fork and dip it into the sauce, cover it all over and place it upon a plate; proceed in like manner till they are all done, put them by till quite cold, have ready some good fritter-batter (No. 1285) made with milk, dip each rissolette in with a fork and drop it into a stewpan of rather hot lard, fry five minutes, dress them on a napkin, and serve with plenty of fried parsley the moment they are done.

They may also be served with sauce (omitting the napkin) as follows: put eight spoonfuls of white sauce into a stewpan, with six of cream, place it over the fire a few minutes, add a little sugar and salt, sauce round and serve.

No. 843. Filets de Canetons aux petits pois.

Roast four ducklings in vegetables as directed in the Removes, take away the vegetables just before they are done, to give the breasts a slight colour; then cut out the fillets very neatly, dress them on a small border of mashed potatoes with a thin crouton of fried bread between each, put a pint and a half of young green peas (previously boiled) in a stewpan, with the gravy that has run from the ducklings, two ounces of fresh butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt, keep tossing them over the fire till quite hot, then add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, stir it in quickly, place them in the centre of the dish in pyramid and serve.

No. 844. Filets de Canetons à la chicorée.

Proceed with the ducklings precisely as above, fillet and dress the same, serve with some endive prepared as directed (No. 119) in the centre, but not too much nor too thick.

No. 845. Filets de Canetons à la macédoine de lêgumes.

Roast and fillet four ducklings as before, then prepare a stand of vegetables as directed for Chartreuse (No. 604), but not more than two inches in height, fill it with stewed cabbage well pressed and almost dry, and turn it out on your dish; when perfectly hot and the vegetables sufficiently cooked, dress the fillets in crown on the top, have ready a Macédoine de legume (No. 98), which dress in pyramid in the centre and serve.

No. 846. Filets de Canetons au jus d’orange.

Roast and fillet four ducklings as before, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and have ready the following sauce: put twenty spoonfuls of brown sauce in a stewpan with ten of white stock, place it over the fire to boil, with some bones from the breast of the ducklings, boil to a demi-glace, keeping it skimmed, take out the bones and pass the sauce through a tammie, then add the rind of an orange free from pith, which you have previously cut in fillets and blanched five minutes in boiling water, boil the sauce a few minutes, keeping it stirred, and finish with the juice of half the orange, sauce over and serve. This sauce requires to be quite transparent, but to have consistence enough to adhere to the fillets; filets de canetons à la bigarade are the same as above, merely substituting a Seville or real bigarade for a sweet orange.

No. 847. Filets de Canetons farcis.

Bone a duckling by placing it on your board and opening it at the back-bone, which is first to be taken out, then lay it out flat: take out the other bones singly, and cover the interior with forcemeat of fowl (No. 122), filling up every cavity and making it perfectly level on the top, put some thin slices of bacon at the bottom of a deep sauté-pan with a bunch of parsley and a few onions in slices, lay the duckling over and cover with white stock, lay a sheet of buttered paper over and put it in a slow oven for one hour or more till tender, take it up, lay it on a dish free from the bacon or onions, place another dish over and press it till cold, then cut it into pieces the size and shape of the other fillets above, warm them in a sauté-pan in a little good stock, dress them in crown and serve in any of the preceding ways.

ENTRÉES OF GAME.

No. 848. Filets de Lièvre sauce reforme.

Procure three good-sized but young hares, when skinned lay them on a table and pass a knife down the back-bone, from the shoulder to the leg, keeping it close to the ribs till you have extracted the fillet, when done lay the fillets on a board the skin side downwards, and with a thin knife cut off the whole of the skin, by pressing your hand upon the fillet and drawing the knife along from the thin end to the thick; cut each fillet in halves, beat them lightly, trim them of a nice shape, and lard them neatly, then cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, lay the fillets over, add three onions in slices with a bunch of parsley, a blade of mace, and a couple of cloves, put in a little broth, but not to cover them, place the lid on the stewpan and place them in a moderate oven till tender, glaze and salamander a nice colour, take them out, drain them a minute on a cloth, trim nicely, and dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce reforme (No. 35) over, previously placing a thin piece of toasted bread the same size as the fillets between each.

No. 849. Filets de Lièvre piqué sauce poivrade.

Proceed exactly as in the last, dress them in crown without the pieces of toast, and serve with a sauce poivrade (No. 32) over, dressed in the same manner, they may be served with a sauce tomate (No. 37).

No. 850. Filets de Lièvre piqué à la Bourguignote.

Proceed and dress your fillets exactly as before, and have ready the following sauce: peel forty button onions, then put a little pounded sugar in a stewpan, which place over the fire, when it melts and turns yellowish put in a pat of butter and your onions, keep moving them over a slow fire till they become rather brown, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and six tablespoonfuls of consommé, place it at the corner of the stove, and skim well, let simmer till the onions are done; then take them out with a colander spoon and place them in another stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie over the onions, have twenty pieces of cooked streaky bacon in diamonds the size of the onions, put them in the sauce, which make hot, but not to boil, sauce over and serve.

No. 851. Filets de Lièvre piqué, mariné en demi-glace.

Prepare and lard twelve pieces of fillets as usual, have ready a quart of marinade, see filet de bœuf à la Bohemienne (No. 426), and put them into it for three days; when wanted dry them on a cloth, butter a sauté-pan, lay in the fillets, cover them with a sheet of buttered paper, and stand them twenty minutes in a moderate oven, glaze and salamander a light brown, and dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, then pour as much of the butter off from the sauté-pan as possible, and put eight spoonfuls of the marinade and a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) into it, reduce over the fire, keeping it stirred till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a small piece of glaze and a teaspoonful of currant jelly; sauce over and serve.

No. 852. Escalopes de Lièvre à la Chasseur.

Fillet three hares as before and cut each fillet into four escalopes in a slanting direction; beat them into an oval shape, put an ounce of butter in a deep sauté-pan, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots; when the butter is melted lay in the escalopes, season them with a little pepper and salt, and place them on a sharp fire; when half done turn them over, be careful not to do them too much; when done dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, pour off the butter, then put a glass of port wine in the sauté-pan, with fifteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), a little salt, and sugar, reduce it three minutes, keeping it stirred, sauce over and serve.

No. 853. Cotelettes de Lièvre à la Dauphine.

Fillet two hares as before, and out of each fillet cut three cotelettes by cutting each fillet in halves, making one of the thin end and cutting the thick into two equal slices, thus making twelve pieces of the four fillets; beat them of an equal thickness, boil the rib-bones of one of the hares till all the flesh comes off, and stick a bone in each piece to imitate the bone of a cotelette, egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in oil a nice colour, but not too much done, dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and sauce over with a sauce piquante (No. 27) in which you have introduced a few chopped olives.

No. 854. Turban de Lièvre à la Péronne.

Fillet one large hare and make six cotelettes out of the two fillets as in the last, egg and bread-crumb them with a little chopped ham mixed with the bread-crumbs, and fry in oil as before; you have previously made forcemeat of the legs as described (No. 123), with which make six large quenelles, poach, and dish them on a border of mashed potatoes alternately with the cotelettes; have ready the following sauce: put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with two of tarragon vinegar and a piece of glaze half the size of a walnut, place over the fire two minutes, add a pint of white sauce and eight spoonfuls of white stock, reduce till rather thick, then add a little sugar and twenty small pickled onions; sauce over the quenelles, glaze the cotelettes and serve.

For boudins de lièvre, or quenelles, proceed the same as for boudins or quenelles de volaille, only using forcemeat made from the legs of the hare instead of the forcemeat of fowl; and for jugged hare and civet de lièvre, see Kitchen at Home. They may be made from the legs after you have taken the fillets for other purposes.

No. 855. Filets de Lapereau à la Valencienne.

For entrées the tame rabbits are the best, and most preferable; but the wild are very good and may be dressed in any of the following ways.

Take three or four young rabbits, skin and fillet them the same as the hares; if the fillets are sufficiently large cut each one in halves forming each piece in the shape of a small cotelette, beat them lightly and of equal thickness, place them in a buttered sauté-pan, season with a little white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, place them over a moderate fire and when half done turn them; they are done as soon as they feel firm to the touch, and must be kept quite white, dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, put eighteen spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in the sauté-pan, with ten of white stock, stir over the fire till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little pepper and salt if required, finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream and the juice of half a lemon; sauce over and serve.

No. 856. Filets de Lapereau à l’Ecarlate.

Fillet three rabbits and so cut the fillets as to have nine pieces, which cook as in the last, then cut nine slices of cooked ham of the same size and shape as the fillets, and make them hot in a little stock, dress them alternately with the fillets in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, then put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and half a pint of white stock in the sauté-pan, stir over the fire until nearly thick enough, then add twenty heads of blanched mushrooms and a little sugar, boil another minute, and finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream; sauce over the fillets, glaze the tongue and serve.

No. 857. Turban de Lapereau à la Douarière.

Fillet three good-sized rabbits and cut each fillet in halves, making twelve pieces, six of which lard neatly; dress the six plain as before, but the six larded ones must be braised like sweetbreads, and glazed, and salamander a good colour, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the fillets alternately, (one larded and one plain,) in crown, put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in the sauté-pan, with half a pint of consommé, boil and skim, add half a glass of sherry, and a little salt, pepper, and sugar, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37) and twenty small quenelles from forcemeat made with the legs of the rabbits, as described (No. 121); when hot, sauce over the plain fillets, glaze the larded ones, put all the quenelles in the centre and serve.

No. 858. Epigramme de Filets de Lapereau.

Proceed precisely as in the last, only dressing the six plain fillets on one side and the larded ones on the other instead of alternately, and add twelve dressed cockscombs and twelve blanched mushrooms to the garniture in the sauce; or they may be served with a blanquette made from the legs of the rabbits, previously braised, proceeding as described for blanquette de dinde (No. 791).

No. 859. Filets de Lapereau à la Musulmane.

Lard twelve pieces of fillets from three or four rabbits, braise them as you would sweetbreads; when done glaze and salamander of a light colour, and dress in crown as high as possible; you have boiled half a pound of good rice (No. 129), season it with a little salt, and mix four pats of butter and a pinch of saffron with it, dress it in pyramid in the centre of your dish, serve with a thin currie sauce (No. 46) round the fillets, and some separate in a boat; serve very hot.

No. 860. Cotelettes de Lapereau aux petites racines.

Fillet three rabbits, cut each fillet in halves and shape them in the form of cotelettes, sticking a piece of the rib-bone of the rabbit in at the thin end, egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in oil of a light brown colour, dress in crown, glaze them lightly, and sauce as directed for grenadins de veau (No. 692).

The legs and shoulders may be used for pies, curries, or fricassées, which I give in my Kitchen at Home.

No. 861. Lapereau sauté aux truffes.

Procure two nice young rabbits, which cut into twelve pieces, being two legs, two shoulders, and two nice pieces from the back of each; put four ounces of butter in a thick-bottomed sauté-pan; when melted lay in the pieces and proceed as directed for petits poulets sauté aux truffes (No. 820). Lapereau sauté aux champignons is done the same, using mushrooms instead of truffles, and lapereau sauté aux fines herbes, by using a sauce fines herbes (No. 26) instead of the brown sauce, and omitting both the truffles and mushrooms.

No. 862. Lapereau à la Marengo.

Cut up two rabbits precisely as above, and proceed as directed for poulet printanier à la Marengo (No. 829), dress them as high as possible on the dish, pyramidically, sauce over and serve.

No. 863. Rabbit Currie.

Cut up two rabbits as before, and cook them as for sauté aux truffes (No. 861); when done and nicely browned pour off as much butter as possible and pour a quart of currie sauce (No. 46) over, add twenty button onions, previously stewed in a little broth, and twenty pieces of cooked streaky bacon cut in small diamonds, stand them over a slow fire twenty minutes, keeping it stirred occasionally; then build the pieces up in your dish, sauce over and serve with rice (No. 129) in a separate dish; should the sauce be too thick moisten it with a drop of broth, but it requires to be thick enough to adhere to the rabbit.

No. 864. Fricassée de Lapereau.

Cut up two young rabbits as before, and put them two hours in warm water to disgorge, then put them in a stewpan just covered with clear water, add two onions, one carrot, a bunch of parsley, two cloves, and a little salt, boil half an hour at the corner of the stove, and skim well, take out the pieces and pass the stock through a cloth, trim each piece of rabbit nicely, and put it in another stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, pass them over the fire three minutes, then mix one ounce of flour with them, pour the stock over and add fifty peeled button onions, stir round gently until boiling, then draw it to the corner of the fire and let simmer till the rabbit is very tender, then take them out, with the onions, and put them in another stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie over the rabbit and onions, add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, stir it in gently, place it over the fire but do not let it boil, dress the rabbit in your dish and sauce over; mushrooms may be added, and the onions ought to be kept as whole as possible.

No. 865. Faisans au velouté de Gibier.

Roast two small young pheasants in vegetables as directed for the Removes, let them get cold, then cut off neatly the two wings, two legs, and two pieces from the breasts of each, which will make twelve very nice pieces, take off the skin and place them in a stewpan, cover them with a little stock and six spoonfuls of velouté (No. 6), put them in the bain marie to warm gently, then put a quart of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a pint of white stock and the backs and trimmings of the pheasants cut up very small, reduce till it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon, pour off the stock from the pieces of pheasants, place a tammie over the stewpan, over which hold a colander, pour the sauce through the colander, and then squeeze it through the tammie, add a little sugar and a little cream, place the stewpan over the fire but do not let its contents boil, dress the pieces of pheasants in pyramid, placing a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of the dish to keep them in their place; sauce over and serve.

No. 866. Faisans à la purée de Gibier.

Cut up two small pheasants as above, dress them in pyramid on your dish and serve with a sauce à la purée de gibier (No. 59) over, have about fifty very small croutons of bread, diamond shape, and fried in oil, which sprinkle over the last thing before serving.

No. 867. Filets de Faisans à la Comte de Brabant.

Fillet two full-grown young pheasants as you would a fowl, lard and braise them exactly the same, have half boiled in water sixty very fine Brussels sprouts, drain them in a colander and put them in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon, season with a little pepper and salt, add a pint of good stock and stew them over a moderate fire till the stock is reduced to glaze, take out the sprouts, squeeze them together between two dishes, and dress them as a perfect pyramid in the centre of your dish, glaze and salamander the fillets nicely, and dress a fillet on each side with a thin slice of the bacon at each corner, place a quenelle at the top, and sauce round with the sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60); serve immediately.

No. 868. Filets de Faisans piqué aux légumes.

Lard and braise six fillets from three pheasants as above, have a fine fresh cucumber, cut six pieces from it of the same size as the fillets, which stew in a little stock in which you have put half a teaspoonful of sugar; when tender but not too much done drain them on a cloth; make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the fillets and pieces of cucumber alternately in crown; have ready a small jardinière sauce (No. 100) to which you have added a few blanched mushrooms, put the vegetables in the centre with a piece of boiled (or a small) cauliflower on the top, sauce round, glaze the fillets and serve.

No. 869. Turban de Faisans en salmi.

Roast two pheasants in vegetables as directed in the Removes, cut them into quarters, that is, the four breasts with the wings and the legs with a piece of the back-bone, beat and trim them lightly, cut off the pinion from the wings, and make the breasts and legs nearly of the same shape, place them in a stewpan, cover them with a little stock, put the lid on the stewpan and set in the bain marie to get hot, make a border of forcemeat (see ris de veau à la Turque No. 673); when done place it in the centre of your dish and dress the pieces in crown upon it, sauce over with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60) in which you have put four large truffles in slices, or twenty button mushrooms; serve very hot.

No. 870. Filets de Faisans à la Marquise.

Fillet four young pheasants, lard and braise four of the fillets, (as for the filets aux légumes), egg the other four over with a paste-brush and throw them into a plate in which you have chopped ham and bread-crumbs mixed, cover them well, beat gently with a knife, and fry a light brown in a little clarified butter, make a small border of mashed potatoes upon your dish and dress the fillets alternately upon it; you have previously prepared a sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58), rather more than a pint, add twenty very white dressed cockscombs, when hot sauce round and garniture in the centre; glaze your fillets and serve; a spoonful of whipped cream would also be a great improvement added to the sauce when finished.

No. 871. Filets de Faisans à la Maintenon.

Prepare eight small or four large fillets divided into two separate slices, put them in a sauté-pan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, place them over a sharp fire, sauté them very underdone, and lay them on a cloth, put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in the sauté-pan, fry them till turning yellow, then add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), two spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, two of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce till rather thick, keeping it stirred, lay in the fillets to warm, and leave them to get cold in the sauce, have eight pieces of paper each cut in the shape of a heart, and large enough to fold a fillet in, place a fillet in each with the sauce equally divided amongst them, fold the papers over, twisting them up at the edges, and place them on the gridiron to broil over a slow fire; when done dress in crown on your dish leaving them in the papers, and serve with a little plain gravy.

After having used the fillets of pheasants one day the legs may be used the next, by roasting in vegetables and trimming them nicely; serve either à la Brabant (No. 867), or en salmi (No. 869); but the legs of large pheasants being so stringy will not make a very delicate entrée, and it is much better to convert them into a sauce à la purée de gibier (No. 59), soup, (No. 175), or forcemeat (No. 123).

No. 872. Turban de Quenelles de Faisans.

Proceed exactly as for the quenelles de volaille, only using a forcemeat made from the flesh of pheasants instead of fowl, dress them in crown, and serve with a sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58), purée de gibier (No. 59), or sauce fumée de gibier, either of which may be garnished with cockscombs, truffles, or mushrooms, as directed for the entrées of pheasants.

Boudins de faisans are served the same way only shaping them as directed for boudins de volaille à la Richelieu (No. 838), with which sauce they may also be served.

No. 873. Grouse à la Commodore.

Prepare two young but full-grown grouse, roast one of them underdone, and make forcemeat (No. 123) of the other; when the roasted one is cold cut it into eight pieces, that is, two wings, two legs, two pieces of the back, and two pieces of the breast; cover each piece all over with the forcemeat the sixth of an inch in thickness, egg each piece over and place them in a buttered sauté-pan, just cover them with a little white stock and boil gently ten minutes, lay them on a cloth to drain, put a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your dish, build the pieces in pyramid, and have ready the following sauce: chop the bone of the grouse very small and put them into a stewpan, with three pints of consommé free from salt, an onion, and a little celery, with a bunch of parsley and two cloves, boil gently half an hour, pass the stock through a cloth into a stewpan, reduce to a very thin glaze, then mix a tablespoonful of the best arrow-root with half a glassful of wine and a little cold broth; pour it into the gravy, keeping it stirred, season a little more if required, and when boiling sauce over and serve.

No. 874. Filets de Grouse à la Paoli.

Roast four young grouse in vegetables as described for the Removes, take out the breasts or fillets carefully, have ready a pound of forcemeat (No. 123), with which cover each fillet nearly a quarter of an inch in thickness all over, put them in a buttered sauté-pan, just covered with a little white stock, boil gently ten minutes and lay them on a cloth; have ready eight croutons or pieces of bread, the shape of the fillets and the thickness of a crown-piece, fried in oil a light brown and very crisp, dress the fillets and croutons alternately in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, glaze the croutons, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), sprinkle a few chopped olives over, and serve very hot.

No. 875. Filets de Grouse à la Chancelière.

Fillet four young grouse, trim the fillets as directed for filet de poularde (No. 792), butter a sauté-pan with two ounces of butter, lay in your fillets, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, add a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, place them on the fire, sauté underdone, pour off as much butter as possible, add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) and twenty small quenelles (No. 120); shake the sauté-pan round over the fire two minutes, take out the fillets, which dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes; sauce over, put the fillets and quenelles in the centre and serve.

No. 876. Salmi de Grouse aux truffes.

Plain roast two grouse and cut each one up into eight neat pieces (whilst hot, as for à la commodore), place them in a stewpan, cover them with a thin brown sauce (No. 1), put the cover on the stewpan and place it in the bain marie till the pieces are hot, in another stewpan have a pint and a half of the sauce fumée de gibier, reduce it a third, then add six middling-sized truffles cut in thin slices, and a little sugar; have also six croutons or scippets of fried bread (as for à la Paoli), dress the pieces of grouse in pyramid on your dish, with the croutons well glazed resting upon them round the dish; sauce over and serve.

No. 877. Grouse à la Ailsa.

Roast two grouse, cut them into quarters, that is, the wings with the breasts, and the legs with the back-bone, pound the back and trimmings well in a mortar and put them in a stewpan, with a pint of the sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60), boil five minutes, then pass it through a hair sieve into another stewpan, season with a little salt and sugar if required, and add the yolks of two eggs, stir over the fire till it becomes thickish but do not let it boil, then put in the pieces of grouse; when half cold dress them upon a border of mashed potatoes, sauce and sprinkle bread-crumbs over and place them in a moderate oven half an hour; serve with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) round.

No. 878. Turban de Quenelles de Grouse à la Moderne.

Make and poach twelve quenelles from a forcemeat of grouse (see No. 123), poach them as for quenelles de volaille (No. 831), dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, sauce over with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60), have ready the yolk of a hard-boiled egg chopped very fine, which sprinkle over and serve.

Black cocks and gray hens being larger birds are generally used for roasting, but the gray hen if well kept may be dressed in any of the preceding ways; the ptarmigan also which makes its appearance in February, (a Swedish bird as well as Scotch,) may be used for the same purposes as grouse, the flavour is similar but not quite so good.

No. 879. Perdreaux à la Silène.

Procure three young partridges, pluck and draw them and cut each bird in halves, cut off each leg below the knuckle, break the part of the leg above the knuckle, make an incision in the thigh and turn the leg inside, break the back-bone (in three) the thigh-bone and the joint of the wing in each, place the six halves in a sauté-pan, in which you have put eight tablespoonfuls of oil, fry gently till three parts done, then egg, bread-crumb, and place them on a gridiron over a slow fire, broil them a good colour, and dress in crown upon your dish, then pour off the oil from the sauté-pan, add two glasses of port wine, a spoonful of chopped eschalots and one of chopped mushrooms, pass them over the fire two minutes, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1,) ten spoonfuls of consommé, and a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce till rather thick, finish with the juice of half a lemon, sauce round and serve, slightly glazing the partridges.

No. 880. Perdreaux grillés à la purée de Gibier.

Prepare and broil three partridges as in the last; you have previously roasted an old one and made a purée of it as directed (No. 59), dress the partridges in crown, glaze and serve with the purée round and in the centre.

No. 881. Perdreaux aux choux.

Procure two partridges trussed as for boiling, and lard them with fat bacon lengthwise up the breast; have ready two white-heart savoy cabbages, cut them in quarters and blanch them ten minutes in boiling water; drain them quite dry on a cloth, season well with white pepper and salt, cut off all the stalk and place them in a stewpan with half a pound of streaky bacon; cover with a good white stock and place them over a slow fire to stew until the stock has reduced to a thin glaze and the cabbage is quite tender; you have roasted the two partridges, thrust them quite hot into the cabbage, and place the stewpan containing them in a bain marie to keep hot for one hour, or till ready for use, then drain and press the cabbage in a colander, saving the stock that comes from it; dress in a dome on your dish, take the skewers and strings from the birds and dress them upon the top with slices of the bacon round, broil three sausages, which cut in halves lengthwise and lay round at the bottom, put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan, with twelve spoonfuls of stock from the cabbage, skim off all the fat, reduce to a demi-glace, sauce over and serve.

No. 882. Chartreuses de Perdreaux.

Proceed as directed in the Flancs (Nos. 604, 605, and 606), but using a round mould not too large for the dish instead of oval moulds as there directed.

No. 883. Filets de Perdreaux aux petits légumes.

Roast six young partridges underdone and when nearly cold cut out the breasts or fillets as neatly as possible, place them in a sauté-pan, with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut and a little white stock, warm them and reduce the stock to glaze, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, have prepared some carrots, turnips, and button onions as for sauce à la jardinière (No. 100), pass them over the fire in a little butter and sugar, cover them with a pint of the sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60), six spoonfuls of consommé, and the glaze from the sauté-pan; simmer at the corner of the stove till the vegetables are quite done, skim it well, dress the vegetables in the centre, glaze the fillets and serve.

No. 884. Filets de Perdreaux à la Florentine.

Roast six partridges and fillet them as in the last, warm and dress them precisely the same, then have a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it a third, then add twelve blanched mushrooms, twelve dressed cockscombs, and twelve very small French preserved truffles; add a little sugar, place the garniture in the centre, sauce over and serve.

No. 885. Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Bacchante.

Procure six young partridges, fillet them, take a rib-bone and stick in the small end of each fillet, beat them lightly with a thin knife, take off the skin, season with a little pepper and salt, egg, bread-crumb, and fry of a light brown colour in salad oil, but not too much done, dress them in crown on a small border of mashed potatoes, have ready a pint of the sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58), which you have made from the legs and bones of the birds, which put in a stewpan, with a pint of white stock (No. 138), reduce, and when it adheres to the back of the spoon add fifty Smyrna raisins previously soaked in hot water two hours, and the juice of ten large Portugal grapes, sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve. I have served this curious entrée with English grapes whole in it, and very good it is, being refreshing to the palate, but a person requires to be used to them before they can appreciate.

No. 886. Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Douarière.

Prepare twelve cotelettes as above, fry them in oil and dress them the same on your dish; have a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it one third, have forty small quenelles made from forcemeat from the legs, (see No. 123), the quenelles must be made with very small egg-spoons, as directed for the quenelles (No. 120); when poached lay them on a cloth to drain, put them into the sauce; when hot dress the quenelles in the centre; sauce over and serve.

No. 887. Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Duc de Chartres.

Prepare and dress twelve cotelettes or fillets as before, dress them on a dish and have ready the following sauce: have fifty scoops of turnips the size of small marbles, put them in a stewpan, with an ounce of butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over the fire five minutes, keeping them moved, then add a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), place it on the corner of the stove, let simmer, keeping it skimmed till the turnips are done, finish with a little orange-juice, sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve.

No. 888. Epigramme de Perdreaux à l’essence de Gibier.

Fillet six young partridges, lard six of the fillets, and braise them as for filets de faisans à la Brabant (No. 867), place the other six in a sauté-pan well buttered, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, sauté them gently over a moderate fire, make a thin border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the six larded fillets first, then the six plain ones to form a crown; glaze nicely, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier and serve (see Sauce, No. 61).

No. 889. Epigramme de Perdreaux aux champignons.

Proceed exactly as in the last, merely adding thirty heads of blanched mushrooms to the sauce and a little sugar.

No. 890. Turban des Filets de Perdreaux à la Périgord.

Fillet three young partridges, make likewise half a pound of forcemeat from the legs as directed (No. 123), from which make six quenelles with two tablespoons (No. 831); sauté your fillets as in the last, plain, then poach your quenelles, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, and dress the fillets in crown, alternately with the quenelles, put three parts of a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it a third, add four large French truffles chopped very fine, with a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

No. 891. Turban de Quenelles de Perdreaux à la Berri.

Make a pound of forcemeat from the flesh of one or two partridges as directed (No. 123), and with two tablespoons make twelve large quenelles, poach them in white stock (see quenelles de volaille, No. 831) and lay them on a clean cloth to drain a moment, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the quenelles in crown, then put a pint of the sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58) in a stewpan, with half the quantity of white stock, reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add a tablespoonful of whipped cream, sauce over, sprinkle a few pistachios chopped very fine upon the top of each quenelle and serve.

No. 892. Filets de Canetons Sauvage à l’essence.

Wild ducks are best after frosty weather, the middling-sized ones are the best for entrées.

Roast four young ones underdone well wrapped up in vegetables, when done cut the fillets out neatly, and dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, have prepared the following sauce: put a spoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a glass of port wine, the back-bones of two of the ducks and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, boil two minutes, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and ten spoonfuls of consommé, simmer a few minutes, take out the bones, skim, reduce it fast till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add a little cayenne pepper and lemon-juice, when hot sauce over and serve.

No. 893. Filets de Canetons Sauvage à la Syrienne.

Prepare six fillets from three wild ducks as in the last, have six croutons of fried bread (or scippets), chop the livers of the ducks up very fine, mix with a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a small pat of butter, spread some upon each of the croutons, thicker in the middle than at the sides; set them ten minutes in a warm oven and salamander, dress them alternately with the fillets upon a border of mashed potatoes in crown, sauce the same as in the last, with the addition of twenty mild stoned olives just before serving.

No. 894. Filets de Canetons Sauvage au jus d’orange.

Cook and fillet four wild ducks as in the last, dress upon your dish and put them into the hot closet to keep hot with a cover over them; chop up the legs and back very fine and put them in a stewpan with a glass of sherry and a bunch of parsley, boil five minutes, then add a pint of consommée, boil ten minutes, skim and pass through a cloth into another stewpan, reduce to half glaze, then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), a little sugar, and half the yellow rind of a large orange, cut in fine strips and blanch five minutes, boil altogether a few minutes, finish with a teaspoonful of juice from the orange, sauce over and serve.

No. 895. Filets de Canetons Sauvage au fumée de Gibier.

Cook and fillet four wild ducks as before, dress them in crown on your dish and serve with a sauce fumée de gibier over, made from the legs and bones of the ducks as described (No. 60).

No. 896. Salmi de Canetons Sauvage aux truffes.

Proceed exactly as for salmi de grouse (No. 876), only cutting up two wild ducks in neat pieces instead of the grouse, but the wild ducks require to be more underdone.

No. 897. Filets de Canetons Sauvage à la purée de Grouse.

Roast and fillet four wild ducks as before, dress them in crown, and serve with a sauce à la purée de grouse (No. 59) over.

Widgeons are rather smaller than the wild ducks, but are dressed exactly the same; care should be taken in roasting any kind of water-fowl that it should be rather underdone, and if there is a necessity for warming them in sauce when cut up for entrées, care should be taken that they do not boil in it, for it would give the sauce a greasy appearance, and cause the fillets to eat tough and altogether very unpalatable.

No. 898. Turban de Filets de Sarcelles à la Moderne.

Teal are much smaller than either of the two last, but of the same species, though more delicate and excellent for entrées.

Roast eight teal twenty minutes in vegetables, cut out the fillets, which must be underdone with the gravy in them, have ready half a pound of game forcemeat (No 123), when cold cover each of the fillets very thinly with it, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, set them in a very hot oven for ten minutes till the forcemeat is cooked, sauce over with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60) and serve.

No. 899. Turban de Sarcelles à la Toulouse.

Roast and fillet eight teal as in the last, dress them on a border of mashed potatoes, then put eight spoonfuls of game sauce (No. 60), eight of consommé, and eight of tomata sauce (No. 37) in a stewpan, boil them together a few minutes, add twenty pickled mushrooms, sauce over and serve.

No. 900. Sarcelles au jus d’orange.

Roast six teal as before, cut them in halves, chop off the pinions of the wings, beat them a little and dress in crown, sauce over with au jus d’orange (No. 17) and serve.

Teal may be dressed in any way as directed for the wild ducks.

No. 901. Sarcelles à la Batelière.

Bone four teal by cutting the skin through down the back, separating the skin on each side of it until you have cleared it, lay the bird open, take out the back-bone, and with a knife you will find no difficulty in taking out all the rest; half fill them with forcemeat (No. 120) and sew them up with packthread, then put them into a stewpan with three glasses of sherry, a pint of white stock, half a pound of lean uncooked ham, two onions, one head of celery, a bunch of parsley, a little carrot, turnip, two cloves, and a blade of mace; put the cover on the stewpan and place it in a moderate oven for an hour, try with a larding-needle, and if tender they are done; lay them on a cloth to drain, make three croutons of bread each in the shape of a cockscomb, but a great deal thicker and larger, put three of the teal at the bottom of the dish, and stand a crouton (nicely fried) between each to form six points, place the remaining teal upon the top, and have ready the following sauce: strain the stock the teal was cooked in through a cloth into another stewpan, skim off all the fat, add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little cream sauce over and serve.

No. 902. Sarcelles à la macédoine de légumes.

Roast four teal in vegetables, cut them in halves, dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a white sauce macédoine de légumes (No. 98) in the centre.

No. 903. Sarcelles à la purée de champignons.

Proceed as in the last, but serve with a purée of mushrooms (No. 54) in the centre.

No. 904. Filets de Bécasses à la Lucullus.

Roast six woodcocks underdone, take the fillets out carefully, have ready half a pound of very white forcemeat of chicken (No. 122), cover each fillet all over about the eighth of an inch in thickness, egg them over when done and place them in a buttered sauté-pan, cover them with white stock, and simmer ten minutes, drain them on a cloth and dress in crown upon a small border of toasted bread; you have previously pounded all the flesh from the legs with the trail in a mortar, pass through a sieve, and put it in a stewpan with ten spoonfuls of game sauce (No. 60) made from the bones, boil until thick, keeping it stirred, then take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir another minute over the fire to thicken, and dress in the middle of the dish as high as possible, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) and serve.

No. 905. Filets de Bécasses à la Talleyrand.

Roast four woodcocks, fillet them, cover each fillet with forcemeat as in the last, poach them the same, have eight croutons of bread the same size as the fillets, and the thickness of a five-shilling-piece, pound the trails from the woodcocks in a mortar, season them lightly, and mix them with the yolk of one egg, spread it upon the croutons (which you have previously fried), give them the shape of a dome, put them ten minutes in the oven, salamander a light colour, make a thin border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the fillets half way round, then the croutons, put a pint of game sauce (No. 60) in a stewpan with six spoonfuls of consommé, reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add six middling-sized truffles chopped very fine with a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

No. 906. Filets de Bécasses à l’Impérial.

Roast five woodcocks, fillet as usual, surround each fillet with the forcemeat, and poach as before, dress them on a small border of mashed potatoes, and place a fine dressed cockscomb warmed in a little stock between each, sauce over with a sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58) and serve.

No. 907. Turban de Bécasses aux champignons.

Roast five woodcocks, cut them in halves, and dress them in crown, breasts upwards, upon a border of mashed potatoes; put a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it, then add forty very fine blanched mushrooms, with two spoonfuls of thin liquor, boil two minutes, then add a little salt, sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and two pats of butter, take it off the fire, shake it round till the butter is melted, sauce over and serve.

No. 908. Salmi de Bécasses.

Roast three woodcocks underdone, and when cold cut them into neat pieces, that is, two wings, two legs, and the breasts; chop the trails from the interior very fine and spread them upon six croutons of fried bread in the shape of fillets, place them in the oven three minutes, and salamander lightly; make a game sauce with the bones as directed (No. 60), when you have reduced it to a good consistency, put in the pieces of woodcocks, cover the stewpan, stand it in the bain marie till they are quite hot, then build them up as high as possible on your dish, dress the croutons round, sauce over and serve; truffles or mushrooms may be added to the sauce.

No. 909. Salmi de Bécasses à la Joinville.

Roast two woodcocks underdone, cut them up and proceed exactly as in the last, make ten quenelles de gibier (No. 123), poach them, lay them on a cloth to drain, egg over with a paste-brush, and roll them in chopped ham and truffles, place them in a dish, which put in the hot closet with the cover over for half an hour, then put a border of mashed potatoes upon your dish, dress the quenelles in crown with the woodcocks in the centre and over, as elevated as possible, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier, dress the croutons round and serve.

No. 910. Entrée de Bécasses à la Comtesse.

Roast your woodcocks in vegetables, separate the breasts from the legs, take off the flesh from the legs and pound it in a mortar with the trails, make a purée as for the filets à la Lucullus, then have ready a croustade of bread two inches high, rather oval, and fluted round, not too large for the dish, make an incision round the top a quarter of an inch from the edge, fry a nice colour, scoop out the top, place it on your dish, pour in the purée; you have kept the breasts hot in a stewpan in the bain marie, dress them over the purée with the points to meet in the centre, place two fine dressed cockscombs warmed in the sauce between each breast, and a quenelle upon the top, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) and serve.

No. 911. Bécasses à la Périgord.

Roast three woodcocks nicely before a sharp fire, put a piece of toasted bread under them whilst roasting to catch the trails, when done cut the toast into three pieces, diamond shapes, place them in your dish and place the woodcocks upon them, their tails to meet in the centre of the dish, sauce over as for filets à la Talleyrand (No. 905) and serve.

No. 912. Bécasses à l’essence.

Roast three woodcocks as in the last, dish them the same, and serve with a sauce à l’essence made from some bones or remains of woodcock, as directed (No. 60).

No. 913. Bécasses à la Financière.

Proceed precisely as in the last, but adding ten blanched mushrooms, ten fine dressed cockscombs, ten small quenelles (No. 123) of game, and as many slices of truffles to the sauce.

No. 914. Bécasses à la purée.

Roast three woodcocks as before, having previously roasted one, with which make a purée as directed (No. 59), sauce round and serve.

915. Snipes or Bécassines.

Snipes may be dressed in any way as directed for the woodcocks, but being much smaller you cut them in halves instead of filleting them, dress round to form a crown, only you require more of them.

No. 916. Plovers.

Plovers, like other game, require to be kept a short time before they are cooked; they are dressed similar to woodcocks, although not quite so recherché; when well dressed they are very delicious.

No. 917. Filets de Pluviers à la Marie Antoinette.

Roast eight plovers well wrapped up in thin slices of bacon, and tied up in paper; when done leave them to get cold in the bacon, then cut out the fillets as for woodcocks, and stick the pilon of the leg at the point of each fillet; let a piece of the bacon remain over each fillet, egg and bread-crumb twice over, and fry them a nice colour in salad oil; chop up the legs, bones, and trimmings of the birds, and put them in a stewpan with a glass of sherry, an onion in slices, and a little raw ham minced; place it on the fire a couple of minutes, then add a pint and a half of good white stock; place it again on the fire, and let it simmer half an hour, skim, and pass it through a cloth into another stewpan, reduce to a thin glaze, then mix a little arrow-root with three spoonfuls of white stock and the juice of half a lemon, pour it into the sauce, keeping it stirred till boiling, dress the fillets in crown on a circle of mashed potatoes, sauce round, and serve very hot and crisp.

No. 918. Filets de Pluviers aux truffes.

Proceed with the fillets exactly as in the last, make ten croutons of bread, upon which put the trail, see woodcocks (No. 905), dress the fillets round alternately with the croutons, put a pint and a half of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), and a gill of consommé in a stewpan, reduce to half, then add six middling-sized truffles in slices, and a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

No. 919. Filets de Pluviers aux champignons.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only using mushrooms instead of truffles.

No. 920. Fillets de Pluviers à la Régence.

Roast three plovers in bacon as before, and when done have three larded lambs’ sweetbreads nicely cooked, dress them alternately on a border of mashed potatoes in a ring, put half a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, boil it a minute, then add twelve stoned French olives, season with a little sugar, sauce in the centre, glaze the sweetbreads, and serve.

No. 921. Pâté chaud des Pluviers.

Make a paste as directed for pâté chaud, see Flancs (No. 618), build up a crust with the hand or in a small round mould to match your dish, then fillet twelve plovers, season them with a little pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots, cut some thin slices of fat bacon, with which line the interior of your crust, which has stood a good hour after building to get firm, lay the fillets round, placing a thin slice of fat bacon between each; the pâté must not be more than three inches in height when filled; add four spoonfuls of game sauce, and a few raw mushrooms, cover with a thin sheet of the paste, and ornament the exterior to your fancy, forming a lid with a round piece of puff paste (No. 1132); bake it an hour and a half in a moderate oven, take off the lid and as much fat as possible from the top, add half a pint of game sauce (No. 60) quite hot, and serve either with or without the lid.

No. 922. Quails.

The climate of this country is far from being advantageous for these delicate birds, which migrate even from France at the end of the autumn; the quails in this country must be fed in confinement to fatten, before they are fit to be eaten, which destroys much of that beautiful flavour they possess in France, where they feed in their native vineyards.

No. 923. Cailles en macédoine de légumes aux feuilles de vignes.

Truss eight quails, fold each one up in a vine-leaf, and then in a thin slice of bacon, run a skewer through them sideways, which tie upon the spit; then have some vegetables of all kinds, cut up in thin slices, which moisten with a little oil, have then some sheets of paper, upon which lay the vegetables, lay the quails on the spit over them, breasts downwards, cover well with the vegetables, fold the paper round, and tie them up; roast from twenty-five to thirty minutes before a sharp fire; you have prepared a border of vegetables as for Chartreuse (No. 604), but not to stand more than two inches in height; fill it with stewed cabbage and boiled French beans, turn it out on your dish, and dress the quails upon it, their tails towards the centre and their breasts outside; make a pyramid of boiled green peas on the top, and serve a white jardinière sauce (No. 98) round.

No. 924. Cailles aux petits pois.

Proceed exactly as above with the quails, but make the stand entirely of green peas nicely boiled; have ready a pint of stewed peas (No. 1077) with which you have put the quails a few minutes, fill the centre with them, dress the quails round as above, and pour the remainder of the peas in the dish.

No. 925. Turban des Cailles à la Financière.

Roast eight quails in vegetables, but without the vine-leaf and bacon, make a border of forcemeat as for ris de veau à la Turque (No. 673), stand it in your dish, then make a ragout financière (No. 50), but using game sauce instead of brown sauce; put your quails five minutes in the sauce, then dress them round on the border of forcemeat; garniture in the centre, sauce over, and serve.

No. 926. Turban des Cailles aux concombres.

Roast seven quails as before, cut each one in halves lengthwise, have also fourteen pieces of cucumbers the same size, stewed as No. 103, dress them alternately with the halves of quails upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce à la purée de concombres (No. 105) in the centre.

No. 927. Turban de Cailles à la purée de truffes.

Proceed as above, using ten quails instead of seven, and serving with a purée de truffes (No. 53), omit the cucumbers.

No. 928. Quails for Vol-au-vents, or Pâté chaud.

Roast and cut them in halves if for vol-au-vents, put them in a white financière sauce (No. 50), but if for pâtés chauds, in a brown financière twenty minutes before serving.

No. 929. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux à la Parisienne.

Procure six large pigeons, fillet and form them into cotelettes (see cotelettes de perdreaux, No. 885), stuff with a little forcemeat of fowl, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry a light yellow colour in oil; fry also twelve croutons of bread the size and shape of the cotelettes, and dress them alternately upon a border of mashed potatoes, to form a crown; sauce with a purée de concombres (No. 105) made brown instead of white, and serve, glazing the cotelettes lightly.

No. 930. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux à la Financière.

Proceed as in the last, only serving with a ragout à la financière (No. 50) instead of the purée.

No. 931. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux aux pois verts.

Proceed as before, and serve with a pint of green peas, prepared as for cotelettes de mouton aux pois (No. 713). They may also be served with a sauce aux truffes (No. 51), Italienne (No. 30), jardinière (No. 100), or sauce piquante (No. 27).

No. 932. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux à la Suliman.

Prepare the cotelettes as usual, season them well with chopped parsley, do. eschalots, and a little pepper and salt; procure a pig’s caul, cut into twelve pieces, in each of which fold a cotelette, place them in a sauté-pan, and fry them in oil a nice colour, but rather underdone; dress on a border of plain boiled rice, which you have made hot and seasoned with a little salt and pepper, and moistened with a piece of butter; serve very hot with a sauce à l’Indienne (No. 45) in the centre.

No. 933. Turban of Larks à la Parisienne.

Larks when in good order and fat are excellent for entrées. Bone eighteen fine ones with a penknife, lay a little forcemeat of game (No. 123), in the interior of each, with a few fillets of truffles, sew them with packthread, giving them their first shape as near as possible; cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, then lay in the larks, which again cover with sheets of fat bacon; add a few vegetables of each sort in slices, with a bunch of parsley, two glasses of Madeira wine, and half a pint of consommé; cover the stewpan, and place it in a moderate oven; when the birds feel tender they are done; take them out, and lay them on a dish; lay another dish over, and press them lightly till cold; pass the stock they were cooked in through a cloth into a stewpan, and skim off all the fat; use it with the bones of the larks to make a sauce (No. 60); when the sauce is of a proper consistence, add twenty small quenelles (No. 120), put it in the bain-marie to keep hot, pull all the packthread from the larks, and put them in a stewpan with a little consommé, warm them gently, have ready a border of forcemeat as for turban de cailles (No. 925), dress the larks in crown upon it, garniture in the centre, sauce over, and serve.

No. 934. Turban of Larks aux fines herbes.

Proceed with the larks as in the last, dress them on a border of forcemeat, and make the sauce the same; put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan, with half a one of oil, fry a light yellow colour, keeping them stirred; add one of parsley and two of chopped mushrooms, with which mix a quarter of one of flour, and twelve of the sauce; stir it over the fire twenty minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg, take it off the fire, and stir in the yolk of an egg very quickly; pour all over the larks, let them get cold, egg and bread-crumb over, and place them twenty minutes in a moderate oven, salamander a nice colour and sauce as in the last, omitting the quenelles, and pouring round instead of over; serve very hot.

No. 935. Turban of Larks aux quenelles.

Prepare eight larks as for à la Parisienne; have also prepared eight quenelles de gibier (No. 123) of the same size as the larks, dress them alternately upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce au fumée de gibier (No. 60) over.

No. 936. Pâté Chaud de Mauviettes.

Prepare a crust as for the pâté chaud de pluviers, bone twenty-four larks, stuff them with forcemeat, but do not sew them, fold a slice of fat bacon round each, fill your pâté, and proceed exactly as in No. 623.

No. 937. Pâté Chaud de Mauviettes gratiné.

Proceed as above, but when you have filled the pâté have half a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), with which mix some chopped eschalots, do. parsley, and do. mushrooms; cover all over the larks, and again cover that with slices of fat bacon; bake an hour and a half; when done take off the lid, and the fat bacon, salamander the forcemeat a nice brown, and serve with some clear strong consommé (in which you have boiled the bones of the larks reduced to a demi-glaze), poured over.

No. 938. Vol-au-vent de Mauviettes.

Bone twelve or eighteen larks according to the size of your vol-au-vent, which you have previously made (see No. 1137), stuff them lightly, place a leg-bone in the breast of each, and form them in the shape of a pear; place them in a stewpan covered with slices of fat bacon, add a glass of sherry, with a little stock and a few vegetables, stew them gently one hour, then in another stewpan have a pint of sauce velouté de gibier made as directed (No. 58) from the bones of the larks; take the larks out of the braise, drain them on a cloth, then put them into the sauce, with ten blanched mushrooms; when hot fill the vol-au-vent, and serve directly.

OF THE ROASTS FOR SECOND COURSE.

In London the poultry and game are sent in so nicely prepared for cooking that any remark upon the method of killing, plucking, and drawing them would appear almost unnecessary, but remembering the manner that I have seen poultry and game mutilated in some parts of the country, I have been induced to give the following simple directions.

The best way of killing poultry is to take the bird by the neck, placing the thumb of the right hand just at the back of the head, closing the head in your hand, your left hand holding the bird, then press your thumb down hard and pull the head and neck contrariwise, the neck will break instantaneously, and the bird will be quite dead in a few seconds, when hang it a short time by the legs for the blood to flow into the head, which renders the flesh much whiter. In France we usually kill them by cutting the throat close to the head; both methods are good with regard to the whiteness of the flesh, but I prefer the English method, not being so barbarous.

To pluck either game or poultry have the bird upon a board with its head towards you, and pull the feathers away from you, which is the direction they lay in; many persons pull out the feathers in a contrary direction, by which means they are likely to tear the skin to pieces, which would very much disfigure the bird for the table.

To draw poultry after it is well plucked, cut a long incision at the back of the neck, cut the neck bone off close to the body of the bird, but leave the skin a good length over, then take out the thin skin from under the outer with the crop, cut an incision under the tail just large enough for the gizzard to pass through, no larger, then put your finger into the bird at the breast and detach all the intestines, squeeze the body of the bird and force out the whole from the incision at the tail; it is then ready for trussing, the method of doing which will be given in the various receipts throughout this series. The above method of drawing poultry is equally applicable to game.

To make a gravy for roasts well butter the bottom of a convenient-sized stewpan, upon which lay three onions in thick slices, over which lay a few slices of lean bacon and three pounds of lean beef; place it over a good fire and add two cloves and six peppercorns, with a few sprigs of parsley; when the onions begin to brown stir the meat round with a wooden spoon, keeping the onions still at the bottom, stir occasionally until the onions are well browned but not burnt, then fill up with two quarts of water and half an ounce of salt; when boiling place it at the corner of the fire, skim and let it simmer an hour, skim again, pass it through a cloth into a basin and use when required.

The simplicity of roasting is so generally known by all classes of cooks that but very little attention is often paid to it; the simplicity of the arrangement for roasting being such as with many to leave it to attend to itself; but I shall here in a very few words show my readers the facility of roasting well and with little trouble, which I consider of the greatest importance, especially in a dinner-party where, after the entrées have been well degusted, nothing refreshes the palate or disposes it better for the second course than a fillet or cut from the fillet of a well-roasted capon, chicken, or some description of game, but if badly roasted it would lose its effect.

In roasting much depends upon the fire which requires to be solid and to throw out a great heat, as it is always easy to keep anything a good distance from it, but a bad fire would be the destruction of anything placed before it, for if you had a couple of good fowls or a brace of birds, and were to put one down before a slow fire and the other before a brisk, you would be so astonished at the difference in flavour that did you not know different you would declare that one was of an inferior quality; I am also very much against the improper manner of basting, which would give any birds or poultry the appearance of having been first roasted and afterwards stewed; I have never during the last six years suffered any bird to be basted in my kitchen with the exception of rubbing a piece of butter over the breast of poultry or game as soon as the skin becomes set; any kind of game or poultry is done when you perceive a great smoke arising from it, and if not taken up immediately you lose the flavour and the bird its appearance, for instead of going to table nice and plump it will present a mean and shrivelled object, loudly bespeaking the cook’s inattention, unless it has been kept in a screen or hot closet, by the party having kept the dinner waiting.

By following the above simple method great benefit will be derived in this simple branch of the art, but the most universally useful, for I think we may say without hesitation that near two thirds of our animal and volatile food is daily roasted, which has made me so desirous of impressing the necessity of attention, which is all that is required to roast well.

No. 939. Roast Turkey au Cresson.

For second course a turkey should be very small and well trussed, the breast thrown out, the sinews of the legs cut and the feet chopped off, run a skewer through the pinion of the right wing, passing it beneath the thigh-bones and through the pinion of the left wing, run your spit through the body, passing it between the skewer and the back-bone, and tie the legs upon a rest (made by folding a thick piece of carrot about two inches long and one broad in buttered paper) upon the spit to keep the legs upon a level with the thighs; have a good clear fire, put down the turkey at a short distance from it, five minutes after it is down rub it over the breast a minute with a piece of butter which being hard and cold you have pressed into a large wooden spoon, (made with a very long handle, by which means you can rub it over the bird whilst turning without approaching too near the fire,) about a quarter of a pound would be sufficient for six or eight; then place it a little further back, (according to the heat and size of your fire,) the butter will form a froth over it; if the skin should blister you must put it still further from the fire, keep it of a nice gold colour, and when done serve with gravy in the dish and garnish with nice fresh water-cresses.

A turkey weighing five pounds will require about three quarters of an hour to roast, and so on in proportion, but one of that size is quite large enough for a roast second course; but if before a small fire an hour and a quarter, or if a larger turkey an hour and twenty minutes.

No. 940. Turkey Barded.

Truss a turkey as described in the last, have a square piece of fat bacon the eighth of an inch in thickness and large enough to cover the breast, upon which tie it with packthread; roast and serve as in the last, taking away the packthread but leaving the bacon; it will require a little longer to roast as the bacon prevents the fillets from being done so soon.

No. 941. Turkey Larded.

Lard the breast of a young turkey as you would a noix de veau (No. 565), (only cut the bacon finer), to facilitate the larding, dip the breast in a stewpan of boiling water, or pass it a minute over the flame of a charcoal fire to set the skin to the flesh, place it down to roast but do not butter it over the larded part; serve with gravy and water-cresses in a dish as before.

No. 942. Dindonneau truffé à la Périgord.

This dish is sometimes served as a roast in the second course, but very seldom in this country. Proceed exactly as for the remove (No. 524), but choose a very small turkey, for what would look noble in the first course would appear vulgar in the second.

No. 943. Dindonneau farci.

Have a young turkey, but do not let its weight exceed six pounds, have ready one pound of veal forcemeat with which mix six truffles in small dice and half a pound of fat livers previously blanched, season well, then stuff the breast and interior of the turkey, fasten the skin over to the backbone, (but not too tight,) with a packing-needle and string, and roast in vegetables as for the removes; about a quarter of an hour before it is finished take the vegetables from it, and place it closer to the fire to take a nice gold colour; serve with a little gravy in the dish. It will require one hour to roast.

No. 944. Roast Turkey à l’Anglaise.

Have a young turkey, stuff the breast with some veal stuffing (No. 127), roast it plain as directed, and serve with a little gravy and water-cresses; a few small country sausages broiled very crisp should be handed round the table.

No. 945. Turkey Poults.

Turkey poults, so called from being used when about the size of a large poulet, are trussed with the legs turned at the knuckle and the feet pressing upon the thighs, the neck is skinned and the head fixed under the wing; roast them the same as directed for turkeys, about twenty-five minutes or half an hour, according to their size, and in the same modes, but they are usually served, one larded and the other barded, with gravy and water-cresses in the dish.

No. 946. Chapon rôti au cresson.

Roast and serve a capon in any of the ways directed for turkeys, roast of a nice gold colour and serve with water-cresses round; a capon weighing five pounds requires about three quarters of an hour to roast. Poularde au cresson exactly as above.

No. 947. Poularde à la Demidoff.

Put a pint and a half of sauce béchamel (No. 7) in a stewpan, place it over the fire and reduce until becoming thick, keeping it stirred, then add twenty dressed cockscombs and twelve small French truffles, season with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, take it off the fire and stir in two yolks of eggs very quickly, stir it another minute over the fire to set, and put it away to get cold, then have a nice poularde trussed with the legs turned inside, cutting off the feet, which stick into the apertures where you turned in the legs, fix them in with string and a packing-needle, as also the legs and wings, using no skewers, and giving the poularde a handsome appearance, take out the breast-bone, stuff the poularde with the above preparation, roast it in vegetables as for the removes; when nearly done take away the vegetables and give it a nice colour; have ready the following sauce: put a pint and a half of white veal stock in a stewpan, with six spoonfuls of bechamel sauce, and reduce it to a white demi-glace, then add a little sugar and four spoonfuls of good cream; sauce round and serve.

No. 948. Poularde rôti à la Stäel.

Roast a nice poularde in vegetables as above, when nearly done take away the vegetables, let it turn a few minutes before the fire, then rub it all over with butter, have some bread-crumbs and flour mixed together in a flour-box, which shake over the poularde by degrees whilst roasting, it will form a white crust over, take it up and serve with a demi-glace de volaille (No. 6) under.

No. 949. Poulet rôti.

For a dinner of four entrées you would require two fowls, but not too large, truss and roast them as directed for a turkey, judging the time required according to their size, serve with gravy and watercresses; they may be larded, barded, or served in any way mentioned in the foregoing receipts; a fowl weighing two pounds and a half would require half an hour roasting, or three quarters of an hour if larger.

No. 950. Spring Chickens.

Are served like fowls, generally plain roasted, but they may be larded or dressed à la Stäel (No. 948) as the poularde. Be particular in tying the legs upon paper to the spit, as directed for the turkey, as it so improves their appearance when roasted. About twenty-five minutes would be sufficient to roast them.

No. 951. Spring Chickens à la Forrester.

Truss them as directed for poularde (No. 947), but roast them quite plain, not very brown; have two good handfuls of very fresh water-cresses, pick off all the stalks, and one of small salad mixed well together, and completely cover the chickens with it, serve a little gravy on the dish with some separate, and a boat of bread sauce.

No. 952. Geese.

A green goose roasted plain and served with a little gravy is generally sent up for second courses; but if the larger ones are used they must be stuffed with sage and onions, but very few would choose such a thing for a roast second course, whilst green geese in their season are great favourites, truss them by cutting off the leg at the knuckle, and the wing at the first pinion, fixing them at the side with skewers to throw the breast up; a full-grown goose will take one hour to roast, but a green one not more than half an hour.

No. 953. Ducklings.

Make a very favourite roast in the London season, they must have good fillets, white and plump, and require to be a little more underdone than any other description of poultry; if too much done the fat catches and gives a rank flavour to the flesh, besides causing the fillets to eat dry, they are usually served plain roasted for a second course, but I have served them differently upon some occasions for the sake of variety, but it must be with a very thin sauce and one that invigorates the palate, although they never can be better than when served plain roasted, I shall here give one or two deviations; truss them by twisting the legs at the knuckles and resting the feet upon the thighs, cut the wing off at the first pinion, and run a skewer through the bird, fixing the pinion and legs with it, place them upon a spit and roast twenty minutes.

No. 954. Canetons au vin de Madère.

Roast them plain, but just before they are done shake a little potato-flour over them mixed with a little common flour, dress them on your dish, and have ready the following sauce: put three spoonfuls of chopped olives and one of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with two glasses of Madeira wine, reduce it a minute, then add half a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) with a little cayenne, sugar, and six spoonfuls of consommé, reduce it till it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon, then add the juice of half a lemon, sauce under and serve.

No. 955. Canetons au jus d’orange.

Roast two ducklings plain, and serve with a sauce au jus d’orange (No. 17) over.

No. 956. Canetons au jus d’eschalotte.

Roast as in the last and serve with a sauce au jus d’eschalotte (No. 16) under.

No. 957. Guinea Fowls.

These birds must be very young, for being naturally very dry, they are not eatable if more than twelve months old; they are generally larded or barded, and served plain roasted, rather well-done, they are trussed like the common fowls, and require nearly three quarters of an hour to roast.

No. 958. Pea Fowls.

These magnificent birds make a noble roast, and when young are very excellent, they are larded, plain roasted, and served with the tail stuck into them, which you have preserved, the head with its feathers being left folded up in paper and tucked under the wing; roast about an hour and a half, take the paper from the head and neck, dress it upon your dish with water-cresses and a border of tulips or roses round, and the gravy separate in a boat.

In large families where these volatile demi-gods are plentiful, I would recommend them to have one of the finest peacock’s tails mounted in silver, and made to easily fix upon the dish, by means of a slide, in which the fowl is served, it would look splendid upon table, and remind us of the ancient Roman banquets, where Lucullus, Tiberius, and Horace used to feast and sing their love.

No. 959. Pigeons

Are trussed as a fowl to roast, and served plain roasted, with a little gravy in the dish, or roasted with a vine-leaf upon the breast, over which you have tied a square piece of bacon, they will take a quarter of an hour to roast, but serve them with the bacon and leaf over; my new way of cooking them is to cut up a head or two of celery into very thin layers, lay some on the breast of each, and tie pieces of fat bacon over, roast and serve with a little gravy as usual; this method has been much approved of.

No. 960. Quails.

Eight quails are sufficient for a dish, they should be killed if possible forty-eight hours before dressing, draw and truss them by cutting off the wings at the first pinion, leaving the feet, and fixing the pinion of the wing and legs with a very small skewer; cover the breasts with vine-leaves, over which tie a thin square slice of fat bacon, then pass a long skewer through the pinions and thighs of each, tie them on a spit and roast them nearly twelve minutes at a convenient distance from a sharp fire of a nice gold colour, serve with a little gravy in the dish.

No. 961. Cailles à l’Eloise.

Prepare eight quails with the bacon and vine-leaves as before, then have a pig’s caul, cut it into eight square pieces and fold a quail in each, roast them a minute longer than in the last, and serve with a very thin sauce béchamel (No. 7) which you have finished with a spoonful of whipped cream under.

No. 962. Pheasants

For second course are usually served plain, you require two of them for a dish in a four entrée dinner, truss them the same as a fowl, leaving the head and neck on, which skin, and fix round at the side with the skewer you have fixed the wing and legs with; a middling-sized one will take about half an hour before a brisk fire, they are also good larded, or one larded and the other barded.

No. 963. Faisans à la Galitzine.

Roast a couple of pheasants, and when done cut the breasts in slices without detaching them; put six spoonfuls of consommé of game in a stewpan, with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, boil two minutes, then add two pats of butter, a little cayenne pepper, and the juice of half a lemon, pour over and serve.

No. 964. Grouse

Are generally served plain roasted upon a piece of toast, with gravy separate in a boat; they may also be served à la Rob Roy, as directed for the Remove (No. 548), but two birds will be sufficient for a roast, truss them as you would a fowl to roast.

No. 965. Grouse à la Bonny Lassie.

Truss them rather roughly, roast them before a brisk fire rather underdone, if young a quarter of an hour will be sufficient, and serve them upon toast, crisp and well-buttered, made from brown bread, and serve with a rather thick and boiled melted butter (No. 71) over.

Grouse may likewise be served for a change with a thin sauce à l’essence de gibier, with which you may add a few truffles or mushrooms, but this will of course much depend upon the first course, or, at least, of what the first course consists, although, as I have before stated, they are better plain roasted; yet in some parts of the country where they are plentiful a change may be desired.

Ptarmigans

Are Swedish birds, but many are found in Scotland, much of the same species as grouse, and are very plentiful about the month of February; they are dressed precisely in the same way as the grouse. A curious anecdote of the celebrated Charles the Twelfth, relating to what he used to call a fête, or repas champêtre, gave me the idea of inventing the following roast, and calling it

Ptarmigan à la Charles the Twelfth.

Kill them by accident, pluck them immediately, draw them, and save the feathers and interior, put three guns in bivouac, and hang the ptarmigans on one side with string or green twigs, light a wood fire beneath, upon which put the feathers and interior, let remain, turning them the whole time, till done, and serve them au naturel, with a good bit of salt sprinkled over them; many people would object to this method, but the flavour is excellent to a scientific palate, and more so to a hungry stomach.

The anecdote is as follows: crossing a mountain in Sweden with a small part of his army, the King was unexpectedly attacked by a numerous body of Russians, and a skirmish took place, but the King was as usual victorious; having lost several of his braves, a search was made for them in the heather, where they found one hundred and fifty-one killed and thirty wounded, being fifteen of the enemy, two Swedish officers, one lieutenant, seven privates, one hundred and thirty ptarmigans, and twenty-five black cocks, all killed by accident, the birds were, by command of his Majesty, plucked and roasted, to the no small satisfaction of his troops, who were short of provisions at the time; so great was the treat that they hoped his Majesty would often repeat the fête champêtre.

No. 966. Black Cocks and Grey Hens.

These birds, like pheasants, must be well kept; they are excellent eating, and are usually served plain roasted, trussed like grouse, but may be served à la Stockholm as follows: lard one side of the breast, and cover the other side with vine-leaves and fat bacon, which tie on, roast from half to three quarters of an hour according to the size, and serve with toast under, and gravy in the dish.

No. 967. Partridges

Make a very nice roast, truss them in the same manner as directed for grouse, obtain them young if possible, the old ones although not the best for stewing eat much better dressed that way; four will be sufficient for a roast, put them upon the spit, and when the first course goes to table place them before a sharp fire fifteen minutes, or according to the size, and serve with a gill of clear gravy upon the dish and bread sauce in a boat; you may also lard or bard them with fat bacon, or lard two and bard two, allowing them a little longer to roast, it will give them a very nice appearance.

No. 968. Dun Birds

Are very seldom sent to table, but plain roasted is the usual way, and a little or no improvement can be made; serve them in a dish with gravy and a lemon separate, not too much underdone.

No. 969. Wild Ducks and Pintails.

Must not be too old, they require keeping two or three days or longer before they are dressed; they are trussed by twisting each leg at the knuckle, and resting the claws on each side of the breast, fixing them with a skewer run through the thighs and pinion of the wings (No. 953), rub the liver over the breasts, and roast them from fifteen to twenty minutes rather brown, serve three for a roast, as the breast is the only part eatable, a little gravy on the dish and lemons separate.

No. 970. Wild Ducks à la Chasseur.

Truss them as before, rub the liver over, and roast underdone, cut the breast in slices without detaching them, catch the gravy that escapes in a sauté-pan, add a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, place it on the fire, and when hot add four pats of butter, half a glass of port wine, a little mignonette, pepper, and the juice of half a lemon, shake altogether over the fire, and when the butter is melted sauce over and serve. Although I have directed that they should be roasted underdone they must have no appearance of rawness.

No. 971. Widgeons

Require but very little keeping before they are dressed, if well roasted they are nearly equal to the wild duck, and are served the same; it requires rather more than a quarter of an hour to roast them to perfection.

No. 972. Teal

Make a beautiful roast as well as entrée, and when in good order are very delicious, after a frost they are generally very fat; truss them with care, leaving the breast the same as ducklings, six will be sufficient for a dish, keep them a very light brown colour and rather crisp, serve with a little gravy and water-cresses, if approved of, serve lemon separate; these birds being tender are easily cut in halves by the carver, to one half of which he can assist each guest; they will require about eight minutes roasting.

No. 973. Teal au jus d’orange.

Roast as above, and serve with a sauce au jus d’orange (No. 17) over them, or they may be served with a sauce au jus de bigarade (No. 18), or a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61).

No. 974. Plovers

Are good when well kept, and excellent as a roast, truss, but do not draw them, and put six on a skewer, set some toast underneath to catch the trail which may escape from them whilst roasting, about ten minutes is sufficient; cut the toast in diamond shapes, place them in your dish with the plovers over, and gravy separate in a boat, they may also be served barded with the vine-leaf as for pigeons or quails, but the bacon must be very thin, and when roasted quite crisp, black plovers are dressed in the same way, but the golden ones are the most delicate.

No. 975. Of the Woodcock.

These birds are one of the greatest luxuries, they must not be too fresh or too stale when dressed; they are fit for cooking when they look black between the legs and the feathers become rather loose; pluck and truss them with the legs twisted at the knuckles and the feet pressing upon the thighs; bring the pinion of the wing to the thigh, you have previously skinned the head and neck, bring the beak round under the wing, which pass through the pinions of the wings and thighs, place about four upon a skewer, tie them upon a spit and roast them from ten to fifteen minutes before a sharp fire with a piece of toasted bread beneath to catch the trail that falls from them; when done cut the toast in diamond shapes, each piece large enough to stand a bird upon, dress them slantwise on your dish with gravy sufficient to lightly moisten the toast, and some separate in a boat; they may also be barded with a piece of bacon tied over the breast not too thick, but they will require rather longer to roast. The beak may be made to form the skewer.

No. 976. Woodcocks à la Stäel.

Truss as before, put them down to roast, when down two minutes rub butter over, and shake flour gently but continually over them till done, it will give them quite a new appearance, and are by many preferred to plain roasted; serve them on a toast as before.

No. 977. Woodcocks à la fumée de Gibier.

Roast as before and serve with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60), which you have finished with a pat of butter. Although I recommend that this delicate bird should be served plain roasted, yet it may be served with advantage as above directed.

No. 978. Woodcocks à la Piedmontaise.

Roast as before then cut four large truffles in slices, fry them a few minutes in oil, then pour off the oil, add ten tablespoonfuls of sauce fumée de gibier and a little sugar, boil altogether two minutes, dress the birds on toast, sauce over and serve.

No. 979. Larks

Are very delicious little birds, about twelve or fifteen are sufficient for a dish; they are usually roasted plain, or with a thin slice of fat bacon tied over them, and served with a little gravy in the dish and crumbs of fried bread round; they require about eight minutes to roast them well.

No. 980. Snipes

Are somewhat similar to woodcocks, and dressed exactly the same, but you require eight or ten for a dish; they do not require more than ten minutes roasting.

No. 981. Hares.

One is sufficient for a roast, skin and truss it nicely, stuff the belly with a good veal stuffing, sew it up, then put it on the spit, rub butter over the back and shake flour over it, roast it about forty minutes before a sharp fire, but that depends upon the size of course; serve them with plain gravy in the dish and currant jelly separate. They are also served with a sauce poivrade (No. 32), or sauce au jus d’groseilles (No. 36), they may also be larded.

No. 982. Leverets

Are plain roasted and do not require stuffing, nor so long roasting being smaller; they are usually served with plain gravy, but may be served with either of the sauces mentioned in the last; you require two for a roast. They will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes roasting.

No. 983. Rabbits.

You require two for a roast; they may be stuffed with a good veal stuffing or forcemeat of veal, plain roasted, and served with a little gravy on the dish. Wild rabbits are dressed precisely the same; they may be stuffed with a forcemeat of game instead of veal, both require butter and flour rubbed over them, and will take from twenty to twenty-five minutes roasting.

SAVOURY DISHES FOR SECOND COURSE.

These dishes are divided into three classes, and in England all belong to the second course, but in France they are very frequently served in the first with a dinner of four or six entrées, that is, one or two of them, and are very commendable in the summer months; for breakfasts, luncheons, or suppers, they are invaluable. The large pieces, such as pâtés of game, galantine of turkey, poulardes, boars’ heads, &c., are in smaller dinners placed at the bottom of the table to face the roasts, but in a dinner of six or ten entrées they are served as flancs. All others, such as small galantine of game à la volière, pâtés, chaud froids, salads, mayonnaise, &c., by making them smaller may be served as savoury entremets, in a corner dish.

THE BOAR’S HEAD.

Has in all times ornamented the tables and even the walls of ancient epicures;--a princely dish is a boar’s head, its ferocious appearance giving it such noble dignity when brought to table that it has not only been recognized as one of the first and most recherché dishes of antiquity, but has been immortalized by some of the oldest masters; never has an antique banquet been represented without the introduction of either a black or white servant in the act of bringing or placing a boar’s head upon the table of a wealthy amphytrion. Sneiders, Weenix, and Rubens, have often traced it upon their immortal canvasses, which were eagerly bought by the greatest epicureans to embellish their banqueting halls, and to show their children, from generation to generation, how their great forefathers used to live.

No. 984. Of the Boar’s Head à l’Antique.

Procure a head with as much of the neck attached to it as possible, singe it well, holding it over a charcoal fire, and keeping it moved, then wipe it with a cloth, scrape well with a knife without scratching the skin, and place it on a cloth upon its skull, open it with your knife from one end to the other, and bone it very carefully without piercing the skin, leaving no flesh whatever upon the bones, bone the two necks of the boar, which cut into long fillets two inches square, place the head in a salting-tub, over which put ten pounds of salt, one of brown sugar, ten bay-leaves, half an ounce of peppercorns, a quarter ditto of cloves, six blades of mace, eight minced onions, twenty sprigs of thyme, ten ditto of winter savoury, and two sliced carrots; mix all well together and leave it eight or ten days, (rubbing the head every other day,) until well salted, then take it out, dry it well upon a cloth, lay the head straight before you, skin side downwards, have ready ten pounds of forcemeat (No. 120,) (but using the flesh of the wild boar instead of veal,[9]) with which cover the interior of the head an inch in thickness at the thinnest parts, roll the fillets cut from the neck in pieces of the rind, (both salted with the head and dried upon a cloth,) place a layer of them lengthwise in the head, with a long piece of fat bacon half an inch square between each, sprinkle a little chopped eschalots, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over, and place here and there about a pound of the best preserved truffles, with one of very green pistachios blanched and skinned, and continue filling with forcemeat and the other ingredients until you have used the whole, finishing by covering forcemeat over; join the two cheeks together with the above in the interior, sew it up with packthread giving it the shape of the head as much as possible and fold it in one or two large thin cloths leaving the ears out and upright; braise as follows: put half a pound of butter in a large braising-pan or stock-pot, over which put fifteen pounds of trimmings of pork or knuckles of veal, eight onions, two carrots, four turnips, eight bay-leaves, a tablespoonful of peppercorns, twelve cloves, ten sprigs of thyme, ten of marjoram, four blades of mace, a bottle of bucellas wine, and four calves’ feet, place it upon a sharp fire stirring it occasionally until the bottom is covered with a clearish glaze, then add six gallons of water and a pound of salt, when boiling draw it to the corner of the stove, skim, and put in the head the ears uppermost and let simmer seven or eight hours, perhaps more, according to the size and age of the boar, but the better plan would be to try it with a trussing-needle; if tender it is done; skim the stock, in which leave the head until half cold, when take it out, partly undo the cloths, and tie it again tighter if possible, and press it in a cover or upon a baking sheet with three flat pieces of wood, one at each side with a weight against them, and one upon the top between the ears, on which place a fourteen pounds weight, let it remain all night until quite cold, when take it out of the cloths, detach the thread it was sewn up with, cut a piece an inch in thickness from behind the ears, (from which part it must be carved in as thin slices as possible,) it will have a marbled appearance, trim the head a little, setting the ears in a proper position, glaze it with a brownish glaze, form the eyes with a little lard and round pieces of truffles, and the tusks with pâté d’office (No. 1137) baking them, have some very fresh tulips and roses, which stick tastefully in the ears and some around, but leaving space to carve, garnish boldly with croutons aspic made from the stock clarified as directed (No. 1360).

A black hog’s head may be dressed exactly the same with the greatest success; pig’s heads also, but more simplified, proceeding as for galantine (No. 998), but having the meat pickled.

A plain pickled boar’s head is also very much thought of, and is a noble dish: singe the head as before, but leaving a few bristles round the eyes and ears, tie it up in a cloth, and braise as before until quite tender. It must not be boned.

The head of the young boar or marcassin is very delicate dressed in either method, so likewise are the legs, necks, shoulders and saddles, pickled and roasted, or braised and served with a poivrade or any other highly-seasoned sauce, cotelettes may also be cut from the necks.

The following is the German method of making a sauce to be eaten with boar’s head: cut the rind (free from pith) of two Seville oranges into very thin strips half an inch in length, which blanch in boiling water, drain them upon a sieve and put them into a basin, with a spoonful of mixed English mustard, four of currant jelly, a little pepper, salt, (mix well together,) and half a pint of good port wine.

No. 985. Ribs of Beef à la George the Fourth.

Beef, as for entrées, offers but very little variation for second course dishes, the ribs, fillets, and tongue being the only parts to be recommended; and even these are more fit for luncheons or suppers.

Take a piece of ribs of beef with five bones, well covered, but not too fat nor too large, bone it and lard the thick part with long pieces of fat bacon and lean ham or tongue, well seasoned with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley, then lay the beef on a dish, with a little pepper, salt, fifty peppercorns, six blades of mace, ten eschalots in slices, half a pint of Madeira, and a little thyme and bay-leaves, let remain thus five days in winter, and but three in summer, turn and rub it every day; when ready to dress clear away the ingredients, roll and tie it up, then put two pounds of lean ham cut in dice in a large stewpan, with two ounces of butter and six large Portugal onions, pass gently over a slow fire, keeping stirred, put in the beef, let it braise gently until becoming a good colour, add water sufficient to reach half way up the beef, with half a pint of Madeira, two calves’ feet, a good bunch of parsley, and twenty pieces of carrots, turned the size and shape of young carrots, let it remain over a slow fire and place some live charcoal upon the lid, let stew gently four or five hours, or until tender, which try with a trussing-needle, but take out the carrots and onions as soon as done; when done take out the feet and skim off all the fat, leave it in the stock till three parts cold, then take it up, place it in a deep dish-cover, take off the string, and strain the stock through a sieve over it, then lay another dish upon the beef, upon which place a twenty-eight pounds weight, and leave it till quite cold, warm the stock and pass it through a napkin, season a little more if required, and place it in a mould upon ice, dress the beef on a dish, glaze it nicely, dress the onions at each end and the carrots in pyramid at each side, cut the stock when firm in croutons, with which garnish the beef tastefully and serve; should the stock be thick clarify it as directed for consommé (No. 134); it is not, however, required to be very clear. To carve it must be cut in slices crosswise.

No. 986. Ribs of Beef à la Bolingbroke.

Proceed with the beef just as in the last, but put a roll of veal stuffing (No. 127) in the centre, the carrots and onions only being required for flavour are cut in small slices; press your beef as in the last, but thicken the stock with a little roux to form a thin brown sauce, with which make a good sauce piquante (No. 27), which flavour slightly with a little scraped garlic, place the beef in your dish, and the sauce upon ice, when nearly cold and ready to set pour it over, sprinkling the top with grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed some chopped gherkins, it is then ready to serve.

No. 987. Filet de Bœuf froid à la Bohémienne.

Prepare and lard a fillet of beef as directed for the Removes (No. 417), then put it in a basin in which you have put the following marinade: four onions in slices, one carrot, a head of celery, ten sprigs of thyme, eight bay-leaves, two cloves of garlic, and a little parsley, which pass in half a pound of butter in a stewpan over a sharp fire five minutes, then add one quart of vinegar, one of water, two ounces of salt, and half a pound of brown sugar, with twenty peppercorns, ten cloves, and two blades of mace, boil half an hour, but do not put in the fillet till the marinade is cold, let remain a week, and when wanted put it in a braising-pan with one quart of the marinade and two of veal stock or consommé (No. 134), place it over a slow fire, and stew gently for two or three hours, depending upon the size, take it out and place it in a dish to cool, with a little stock over it, skim the remainder and pass it through a napkin into a stewpan, place it upon the fire, reduce it to half, skim it well, add a little clarified isinglass (No. 1372) sufficient to set it as a delicate aspic, six spoonfuls of tomata sauce, and a little red currant jelly; having trimmed and dished the fillet, sauce over, when quite cold garnish with a border of plovers’ eggs, and decorate three silver atelettes, by placing a fine dressed cockscomb at the top, a fine truffle beneath, and a plover’s egg, ornamented with truffles at the bottom, stick them in the fillet, one slanting at each end, and the other upright in the centre, it is then ready to serve.

No. 988. Filets de Bœuf farcis à la Dr. Johnson.

Trim a nice small fillet about fifteen inches long, and cut off the thickest part of the thin end, then with a long knife cut a deep incision down the thin side, lengthwise, which fill with a pound of veal forcemeat (No. 120), with which you have mixed some ox-tongue, truffles, and hard-boiled whites of eggs, cut into good-sized fillets, season with a little chopped eschalots, then cover the fillet with leaves of celery as large as you can get them, over which also lay slices of cooked ham, and envelope the whole in thin slices of fat bacon, tie it up with string, then place it in a braising-pan with two calves’ feet, and half cover it with good stock, place it on a slow fire and stew it two hours and a half, or until tender, which try with a trussing-needle, take it up and leave it on a dish to get cold; then pass the stock through a sieve into a stewpan, and place it upon the ice to set, when firm take off all the fat, wash the top with hot water to take off all the grease, then clarify it as directed for aspic (No. 1360), and pass it through a napkin, trim the fillet at each end lightly, leaving the top untouched, when quite cold have ready a long mould and pour a little of the clarified stock into it half an inch in depth, place it on the ice, and when set ornament it with fillets of truffles, tongue, and whites of hard-boiled eggs, which cover carefully with more of the clarified stock half an inch thick; when quite set lay in the fillet of beef, the top downwards, and fill the mould with the remainder of the jelly; when set turn it out of the mould upon a dish by dipping the mould in warm water, garnish round with stoned olives and the remainder of the clarified stock; you may also stick atelettes on the top, ornamented tastefully. If you cannot procure a mould place the fillet upon a dish, and garnish it tastefully with croutons of aspic.

No. 989. Cold Ox Tongues.

Dress them as described for flancs in first course, but as soon as they are cooked skin them and cut off nearly all the root, truss it of a good shape by placing the root end against some fixture, and running a fork through the middle of the thin part into the board; when cold trim it. Although I disapprove of ornamented hot tongues for first course, I must confess that a bold design carved upon a fine tongue is pleasing to the eyes on a luncheon or supper-table, and even for dinners in a second course, although seldom used there; the design must be left entirely to the taste of the artist, but one of the most simple and yet tasty designs, is the imitation of a long escalope shell, commencing at the thin end and terminating at the thick; glaze well with light glaze, a sheet of aspic a quarter of an inch in thickness may be laid over it, which will produce a pleasing effect, dress it upon your dish with croutons of aspic round. Tongues for second course, as for the first, are seldom served by themselves, but are usually intended to be eaten with veal or poultry upon the table.

No. 990. Tongue à la Lancret.

Boil, truss, and trim the tongue as above, dress it on your dish, and have ready the following garniture: boil gently four very fine cauliflowers, not too much done, when cold cut three of them into small bunches, have ready a good sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361) in which you have introduced a little whipped cream, dip each piece of cauliflower in the sauce and lay them on a dish, which set upon the ice, dip also the whole cauliflower in; when the sauce has set firm place the cauliflower upon the root of the tongue with an atelette, dress the bunches round the tongue, variegating them with a few stoned olives; the tongue may also be carved in any design your fancy may dictate and nicely glazed.

No. 991. Tongue à la Printanière.

Trim and carve the tongue when cold in the shape of a palm-branch; have some aspic (No. 1360) flavoured rather strongly with tarragon, have also twenty young carrots and twenty middle-sized onions, dressed as directed in No. 428, let them get cold in their glaze, place the tongue in the centre of the dish, glaze lightly, dress the vegetables alternately round upon a thin border of fresh butter, and just as the aspic is on the point of setting pour it over the vegetables, which will look quite transparent, set the dish on ice till ready to serve, a few green peas if in season may be thrown over the onions.

No. 992. Tangue à la Comédienne.

Truss and trim the tongue as usual, carving a comic mask upon it, glaze lightly, and place it upon your dish, have ready prepared the following garniture: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with one of Chili and one of common vinegar, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, a pint of white sauce (No. 7), half ditto of tomata sauce (No. 37), with double the quantity of aspic gelée, reduce over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred till becoming rather thick, then add a spoonful of capers and the same of chopped gherkins, oil a sauté-pan lightly, pour in the sauce, set it on the ice just before serving, turn out on a cloth, cut it in croutons and garnish tastefully.

No. 993. Cold Ham.

Procure a very nice Westmoreland ham of about nine pounds in weight, soak it ten hours in cold water, and simmer three hours[10] in plenty of water; when done take it out and let remain until cold, when cut off the skin as thinly as possible (but without leaving the marks of it), leaving a piece about two inches and a half broad upon the knuckle, which either festoon or vandyke, carve the fat into the form of a shell, branch, or any other design your fancy may direct, glaze lightly, and serve garnished with aspic (No. 1360), chopped and in croutons, or with any of the garnitures directed for the tongues.

No. 994. Fillet of Veal à la Pontoise.

Procure a small leg of veal from a cow calf, cut off the knuckle so as to leave the fillet about eight inches in height, take the bone from the centre, have ready some good veal stuffing (No. 127) in which you have introduced some lean chopped ham and chopped eschalots, season rather high and put it in the place the bone came from, envelope the fillet with large thin slices of fat bacon, tie it up well with string, wrap it in three or four sheets of oiled paper, place it on a spit and roast three hours before a moderate fire, take up, tie it tight in a napkin; place it on a dish to cool, put another dish upon the top, upon which place a fourteen pounds weight, let remain till cold, then take off the paper and bacon, the fillet will be quite white, cut a slice off the top, glaze the sides, and serve with a thin sauce tartare (No. 38) round it.

No. 995. Fillet of Veal à la Cardinale.

Cut a fillet as in the last, have also ready boiled a nice ox-tongue very red; you have also prepared about two pounds of good veal forcemeat (No. 120), run about twenty pieces of fat bacon right through the thickest part of the fillet, surround the tongue (trimmed accordingly) with the forcemeat, and place in the centre of the fillet, but not to protrude out of it, surround it with slices of fat bacon and roast it in vegetables (see Removes, No. 417); when done place it on a dish till cold, without taking away the paper and vegetables, when cold take it out; trim and glaze as in the last, dress on your dish, and garnish with croutons of aspic (No. 1360), cut according to taste, surmount it with six small atelettes, upon each of which you have placed a crawfish (No. 380), truffle, and quenelle de veau (No. 120), it is then ready to serve; the atelettes must be fixed upon the rim of the fillet, leaning outwards to give it a graceful appearance, some of them, however, must be taken out to carve.

No. 996. Loin of Veal au Jambon.

Roast a nice loin in vegetables, in which let it remain till cold, have also a good ham nicely boiled, from which cut twenty-four croutons, the size and shape of small fillets of fowls, dress the veal in the centre and the ham round; fill a large sauté-pan with aspic (No. 1360), which set upon the ice, when firm dip the bottom of the pan in warm water and turn the jelly in one piece over the loin, have also some chopped, with which garnish the ham.

No. 997. Loin of Veal à la Dame Blanche.

Roast a nice loin of veal as in the last, and when cold have ready the following sauce: put six tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar in a stewpan with a blade of mace, six cloves, six peppercorns, one bay-leaf, and two ounces of raw ham; boil altogether three minutes, then add two quarts of sauce béchamel (No. 7) and a pint of aspic (No. 1360), reduce till rather thick over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred, pass it through a tammie into a stewpan, which place upon the ice, keep it stirred, and just as it is beginning to set stir in half a pint of whipped cream, pour over the loin, which stand upon the ice till the sauce is firm, cut six mild Indian pickles into pieces of equal sizes, which strew carelessly over the top.

No. 998. Galantine de Veau au Jambon.

Bone a breast of veal about fifteen inches in length, cut off the end where the shoulder was taken out, and cut out some of the meat in large pieces from the other, so as to leave the skin about half an inch in thickness; then cut the meat in strips the thickness of your finger, and as long as possible, with a corresponding number of strips of fat bacon and cooked ham; have also ready three pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), lay the skin of the breast downwards, open on the dresser, spread some of the forcemeat down the centre half an inch in thickness, leaving good room at the ends and sides, then put a layer of the strips alternately, season with pepper and salt rather high, cover again with forcemeat, then again a layer of the strips, cover the whole with forcemeat, then cover the flaps over and sew it up tight, fold it in a sheet of paper and tie it up in a cloth, place it in a stewpan, cover with good stock (or put it into a stewpan in which you are preparing a stock), place the stewpan over the fire, and when boiling draw it to the corner, where let simmer three hours and a half, then take it up, untie the cloth, and turn the galantine over, from which take off the paper, fold again in the cloth, but be careful to keep the sewn side uppermost, place it in a deep dish surrounded with the stock, place a flat dish upon it, upon which stand a fourteen pounds weight; let remain till quite cold, take it up, trim, draw out the string it was sewn with, cut off the ends, dress it in the centre of your dish, garnish with chopped aspic (No. 1360) in a roll, round outside of which place croutons of the same, and upon the top of the galantine dress smaller croutons of aspic, brown and white alternately. Gherkins quartered lengthwise may be used for the interior of the galantine. The aspic may be made from the stock the galantine is cooked in, by making an addition of two calf’s feet, and clarifying it as directed.

No. 999. Pâté de Veau au Jambon.

Have ready buttered a large raised pie mould,[11] make also a paste with five pounds of flour mixed with a pint and a half of hot water in which you have dissolved a pound of fresh butter, work the paste very smooth with the hand; when cold line your mould with it three quarters of an inch in thickness, and bringing it more than an inch above the top, reserving the trimmings for a cover, line the inside of the pie with forcemeat (No. 120) half an inch in thickness; then have ready larded with fat bacon four pounds of lean veal, which you have cut in pieces the length of the interior of your pie and two inches square, which place in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, well seasoned with pepper, salt, and four bay-leaves, and pass them twenty minutes over the fire until well covered with their own glaze; use them when cold, pouring the gravy from them into the pie; have also two pounds of cooked ham, fat and lean, which cut as near as possible of the same size as the veal, lay two pieces of the veal at the bottom of the pie with a piece of ham between, cover with the forcemeat, and proceed in like manner till you have filled the crust, finishing as a dome above the edges of the pie, which raise gracefully with your fingers, and crimp with a pair of paste pincers, after having placed on a cover of paste a quarter of an inch in thickness, making a hole at the top; then lay an oval piece upon the top to form a lid, which ornament with leaves or as fancy directs, bake five hours in a slow oven, then cut off the lid, lay an oval piece of tin (made for that purpose) upon the meat, upon which place a four pounds weight, let remain till the pie is cold, then take out of the mould, glaze the top and garnish with chopped aspic and croutons of the same; serve either with or without the cover. By filling the pie with strong gravy upon taking it from the oven, shaking it well, you will have no occasion to open or press it to carve it, then it must be cut in thin slices through crust and all.

No. 1000. Cotelettes de Veau à la St. Garat.

Cut six nice cotelettes from a neck of veal, of a nice shape, lard them through and through the fillets with thickish pieces of fat bacon and cooked tongue, place them in a sauté-pan, and cover with a good veal stock, stew gently over a slow fire till tender, lay them flat in a dish, pour their stock over, then lay another dish upon them and press lightly till cold, have six moulds the shape and large enough to contain a cotelette, have also some aspic jelly (No. 1360), pour a little in each mould about a quarter of an inch deep, place them on a dish of ice, and when partly set form a rosette or star upon each, with fillets of hard-boiled white of egg and truffles, cover them with a little more aspic to keep them in their places, and when set firm lay a côtelette upon each, fill the moulds up with aspic and place them on the ice till firm, then dip them in hot water and turn them out on your dish, one to follow the other in a circle, if no moulds place them in a sauté-pan, cover them with aspic, and when set turn them out upon a cloth by dipping the bottom of the pan in warm water, and with the point of a knife cut them out of equal sizes.

No. 1001. Côtelettes de Veau à la Princesse.

Cut, braise, and press six côtelettes as above, make a good sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), and when getting stiff dip each côtelette in so that it is well covered, and place them in a dish upon the ice, dress salad in pyramid in the centre of a flanc dish, against which lay the côtelettes with a small paper frill upon the bone of each, garnish round with croutons of aspic (No. 1360).

No. 1002. Riz de Veau à la Chinoise.

Lard six small sweetbreads as directed for the entrée (No. 671), which braise, keeping them a very light colour, when cold have some very white aspic (No. 1360), and six small plain round moulds; cover the bottoms of the moulds a quarter of an inch deep with aspic, when partly set garnish round with rows of stoned olives and pickled mushrooms, or pieces of beetroot, boiled carrots, turnips, &c., according to fancy, and make a star or rosette of whites or hard-boiled eggs in the centre, cover with a little more of the aspic and when set firm place in the sweetbreads (topsy-turvy) and fill up with aspic, have some rice well boiled and dry, (see No. 129), put it in a stewpan, with six pats of butter and some pepper and salt, when the butter is melted mix well together and place it to get cold on the ice, dress it in pyramid in the centre of a flanc dish, dip the moulds in warm water, and turn them out in an oval circle round the rice, placing a fine cabbage lettuce upon the top.

No. 1003. Cotelettes de Mouton braisé aux navets.

Cut, lard, and braise twelve mutton cotelettes as directed (No. 722), press them in their stock lightly like the veal cotelettes, when cold trim them of a nice shape, you have prepared a good poivrade sauce (No. 32), to which you have added half a pint of aspic (No. 1360), and when nearly cold dip in the cotelettes, holding them by the bones, until they are quite enveloped, dress them (when quite cold) upon a thin border of fresh butter, garnish with croutons of aspic, and serve a ragout of turnips (No. 93) cold in the centre.

No. 1004. Turban de Cotelette de Mouton à la Fermière.

Braise, press, and trim the cotelettes as in the last, but instead of a poivrade reduce a good maître d’hôtel sauce (No. 43), to which add half a pint of cream; when nearly cold dip the cotelettes in the sauce, place them on the ice till somewhat firm, dress them in crown as in the last, then prepare a salad with half a beetroot, one cucumber, one lettuce, season with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, salt, chopped tarragon and chervil; mix all well together, dress in pyramid in the centre of your cotelettes, which garnish with shoes of cucumber and serve.

No. 1005. Carbonade de Mouton.

Proceed as directed (No. 577), and when the carbonade is cold cut it in slices, which trim and dress as directed in either of the two foregoing receipts.

No. 1006. Ballottins d’Agneau à la de Bazan.

Take two very white small shoulders of lamb, bone them completely, cut off some of the meat at the thickest part, so as to give only a quarter of an inch in thickness, season the inside with a little mixed spice, pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots, have ready some forcemeat as directed (No. 120), cover the shoulders half an inch in thickness with it, then lay alternately small fillets of cooked tongue, fat bacon, and lamb cut from a loin, season with pepper and salt, cover with the forcemeat, then another layer of the fillets, then forcemeat, fold it over and sew it up, giving it the form of an egg; when both done tie them in napkins and braise in good stock, try when done with a larding-pin, if tender take them out, press all ways alike to keep the shape of eggs, when cold take them out of the napkins, draw out the string and dress the two on one dish in a slanting direction, stick an atelette at each end, have ready some aspic (No. 1360), or it may be made from the stock by adding two calf’s feet to it, cover the bottom of a sauté-pan with some of it, let set on the ice, then arrange fifty pickled mushrooms and fifty stoned olives over, fill up the sauté-pan and place it on the ice, when set cut it in croutons, with which garnish the ballottins.

No. 1007. Ballottins à la Catalanaise.

Prepare them exactly as in the last, when cold put a quart of sauce béchamel (No. 7) in a stewpan, with a glass of white wine, half a glass of vinegar, and half a pint of consommé, reduce till rather thick, add a little isinglass dissolved in water and pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, place the stewpan upon the fire, and when boiling add a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), in which you have introduced a tablespoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil; when the butter is melted finish with a little cream, place it by to cool, and when upon the point of setting pour it over the ballottins, place them upon the ice till the sauce is quite firm, then garnish tastefully with croutons of aspic (No. 1360) and place an atelette at each end.

No. 1008. Cotelettes d’Agneau à la Gelée.

Take the chine bones from two necks of lamb and saw the ribs rather short, the length you would require your cotelettes, lard the fillets and roast them in vegetables, do not take them out until quite cold, cut your cotelettes from them of a nice shape, reduce a good demi Provençale sauce (No. 34), with which envelope each cotelette, when cold and the sauce is set dress them in crown upon your dish with chopped aspic (No. 1360) in the centre and croutons of the same round.

No. 1009. Cotelettes d’Agneau froid à la Princesse.

Prepare two necks of lamb as above, from which cut the cotelettes, glaze, dress them in crown the reverse way, sauce over with a very white mayonnaise sauce (No, 1364), sprinkle chopped gherkins and chopped ham over.

No. 1010. Galantine de Dinde.

Pluck and draw a turkey, bone it as directed for the poulardes (No. 514), spread it open upon the dresser, have ready some forcemeat as directed (No. 120), spread some down the centre of the turkey, (you have previously turned the legs inside,) half an inch in thickness, have ready some long strips of lean veal the thickness of your finger and the length of the turkey, have also strips of lean cooked ham and fat bacon, lay them alternately upon the forcemeat, season with pepper and salt, then cover with a layer of forcemeat, and so on till you have as much as the bird will contain, finishing with forcemeat, pull the flaps over and sew it up with packthread, tie it up in a napkin and roll it, to press it of the same proportions, put it in a stewpan, with a few vegetables of each sort, and cover with good stock, (or stew it in a veal stock you may be preparing for a white sauce or soup,) stew two hours and a half or till tender, which try with a larding-pin, take it up, untie the string, open the cloth, see that the part where it is sewn up is at the top, wrap it again in the napkin but tie it only at each end, set it in a deep dish surrounded with some of the stock, set another dish upon it and press it till cold with a fourteen pounds weight, make an aspic, using some of the stock it was cooked in as directed (No. 1360), dress the galantine upon a dish, surround it with the aspic chopped and in croutons, and form a star of aspic upon the top, or garnish in any other design your fancy may direct.

No. 1011. Galantine de Dinde aux foies gras.

Proceed exactly as above, using fillets of rabbits instead of veal, and interspersing eight fat livers of poulardes in the interior.

No. 1012. Galantine de Dinde à la Volière.

Bone a very young turkey, and proceed exactly as in the last, using two ounces of pistachios, blanched and skinned, and half a pound of truffles cut into thick fillets, instead of the livers, when stuffed and sewn up roll it very tight in a cloth, which also tie very tight, especially at the tail, which requires to be made so much narrower; stew as before, when done take it out of the napkin, see that the part where it is sewn shall be at the bottom, tie it again in the napkin, but only at the ends, lay it in a deep dish surrounded with the stock it was stewed in, place a dish slantwise upon it (to press the tail thinner), upon which place a ten pounds weight; when cold take it from the napkin, draw out the string and place it upon a dish; you have saved one of the legs of the turkey, cut the foot off an inch and a half below the knuckle, with which form the head and neck of the bird; should the leg of the bird not be of sufficient length make it higher by fixing it upon a wooden skewer, place it at the thickest end of the galantine, covering it with some of the forcemeat (which you have blanched and mixed with a little hot glaze), make of the size and as nearly as possible in imitation of the real head and neck, stick the two claws of a convenient-sized lobster in the sides for wings, and with the tail of the lobster form the tail of the bird; surround it with chopped aspic (No. 1360) in rolls, over which lay thin slices of it to imitate waves, and surround with croutons of the same; it is then ready to serve.

No. 1013. Pâté de Dinde au blanc de Volaille.

Bone a small turkey and line the interior with forcemeat (No. 120), you have prepared a mould as for pâté de veau (No. 999), but using pâte à fine, or pâte à dresser (Nos. 1135, 1136), instead of the pâte there directed, the interior of which also line with forcemeat, trim a nice red ox-tongue (cooked), cut it about the length of the turkey, cover with thickish slices of fat bacon, roll it up in the turkey, which place in the pie, cover with a slice of fat bacon, and again with forcemeat in a dome, finish the pie and bake as directed (No. 999), make a stock with the bones of the turkey, with which make a sauce as directed (No. 57), do not press the meat in the pie, but when three parts cold pour in the sauce, put it in the larder till quite cold, and serve either with or without aspic (No. 1360) on the top.

Galantines may also be made of geese (when young) or pâtés, by following the receipts for the galantines or pâtés of turkey, and adding a little sage and onion to the forcemeat.

Poulardes, capons, and fowls are also used for galantines in either of the ways directed for turkey.

No. 1014. Galantine de Poularde à la Persane.

Make a galantine as directed (No. 998), have ready some grated crust of bread, with which mix an ounce of chopped pistachios; when the galantine is cold glaze it well, and throw the crumbs and pistachios all over, have ready some aspic (No. 1360), put a little in a plain oval mould, about half an inch in depth, when set form a rosette of hard-boiled whites of eggs and truffles, by cutting them with cutters; cover with a little more jelly, so as to make it an inch and a quarter in thickness, the mould must not be quite so large an oval as the galantine; when the aspic is set turn it out of the mould upon the top of the galantine, and precisely in the centre, dress also croutons of aspic around, and stick an atelette at each end, upon each of which you have placed a crawfish and a small hard-boiled egg, shelled and ornamented with wreaths of truffles.

But galantines may be ornamented in several elegant ways, entirely depending upon the taste of the individual; for instance, the aspic may not only be cut in different shaped croutons, but you may have them variegated, (see aspics;) besides the number of tasty designs which may be worked with egg, truffle, pistachios, anchovies, and various things of that description with which aspics may be ornamented; but in all cases let neatness be your object, and avoid confusion or multiplicity of colours.

With the remains of a galantine of any description you may make an excellent and elegant dish, by cutting twenty pieces the size and shape of fillets of fowl; put some aspic a quarter of an inch in depth into a large sauté-pan, stand it on the ice to set, then form twenty stars, or rosettes, with truffles, lay a piece of the galantine over each, which again cover with aspic; when firm dip the pan in warm water, and turn out its contents upon a clean cloth, cut out each fillet with a cutter dipped in hot water, dress them in crown round your dish upon a thin border of anchovy butter, have ready a salad prepared thus: half a dressed beetroot cut in slices, a sliced cucumber, the white of two nice lettuces, and six fillets of anchovies, season with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, salt, and chopped tarragon and chervil, mix well together, dress it in pyramid in the centre of the dish, dress a border of hard-boiled eggs around upon the top of the galantine, and finish the top with chopped aspic, the galantine may also be cut as above, and dressed plain with the salad in the centre, and garnished round with croutons of aspic.

No. 1015. Pâté de Volaille aux truffes.

Line a raised pie-mould with pâte fine (No. 1136) as directed, but you will not require so large a mould; line the pie with forcemeat (No. 120), you have previously boned a small fowl, which stuff as for galantine à la volière (No. 1032), seasoning it rather highly, but it will not require sewing up; having filled it, place it in your pie, cover with forcemeat, forming a dome, finish the pie as directed for pâté de veau, bake two hours and a half in a slow oven, take it out, cut off the lid, lay a sheet of tin upon the meat (made for that purpose), upon which place a seven pounds weight, let remain until cold, then take your pie out of the mould and serve with croutons and chopped aspic (No. 1360) upon the top.

No. 1016. Poulardes à la Mazagran.

Procure two nice poulardes, which roast in vegetables, (with which you have mingled two glasses of sherry,) as for the removes in first course, when done take them up and keep them in the vegetables till quite cold, which will keep them white; you have previously boiled, trussed, and carved a branch of laurel or palm upon a tongue (No. 991), fix an elegant Greek croustade of bread at the head of the dish; you have previously made two quarts of sauce béchamel à la crème (No. 56), very savoury and well reduced; when three parts cold dip the poulardes into it with a fork, take them out quite enveloped with the sauce and put them in the larder till cold, then dress them on your dish their tails to the croustade, their breasts protruding outwards, place the tongue between, the root facing the other end of the dish; you have prepared three atelettes with a crawfish, cockscomb, and truffle upon each, stick one upright in the croustade, and the other two in the root of the tongue, glaze the tongue nicely, and garnish round with bold croutons of aspic (No. 1360) of a very light colour.

No. 1017. Poulardes à la Banquière.

Prepare two poulardes and tongue as in the last; you have reduced a quart of good demi-glace (No. 9), with a pint of sauce tomate (No. 37) and a pint of aspic (No. 1360), keeping it stirred; when about three parts cold dip in the poulardes, place them on your dish and pour the remainder of the sauce over, let get cold, then place on the tongue and croustade with the atelettes garnished similar to the last; you have previously procured thirty fine cockscombs, thirty button mushrooms, as many small truffles, as many small quenelles (No. 120), and two throat-breads cut in as many slices; when quite cooked have ready a quart of bechamel sauce (No. 7) well reduced with half a pint of aspic, add a gill of whipped cream, and when three parts cold dip the above garniture into it, one piece at a time, and lay them on a dish in the ice, when set rather firm garnish the poulardes very tastefully with them, placing here and there the heart of a young cos lettuce.

No. 1018. Poulets Printanier à la Santa Cruz.

Procure four spring chickens nicely trussed as for boiling, lard the breast of each with cooked tongue and truffles to form a cross, tie them in oiled paper and roast, leave them in the paper till cold; you have also boiled two Russian ox tongues, split each one in halves lengthwise and trim them neatly to give them the shape of small tongues, prepare also a croustade of bread in the form of a pyramid, eight inches in height and three in width at the bottom, place it in the centre of your dish with an atelette upon the top, place a chicken resting upon the breast, tail uppermost, at each side upon a little cold mashed potatoes, and the tongue at the four corners, pour a red sauce mayonnaise (No. 1363) over the chickens but not to cover the cross, glaze the tongues lightly, and garnish round the edges with rolls of chopped aspic.

No. 1019. Poulets Printanier à la Princesse Royale.

Prepare your chickens and tongues as in the last, but do not lard them, dish them the same, make a border of plovers’ eggs round, placing little heads of cos lettuce between, sauce over the chickens with a very white mayonnaise sauce and lightly glaze the tongues.

No. 1020. Poularde à la Guillaume Tell.

Procure a fine poularde, bone it carefully, season the interior with chopped eschalots, pepper, and salt, cover with a little forcemeat (No. 120); you have previously boiled a tongue, when cold cut off the root, trim and cut it in large dice, which mix with forcemeat and stuff the poularde with it, cover over the flaps and sew the poularde in its original shape, tie it up in a napkin and braise it in good stock, to which you have added two calf’s feet, stew two hours and a half, take it up and press it lightly, when cold draw out the packthread, reduce the stock to a demi-glace but keep it as clear as possible, procure a mould large enough to contain the poularde, and an inch higher, place it on the ice, pour in a little of the stock a quarter of an inch in thickness, when it sets throw in some truffles and hard-boiled whites of eggs cut in dice, then lay in the poularde, which cover with the remainder of the stock, when set firm dip the mould in warm water and turn it out on your dish, garnish round with chopped aspic and croutons, and stick three atelettes ornamented upon the top, two slantingly at the ends, and one upright in the centre.

No. 1021. Chaud froid de Poularde.

Cut a nice capon or poularde into two fillets, two good wings, two legs, and two pieces of back, lay them in lukewarm water one hour to disgorge, wash well, then put them in a stewpan, cover with two quarts of good veal stock, add two middling-sized onions, with a clove stuck in each, a bunch of parsley, and a blade of mace, set on the fire till boiling, then set it on the corner, skim, and let simmer very gently nearly an hour; take them out, and drain them upon a cloth, then in another stewpan make a white roux (No. 7), as for white sauce, with two ounces of butter, and when partly cold add the stock to it; boil well, keeping it stirred all the time; if too thick, add a little more good stock; but it requires to be rather thickish; add a little sugar, four pats of butter, and a gill of cream; put the pieces of poularde in a deep dish, with thirty button onions, which you have previously peeled and stewed in a little white stock, pass the sauce through a tammie over, and let them remain till quite cold, dress a little salad upon a flanc dish, upon which dress the pieces pyramidically, forming small pyramids here and there with the onions, and placing a small sprig of parsley upon each, garnish with croutons of aspic (No. 1360) cut rather bold.

No. 1022. Chaud froid de Poularde à la Pembroke.

Proceed as above, adding twenty button mushrooms with the onions you have chopped, a good-sized truffle, and a piece of very red tongue, which sprinkle over each piece as you dish them up.

No. 1023. Chaud froid de Poularde en mayonnaise.

Prepare as above, dress in a bordure upon the salad, sauce over with a mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), and place a large truffle, with a cockscomb upon it, at the top.

This dish may also be made with the remains of poulardes from a previous dinner, by cutting them in neat pieces and dipping them into a good bechamel sauce (No. 7), well reduced and half cold; when the sauce is set, proceed as before.

No. 1024. Filets de Poulardes à la Nesselrode.

Take the four fillets from two poulardes, as directed (No. 792), lay them in a sauté-pan with plenty of butter, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, and sauté them gently over a slow fire; when done place them on a dish, with another dish upon them, till quite cold, then with a thin knife split each fillet into two; have ready a quart of good bechamel sauce (No. 7), add a pint of white stock, in which you have stewed the bones from the poulardes, reduce again to a quart, then stir in a liaison of one yolk of egg, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream; stir over the fire half a minute, then pass it through a tammie; dip each fillet in the sauce, and lay them, when perfectly enveloped, upon a dish till cold; you have previously soaked and boiled two Russian pickled tongues; when cold cut eight pieces from them the size of the fillets, which glaze lightly; dress a border of eggs (hard boiled) upon a flanc dish, which tastefully ornament with small fillets of anchovies upon the top of each piece of egg, and rings of beetroot around, surround it with croutons of aspic, fill the centre with some salad nicely seasoned, dress the fillets and tongue alternately upon the top in crown, and sauce mayonnaise (No. 1361) in the centre.

No. 1025. Filets de Poulardes à la Ravigote.

Fillet three poulardes and dress them as in the last, but add two ounces of ravigote butter (No. 80) with the sauce you dip them in, dish them the same but omit the tongue, and sauce with a green mayonnaise (No. 1363).

No. 1026. Petits Canetons en aspic.

After having used the fillets for either of the preceding dishes, take off the legs with as much of the skin as possible, bone and spread them out before you, have ready some forcemeat (No. 120), to which add two chopped truffles, put a good tablespoonful upon each leg, then sew them round with packthread; when done place them in a stewpan, with two onions sliced, a little lean ham, a sprig of thyme, parsley, and bay-leaf, add rather more than a pint of stock, and stew them very gently one hour over a slow fire; when done place them in a dish with their stock, place another dish upon them and press very lightly; you have saved and half stewed the bones from the legs, with which you may easily form the heads and neck, stick them into the thicker end of the birds, form the wings and tails with the claws and tails of crawfish, in imitation of little ducklings, dress them to form a cross upon a round dish, and garnish with aspic chopped and in croutons; four will be sufficient for an entremet, and eight for a flanc; they likewise make handsome garniture for larger dishes.

No. 1027. Salade de Volaille.

Roast a poularde or large fowl in vegetables; when done and quite cold cut it into ten fine pieces, place it in a basin, with a large onion sliced, a little oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, toss them over occasionally, allowing them to remain an hour; you have dressed a border of hard-boiled eggs upon a thin border of butter, garnish round with half slices of cucumber, gherkins, and beetroot, and place a fillet of anchovy upon each piece of egg, fill the interior with salad cut rather fine, upon which build the pieces of fowl in pyramid, (dipping each piece into the sauce,) the best pieces at the top, and just as you send it to table sauce over with a sauce mayonnaise (No. 1363).

No. 1028. Salade de Filets de Poularde à la Brunow.

Gut the flesh from a poularde into slices as near as possible the size of half-crown pieces, cut also some slices of cucumber, which stew in white stock with a little sugar till quite tender; when done drain upon a sieve, and add them to the slices of fowl, also a few peas well boiled, if in season; put a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with a pint of aspic (No. 1360) and a little sugar, boil altogether until rather thick, keeping it stirred, then add the blanquette of fowl with the vegetables, shake the stewpan round and pour the whole into a sauté-pan, which place upon the ice; when quite set dip it in warm water and turn it out on a clean cloth, cut it in middling-sized pieces of a diamond shape and dress upon a salad prepared as in the last; dress them in crown and sauce tartare (No. 38) in the centre, making the sauce white by using English mustard instead of French, and adding a spoonful of whipped cream.

No. 1029. Poulets Printaniers à la Masaniello.

Bone two spring chickens without opening them at the back, have some good veal forcemeat (No. 120) and an ox-tongue well boiled, which cut into two pieces, trim them and place one piece in each chicken, fill the remaining space up with forcemeat, tie them in a thin cloth and stew them an hour or rather more in good veal stock (No. 7), lay them on a dish breasts downwards and press them lightly, place a little aspic (No. 1360) at the bottom of a plain oval mould large enough to contain one of the chickens; when it sets lay in the chicken and cover with more aspic, dip the other chicken into a sauce béchamel à la crème (No. 56); when the sauce is about half cold and quite set place a croustade of bread (representing a fishing-boat) in the centre, with a chicken on each side; having turned out the one in the aspic, stick three atelettes in the croustade ornamented with a large quenelle de volaille, a truffle, and a cockscomb; sauce round with a very white mayonnaise sauce. The mast in the croustade must be made of pâte d’office (see plate containing the designs for croustades).

No. 1030. Moule d’Aspic à la Royale.

Cut the flesh from the breast of a poularde or large fowl into slices the size of half-crown pieces as near as possible, cut also a large truffle in slices, have about twenty very white button mushrooms, and ten dressed cockscombs, boil a quart of sauce béchamel (No. 7) with a pint of aspic, keeping it stirred until rather thick, add a little sugar and the above ragout, shake the stewpan round and pour the whole into a sauté-pan, which place upon the ice till firm, dip the pan in warm water and turn it out upon a clean cloth,--it should be about a quarter of an inch in thickness,--with an oval cutter an inch and a half long and one broad, cut it into as many pieces as possible; have ready a flat round mould with a cylinder, put a little aspic at the bottom, which decorate with whites of eggs (hard-boiled) and truffles, place it on the ice and when set dress in the fillets in crown, fill the mould with the aspic, keep it on the ice till ready, when dip the mould in warm water and turn it out upon your dish.

No. 1031. Galantine de Faisan aux truffes.

Bone two pheasants if for a flanc, one if for a cold entrée, lay it out before you and proceed exactly as for a galantine of turkey, only using the forcemeat for game (No. 123) as directed, and fillets of hare or rabbit instead of veal, braise and press the same, allowing for the difference in size, serve garnished with aspic (No. 1360) chopped and in croutons.

No. 1032. Galantine de Faisans à la Volière.

Proceed as in the last, but press and garnish them as directed for galantine de dinde (No. 1010), but the claws must be from a very small lobster.

No. 1033. Pâté de Faisans aux truffes.

Bone a couple of pheasants and fill each one as for a galantine, but not too tight, they will not require sewing up; you have lined a raised pie-mould with pâte fine (No. 1136), as directed (No. 997), line the pie with forcemeat (No. 120), place one of the pheasants at the bottom, cover it with forcemeat, then put in the other which also cover with forcemeat, finishing in a dome; finish the pie as before directed, bake it four hours in a slow oven, press it till cold and serve with aspic (No. 1360) chopped and in croutons upon the top; by filling the pie up with good strong stock when taken from the oven there would be no necessity for pressing it.

No. 1034. Filets de Faisans à la Prince George.

Roast three pheasants in vegetables quite white, take out the fillets, cut each one in halves to form two, making twelve, pound well the meat from the legs, and put it into a stewpan, with a quart of white sauce (No. 7) and half a pint of good white stock, boil till rather thick, then rub it through a tammie, pour into a stewpan, place over the fire, and stir until boiling, then add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of whipped cream, stir in quickly but do not let it boil afterwards, place it by in a basin, and when half cold dip each fillet in with a fork, let it be quite enveloped and place them by till quite cold; you have prepared a border of forcemeat as directed for ris de veau à la turque (No. 673), place it on your dish and dress the fillets in crown upon it, have ready turned and blanched a pottle of good white button mushrooms, mix them with the remainder of the sauce, whip half a pint of aspic (No. 1360) upon the ice till becoming very light and white, mix it with the sauce, which dress in the centre of your fillets and garnish round with a light border of the hearts of lettuces.

Fillets of pheasants may also be served with a sauce macédoine de légumes as directed (No. 98) but cold.

No. 1035. Chaud froid de Filets de Faisans.

Proceed with the pheasants precisely as in the last, only using a sauce gibier (No. 60) instead of the sauce béchamel, dress them in turban in the centre of your dish, pour a little more of the sauce over, and garnish with a border of hard-boiled eggs, placing a sprig of parsley between.

No. 1036. Grouse

Like pheasants make excellent galantines and pies by following the same receipts. They may also be dressed in either of the methods directed for pheasants, but requiring rather less time to cook.

No. 1037. Galantine de Grouse à la Montagnard.

Form two small grouse into galantines as directed for à la volière (No. 1032) into the shape of birds; have ready three parts cold a good sauce à la purée de grouse (No. 59), with which envelope them, leaving it upon them rather rough, sprinkle brown bread-crumbs and chopped pistachios all over, dress croutons of aspic (No. 1360) round, and garnish with a little of the heather from the mountains.

No. 1038. Salade de Grouse à la Soyer.

Make a very thin border of fresh butter upon a convenient-sized dish, upon which stand a very elevated border of hard-boiled eggs, (by cutting a piece off the bottoms when quite cold and cutting each one into four lengthwise,) fill the centre with some nice fresh salad, and ornament the eggs with fillets of anchovies, beetroot, gherkins, &c., according to taste; you have previously roasted three grouse rather underdone; when quite cold cut them into neat pieces, that is, into legs, wings, part of the backs, and each breast into six slices, then have ready the following sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped eschalots in a basin, with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, the yolks of two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of chopped tarragon and chervil, a saltspoonful of white pepper, and two of salt, with which mix by degrees twelve tablespoonfuls of salad oil and three of Chili vinegar; mix well together and place it upon the ice; when ready to serve whip half a pint of cream rather stiff, which add to the sauce, pour a little over the salad, upon which lay some of the worst pieces of grouse, over which put more sauce, proceeding in like manner to the top, dressing them pyramidically. When it is for the flanc of a large dinner I only use the fillets, roasting four or five grouse instead of three, and when you have dressed three parts of the pieces of grouse upon the salad, build a second row of eggs upon it, having formed a level with the pieces for that purpose, and terminate exactly as the design represents. I must observe that the salad is better adapted for gentlemen than ladies, though if less eschalot were used it might also meet their approbation.[12]

No. 1039. Perdreaux à la Downshire.

Partridges being smaller birds are mostly used for cold entrées, but four will make an excellent flanc; draw them and extract the breast-bone, have ready one pound of forcemeat of game (No. 123), with which mix six truffles cut in fillets, and thirty pieces of fat bacon the size and shape of dice; stuff the birds, sew them up, and place them in a stewpan with three onions in slices, a head of celery, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, nearly cover them with stock, simmer over a slow fire nearly an hour, leave them to get cold in the stock, drain them on a cloth, and dress on your dish in the form of a cross, with the heart of a nice cos lettuice in the centre; pass and clarify the stock they were cooked in, adding a little isinglass, reduce to demi-glace, and when nearly cold pour it over, but do not serve till quite cold, garnish round with some nice fresh water-cresses.

No. 1040. Galantine de Perdreaux à la Volière.

Proceed as directed for the pheasants (No. 1032), only using the claws and tails of large crawfish instead of lobsters as there directed, dress them with the four tails in the centre, and aspic (No. 1360) round; one hour and a half would be sufficient to stew them.

Fillets of partridges are dressed in the same manner as the fillets of pheasant (Nos. 1034 and 1035).

No. 1041. Pâté de Perdreaux.

Have a round mould about five inches in height and four in diameter, which line with pâte fine (No. 1136), which again line with forcemeat (No. 123), you have previously boned two partridges, which fill as for galantine à la volière, fold each one in a slice of bacon, lay one at the bottom, which cover with forcemeat, then the other, which also cover, finishing in a dome, cover with the paste, work up the edges, and crimp as for the pâté de veau; bake it two hours in a moderate oven, take off the cover and pour in a pint of stock in which you have stewed the bones of the partridges, and boil half an ounce of isinglass, previously passing it through a napkin; serve neatly garnished upon the top with aspic (No. 1360) chopped and in croutons. It must be quite cold previous to garnishing.

No. 1042. Bécasses à la d’Orleans.

Roast four woodcocks underdone, catching their trails upon toasted bread, with two others make a purée as directed (No. 59), into which dip the four roasted ones, and let them remain till nearly cold, then take them out and sprinkle all over with chopped ham and whites of hard-boiled eggs; you have prepared a croustade in the form of a vase, which stand in the centre of your dish, cut the toast in four pieces, each the form of a diamond, dress the woodcocks round the croustade upon each piece, dress hard-boiled eggs in a border upon the croustade, and garnish with aspic jelly, whipped (No. 1360), chopped, and quite white, in the interior, and in croutons round.

Pâtés of woodcocks are excellent, they are made the same as for partridges, keeping their trails for the interior of the birds after they are boned.

Plovers and snipes may be dressed precisely as directed for the woodcocks.

No. 1043. Pâté froid de Mauviettes

Is also a very favourite dish for second course, and when well prepared stands high in the estimation of a gourmet; the following receipt is exactly as they are prepared at Pithiviers: pluck and bone six dozen of larks, take out the interior, extract the gizzard, and pound the intestines with two pounds of forcemeat (No. 123), place a little in each bird, roll them up, and envelope them in very thin slices of fat bacon; you have lined a raised pie-mould with paste as for pâté de veau (No. 999), which again line with the forcemeat, place a layer of the larks at the bottom, then a layer of forcemeat, then larks again, till quite full, and finish with a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), a thin slice of fat bacon, and three bay-leaves, cover with paste and bake in a moderate oven two hours and a half, place it by, and when half cold add a pint of good game sauce (No. 60), shake it well in; when quite cold take off the lid, and garnish with some fresh sprigs of parsley. At Pithiviers the pies are made square, and crimped from top to bottom, but the shape has nothing to do with the quality, and I consider those made in moulds look the handsomest.

Pâtés as above may be made of all small birds that are eatable.

No. 1044. Salade de Homard à l’Indienne.

Prepare a border of hard-boiled eggs as directed for salade de grouse (No. 1038), dress some nice fresh salad in the centre, then take the flesh from a very fine lobster, or two middling-sized ones, cut it in as large slices as possible, put it in a basin, and season with a little tarragon, and chervil, pepper, and salt; dress them in pyramid upon the salad, interspersing six mild Indian pickles in slices, and serving with a good white sauce mayonnaise (No. 1364) over.

No. 1045. Mayonnaise de Homard à la gelée.

Prepare a border of half hard-boiled eggs and half croutons of strong aspic (No. 1360), cut the same height as the eggs, and triangular, dress some salad in the centre as in the last, and the lobster well seasoned upon the top, and sauce over with a sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361).

No. 1046. Miroton de Homard à la Cardinale.

Cut the flesh of a large lobster into slices as large as possible, and nearly an equal size; reduce a pint of white sauce (No. 7) (with which you have mixed two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar) to two thirds; then dip half the pieces of lobster into it with a fork, and place them on a dish to cool, add two ounces of red lobster butter (No. 77) to the remainder of the sauce, stir it well in, and dip in the remainder of the pieces; when cold and set, dress them in crown upon salad, with a white mayonnaise in the centre.

No. 1047. Homard en Aspic.

Cut twenty slices of lobster as above, of equal sizes, dip them into the white sauce as there directed, and put them by until cold; then put a little clear aspic jelly (No. 1360) in the bottom of a flat cylinder mould, ornament it with the whites of hard-boiled eggs cut in diamonds, squares, leaves, and crescents, arranged in the form of wreaths, branches, &c.; just cover with a little more jelly, and when set lay in the slices of lobster slanting, one resting upon the other, and fill up the mould with aspic, place it on the ice, and when firm dip the mould in warm water, and turn the aspic out upon your dish; fill the centre with some finely cut salad, upon which build some more lobster, which sauce over with a sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), but not to run over the aspic.

No. 1048. Homard au Gratin.

Procure three small lobsters, cut them down the centre, save all the shells, and cut the flesh into small slices, put a spoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, pass them over a sharp fire a few minutes, keeping them stirred; then add a pint of white sauce, reduce one-third, keeping it stirred, add the flesh of the lobster, season with a little pepper, salt, cayenne, and essence of anchovies; stir gently over a sharp fire, and when boiling take it off, stir in the yolks of two eggs, put it into the shells, egg and bread-crumb over, place them in a warm oven ten minutes, salamander of a good colour, and serve very hot, dressed upon a napkin, garnished with a few sprigs of fresh parsley.

Lobsters au gratin may also be served in silver, escalope shells if handy are preferred.

No. 1049. Crabs

May be dressed in salad, like lobster, cutting the hard part into as large slices as possible, and passing the soft through a hair sieve, and mixing it with the sauce.

No. 1050. Coquilles aux Huîtres.

Procure the deep shells of twelve oysters, which well clean, butter the interior slightly, and as many bread-crumbs as will adhere to the butter; you have previously blanched and bearded four dozen of oysters, lay them on a cloth to drain, then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalot into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, pass them a few minutes over the fire, stir in a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour, add a pint of oyster sauce (No. 69), reduce one third, then add your oysters, season with a little pepper, salt, cayenne, chopped parsley, and essence of anchovies, stir gently over the fire, and when quite hot stir in the yolks of two eggs, stir over the fire a short time till it thickens, but do not let it boil, then fill the shells, egg and bread-crumb over, place in a hot oven ten minutes, salamander a nice colour, dress in pyramid, and garnish with fried parsley.

No. 1051. Salade de Filets de Soles.

Fillet two or three soles, then well butter a sauté-pan, lay in your fillets, which season with a little white pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and the juice of a lemon, place them over a slow fire, and when half done turn them over (they must be kept quite white), when done lay them flat upon a dish with another dish upon them till cold; cut each fillet in halves, trim them of nice shapes, and put them in a basin with a little chopped tarragon and chervil, chopped eschalots, pepper and salt; then dress a salad as directed (No. 1038), dress the fillets in crown upon the salad, and sauce over with a good mayonnaise sauce (No. 1364).

No. 1052. Filets de Soles aux Concombres.

Fillet two soles and dress them as above, cut each fillet in halves, then have sixteen pieces of cucumber the same size as the fillets, but thinner, dress them in turban alternately with the fillets upon a thin border of fresh butter, sauce over the fillets only with a sauce mayonnaise (No. 1364) in which you have added a little whipped cream, and dress a good salad cut rather fine in the centre. The remains of turbot or John Dorée, may be cut into fillets and served in either of the above methods.

Fillets of soles may also be served in aspic, or miroton à la cardinale, as directed for lobster (Nos. 1047 and 1046).

No. 1053. Truites marinées en mayonnaise.

Put three onions sliced in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, one turnip, one carrot (in slices), a head of celery (cut small), a good handful of parsley, and two bay-leaves; pass the whole ten minutes over a sharp fire, add a pint of vinegar, a blade of mace, and half a dozen peppercorns; let simmer, then add three pints of water; you have cleaned three fine freshwater trout, which put in the above marinade and let them simmer half an hour; let them get cold in the marinade, take them out, drain upon a cloth, and dress them on your dish, the head of the centre one pointing with the tails of the others; sauce over with a very white mayonnaise sauce (No. 1364) into which you have put extra chopped tarragon and chervil and a little whipped cream.

No. 1054. Darne de Saumon marinée.

Cut two good slices from the middle of a fine salmon, four inches in thickness, and dress them in a marinade, as for the trout, first tying them up; stew one hour, and leave them in the marinade to cool; when quite cold drain them on a cloth; dress on your dish, fill the centre with Montpelière butter (No. 1366), garnish with a border of eggs, and sauce round with a very white Tartare sauce (No. 38), and sprinkle a little chopped gherkins over.

No. 1055. Galantine d’Anguille.

Procure two fine eels, skin and bone them, have ready prepared some forcemeat of whiting (No. 124), lay the eel open before you and spread some of the forcemeat down the centre, upon which lay small fillets of truffle, pistachios, cooked tongue, and whiting, cover with more of the forcemeat, and sew the eel up in its original shape, cut it into two equal parts and envelope each in thin slices of fat bacon, tie in a napkin and place them in a stewpan in which you have prepared a marinade as for the trout, but using half a pint of Madeira wine instead of vinegar, stew gently half an hour or until tender, and leave it to get cold in the stock, take out and remove them from the napkin, glaze and place them on your dish side by side upon a stand of Montpellier butter (No. 1366), and a little between them to hold them together; garnish round with craw-fish and croutons of aspic (No. 1360). Six rolls of them, each three inches high, may be dressed into what we term a bastion, that is standing them up on end in a circle, joining them together with Montpellier butter, and placing the half of a hard-boiled egg cut across (to form a cap) upon each, decorated with fillets of anchovies and very green gherkins.

VEGETABLES FOR SECOND COURSE.

Where a dish of vegetables are required for second course, if there should be two flancs contrive to let the vegetables make one of them; but if there should only be four dishes in the second course they may be dressed upon one of them, as also in larger dinners, and especially when there are a great many vegetables in season.

No. 1056. Asparagus

Is one of the most favourite vegetables we have, and is generally served plain; the large grass is preferred, although the smaller is, in my opinion, the fullest flavour for a dish; you require a hundred large ones or a hundred and a half of small, scrape and cut them of equal lengths, (about eight inches,) and tie them in bundles of fifteen; about twenty minutes before ready to serve have a gallon of water, in which you have put two ounces of salt, boiling in a stewpan, put in your grass, let boil quickly, and when tender take it up, dress in pyramid as high as possible upon a piece of toasted bread, and serve melted butter (No. 71) or sauce Hollandaise in a boat.

No. 1057. Asperges en petits Pois.

Procure a bunch of small green asparagus, or sprue, break off the green tops carefully, avoiding the white parts, cut the tops into pieces the size of large peas, boil them in half a gallon of water into which you have put an ounce of salt: when tender strain them off, but be careful they are not too much done, or they would go in purée and taste watery; drain them dry upon a sieve and put them into a stewpan, with eight spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, with a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; place the stewpan upon the fire, move them round gently, add four pats of butter, and when melted finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a quarter of a gill of cream; move it round over the fire, and when it thickens pour them upon your dish and dress croutons of fried bread round; or they may be served in a croustade of bread.

No. 1058. Sea-Kale.

The short thick kale is the best, trim it nicely, about sixteen heads will be sufficient for a dish, boil till tender in a gallon of water, with two ounces of salt, take them out, place them on a clean cloth to drain, and dress them pyramidically upon a piece of toasted bread; serve plain melted butter separate in a boat.

No. 1059. Céleri à la Moëlle de Bœuf.

Procure ten fine heads of celery, cut them to about seven inches in length, (the red celery is the best,) if too thick take off some of the outside sticks, wash and trim them nicely, blanch ten minutes in boiling water, drain them on a cloth, put them into a convenient-sized stewpan just covered with a good white stock, in which let them stew gently till tender, drain them, dress upon toast, place four large pieces of marrow round, (which you have boiled in water,) and sauce over with a pint of good brown sauce (No. 1), which you have reduced with half a pint of the stock the celery was stewed in, and seasoned with a little sugar.

No. 1060. Céleri à la Chetwynd.

Trim and blanch ten fine heads of red celery, as in the last, blanch also twelve middling-sized onions twenty minutes, place them in a stewpan with the celery, cover with veal stock (No. 7), and stew gently till tender, dress the celery upon toast with the onions round and sauce over with a good white bechamel sauce (No. 7) which you have reduced with half a pint of the stock the vegetables were cooked in till becoming thickish, then add half a gill of very thick cream, a little sugar, and sauce over.

No. 1061. Salsifis à la Poulette.

Salsifis although a very favourite vegetable on the continent and very plentiful in England, is seldom used, but I hope the following recipes will tend to bring it more in vogue.

Choose fifteen or twenty young ones, scrape the black skin, cut them into pieces three inches long, rub each piece with lemon and throw them into water, then put two onions, a carrot, one turnip, and a head of celery, all cut small into a stewpan, with a handful of parsley, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a little thyme, two bay-leaves, and a quarter of a pound of beef suet chopped fine, stir it over a sharp fire ten minutes, then add two ounces of flour, (stir well in,) fill up with two quarts of water, with the juice of a lemon, stir it till it boils, then put in your salsifis which stew gently till tender, take them out and lay them upon a cloth to drain, then put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) into another stewpan, with half a pint of white stock, stir over a sharp fire till boiling, then add twenty button mushrooms and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; season with a little pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and powdered sugar, put in the salsifis, let simmer gently for half an hour, (the sauce must be rather thick,) take out and dress it in two rows upon a border of mashed potatoes, finish the sauce with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream, stir over the fire till it thickens but do not let it boil; sauce over and serve.

No. 1062. Salsifis à la Moëlle de Bœuf.

Prepare the salsifis as above; when very tender dress it upon your dish, have four large pieces of beef marrow (well boiled in water), sauce over with a good demi-glace (No. 9), garnish with croutons of fried bread in the shape of hearts, and serve with a piece of marrow upon each.

No. 1063. Fried Salsifis.

Cook the salsifis as before, let them get cold in the stock, then take them out, drain upon a cloth, and trim them all of equal sizes, then put them in a basin, with a spoonful of vinegar, four of salad oil, and a little pepper and salt, let them marinade six hours, turning over occasionally a quarter of an hour before serving, dip each piece separately in a fritter batter (No. 1285) and fry them in a stewpan of hot lard, when done lay them on a cloth and dress in pyramid upon a napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.

Salsifis well cooked and tender, when cold, is very good in salad or to ornament a mayonnaise.

No. 1064. Concombres farcis en demi-glace.

Procure four very fine cucumbers, which cut into pieces three inches in length, peel them and take out the seeds with a long round cutter, then have ready some very nice forcemeat of veal (No. 120), into which you have put a little chopped basil, thyme, and laurel leaf, put a piece of bacon at each end, which tie on, place them in a stewpan, with a little stock, and stew gently three quarters of an hour or till tender, then drain them upon a cloth, trim each end, and dress in pyramid upon a border of mashed potatoes, but be careful not to break them; sauce over with a good demi-glace (No. 9) and serve; the forcemeat must not be too delicate.

No. 1065. Concombres farcis à la crème.

Proceed with the cucumbers as in the last, but sauce over with a celery sauce à la Chetwynd (No. 1060).

No. 1066. Croustade aux Concombres.

Prepare a plain croustade according to the size of your dish, and three inches in height, then have four cucumbers, which cut into pieces two inches and a half long, peel them, split each piece into three, take out the seeds and trim them neatly, put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and cover with white stock, let them stew till tender, drain them upon the back of a sieve; in another stewpan have a pint of good bechamel sauce (No. 7), which reduce till rather thick, then add the cucumber and a little powdered sugar, place on the fire, and when boiling finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream: place the croustade upon your dish, pour the ragout into it, and serve.

No. 1067. Vegetable Marrows.

Are excellent when young and about the size of turkeys’ eggs; peel fifteen and boil them in half a gallon of water, into which you have put two ounces of butter and two ounces of salt, boil twenty minutes, or till quite tender, drain them upon a cloth, and dress upon a border of mashed potatoes, in the form of an oval dome; sauce over with a pint of good melted butter (No. 71), with which you have introduced a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream. All sauces for vegetables require to be rather thick, as it is impossible to drain the vegetables quite dry to serve them hot. Vegetable marrows dressed as above may also be served with a white sauce à l’Italienne (No. 31).

No. 1068. Jerusalem Artichokes.

Are very useful vegetables when judiciously employed, as my readers will perceive by many of the foregoing recipes; they are good five months in the year, from October till March, and some seasons much longer; when they become too rough they have lost their succulence, and are only fit to flavour stocks: take about thirty of the best shaped ones and as near as possible of the same size; turn them into the shape of pears, boil in salt and water, with which you have put a quarter of a pound of butter; when tender take them out, drain them upon a cloth, and dress in the form of a dome; sauce over with melted butter (No. 71), sauce Hollandaise (No. 66), sauce bechamel (No. 7), sauce ravigote (No. 44), or sauce tomate (No. 37).

No. 1069. Cauliflowers and Brocoli.

Both vegetables are very excellent and universally employed; they require great particularity in cleaning; the best way is to throw plenty of salt over them and put them in cold water till ready to cook, boil them in salt and water till tender, but not too much done or they will not hold together; the heads should not be too large, and the best are close and firm; when done dress some nice green Brussels sprouts upon a border of mashed potatoes with the cauliflowers in the centre, mix nearly half a pint of good white sauce (No. 7), with the same quantity of melted butter (No. 71), and when hot add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two spoonfuls of cream; sauce over and serve; they may also be served with a sauce à la maître d’hôtel (No. 43).

No. 1070. Chouxfleurs au Parmesan.

Boil three cauliflowers as before, and when done drain them upon a cloth, then put a pint of good white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a pint of milk, season with a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, reduce it over a sharp fire till getting thick, add half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese and a quarter of a pound of grated Gruyer, mix well and stir in two yolks of eggs, then put a little at the bottom of your dish, dress some of the cauliflower in pieces upon it, which again cover with sauce, proceeding thus till you have formed a dome, finishing with the sauce all over, egg and bread-crumb lightly, put it in a warm oven a quarter of an hour, salamander of a light brown colour, and serve.

No. 1071. Artichokes.

Are very great favourites with most epicures, and their flavour renders them worthy of so high an appreciation.

Have six not over large but of a very good size, trim the bottoms rather close till it shows the white streak, cut also an inch from the top with a pair of scissors, and a little off the point of each leaf, have a gallon of water (into which you have put half a pound of salt,) boiling, put in the artichokes and boil one hour, or till you can pull out a leaf with facility, take them up, lay them upon a cloth to drain, upside down, dress them upon a napkin, and serve with melted butter separate in a boat; they may be boiled previously and kept in cold water till wanted, and are ready by merely dipping them in boiling water.

No. 1072. Artichokes à la Barigoule.

Trim your artichokes as above and blanch twenty minutes, place them in cold water, then scoop out the interior with the handle of a spoon and your fingers, taking out every particle from the interior, have some fat in a stewpan very hot, into which dip the tops of the artichokes till of a yellow colour, then put them back upon the cloth; you have scraped a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, which put into a stewpan, with four tablespoonfuls of oil, four of chopped onions and eschalots, two of chopped mushrooms, and one of chopped parsley, a little thyme, two bay-leaves, and a little pepper, salt, and sugar; pass the whole ten minutes over a moderate fire, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), boil twenty minutes, stir in two spoonfuls of bread-crumbs and set it in a cold place; when cold mix it again and put an equal proportion in each artichoke; tie a square piece of fat bacon a quarter of an inch in thickness upon each, tie them across with string and put them into a flat stewpan, with three pints of good stock, set them in a moderate oven to braise for about three quarters of an hour, or till you can take a leaf out with facility, then take them out, drain them on a cloth, take off the string and bacon, and dress them upon your dish four at the bottom and two at the top, with two spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) in each. For the amateur who does not object to the flavour of onions, dressed in the above manner they are most appreciated.

No. 1073. Artichauts à la Bordelaise.

Proceed exactly as above, but filling them with the following sauce (instead of the sauce there mentioned): peel thirty large button onions and cut them in rings, put them in a stewpan with a little oil, and fry of a light yellow colour, add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, mix well, then add eighteen stoned olives, and the fillets of four anchovies well washed, stew till all is well cooked, then season with a little pepper, sugar, and a piece of scraped garlic the size of a pea, fill the artichokes, and when done serve with a little white sauce in each.

No. 1074. Artichauts à l’Italienne.

Take four good artichokes, cut them in quarters and trim them well, cutting all the green from the bottoms and taking out all the fur from the interior, put them in a stewpan of boiling water (to blanch) a quarter of an hour; then take them out, drain them upon a cloth, put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a sauté-pan with a tablespoonful of oil, and one of wine, pass them one minute over the fire, then put in the artichokes, which cover with brown sauce and a little stock, stew them gently over a moderate fire till you can pull out a leaf with facility, take them out and dress in turban upon a border of mashed potatoes, put a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms into the sauté-pan, reduce the sauce to a proper consistency, season with a little sugar and salt if required, sauce over and serve.

No. 1075. Artichauts au Velouté.

Prepare the artichokes as above, and blanch them, put an ounce of butter in a sauté-pan, lay in the artichokes, which cover with a good white sauce (No. 7); place a lid upon the sauté-pan, and put them in a moderate oven till done, then take out the artichokes, which dress in turban as above; put a little milk in the sauté-pan, reduce the sauce till rather thickish, add a little sugar, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream, pass through a tammie and sauce over.

No. 1074. Artichaux à la Bruxellaise.

Dress a border of artichokes as in the last, upon a border of mashed potatoes, and have ready a quart of very nice Brussel sprouts dressed à la maître d’hôtel (No. 1083), which dress in pyramid in the centre. This dish can only be served in the autumn season of the year, as it is only then both vegetables can be obtained.

No. 1075. Peas.

The best of all green vegetables, and the delight of millions, whilst their profusion renders them attainable by all; like the asparagus, they belong to that season of flavour, the spring of the year, but remain in season till a much later period; when young the English method of cooking them is good, because the more succulence there is in a vegetable the less zest they require to make them palatable. To describe the different sorts would be almost an endless, and to a certain extent a useless task, but the Prussian blues are, in my opinion, the very best; to plain boil them, have two quarts of fresh-shelled peas, with a sprig of young mint, about ten leaves (the greatest fault with most people is putting too much), have a gallon of water boiling upon the fire, in which you have put two ounces of salt, when boiling put in your peas, let them boil as fast as possible from ten to fifteen minutes, try whether they are tender, if so strain them through a cullender, dress them upon your dish with two pats of butter upon the top and serve; or when drained put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a good teaspoonful of powdered sugar, place over a fire, and keep tossing them until the butter is melted, dress them either plain upon your dish or in a bread croustade.

No. 1076. Pois au sucre Anglo-Français.

When you have boiled and drained two quarts of young peas, put them in a stewpan with six young green onions in a bunch, six spoonfuls of white sauce, a little pepper and salt, and two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, let simmer ten minutes, then stir in a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, do not let them boil, but when the sauce becomes thickish and hangs to the peas turn them out upon your dish and serve, previously taking out the onions.

No. 1077. Pois au sucre à la Française.

The manner of dressing peas directed in the last keeps them very green, which the French style does not, unless very young, but to balance, their flavour is superior; and although the eye must be pleased to a certain extent, my principal business is with the palate.

Put two quarts of young peas in a good-sized stewpan with six young onions, a bunch of parsley, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; just cover the peas with cold water and rub them well together with the hands, pour off all the water, add a good bunch of parsley, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a teaspoonful of salt; set the stewpan upon a sharp fire, moving them round very often, if young twenty minutes is quite sufficient, but when tender they are done (if they should become too dry add a very little water), when done take out the onions and the bunch of parsley; you have previously mixed a tablespoonful of flour with two ounces of fresh butter, mix well with the peas, stir them over the fire till they become thickish, then add a liaison of two yolks of eggs (mixed with half a pint of milk or cream), season a little more if required, stir the liaison in quickly, do not let it boil, and when it thickens they are ready to serve, they must not, however, be too thick or too thin.

No. 1078. French Beans.

Cut enough young beans into strips to make a good flanc dish; have a stewpan with a gallon of water in which you have put a quarter of a pound of salt, when boiling put in the beans, which boil very fast till tender; when done strain them off, lay a bed of them upon your dish, upon which lay two pats of butter, sprinkle them over with pepper and salt, then more beans, proceeding thus till you have formed a pyramid, serve very hot.

No. 1079. Haricots verts sauté au buerre.

When boiled as above, put them in a stewpan with six ounces of fresh butter, season with a little chopped parsley, sugar, pepper, and salt; toss them over a sharp fire, and when quite hot dress them in pyramid.

No. 1080. Haricots verts aux fines herbes.

Boil the beans as before, when boiled put two spoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, pass them a few minutes over the fire, keeping them quite white, add a spoonful of flour (stir well in) and a pint of good white stock, boil until it adheres to the back of a spoon; then add your beans, toss them well together, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, a little pepper, salt, and sugar, finish with six pats of butter, and four spoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), dress them as high as possible upon the dish, or in a croustade of bread.

No. 1081. Haricots verts à la Poulette.

Boil the beans as before, when done drain them quite dry, put them into a stewpan with three parts of a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 7), six spoonfuls of stock, pepper, salt, sugar, a bunch of green onions, and parsley; stew gently ten minutes, take out the bunch, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream, stir in quickly, and when it begins to thicken serve as in the last.

No. 1082. Brussels Sprouts sauté au beurre.

The small firm ones are the best; boil a sufficient quantity in salt and water about twenty minutes, or till tender, as directed for the beans; when done put them in a stewpan, with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, and the juice of a lemon, when quite hot dress them as high as possible upon your dish.

No. 1083. Brussels Sprouts à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Boil a sufficient quantity of sprouts as before, and dress them upon your dish in pyramid; then put a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, let boil, and whilst boiling add a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), stir it in quickly and sauce over, or sauce them in layers as you dress them up.

No. 1084. Choux de Bruxelles à la Crème en turban de Concombres.

Make a turban of cucumbers, cut and dressed as directed (No. 103), form the turban upon a border of mashed potatoes; boil sufficient Brussel sprouts, which dress in pyramid, sauce over the cucumbers with a good sauce Hollandaise (No. 66), and over the sprouts with a good sauce béchamel (No. 7), but not too thick, so that the Brussel sprouts may show through it; they may likewise be dressed in a border of Jerusalem artichokes, which gives a great variety to those favourite vegetables; peas and French beans may also be dressed in a turban of the above description.

No. 1087. Spinach

Is a very wholesome and digestible vegetable, excellent for invalids, but still more so for those in good health, because an invalid can only have it plain-dressed, whilst a person in health can enjoy it in any of the tasty ways in which it is dressed. Pick and wash it very clean in three or four waters, for as nothing is worse than spinach when gritty, so likewise there is nothing more troublesome to get quite clean, from its growing so near the earth; boil in plenty of salt and water about a quarter of an hour, then drain it through a sieve, and squeeze quite dry with a cloth, chop very fine (which I consider is better than passing through a wire sieve), put it in a stewpan with half a pound of fresh butter, pepper, salt, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little grated nutmeg, stir five minutes over a sharp fire, pour it out upon your dish, and serve with croutons of fried bread round; the above proportion is for half a sieve.

No. 1088. Epinards au jus.

Proceed exactly as above, adding half a tablespoonful of flour, and when well mixed half a pint of good demi-glace (No. 9), glaze the croutons which you garnish with and serve.

No. 1089. Epinards à la Française.

When your spinach is well chopped put it into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, stir over the fire till quite hot, then add a tablespoonful of flour; season with a little pepper, salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg, mix well, then add half a pint of good stock, stir ten minutes over the fire, add a quarter of a pound more butter, after taking it from the fire; when melted pour it out upon your dish and serve as before. The old system was to make a roux, which frequently got rather overdone, and gave the spinach more the flavour of sauce, thus destroying the aroma; but the flour, if added proportionably, gives no flavour, and slightly thickens.

No. 1090. Epinards au sucre.

Prepare the spinach as before and put it into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter and a little pepper and salt; when quite hot add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of milk, boil a few minutes, and when ready to serve stir in a quarter of a pound of butter and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, serve as before.

No. 1091. Endive au jus.

In France this vegetable (which is mostly used in England for salads) is as popular for entrées and entremets as spinach, its bitterness rendering it very wholesome. Procure twelve heads, pick off all the green leaves, wash each head in two or three waters, and boil them in salt and water till tender, then put them in a basin of cold water, press every one; cut off the roots and chop the remainder fine, but not quite so fine as spinach, put it in a stewpan, place over the fire, and stir until becoming rather dry; then add half a pint of good brown sauce, and a piece of veal glaze the size of a walnut, season with a little pepper, salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg, and dress in a croustade of bread, or within a border of croutons of fried bread, which you have stuck upright upon your dish with a stiffish paste made from whites of eggs and flour; put the dish in the oven till the paste is set, and if desired, serve poached eggs upon the top.

No. 1092. Sorrel.

Is more used as a sauce for entrées than as an entremet, the spring of the year is the only time it can be used for second course; pick and well wash a sufficient quantity of sorrel, drain and put it into a stewpan without any water, stir over the fire till it is melted, then lay it upon the back of a hair sieve, and with a wooden spoon rub it through into a dish; then put it into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter and a spoonful of flour, mix well, season with a little pepper and salt, and half a pint of good stock, let boil; then take it from the fire and stir in four new-laid eggs separately, stirring a minute over the fire after each, then add three pats of butter, and serve as in the last, or in a deep silver dish, with eight poached eggs upon the top, or use for entrées if required.

No. 1091. Laitue braisée à la Pensionnaire.

Procure twenty fine young cabbage-lettuces, pick off some of the outside leaves, wash the lettuces well, and blanch them in plenty of water till tender, then throw them into cold water, press in a cloth; tie up, put them in a stewpan with a little good stock, and braise in a moderate oven or over a moderate fire half an hour, then take them out and drain them upon a cloth, turn half the point of the green leaf over to give an oval shape, arrange them in a sauté-pan, cover with a good demi-glace (No. 9), and put them into the oven; poach twelve eggs, then make a border of mashed potatoes upon your dish, upon which dress the eggs and lettuces alternately, showing a little of the white, sauce over with a good sauce fines herbes (No. 26) and serve.

No. 1094. Laitues farcis.

Prepare twenty fine lettuces, blanch them ten minutes in boiling water, throw them in cold water, press them in a cloth, then take out some of the interior, and fill with some forcemeat (No. 120) with which you have mixed some chopped parsley and mushrooms; tie them up and braise as above three quarters of an hour, take them up, drain, and serve with a sauce demi-glace (No. 9) over them.

No. 1095. Fèves de Marais.

When young are very delicate, take two quarts directly they are shelled and boil them nearly ten minutes in salt and water, try if done, drain them upon a sieve, then put them in a stewpan, pour half a pint of good sauce maître d’hôtel (No. 43) over, and add a little chopped tarragon and powdered sugar, and serve. They are also very good plain boiled, with a few pats of butter laid over them.

No. 1096. White Haricots Beans.

There is perhaps no white vegetable more in vogue in France than this, but although so well appreciated there and eaten by many English gourmets, they never think of having them dressed at home; it is true that the haricot in France is what the potato is in England, when in their prime and just taken from their shells, there are a great many epicures who would not dine without them. The reason I so strongly recommend them is because I have seen thousands of them in noblemen’s gardens, many of which are quite spoiled, and some dried for the winter season, when they might be dressed and eaten in their prime; I think, however, that when my readers know the simplicity of dressing them, and their moderate expense, they will at least give them a trial. They are very numerous about the month of September, but when old and dry I do not recommend them, they being very hard of digestion, and only fit to be used dry as directed in other parts of this work.

Have one quart of them fresh shelled, have also two quarts of water boiling, in which you have put two ounces of butter and a little salt, put in your beans and boil them about half an hour, or till tender, drain quite dry upon a sieve, then put them in another stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little pepper and salt, toss them a few minutes over the fire, and when very hot turn them out upon your dish and serve.

No. 1097. Haricots blancs à la Brétonne.

Boil the beans as in the last, then put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, stir over the fire till they become rather yellowish, then add half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; boil a few minutes, then add the beans, drain quite dry, season rather high, and when quite hot pour them upon your dish and serve.

No. 1098. Haricots blancs à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Boil the beans as before, and when done drain quite dry and put them into a stewpan with six ounces of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79); toss them over, add a little more seasoning if required, and serve when quite hot. They may also be served plain boiled with a little butter upon them.

No. 1099. Tomates au gratin.

Take ten fine tomatas not too ripe, cut a little from the top of each, press out the pips and juice, but do not break the skins or press away any of the flesh; fill the interior with a sauce as directed for artichauts à la barigoule (No. 1072), stand them in a sauté-pan, egg and bread-crumb all over, stand them in a hot oven a quarter of an hour, salamander of a good colour, and dress them pyramidically upon your dish.

No. 1100. Tomates à la Piémontaise.

Proceed as above, but using a little garlic (scraped) in the sauce, likewise put a little salad-oil in the sauté-pan which serve under them.

No. 1101. Mushrooms plain broiled.

Choose them rather large and black underneath, peel the skin from the top, and broil over a sharp fire, seasoning with pepper and salt; when done, place a small piece of butter upon each and serve; ten minutes is sufficient time to broil good-sized ones.

No. 1102. Mushrooms farcis.

Procure twelve middling-sized mushrooms, scoop out part of the interior, make a good sauce aux fines herbes (No. 26) very thick, to which add the interior of the mushrooms, and a few bread-crumbs; fill your mushrooms, egg and bread-crumb over, place them in a sauté-pan in the oven twenty minutes, salamander a light colour and serve on a napkin.

No. 1103. Croute aux champignons.

Procure a very fresh pottle of white mushrooms, which peel and trim, pass a few chopped onions in a stewpan with a small piece of butter (do not let them get brown), add a pint of sauce béchamel (No. 7); when boiling put in the mushrooms (raw), let simmer half an hour, season with a little salt, pepper, and sugar, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, move round over the fire till it thickens, dress them upon your dish in the crust of a French roll, scooped out and fried for that purpose, and sauce over.

No. 1104. Young Carrots in their glaze.

Scrape forty young carrots, which put into a stewpan with a teaspoonful of sugar, four young onions, a bunch of parsley, and a bay-leaf; just cover with a good white stock and stew till the carrots are tender, then take them out and dress in the form of a dome by sticking them into mashed potatoes; strain the stock they were stewed in through a napkin into a stewpan, add to it half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add two pats of butter, sauce all over and serve.

No. 1105. Young Turnips in their glaze.

Proceed exactly as for the carrots, only using white sauce instead of brown, and finishing with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a spoonful of cream.

No. 1106. Oignons Printaniers au Sirop dorée.

Peel about forty spring onions, each about the size of a walnut, put them into a stewpan, with one ounce of butter and one of powdered sugar, toss them occasionally over the fire, (but be careful not to break the outer skin,) until covered with a light glaze; cover with a white stock and stew very gently till quite done, drain them upon a cloth, dress neatly upon a border of mashed potatoes, reduce and skim the stock till nearly a glaze, add two pats of butter, sauce over and serve.

No. 1107. Macédoine de Légumes Printanières.

Stew ten onions, ten carrots, and ten turnips, as directed in the preceding articles, dress them upon a border of mashed potatoes in three separate rows, have ready a white macédoine de légumes (No. 98), in which you have introduced some peas and asparagus heads nicely blanched, which dress in the centre as high as possible, and sauce over the vegetables with their stock reduced to a thin glaze.

No. 1108. Pommes de Terre a la Maître d’Hôtel.

For dressing in sauce there is no potato to equal the French red kidney potato, which will keep as it is cut, whilst a round mealy potato would crumble to pieces, but being rather difficult to procure obtain some waxy kidney potatoes, which boil and stand by to get cold, then peel and cut them in slices, which put in a stewpan, with a little pepper, salt, and about half a pint of stock, set them upon the fire, let them boil two or three minutes, then add (if a sufficient quantity for a flanc dish) three quarters of a pound of fresh butter, keep shaking the stewpan round over the fire till the butter is melted, it will thus form its own sauce, finish with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and the juice of a lemon, turn out upon your dish and serve. The potatoes require to be cut in slices the size of a halfpenny, but double the thickness; if not able to obtain the proper potatoes use melted butter instead of stock to boil them in, or having no consistence they would form a purée.

No. 1109. Pommes de Terre sautées au beurre.

Cut your potatoes after boiling them as above, put half a pound of butter in a sauté-pan, let it melt, then put in the potatoes, fry a light yellow colour, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; dress them upon a napkin and serve.

No. 1110. Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise.

Cut your potatoes as above, then put three quarters of a pound of butter in a sauté-pan, with thirty button onions cut in rings, place them upon the fire and when becoming yellowish put in your potatoes, season with chopped parsley, salt, lemon-juice, and a good pinch of black pepper; when rather yellow and quite hot, serve.

No. 1111. Lentilles

Are only used in the winter, they are dried; put one quart of them in warm water, and let them soak two hours, then put them in a stewpan, with three quarts of water, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little salt, let them simmer two hours, but they may require either more or less time, as that depends entirely upon the quality, there being two sorts, the smaller ones being the best. This perhaps is the only dish of vegetables that we have inherited from the ancients. Century after century have they been in vogue; they are mentioned in Scripture, and several of our great masters have immortalized that ancient dish in some of their most celebrated pictures; although not much in vogue in England, in France and upon the continent they are much used, especially in Lent. When boiled tender drain them upon a sieve, put them into a stewpan, with a little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and a quarter of a pound of butter, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour; keep tossing them over upon a sharp fire, and when quite hot dress in a croustade or within a border of mashed potatoes, as they would not look well dressed flat.

No. 1112. Lentilles à la Comte au riz.

Cook your lentils as above, then put four pats of butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, pass them a few minutes over the fire, then add half a tablespoonful of flour, mix well and moisten with a little of the liquor from the lentils, boil two minutes keeping it stirred, then add your lentils and a little chopped parsley, boil altogether and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, stir in quickly and when it thickens serve as in the last.

No. 1113. Truffles.

Périgord is the only place renowned throughout the world as the favourite soil for this recherché vegetable, and our celebrated diplomatist, Talleyrand de Périgord, was indeed a worthy owner, for he was not only a great diplomatist but likewise a great gourmet. Having an interview with any distinguished personage upon any question of political importance, after patiently hearing, his usual reply was, I will consider of it after dinner; perhaps your excellency will favour me with a call to-morrow morning;--and ringing the bell often call for his bill of fare and order some of his most favourite dishes. But in eulogizing Talleyrand and the produce of his estate I must not forget to mention that the truffles of Piedmont though partly white are very excellent, likewise in Burgundy, and many very good ones are now found in the southern counties of England, especially in Hampshire, but none are equal to those from Périgord. The white are dressed the same as the black.

No. 1114. Truffes au vin de Champagne.

Soak twelve large truffles in lukewarm water two hours, then with a rather hard scrubbing-brush clean them well in two or three waters, picking the dirt from the eyes with a small pointed knife, when thoroughly clean cover the bottom of a stewpan with slices of fat bacon, one carrot, one turnip, two onions, (cut in slices,) a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, six cloves, and one blade of mace, put in the truffles, which half cover with some good white stock, let simmer half an hour, then add half a pint of champagne, simmer another half hour, but be sure the cover of the stewpan fits tight, take off the stewpan and surround it with ice with a weight upon the cover; when quite cold drain and serve upon a napkin. None but the black truffles ought to be dressed in the above manner. I generally serve their liquor, which is excellent, in a sauce-boat with them. Season a little more if required.

No. 1115. Croute aux Truffes.

Wash them as in the last and peel lightly with a knife, cut them into thin slices, put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, then your truffles, which season rather highly with pepper, salt, and two glasses of sherry, set them over a slow fire, turning them over occasionally; when tender and becoming glazy add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9), shake all round together over the fire a few minutes, add a little sugar, and serve them over four crusts, thus: cut two French rolls in halves lengthwise, scoop out the crumb, butter the crusts and broil them, glaze, lay them upon your dish and pour the truffles over.

No. 1116. Truffes en croustade à l’Italienne.

Cut and fry a very pretty croustade of bread, dress it upon your dish, sauté your truffles as in the last, pour them into the croustade and sauce over with a white Italienne sauce (No. 31).

No. 1117. Truffes demi Piémontaise.

Procure some truffles as large as possible, wash and peel as before, cut them in slices and put them into a sauté-pan, with six tablespoonfuls of salad oil, fry very gently, add two pieces of bruised garlic, a glass of sherry, and six spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), mix altogether well, boil gently, add a little sugar and juice of lemon, and serve them in your dish upon a piece of toasted bread.

No. 1118. Truffes à la Dino.

If you should have some of the truffes au vin de champagne left from a previous dinner, scoop out the interior so as to leave them quite shells, chop what you have taken from them rather coarse, with a few mushrooms, mix them with a quarter of a pound of forcemeat of fowl (No. 122), season well, and fill each truffle with it, egg them all over and cover with some chopped truffles, braise them slowly in some good stock for one hour, and serve with a sauce à la purée de truffes (No. 53) under them.

No. 1119. Omelette aux fines herbes.

Break eight eggs in a stewpan, to which add a teaspoonful of very finely chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, half ditto of salt, a pinch of pepper, and three good tablespoonfuls of cream, beat them well together, then put two ounces of butter in an omelette pan, stand it over a sharp fire, and as soon as the butter is hot pour in the eggs, stir them round quickly with a spoon until delicately set, then shake the pan round, leave it a moment to colour the omelette, hold the pan in a slanting position, just tap it upon the stove to bring the omelette to a proper shape, and roll the flap over with a spoon, turn it upon your dish, glaze lightly, and serve with a quarter of a pint of good demi-glace (No. 9) round; omelettes must not be too much done, and must be served as soon as done.

No. 1120. Omelette au Jambon.

Break eight eggs, season, beat and fry as above, but adding two ounces of lean cooked ham, minced and chopped with the eggs, and using but half the quantity of salt, glaze and sauce round precisely as above.

No. 1121. Omelette aux Truffes.

Make an omelette as for fines herbes, with the addition of two preserved truffles chopped very fine, have also three middling-sized truffles cut in slices, reduce half a pint of sauce demi-glace (No. 9) one third, add a little sugar and the truffles, boil three minutes, have the omelette fried in the pan, and when just ready to turn out upon the dish, put the truffles in the centre, with some of the sauce, turn the flap over with a spoon, turn on to your dish, glaze, and pour the remainder of the sauce round.

No. 1122. Omelette aux Champignons.

Proceed exactly as for the last, merely substituting mushrooms for the truffles.

No. 1123. Omelette aux Olives.

Boil half a pint of sauce demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, reduce it one third, then add twelve stoned olives, and a little sugar; make an omelette as for fines herbes, put the olives in the interior, glaze, and sauce round.

No. 1124. Omelette à la Jardinière.

Prepare rather more than half a pint of sauce à la jardinière (No. 100), have it hot in a stewpan, then make an omelette as before, and when ready to turn upon your dish put some of the sauce in the centre; glaze the omelette, pour the remainder of the sauce round, and serve.

No. 1125. Omelette aux Huîtres.

Put half a pint of good oyster sauce (No. 69) in a stewpan, let it be well seasoned, reduce it one third, add twelve or sixteen blanched oysters, let boil up, then stir in a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream; do not let it boil; when it thickens have an omelette as in the last; pour the sauce over, glaze, and serve.

No. 1126. Omelette aux filets de Soles.

Put half a pint of good thick oyster sauce in a stewpan upon the fire; you have previously filleted a middling-sized sole, cut each fillet into six or eight small pieces, and when the sauce boils throw them in, boil three minutes, finish the sauce with a liaison, and proceed as in the last.

No. 1127. Omelettes aux Moules.

Proceed exactly as for omelette aux huîtres, but using muscles and sauce (see No. 70) instead of oysters.

No. 1128. Omelette de Homard.

Make about half a pint of nice red lobster sauce (No. 68), into which put the flesh of a small lobster cut in dice; when hot have ready an omelette as before, put some of the sauce in the interior, turn out upon your dish, glaze, and pour the remainder of the sauce round.

No. 1129. Omelette au Sucre.

Break eight eggs into a stewpan, into which put a teaspoonful of sugar and four tablespoonfuls of cream; put two ounces of butter in an omelette-pan when quite hot, but not discoloured, pour in the eggs, and proceed as for the omelette aux fines herbes (No. 1119), turn out upon your dish, shake some powdered sugar over, salamander a nice colour, and serve.

No. 1130. Omelette au Confiture.

Make an omelette precisely as in the last, and just before turning it upon your dish put two or three spoonfuls of jam or marmalade in the centre, sugar over, salamander, and serve.

No. 1131. Omelette au Rhum.

The same as the last, but the moment of going to table pour three glasses of rum round and set it on fire.

Sweet omelettes may also be served with apricots passed in sugar or rhubarb, as directed in Nos. 1142, 1184; for the remainder of entremets of eggs, see Kitchen at Home.

ENTREMETS.

Observations upon Pastry.

Although the art of making pastry is very nearly as old as the world, having been the delight of the ancients, and of the sensual inhabitants of Asia, it is only within the last twenty years that it has attained any degree of perfection, which is partly due to the talent and intelligence of my illustrious compatriot and confrère, CAREME, who has left little or no room for innovation in that vast field of culinary delight; but I shall endeavour as much as possible to simplify the present excellent system, and introduce as much novelty as I can into that department, which is considered the greatest ornament of the second course; I must here likewise observe that as ages change so also do the fashions. Fifteen years ago large ornamental pieces, (or pièces montées,) were very much in vogue, but at the present time I know many epicures that would object to sit down before those once favorite monuments, or colossal sugar ornaments, the modern table embellishments having very properly fallen into the hands of the silversmith. Simplicity, the mother of elegance, being now the order of the day.

Of different sorts of Paste.

The variety of pastes is to the pastry what first stocks are to soups and sauces, and must be very properly first described, particularly as it is here to which I must refer my readers for paste even used for the hors-d’œuvres and entrées; to succeed you must be particular in your proportions, and very careful in the mixing, for although there is nothing more simple if pains be taken, so will the least neglect produce a failure, nor is it only with the making of the paste that pains must be taken, but likewise with the baking, for as paste badly made would not improve in baking, neither will paste, however well made, be good if badly baked; should the oven be too hot the paste would become set and burn before it was done; and, again, if too cold it would give the paste a dull heavy appearance, but an oven properly heated (which can be readily known by a little attention on the part of those in the habit of using it) will give it a clear brilliant appearance.

For every description of pastry made from puff paste, try if the oven is hot by placing your hand about half way in, and hold it there about a quarter of a minute, if you can hold it there that time without inconvenience it would not be hot enough, but if you cannot judge of the heat, the safest method would be, try a piece of the paste previous to baking the whole; I apply these few observations to all my readers, but particularly to the uninstructed, as a person of continual practice cannot fail to be aware of the truth of them.

No. 1132. Puff Paste.

Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre in which put the yolk of one egg and the juice of a lemon, with a pinch of salt, mix it with cold water (iced in summer, if convenient) into a softish flexible paste, with the right hand dry it off a little with flour until you have well cleared the paste from the slab, but do not work it more than you can possibly help, let remain two minutes upon the slab; then have a pound of fresh butter from which you have squeezed all the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to the same consistency as the paste, upon which place it; press it out with the hand, then fold the paste in three so as to hide the butter, and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, thus making it about two feet in length, fold over one third, over which again pass the rolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus forming a square, place it with the ends top and bottom before you, shaking a little flour both under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as before; flour a baking-sheet, upon which lay it, upon ice or in some cool place (but in summer it would be almost impossible to make this paste well without ice) for half an hour, then roll twice more, turning it as before, place again upon the ice a quarter of an hour, give it two more rolls, making seven in all, and it is ready for use when required, rolling it whatever thickness (according to what you intend making) directed in the following receipts. When I state that upwards of a hundred different kinds of cakes may be made from this paste, I am sure it will be quite sufficient to urge upon every cook the necessity of paying every attention to its fabrication, as it will repay for the study and trouble.

No. 1133. Puff Paste with Beef Suet.

Where you cannot obtain good butter for making paste, the following is an excellent substitute: skin and chop one pound of kidney beef suet very fine, put it into a mortar and pound it well, moistening with a little oil, until becoming as it were one piece, and about the consistency of butter, proceed exactly as in the last using it instead of butter.

No. 1134. Half Puff Paste.

Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab with two ounces of butter, rub well together with the hands, make a hole in the centre, in which put a pinch of salt and the yolk of an egg with the juice of a lemon; mix with water as before, then roll it out thin and lay half a pound of butter (prepared as for puff paste) rolled into thin sheets over, fold it in three, roll and fold again twice over, lay it in a cold place a quarter of an hour, give another roll and it is ready for use where required; this paste is mostly used for fruit tarts, for which it is well adapted.

No. 1135.[13] Pâte à dresser.

Put three pounds of the best flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put a pound of butter, half an ounce of salt, and the yolks of six eggs; the butter must not be too firm, add half a pint of water, squeeze all well together with your hand, mixing the flour in by degrees, tearing well to pieces with the right hand, holding it with the left until it forms a smooth but stiffish paste, but if so stiff that you cannot work it without cracking, press out flat with your hand, sprinkle water upon it, fold over, press out again, proceeding in like manner until you have obtained the consistency required; you must also be careful not to make it too soft, as in either case you would not be able to use it. This paste must not be too much worked after it is mixed or it would become greasy; more care must be exercised in summer than in winter in this respect, it is used for raised pies either hot or cold.

No. 1136. Pâte fine or Pâte à foncer.

Put three pounds of best flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, six eggs, and sufficient water to form it into a rather stiffish paste (it will require about half a pint), mix well together, drawing in the flour by degrees; when well mixed, roll out four times as for puff paste, let remain half an hour and it is ready for use where directed.

No. 1137. Pâte d’Office or Confectioner’s Paste.

Weigh one pound and a half of flour, which put upon your slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put one pound of sifted sugar, mix it well with twelve eggs into a stiffish paste, having first well dissolved the sugar with the eggs, work it well, it is then ready for use.

This paste was very much used when pièces montées were so much in vogue, but in the several receipts in which it is referred to, it is used upon quite a new principle, and very much simplified; this paste, with the above proportions, ought to be very stiff, but still pliable enough to be worked without breaking; should it be too stiff add more eggs, or too soft more flour, the half or quarter of the above quantity may of course be made.

No. 1138. Pâte d’Amande.

Blanch a pound of almonds, put one fourth of them into a mortar, pound well, moistening with a little water to prevent them oiling; when pounded to a paste take it out, add another fourth, and proceed in like manner till they are all done, then rub them through a hair sieve and put them into a preserving pan with one pound and a half of sifted sugar, set over a slow but equal fire, keep stirring for about five-and-twenty minutes, clearing it from the sides of the pan, press with your finger and if it feels tough take it out and put in the mortar with the eighth of an ounce of gum tragacanth, soaked and squeezed through a napkin; add the juice of a lemon, and pound well together till quite cold, it is then ready for use, but if not used directly roll it up in a ball and place it upon a plate under a basin to keep moist, it will keep for weeks if moist. Of this paste you can form stands, or convert it into any ornament your fancy may direct. Low stands are the best for entremets, being much better than the old-fashioned ones, that were made eight or ten inches in height, and when a jelly or cream served upon it was cut even by the most experienced person as soon as the first spoonful was taken the remainder was often seen dancing upon the table, to the horror of all persons of good taste. For myself I never use anything of the description, except for cold luncheon or supper, and even then of the most simple construction.

No. 1139. Pastillage or Gum Paste.

Put two ounces of gum tragacanth into a small basin, pour a quart of filtered water over it, and cover the basin with a sheet of paper to keep it free from dust; let soak twenty-four hours, then pour off the water and place the gum in a strong cloth, through which squeeze it on to a plate, not leaving a particle in the cloth; then place it upon your pastry slab, work it round with your hand until as white as cream, have an equal quantity of starch-powder, and powdered sugar, which you have passed through a silk sieve, work it in by degrees, keeping it well worked with the hand until it becomes a stiffish paste, firm enough to roll and cut into any shape required. It may be used instead of pâté d’amande.

No. 1140. Vol-au-Vents

Of all things in pastry require the most care and precision; they that can make a good vol-au-vent may be stamped as good pastrycooks, although many variations in working puff paste, all others are of a secondary importance. Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) giving it only six rolls and a half instead of seven, leave it an inch in thickness, make a mark upon the top either round or oval, and according to the size of your dish, then with a sharp-pointed knife cut it out from the paste, holding the knife with the point slanting outwards; turn it over, mark the edges with the back of your knife, and place it upon a baking sheet, which you have sprinkled with water; egg over the top, then dip the point of the knife into hot water, and cut a ring upon the top a quarter of an inch deep, and half an inch from the edge of the vol-au-vent, set in a rather hot oven, if getting too much colour cover over with a sheet of paper, do not take it out before done, or it would fall, but when quite set cut off the lid and empty it with a knife; if for first course it is ready, but if for second, sift sugar all over, which glaze with the salamander. Regulate the thickness of the paste from which you cut the vol-au-vent, according to the size you require it, the smaller ones of course requiring thinner paste. A vol-au-vent for entrées will take about half an hour to bake, and as the common iron ovens often throw out more heat upon one side than the other, it will require turning two or three times to cause it to rise equal; it ought to be when baked of a light gold colour.

No. 1141. Vol-au-vent de Pêches.

Put three quarters of a pound of sugar in a sugar-pan, with the juice of a lemon and about half a pint of water, place it upon the fire and boil till becoming a thickish syrup; then have twelve peaches not quite ripe, which cut in halves, break their stones and blanch the kernels, throw six halves with the kernels into the syrup, boil three minutes, take them out with a skimmer, lay them upon a dish and take off their skins, stew the rest in syrup in like manner, six at a time; when all done pour what liquor runs from them again into the syrup, which reduce to a good thickness, pass it through a tammie into a basin, when cold pour a little over the peaches and leave until ready to serve, dress the peaches in your vol-au-vent with the syrup over, served as a compote with small pastry around it; in stewing the fruit, be careful that it does not catch in the least, a round-bottomed pan or regular sugar-pan is the best to use for this purpose, but if not convenient a common stewpan may be used.

No. 1142. Vol-au-vent d’Abricots.

Cut twelve apricots, not quite ripe, in halves, break their stones and blanch their kernels, which with the apricots put into a sugar-pan with three quarters of a pound of lump sugar broken into small pieces, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry; stew them ten minutes over a quick fire, moving them round occasionally, then pour them into a basin, which stand upon the ice, when quite cold fill your vol-au-vent and serve; should the apricots be quite ripe, proceed as directed for the peaches, but leaving their skins on.

No. 1143. Vol-au-vent of Greengages.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only using twenty or twenty-four greengages instead of the apricots.

No. 1144. Vol-au-vent de Cerises.

Pick and stone four pounds of cherries, which put into a pan with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, stew them about twenty minutes over a sharp fire, moving them occasionally, place them upon the ice till cold, when fill your vol-au-vent and serve. Should the syrup be too thick, reduce it until thick enough to envelop the fruit.

No. 1145. Vol-au-vent de Poires.

Take twelve middling-sized ripe pears, which cut in halves, peel them neatly, and take out the cores; throw them into a pan, in which you have put the juice of two lemons, and the thin rind of one cut in thin strips and three quarters of a pound of sugar broken small; pass them over a sharp fire, moving them occasionally till tender, put them upon the ice to get cold; when ready, fill your vol-au-vent, and serve.

No. 1146. Vol-au-vent de Pommes.

Procure twenty small golden pippins, peel them neatly, and take out the cores with a long round vegetable cutter; rub them over with lemon, and stew till tender in syrup made from three quarters of a pound of sugar as for the peaches (No. 1141); when cold dress them as high as possible in a vol-au-vent, and when ready to serve, pour the syrup over.

No. 1147. Vol-au-vent d’Oranges.

Take ten fine oranges, cut them in halves, peel them, but not to lose their shapes, have a rather thicker syrup than usual, simmer the oranges five minutes, ten at a time, lay them upon a dish, reduce the syrup, and when cold dress in pyramid in a vol-au-vent, and pour the syrup over.

No. 1148. Gateau de Millefeuille à la Moderne.

Make a pound of puff paste, give it nine rolls, roll out to the thickness of two penny-pieces, from which cut ten round pieces, each about five inches in diameter, sprinkle water over two baking-sheets, upon which lay them, wet lightly with water, and sprinkle a little rough sugar over them, but not too coarse; bake very crisp in a moderate oven, keeping them as white as possible; when baked lay one upon your dish, which cover with apricot marmalade; then another, which cover with orange marmelade; then another, which cover with currant jelly, proceeding thus to the top; when finished mask the whole over with apricot marmalade, sprinkling plenty of very finely chopped pistachios round, and decorate the top with what dessert fruits you have in season, cherries, strawberries, or raisins, dressed in pyramid.

No. 1149. Turban à la Crème aux Macarons amers.

Give half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) ten rolls, and from it cut eight round pieces of the same size as in the last; then with the same cutter cut three pieces out of each in the form of middling-sized leaves, wet lightly upon the top, and dip them into some coarse sugar (pounded and sifted through a coarse wire sieve), place them upon a wet baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven as white as possible; then have ready a round board a quarter of an inch thick, and, according to the size of your dish, made of pâte d’office (No. 1137) and baked in a moderate oven; boil also half a pound of sugar au cassé (No. 1379), dip the ends of the pieces of pastry singly into it, and build them in crown upon the rim of your board, one row surmounted by another, dressed the reverse way; make a meringue mixture with two whites of eggs (see No. 1218), which lay in fillets, with a paper cornet upon the top; sprinkle over with some very green chopped pistachios, and set in a warm place to dry, but not any longer than necessary; whip a pint of good double cream very stiff, with which mix a little sugar, a quarter of a pound of crushed ratafias, and a glass of good noyeau; put the cream in the turban when ready to serve.

No. 1150. Puit de Fruit aux Blanches Couronnes.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) give it nine rolls, from it cut eight round pieces half an inch in thickness, then with a cutter, four sizes smaller, cut a piece from the centre of each, so as to form rings; place them upon a baking-sheet, wet the tops lightly, and sprinkle a little coarse sugar over; bake them in a moderate oven as white as possible, dress one upon the bottom of your dish, cover it with a sweetmeat of some description, and proceed in like manner to the top; fill with any of the fruits as described for the vol-au-vents, have a little cream whipped very stiff lay it in piping with a paper cornet, between each ring, and garnish the top tastefully with fillets of red currant jelly or green angelica.

No. 1151. Gateau de Pithiviers.

Blanch and pound well half a pound of almonds, moistening them with a little white of egg to keep them from oiling; put a quarter of a pound of butter in a basin, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, beat well together till it becomes smooth and creamy, then add the yolks of four eggs; beat two minutes longer, add the pounded almonds, with two ounces of crushed ratafias, and half a gill of whipped cream; you have previously made half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), divide it nearly in halves, having one piece larger than the other, mould them gently into two balls, roll out the smallest to the thickness of a penny, keeping it quite round, lay it upon a baking-sheet, put the above mixture in the centre, and spread it over, leaving the space of half an inch from the edge all round, roll out the other piece of paste rather larger and thicker than the former, wet the first sheet round the edges with a paste-brush, and cover the other over, closing it carefully, trim and notch round, egg over the top, and with the back of your knife sketch some design upon it; bake three quarters of an hour in a warm oven, but when the paste is sufficiently coloured, cover with a sheet of paper; when done sift a little sugar over, and glaze with the salamander.

The original cake is baked quite white by using water instead of eggs, and throwing sugar over; my objection to which is, that many people in this country, from its appearance, fancy it is not sufficiently baked, and must be indigestible; it may, however, be baked either way, according to fancy.

No. 1152. Tourte d’Entremet à la Crème.

Make a piece of paste thus: place six ounces of flour upon your slab, with three ounces of butter, rub well together, make a hole in the centre, in which put one egg, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a very little water, mix well together, then mix the whole into a stiffish paste; roll it out of the size and shape you want your tourte, and place it upon a baking-sheet, then have ready a pound of puff paste, roll it to about three quarters of an inch in thickness, cut out a piece exactly of the same size and shape as the other, cut out the centre, so as to leave a band of about an inch in breadth, wet the piece of paste upon the baking-sheet, and place the band upon it at the rim, pressing down lightly; egg it upon the top, but do not let it touch the side; mark round with the back of your knife every quarter of an inch, and fill the interior with frangipane (No. 1295), bake about half an hour in a warm oven, and serve when cold.

Should you require the tourte for a flanc instead of an entremet, you must roll the paste oval instead of round, and make a long band of puff paste, which lay round the rim, carefully joining it at each end, by cutting one end slantwise under, and the other over, making it of the same thickness; egg the band upon the top, but do not let it run over the edges previous to baking.

No. 1153. Tourte d’Entremet à la Marmelade de Pommes.

Prepare a sheet of paste upon a baking-sheet as before, in the centre of which put some apple marmalade (No. 1389) spread it within an inch and a half of the edges all round, roll out a piece of the trimmings of puff paste very thin, from which cut about forty narrow bands, wet the edges of the paste, and string the bands tastefully over the marmalade, forming diamond shapes; have ready a band of puff paste as in the last, which place round the apples, pressing it closely to the bottom sheet, egg the top, and bake as in the last; when done shake sugar over the top, and glaze lightly with the salamander.

No. 1154. Tourte d’Entremet au Confiture.

Prepare a sheet of paste upon your baking-sheet as before, in the centre of which put some apricot, greengage, or strawberry jam; roll out a very thin sheet of puff paste, wet the edges of the sheet, and cover over the jam, closing it down at the edges; trim it level, have ready a band of paste, as in the last, wet round, place the band round, press it close, then with a sharp-pointed knife make incisions upon the thin paste over the marmalade, cutting quite through, forming some fancy design, wet slightly, throw sugar over, egg the band upon the top, and bake as before.

No. 1155. Tartelettes pralinées aux Abricots.

Have ready buttered twelve or as many small tartelette pans as you may require, line each one with a piece of puff paste cut with a cutter of the same size as the pans, force up the edges with your thumb and finger, put a small ball (made of stiff flour and water paste) in each, and bake them nicely in a very hot oven; when done take out the little balls, turn the tartelettes upside down, shake powdered sugar over the bottom of each, and glaze with a salamander, turn them over, shake sugar in the interior, which also glaze with the salamander; you have previously chopped two ounces of almonds very fine, which put into a basin, with two ounces of sugar, and mix well with the white of an egg, spread a little upon the bottom of each tartelette, shake a little sugar over and place them in a slow oven to dry; when ready to serve put an apricot in each, stewed as for the vol-au-vent d’abricots (No. 1142). They may be served salamandered very crisp upon both sides, omitting the almonds.

No. 1156. Tartelettes de Pêches.

Make your tartelettes as in the last and fill with peaches dressed as for vol-au-vent (No. 1141).

No. 1157. Tartelettes aux Cerises.

Proceed as before, filling them when baked with cherries dressed as for the vol-au-vent (No. 1144).

No. 1158. Tartelettes aux Groseilles vertes.

Make the tartelettes as before, have ready three pints of young green gooseberries, which put into a sugar-pan with three quarters of a pound of lump sugar and half a wineglassful of water, place them over a sharp fire, moving them round occasionally till done, which you may ascertain by their shrivelled appearance, if too much done they will become quite brown, put them in a basin and leave them till quite cold, when fill the tartelettes and serve.

No. 1159. Tartelettes of Greengages.

Prepare your tartelettes as before and fill with greengages prepared as directed for the vol-au-vent (No. 1143).

No. 1160. Tartelettes aux Fraises.

Prepare the tartelettes as before, pick a fine pottle of strawberries, which put into a basin, with two ounces of powdered sugar and a little powdered cinnamon, shake them well together, fill the tartelettes and serve.

No. 1161. Tartelettes de Pommes.

Prepare the tartelettes as usual, and have ready prepared ten apples (golden pippins) cut each one in halves, take out the cores and peel them neatly, put the juice of a lemon in your sugar-pan into which throw them as you peel them; when they are all done add half a pound of lump sugar and a little thin lemon-peel cut in strips, stew them gently till tender and leave them to get cold in their syrup, then fill the tartelettes, half an apple in each, mix a little apricot marmalade with the syrup, pour a little over each and serve.

No. 1162. Tartelettes de Poires.

Prepare the tartelettes as before, then have eight or ten small ripe pears, cut them in halves and proceed precisely as with the apples in the last, serve the same.

No. 1163. Tartelettes of Cranberries.

Prepare the tartelettes as directed, then have ready three pints of cranberries which you have drained and stewed over a sharp fire, with one pound of lump sugar and two ounces of green angelica cut in fillets, until the syrup becomes very thick, place them upon the ice till cold, when fill the tartelettes and serve.

The cranberries sold in London I believe are from America; they are tolerably good, but nothing to compare to those I have used in Shropshire and Wales; they grow in that part of the country in meadows close to the water; upon my first going there I was quite unacquainted with the merit of this beautiful fruit, but soon perceived that very beautiful entremets might be made from them, besides plain tarts, for which they were daily used; their bitterness and peculiar wild flavour rendering them very palatable and wholesome. I have thought proper to make this remark, knowing that so few people are aware of their merit and that so many are actually spoilt for want of gathering.

No. 1164. Tartelettes d’Oranges.

Prepare the tartelettes as described, have eight oranges, peel and cut off the white pith and divide each orange into twelve pieces, make a syrup with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, reduce till rather thick, then throw in half the oranges, let them boil one minute, take them out, lay them upon a dish, and put in the remainder, stew one minute as before, reduce the syrup again, and when nearly cold pour it over the oranges; when ready fill your tartelettes and serve.

No. 1165. Fauchonettes à la Vanille.

Line eighteen tartelette pans with puff paste as for tartelettes, but do not work up the edges so high, have also a crème made in the following manner: put a pint of milk into a stewpan and when it boils put in a stick of vanille, and reduce the milk to half, in another stewpan have the yolks of three eggs, with an ounce and a half of powdered sugar and one of sifted flour, with a grain of salt, pour in the milk, taking out the vanille, place over a slow fire, keep stirring till it thickens; when cold fill the tartelettes and bake them nicely in a moderate oven, when baked and cold have ready a meringue mixture of four eggs, (see No. 1218,) a teaspoonful of which lay upon each, spreading it quite flat with a knife, make a ring of seven small button meringues round each upon the top with a larger one in the centre, sift sugar over and place them in a slow oven till of a light brown colour and the meringue quite crisp; to serve, dress them pyramidically upon your dish.

No. 1166. Dauphines.

Line eighteen tartelette-pans with puff paste, and place a small piece of apricot or other marmalade in the centre, which cover with a custard made as directed in the last, bake them in a moderate oven; when cold prepare a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of five eggs, with which form a very high pyramid upon the top of each tartelette, sift sugar over and place them in a slow oven to dry, keeping them very white; serve cold, dressed round upon a napkin.

No. 1167. Tartelettes à la Pompadour.

Line eighteen tartelette-pans with puff paste, have also eighteen pieces of brioche paste (No. 1321), each the size of a walnut, roll them out to the thickness of a penny-piece, keeping them round, place a piece of apricot or other marmalade in the centre, wet the paste, fold it over the marmalade to form a ball, and turn them over into your tartelettes, wet the tops, turn them over on some rough pounded sugar, place them upon a baking-sheet, bake in a moderate oven, dress pyramidically upon a napkin and serve quite hot.

No. 1168. Mirlitons aux Fleurs d’Orange.

Line about eighteen or twenty tartelette-pans with puff paste, then put an ounce of powdered candied orange-flowers in a basin, with a quarter of a pound of crushed maccaroons, a quarter of a pound of sugar, two yolks and two whole eggs, with a grain of salt, stir altogether, then add two ounces of fresh butter warmed and the whites of two eggs beat up very stiff, fill the tartelettes, sift sugar rather thickly over and bake them in a moderate oven.

No. 1169. Mirlitons aux Amandes.

Proceed exactly as in the last, using one ounce of bitter and one ounce of sweet almonds, blanched, dried, and pounded, and two ounces of maccaroons instead of a quarter of a pound, omitting the candied orange-flowers.

No. 1170. Mirlitons au Citron.

Proceed as for mirlitons aux fleurs d’orange, only rubbing the rind of a lemon upon the sugar previous to pounding it, and omitting the orange-flowers.

No. 1171. Petits Vol-au-vents à la Chantilly.

Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), when done roll it to about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and with a fluted cutter cut out twenty pieces rather larger than a penny-piece and with a plain round cutter the size of a halfpenny, cut a piece from the centre of each, leaving the rings, roll up the trimmings of the paste to the same thickness as before, from which cut twenty more pieces with the fluted cutter, sprinkle a baking-sheet with water, upon which lay them, wet lightly upon the top, and place the rings over very even, pressing them down gently, egg the tops and bake in a good oven; when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, whip half a pint of double cream, to which add a little sugar pounded, with a few candied orange-flowers; when the vol-au-vents are cold put a little marmalade in the bottom with the cream over and serve.

No. 1172. Petits Vol-au-vents aux Abricots.

Make the vol-au-vents as in the last, but when baked have a quarter of a pound of sugar boiled au cassé (No. 1379), dip the top of each of the vol-au-vents lightly into it, and immediately dip them in white sugar, in grains (that is, the sugar pounded and all the fine sifted from it, which again sift through a coarse wire sieve), when all done fill the centre with some good apricot marmalade, or small pieces of apricots, peaches, &c., as prepared for the large vol-au-vents.

No. 1173. Petits Vol-au-vents à la Gelée mousseuse.

Make the vol-au-vents as described in the last, but dipping them into red sugar in grains, (see No. 1375,) instead of white; when done put a pint of very good marasquino jelly into a bowl, melt it, place it upon the ice and keep whisking till set, it will be quite white and frothy, fill the vol-au-vents, and serve with a few drops of marasquino sprinkled over and a very fresh strawberry upon the top of each, or, if not in season, a brandied cherry.

No. 1174. Petits Puits aux Pistachios

Are made the same as the vol-au-vents; when baked dip the tops lightly into sugar as before, and dip them into chopped pistachios (very green) and sugar in grains, fill them with some whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar (No. 1377) and place a dried cherry upon the top.

No. 1175. Gateau fourré à la Crème.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), when done divide it into two parts, one a fourth larger than the other, roll them up into two balls gently, and roll the first into a sheet the thickness of a penny-piece, sprinkle a baking-sheet with a little water, upon which lay it, put some frangipane (No. 1295) in the centre, which spread to within half an inch of the edge all round, and three quarters of an inch in thickness, wet the edge lightly, then lay the other sheet of paste (which you have rolled into a sheet, thicker and larger than the first) over, close it well at the edges, egg it well over, trim round with your knife, sketch some design upon the top with the point of a knife, bake about three quarters of an hour in a moderate oven; when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander; when cold cut it into pieces two inches and a half in length and one in breadth; dress in crown upon a napkin or upon a border of apple marmalade.

No. 1176. Gateau fourré au Confiture.

Make half a pound of puff paste and proceed as in the last, spreading apricot, strawberry, or greengage jam about a quarter of an inch in thickness in the centre instead of the frangipane, finish as the last, but it will not take so long to bake, serve the same.

No. 1177. Gateau fourré, ou d’Artois, aux Pommes.

Peel and cut ten apples into slices, put them into a preserving-pan with two ounces of butter, six ounces of powdered sugar, some thin lemon-peel cut in strips, and a little powdered cinnamon, pass them over a sharp fire till tender, then take them off, mix four tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with them, and put by till cold; make half a pound of puff paste and proceed as before, using the above preparation instead of the sweatmeats before mentioned.

No. 1178. Gateau fourré Anglo-Français.

Put three ounces of ground rice in a stewpan with which mix gradually a pint of milk, stir over the fire till it thickens and the rice is done; you have pounded a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter with six ounces of sugar, put them in the stewpan with half an ounce of candied citron cut small and soaked in a glass of marasquino, which also put in, add five eggs, beat altogether, and stir over the fire till it again thickens, when cold proceed exactly as for the gateau fourré à la crème, substituting the above preparation for the frangipane.

No. 1179. Petits Gateaux fourrés au Confiture.

Prepare half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll into a long band three inches wide and nearly a quarter of an inch thick, have it upon your slab before you, then place rolls of jam an inch and a half in length, as thick as your little finger and two inches apart, in the centre; wet the edges all along and fold the paste over, press down with your finger round each piece of marmalade, cut them out with a knife, sprinkle a baking-sheet with water, upon which lay them; egg over, and with the point of a knife sketch a leaf upon each, cutting nearly through the paste, bake them nicely in a moderate oven, and when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, dress them round upon a border of apple marmalade when cold, or dress in pyramid. Any kind of sweetmeat may be used for these kinds of gateaux, but observe it requires to be very firm, for if soft it would run from the paste, and give them a bad appearance.

No. 1180. Petits Gateaux fourrés (round).

Make three quarters of a pound of puff paste, from which cut twelve pieces with a round cutter three inches and a half in diameter and the thickness of a penny-piece, then roll out the trimmings, from which cut twelve more pieces with a plain round cutter three inches in diameter, lay a small piece of the preparation of apple as for d’Artois (No. 1177) in the middle of the smaller sheets with a preserved cherry upon the top, wet round the edges lightly, then place the larger sheet over, press it well down upon the edges with the rim of the smaller cutter, with which also cut them round; wet lightly over and place a small ring upon the top, sprinkle white sugar in rather coarse grains over, and bake rather white in a moderate oven, when cold place a fine preserved cherry within each ring upon the top, and dress them in pyramid; they may likewise be made square or any other shape, by following the above directions, they may be made smaller if required.

No. 1181. Petits Gateaux fourrés aux Amandes.

Make the cakes exactly as above, blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, split each one in halves (wet the top of the cakes), and with them form a rosette, pressing them into the paste; place a ring of paste upon the top as before, sprinkle white sugar in grains over, bake them nearly white, when done fill the ring with red currant jelly, and when cold serve as before.

No. 1182. Petits Gateaux fourrés Meringué.

Make the cakes as before, but omitting the almonds, when baked and cold prepare a meringue mixture of three whites of eggs (see No. 1218), which put into a paper cornet, and with it pipe a rosette tastefully upon each gateau; throw pounded sugar over, shaking off all that does not adhere to them, place them in the screen to dry, when dry fill each cavity with currant, apple, or quince jelly, which will have a very pleasing effect. You may also form a rope round with meringues, which sprinkle with green and red sugar in grains (see No. 1375), filling the interior with jellies as before, they may be made oval also.

No. 1183. Patisserie d’Amandes à la Condé.

Make half a pound of puff paste, give it nine rolls, rolling it the last time to the thickness of a penny-piece, have ready blanched and chopped half a pound of sweet almonds, which put in a basin with half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, or little more if required, spread it over the paste the thickness of a shilling, and with a knife cut the paste into pieces two inches and a half in length and nearly one in breadth, place them upon a baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very light brown colour in a moderate oven, dress them in pyramid.

No. 1184. Turban de Condé à la Rhubarbe.

Dress some of the pastry as directed in the last, in a crown upon a border of apple marmalade, have ready a bundle of red forced rhubarb (very young), which put into a preserving-pan with one pound of powdered sugar and a wine-glassful of water, stew quickly over a sharp fire keeping it very red, the syrup must be very thick; when quite cold fill the centre of the turban and serve. Apricots, apples, pears, peaches, greengages, or any other fruits, dressed as for vol-au-vents, can be served in this manner.

No. 1185. Petits Gateaux d’Abricots.

Make three quarters of a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll it to the thickness of a penny-piece, and cut it into pieces three inches square, in the centre of which put a roll of apricot marmalade about two inches long and the thickness of your finger; wet the paste round lightly, and fold it over in the form of a book, egg over and bake them in a warm oven, when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, or they may be made in the shape of diamonds by cutting the paste into pieces of that form, and covering one over the other.

No. 1186. Petits Gateaux renversés.

Make half a pound of puff paste, roll it to the thickness of a halfpenny-piece, and with a round cutter cut out twenty-four pieces rather larger than a five-shilling piece, wet lightly and fold them over forming half circles, wet the top, dip into some coarse sugar in grains and bake on a baking-sheet in a moderate oven of a light colour, cut fillets of currant jelly, with which garnish by piping them in the separation with a paper cornet, and serve dressed in pyramid.

No. 1187. Petites Bouchées à la Patissière.

Make half a pound of puff paste, from which cut fifteen pieces the thickness of a penny-piece, with an oval fluted cutter two inches and a half in length and one and a half in breadth, wet them upon the top; then roll out the trimmings, from which cut twenty an inch in diameter, taking out the centre with a smaller cutter, thus forming them into rings, place them upon the top exactly in the centre, wet the rings lightly, dip the tops into some white sugar in grains, place them upon a baking-sheet, and bake them a light colour; when done fill the ring with a little currant or apple jelly, a dried cherry, or any description of preserve.

No. 1188. Eventail aux Cerises.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll to the thickness of half an inch, cut it in strips a quarter of an inch wide and three inches long, lay them upon their sides upon the baking-sheet, leaving them room to spread, bake in a moderate oven, when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, dress them in a crown upon a border of apple marmalade, with cherries in the centre dressed as for vol-au-vent (No. 1144).

No. 1189. Petits Gateaux à la Royale.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll to the thickness of a penny-piece, beat three quarters of a pound of finely sifted sugar in a basin with the whites of two eggs and a little lemon-juice; if too stiff add a little more white of egg, beat well, spread over the sheet of paste, and cut it into pieces three inches long and one broad, lay them upon your baking-sheet and bake in a slow oven.

There are likewise a great many small cakes which may be made from puff paste in all variety of forms, with different shaped cutters, and ornamented with different preserves, or meringued in any pattern or design you may fancy, but these must be left entirely to the taste.

No. 1190. A Flan of Puff Paste.

Make half a pound of puff paste, roll twelve times till nearly worn out, letting it remain some time on the slab before using; then have a plain round or oval flan mould,[14] butter the interior and line it with the paste about one third of an inch in thickness, place a sheet of white paper at the bottom and a band round the sides in the interior, which fill with bread-crumbs, bake in a warm oven rather crisp, take out, empty it of the bread-crumbs, and paper and turn it from your mould, sift sugar all over and glaze with the salamander, serve filled with any of the fruits dressed as directed for vol-au-vents. Should you have any trimmings of paste left from a previous day it may be used instead of making fresh.

No. 1191. Flan de Pommes à la Portugaise.

Make half a pound of flour into a fine paste (pâte fine, No. 1136), roll it into a sheet about eleven inches in diameter, work up the sides with your hands two inches in height, which crimp and ornament neatly with pâte d’office (No. 1137), or some of the same paste cut into small leaves, with which form a wreath or some other design, by wetting the flan round and sticking them upon it; then peel two dozen small apples (golden pippins), take the cores from fifteen of them with a long round cutter, make a syrup with half a pint of water, the juice of a lemon, and three quarters of a pound of sugar, reduce over a sharp fire till becoming thickish, put in the whole apples which stew gently till tender, then take them out, cut up the remainder, put them into the syrup and boil to a thickish marmalade; lay half the marmalade at the bottom of the flan, then the whole apples, and fill up with the marmalade not hiding the whole apples, put a band of buttered paper round and bake three quarters of an hour, when done take off the buttered paper and mask all over with apricot marmalade, serve either hot or cold.

No. 1192. Flan de Poires.

Make a crust the same as above, peel and cut in halves about two dozen very nice pears, put them into a preserving-pan with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and the rind of one, free from pith, cut into small strips; stew till tender, when cold place them in your flan with the syrup over, bake three quarters of an hour with a band of paper round, finish and serve as in the last.

Cherries, greengages, and apricots may also be used for the above purposes by following the same methods, dressing the fruit as for vol-au-vents.

No. 1193. Flanc à la Crème pralinée.

Prepare a crust as before, which fill with some frangipane (No. 1295), in which you have put six ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and chopped, put a band of paper round, bake three quarters of an hour, then take off the paper, wet the crust, sift sugar all over, and glaze with the salamander.

No. 1194. Pâté à Choux.

Put half a pint of water in a stewpan, with six ounces of butter, two ounces of sugar (pounded), with half a stick of vanille and a pinch of salt; when it begins to boil stir in three good spoonfuls of flour, keep stirring over the fire, keeping it cleared from the bottom of the stewpan, till becoming a toughish paste; take it off the fire, and stir in six or seven eggs one after the other, and work them well in; it is then ready; butter a baking-sheet and lay your paste upon it in round pieces nearly the size of a walnut,[15] egg over, and sprinkle white sugar in grains upon them, bake in a moderate oven, and when done and cold open a lid at the top, fill them with a jam or marmalade of some description, replace the lid, and serve dressed in pyramid upon a napkin. Half the quantity of this and following receipts may of course be made.

No. 1195. Petits Choux à la Crème.

Prepare your paste as in the last, place it in round balls upon your baking-sheet, egg over, sprinkle with sugar in grains, and bake them as in the last, then put two yolks of eggs in a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of sugar, a little chopped lemon-peel, and a few candied orange-flowers well pounded; mix well together, add a gill of boiling milk, stir over the fire till it thickens, place in a basin upon the ice, when cold, add a gill of whipped cream, mix well, fill your petits choux, and serve as in the last.

No. 1196. Petits Choux aux Amandes.

Proceed as above, but when they are baked cover lightly with a mixture of almonds and sugar, as directed for patisserie d’amandes (No. 1183); put them again in the oven till it has set and become crisp; when cold fill and serve as before.

No. 1197. Petits Choux à la Comtesse.

Prepare the paste as before, but lay it out upon your baking-sheet, in long pieces the size of your finger, egg and sugar over, bake as before, and when cold open them beneath and fill with the cream as above.

No. 1198. Petits Choux en Gimblettes.

Make the paste as before, lay it in larger round balls upon a buttered baking-sheet, dip the handle of your paste-brush into some egg, with which make a hole as large as a shilling in the centre of each, thus forming them into rings, each rather larger than a five-shilling piece; egg over, and sprinkle with sugar in grains and chopped pistachios mixed together; bake them as before, but in a slow oven; they do not require to be filled.

No. 1199. Petits Pains à la Crèmière.

Put half a pint of thin cream in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, two ounces of sugar, and a little salt; when boiling add three spoonfuls of flour; stir well over the fire, clearing it from the bottom till becoming toughish, then add six eggs, one at a time, which work in well; the paste requires to be rather firm; when cold put a little flour upon your pastry slab, upon which turn the paste; roll it out in pieces an inch and a half in length, make an incision down the centre with your knife, and lay them upon a baking-sheet, egg over, bake them in a warm oven; when done sift sugar over, and glaze with the salamander; serve dressed in pyramid, and very hot.

No. 1200. Madeline au vin de Ports.

Put half a pound of flour in a stewpan, with six ounces of sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, and a little orange-flour water; mix the whole well together with five eggs, butter a cylinder mould, put the paste into it, and bake of a nice gold colour in a moderate oven; put four glasses of port wine in a stewpan, with a little sugar, four cloves, and a little cinnamon; mix a teaspoonful of arrowroot with a glass of port wine cold, which stir in with the other in your stewpan, turn the madeline out upon your dish, pour the wine over, straining it through a sieve; when cold fill the centre with half a pint of whipped cream, flavoured with orange-flower-water, and serve.

They may also be made in smaller moulds, dressed in pyramid, with the sauce over.

No. 1201. Genoises.

Well pound two ounces of sweet almonds with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and pass them through a wire sieve; put them into a basin, with six ounces of flour and six eggs; beat well together, add a little salt, half a gill of whipped cream, and a piece of butter the size of an egg (melted but not hot); butter a sauté-pan, pour the mixture into it, bake in a moderate oven half an hour, or till rather crisp, turn it out upon your board, and when cold cut it into a variety of shapes with your knife or different shaped cutters (but do not make them too large, or they would not look well), which decorate with a white or pink iceing (No. 1388) or meringue with a paper cornet, and different sorts of preserves.

No. 1202. Genoises fourées.

Prepare a mixture as above, but only put half of it in the sauté-pan; when half done spread a little apricot marmalade over, and pour over the remainder of the mixture; when done turn out upon a board, cut and ornament it as directed above. This style of genoise is new, and when well made very excellent.

No, 1203. Genoises à l’Orange.

Proceed as before, but rub the sugar with the rind of an orange previous to pounding it, and add a small glass of brandy; bake, cut, and ornament it as before.

No. 1204. Genoises aux Pistaches.

Make a genoise as before, bake it, and when cold cut it into round pieces the size of a penny-piece; cut also as many rings the size of a shilling, mask the tops of the round pieces with white iceings (No. 1381) and place a ring in the centre of each, which also mask; have two ounces of pistachios blanched and split in halves, which lay upon them, their points to the rings, thus forming rosettes; fill the rings with marmalade when ready to serve.

No. 1205. Darioles.

Line (very thinly) a dozen small dariole moulds with paste (pâte à foncer, No. 1136), then put one ounce of flour in a basin with an egg, beat it quite smooth, then add six yolks of eggs and four ounces of sugar (pounded) with a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers, six large macaroons crushed, one whole egg, and half a pint of good cream; mix all well together, put a small piece of butter in each of the moulds, fill them with the above preparation, and bake in a quick oven, when done take them out of the mould, sift sugar over, and serve very hot; they will be as light as souffles and eat as delicate.

No. 1206. Biscatelles.

Put one pound of sugar into a basin with five eggs, work it well, and add by degrees four more eggs, then stir in the yolks of five other eggs with a pound of flour, add three quarters of a pound of butter just melted, and the whites of five eggs, beat very stiff, bake it in a sauté-pan, and when cold cut it into a variety of shapes, which ornament with meringue, iceing and preserves as your fancy may direct; half the above quantity would be sufficient for a dish.

No. 1207. Gateaux à l’Indienne.

Make a sponge-cake mixture (No. 1369) of six eggs, which bake in twelve small dariole moulds, when cold cut them in slices, spread a little currant jelly upon each, with a little maresquino, and build them of their original shape; have ready a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of five eggs, with which mask them, finish the top in a point, sprinkle over with rough sugar and dry in a very slow oven, keeping them quite white; when cold, dress in pyramid as elevated as possible.

No. 1208. Gauffres aux Pistaches.

Weigh the weight of six eggs of sugar and three of flour, which put into a basin with half a pound of sweet almonds chopped very fine, mix them with six whole eggs and a teaspoonful of orange-flower-water; rub two or three baking-sheets very lightly with very white wax, upon which drop the mixture with a spoon into cakes the size of a penny piece; let it spread, then lay some pistachios blanched and filleted upon them, place in a warmish oven, and be very particular in baking, for if done too much you will not be able to do anything with them, and if not done enough they will not be crisp eating; directly they are done take them from the oven, and with a thin knife take them off the baking-sheet, curl them over the handle of a wooden spoon as quickly as possible, and place in a screen for a short time to dry; in case your gauffres run out of shape cut them out with an oval cutter or with the point of a knife before putting them upon the spoon.

No. 1209. Gauffres à l’Allemande

Are made the same as the above, but omitting the almonds and pistachios, serve them filled with whipped cream, to which you have added a little powdered sugar and orange-flower-water, if in season a fine strawberry may be placed at each end, dress them in pyramid upon a napkin.

No. 1210. Gauffres à la Vanille

Are made the same as the gauffres aux pistaches, but adding half a stick of vanilla well pounded and sifted with the sugar, and half a glass of brandy instead of the orange-flower-water. A variety of beautiful entremets may be made with gauffres, according to taste.

No. 1211. Gauffres à la Flamande.

Put half a pound of flour in a basin, with which mix six eggs by degrees, working it at first upon one side of the basin, until you have mixed the whole into a smooth paste, then dissolve a piece of dried German yeast, half the size of a walnut, in a wineglassful of warm water; when dissolved pour it into the basin with a gill of warm milk and a little salt, mix all well together, stir in six ounces of butter, previously melted, also two spoonfuls of orange-flower-water, set in a warm place for nearly two hours, when the mixture would have risen about two or three inches turn it round five or six times with a wooden spoon to bring it down; let remain half an hour longer and it is ready for use.

Put the gauffre irons upon a slow fire, turning them occasionally, to get hot by degrees, wipe them well with a cloth, and rub lightly over the interior with fat bacon, then put in two or three spoonfuls of the paste, close the irons, put them over the fire (turning occasionally) for a few minutes; open the irons half way to see if coloured sufficiently (they should be of a light gold colour) and very crisp, if done turn it out, proceeding in like manner with the remainder; when finished have half a pound of lump sugar, well pounded, with a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon and passed through a fine sieve, dip the gauffres into it on both sides and serve very hot dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.

No. 1212. Gauffres à la Casalesry.

Put half a pound of fresh butter into a middling-sized basin (having previously pressed it in a cloth to extract the buttermilk), work it round with your hand until forming a whitish cream, then add half a pound of sifted flour and a piece of yeast of the size of a walnut; work well together, set it in a warm closet half an hour, or until well risen, take it out, add half a pint of whipped cream (taking care that the mixture is not too hot, or it would turn sour) and a little salt, put the gauffre irons upon the fire, and proceed as in the last; when done roll them in powdered cinnamon and sugar mixed together, and send very hot to table; either of the two last may be served either as an entremet or a remove.

No. 1213. Red Nougat.

Blanch and skin three quarters of a pound of almonds, which cut into small fillets, and place them in the oven until lightly browned; put six ounces of powdered sugar in a copper pan with a little essence of cochineal, stir round over the fire till melted, and when it commences boiling stir in the almonds and turn it out upon a buttered baking-sheet, spread out thin, and before getting too crisp cut it into pieces (with a knife) two inches in length and three quarters of an inch in breadth; dress them in crown upon your dish and fill the interior with a pint of whipped cream, in which you have put a tablespoonful of sugar and one of orange-flower-water; strawberries may be added if in season. Nougat aux pistaches is made by omitting the cochineal, and when spread out upon the baking-sheet sprinkling chopped pistachios over whilst very hot, and proceeding as in the last.

No. 1214. Small Cups of Nougat.

Prepare the nougat as before, then have a number of dariole or tartelette moulds, oil the interior slightly, and when the mixture is half cold put a piece the size of a walnut in each, which press to the shape of the mould, with your finger and thumb; when cold take them out and serve filled with cream as before. Vases and large cups may also be made with it, by having moulds and proceeding as for the smaller ones; but for the larger moulds or shapes, which require more time to fill, to prevent the mixture getting cold, keep the pan upon a trivet at the mouth of the oven, taking it by pieces as you require.

No. 1215. Nougat d’Abricot.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll twelve times, leaving it about the thickness of half-a-crown piece, place it upon a baking-sheet, and spread apricot marmalade over a quarter an inch in thickness, then have ready, finely chopped and well dried, three quarters of a pound of blanched sweet almonds, which put into a basin with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, and mix with the whites of four eggs, spread it all over the marmalade and bake in a hot oven a nice colour; when cold cut it into pieces of any shape you please, and dress in crown upon a napkin to serve. Brioche paste (No. 1321) would be better than puff paste for the above, but they are very excellent either way.

No. 1216. Châtaignes Croquantes.

Roast sixty chesnuts, take them from the husks, and when cold pound them well, adding a little white of egg to prevent their oiling; then add half a pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, and the yolks of two or three eggs, mix all well together; lay the paste upon a marble slab, roll it out into small pieces two inches long, place them on a baking-sheet, mark with a knife upon the top, and bake in a sharp oven, when done dip them into sugar boiled to au casse (No. 1379), when cold they are ready to serve.

No. 1217. Amandes Croquantes.

Blanch one pound of sweet almonds, which put in a slow oven to dry, when cold put them into a mortar with one pound of lump sugar, pound very fine and pass them through a wire sieve upon a marble slab, rub in three quarters of a pound of butter, a little chopped rind of lemon, and the yolks of three eggs, form the paste thus made, into small pieces of any shape you please, which bake and dip in sugar as in the last.

No. 1218. Meringues à la Cuilliere.

Pound and sift one pound of lump sugar, whisk the whites of ten eggs very stiff, throw the sugar lightly over, and with a wooden spoon stir gently, perfectly mixing the sugar, then with a table or dessert-spoon lay them out upon white paper in the shape of eggs, sift powdered sugar thickly over, let them remain ten minutes, then shake off the superfluous sugar, place upon boards which you have wetted, and put them into a slow oven, just hot enough to cause them to be light and slightly tinge; when the outside becomes quite crisp, take off the papers, by turning them topsy-turvy and lifting the papers from them, dip your spoon into hot water, and with it clear out the best part of the interior, dust them with powdered sugar, lay them upon a baking-sheet, and put into the screen to dry; they may be made a day or two before they are required, if put away in a dry place; to serve, fill them with whipped cream flavoured either with vanilla or orange-flower (but do not make it too sweet), stick two together, dress in pyramid upon a napkin and serve. Should they happen to stick to the papers, moisten the papers with a paste-brush and water.

No. 1219. Turban de Meringues.

Make a meringue mixture as above of five eggs and half a pound of sugar, which lay out on white paper, but with a teaspoon, of the size and shape of pheasants’ eggs; sift sugar over, which shake off directly, place them upon boards and bake in a slacker oven than directed for the last, keeping them quite white, and drying them quite through; when cold wet the paper underneath, take off the meringues, dry them a little more, have ready, and baked a round board of pâte d’office (No. 1137), seven inches in diameter, have also ready a little white iceing (No. 1383) mixed rather stiff, form a ring of it round the rim of the board, upon which dress the meringues, placing a piece of the iceing the size of a pea at the bottom of each to fix them one to the other, place it to dry, have a little iceing thinner than the last, dip one end of the remaining meringues into it, and then into chopped pistachios (very green), with them form another row upon the first, keeping the green end uppermost, dry it till set, and when ready to serve fill the interior with a whipped cream as in the last, and sprinkle chopped pistachios over, or fill them with any of the crèmes bavaroises; the meringues may likewise be laid out with a paper cornet.

No. 1220. Turban de Meringues glacé.

Make a turban as directed in the last, then soak two ounces of citron (candied), two ounces of currants, and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, in one glass of maresquino, mix the whole in a freezing-pot with a pint and a half of vanilla ice (No. 1381), fill the turban, at the moment of serving, with it.

No. 1221. Petits Meringues aux Pistaches.

Make a meringue mixture of five whites of eggs and half a pound of sugar as before, lay out upon papers with a teaspoon; have ready two ounces of chopped pistachios, which sprinkle over, then sift a little sugar over, which shake off immediately, place them upon boards, bake and empty as directed for meringues à la cuillerée (No. 1218), fill them with whipped cream in which you have introduced a few chopped pistachios, stick two together and serve; these are intended more for garniture than to be served as a dish by themselves.

No. 1222. Champignons en surprise.

Make a meringue mixture of ten eggs as before, put one half of the mixture into a paper horn, (or cornet,) cut a piece of the bottom with a knife to leave a hole as large as the tip of your little finger, press the mixture through it upon sheets of white paper, into pieces as large round as a five-shilling piece, sprinkle them over with grated chocolate and powdered sugar mixed, put the remainder of the mixture into another paper horn, cut a hole at the bottom smaller than in the last, and press the mixture through it upon paper, into pieces an inch and a half in length, and thicker at one end than the other, commencing at the small end to form the stalk of a mushroom, sift a little sugar over, place them upon a board, with those you first laid out, put in a slow oven, when the smaller ones are perfectly dried take them off the papers, stick two together, dip the thick end in white of egg and then into grated chocolate, take out the larger ones, remove them from the paper by wetting it at the back, then stick the smaller ones into them, thus forming mushrooms, dry in the screen and use them for garniture where directed.

No. 1223. Biscuit manqué aux Amandes.

Put half a pound of powdered sugar into a basin, with the yolks of six eggs, beat them well together with a wooden spoon, melt two ounces of fresh butter, which add to the mixture, with six ounces of flour and the whites of the six eggs beat very stiff, stir it till well mixed, but not more than is required, butter a sauté-pan lightly, put some finely powdered sugar into it, shake all over the pan and turn out that which does not adhere to the butter, pour in the mixture, have a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds cut into thin fillets, lay them upon the top and sift sugar over, bake in a moderate oven of a light brown colour; when done take it out of the sauté-pan, and when cold cut it in pieces of a diamond shape three inches in length and two in breadth and serve dressed in pyramid.

No. 1224. Biscuit manqué au Rhum.

Put half a pound of powdered sugar in a basin, with three quarters of a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, (melted,) two glasses of old Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds well pounded, (with the sugar,) and a little salt; mix the whole together, with the yolks of six and two whole eggs, then add the whites of the six eggs whipped very stiff, stirring them in very lightly, have ready a large square paper box, butter the interior well and pour in the mixture; bake in a moderate oven; when nearly done egg over the top with a paste-brush and cover with a preparation of almonds made thus: blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, which cut into thin fillets, dry them in a hot closet, put them into a basin, with three ounces of sugar and mix with the whites of two eggs, place the manqué again in the oven until done and the almonds become slightly browned, then take it from the oven and when cold cut in diamonds or any other shapes your fancy may direct. They do not require to be more than an inch in thickness, and rum may be exchanged for any other flavour if desired.

* * * * *

No. 1225. Calf’s Foot Jelly, flavoured as required.

Jellies may be considered as the first, most wholesome, and refreshing dishes of the second course, especially when made from calves’ feet, which meritorious discovery belongs especially to the English kitchen, where I believe they have been used for years; the inventor certainly deserves a place in the archives of cookery. For the making of jellies in France nothing but isinglass is used, which is so adulterated in its preparation that it requires a person to be a good judge to select it, whilst calves’ feet may be selected by any one, only requiring to be well scalded and fresh. But here I must observe that the discovery has never been advantageously developed to the public at large, for the introduction of cloves, mace, cinnamon, and other spices, give it a very common flavour, which does not at all harmonize with the delicacy of the jelly; a real gourmet would not only send it from his table, but discharge the maker with the impression that a cook without taste was no cook at all; the only flavour required in jelly being some light liqueur, wine, or the freshness of some delicious fruits. Orange jelly, and jelly from the juice of any other fruits, may likewise be made with the calf’s foot jelly, by omitting the greater part of juice of lemon and using it instead, but here isinglass has an advantage, it will keep for any time and may be used in the country where, perhaps, at the time required calves’ feet cannot be obtained.

Take four calf’s feet, cut them up and put them into a stewpan, with six quarts of water, place upon the fire; when boiling remove to the corner, where let boil slowly five hours, to reduce to about two quarts, keeping well skimmed, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, in which let remain in a cold place till set quite firm, take off as much of the oil from the top as possible with a spoon, and wash off the remainder with a little hot water as quickly as possible, wipe dry with a cloth, and put it into a stewpan, with a pound of lump sugar broken in small pieces, the juice of ten lemons, the rind of four (free from pith), the whites of eight eggs, with the shells, half a pint of water, and half a pint of sherry, place the stewpan over the fire and keep whisking its contents until boiling, then pass it through your jelly bag, pouring that which first runs through back again, until it runs quite clear; it is then ready for use as directed in the following receipts.

To be quite certain of the strength of your jelly take a little from the stewpan previous to its boiling, which put into the bottom of a small mould and place upon the ice if too strong add a little more water, but if by mistake too weak reduce it in clarifying.

I have invented some few new jelly moulds, the designs of which are shown in the accompanying plates, also some new fruit atelettes (which will be found at the end of this work), one of which, placed at the top of a jelly when turned out, is a very handsome addition.

No. 1226. Gelée de Dantzic aux Fraises.

Take a quart of jelly clarified as above, with which mix four glasses of eau de vie de Dantzic, reserving the gold leaves by letting them set at the bottom of the glass, mix four tablespoonfuls of the jelly with it, have a cylinder mould and place it in ice, put the jelly with the leaves first in, so that the gold will show at the top of the jelly when turned out, place a fine strawberry in each knob of the mould, then add a little more jelly, when nearly set add more strawberries, sticking them to the sides of the mould and arranging them as tastefully as possible, fill up by degrees or you would have all the strawberries swimming at the top; when finished and quite set it is ready to turn out, which is done by dipping the mould in warm water; wipe quickly with a cloth, shake the mould gently, turn over carefully upon your dish, and draw the mould off quite straight. Two glasses of pale brandy may advantageously be added to the jelly.

No. 1227. Gelée de Maresquin aux Pêches.

Take a quart of jelly clarified as before, to which add four glasses of the best Italian maresquino, have four nice ripe peaches, but perfectly sound, which cut into quarters, bury a cylinder mould in ice, place a little jelly at the bottom, then arrange some of the pieces of peaches, which cover with jelly; when nearly set arrange the remainder, and fill up the mould, proceeding as in the last. The fruit will impart its own peculiar flavour to the jelly.

No. 1228. Gelée de Noyeau aux Abricots.

Flavour a quart of jelly clarified as before with four glasses of the best noyeau, (here I must remark that if the liquors used are not of the best quality it would render the jelly cloudy and very unsightly,) have six nice ripe deep-coloured apricots, which cut in quarters and arrange tastefully in your mould, proceeding as in the two preceding articles. Observe in arranging the fruit in your mould that each piece is separate, so as to leave some parts of the jelly transparent, otherwise it would appear very heavy and ungraceful.

No. 1229. Gelée Macédoine aux Fruits de belle saison.

Prepare a quart of jelly as directed (No. 1225) putting the gold leaves in the mould, which you have previously surrounded with ice, have ready twelve very fresh strawberries, twelve black grapes, twelve very white cherries, and one peach or apricot cut in six, put six strawberries at the bottom, with a piece of peach between each, cover with jelly, when set place in another row of fruit, proceeding thus until full, but not putting the fruit too close together and variegating it as much as possible, or if in winter and the above fruit cannot be obtained prepare three small apples, (golden pippins,) which cut into quarters and put into a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon and one ounce of powdered sugar, set them over a slow fire to stew till tender, then put them out on a plate to cool, peel and take all the pith from two small oranges, which cut in quarters, have also a few brandied cherries and some fine black and green grapes; arrange the whole tastefully in your mould, filling with jelly as before directed.

No. 1230. Bordure de Poires en gelée.

Cut twelve middling-sized ripe pears in halves, take out the cores, peel neatly, and throw them into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons and half a pound of lump sugar, let stew rather quickly till tender, but not to break, put them upon a dish till cold, have a cylinder mould (but not too deep) upon the ice, have a quart of jelly flavoured with four glasses of any liquor, put a little at the bottom of the mould half an inch in depth when set, dress your pears round in a border, (but the reverse way, so that they become right when the mould is turned over,) fill the mould up with the jelly when quite cold and upon the point of setting, and when wanted turn it out as before, and fill up the centre with red whipped jelly. Apricots or peaches cut in halves may be dressed the same, or apples.

No. 1231. Gelée au Rhum.

Have a quart of jelly clarified as before, to which add four wineglasses of old Jamaica rum, colour a little with some essence of cochineal, pour it into your mould without any fruit. This is better appreciated by a party of gentlemen, and should not be introduced where there are ladies; by keeping the jelly a little stiffer you may introduce more rum.

No. 1232. Gelée Mousseuse à l’Eau de Vie.

Put a pint and a half of jelly in a stewpan upon the ice, add four glasses of cognac brandy, whip it until very light and upon the point of setting, when pour in your mould, it will be quite white; when ready to serve turn it out as before directed. If wanted clear, proceed as for gelée au rhum.

No. 1233. Gelée demie chaude froide marbrée.

Flavour a quart of jelly with three glasses of maresquino, have ready also a pint of the preparation (crème au maresquin, No. 1251), nearly set in a basin, dip in three apricots cut in quarters, which put in a plate upon the ice till set, have also some quarters of peaches, which also dip into the cream, when set commence filling your mould with the jelly, placing a few fine strawberries at the bottom, then some of the fruit enveloped, filling with the jelly as before directed, and variegating it as much as possible with black grapes, strawberries, and the enveloped fruit. This is quite a new idea, it not only looks well but likewise cuts and eats beautiful.

No. 1234. Gelée fouettée aux Fruits.

Put a pint and a half of jelly upon the ice in a stewpan, to which add three glasses of maresquino, whip the jelly to a white froth, and when upon the point of setting stir in very carefully about thirty strawberries, not too ripe, with a few cherries, apricots in quarters, or peaches; fill your mould and when set turn out as usual. A jelly for whipping requires to be rather stiffer than when clear, if not stiff enough add a little clarified isinglass.

No. 1235. Gelée à l’Ananas.

Procure a middling-sized pineapple, peel it carefully, cut in halves lengthwise, then into slices, (rather thin,) have a quart of jelly in which you have infused the rind of the pineapple, previously well washed, place a little at the bottom of the mould, and when nearly set lay a border of the pineapple over one upon another, forming a ring, cover with more jelly, let it nearly set, then add another border of the pineapples, proceeding thus until the mould is filled.

No. 1236. Orange Jelly.

Have ten fine Malta oranges and three or four lemons, peel off the rind of eight very finely, which put into a basin, clarify a pound of sugar (No. 1379), pass through a napkin into the basin (over the rind) whilst hot, and cover with a sheet of foolscap paper, twisting it tightly over the edge, and pricking a small hole in the centre with a pin to give a little vent; cut the oranges and lemons in halves, squeeze out all the juice through a hair sieve into another basin, and proceed to clarify it as follows: wash well two sheets of white blotting-paper in a basin of water, let well drain upon a sieve, bruise it in a mortar until forming quite a purée, take from the mortar and put it into the basin with the juice, which mix well with it; let remain a quarter of an hour to settle, then pour it into your jelly bag, pouring what runs through back again into the bag until becoming as clear as spring water, strain the syrup again through a napkin, add the clarified juice, two ounces of clarified isinglass (No. 1372), and a few drops of liquid cochineal, to give an orange tint; mix all well together, and pour into a mould surrounded with ice, when set and ready to serve, turn out as before directed.

* * * * *

Lemon Jelly is made precisely as directed for the orange jelly, using all lemon-juice instead of orange, rather more syrup, and omitting the cochineal. Some persons mix a handful of white sand well washed with the juice which will assist the clarification, but the idea would be objectionable to many.

No. 1237. Orange Jelly, in the skins of the Oranges.

Procure twelve of the best-formed oranges, and with a round vegetable cutter cut a hole of the size of a shilling at the stalk of each, then with the handle of a teaspoon empty all the pulp from them and clear away as much of the pith as possible, throw them into cold water to harden and retake their original shapes, make a jelly with the pulps as in the last, drain the skins of the oranges, stand them upon ice and fill with the jelly, dress in pyramid when set, or cut them in quarters for garnishing. Should you make a hole in clearing out the skins, place a small piece of butter over previous to placing them upon ice, which take off at the time of serving.

No. 1238. Gelée de Fraises.

Pick two pounds of fresh strawberries, which put in a basin, with the juice of two lemons, (over them) and a quart of clarified boiling syrup; cover with paper, let remain twelve hours, colour a little deeper with the essence of cochineal, pour into your jelly bag, and when it has all run through add two ounces of clarified isinglass cold, but not set; mix well and pour it into your mould.

No. 1239. Gelée d’Abricots.

Take the stones from eighteen ripe fleshy apricots, cut into thin slices and put them into a basin with the juice of three lemons; have ready boiling a pint and a half of clarified syrup, pour it over the apricots, cover the basin with paper, and let them remain until quite cold, then drain the syrup through a napkin, add an ounce and a half of clarified isinglass, (half cold,) mix well in, and pour into your mould. The remainder of the apricot would make a very good marmalade.

No. 1240. Gelée à la Bacchante.

Have two pounds of very fine green grapes, which pound in a mortar, with a few leaves of spinach well washed, add half a gill of water, pass the juice from them through a jelly bag, and mix it with three quarters of a pound of clarified sugar, yielding a pint and a half of syrup, and two ounces of clarified isinglass, both nearly cold, add a pint of champagne, stir well in, pour the jelly in your mould and leave it upon ice till set; when ready turn it out and serve.

No. 1241. Gelée de Fleurs d’Orange au Vin de Champagne.

Clarify three quarters of a pound of sugar, and when boiling add two ounces of candied orange-flowers, take off the fire, cover over closely, and let remain till cold, then strain it through a napkin, when all has run through add two ounces of clarified isinglass, (cold but not set,) and nearly a pint of champagne, mix altogether and pour it into your mould.

No. 1242. Pain de Fruit à la Russe.

Pick a pint of fine red currants, half the quantity of raspberries, a pound and a half of cherries, (stoned,) and nearly a pottle of strawberries, place a few of them lightly at the bottom of the mould, then have ready a quart of strawberry jelly (No. 1238), in which dissolve a pound of powdered sugar; when well dissolved pour some of it in the mould containing the fruit, which place upon the ice, let it nearly set, then put more fruit with more jelly, proceeding in like manner until the mould is full; when set dip it into warm water and turn carefully into your dish.

No. 1243. Crème à la Vanille.

Put the yolks of five eggs in a stewpan, with six ounces of powdered sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon; in another stewpan have a pint of milk, in which put an ounce of isinglass, boil ten minutes, stirring occasionally to keep it from burning, throw in two sticks of vanilla, take it from the fire, put a cover upon the stewpan till three parts cold, then take out the vanilla, pour the milk in the other stewpan upon the eggs and sugar, mix well together, and stir over the fire until becoming a little thick and adhering to the back of the spoon, but do not let it boil, pass through a tammie into a round bowl; when cold set the bowl upon ice, add four glasses of noyeau or maresquino, keep stirring its contents, and when upon the point of setting add three parts of a pint of cream well whipped, mix well together and pouring into your mould, keep it upon ice till wanted, and when ready to serve dip into warm water, wipe with a cloth, and turn it out upon your dish.

No. 1244. Crème aux Pistaches.

Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of very green pistachios, which pound well in a mortar, with six ounces of sugar (upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon) and eight bitter almonds, have three quarters of a pint of milk boiling in a stewpan, into which put the above ingredients, with three quarters of an ounce of isinglass previously dissolved, boil a few minutes, then in another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs, pour the milk upon them and stir altogether over the fire till it thickens, then pour it into a bowl to cool, pound well in a mortar two or three good handfuls of spinach well washed, then place it in a strong cloth, which twist as tight as possible, thus squeezing all the juice out of it, which put into a small stewpan over the fire, the moment it boils it will curdle, pour it on the back of a silk sieve, then place the bowl with the other ingredients upon the ice, finish your cream as in the last, but at the moment of adding your whipped cream, add also some of the spinach from the back of the sieve sufficient to give it a beautiful light green colour.

No. 1245. Crème à l’Ananas.

Take the half of a middling-sized pineapple, peel it, and throw the rind into a stewpan containing a pint of boiling milk and an ounce of isinglass, cut the pineapple up into small strips and put them into a small preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar and a wineglassful of sherry or water, place on the fire and let it boil to a thick syrup, in another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs, to which add the milk by degrees, stirring all the while, straining it through a sieve, place over the fire, keeping it stirred till thickening, then pass it through a tammie into a bowl, add the syrup with the pineapples, leave it to cool, then place it upon ice, and finish as for the crème à la vanille.

No. 1246. Crème aux Amandes.

Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, which dry and pound well with six ounces of lump sugar, put it into a stewpan, with the yolks of four eggs, mix well together, then in another stewpan have a pint of milk in which you have put an ounce of isinglass, boil until reduced to three quarters of a pint, pass through a tammie, and pour over the other ingredients, which stir over the fire till it thickens, when pour into your bowl, let remain till cold, stirring occasionally to keep it smooth, add two glasses of noyeau, and finish as in the last.

No. 1247. Crème d’Orange.

Rub the rind of two oranges upon six ounces of lump sugar, which pound and put into a small preserving-pan, with the juice of four large oranges, let the sugar dissolve, boil over the fire till forming a thick syrup, boil nearly a pint of milk in a stewpan, with an ounce of isinglass ten minutes, then pour it into another stewpan containing the yolks of five eggs, which place upon the fire, stirring until it thickens, but not boiling, pass it through a tammie, add the syrup from the orange, and finish as for the crème à la vanille.

No. 1248. Crème aux Fraises.

Prepare a cream as directed for crème à la vanille, and when ready to pour in your mould add half a pound of fresh gathered strawberries well picked, placing them here and there whilst putting it in the mould, and serve when ready.

No. 1249. Crème d’Abricots.

Take a dozen ripe apricots, which cut in slices and put in a preserving-pan, with half a pound of powdered sugar and the juice of a lemon, stew them over a slow fire till tender, then rub them through a tammie with two wooden spoons, put rather more than half a pint of milk to boil, with an ounce and a half of isinglass, reduce to half a pint, then pour it into another stewpan containing the yolks of four eggs, stir over the fire till it thickens, when pass it through a tammie into a bowl, add the apricots, and finish as before.

No. 1250. Crème au Ponche.

Boil an ounce of isinglass in three quarters of a pint of milk (five minutes), take the rind from two lemons as thin as possible, without any pith; directly the milk commences boiling throw it in, then in another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs and four ounces of powdered sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon, then add the milk, mix well, and stir over the fire till it thickens, pass through a tammie into a bowl, and when cold add three glasses of maresquino, one of rum, and a teaspoonful of arrack, place upon ice and finish as before; six liqueur glasses of milk punch added instead of the above liqueurs would be very excellent.

No. 1251. Crème au Maresquin.

Prepare a cream as for the crème à la vanille, only adding a quarter of an ounce more isinglass to the custard, and when cold mixing four glasses of maresquino with it.

No. 1252. Crème au Noyeau.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only substituting noyeau for maresquino.

No. 1253. Crème au Café.

Put three ounces of the best (unroasted) Mocha coffee into a stewpan, keep tossing over a sharp fire till it becomes yellow, in another stewpan have a pint of milk in which you have boiled an ounce of isinglass, throw your coffee into it, place the cover upon the stewpan and let stand till half cold, have the yolks of five eggs in another stewpan, with which mix four ounces of powdered sugar, then add the milk, stir over the fire till it thickens, and finish as before.

No. 1254. Crème au Caramel.

Put four ounces of powdered sugar in a stewpan, which stir over a slow fire till quite melted and beginning to tint, take it off the fire; in another stewpan have three quarters of a pint of milk in which you have boiled an ounce of isinglass, pour it upon the caramel, which stir occasionally until it is quite dissolved, pour into another stewpan with the yolks of five eggs, stir over the fire till it thickens, when pass through a tammie, and finish as before.

No. 1255. Bavaroise aux Fraises.

Pick two pounds of fine red strawberries, which put into a basin with half a pound of powdered sugar, let them remain half an hour, then rub them through a tammie, add an ounce of isinglass, previously dissolved in two wineglassfuls of water, boiled and passed through a tammie; set the whole upon the ice, stirring until upon the point of setting, when stir in a pint of cream well whipped, pour it into the mould, which keep upon the ice till set, and when wanted dip it into warm water, and turn out upon your dish.

No. 1256. Bavaroise aux Framboises.

Proceed exactly as for the strawberries in the last, using a pound and a quarter of raspberries and six ounces of currants; or either of the above bavaroises may be made by putting the fruit into a preserving-pan with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, moving it over the fire until boiling, when strain it through a silk sieve mixing the juice with the dissolved isinglass, and finish as before; should either of the above be deficient in colour a little essence of cochineal may be used.

No. 1257. Bavaroise aux Abricots.

Take twelve ripe fleshy apricots, cut them in halves, stone them, and put them into a preserving-pan with half a pound of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and an ounce of isinglass, dissolved in a little water, stew them till quite tender, then rub them through a tammie, put them in a basin when cold, stir it upon the ice, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, and pour into your mould.

No. 1258. Bavaroise aux Poires.

Procure a dozen and a half of middling-sized pears, peel and cut out the cores, slice them into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons (the rind of one of which also add, cut very thin), twenty bitter almonds blanched, and chopped very fine, half a pound of lump sugar, and an ounce of clarified isinglass, place the pan upon a moderate fire, moving the contents occasionally, stew until quite tender, when rub them through a tammie, and finish as in the last.

No. 1259. Bavaroise aux Pommes.

Peel and cut in quarters twenty small pippin apples, which put into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons, two glasses of sherry, half a pound of sugar, and an ounce of clarified isinglass; proceed precisely as in the last article, adding a glass of maresquino, if approved of, or noyeau.

No. 1260. Bavaroise aux Pistaches.

Blanch and skin four ounces of pistachios with twelve bitter almonds, and pound them well with six ounces of sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon; when well pounded throw it into three quarters of a pint of boiling milk with three quarters of an ounce of isinglass, boil altogether five minutes, then pour it into a bowl or basin, stand upon the ice, keep stirring, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream whipped and some of the preparation of spinach, as for the crème aux pistaches (No. 1244); pour it into your mould, which must be previously lightly oiled, and twenty chopped pistachios shook over the interior, until adhering to the sides.

No. 1261. Bavaroise à l’Ananas.

Procure a middlingsized pineapple, peel and cut it in slices, which put into a small preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar, half an ounce of isinglass, and a wineglassful of water, stew until quite tender, then rub them through a tammie, set it on the ice, keeping it stirred; when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, mix well, and pour it into your mould.

No. 1262. Bavaroise au Maresquin.

Put one ounce and a half of isinglass in a stewpan, with half a pint of water, the juice of two lemons, and four ounces of lump sugar, boil altogether, reducing one half, skim and pass it through a tammie into a bowl; when cold add four glasses of maresquino, and two of brandy, place it on the ice, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, and pour it into your mould.

No. 1263. Bavaroise au Ponche.

Boil one ounce of isinglass in a stewpan with the juice of four and the rind of two lemons cut very thin, half a pound of sugar, and nearly half a pint of water, reduce one half, then pass it through a tammie into a bowl or basin, and when cold add two glasses of maresquino, two of rum, and half a one of arrack, place it upon the ice and finish as in the last, or use the milk punch as directed for crème au ponche.

I must here observe, that although I have stated as nearly as possible the quantity of isinglass to be used in the foregoing recipes, yet there are so many causes which may make it either too much or insufficient, such as the difference in quality of isinglass, or the difference in the quantity of juice extracted from the various fruits, which would make it impossible to be exact; so that the surest method is to try a little first upon the ice before adding the whipped cream, if too stiff, a little more milk, juice, or liqueur (whatever it may be you are making) must be added, but if not stiff enough, a little more clarified isinglass, which is the method adopted by most practitioners.

No. 1264. Charlotte Russe.

Line the inside of a plain round mould with Savoy biscuits (No. 1361), cutting and placing them at the bottom to form a rosette, and standing them upright round the sides, with a piece cut off the top and bottom of each, and trimmed at the sides to make them stand quite close, stand the mould upon ice, then have ready a crème au maresquin (No. 1251), to which you have added a good glass of cognac brandy, with which you fill the interior, when set and at the time of serving, turn over upon a dish and lift off the mould.

No. 1265. Charlotte Prussienne.

Put a little jelly (flavoured with a little brandy and coloured of a beautiful crimson, with a little essence of cochineal) into a plain round mould, covering the bottom half an inch in depth; place it upon the ice, then line the sides of the mould with Savoy biscuits, and fill with a bavaroise au maresquin (No. 1262), place it upon ice till set, and when ready to serve dip the bottom of the mould very quickly in warm water, and turn it over upon your dish.

No. 1266. Charlotte Russe en mosaïque.

Have a plain round mould, at the bottom of which lay some grapes (white and black), strawberries, pieces of apples (stewed), pears, or any fruit in season; cover the bottom, variegating them as much as possible to imitate mosaic, set the mould upon ice, and pour in a little clear jelly, but only sufficient to just cover them; when set line the side of the mould with the biscuits, and fill as for charlotte russe, only introducing angelica and stewed apples, cut in large dice, with the cream.

No. 1267. Charlotte Russe aux Liqueurs.

Line a mould as directed in either of the three last articles, and fill with a cream made as for the crème au maresquin (No. 1251), only using one glass of curaçoa, one of noyeau, and one of maresquino, instead of all maresquino.

No. 1268. Charlotte aux Fraises.

Line a plain round mould with ripe strawberries by burying the mould in ice to the rim, and dipping the strawberries in calf’s-foot jelly, first covering the bottom with them cut in halves, the cut side downwards, afterwards building them up the sides, the jelly (which must be cold, but not set) causing them to adhere; when finished, fill it with the cream as directed for the charlotte russe, and when ready to serve, dip the mould in warm water, and turn it out upon your dish. The cream must be very nearly set when you pour it in, or it would run between the strawberries and produce a bad effect.

No. 1269. Gateaux aux Fruits de belle saison.

Line a charlotte mould very tastefully with various kinds of fruits (such as stoned cherries, strawberries, pieces of peaches, apricots, apples, or pears, cut into very tasteful shapes, stewed in a little syrup, and drained upon the back of a hair sieve), by dipping them into jelly, forming some design at the bottom of the mould, and building them in reverse rows up the sides, having the mould previously placed in ice, when well set, terminate as in the last.

No. 1270. Charlotte de Pommes au Beurre.

For the few following receipts, the russet apple is the one I should recommend, it being the most suitable, not being so watery, or falling in purée, but in case they cannot be obtained other sorts may be used, which will require to be more reduced in stewing.

Well butter the interior of a plain round mould, then cut twelve pieces of bread the size and thickness of a shilling, dip them in clarified butter, and lay them in a circle round the bottom of your mould; cut also eight small pieces in the shape of diamonds, dip them in butter, and with them form a star in the centre of the circle, cover the whole with a round piece of bread the size of the bottom of the mould and the thickness of a penny-piece, cut about thirty other pieces an inch wide and four inches in length, dip one after the other in clarified butter, which stand upright, one half way over the other, all round the interior of the mould; then have ready prepared two dozen or more russet apples, which peel and cut in slices, put them into a round-bottomed preserving-pan with six ounces of butter and half a pound of broken lump sugar, with a little lemon-peel cut in strips, and a glass of sherry, place them over a sharp fire, tossing over occasionally, but keeping them together in a cake; when quite tender fill your mould (having previously well egged and bread-crumbed the interior), place another round piece of bread (also egged and bread-crumbed) over the apples, and stand the mould in a hot oven until the bread becomes well browned, take out and turn it over upon your dish, have a few spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, melt it over the fire, and when quite hot pour round the charlotte; sugar and salamander the top if not quite crisp, and serve.

No. 1271. Charlotte de Pommes à la Confiture.

Proceed as in the last, but when the apples are ready mix a few spoonfuls of apricot marmalade with them and fill the mould; place it in the oven, and serve as before.

No. 1272. Chartreuse de Pommes.

Procure twenty small russet apples, cut off the top and bottom of each, and with a long vegetable cutter cut out as many pieces as possible of the thickness of a quill, and about an inch in length, have in a stewpan upon the fire a thick syrup made from half a pound of sugar, with the juice of a lemon and half a pint of water; when well reduced throw in half your pieces of apples, stew them until tender, but not to break, take them out and lay them upon a hair sieve, put the other half of the apples into the syrup, stew them until nearly done, then add a little essence of cochineal to give them a crimson colour, stew a minute or so more, then take them out, lay them on the sieve till cold, lightly oil a plain round mould, cut some pieces of green angelica, with which form a star at the bottom of the mould, and a border round the bottom, then with the white pieces of apples make a row round the sides, standing each piece upon one end slantingly, one leaning upon the other, above which place a row of the red pieces in the same manner, and so on alternately till you reach the top; you have previously peeled a dozen and a half of apples, which cut in slices and put in a preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar, the juice of a lemon, a small piece of butter, a little powdered cinnamon, and a small glass of rum, place them over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until forming a thick marmalade, put them in a basin until cold, fill your chartreuse, and when ready to serve turn it out upon your dish, garnish with fillets of red currant jelly, and pour a little white syrup reserved from the apples over.

No. 1273. Suédoise de Pommes.

This very grotesque entremet was never a favorite of mine; any kind of ornaments, such as cascades, ruins, arches, &c., may be made from them, and ornamented with various fruits, but they look very heavy, and from the apples being so much boiled and reduced become very unpalatable, they being nothing more than apples boiled in syrup to a very firm marmalade; I shall not here enter into the various modes of dressing it, but substitute other entremets, which, if not so ornamental, are at any rate much more palatable.

No. 1274. Pain de Pommes à la Russe.

Put one pound and a half of lump sugar and a pint and a half of water into a round-bottomed copper preserving-pan, place it over a sharp fire and reduce it to au casse (No. 1379), have ready twenty-four good brown pippin apples peeled and cut into slices, which put into the sugar, keeping stirred until it becomes quite a thick marmalade, take off the fire and put it into a cylinder mould, previously slightly oiled, shake it well down and let it remain until quite cold, when turn it out of the mould upon your dish; have a few spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan, which melt over the fire, add two glasses of good old rum, and when partly cold pour over and serve with whipped cream in the centre, in which you have introduced a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers.

No. 1275. Croquettes de Pommes.

Prepare some apples as in the above, (or the remains of one previously served,) when cold form it into the shape of pears, have three eggs in a basin well whisked, dip each piece into it, then throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, smooth them over with a knife, then again dip them into the eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry of a light brown colour in very hot lard, dress them upon a napkin in pyramid, and serve with sifted sugar flavoured with orange over them.

No. 1276. Pommes au Riz.

Peel and quarter twelve good-sized apples, put them into a preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the thin rind of a lemon in strips, the juice of another, and a wineglassful of water, pass them over a sharp fire, and when tender lay them upon the back of a hair sieve to drain, then put six ounces of rice into a stewpan, with a quart of milk, place it upon the fire, stir until boiling, then place it upon a very slow fire to simmer very gently until quite tender, placing a little fire upon the lid, if it becomes dry before it is tender add a little more milk, then add a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, and four eggs, stir them well in, stir over the fire until becoming again thick, when put it upon a dish to get cold, then form a stand with it upon your dish eight inches in diameter and three in height, but hollow in the centre, where dress some of the apples, more rice over, then more apples, forming a pyramid; you have previously reduced the syrup drained from the apples, which pour over the whole, and garnish with some very green angelica, forming any design your fancy may dictate. Pommes au riz may be served hot as well as cold.

No. 1277. Poires au Riz.

Peel and cut in halves eighteen small ripe pears, which put in a small preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, a little water, and the juice of two lemons. Stew them till tender, then lay them upon a dish to cool, and mix three tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with the syrup, have some rice prepared as in the last, with which make a stand, but not quite so high, dress the pears in a border in the interior, and again in the centre dress the remainder of the rice in pyramid; when ready to serve pour the syrup over, and garnish tastefully with angelica round.

No. 1278. Abricots au Riz.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only passing two dozen of apricots cut in halves, with the kernels from the stones previously blanched and skinned, in the syrup instead of pears, dress them upon the dish precisely the same.

No. 1279. Pommes au Riz en Timbale.

Line a plain round mould with pâte fine (No. 1136), having previously buttered it, the paste must not be thicker than a shilling, then line the interior of the paste with rice dressed as for pommes au riz, placing eight apples in the centre, likewise dressed as for pommes au riz, cover another sheet of paste over, and put in a hot oven until the paste is quite done; when three parts cold turn out upon your dish, mask it over with apricot marmalade, and decorate it with dried cherries and blanched pistachios, according to taste; do not serve until quite cold. Apricots and pears may also be used; this entremet may also be served hot.

No. 1280. Pommes à la Trianon.

Put four ounces of ground rice in a stewpan, with a pint and a quarter of milk and two ounces of butter, stir until boiling, then add the rind of a lemon cut very thin, let simmer over a slow fire until the rice is done and becomes rather thick, when take out the lemon-peel and add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and the yolks of eight eggs, stir again over the fire until the eggs are set, and put it out upon a dish to get cold, then turn twelve golden pippin apples, taking off the rind without leaving the mark of your knife, having previously with a long vegetable cutter taken out the cores, rub the apples with lemon-juice and stew them in a thick syrup (made with three quarters of a pound of sugar boiled with half a pint of water and the juice of a lemon), stew them until tender, but keep them whole, peel and quarter three oranges, which (after having taken out the apples) just give a boil up in the syrup, then dress the rice in pyramid in the centre of your dish, surrounded with the apples interspersed with the quarters of oranges, and pour the syrup over when ready to serve.

No. 1281. Pommes Meringuées.

Line a small raised pie-mould, three inches in height and eight in diameter, with pâte fine (No. 1136), about a quarter of an inch in thickness, or if no mould raise a crust with the hands of pâte a dresser, fill it with bran or flour, and bake in a moderate oven; when done empty it and have ready some apples dressed as for charlotte de pommes (No. 1270), or dressed in syrup as in the last, with which fill the croustade, then make a meringue preparation (No. 1218), of five eggs, which lay over the top, smoothing it nicely, and ornamenting it with some of the mixture, by piping it with a paper funnel according to your taste, sift a little sugar over, and place it in a very slow oven till it becomes crisp, and serve when ready either hot or cold.

No. 1282. Pommes à la Vestale.

Make a pyramid of rice (upon a dish) dressed as for pommes au riz (No. 1276), peel and cut eight russet apples in slices and put them into a preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar and the juice of a lemon, stew till quite tender and put them into a basin to cool, then cut nine small apples, (golden pippins) in halves, to which give the shape of cups, which stew in a thick syrup until nearly tender, but not to break, then place the apples upon the pyramid, make eighteen small tartelettes (No. 1155) of thin gum paste, small enough to fix in each cup of apple, and dress them in pyramid upon the others; when ready to serve cover the whole with thick syrup, pour a teaspoonful of brandy into each tartelette, with some in the dish, which set on fire at the moment of going to table, it has a very pleasing effect.

No. 1283. Pommes au Beurre.

Peel eighteen russet apples, which cut in quarters and trim of a nice shape, put them into a small preserving-pan, with two ounces of butter and three quarters of a pound of sugar, having previously rubbed the rind of an orange upon it and pounded it, pass them over a sharp fire, moving occasionally until quite tender, have ready buttered a plain dome mould, put the apples into it, pressing them down a little close; when half cold turn it out of the mould upon a dish, and cover all over with apricot marmalade; when cold it is ready to serve.

No. 1284. Miroton de Pommes.

Procure a dozen russet apples, which cut into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel and take out the cores with a round cutter, then put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, spread it over the bottom and lay in your apples, with half a pound of powdered sugar and the juice of two lemons, stew gently over a moderate fire; when done dress them rather high in crown upon your dish, melt three spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with which mix a glass of Madeira wine, which pour over when ready to serve.

No. 1285. Beignets de Pommes.

Make a paste as follows: put a pound of sifted flour into a basin, with which mix a good half pint of water, mix it with a wooden spoon until very smooth, then have an ounce and a half of butter melted in a stewpan, which stir into it, whisk the whites of three eggs very stiff, which also stir in gently, then have six russet apples, which cut in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel them and take out the cores with a round cutter, dip each piece separately into the batter, when completely but thinly enveloped drop them into a stewpan of hot lard, to fry them well, the lard should not at first be too hot, but become hotter as they proceed in cooking, proceeding thus till you have fried the whole of them a nice light brown colour, drain them upon a cloth, then lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over and glaze them with the salamander, serve dressed in a double crown upon a napkin.

No. 1286. Beignets d’Oranges.

Prepare a paste or batter as in the last, then peel eight middling-sized oranges, quarter them, without breaking the thin skin that divides them, and take off all the white pith, dip each piece singly into the batter, and then into a stewpan of hot lard; fry of a nice light colour, drain upon a napkin, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze with the salamander, and serve them dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.

The fruit for any description of fritters may be soaked in any liqueur for half an hour before they are required, but it often prevents their being well fried.

No. 1287. Beignets de Pêches.

Skin and cut in halves twelve ripe but firm peaches, take out the stones and put the peaches into a basin, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, toss them together lightly, but not to break the peaches; have a batter prepared as in the last, in which dip each piece of peach separately, fry them in lard, not too hot, glaze and serve precisely as in the last.

No. 1288. Beignets d’Abricots.

Gut twelve or fourteen apricots in halves, put them into a basin with a little powdered sugar, and proceed exactly as for beignets de pêches.

No. 1289. Croquettes de Riz.

Well wash half a pound of the best Carolina rice, which put into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of milk, and a quarter of a pound of butter, place it upon the fire, stir until boiling, then place it upon a slow fire, cover the stewpan and let simmer very slowly until quite tender; rub the rind of a lemon upon a lump of sugar weighing a quarter of a pound, pound it in a mortar quite fine, add it to the rice, with the yolks of eight eggs (mix well), stir them a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs thicken, but do not let it boil, lay out upon a dish, when cold form it into a number of small balls, or pears, or into long square pieces, according to fancy; have three or four eggs in a basin well whisked, dip each piece in singly, and then into a dish of bread-crumbs, smooth them gently with a knife, dip them again into the eggs and bread-crumbs, put them into a wire basket, which put in a stewpan of very hot lard, fry a nice light brown colour, drain on a cloth, dress them pyramidically upon a napkin, and serve with powdered sugar sifted over them.

No. 1290. Croquettes de Crème au Riz.

Proceed precisely as in the last, only using ground rice instead of whole, they are finished and served exactly the same.

No. 1291. Croquettes de Macaroni.

Blanch six ounces of macaroni in half a gallon of boiling water until tender, then strain and put it in a basin of cold water; when cold cut it into pieces half an inch in length, and put it into a stewpan containing a pint and a half of boiling milk, in which you have infused a stick of vanilla, boil until it becomes thickish, add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, two ounces of butter, and the yolks of eight eggs, stir them well in over the fire until the eggs thicken, then pour out upon a dish, and proceed precisely as for the croquettes de riz.

No. 1292. Croquettes de Vermicelle.

Put six ounces of vermicelli in a stewpan with a pint and a half of milk, boil until very tender and becoming thick, keeping it stirred with a spoon, then add a quarter of a pound of sugar, upon which the rind of a Seville orange has been rubbed, and two ounces of butter, stir well in, add the yolks of eight eggs, and proceed as directed in the last article.

Croquettes of semolina may also be made the same way.

No. 1298. Crème Frite à la Patissière.

Put the yolks of six eggs in a stewpan with two good tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, mix quite smooth with a wooden spoon; then add a pint of boiling milk or cream, stir in by degrees and place it over the fire, keeping stirred until it thickens, add an ounce of butter, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of crushed ratafias, a little orange-flower-water, and three whole eggs, mix the whole well together, and stir it a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs set; then pour it out upon a sauté-pan, previously oiled, and when quite cold cut it into pieces one inch wide and two and a half long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, the same as for croquettes, fry them in the same manner, dress upon a napkin as high as you can, with sifted sugar over, they may be flavoured also with vanilla or lemon. They may be varied in shape according to fancy.

No. 1294. Beignets Soufflés à la Vanille.

Place half a pint of milk in a stewpan over the fire, and when boiling put in a fresh stick of vanilla, place a cover upon the stewpan, let it infuse ten minutes, then take out the vanilla and add rather more than an ounce of butter, place it again upon the fire, and when boiling stir in quickly six ounces of flour; dry the paste well over the fire, keeping it from sticking to the bottom of the stewpan, then take it off and stir in six whole eggs gradually, and six ounces of powdered sugar; have ready a stewpan of hot lard, into which drop the above mixture in pieces about the size of small walnuts, fry a nice colour, and when quite done drain them upon a cloth, and serve upon a napkin with sifted sugar over; they may also be flavoured with orange-flower-water.

No. 1295. Frangipane.

Put six whole eggs in a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of flour, beat well together with a wooden spoon, then add a pint of milk or cream, and keep stirring over the fire until it becomes thick and upon the point of boiling; add a quarter of a pound of sugar, upon which the rind of an orange or lemon has been rubbed, two ounces of crushed ratafias, and a small glass of brandy (mix well); put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and when getting a little brown stir it into the frangipane, which is then ready for use; it may be flavoured also with vanilla or any of the flavours used for such purposes.

No. 1296. Omelettes à la Célestine.

Put a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a quarter of a pound of flour together in a basin, which well mix with four eggs till smooth, then add nearly half a pint of milk; have ready an omelette-pan, in which put a small piece of butter, when the pan is quite hot pour in two tablespoonfuls of the mixture, which let spread all over the pan, when quite set and of a light brown colour underneath, turn it over upon the bottom of a stewpan-lid, previously buttered, and again from that upon a cloth, proceeding thus with the whole mixture, then spread a teaspoonful of apricot marmalade upon each; have ready some frangipane as directed in the last, quite hot, lay a piece the size of a small sausage upon each, and fold them up neatly, trim the ends, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over and glaze lightly with the salamander, dress them in crown, or in pyramid upon your dish, and serve very hot.

No. 1297. Pannequets à la Confiture.

Put a quarter of a pound of sifted flour into a basin with four eggs, mix them together very smoothly, then add half a pint of milk or cream, and a little grated nutmeg, put a piece of butter in your pan (it requires but a very little), and when quite hot put in two tablespoonfuls of the mixture, let spread all over the pan, place it upon the fire, and when coloured upon one side turn it over, then turn it upon your cloth; proceed thus till they are all done, then spread apricot or other marmalade all over, and roll them up neatly, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze nicely with the salamander, and serve upon a napkin; the above may be served without the marmalade, being then the common pancake.

REMOVES. SECOND COURSE.

My readers could not have failed to remark the numerous innovations in all classes of dishes throughout this work, which nothing but constant study, practice, and profound knowledge of the art could have brought to perfection. In the following Removes still greater innovations will be found than in any other department, for I have always aimed at producing the greatest effect upon the last dishes sent to table, particularly as they are the ones over which each convive has time to pass remarks, and admire, if properly executed. The transformation of the second course from the first has never failed to give the greatest satisfaction, and has often caused the greatest hilarity at table; some parties, unacquainted with them, have ordered their removal, thinking they belonged to the first course, whilst others have actually carved them before discovering their mistake. And, again, those Removes being only demi-glacé, and not too sweet, refresh the palate, disposes it more favorably for the dessert, and does not prevent the freely partaking of the ices which there cannot be avoided. Any kind of ice pudding, however excellent when done to perfection, is too close an imitation of the dessert ices, and properly belong to the confectioner.

To regenerate that finish of the dinner, which is very properly much thought of in England, it only requires a little artistic feeling, which is soon acquired by practice and perseverance. To simplify them as much as possible, I have only described one sort of sponge-cake, which is always varied in flavour by the different kinds of fruits and ices with which they are filled.

The introduction of atelettes of fruit in the Removes as well as in the jellies, is also quite a new idea, and renders the appearance of both very novel as well as very handsome.

No. 1298. Gateau Britannique à l’Amiral.

Make a sponge-cake of twenty eggs as directed (No. 1369), have a tin mould in the shape of a vessel, which paper well at the sides, to prevent the mixture running over whilst baking (the mould requires to be eighteen inches in length, six in breadth, and high in proportion); butter and lightly flour the interior of the mould, into which pour the mixture, which bake an hour and a half in a moderate oven (this cake requires to be baked a day or two before using); mask the exterior with chocolate iceing (No. 1383) to imitate the colour of a ship, when quite dry partly empty the interior,[16] leaving a piece across in the centre, to fix the mast upon, which you have made of pâte d’office (No. 1137), as also the ladders, rigging, and guns, by rolling pieces of the paste to the thickness required with the hands, cutting them to the lengths required, and baking them a light colour in a moderate oven; mask the guns with chocolate iceing, made rather darker than for the cake, and form the muzzles with small rings of puff paste, place them judiciously at the sides, as also the mast and rigging at their respective places (see design), place the vessel upon a dish, laying rather upon one side, lay rolls of gelée à la bacchante (No. 1240) round, over which lay thin slices of the same to form waves, make the sails of wafer or rice-paper, fix them to the mast as if filled with wind, upon the side the vessel is laying on, have also a flag made of the same material, painted with a little water-colour, which place at the stern; well soak the interior with wine and brandy, mixed with apricot marmalade, just before serving, and when ready fill with a delicate vanilla ice (No. 1381); you have previously formed some ropes of spun sugar, which affix to the rigging at the moment of serving.

This dish has a pleasing effect, and, unlike many ornamental dishes, the whole of it is eatable. It may be rather difficult for many, but with a few trials, aided by the above directions, I flatter myself it may be easily accomplished, but of course a great deal depends upon the taste of the person employed, who, if they could not accomplish one thing, would resort to another, and succeed in making a very handsome dish. Should you have no mould to bake the cake in, bake it in something as near as you can to the size, and afterwards shape it with a knife; and, again, should it be inconvenient to make the green jelly for garnishing, any other description of white clear jelly may be used. The remains and trimmings are very good made into cabinet pudding.

No. 1299. Hure de Sanglier glacé en surprise,

Or mock boar’s head; this dish, although more simple than the last, is no less pleasing. Make a sponge-cake of thirty eggs (No. 1369), which bake (in an oval baking-dish or common tin dish-cover) nearly two hours; the cake requires to be ten inches in thickness at one end, and about six at the other (which may be accomplished by tilting the dish slightly upon one end to bake the cake); the next day cut it into the shape of a dressed boar’s head with a knife, then carefully take out the interior to within an inch of the surface, in as large pieces as possible, put the pieces back again to keep the cake in its proper shape, turn it over upon the bottom of a large dish, and mask it all over with a chocolate iceing as near as possible to the colour of the real boar’s head, form the eyes with white iceing, placing a dried cherry in the centre, and forming the eyelashes with thin fillets of pistachios, make the tusks of gum paste (No. 1139) or pâte d’office (No. 1137), and the ears of puff paste (No. 1132), by working it a little with the hands, giving them their shape, and baking them upon two round cutters of a corresponding size, fix them with a stiffish paste made of flour and white of eggs, when done, upon the head, and mask them also with chocolate iceing; fix in the tusks, and when well dried and ready to serve empty the interior, which soak with a little brandy, and fill with a lemon-cream ice (No. 1385) in which you have introduced four glasses of curaçoa, turn it over upon a silver dish, glaze over with currant jelly, melted and mixed with a little wine, and garnish with gelée au citron (No. 1225) made reddish with a little cochineal, to give it the colour of a brown aspic (No. 1360), form some bold design upon the top (between the eyes) with it in croutons, and the remainder chopped and also in croutons around.

No. 1300. Cigne glacé en surprise.

Make a large sponge-cake of forty eggs as directed (No. 1369), bake it in a large oval tin dish-cover (about two hours and a half would be the time required), and the next day cut it with your knife into the form of the body of a swan (leaving a space in the breast down the front for the neck), empty the interior as in the last; ice it over with a white iceing, and when upon the point of setting ruffle it with the prongs of a fork in imitation of feathers, form the head and neck of pâte d’office (No. 1137) by rolling out a piece with the hands of sufficient length and proportionate thickness to form the neck, being rather thicker at one end than at the other; cut it in halves lengthwise, placing them upon a buttered baking-sheet, the cut side downwards, model each half head with taste separately, form each piece exactly alike, and of the same size for the neck, being somewhat in the form of the letter S, but finishing quite straight at the bottom, bake them in a moderate oven, and when done join them together with a paste made of flour and white of egg, with which also affix it to the dish you intend serving it upon (previously scraping the bottom of the neck quite flat with a knife), mask it over with a white iceing, and when upon the point of setting ruffle it with the prongs of a fork, and set in a warm place until dry; an hour before serving pour some gelée au maresquin (No. 1227) cold, but not set, into the dish, filling it to the inner rim, and stand it in a cold place until set; when ready to serve empty the interior of the body, which soak with three glasses of maresquino and three of brandy; fill with a vanilla ice (No. 1381), with which you have mixed two ounces of citron, two ounces of angelica, two ounces of currants, and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, the citron and angelica cut into dice, and all soaked three hours in maresquino and brandy; turn it over on your dish upon the jelly, fixing it neatly to the neck, you have previously made some sucre filé (No. 1380), with which form the wings and tail, and fix in their respective places, whip about a quart more of the jelly as above upon ice until upon the point of setting, and with it, when set, form a kind of foam at the breast, diminishing it at the sides by degrees, in imitation of waves caused by the bird swimming.

No. 1301. Jambon glacé en surprise.

Make a sponge-cake of twenty-four eggs as directed (No. 1369), bake it in a mould of the shape of a ham, or in a baking-dish, having a cake about six inches in thickness, and when cold cutting it with a knife in the shape of a ham, empty the interior as before, mask the exterior with chocolate iceing as near to the colour of real cooked ham as possible, over which sprinkle a few chopped pistachios and crushed ratafias, in imitation of chopped parsley and bread-crumbs; you have reserved a little of the iceing, with which mix some more melted chocolate, making it a very dark brown, it will when cool form a kind of paste, with which form a part of the skin of a ham left upon the knuckle end, cut in points when dry and ready to serve, line the interior with apricot marmalade, soak it a little with brandy, fill it with apricot ice (No. 1387), turn over upon your dish, glaze with a little melted currant jelly, form a star of clear brownish calf’s-foot jelly upon the top, flavoured according to taste, with some chopped and in croutons around, run a skewer in at the knuckle, upon which place a paper frill, and serve.

No. 1302. Gigot de Mouton bouilli glacé en surprise.

Make a cake of the same size as the last, but bake it in a smaller compass, that is, more round and smaller at one end than at the other; the next day form it with your knife into the shape of a leg of mutton, mask it over with a white iceing in which you have introduced a very little chocolate, to give it the colour as near as possible of the fat of a leg of mutton when boiled (having previously emptied the interior); form the knuckle-bone of pâte d’office, and imitate the lean part with some chocolate iceing; when dry and ready to serve, soak the interior with four spoonfuls of preserved greengages, mixed with two glasses of sherry, and fill it with strawberry ice (No. 1388); turn it over upon your dish, place a paper frill upon the knuckle, surround it with gelée mousseuse (No. 1232) in broken pieces, to imitate mashed turnips, and a few apples dressed as for pommes à la Trianon (No. 1280), to imitate whole ones; make also a custard with the yolks of four eggs and half a pint of milk (as directed for crème au maresquin, omitting the isinglass), to which, when cold and thickish, add an ounce of very green pistachios, blanched and coarsely chopped in imitation of capers, which pour over the cake previous to garnishing.

No. 1303. Selle de Mouton à la Jardinière en surprise.

Make a sponge-cake with the same quantity of eggs as in the last, which bake in a long square baking-dish, or form a square in a round one with bands of paper, fixing them in their place with pieces of common paste against the side of the dish; the next day form it with a knife to the shape of a saddle of mutton, trussed as for roasting (as near as possible), ice it as in the last, but rather darker, with chocolate, to imitate a real one when roasted (imitate it from a real one should you have one); you have previously emptied the interior, form the lean parts with darker coloured chocolate iceing, and the flaps by graining it with a knife; when dry and ready to serve fill with apricot ice (No. 1387), turn it over upon your dish, garnish with a custard made as for vanilla ice (No. 1381), but coloured brown with a little melted chocolate, to which add a quantity of fruits, dressed as directed for chartreuse de pommes (No. 1272), thus imitating a sauce with vegetables; green currants passed in sugar, and mixed with and served in the custard, make a very good imitation of peas.

No. 1304. Cotelettes de Mouton glacé en surprise.

Make a sponge-cake of eighteen eggs as directed (No. 1369), which bake in a baking-dish so that the cake shall be about four inches in thickness; when baked and cold cut it in thin slices, lay them upon your table, and spread apricot marmalade upon each alternate slice, then lay those slices without the marmalade upon the others, press gently together and cut them into pieces about three inches in length and one and a half in breadth, of the shape of cotelettes, using a round cutter to form the circle of the cotelette, have ready some thin light chocolate iceing in a basin and some ratafia-crumbs in a dish, mask the cotelettes lightly with the chocolate iceing and throw them into the crumbs, take them out, pat them gently with your knife, put a piece of blanched almond in the end to imitate the bone, and put them upon a baking-sheet in the screen to dry; when ready make a thin border of apricot or any other marmalade on a silver dish, upon which dress the cotelettes in border, garnish round with strawberry jelly, chopped and in croutons, and serve with a vanilla ice dressed very high in the centre.

No. 1305. Haunch of Lamb glacé en surprise.

Make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of thirty-six eggs, which bake in a very long mould; when cold cut it into the form of a haunch of lamb (or it may be baked in two separate pieces and afterwards joined together with the iceing), empty the interior, which again put into the cake to keep it in shape, mask it over with an iceing of a light gold colour, made by adding a little melted chocolate and cochineal; when dry and ready to serve moisten with some brandy and preserved strawberries, and fill with strawberry or vanilla ice (Nos. 1381, 1388), place a frill upon the knuckle-bone, which you have previously formed of pâte d’office, glaze it over with apricot marmalade and currant jelly mixed, pour a little melted currant jelly mixed with wine, in imitation of gravy, round and serve.

No. 1306. Shoulder of Lamb glacé en surprise

Is very good for a small party; make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of twelve eggs, bake it in a flat sauté-pan, and when done and cold form it into the shape of a shoulder, empty a little from the interior, fix on the knuckle, which you have formed of pâte d’office (No. 1137), and mask the whole over with nearly a white iceing to imitate a boiled shoulder of lamb; when dry and ready to serve dish it up with vanilla ice (No. 1381) in the interior, and round in imitation of mashed turnips.

No. 1307. Cotelettes d’Agneau à la Réforme en surprise aux Champignons.

Make a sponge-cake as directed for cotelettes de mouton en surprise (No. 1304), cut it into pieces of the same shape, but much smaller; mask them over lightly with apricot marmalade, and dip them into ratafia crumbs, it will give them a lighter appearance; form the bone with strips of blanched almonds, and dress them the reverse way on your dish upon a border of marmalade, melt some currant jelly in a stewpan, with which mix some syrup of pineapples, put in forty thin strips of pineapples, forty ditto of green angelica, and forty preserved cherries, pour it over the cotelettes, and when set and ready to serve fill the centre with a lemon ice (No. 1385), and garnish with some mushrooms of meringues (No. 1222).

No. 1308. Chapon en surprise glacé aux Fruits.

Make a sponge-cake of twenty eggs, bake it in a long roundish mould, or an old tin dish-cover; when done and quite cold form it with your knife into the shape of a roasted capon trussed, with the legs inside; form the pinions of the wings with pâte d’office, stick them to the sides in their proper position, then mask it over with a light chocolate iceing in which you have introduced a little prepared cochineal, to give it the colour as near as possible of a roast capon; you have previously emptied it, and again filled it to keep it in shape, but when perfectly dry again empty it and line the interior with orange marmalade, soak it with a little wine, fill the interior with an orange cream ice (No. 1386) flavoured with noyeau, turn it over upon a silver dish, garnish round with pears dressed as for poires au riz (No. 1277), mixing their syrup with a little apricot marmalade, and pouring it over them; you have made a croustade of pâte d’office, in imitation of the one of bread, in the form of a gondolière, upon which place a few strawberries, a peach, and cherries, which place at the head of the dish with silver atelettes of fruit upon it, and serve. To form a good imitation of a capon, you require to have a real one before you, or at least a fowl, if possible.

No. 1309. Petits Poussins en surprise à la Sutherland.

Make a sponge-cake of thirty eggs (No. 1369), and when finished stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter (melted) very gently, bake it in three oval moulds, each about the size of a large chicken; when quite cold cut each one into the shape and size of a spring chicken trussed as for boiling, (having a real one as a model,) empty the interiors, place it in again to keep them in shape, mask them all over with a white iceing (No. 1373) to which you have added a little brown brandy instead of lemon-juice; you have previously formed the claws of pâte d’office (No. 1137) and baked them, fix them at the sides in their proper positions and place them to dry, you have also made three cakes of Génoise paste (No. 1201) of the same size as the above, and when cold cut two of them into the form of Russian tongues, well trussed, and make them with a chocolate iceing as near as possible to the colour of real tongues, with the cake cut a croustade in imitation of a bread croustade, mask it with a very light chocolate iceing, and ornament it with small designs of puff paste baked very white, or gum paste, place it at the head of your dish; when ready to serve, fix three silver atelettes of fruits (see Plate) upon the top; again empty the interior of the imitation chickens and fill them with a crème plombière (No. 1332), place two of them with their tails towards the croustades, with a fine bunch of black grapes hanging from it, then the two imitation tongues, which glaze over with melted currant jelly, then the other imitation chicken between them, place the remainder of the crème plombière round and between, place a fine red strawberry with the stalk on here and there, and serve with a thickish custard in which you have introduced two glasses of noyeau over each.

No. 1310. Dindonneau en surprise à la Gondolièrs.

Make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of thirty eggs, which bake (in an old tin dish-cover) in a moderate oven; when done turn it out upon a sieve, and when quite cold cut it into the shape of a trussed turkey, (having a real one for a model, which may be used in the first course, these dishes only being appropriated to large dinners,) which mask over with a chocolate iceing to imitate as near as possible the colour of a roasted turkey, having previously emptied the interior, which again place in to keep its shape, form the claws with pâte d’office (No. 1137), and cover them with a little of the iceing made darker with a little more chocolate, make a nice croustade of Génoise paste (No. 1201), the shape of the head of a gondola, which fix at the head of the dish, again empty the cake, soak the interior with brandy and apricot marmalade, fill with an apricot cream half iced, turn over upon your dish, garnish round with a red mousseuse jelly in croutons, and small pears cut in halves and stewed as directed (No. 1145), glaze over with currant jelly melted with a little wine, and serve.

No. 1311. Peacock à la Louis Quatorze.

Make a cake of the same size as in the last, bake the same, and when done and cold cut in the shape of the body of a large bird, mask it over with a pinkish white iceing, rather thick, having previously emptied it; have ready blanched a quarter of a pound of pistachios (very green), make the neck and head of pâte d’office in two separate halves lengthwise, as directed for the swan, only giving the head the shape of a peacock, bake a light colour, and join them together with a paste made of whites of eggs and flour, fix it upon the dish with the same paste, having formed the bottom so that the body will adhere closely and unperceivedly to it, mask it with the same iceing, cut the pistachios in flat fillets, and stick them into the neck to form feathers, you have previously mixed a quantity of red and green sugar (No. 1376) together, which sprinkle thickly over the body of the bird; when dry, again empty the interior, which moisten with Malaga wine and brandy, fill with strawberry ice (No. 1388), turn over upon your dish, fitting it to the head and neck, form the wings with sucre filé (No. 1380), also the tail, fix the skins of some of the cherries upon the tail to imitate feathers. Any one perfect in sugar will form the tail open, which will produce a magnificent effect; have some very light jelly flavoured with gold water, (containing plenty of gold leaves,) chop it into rather small pieces, with which lightly cover the body of the bird; the crown of the head and eyes must be well imitated with sucre filé, a small black currant imitating the balls of the eyes, garnish round tastefully with croutons of the above jelly and serve.

No. 1312. Faisans en surprise glacé au Chocolat.

Make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of twenty eggs, which bake in two separate oval moulds; when cold cut them into the shape of two pheasants trussed as for roasting, empty each one as before, putting the pieces again in to keep them in shape, make the legs and pinions of the wings with pâte d’office (No. 1137), mask them over with chocolate iceing (No. 1374), imitating as near as possible the colour of roasted pheasants, making the legs darker than the body, imitate larding upon the breast with some blanched sweet almonds cut into thin strips of about equal sizes; when dry and ready to serve line the interiors with currant jelly, and fill with a crème glacée au chocolat (No. 1383), or au café Moka (No. 1382), turn them over upon your dish and garnish with some jelly (No. 1225), chopped and in croutons round; white strawberries and pieces of apples prepared as for the chartreuse de pommes (No. 1272), and soaked in brandy, may be served with the ice in the interior.

No. 1313. Maniveau de Champignons glacé en surprise.

Make a basket of pâte d’office (No. 1137), which is done by rolling out a piece of the paste to three quarters of an inch in thickness, with length and breadth corresponding to the size of your dish, place it in a baking-sheet, put it in a moderate oven, and when about half baked cut an odd number of holes all round near to the edge with a long vegetable cutter a quarter of an inch in diameter, then form a number of pegs of the same paste to fit into the holes when baked, and all of equal lengths, roll out a number of cords of the same paste as long as possible and the thickness of blanched macaroni, which plait round the pegs, going in and out one upon the other until you have reached the top and formed a rustic basket, let it stand some time to get dry, then bake it in a moderate oven; when done and cold glaze it over with some red currant jelly, dress a pineapple ice (No. 1384) in the centre in pyramid, which cover all over with mushrooms of meringues (No. 1222), building them in clusters as high as possible; garnish round with a gelée au rhum (No. 1231) chopped and in croutons, and serve.

No. 1314. Turban de Condé glacé à l’Ananas.

Make a pound of puff paste into condé as directed (No. 1183), make a thin border of any kind of marmalade upon a silver dish, on which dress the condé in turban, that is, standing upon end, one resting upon the other, dress a pineapple cream ice (No. 1384) in the centre in pyramid, garnish round with orange jelly in the skins of the oranges (No. 1237); cut in quarters and serve.

No. 1315. Bombe demi glacé à la Mogador.

Make a good vanilla ice as directed (No. 1381), well flavoured with maresquino, have a large round pewter ice-mould which opens in two halves, partly fill each half, leaving a hollow in the centre of each, which fill with all kinds of small fruits, grapes, strawberries, currants, Smyrna raisins, &c., soaked in maresquino, close the mould, (having it sufficiently filled to form a ball when turned out,) and bury it in ice and salt, then make a thin ornamented border of pâte d’office (No. 1137) an inch in height, which fix upon a silver dish and bake in a moderate oven, place it somewhere for the dish to get cold; when ready to serve, dip the mould into lukewarm water, and turn the ice quickly out in the centre of your dish, you have previously prepared some finely-spun sugar (sucre filé, No. 1380), with which form a fusee, stick it in the top of the ice, twisting it round, bringing the other end near the edge of the dish, pour half a pint of brandy in your dish outside of the border of paste, which set on fire at the moment of going to table; the fire will require to burn the sugar, which will give it quite the appearance of a fusee; it would, however, be better that the brandy should not be set on fire until it reached the dining-room.

No. 1316. Cérito’s Sultane Sylphe à la Fille de l’Orage.

Procure a half oval-pointed mould about fifteen inches in height, ten inches by eight in diameter at the bottom, and the size of a five-shilling piece at the top, which bury to the rim in ice with which you have mixed plenty of salt, hue the interior with a sheet of white paper, laying it in closely to fit the mould, have ready a pint of cream mixed rather stiffly, with which you have mixed a meringue mixture of three eggs, as for the biscuit glacé (No. 1318), spread it all over the interior of the mould to about an inch in thickness, place a cover over the mould made to fit tight, over which place some ice, and leave it one hour, when it will be quite frozen, take off the lid, have ready a nice cherry or strawberry cream ice (No. 1388), place a little at the bottom of the mould, upon which lay a few fresh strawberries, then more ice, proceeding thus until quite full, place the cover again over, fixing it tight, bury it in ice and salt, and leave it an hour, or till wanted, when dip it into very lukewarm water, turn it out upon your dish, take off the paper, have ready a silver atelette (see atelette of fruits in the Plate), upon which you have placed some fine fresh fruit, that is, a peach with a bunch of fine black grapes resting over, and a few red currants or strawberries beneath, which stick into the top, have ready some finely-spun sugar (sucre filé, No. 1380), which twine round lightly like rolls of gauze (see design), not, however, covering the whole of it, and at the moment of serving lay a fine bunch of black grapes upon each side on vine-leaves; have some very light gelée de Dantzic (No. 1226) chopped finely, with which garnish round, sprinkling some over the grapes, but not too heavy, and serve as quickly as possible. As soon as it is turned out of the mould you had better set the dish upon the ice and salt you took it from (pouring off all the water) whilst ornamenting, and it would be better to make a border of pâte d’office upon your dish as in the last, but smaller, to prevent it sliding about when carried to table, which would upset the garniture.

No. 1317. Gateau glacé à l’Eloise.

Bury a mould in ice as in the last, then whip a quart of double cream very stiff, to which add a very little powdered sugar and two glasses of noyeau, put it in a freezing-pot, and when about three parts frozen line the mould as in the last, make a custard with eight yolks of eggs as for vanilla ice (No. 1381), to which add a little clarified isinglass (No. 1372), stir it upon the ice, and when becoming thickish add two glasses of noyeau, half a pint of whipped cream, and half a pound of cherries, stoned, and passed in sugar as directed (No. 1144), only dry well before adding them to the custard, which must be kept as white as possible, place it in the centre of your mould, which cover up and bury in ice until wanted; when ready, dip the mould in lukewarm water, turn it out upon your dish, stick a few fine cherries here and there over it, prepare another custard of four yolks of eggs, which pour all over and serve. The garnishing of these dishes must be effected very quickly, as they require to be served the moment they are turned out.

No. 1318. Biscuit Mousseux glacé, en caisse.

Make a custard of six yolks of eggs as directed for crème au maresquin (No. 1251), but omitting three parts of the sugar; put into your freezing-pot, and when half frozen have ready the following preparation: boil a quarter of a pound of sugar au cassé (No. 1379), have ready five whites of eggs whipped very stiff, with which mix the sugar by degrees; when quite cold mix with the custard, adding half a pint of whipped cream and three glasses of any white liqueur, freeze the whole together, keeping the pot twisted until you have obtained a good consistency; have ready a number of small round paper cases,[17] place a band of paper round each, half an inch above the top, and fill with the above preparation; place them in a flat tin box, sprinkle ratafia crumbs upon the top of each, place the lid upon the box, which must close very tight, and bury it in ice and salt for six hours; when ready to serve, take them out of the box, detach the bands of paper from them, dress upon a napkin, and serve. They will have every appearance of having just left the oven.

No. 1319. Souffle glacé au Curaçoa.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only using curaçoa instead of a white liqueur; place it in a middling-sized silver soufflé-dish, surround it with a band of paper, sprinkle crushed ratafias over the top, place it in the box, which cover and bury in ice, and salt eight hours; when ready to serve take off the band of paper, and dress it upon a napkin on a silver dish.

No. 1320. Pouding Soufflé glacé à la Méphistopheles.

Proceed precisely as in the last, place in a dish of the same description, and whilst buried in ice make a cover from a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of four yolks of eggs, very firm, a large spoonful of which place upon a sheet of paper, forming it round, three inches in diameter, and the remainder in a paper cornet or horn, cut off the point of one, leaving a point the size of a sixpenny-piece, with which work a spiral line round the meringue until you have formed a cover large enough for the soufflé-case, sift sugar over it, and bake in a very slow oven; when done turn it gently over in your hand, take off the paper, empty the interior lightly, and place it to dry in a very slow oven (it might be made the day before); make a border of pâte d’office upon a silver dish as for the bombe glacé (No. 1315), bake in a warm oven; when ready to serve take the soufflé from the ice, take off the paper, stand it in a dish of ice and salt to reach the rim of the soufflé-case; place on the cover, which must be quite cold and crisp, and place it in the oven until the meringue cover is warm, when take it out, stand it in the centre of your dish, pour half a pint of brandy upon the dish outside of the border of paste, which set on fire upon its going into the dining-room.

No. 1321. Brioche.

Put four pounds of flour upon a marble slab, one pound of which place upon one side, with an ounce of German yeast dissolved in a gill of warm water in the centre, mix the yeast well with your fingers, add a little more water, and mix the flour into a stiffish but delicate paste, which roll up in the shape of a ball, cut an incision across it with a knife, place it in a basin well floured and put it into a warmish place for ten minutes or longer, until becoming very light, make a large hole in the centre of the remainder of the flour, in which put half an ounce of salt, half a gill of water, two pounds and a half of fresh butter, and sixteen eggs, mix the eggs and butter well together, and work in the flour by degrees, if too stiff add more eggs, the paste must be kept rather softish, press it out with, your hands by degrees, lay the leaven upon it, which spread over, bring the ends over with your knife, press it out again and fold over until well mixed, sprinkle some flour upon a clean cloth, fold the paste in it and let remain all night; when ready to use throw some flour upon your pastry slab, turn your paste out upon it and work it up together with your hands, then cut a piece, which mould into a ball with the hands, place it upon a piece of buttered paper on a baking-sheet, make an impression with your hand in the centre, mould another ball of the paste two thirds the size of the former, wet the former ball with a little water, fix the other upon it, press gently, egg over with a paste-brush, make a few incisions round with a knife, and put it in a moderate oven, (it will require about two hours baking, to try when done run a thin wooden skewer into it, if done it will come out perfectly dry,) bake of a nice gold colour. Many small cakes, rissoles, &c., are made from this paste. By buttering a middle-sized stewpan, putting a band of paper four inches in height round, and baking the paste in it, it will of itself make a remove, but of course requiring longer baking.

No. 1322. Baba.

This cake is made of the same description of paste as the last, but using six more eggs, as it requires to be softer, and working lightly with your hand about ten minutes before adding the leaven, to which add a teaspoonful of powdered saffron; you have also picked and cleaned a quarter of a pound of Smyrna raisins, half a pound of Malaga, a quarter of a pound of currants, and a little candied orange, lemon-peel, and citron, cut into thin slices, soak the whole in half a pint of Madeira wine and three glasses of brandy or rum, and mix with the paste, working together lightly with the hands, have buttered a large sponge-cake mould, or stewpan, place a band of paper three inches in height round the rim, put it into a warm place for two or three hours, or until raised nearly to the top of the mould, stand it upon a trivet in a warmish oven, and bake about three hours, ascertaining when done with a skewer, as in the last; your paste must not be made too thin, or all the fruit would fall to the bottom and spoil its appearance. Take off the band of paper, turn the baba over upon a hair sieve, and serve either hot or cold. Previously to mixing the fruit with the paste you may line the interior of the mould very thinly with some of it, mix the fruit with the remainder and fill, this process will prevent the cake sticking to the mould, as the fruit will sometimes cause it to do, but gives rather too much the appearance of brioche when on the table.

No. 1323. Brioche au Fromage.

Make the paste as directed (No. 1321), but rather softer, and when ready for use mix in a pound of Gruyère cheese cut into small dice, with half a pound of grated Parmesan and a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, mould it as for the brioche, put it into a buttered stewpan as there directed, egg lightly, place in a moderate oven, and bake it about two hours of a fine gold colour, (but try whether done or not as before,) and serve very hot. The same paste with cheese may likewise be served in small cakes, making fifteen or sixteen from the same quantity of paste, or cutting up a large one with different shape-cutters into the same number of pieces, and placing them in a hot oven upon a baking-sheet (when the first course comes off the table) until very hot and becoming rather brown, dress them upon a napkin on your dish, and send very hot to table, with another napkin over them, which should not be removed until placed upon the table.

No. 1324. Brioche frite au Vin de Madère.

Make a brioche as directed (No. 1321), which when cold cut into pieces a quarter of an inch in thickness, and of the shape and size of small fillets of fowl, have ready four yolks of eggs in a dish, with which you have mixed a gill of good cream, have also clarified half a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of which put into a deep sauté-pan over the fire; when hot dip eight pieces of the brioche into the eggs and cream quickly, and fry them in the sauté-pan of a light yellow colour, proceeding thus until they are all done, dress them in crown upon your dish on a border of apricot marmalade, and place it in the oven to keep hot, put half a pound of the marmalade in a stewpan, and when melted add a pint of Madeira wine; when boiling pour over the brioche and serve very hot. The remainder of a brioche or baba from a preceding dinner may be used for the above purpose. In serving a brioche or baba to table as a remove I strongly recommend the above method, as very few, even after a sumptuous dinner, could resist the temptations of this delicious dish, so well blended with the apricot and Madeira, whilst brioche or baba served entire cannot invigorate the appetite, and is not, in my opinion, exactly the kind of food to suit an already nearly satisfied stomach. They are, however, excellent for breakfasts, luncheons, and ball suppers, where every person composes their meal according to their fancy.

No. 1325. Nougat aux Fraises.

Blanch three quarters of a pound of sweet almonds in boiling water, and a quarter of a pound of pistachios, separate, take off the skins and cut each almond into five or six fillets, and the pistachios in two, place them upon a sheet of paper and dry in a warm oven until the almonds become a light straw colour, but taking the pistachios out earlier, then put a pound of sifted sugar into a copper pan and stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon until melted, then throw in your almonds, (which must be hot,) and stir until well mixed, taking it off the fire, you have previously slightly oiled a large Savoy-cake mould, put in part of the mixture, which press to the sides with a lemon, then the remainder in small pieces, pressing the whole to the sides, forming it into one piece the thickness of a five-shilling piece, and when cold turn it out from the shape upon a dish, whip a quart of cream very stiff, which dress upon the dish you intend serving the nougat on, in pyramid, place some very fine strawberries upon it and the nougat over, have a little sugar boiled to the seventh degree (No. 1379), have also a few very fine strawberries, with the stalks on, as the green is an improvement, dip the stalks of the strawberries into the sugar, place one upon the top and the others all over, at the distance of two inches apart, fixing them in a drooping position, it is then ready to serve. The above makes a handsome remove, the pistachios, almonds, and strawberries correcting the taste of the melted sugar; if not convenient, the pistachios may be omitted, but adding more almonds in proportion. The sugar may be flavoured with lemon vanilla or candied orange-flowers.

No. 1326. Croque en bouche.

Make some paste as directed for pâte à choux (No. 1194), not, however, using so much butter, and adding a little more flour, drying it well in the stewpan, and adding sufficient eggs to make it of the same consistency as there directed, flavouring with sugar upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon, form about a hundred and fifty small balls the size of marbles, upon two baking-sheets, egg them over and bake very dry in a moderate oven of a light gold colour, then have some sugar boiled to the seventh degree (No. 1379), oil a large Savoy-cake mould lightly, place one of the petits choux upon a trussing-needle, dip it in the sugar, fix it at the bottom in the centre of your mould, then dip in the remainder one after the other, placing them round the interior of the mould, one adhering to the other until the mould is filled up, (to facilitate the building of them have your sugar in two different sugar-pans, being careful that it does not grain, for if the sugar is not quite clear and crisp it would stick to the mould, and your croque en bouche tumble to pieces,) when quite cold try gently with both hands to move it, just enough to detach it, turn it out carefully upon a napkin, and serve with whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar under it. The above when well made makes a pretty remove, but scarcely fit to eat, it being a mass of sugar without any relief to the palate. Although not a great admirer of nougat, the almonds certainly form a relief; a croque en bouche of oranges or any other fruit is a little more commendable, but is very difficult to succeed with, and do not in reality repay in quality the trouble they give; such dishes, in my opinion, being fit only for children who are fond of sugar-plums.

No. 1327. Meringue Pagodatique à la Chinoise.

Have ready prepared a meringue mixture of fifteen eggs (No. 1218), with which make six rings upon paper, (laying them out with a paper cornet or funnel, in the bottom of which you have cut a hole of the circumference of a shilling,) the three largest to be eight inches in diameter, the next one six and a half inches, the next five, and the smallest three and a half inches in diameter, and the whole of them an inch in thickness, have some of the preparation in a small paper cornet with a hole at the bottom of the size of a pea, with which ornament the rings, laying small fillets of it over them, then with the large paper cornet lay out four other pieces of an octagonal form, (to imitate the top of a Chinese pagoda, which may easily be accomplished if the mixture is firm, as it may then be laid out into any shape desired,) leaving a ring in the centre, making the largest rather larger than the largest ring, diminishing the size in proportion to the other rings, and piping them according to fancy with the smaller paper cornet with which also form sixteen little bells by pressing an upright dot from it upon paper, and pulling the cornet up quickly, making the four largest half an inch in height and a quarter of an inch in width, and making each four a size smaller in proportion; bake the whole of the preparations (first sifting sugar over them) upon boards in a very slow oven, scarcely allowing them to obtain any colour; when baked and crisp place them in a hot closet until perfectly dry, when take them out, wet the back of the papers lightly with a paste-brush and carefully detach the meringues from them, which again put into the hot closet until quite crisp, then fix the bells, the largest upon the largest octagonal piece at the corners, and the smaller upon the smaller pieces, by running a needle with a piece of white silk through them, and fastening them with a little boiled sugar or isinglass when upon the point of setting; when ready to serve place the three largest rings upon your dish, filling the middle with some whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar (No. 1377), then the largest octagonal piece, which also fill with cream, then the next sized ring, and so on until you have built the whole up, finishing with the smallest octagonal at the top, you have also made and baked a pointed meringue of the shape of half a lemon, to fit into the hole at the top, having it decorated to correspond, which place upon the top and serve immediately, or it would become damp, and eat toughish instead of crisp.

No. 1328. Meringue à la Parisienne.

Prepare a meringue mixture of ten whites of eggs, with which make ten large rings, each about eight inches in diameter, and half an inch in thickness, laying them out upon paper; pipe them in stripes with the paper cornet, and sift sugar over, let them remain ten minutes, then shake off the superfluous sugar, lay them upon boards, and place them in a slow oven to bake; when of a light brown colour and quite set, put them into a hot closet to dry, then wet the back of the papers lightly with a paste-brush, from which carefully detach the rings, place them again in the hot closet to dry, and when ready to serve pipe them with bright red currant jelly between the stripes of meringue, dish them one upon the other, filling them with whipped cream, and serve as quickly as possible afterwards, with a few strawberries upon the top. A meringue mixture may also be formed into various other shapes, according to fancy.

No. 1329. Nesselrode Pudding.

Blanch four dozen chestnuts in boiling water, skin and place them in the screen, when dry take them out, and when cold put them into a mortar with one pound of sugar, and half a stick of vanilla, pound the whole well together, and sift it through a fine wire sieve, put it into a stewpan with the yolks of twelve eggs, beat them well together; in another stewpan have a quart of milk, when boiling pour it over the other ingredients, mixing well, and stir over a sharp fire until it begins to thicken and adheres to the back of the spoon, when lay a tammie upon a large dish, pour the mixture in and rub it through with two wooden spoons; when cold place it in a freezing-pot and freeze as directed (No. 1381), when frozen have a large high ice-mould, which closes hermetically, have also two ounces of currants, and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, soaked in four glasses of maresquino from the previous day, with four ounces of candied citron cut in dice, put them into the freezing-pot with a pint of whipped cream and half the meringue preparation directed in (No. 1318); freeze the whole well together and fill your mould, which bury in ice and salt until ready to serve, when dip it into lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish.

No. 1330. Pouding de Cabinet glacé.

Have ready prepared, and rather stale, a sponge-cake as directed (No. 1369), which cut into slices half an inch in thickness, and rather smaller than the mould you intend making the pudding in, soak them well with noyeau brandy, then lay some preserved dry cherries at the bottom of the mould, with a few whole ratafias, lay one of the slices over, then more cherries and ratafias, proceeding thus until the mould is three parts full; then have ready a quart of the custard, as prepared for crème au maresquin (No. 1251), omitting half the quantity of isinglass, pour it lukewarm into your mould, which close hermetically and bury in ice and salt, where let it remain at least two hours; when ready to serve dip it in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish; you have made about half a pint of custard, which keep upon ice, pour over the pudding when ready to serve, and sprinkle a few chopped pistachios over.

No. 1331. Glace Meringue au four.

Make a pineapple cream ice as directed (No. 1384), and when well frozen have ready a plain oval ice-mould, place the cream in it, filling it quite tight, close and bury it in ice and salt until five minutes before ready to serve, then dip it into lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish, which bury up to the rim in ice and salt upon a baking-sheet, have ready a preparation of meringue as directed for petits biscuits glacés, (No. 1318), with which cover it over, place it in a warm oven a minute, just setting the meringue, which will blister and brown slightly, and serve immediately.

No. 1332. Plombière.

Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, with six or eight bitter ones, when dry and cold place them in a mortar with three quarters of a pound of sugar, and ten or twelve leaves of candied orange-flowers, pound well, sift through a wire sieve, and place it in a stewpan with the yolks of nine eggs, beat them well together, then in another stewpan have boiling a pint and a half of milk, which pour over the other ingredients by degrees, keeping it stirred, place it upon the fire, stirring until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon, rub it through a tammie, add two glasses of noyeau; when cold put it into your freezing-pot to freeze (see No. 1381), and when half frozen add a pint and a half of whipped cream, when quite frozen fill a mould, and serve as for the Nesselrode pudding.

No. 1333. Plombières Mousseuses à l’Orange.

Prepare about three parts of the quantity of plombière ice as directed in the last, to which, when half frozen, add a pint and a half of whipped orange jelly (No. 1236) just upon the point of setting, beat the whole well together with the spatula, working it until well frozen; have a dozen and a half of oranges, peeled, quartered, and passed in sugar as directed for vol-au-vent (No. 1147), and place them in a basin upon ice; when ready to serve make a border of patisserie d’amande (No. 1183) upon your dish, in the centre of which put a little of the plombière, then a layer of oranges, then plombière and oranges again, proceeding thus and finishing in pyramid; garnish round with a little of the orange jelly (clear), chopped and in croutons, and serve.

No. 1334. Gateaux de Fruit à la Gelée d’Orange mousseuse.

Make a chartreuse of fruit as directed (No. 1269) in a large oval mould, having a quantity of fruit left; have also about a quart of orange jelly (No. 1236), which place upon ice in a bowl, whisking it until upon the point of setting, when place a layer of it in the chartreuse, then a layer of the fruit, the jelly, and so on until quite filled, place it upon ice, and when set and ready to serve dip in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish; serve garnished round with orange jelly in the skins of the oranges (No. 1237), cut in quarters after it has set.

No. 1335. Gateau Soufflé à l’Essence de Ponche.

Break ten eggs, put the whites in a copper bowl, and the yolks in a basin, with four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, four of crushed ratafias, two of potato flour, a little salt, and a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers, beat well together, whip the whites, which stir in lightly with the mixture; well butter and bread-crumb the interior of an oval plain mould, butter also and bread-crumb a band of paper three inches broad, which tie round at the top of the mould, pour in the mixture, and half an hour before ready to serve stand it in a moderate oven (it will take about the above time to bake), when done turn it out upon your dish; have ready a custard of three yolks of eggs, made as for crème au maresquin (No. 1251), to which you have added two glasses of essence of punch, pour round the gateau and serve.

The above mixture may be baked in twelve small moulds and dressed in pyramid, but then they would require more sauce.

OF LARGE SOUFFLES FOR REMOVES.

Soufflés when well-made are excellent removes for the winter season, but I generally strive to avoid them in the summer, as they are not, in my opinion, at all suitable for that season of the year, for which reason I have introduced the new soufflé glacé, which, by pleasing the eye, and being more refreshing to the palate, cannot fail to give general satisfaction.

No. 1336. Soufflé à la Vanille.

Prepare a crust or croustade of pâte fine (No. 1136), or water paste, by lining a raised pie-mould with it, filling with bread-crumbs, and finishing the edges as for a raised pie; bake it (of a very light brown colour) about an hour in a moderate oven, when done empty out all the bread-crumbs without taking it out of the mould, then tie a band of buttered paper (four inches wide) round the top, and put it by until wanted. Put half a pound of butter in a stewpan, with which mix three quarters of a pound of flour without melting it, in another stewpan have rather more than a quart of milk, into which, when boiling, put two sticks of vanilla, place a cover upon the stewpan and let it remain until half cold, then take out the vanilla, and pour the milk upon the butter and flour, stir over a sharp fire, boiling it five minutes, then stir in quickly the yolks of ten eggs, and sweeten with half a pound of sugar; when cold, and an hour and a quarter before you are ready to serve, whip the whites of the ten eggs very stiff, stir them in with the mixture lightly, pour it into the croustade, and bake about an hour in a moderate oven, if going too fast, and liable to be done before required, open the oven door, as it ought to be served the moment it is done; when ready to serve take it from the oven, detach the band of paper, take it from the mould, dress it upon a napkin on a dish, and serve immediately.

These soufflés may be baked in a silver soufflé-case, if preferred, they will take considerable less time in baking, but fall quicker after being taken from the oven; any liqueur or spirits even may be introduced in soufflés of this description if approved of.

No. 1337. Soufflé à la Fleur d’Orange.

Proceed exactly as in the last, but infusing an ounce of candied orange-flowers in the milk instead of the vanilla.

No. 1338. Soufflé au Café vierge.

Proceed as for the soufflé à la vanille, omitting the vanilla, and procuring two ounces of green coffee, which place in a stewpan over a sharp fire, keeping them moved until of a very light brown colour, then throw them into the milk when boiling, cover over until half cold, and finish as before directed, passing the milk through a sieve.

No. 1339. Soufflé à la Crème de Riz

Is made by using ground rice instead of the common flour, finishing the same, and using any of the flavours directed in the three last.

No. 1340. Soufflé au Citron.

Proceed as directed for soufflé à la vanille, but infusing the rind of two lemons, free from pith, in the milk instead of the vanilla.

No. 1341. Soufflé au Macaroni.

Have half a pound of macaroni blanched as directed (No. 130), lay it upon a cloth to drain, and cut it into small pieces, the eighth of an inch in thickness; make half the preparation as directed for soufflé à la vanille, but using an infusion of an ounce of bitter almonds; when it becomes thick over the fire stir in the macaroni, and when again nearly boiling, the yolks of ten eggs, when cold whip the whites, which add to the other ingredients, and finish as where previously directed.

No. 1342. Soufflé au Tapioca.

Put a half a pound of tapioca in a stewpan, with three pints of milk and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and when boiling add the rind of two lemons, free from pith, tied in a bunch, boil until the tapioca is rather stiff and well done, then take out the lemon and stir in the yolks of twelve eggs very quickly, stir another minute over the fire to thicken a little, and put by until cold; when ready, whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, stir them lightly with the tapioca, bake and serve as for the other description of soufflés.

No. 1343. Soufflé au Rhum.

Break the yolks of twelve eggs in a basin, to which add half a pound of sifted sugar, beat well with a wooden spoon until becoming quite thick and whitish; when stir in two glasses of rum and an ounce of potato flour; whisk the whites of the eggs very stiff, mix them gently with the mixture, put it upon the dish you intend serving it on, shaping in pyramid with a knife; and a quarter of an hour before serving place it in a moderate oven, when done pour a little rum round, which set on fire and serve immediately. Soufflés au maresquin, noyeau, curaçoa, or whiskey, are made precisely as the above, omitting the rum, adding two glasses of one or the other liqueurs instead, and serving without the fire round it.

No. 1344. Omelette Soufflée.

Proceed as described in the last, but omitting the rum or liqueurs, and flavouring with three tablespoonfuls of orange-flower-water, or rubbing the rind of a lemon upon the sugar previous to pounding and mixing (or vanilla sugar, No. 1377, might be used); place the soufflé upon the dish, bake a quarter of an hour, and serve. These kinds of soufflés are much more simple in their fabrication than the others, and much quicker done; their greatest difficulty is the whipping of the eggs, which must be very stiff; a little practice would, however, soon enable you to manage them; the best method is to put them into a copper bowl with a pinch of salt, and commence whipping very slowly, then quicker and quicker by degrees, until they adhere like feathers to the whisk. These soufflés may likewise be baked in a silver soufflé-dish, by tying a band of buttered paper round to bake it, which detach at the time of serving.

No. 1345. Omelette Soufflée à l’Antiquaire.

Though the last-mentioned article has received the name of omelette soufflée, it has no particular right to the name; for as there is no making an omelette without eggs, so is there no making an omelette soufflée without an omelette-pan; I do not, therefore, intend entirely to forsake the old-fashioned method. The mixture is prepared precisely as the last, but the appearance and flavour are very different, being produced by the different method of cooking them; put an ounce of butter into a very clean omelette-pan over the fire, when melted, pour in half the preparation, place it over a very brisk fire a few seconds, then twist it round in the pan, which give a jerk, tossing the omelette half way over, stand it over the fire again, give the pan another jerk, tossing the omelette again over, and turn it out upon your dish, set it in the oven and proceed the same with the remainder of the preparation, which when done turn over upon the other, leave it in the oven about a quarter of an hour, sprinkle sugar over, salamander and serve very quickly. The butter the soufflé is fried in gives it a superior flavour to the last.

No. 1346. Omelette Soufflée à la Crème.

Proceed as in the last, deducting two of the whites of eggs, and adding a gill of whipped cream, fry and serve as above.

No. 1347. Soufflé au Gingembre.

This is a very excellent remove for a party of gentlemen, make a preparation as for soufflé à la vanille (No. 1336), adding a little syrup, mixing a quarter of a pound of fresh preserved ginger with it, cut into thin slices, add two more whites of eggs to the preparation, which bake in a croustade as directed where above referred to.

No. 1348. Soufflé au Cerises.

Prepare a soufflé mixture as before, giving it the flavour of orange-flowers; when the whites of eggs are well mixed, add a pound of cherries prepared thus: procure them not too ripe, take out the stones, and put them into a sugar-pan with half a pound of sugar, stew them until surrounded with a thickish syrup, then turn them out upon a sieve to dry, stir them into the soufflé lightly, pour in your croustade, and bake it a short time longer, as the cherries will prevent the soufflé rising so quickly.

No. 1349. Soufflé au jus d’Orange et au Zeste praliné.

Prepare a soufflé mixture as before, but when you pour in the milk add likewise the juice and pulp of eight oranges, having previously rubbed the rind of one of them upon two ounces of sugar, pound it fine, place it in the hot closet to dry, and add it as extra sugar to the soufflé, bake and serve as before; a gill of milk less must be used in the above on account of the orange-juice, it would otherwise be too moist.

No. 1350. Biscuits Soufflés à la Crème.

Put the yolks of ten eggs in a basin, and the whites in a copper bowl, add half a pound of sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon previous to pounding, beat it well with the yolks of the eggs, then add half a pint of cream well whipped and ten ounces of flour; stir all together lightly, whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, and stir them into the preparation; have ready a dozen and a half of small paper cases, fill each one three parts full, and fifteen minutes before serving place them in a moderate oven; when done shake sugar over, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve.

No. 1351. Fondue au Parmesan et Gruyère.

Put half a pound of butter and three quarters of a pound of flour in a stewpan, mix them well together (without melting the butter) with a wooden spoon, then add rather more than a quart of boiling milk, stir over the fire, boil twenty minutes, then add the yolks of ten eggs (stir in well), a pound of grated Parmesan, and half a pound of grated Gruyère cheese; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter do. of pepper, and half a saltspoonful of cayenne; if too thick add two or three whole eggs to give it the consistency of a soufflé, whip the ten whites of egg firm, stir them gently into the mixture, have ready a croustade prepared as for the soufflé (No. 1336), pour in the above mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven; it will require half an hour longer than the soufflé; dish and serve the same.

No. 1352. Fondue à la Napolitaine.

Prepare three fourths of the mixture as in the last, but previous to adding the whites of eggs stir in a quarter of a pound of good macaroni blanched as directed (No. 130) and cut into pieces an inch in length; add the whites, bake, and serve as before.

No. 1353. Petites Fondues au Pâte d’Italie.

Blanch a quarter of a pound of any description of Italian paste in boiling water a few minutes, strain it upon a silk sieve until a little dry, put an ounce of butter and a spoonful of flour, mix well together, then add half a pint of boiling milk; stir over the fire until thickish, add your paste, stir it a few minutes longer over the fire, then add a quarter of a pound of Stilton cheese in small lumps, and a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan; season with a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, add six yolks of eggs, stir it another minute until the eggs are partially set, and when cold whip the whites very stiff; mix them well in, fill small paper cases with it, bake a quarter of an hour in a moderate oven, and serve very hot.

No. 1354. Fondue (simple method).

Put two ounces of Gruyère and two ounces of Parmesan cheese (grated) into a basin, with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, add the yolks of six eggs, with half a pound of butter melted (mix well), whip the whites of the six eggs, stir gently into the other ingredients, fill small paper cases with it, bake about a quarter of an hour in a moderate oven, dress upon a napkin, and serve very hot.

No. 1355. Petites Fondues (en caisse) au Stilton.

Put six ounces of butter and half a pound of flour in a stewpan, rub well together with a wooden spoon, then add a quart of warm milk, stir over the fire a quarter of an hour, then add the yolks of eight eggs, three quarters of a pound of grated Parmesan, and half a pound of Stilton cheese in small dice, season rather highly with pepper, salt, and cayenne, add the white of the eggs whipped very stiff, which stir in lightly; have a dozen and a half of small paper cases, fill each one three parts full, place them in a moderate oven, bake about twenty minutes; when done dress them upon a napkin on your dish, and serve very hot.

No. 1356. Ramequins.

Put a gill of water in a stewpan, to which add two ounces of Gruyère and the same quantity of Parmesan cheese (grated), two ounces of butter, a little cayenne pepper, and salt if required, set it upon the fire, and when boiling stir in two or three spoonfuls of flour; keep stirring over the fire until the paste becomes dryish and the bottom of the stewpan quite white, then add three or four eggs by degrees, until forming a paste like pâte à choux (No. 1194), butter a baking-sheet well, and lay the paste out in pieces upon it with a tablespoon, making them long, and half the size of the bowl of the spoon; egg over, and lay a small piece of Gruyère cheese upon each, put them into the oven about twenty minutes before they are required; bake them a little crisp, and serve very hot, dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.

No. 1357. Petits Ramequins au feuilletage.

Make half a pound of paste (No. 1132), which roll very thin, have ready some grated Parmesan and Gruyère cheese mixed, throw half a handful over the paste, which fold in three, roll it out to the same thickness again, cover again with cheese, proceeding thus until you have used the whole of the cheese (half a pound), then cut them into any shapes you like with pastry cutters, set on a wet baking-sheet, egg them over, bake a nice colour in a moderate oven, dress in pyramid upon a napkin on a dish, and serve very hot.

No. 1358. Diablotins au Gruyère.

Put a gill of milk in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, when boiling stir in two spoonfuls of flour, keep stirring over the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is dry, then add four eggs by degrees, half a pound of Gruyère, and half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese; mix well in, season with pepper, salt, and cayenne rather highly, mould the paste into little balls with the forefinger against the side of the stewpan containing it, drop them into very hot lard; fry of a nice light brown, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve very hot.

No. 1359. Croquettes de Macaroni au Fromage.

Put two quarts of water, with a little salt and a small piece of butter into a stewpan, and when boiling add half a pound of macaroni, which boil until tender, drain it upon a sieve, and when cold cut it into pieces a quarter of an inch in length, put them into a stewpan with half a pint of béchamel sauce, a little cayenne pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; let simmer a few minutes until rather thick, stirring it gently occasionally, then add half a pound of grated Parmesan and Gruyère cheese (or good common cheese may be used), turn gently a few minutes longer over the fire, take it off, stir in the yolks of four eggs quickly, stir another minute over the fire to set the eggs, and pour out upon a dish until quite cold, then form it into olive-shaped pieces, rather larger than walnuts, or into pieces of the shape of pears, or into croquettes two inches long, the thickness of your finger; have three eggs well beaten upon a plate, into which dip them, roll them over, then throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, pat them gently with your knife, dip again into eggs and bread-crumbs, place them in a wire basket, and fry in very hot lard; dress them in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve very hot. If the preparation is well prepared, once bread-crumbing would be sufficient.

Macaroni à l’Italienne.

Boil half a pound of macaroni as above, when done lay it on a sieve to dry for one minute, put it in a pan with four spoonfuls of white sauce, add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a little cayenne; toss the macaroni over the fire; when boiling, add two ounces each of grated Parmesan and Gruyère cheese, toss round and round until well mixed, then serve with a gill of very strong gravy around it.

Macaroni au Gratin.

Proceed the same as above, but after you have put the macaroni on the dish, omit the gravy, and cover it slightly with bread-crumbs, and about the same quantity of Parmesan cheese, grated, a little butter over, and then put in a hot oven for a quarter of an hour, if not hot enough, pass the salamander over it to give it a nice brownish colour, and serve very hot.

Macaroni à la Napolitaine.

Boil half a pound of the best quality of macaroni for half an hour (as at No. 1369), when tender, lay one quarter of it on the dish you intend to serve, have ready two ounces of grated Parmesan, which you divide into four parts, to lay over each layer of macaroni, then put over it two tablespoonfuls of strong gravy, made of half glaze and consommé; put the dish in the oven for ten minutes, and serve very hot.

The real Italian method (called à l’Estoufade).

Boil and proceed as before, but make the gravy as follows, and use it instead of the preceding:--Take two pounds of rump of beef, larded through, put in a small stewpan with one quarter of a pound of butter, fry gently for one hour, turning almost continually, when forming a glaze add a pint of broth, let simmer another hour very gently indeed, take the fat off, and use that gravy instead of that above described; a little tomato sauce may be introduced if handy; serve the beef at the same time in a separate dish.

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