VIII. DAILY LIFE
(WOMEN.)
Receiving in bed -- A lady's life -- A fine lady's diary -- Walking -- Visiting -- Tea-table scandal -- Shopping -- Daily church -- Pets -- Dancing -- Books on ditto -- A dancing master.
And how did the women fare? We have seen that among the middle classes the domestic virtues were encouraged and highly extolled, and to be a 'notable housewife' was a legitimate and proper ambition; but how did the fine-lady class spend their time? Were their lives more usefully employed than those of the beaus? Addison says that he remembers the time when ladies received visits in bed, and thus graphically describes the custom:[123] 'It was then looked upon as a piece of Ill breeding for a Woman to refuse to see a Man, because she was not stirring; and a Porter would have been thought unfit for his Place, that could have made so awkward an Excuse. As I love to see everything that is new, I once prevailed upon my Friend Will Honeycomb to carry me along with him to one of these Travelled Ladies, desiring him at the same time, to present me as a Foreigner who could not speak English, so that I might not be obliged to bear a part in the Discourse. The Lady, tho' willing to appear undrest, had put on her best Looks, and painted herself for our Reception. Her Hair appeared in a very nice Disorder, as the Night Gown which was thrown upon her Shoulders was ruffled with great Care.'
[Footnote 123: Spectator, No. 45.]
There is an amusing little pamphlet--not a chap book proper[124]--which, though undated, bears internal evidence of the time of its birth, which gives an account of a fine lady's life.
[Footnote 124: The English Lady's Catechism. I have seen the original edition, dated 1703.--J. A.]
'How do you employ your time now?'
'I lie in Bed till Noon, dress all the Afternoon, Dine in the Evening, and play at Cards till Midnight.'
'How do you spend the Sabbath?
'In Chit Chat.'
'What do you talk of?'
'New Fashions and New Plays.'
'How often do you go to Church?'
'Twice a year or oftener, according as my Husband gives me new Cloaths.'
'Why do you go to Church when you have new Cloaths?'
'To see other Peoples Finery, and to show my own, and to laugh at those scurvy, out of fashion Creatures that come there for Devotion.'
'Pray, Madam, what Books do you read?'
'I read lewd Plays and winning Romances.'
'Who is it you love?'
'Myself.'
'What! nobody else?'
'My Page, my Monkey, and my Lap Dog.'
'Why do you love them?'
'Why, because I am an English Lady, and they are Foreign Creatures; my Page from Genoa, my Monkey from the East Indies, and my Lap Dog from Vigo.'[125]
[Footnote 125: This settles the date as being early in Anne's reign, as the galleons were captured at Vigo in 1702, and everything from Vigo was fashionable.]
'Would not they have pleased you as well if they had been English?'
'No, for I hate everything that Old England brings forth, except it be the temper of an English Husband, and the liberty of an English wife; I love the French Bread, French Wines, French Sauces, and a French Cook; in short, I have all about me French or Foreign, from my Waiting Woman to my Parrot.'
And Addison tells much the same story when he gives a portion of the diary of a lady of quality.[126]
[Footnote 126: Spectator, No. 323.]
'Wednesday From Eight 'till Ten. Drank two Dishes of Chocolate in Bed, and fell asleep after 'em.
'From Ten to Eleven. Eat a Slice of Bread and Butter, drank a Dish of Bohea, read the Spectator.
'From Eleven to One. At my Toilet, try'd a new Head. Gave orders for Veney to be combed and washed. Mem. I look best in Blue.
'From One till Half an Hour after Two. Drove to the Change. Cheapned a couple of Fans.
'Till Four. At Dinner. Mem. Mr. Froth passed by in his new Liveries.
'From Four to Six. Dressed, paid a Visit to old lady Blithe and her Sister, having heard they were gone out of Town that Day.
'From Six to Eleven. At Basset. Mem. Never set again upon the Ace of Diamonds.
'Thursday. From Eleven at Night to Eight in the Morning. Dream'd that I punted to Mr. Froth.
'From Eight to Ten. Chocolate. Read two Acts in Aurenzebe[127] abed.
[Footnote 127: By Dryden.]
'From Ten to Eleven. Tea Table. Sent to borrow Lady Faddle's Cupid for Veney. Read the Play-Bills. Received a letter from Mr. Froth. Mem. Locked it up in my strong box.
'Rest of the Morning. Fontange the Tire woman, her Account of my Lady Blithe's Wash. Broke a Tooth in my little Tortoise-shell Comb. Sent Frank to know how my Lady Hectick rested after her Monky's leaping out at Window. Looked pale. Fontange tells me my Glass is not true. Dressed by Three.
'From Three to Four. Dinner cold before I sat down.
'From Four to Eleven. Saw Company. Mr. Froth's opinion of Milton. His Account of the Mohocks. His Fancy for a Pincushion. Picture in the Lid of his Snuff-box. Old Lady Faddle promises me her Woman to cut my Hair. Lost five Guineas at Crimp.
'Twelve a Clock at Night. Went to Bed.
'Friday. Eight in the Morning. Abed. Read over all Mr. Froth's Letters. Cupid and Veney.
'Ten a Clock. Stay'd within all day--not at home.
'From Ten to Twelve. In Conference with my Mantua Maker. Sorted a Suit of Ribbands. Broke my Blue China Cup.
'From Twelve to One. Shut myself up in my Chamber, practised Lady Betty Modely's Skuttle.
'One in the Afternoon. Called for my flowered Handkerchief. Worked half a Violet Leaf in it. Eyes aked and Head out of Order. Threw by my Work, and read over the remaining Part of Aurenzebe.
'From Three to Four. Dined.
'From Four to Twelve. Changed my Mind, dressed, went abroad, and play'd at Crimp till Midnight. Found Mrs. Spitely at home. Conversation: Mrs. Brilliant's Necklace false Stones. Old Lady Loveday going to be married to a young Fellow that is not worth a Groat. Miss Prue gone into the Country. Tom Townley has red Hair. Mem. Mrs. Spitely whispered in my Ear that she had something to tell me about Mr. Froth, I am sure it is not true.
'Between Twelve and One. Dreamed that Mr. Froth lay at my Feet and called me Indamora.[128]
[Footnote 128: The Heroine in Aurenzebe.]
'Saturday. Rose at Eight a Clock in the Morning. Sate down to my Toilet.
'From Eight to Nine. Shifted a Patch for Half an Hour before I could determine it. Fixed it above my left Eye-brow.
'From Nine to Twelve. Drank my Tea and Dressed.
'From Twelve to Two. At Chappel. A great deal of good Company. Mem. The third Air in the new Opera. Lady Blithe dressed frightfully.
'From Three to Four. Dined. Miss Kitty called upon me to go to the Opera before I was risen from Table.
'From Dinner to Six. Drank Tea. Turned off a Footman for being rude to Veney.
'Six a Clock. Went to the Opera. I did not see Mr. Froth till the beginning of the second Act. Mr. Froth talked to a gentleman in a black Wig. Bowed to a Lady in the Front Box. Mr. Froth and his Friend clapp'd Nicolini in the third Act. Mr. Froth cried out Ancora. Mr. Froth led me to my Chair. I think he squeezed my Hand.
'Eleven at Night. Went to Bed. Melancholy Dreams. Me-thought Nicolini said he was Mr. Froth.
'Sunday. Indisposed.
'Monday. Eight a Clock. Waked by Miss Kitty. Aurenzebe lay upon the Chair by me. Kitty repeated without Book the Eight best Lines in the Play. Went in our Mobbs to the dumb Man,[129] according to Appointment. Told me that my Lover's Name began with a G. Mem. The Conjurer was within a Letter of Mr. Froth's Name,' &c.
[Footnote 129: Duncan Campbell, who pretended to tell fortunes by second sight.]
Virtually, these two different versions of how an idle woman passed her time agree remarkably well, and they let a whole flood of daylight into the inner life of the time--on what they breakfasted when they dined, what time the opera began, etc. Apart from opera, the play, and cards, how were the females of the middle class to amuse themselves of an evening? Say they had been busy all day, the evenings had to be passed somehow. There was very little of that domesticity and home life of which we are so proud, for the men spent their evenings at their club, their coffee-house, the tavern, or the play, so they had to amuse themselves with such innocent games as hot cockles, questions and commands, mottoes, similes, cross purposes, blindman's buff, and a game called 'Parson has lost his Cloak,' or else 'Bouts rimés,' which consisted of giving four terminal words of any kind so that they rhymed, and then some one else filling up the blank lines, and making four lines of sensible poetry.[130] In fact, just the same amusements that are now compelled to be resorted to as pastimes in a village home. The better class had musical evenings, for chamber music was popular, but the spinets and harpsichords were of moderate compass, and very slight in sound. They danced country dances too, any quantity of them; and there was the curse of the age--cards--as a never-failing resource.
[Footnote 130: See Spectator, No. 60.]
The women did not walk much. Swift seems to think they did; but then a little walking went a long way with him. He quite boasts of his walk from and to Chelsea of a day, a good two-mile walk each way, as somewhat of a feat, and he repeatedly grumbles at Stella for not walking more--tells her to knock off her claret and buy a pair of good strong boots and use them.[131] 'When I pass the Mall in the evening it is prodigious to see the number of ladies walking there; and I always cry shame at the ladies of Ireland, who never walk at all, as if their legs were of no use, but to be laid aside.... I tell you what, if I was with you, when we went to Stoyte, at Donnybrook, we would only take a coach to the hither end of Stephen's Green, and from thence go every step on foot; yes, faith, every step.'
[Footnote 131: Journal to Stella, letter 23.]
The Mall was the fashionable lounge, or the Parade, where smoking was not allowed.[132] 'From thence we walk'd into the Parade, which my Friend told me us'd, in a Morning, to be cover'd with the Bones of Red Herrings, and smelt as strong about Breakfast Times as a Wet Salter's Shop at Midsummer. But now, says he, its perfum'd again with English Breath; and the scent of Oroonoko Tobacco no more offends the Nostrils of our squeamish Ladies.' And there were the ducks to feed on the canal. But the Mall was the place. Ward goes into ecstasies over it: never was there such a sight. 'From thence we went thro' the Pallace into the Park about the time when the Court Ladies raise their extended Limbs from their downy Couches, and Walk into the Mall to refresh their charming Bodies with the Cooling and Salubrious Breezes of the Gilded Evening. We could not possibly have chose a Luckier Minute to have seen the delightful Park in its greatest Glory and Perfection; for the brightest Stars of the Creation sure (that shine by no other Power than humane Excellence) were moving here with such awful State and Majesty that their Graceful Deportments bespoke 'em Goddesses,' etc.
[Footnote 132: The London Spy.]
Of course they paid visits--how could women live without a little gossip? The invaluable Misson takes a note of the practice. 'Persons of the first Quality visit one another in England as much as we do in France, generally about Evening; but the ordinary Sort of People have not that Custom. Among us all the little Shopkeepers, particularly the Women, go with their Gowns about their Heels to visit one another by Turns, either to crack and bounce to one another, or else to sit with their Arms a cross, and say nothing. What can be more tedious, impertinent, and ridiculous than such Visits? Here, Persons of that Condition go to see one another with their Work in their Hands and Chearfulness in their Countenance, without Rule or Constraint. Upon certain Occasions, as upon Mourning or Marriage, they pay one another Visits of Ceremony.' Brown gives a most amusing description[133] of 'the City Ladies Visiting Day, which is a familiar Assembly, or a general Council, of the fair and charming Sex, where all the important affairs of their Neighbours are largely discuss'd, but judg'd in an arbitrary manner, without hearing the Parties speak for themselves. Nothing comes amiss to these Tribunals; matters of high and no consequence, as Religion and Cuckoldom, Commodes and Sermons, Politicks and Gallantry, Receipts of Cookery and Scandal, Coquetry and Preserving, Jilting and Laundry; in short, every thing is subject to the Jurisdiction of this Court, and no Appeal lies from it. The Coach stops at the Goldsmith's or Mercer's Door, and off leaps Mr. Skip Kennel from behind it, and makes his Address to the Book Keeper or Prentice, and asks if his Lady (for that is always the name of the Mistress) receives any Visits that day or No; some stay must be made till the Woman above stairs sends down her Answer, and then the Pink of Courtesie is receiv'd at the top of the Stairs, like King James by the French King, and handed to her stool of discourse.... Thus they take a sip of Tea, then for a draught or two of Scandal to digest it, next let it be Ratafia, or any other Favourite Liquor, Scandal must be the after draught to make it sit easie on their Stomach, till the half hour's past, and they have disburthen'd themselves of their Secrets, and take Coach for some other place to collect new matter for Defamation.'
[Footnote 133: The Works of Thomas Brown, ed. 1708, vol. iii. p. 86.]
Tea was then in its infancy, but it was an extremely fashionable beverage, in spite of its expense, and the tea-table was the very centre of scandal and gossip.
How see we Scandal (for our sex too base), } Seat in dread Empire in the Female Race, } 'Mong Beaus and Women, Fans and Mechlin Lace, } Chief seat of Slander, Ever there we see Thick Scandal circulate with right Bohea. There, source of black'ning Falshood's Mint of Lies, } Each Dame th' Improvement of her Talent tries, } And at each Sip a Lady's Honour dies; } Truth rare as Silence, or a Negro Swan, Appears among those Daughters of the Fan.
Naturally, when out walking they did a little shopping, or what passed as such; for then, as now, many a fine lady would go into a shop and look at the goods simply to pass away the time, regardless of the loss and inconvenience to the shopkeeper. Steele notices this--indeed, what little social blot ever went undetected by the omniscient Spectator?--in the following amusing strain:[134] 'I am, dear Sir, one of the top China Women about Town; and though I say it, keep as good Things and receive as fine Company as any o' this End of the Town, let the other be who she will. In short I am in a fair Way to be easy, were it not for a Club of Female Rakes who, under pretence of taking their innocent rambles, forsooth, and diverting the Spleen, seldom fail to plague me twice or thrice a day to cheapen Tea, or buy a Skreen. What else should they mean? as they often repeat it. These Rakes are your idle Ladies of Fashion, who having nothing to do employ themselves in tumbling over my Ware. One of these No Customers (for, by the way, they seldom or never buy anything) calls for a set of Tea Dishes, another for a Bason, a third for my best Green Tea, and even to the Punch bowl; there's scarce a piece in my Shop but must be displaced, and the whole agreeable Architecture disordered, so that I can compare 'em to nothing but to the Night Goblins that take a Pleasure to overturn the Disposition of Plates and Dishes in the kitchens of your housewifely Maids. Well, after all this Racket and Clutter, this is too dear, that is their Aversion; another thing is Charming, but not wanted. The Ladies are cured of the Spleen, but I am not a Shilling the better for it.'
[Footnote 134: Spectator, No. 337.]
One famous place for shopping was the New Exchange, in the Strand, which must have been something like our arcades; and many are the allusions, in contemporary literature, to the dangerous allurements of the Exchange shop-girls. 'Did you buy anything? Some Bawbles. But my choice was so distracted among the Pretty Merchants and their Dealers, I knew not where to run first. One little lisping Rogue, Ribbandths, Gloveths, Tippeths. Sir, cries another, will you buy a fine Sword Knot; then a third, pretty voice and Curtsie, Does not your Lady want Hoods, Scarfs, fine green silk Stockings. I went by as if I had been in a Seraglio, a living Gallery of Beauties--staring from side to side, I bowing, they laughing; so made my escape.'[135]
[Footnote 135: The Lying Lover.]
This was the universal description of the New Exchange, and the character of their wares has been immortalised in a song by Ward:--
Fine Lace or Linnen, Sir, Good Gloves or Ribbons here; What is't you please to Buy, Sir? Pray what d'ye ask for this? Ten Shillings is the Price; It cost me, sir, no less, I Scorn to tell a Lye, Sir.
Madam, what is't you want, Rich Fans of India paint? Fine Hoods or Scarfs, my Lady? Silk Stockings will you buy, In Grain or other Dye? Pray, Madam, please your Eye; I've good as e'er was made ye.
My Lady, feel the Weight, They're Fine, and yet not Slight; I'd with my Mother trust 'em. For Goodness and for Wear, Madam, I Vow and Swear, I show'd you this same Pair In hopes to gain your Custom.
Pray tell me in a Word, At what you can afford, With Living Gain to sell 'em: The price is one Pound five, And as I hope to Live, I do my Profit give, Your Honour's very welcome.
Knives, Penknives, Combs or Scissors, Tooth Pickers, Sirs, or Tweesers; Or Walking Canes to Ease ye. Ladies, d'ye want fine Toys, For Misses or for Boys? Of all sorts I have Choice, And pretty things to please ye.
I want a little Babye, As pretty a one as may be, With Head dress made of Feather: And now I think again, I want a Toy from Spain, You know what 'tis I mean: Pray send 'em home together.
Another female practice, then, was to go to daily service at church especially--and St. Paul's, Covent Garden, was a very fashionable church at which to worship, or ogle the beaus.[136] 'This Market and that Church,' says my friend, 'hides more faults of kind Wives and Daughters among the Neighbouring Inhabitants than the pretended Visits either to my Cousin at t'other end of the Town, or some other distant Acquaintance; for if the Husband asks, Where have you been, Wife? or the Parent, Where have you been, Daughter? the Answer, if it be after Eleven in the forenoon, or between Three and Four in the Afternoon, is, At Prayers. But, if early in the Morning, then their excuse is, I took a walk to Covent Garden Market, not being very well, to refresh myself with the scent of the Herbs and Flowers; Bringing a Flower, or a Sprig of Sweet Bryar, home in her Hand, and it confirms the matter.'
[Footnote 136: The London Spy.]
When not walking, ladies used either a coach or a sedan chair, and but seldom rode on horseback; but, when they did so, they generally preferred the pillion to the side-saddle, as in the accompanying illustration, and held on by the belt either of her cavalier or groom.
In the country, horse exercise was much more in vogue, and Swift repeatedly alludes to, and reminds Stella of, her riding. When riding, ladies very frequently wore masks to protect the countenance from the rays of the sun.
Frequent allusions are made to a lady's pets, her lap-dog or her parrot; but very few people know the very wide range of choice she had in the selection of those pets. Needless to say there were monkeys, both Marmoset and other kinds; there were paroquets, paroquets of Guinea, cockatoos and macaws, scarlet nightingales from the West Indies, lorries or lurries, canaries, both ash and lemon colour, white and grey turtle doves from Barbary, white turtle doves, and the turtle doves from Moco, no bigger than a lark, spotted very fine. There were milk-white peacocks, white and pyed pheasants, bantams, and furbelow fowls from the East Indies, and top-knot hens from Hamburg. She would hardly want the 'Parcel of living Vipers, fresh taken, fat and good, are to be sold by the dozen,' nor would she care about the 'fine Tyger from the East Indies, who was brought over together with some fine geese from the same part of the world,' and some 'Amedawares.' In fact there were 'Jamrachs' then as now, and many of the bird shops were in St. Martin's Lane, near which locality they still abound. There is a curious advertisement in the Postman, January 12/15, 1706, which settles the date of bird-seed glasses. 'The so much approved and most convenient new fashion Crystal Bird Glasses, which effectually prevent the Littering of the Seeds into the Rooms.'
An innocent amusement, of which they were very fond, was dancing. And of dances there were a considerable quantity: country dances and jigs, of which there was an infinite variety, and minuets, rigadoons, and other more stately and stagey dances, as the 'Louvre and the French Brittagne.' These latter were elaborate, and absolutely inaugurated a fresh literature devoted to their cult. This seems to have been started by one Thoinet Arbeau, in a book published by him in 1588, and he may be called the originator of the ballet. Both Beauchamp and Feuillet wrote on this subject in French. Feuillet's book was translated and improved upon by Siris, in 1706. John Weaver wrote on this subject (in his 'Orchesography') about 1708, and John Essex (in the 'Treatise of Chorography') in 1710. The object was to teach the different steps and dances, by means of diagrams. Thus coupées, bourées, fleurets, bounds or tacs, contretemps, chasses, sissones, pirouettes, capers, entrechats, etc., all had their distinguishing marks.
The effect of learning by this method is whimsically given by Addison.[137] 'I was this morning awakened by a sudden shake of the house, and as soon as I had got a little out of my consternation I felt another, which was followed by two or three repetitions of the same convulsion. I got up as fast as possible, girt on my rapier, and snatched up my hat, when my landlady came up to me and told me "that the gentlewoman of the next house begged me to step thither, for that a lodger she had taken in was run mad, and she desired my advice," as indeed everybody in the whole lane does upon important occasions. I am not like some artists, saucy, because I can be beneficial, but went immediately. Our neighbour told us "she had the day before let her second floor to a very genteel youngish man, who told her he kept extraordinary good hours, and was generally home most part of the morning and evening at study; but that this morning he had for an hour together made this extravagant noise which we then heard." I went up stairs with my hand upon the hilt of my rapier, and approached this new lodger's door.
[Footnote 137: The Tatler, No. 88.]
'I looked in at the keyhole, and there I saw a well-made man look with great attention on a book, and on a sudden jump into the air so high, that his head almost touched the ceiling. He came down safe on his right foot, and again flew up, alighting on his left; then looked again at his book, and holding out his right leg, put it into such a quivering motion, that I thought he would have shaked it off. He then used the left after the same manner, when on a sudden, to my great surprise, he stooped himself incredibly low, and turned gently on his toes. After this circular motion, he continued bent in that humble posture for some time, looking on his book. After this, he recovered himself with a sudden spring, and flew round the room in all the violence and disorder imaginable, until he made a full pause for want of breath.
'In this interim, my women asked "what I thought." I whispered, "that I thought this learned person an enthusiast, who possibly had his first education in the Peripatetic way, which was a sect of Philosophers, who always studied when walking." But observing him much out of breath, I thought it the best time to master him if he were disordered, and knocked at his door. I was surprized to find him open it, and say with great civility and good mien, "that he hoped he had not disturbed us." I believed him in a lucid interval, and desired "he would please to let me see his book." He did so, smiling. I could not make anything of it, and therefore asked "in what language it was writ." He said, "it was one he studied with great application; that it was his profession to teach it, and he could not communicate his knowledge without a consideration." I answered "that I hoped he would hereafter keep his thoughts to himself, for his meditation this morning had cost me three coffee dishes and a clean pipe." He seemed concerned at that, and told me "he was a dancing master, and had been reading a dance or two before he went out, which had been written by one who had been taught at an Academy in France." He observed me at a stand, and went on to inform me, "that now Articulate MOTIONS as well as SOUNDS were expressed by Proper CHARACTERS, and that there is nothing so common as to communicate a Dance by a letter." I besought him hereafter to meditate in a ground room.'
The public dancers were utilised in rather a curious way, if we may credit Mrs. Centlivre--who certainly ought to know. She says, in 'Love at a Venture,' 'Sir Paul Cautious, Go to the Play House, and desire some of the Singers and Dancers to come hither,' and the servant, later on in the play, announces, 'The Singers and Dancers are come, Sir. (Here is songs and dances.)'
IX. GAMBLING AND SPECULATION
Games at cards -- Curious cards -- Price -- Tax on Cards -- Female passion for gambling -- The Groom Porter's -- Gaming houses -- Gamesters -- Noted gamesters -- Debts of honour -- Speculation -- Life insurances -- Marine and other insurances -- Shopkeepers' lotteries -- Government lotteries -- Prizes and winners.
But primest and chief delight of men and women in this age was CARDS. Never, perhaps, was such a card-playing time--certainly not in England. Ombre, which is so vividly described in the third canto of the 'Rape of the Lock' was a game which could be played by two, three, or five persons--generally by three; to each of whom nine cards were dealt. It takes its name from the Spanish, the person who undertook to stand the game making use of the words 'Yo soy l'hombre,' 'I am the man.' It was an improvement on Primero, which disappeared after its introduction. L'hombre is still played in Spain under the name of Tresillo, and in Spanish America it is called Rocambor. Piquet is now played. Basset was a very gambling game, closely resembling the modern Faro; Whisk or Whist, Brag, Lanterloo, or Lanctre loo, in which pam, or the knave of clubs, is the highest card:[138] 'Were she at her Parish Church, in the Height of her Devotion, should any Body in the Interim but stand at the Church Door and hold up the Knave of Clubs, she would take it to be a Challenge at Lanctre Loo; and starting from her prayers, would follow her beloved Pam, as a deluded Traveller does an Ignis Fatuus'; and One and Thirty, which does not seem a very extravagant game, judging by Swift's account of it.[139] 'Lord Treasurer has had an ugly fit of the rheumatism, but is now near quite well. I was playing at one and thirty with him and his family the other night. He gave us all twelvepence apiece to begin with.' These were some of the games[140] they delighted in; and the accompanying illustration very vividly brings before us a quiet and pleasant game at cards.
[Footnote 138: Ward's Adam and Eve stript of their Furbelows.]
[Footnote 139: Journal to Stella, letter 53.]
[Footnote 140: Other games were cribbage, all fours, ruff and honours, French ruff, five cards, costly colours, bon ace, putt, plain dealing, Queen Nazareen, pennech, post and pair, bankafalat, beast.]
The implements of gaming, the cards themselves, were much smaller and thinner than those we are accustomed to play with. They were not always confined to the prosaic display of the pips and Court cards, as ours are, but took a far more fanciful flight. 'Geographical, Geometrical, Astronomical and Carving Cards, each Pack price 1_s._' 'Orange Cards, Representing the late King James's Reign and Expedition of the Prince of Orange, Plots of the Papists, Bishops in the Tower and Trial, Consecrated mock Prince of Wales, Popish Midwife, Fight at Reading, Pope's Nuncio, Captain Tom, Essex's Murder, burning Mass Houses, Army going over to the Prince of Orange, etc.'; cards delineating the victories of Marlborough and other events in Anne's reign; Sacheverel cards; and anything for fashion--cards from Vigo--in 1702--after the great victory there; proverb cards; all kinds of cards. The ordinary playing cards were cheap enough in all conscience, 'the best Principal superfine Picket Cards at 2_s._ 6_d._ a Dozen; the best Principal superfine Ombro Cards at 2_s._ 9_d._ a Dozen; the best Principal superfine Basset Cards at 3_s._ 6_d._ a dozen' (packs understood). The price to retailers averaged 1-1/2_d._ per pack, and it is marvellous how they could, at that time, be made for the money.
By an Act of 10 Anne, c. 18, s. 176, etc., a duty of sixpence per pack for cards, and five shillings a pair for dice, was imposed; and all cards made and unsold before June 12, 1711, were to be brought in to be stamped, and pay a duty of one halfpenny per pack, and dice 6_d._ a pair.
The passion of women for gambling was a fruitful theme for satire in those days. 'She's a profuse Lady, tho' of a Miserly Temper, whose Covetous Disposition is the very Cause of her Extravagancy; for the Desire of Success wheedles her Ladyship to play, and the incident Charges and Disappointments that attend it, make her as expensive to her Husband, as his Coach and six Horses. When an unfortunate Night has happen'd to empty her Cabinet, she has many Shifts to replenish her Pockets. Her Jewels are carry'd privately into Lombard Street, and Fortune is to be tempted the next Night with another Sum, borrowed of my Lady's Goldsmith at the Extortion of a Pawnbroker; and if that fails, then she sells off her Wardrobe, to the great grief of her Maids; stretches her Credit amongst those she deals with, or makes her Waiting Woman dive into the Bottom of her Trunk, and lug out her green Net Purse full of old Jacobuses, in Hopes to recover her losses by a Turn of Fortune, that she may conceal her bad Luck from the Knowledge of her Husband.'[141]
[Footnote 141: 'The Gaming Lady, or Bad Luck to him that has her,' in Adam and Eve stript of their Furbelows.]
Nay, worse subterfuges than these are more than openly hinted at in divers authors. One or two examples will suffice.
This Itch for play has likewise fatal been, And more than Cupid draws the Ladies in, A Thousand Guineas for Basset prevails, A Bait when Cash runs low, that seldom fails; And when the Fair One can't the Debt defray In Sterling Coin, does Sterling Beauty pay.[142]
[Footnote 142: Epilogue to The Gamester, ed. 1705.]
No wonder that Steele bursts out,[143] 'Oh, the damned Vice! That Women can imagine all Household Care, regard to Posterity, and fear of Poverty, must be sacrificed to a game at Cards.
[Footnote 143: The Tender Husband.]
But we must not think that the fair ones monopolised the enjoyment of this passion--the sterner sex were equally culpable. Gaming houses were plentiful. The 'Groom Porter's' was still in full swing, vide this advertisement:[144] 'Whereas Her Majesty, by her Letters Patent to Thomas Archer Esq. constituting him Her Groom Porter, hath given full Power to him and such Deputies as he shall appoint, to supervise, regulate, and authorize (by and under the Rules, Conditions and Restrictions by the Law prescribed) all manner of Gaming within this Kingdom. And, whereas several of Her Majesty's Subjects, keeping Plays or Games in their Houses, have been lately abused, and had Moneys extorted from them by several ill disposed Persons, contrary to Law. These are therefore to give Notice, That no Person whatsoever, not producing his Authority from the said Groom Porter, under the Seal of his Office, hath any Power to act anything under the said Patent. And to the end that all such Persons offending as aforesaid may be proceeded against according to Law, it is hereby desired, that Notice be given of all such Abuses to the said Groom Porter, or his Deputies, at his Office at Mr. Stephenson's, a Scrivener's House, over against Old Man's Coffee House near Whitehall.'
[Footnote 144: The London Gazette, Dec. 6/10, 1705.]
The Groom Porter's own Gaming House must have been the scene of brawls.[145]
[Footnote 145: The Busy Body.]
Sir Geo. Airy. Oh, I honour Men of the Sword; and I presume this Gentleman is lately come from Spain or Portugal--by his Scars.
Marplot. No, really, Sir George, mine sprung from civil Fury: Happening last night into the Groom Porter's--I had a strong Inclination to go ten Guineas with a sort of a--sort of a--kind of a Milk Sop, as I thought; A Pox of the Dice, he flung out, and my Pockets being empty, as Charles knows they sometimes are, he prov'd a Surly North Briton, and broke my face for my Deficiency.
If scenes like this were enacted at the Groom Porter's, what must have taken place at the other gaming houses? Let two contemporary writers, whose language, though rough, is trustworthy, answer the question. 'Gaming is an Estate to which all the World has a Pretence, tho' few espouse it that are willing to keep either their Estates, or Reputations. I knew two Middlesex Sharpers not long ago, that inherited a West Country Gentleman's Estate, who I believe, wou'd have never made them his Heirs in his last Will and Testament.
'Lantrillou is a kind of Republick very ill ordered, where all the World are Hail Fellow well met; no distinction of Ranks, no Subordination observed. The greatest Scoundrel of the Town, with Money in his Pockets, shall take his Turn before the best Duke or Peer in the Land, if the Cards are on his side. From these Privileg'd Places not only all Respect and Inferiority is Banish'd; but every thing that looks like Good Manners, Compassion, or Humanity: Their Hearts are so Hard and Obdurate, that what occasions the Grief of one Man, gives Joy and Satisfaction to his next Neighbour....
'In some Places they call Gaming Houses Academies; but I know not why they should inherit that Honourable Name, since there's nothing to be learn'd there, unless it be Slight of Hand, which is sometimes at the Expence of all our Money, to get that of other Men's by Fraud and Cunning. The Persons that meet are generally Men of an Infamous Character, and are in various Shapes, Habits and Employments. Sometimes they are Squires of the Pad, and now and then borrow a little Money upon the King's High Way, to recruit their losses at the Gaming House, and when a Hue and Cry is out, to apprehend them, they are as safe in one of these Houses as a Priest at the Altar, and practise the old trade of Cross biting Cullies, assisting the Frail Square Dye with high and low Fullums, and other Napping Tricks, in comparison of whom the common Bulkers, and Pickpockets, are a very honest Society. How unaccountable is this way to Beggary, that when a Man has but a little Money, and knows not where in the World to compass any more, unless by hazarding his Neck for't, will try an Experiment to leave himself none at all: Or, he that has Money of his own, should play the Fool, and try whether it shall not be another Man's. Was ever any thing so Nonsensically Pleasant.
'One idle day I ventur'd into one of these Gaming Houses, where I found an Oglio of Rakes of several Humours, and Conditions met together. Some that had left them never a Penny to bless their Heads with. One that had play'd away even his Shirt and Cravat, and all his Clothes but his Breeches, stood shivering in a Corner of the Room, and another comforting him, and saying, Damme Jack, who ever thought to see thee in a State of Innocency: Cheer up, Nakedness is the best Receipt in the World against a Fever; and then fell a Ranting, as if Hell had broke loose that very Moment.... I told my friend, instead of Academies these places should be call'd Cheating Houses: Whereupon a Bully of the Blade came strutting up to my very Nose, in such a Fury, that I would willingly have given half the Teeth in my Head for a Composition, crying out, Split my Wind Pipe, Sir, you are a Fool, and don't understand Trap, the whole World's a Cheat.'[146]
[Footnote 146: The Works of Mr. Thomas Brown, ed. 1705.]
Ward,[147] also, writing of gaming, says: 'Pray, said I, what do you take those Knot of Gentlemen to be, who are so Merry with one another? They, reply'd my Friend, are Gamesters, waiting to pick up some young Bubble or other as he comes from his Chamber; they are Men whose Conditions are subject to more Revolutions than a Weather Cock, or the Uncertain Mind of a Fantastical Woman. They are seldom two Days in one and the same Stations, they are one day very richly drest, and perhaps out at Elbows the next; they have often a great deal of Money, and are as often without a Penny in their Pockets; they are as much Fortunes Bubbles, as young Gentlemen are theirs; for whatever benefits she bestows upon 'em with one Hand, she snatches away with t'other; their whole Lives are a Lottery, they read no books but Cards, and all their Mathematicks is to truly understand the Odds of a Bet; they very often fall out, but very seldom Fight, and the way to make 'em your Friends is to Quarrel with them.... They generally begin every Year with the same Riches; for the Issue of their Annual Labours is chiefly to inrich the Pawnbrokers. They are seldom in Debt, because no Body will Trust 'em; and they never care to Lend Money, because they Know not where to Borrow it. A Pair of False Dice, and a Pack of mark'd Cards sets 'em up; and an Hours Unfortunate Play commonly breaks 'em.'
[Footnote 147: The London Spy.]
These professional swindlers belonged to all classes of society, and some who died in this reign have left names behind them: St. Evremont, Beau Fielding, Macartney, who was Lord Mohun's second in his celebrated duel with the Duke of Hamilton, and the Marquis de Guiscard, who stabbed Harley, the Earl of Oxford. Their Lives, and many others, are given by Lucas,[148] from whom I shall only borrow one example, to show the equality that play made between the different social grades. Bourchier died in 1702, so that he just comes within this reign. 'Being at the Groom Porter's, he flung one Main with the Earl of Mulgrave for 500 Pounds, which he won; and his Honour looking wistly at him, quoth he, I believe I shou'd know you. Yes (reply'd the Winner) your Lordship must have some Knowledge of me, for my Name is Dick Bourchier, who was once your Footman. Whereupon his Lordship supposing he was not in a Capacity of paying 500 Pounds in case he had lost, cry'd out, A Bite, A Bite. But the Groom Porter assuring his Lordship that Mr. Bourchier was able to have paid 1,000 Pounds provided his Lordship had won such a Summ, he paid him what he plaid for, without any farther Scruple.'
[Footnote 148: Memoirs of the Lives, Intrigues, and Comical Adventures of the most famous Gamesters and Celebrated Sharpers in the Reigns of Charles 2, James 2, William 3, and Queen Anne, etc. By Theophilus Lucas. London, 1714.]
'Once Mr. Bourchier going over to Flanders, with a great Train of Servants, set off in such a fine Equipage, that they drew the Eyes of all upon them wherever they went, to admire the Splendor and Gaiety of their Master, whom they took for no less than a Nobleman of the first Rank. In this Pomp, making his Tour at K. William's Tent, he happen'd into Play with that great Monarch, and won of him above £2,500. The Duke of Bavaria being also there, he took up the cudgels, and losing £15,000 the Loss put him into a great Chafe, and doubting some foul Play was put upon him, because Luck went so much against him, quoth Mr. Bourchier: Sir, if you have any suspicion of the least Sinister Trick put upon your Highness, if you please I'll give you a Chance for all your Money at once, tossing up at Cross and Pile, and you shall have the Advantage too of throwing up the Guinea yourself. The Elector admir'd at his bold Challenge, which never the less accepting, he tost up for £15,000, and lost the Money upon Reputation, with which Bourchier was very well satisfied, as not doubting in the least; and so taking his leave of the King, and those Noblemen that were with him, he departed. Then the Elector of Bavaria enquiring of his Majesty, who that Person was, that could run the Hazard of playing for so much Money at a time, he told him it was a subject of his in England, that though he had no real Estate of his own, yet was he able to play with any Sovereign Prince in Germany. Shortly after Bourchier returning into England, he bought a most rich Coach and Curious Sett of Six Horses to it, which cost him above £3,000, for a present to the Elector of Bavaria, who had not as yet paid him any thing of the £30,000 which he had won of him. Notice hereof being sent to his Highness, the generous Action incited him to send over his Gentleman of Horse into England, to take care of this Present, which he receiv'd Kindly at Bourchier's Hands, to whom he return'd Bills of Exchange also, drawn upon several eminent Merchants in London, for paying what Money he had lost with him at Play.'
Bourchier became very rich, and purchased an estate near Pershore, in Worcestershire, where he was buried--although he died in London.
The lower classes followed the example of their social superiors, and gambled; but once only can I find such an instance of gaming fever as the following:[149] 'An Inditement is presented against a Person in Westminster, for playing away his Wife to another Man, which was done with her own consent.'
[Footnote 149: The English Post, October 12/14, 1702.]
Losses at cards, or debts of honour, as they were then and are now called, were supposed to be punctually paid. See 'The Gamester.'
Hector. Then, Sir, here is two Hundred Guineas lost to my Lord Love-game, upon Honour.
Sir Thos. Valere. That's another Debt I shall not pay.
Hector. How, not pay it, Sir. Why, Sir, among Gentlemen, that Debt is look'd upon the most just of any: you may Cheat Widows, Orphans, Tradesmen without a Blush; but a Debt of Honour, Sir, must be paid. I cou'd name you some Noblemen that pays no Body--yet a Debt of Honour, Sir, is as sure as their Ready Money.
Sir Thos. He that makes no Conscience of Wronging the Man whose Goods have been deliver'd for his use can have no pretence to Honour, whatever Title he may wear.
There was a speculating mania arising, which boded ill for the future. In this reign was born the 'South Sea Bubble,' which burst so disastrously in the next, and involved thousands in ruin. Perhaps the mildest form it took was in insurances. We have already glanced at the fire insurances in Queen Anne's time; they now began to think of life insurance, and the first advertisement on this subject that I have noticed is in 1709. 'The Office of Assurance of Money upon Lives is at the Rainbow Coffee House in Cornhill, where Men or Women may Subscribe on their own Lives for the benefit of their Children, or other Person's Lives for the benefit of themselves, and have them approv'd without their Knowledge, paying 10_s._ Entrance, and 10_s._ towards the first Claim for each Life, and shall have a Policy for £1,000 for each Life subscribed upon in the said Society. This Office may be proper for such Persons as have Annuities, Estates, or Places for Life; and for such Persons to make Assurance upon Lives where Debts are dubious if the Person die. This Office will assure Money much Cheaper per cent. than private Persons.' This looks very much as if it were the first life insurance company that was started, in lieu of private enterprise; and as this is the only company that is advertised in Queen Anne's reign, it was probably the sole forerunner of the numerous similar enterprises now in existence.
Hatton says, 'Offices that Insure Ships or their Cargo are many about the Royal Exchange, as Mr. Hall's, Mr. Bevis's, etc., who for a Premium paid down procure those that will subscribe Policies for Insuring Ships (with their Cargo) bound to or from any part of the World, the Premium being proportioned to the Distance, Danger of Seas, Enemies, etc. But in these Offices 'tis Customary upon paying the Money on a Loss to discount 16 per cent.'
A curious marine insurance was in existence early in 1711, of which the following is the advertisement; but it seems a sporting insurance, and only meant to cover the war risk. 'For the Encouragement of Navigation for Masters, Mates and other Seafaring Men that are Burnt, Sunk or Taken. That 4,000 Persons by paying 2_s._ 6_d._ for a Policy, and 5_s._ to the 1st Quarter, which will be paid 21 days after Midsummer for the Lady Day Quarter, to the Sufferer or Sufferers £1,000 in full, or in proportion to what is paid in, and continuing to pay 5_s._ every Quarter or 14 days after; likewise if 4,000 persons by paying 2_s._ 6_d._ for a Policy, and 2_s._ for the 1st if full, £400 or in proportion to be paid 21 days after Midsummer for this Lady Day Quarter, and likewise 4,000 by paying 2_s._ 6_d._ for Policies and 1_s._ per Quarter, the Sufferer or Sufferers to receive the benefit of £200 if full, or else in proportion, to be paid in 21 days after Midsummer; the Office was opened on Saturday last, the 27th past, by Hen Willson, Gent, in Jacob Street, Southwark. Note. When 1,000 Policies are taken out, Trustees will be Chosen and Land Security given. Any Person may Insure in all 3 Offices. Proposals at large may be had at the Office. Note, that £6 per cent. will be deducted out of the Money paid for the trouble and charges.'
There were besides--and they sprang up as if by magic--insurances for everything: for marriages, for births, for baptisms--rank swindles all. And lotteries! why, every thing, unsaleable otherwise, was tried to be got rid of by lottery. The papers teemed with advertisements. Take one newspaper haphazard; for example, the Tatler, Sept. 14/16, 1710: 'Mr. Stockton's Sale of Jewels, Plate, &c., will be drawn on Michaelmas Day.' 'The Lottery in Colson's Court is to be drawn the 21st Inst.' 'The Sale of Goods to be seen at Mrs. Butler's, &c., will certainly be drawn on Tuesday the 19th Inst.' 'Mrs. Povy's Sale of Goods is put off to Saturday 23rd Inst. 'Mrs. Symond's Sale of Goods will begin, &c., on Wednesday the 20th of this Instant.' 'Mrs. Guthridge's Sixpenny Sale of Goods, &c., continues to be drawn every Day.'
The financial atmosphere was getting unwholesome, Government had to step in, and an Act was passed which duly appeared in the London Gazette, June 28/July 1, 1712, which enacted 'That every Person who, after the 24 June 1712, shall erect, set up, or keep any Office or Place for making Insurance on Marriages, Births, Christnings, or Service, or any other Office or Place, under the Denomination of Sales of Gloves, of Fans, of Cards, of Numbers, of the Queen's Picture, for the improving of small sums of Mony,[150] or the like Offices or Places under pretence of improving small sums of Money, shall Forfeit for every such Offence the sum of 500_l._, to be recovered with full Costs of Suit, and to be divided as aforesaid.' This had the desired effect, and both in the British Mercury, June 27/30, 1712, and the Post Boy, Aug. 21/23, 1712, we hear of prosecutions of illicit lotteries--and they soon ceased.
[Footnote 150: Here is a sample of one of these traps to catch gulls: 'At Nixon's Coffee House, at Fetter Lane End in Fleet St, is open'd an Office call'd the Golden Office, where by putting in Monys, not exceeding 5 Guineas, may receive Cent per Cent in three Weeks time. Proposals may be had at the Place aforesaid.'--Postboy, April 26/29, 1712.]
Of course, morally speaking, the Government had no right to complain, for they had begun the system--by legalising a lottery for £1,500,000 in 1709--from which time until 1824 no year passed without Parliament sanctioning a Lottery Bill. It is not worth while going into the schemes of the various lotteries in Queen Anne's reign, but it may be interesting to note the constitution of the one which inaugurated an indefensible system of immoral finance, which lasted over a century. There were 150,000 tickets at £10 each, making £1,500,000, the principal of which was to be sunk, and 9 per cent. to be allowed on it for 32 years. Three thousand seven hundred and fifty tickets were prizes from £1000 to £5 per annum; the rest were blanks--a proportion of thirty-nine to one prize, but, as a consolation, each blank was entitled to fourteen shillings per annum during the thirty-two years.
People rushed after the tickets, and they were taken up at once. '21 Jan. 1710.--Yesterday books were opened at Mercer's Chappel for receiving subscriptions for the lottery, and, 'tis said, above a Million is already subscribed; so that, 'tis believed, 'twill be full by Monday 7 night.'[151]
[Footnote 151: Luttrell.]
And the same authority tells us[152] that 'Mr. Thomas Barnaby, who lately belonged to the 6 clerk's office, has got the £1000 per ann. ticket in the lottery.'
[Footnote 152: Ibid. August 15, 1710.]
Among the prize-holders of the next lottery (at least, so Swift writes Stella, Aug. 29, 1711) was a son of Lord Abercorn's. 'His second son has t'other day got a prize in the lottery of four Thousand pounds, beside two small ones of two hundred pounds each; nay, the family was so fortunate, that my lord bestowing one ticket, which is a hundred pounds, to one of his servants, who had been his page, the young fellow got a prize, which has made it another hundred.'
In some of the lotteries the prizes were very valuable, for we read in the Post Boy, Jan. 6/8, 1713, that 'Yesterday was drawn No. 22858, which entitles the Bearer to £36,000.'
The accompanying engraving shows us exactly how the lotteries were drawn; and, as it is taken from a book published in 1710, in all probability it is a correct representation of the famous first State lottery of 1709. Bluecoat boys, then, as in 1824, drew out the tickets.
As in all lotteries, superstition attaches a peculiar value to some number, or combination of numbers, in the ticket: so it was in Anne's time, and the Spectator (191) comments on an advertisement in the Post Boy of Sept. 27, 1711--'This is to give notice, That Ten Shillings over and above the Market Price will be given for the Ticket in the £1,500,000 Lottery No. 132, by Nath. Cliff, at the Bible and Three Crowns in Cheapside.'
X. SUPERSTITION
Astrologers -- Their advertisements -- Their tricks -- Witchcraft -- Cases of witchcraft.
It is not for us to decry the superstition of that age--we should look to ourselves in this matter. Perhaps they were more open in their expression of belief in the supernatural, and perhaps that belief was wider spread than at present. The seventh Spectator gives a very good account of the minor superstitions, but does not touch on the grosser ones, such as the consulting of astrologers, and the belief in witches. These two things still exist in England, though nothing like to the extent they did in the early part of the last century. In spite of Hudibras and Sidrophel, an astrologer was a very important entity. He published his almanacs--he drew horoscopes; and, as to witches, why, of course there were plenty of them. An old, ugly, soured, and malevolent woman earned a right to be considered such.
As for the astrologers, it is needless to say they were unscrupulous, needy sharpers, who lived 'in all the By-Allies in Moorfields, White Chappel, Salisbury Court, Water Lane, Fleet Street, and Westminster.' Their advertisements have come down to us, and a selection of two or three of them will furnish both amusement and information.
'In Cripplegate Parish, in Whitecross Street, almost at the farther End near Old Street (turning in by the sign of the Black Croe in Goat Alley, straight forward down three steps, at the sign of the Globe) liveth one of above Thirty Years Experience, and hath been Counsellor to Counsellors of several Kingdoms, who resolveth these Questions following--
'Life Happy or Unhappy? If Rich, by what means attain it. What manner of Person one shall Marry? If Marry the Party desired. What part of the City or Country is best to live in? A Ship at Sea, if safe or not. If a Woman be with Child, with Mail or Female, and whether Delivered by Night or by Day? Sickness, the Duration, and whether end in life or death? Suits at Law, who shall overcome, With all lawful Questions, that depend on that most Noble Art of CHRISTIAN ASTROLOGY.
'Likewise, he telleth the Meaning of all Magical Panticles, Sigils, Charms, and Lamens, and hath a Glass, and helpeth to further Marriages.
'He hath attained to the Signet Star of the Philosopher.
'He likewise hath attained to the Green, Golden, and Black Dragon, known to none but Magicians, and Hermetick Philosophers; and will prove he hath the true and perfect Seed and Blossom of the Female Fern, all for Physician's uses. And can tell concerning every serious Person, what their Business is on every Radical figure, before they speak one Word; secondly, What is past in most of their Life, What is present, and what is to come; where that they have Moles, what colour they are, and what is the meaning of them, &c.
'He hath a Secret in Art, far beyond the reach or Knowledge of common Pretenders.'[153]
[Footnote 153: Harl. MSS. 5931, 231.]
In this case we see the astrologer using the jargon of the alchemists, to enhance his value in the eyes of his dupes. It was still familiar to the ears of the people, and Jonson's 'Alchemist' was a popular play. The succeeding examples are more commonplace:--
'To be spoken with every day in the Week except Saturday at the Golden Ball (being the Third House on the Left Hand) in Gulstone Square, next Turning beyond Whitechappel Bars: And for the convenience of those who live in Westminster, Southwark, &c., He is to be spoken with every Saturday at the Golden Ball and 2 Green Posts, (There being a Hatch with Iron spikes at the door) near the Watch House in Lambeth Marsh.
'A Person who by his Travels in many Remote parts of the World, has obtained the Art of Presaging or Foretelling all Remarkable Things, that ever shall happen to Men or Women in the whole course of their Lives, to the great Admiration of all that ever came to him; and this he does by a Method never yet practised in England: He might give Multitudes of Examples, but will give but one of a Sort.
'A Young Woman, who had a Person pretended Love to her for many Years; I told her, she would find him False and Deceitful to her, and that he never design'd to Marry her, which was a great Trouble to her to hear, by reason she had plac'd her Affection on him, but she found it True, for shortly after he Marryed another: Soon after she had several Sweethearts at a Time, and came to me again for Advice; I told her, there was but one of those she could be happy with, and describ'd him to her; she took my Advice and Marryed him, and they prove a very Happy Couple.
'I have prevented the Ruin of Hundreds of Young Men and Women, by advising them to whom to dispose of themselves in Marriage.
'Another who had been many Years Plagued with a Bad Husband, I told her very few Months she'd Bury him and Marry again very happily, which she found True,' &c., &c.[154]
[Footnote 154: Harl. MSS. 5931, 233.]
The next is much shorter: 'Noble, or Ignoble, you may be foretold anything that may happen to your Elementary Life: as at what time you may expect prosperity: or, if in Adversity, the end thereof: Or when you may be so happy as to enjoy the Thing desired. Also young Men may foresee their fortunes, as in a Glass, and pretty Maids their Husbands, in this Noble, yea, Heavenly Art of ASTROLOGIE. At the Sign of the Parrot opposite to Ludgate Church within Black Fryars Gateway.'[155]
[Footnote 155: Ibid. 5931, 236.]
Ward,[156] with his keen observation, naturally attacked these gentry, lashed them unmercifully, and at great length. A short extract must suffice for our purpose, and will sufficiently show the estimation in which these astrologers were held by persons of common sense.
[Footnote 156: The London Spy.]
'No common Errours, Frauds, or Fallacies, in the World, have so far subdued the Weaker, and Consequently the Greater part of Mankind, as the Juggles and Deceits practicable in a parcel of pretending Astrologers; who undertake to resolve all manner of Lawful Questions, by Jumbling together those distant Bodies, in whose Nature or Influence they have just as much Knowledge, as a Country Ale Woman has of Witchcraft, or a German Juggler of Necromancy. In the first place, I have had an opportunity of examining several Nativities Calculated by those who have had the Reputation of being the best Artists of this Age; wherein I have observ'd Sickness, Length of Days, and all other Fortunate and Unfortunate Contingencies assign'd the Natives, have been as directly opposite to what has happen'd thro' the whole Course of their Lives, as if the Fumbling Star Groper had rather, thro' an Aversion to Truth, study'd the Rule of Contraries, that he might always be found in the Wrong on't.
'In the next place, their method in deceiving people who come to enquire after Stolen Goods, is such a bare fac'd ridiculous piece of Banter, that I wonder any Creature that bears Humane Shape, can be so stupidly Ignorant, as not to plainly discern the Impositions that are put upon them by their canting Albumazer; Who, in the first place, enquires about what time, and in what manner the things were lost; and what strangers they had in the House? From whence he reasonably infers, whether the Spoon, Cup, Tankard, or whatsoever it be, was taken away by the Common Thief, or stolen by a Servant, or Person that uses the House, or whether Conceal'd by the Master or Mistress on purpose to make the Servants more diligent. If his Conjecture be, that it was taken by a Common Thief, he describes a Swarthy Black Ill looking Fellow, with a down look, or the like; most wisely considering That such sort of Rogues are seldom without a Gallows in their Countenances: Telling withall, That the Goods are Pawn'd, and will scarcely be recoverable, without they take the Thief speedily, in order to effect which, he will give them his best Directions; which the credulous Ignoramus desires in Writing, for fear he should forget; which the Sower look'd Conjurer gives him accordingly, after the following manner:--Go a quarter of a Mile from your own Dwelling, and then turn Easterly, and walk forward till you come to the Sign of a large Four Footed Beast, and Search within three or four Doors of that Sign, and you will go near to take him, if you go soon enough, or hear of him, who is of a middle Stature and in poor Habit. Away goes the Fool, as well satisfied with the Note, as if he had the Rogue by the Elbow, and if by any Accident they do hear of the Thief, all is ascrib'd to the wonderful Cunning of their Wissard: But if on the contrary, he believes it to be taken by a Servant, or any Body that uses the House, he bids 'em, hab nab at a venture, Go home satisfied, for they shall certainly find the Spoon, &c. in three or four days' time, hid in a private Hole, in such a part of the Kitchen, or he'll make the Devil to do with those that have it; and force them to bring it in open shame and disgrace at Dinner time, and lay it down upon the Table in the Sight of the whole Family. Away goes the Person well satisfied with what their Ptolomist had told 'em: and declares to every one in the House how the Thief was Threaten'd, and after what manner the Spoon should be found within the time appointed, or else woe be to them that have it. This Frightful Story coming to the Ears of the Guilty, brings 'em under such dreadful Apprehensions of the Conjuror's Indignation, if they do not lay what they've taken within the time, according to the Direction; that the first opportunity they have, they will place it to the utmost exactness in whatever Hole or Corner he has appointed for the finding of it.'
The belief in witchcraft was still firmly rooted in the country in spite of the more enlightened feeling on the subject which prevailed in the metropolis. Addison[157] tells us of the Coverley Witch, Moll White, how he and Sir Roger went and visited her hovel, and found a broomstick behind the door, and the tabby cat, which had as evil a reputation as its mistress, and how 'In our return home, Sir Roger told me that Old Moll had been often brought before him for making Children spit Pins, and giving Maids the Night Mare; and that the Country People would be tossing her into a Pond and trying Experiments with her every Day, if it was not for him and his Chaplain.'
[Footnote 157: Spectator, No. 117.]
A little before this was written, two women had been executed at Northampton for witchcraft, and at that very time an old woman named Jane Wenham, living at a little village in Hertfordshire called Walkerne, was charged with, and next year tried for, witchcraft. She was condemned, reprieved, and pardoned. But in 1716 Mrs. Hicks and her daughter were executed at Huntingdon, and their crime was that of selling their souls to the devil, etc. Indeed, the capital sentence against witchcraft was only abolished by an Act 9 Geo. II. cap. 5.
There are two other published cases of witchcraft in Queen Anne's time. One[158] is the 'Full and True Account of the Apprehending and Taking of Mrs. Sarah Mordike, who is accused for a Witch. Being taken near Paul's Wharf on Thursday the 24th of this Instant, for having Bewitch'd one Richard Hetheway, near the Faulken Stairs in Southwark. With her Examination before the Right Worshipful Sir Thomas Lane, Sir Owen Buckingham, and Dr. Hambleton in Bow Lane.' It was an ordinary case: the bewitched person lost his appetite, voided pins, etc., and got better when he had scratched and brought blood from Moll Dyke, as she was familiarly called. The other, if at all credible, is a much worse case:[159] 'A Full and True Account of the Discovering, Apprehending and taking of a Notorious Witch, who was carried before Justice Bateman in Well Close, on Sunday July the 23. Together with her Examination and Commitment to Bridewel Clerkenwel.
[Footnote 158: British Museum, 515, l. 2./15.]
[Footnote 159: British Museum, 515, l. 2./199.]
'Sarah Griffith who Lived in a Garret in Rosemary lane was a long time suspected for a bad Woman, but nothing could be prov'd against her that the Law might take hold of her. Tho' some of the Neighbours' Children would be strangely effected with unknown Distempers, as Vomiting of Pins, their Bodies turn'd into strange Postures and such like, many were frighted with strange Apperitions of Cats, which of a sudden would vanish away, these and such like made those who lived in the Neighbourhood, both suspicious and fearful of her: Till at last the Devil (who always betrays those that deal with him) thus brought the Truth to Light. One Mr. John ---- at the Sugar loaf had a good jolly fellow for his Apprentice: This Old Jade came into his Shop to buy a quartern of Sope, the young fellow happened to Laugh, and the Scales not hanging right, cryed out he thought that they were be Witch'd; The Old Woman hearing him say so, fell into a great Passion, judging he said so to Ridicule her, ran out of the Shop and threatned Revenge. In the Night was heard a lumbring noise in the Shop, and the Man coming down to see, found a strange Confusion, every thing turn'd topsy turvy, all the goods out of order; but what was worse, the next day the poor fellow was troubled with a strange Disease, but (by) the good Prayers of some Neighbouring Divines the power of the Devil was restrain'd.
'Two or three days after it happened, that the Young Man with two or three more walking up to the New River Head, who should they see but Mother Griffith walking that way. They consulted together to try her, and one of them said let us toss her into the River, for I have heard that if she Swims 'tis a certain sign of a Witch; in short they put their design in Execution, for coming up to her, they tossed her in; but like a Bladder when forc'd under Water pops up again, so this Witch was no sooner in but Swam like a Corke; they kept her in some time, and at last let her come out again; she was no sooner out but she smote that Young Man on the Arm, and told him he should pay dear for what he had done. Immediately he found a strange pain on his Arm, and looking on it found the exact mark of her Hand and Fingers as black as a Cole; he went home where he lay much Lamented and wonderfully affrighted with the Old Woman coming to afflict him, and at last died with the pain, and (was) Buried in St. Pulchers Church Yard.
'Mr. John ---- fearing some further mischief, takes a Constable and goes to her Lodging, where he finds the Old Woman, and charges the Constable with her. She made many attempts to escape, but the Devil who owed her a shame had now left her, and she was apprehended. As she was conducted towards the Justices' House she tried to leap over the Wall, and had done it, had not the Constable knocked her down. In this manner she was carried before the Justice, there was Evidence that was with him in his Sickness could Witness that he had unaccountable Fits, Vomitted up Old Nails, Pins and such like, his body being turned into strange postures, and all the while nothing but crying out of Mother Griffith that she was come to torment him, his Arm rotted almost off, Gangreen'd, and Kill'd him. When she came before the Justice she pleaded innocence, but the Circumstances appeared so plainly that she was committed to Bridewel, where she now remains.
'Witness my Hand, 'July 24, 1704.'
'THOS. GREENWEL.
And Thoresby, in his semi-pious way, mentions (Feb. 18, 1712), 'With Mrs. Neville, Cousin Cookson, and others of the Grand Jury to see a reputed witch, who, though aged, could not repeat the Lord's Prayer; a fit instrument for Satan.'
XI. COSMETICS, ETC
Habit of snuff-taking -- Perfumes -- Charles Lillie -- List of scents -- Soaps -- Wash balls -- 'Complections' -- Tooth powder -- Hair dye -- Spectacles.
There was one social habit that the two sexes had in common, and that was in taking snuff: nay, it was more than hinted that some of the fair sex smoked--not nice little fairy 'Paquitas' or dainty little cigarettes, but nasty, heavy, clumsy clay pipes. The subject will be discussed in another part, but now we merely glance at the prevalence of the habit--not so much with the ladies, as it was later on in the century, but with the gentlemen; and the quantity taken, in the latter part of the reign, was excessive.
It is a marvel how the ladies at first allowed it, for it was the custom in society for a gentleman to kiss all the ladies in a room--a custom frequently mentioned in contemporary literature, and therefore only requiring one quotation[160] to illustrate it: 'The other Day entering a Room adorned with the Fair Sex, I offered, after the usual Manner, to each of them a Kiss; but one, more scornful than the rest, turned her Cheek. I did not think it proper to take any Notice of it till I had asked your Advice.'
[Footnote 160: Spectator, No. 272.]
Besides, the ladies were undoubtedly fond of sweet smells, perfumes, and scents; and one, in particular, seems to have possessed remarkable properties. 'The Princely Perfume. Being a most delightful Powder, which incomparably scents Handkerchiefs, Gloves, and all Sorts of Linnen, making them smell most deliciously oderiferous, fine and charming; it perfumes the Hands, the Hair of the Head, and Periwigs most delicately, also all Manner of Cloaths, Beds, Rooms, Scrutores, Presses, Drawers, Boxes, and all other Things, giving them a most admirable, pleasant and durable Scent, which is so curiously fragrant, so delectably sweet, reviving and enlivening, that no Perfume or Aromatick in the World, can possibly come near it; it never raises the vapours in Ladies, but, by its delicious Odour, Fragrancy and charming Perfume (which is really Superior to all other Scents upon Earth) it refreshes the Memory, cures the Head Ach, takes away Dulness and Melancholy, makes the Heart glad, and encreases all the Spirits, Natural, Vital, and Animal, to a Wonder.'[161] And there was a much bepuffed scent called the 'Royal Essence,' which, besides being a paragon of perfume, had the useful quality of curling the Periwig.
[Footnote 161: Daily Courant, Feb. 14, 1708.]
But the prince of perfumers and puffers was Charles Lillie, whose connection with the Tatler is so well known, and who was so belauded, that Addison, or Steele, in No. 96, had to issue a disclaimer. 'Whereas several have industriously spread abroad, that I am in partnership with CHARLES LILLIE the perfumer, at the corner of Beaufort Buildings; I must say with my friend PARTRIDGE, that they are Knaves who reported it. However, since the said CHARLES has promised that all his customers shall be mine, I must desire all mine to be his; and dare answer for him, that if you ask in my name for Snuff, Hungary or orange water, you shall have the best the town affords at the cheapest rate.'
When Lillie died, he left his MS. receipts behind him, made into a book, but it was never published till 1822; and he gives a long list of the scents in use.
Spirit of ambergris " " musk " " benjamin (benzoin) " " orange " " lemons and citrons " " bergamot " " lavender Red spirit of lavender Otto of roses and sandal citron Perfumed catchui Essence of jessamine " " orange flowers Lavender water Hungary water Aqua Mellis, or King's honey water Portugal and Angel water Oil of Rhodium " " roses " " lavender " " rosemary " " cloves " " cinnamon " " marjoram " " coriander Eau Sans Pareil Eau de Carm Jessamine water Bergamot water Orange flower water Myrtle water Rose water Cordova water
This reads like a very sufficient list of scents; that it was not greater was undoubtedly owing to the disturbed state of trade, and the absence of geographical discovery--which of late years has greatly increased the perfumer's répertoire.
There were soaps enough, in all conscience--Joppa, Smyrna, Jerusalem, Genoa, Venice, Castille, Marseilles, Alicant, French, Gallipoly, Curd, Irish, Bristol, Windsor, Black, and Liquid Soaps--and yet the ladies would use abominations called 'Wash balls.' These must have been a profitable manufacture, for the makers advertised freely in the papers. Let us look into a 'Composition for best Wash balls. Take forty pounds of rice in fine powder, twenty-eight pounds of fine flour, twenty-eight pounds of Starch powder, twelve pounds of white lead, and four pounds of Oris root in fine powder; but no whitening. Mix the whole well together, and pass it twice through a fine hair seive; then place it in a dry place, and keep it for use. Great care must be taken that the flour be not Musty, in which case the balls will in time crack, and fall to pieces. To this composition may be added Dutch pink, or brown fine damask powder, &c., according to the Colour required when the wash balls are quite dry.' These wash balls were in some variety--common, best camphor, ambergris, Bologna, marbled, figured, Greek, Marseilles, Venice, and chemical.
This making up of complexions was an art, and would not bear trifling with. 'Madam, who dress'd you? Here's this Tooth set in the wrong way, and your Face so besmear'd! What Complection do you use? This is worse than they daub Sign posts with; I never saw any thing so frightful.'[162] Naturally, with such an ingredient as white lead in their composition, these wash balls were injurious to the skin--vide a letter in Spectator, No. 41. 'Her skin is so tarnished with this Practice, that when she first wakes in a Morning, she scarce seems young enough to be the Mother of her whom I carried to bed the night before.' No wonder, for they used carmine, French red, Portuguese dishes, Spanish wool and papers, Chinese wool, and they had, also, pretty little lacquered boxes of paints for the toilette sent over from China. There was a wonderful 'bloom' advertised, 'The famous Bavarian Red Liquor, which gives such a blushing Colour to the Cheeks of those that are white or pale, that it is not to be distinguished from a natural fine Complection, nor perceived to be Artificial by the nearest Friend, is nothing of Paint, or in the least hurtful, but good in many Cases to be taken inwardly; it renders the Face delightfully handsome and beautiful, is not subject to be rub'd off like Paint, therefore cannot be discovered by any one.' There were also pearl and bismuth powders for the face.
[Footnote 162: The Gentleman Cully, ed. 1702.]
Rose and white lip salves were used as now, but their dentifrices were peculiar, to say the least, if this is a fair sample: 'Take four ounces of Coral, reduced to an unpalpable powder, eight ounces of very light Armenian bole, one ounce of Portugal Snuff, one ounce of Havanah Snuff, one ounce of the ashes of good tobacco, which has been burnt, and one ounce of gum myrrh, which has been well pulverised. Mix all these well together, and sift them twice.' An inferior tooth powder was made by leaving out the coral and substituting old broken pans (brown stone ware) reduced to a very fine powder. These mixtures were either rubbed on the teeth with the finger, or else used with a vegetable tooth brush or 'Dentissick Root,' which seems to have been made out of the roots of the marsh mallow, partially dried, and then fried in a mixture of rectified spirits, dragon's blood, and conserve of roses, until they were hard; when one end was bruised with a hammer, in order to open the fibres and form a rudimentary brush. There were dentists, both male and female, and they seem to have been so far successful that some of them guarantee their patients being able to eat with the false teeth after they were fixed. 'So firm and exact as to be eat on, and not to be discover'd by any Person from Natural Ones.'
The usual way of darkening the hair was by the mechanical means of a leaden comb.[163] 'Jenny Trapes! What that Carrot pated Jade that Lodges at the Corner of White Horse Alley!--The Same indeed, only She has black'd her Hair with a Leaden Comb.' But there were also 'Hair Restorers' in those days, as we find by an advertisement, that 'All Persons who, for themselves or Friend, having red or grey Hairs, and would have them dy'd, or turn'd black or dark brown, will find entire Satisfaction, as a great many have already, by the use of a Clear Water,' etc.
[Footnote 163: Tunbridge Walks, ed. 1703.]
Should the sight fail, it could be aided by spectacles, as now--but they were awsome things--with heavy horn, tortoiseshell, or silver rims, and were certainly no adjuncts to personal appearance. They varied in price from 4_d._ to 25_s._ per pair.
XII. TRADE, ETC
The penny post -- Dockwra's vindication of himself -- Abolition of penny post -- Post days and rates -- Halfpenny post -- Method of doing business -- The Exchange -- Description of frequenters -- Bankers -- Curious advertisement of Sir Richard Hoare's.
Among the social institutions then in existence, was the penny post, which cannot be better, or more tersely, described than in Misson's own words: 'Every two Hours you may write[164] to any Part of the City or Suburbs, he that receives it pays a Penny, and you give nothing when you put it into the Post; but when you write into the Country, both he that writes and he that receives pay each a Penny. It costs no more for any Bundle weighing but a Pound, than for a small Letter, provided the Bundle is not worth more than ten Shillings. You may safely send Money, or any other thing of Value, by this Conveyance, if you do but take care to give the Office an Account of it. It was one Mr. William Dockwra that set up this New Post, about the beginning of the Reign of King Charles 2, and at first enjoy'd the Profits himself; but the Duke of York, who had then the Revenue of the General Post, commenc'd a Suit against him, and united the Penny Post to the other.'
[Footnote 164: Besides the six great offices for taking in letters, there were 600 smaller ones in different parts of London, for the convenience of correspondents.]
Misson makes a slight error here. The penny post was started in 1683 by Rob. Murray, an upholsterer, but next year, several charges being brought against him, he was removed, and the concern was handed over to Dockwra, who was dispossessed as above, by an action in which he was cast both in damages and costs; but, about a year after, he was appointed Controller of the District Post. He was allowed a pension in the time of William and Mary (variously stated of from £200 to £500 a year), but he only enjoyed it four years, when he was discharged on account of some charges of malversation, etc., which were brought against him.
In January 1703, when Dockwra tried for the Chamberlainship of the City of London--which candidature, however, he soon abandoned--he found it necessary to issue disclaimers, and tell his version of the history of the penny post.[165]
[Footnote 165: Daily Courant, January 11, 1703.]
'Whereas a malicious false Report has been industriously spread, that one Robert Murray was the first Inventor of the Penny Post, and that he has been in Articles with me William Dockwra, and wrong'd and hardly used; the World is desired to take notice, That as to the first Pretence, it is utterly false, for Dr. Chamberlen, one Henry Neville, Payne, and others pretended themselves the first Inventors; And after I had actually set up the Office, one Mr. Foxley came and shew'd me a Scheme of his concerning a Penny Post, which he had offer'd to Sir John Bennet, Post Master General, eight Years before I ever Knew Murray, but that was rejected as impracticable, as indeed were all the rest of their Notions; nor was it by any of them, or any other Person whatsoever, put into any Method to make it practicable, till at my sole Charge and Hazard I begun it in the Year 1680.
'As to the Articles, they were sacredly Kept on my part, but never perform'd by Murray, to my great Loss and Damage, as by the very Articles themselves will evidently appear; and I am ready at any time to demonstrate, it is so far from having One Shilling due to him, or using him any way hardly, That on the Contrary, in Compassion to his distressed Condition, I have often bayl'd him to keep him out of Prison, and redeem'd him from thence, lent him several Sums of Money, which he never took care to pay again; and to this day I have Notes and Bonds to Produce, that he owes me more than One hundred and Fifty Pounds: So that these most unjust and ungrateful Allegations in Murray, are at this time reviv'd to be made use of, as malicious Reflections to lessen my Service to this City, and to stain my Reputation and Integrity thereby, to hinder my Fellow Citizens Kindness upon the Election for Chamberlain, which I hope will make no Impression, since I do affirm myself to be the first that ever put the Penny Post into Practice at a vast Expence and great Loss to me and my Family.
'WILLIAM DOCKWRA.'
And in the next day's Courant he was obliged to defend himself from other allegations.
'Whereas some Malicious Persons, designing to lessen me in the good Opinion of my Fellow Citizens, have spread a False and Scandalous Report, that I, William Dockwra, was remov'd from being Comptroller of the Penny Post, because of Injuries done to the Subject; and that I sunk the Revenue at least one fourth part to the Crown. I do hereby declare, That on the Contrary, I rectified many Abuses in the Management of that Office, and never wrong'd either Crown or Subject of the Value of a Shilling: And I do positively affirm, That I prov'd undeniably before the Post Master General by the Accounts then made up, that I advanced that small Revenue above Four Hundred Pounds: Yet neither my Right to the whole (being the only Person that ever brought the Penny Post to Perfection) nor the faithful Discharge of my Trust while Comptroller thereof, were sufficient to protect me against those Artifices too often made use of to remove useful and honest Men from publick Imployment: Nor have I receiv'd any of the Pension formerly granted me these two Years and half past. So that I hope the Impartial World will consider the great Loss I and my Family have sustain'd, by being depriv'd of the Penny Post, whilst the Publick daily reaps the Benefit and Advantage thereof and will do so to Posterity.
'WILLIAM DOCKWRA.'
In 1711 an Act was passed abolishing the penny post, and on June 23 of that year a proclamation was issued putting it in force. A notice had previously appeared in the London Gazette of June 12/14, assimilating all rates to those of the General Post, although for 'the Accommodation of the Inhabitants of such Places, their Letters will be convey'd with the same Regularity and Dispatch as formerly, being first Tax'd with the Rates, and Stamp'd with the Mark of the General Post Office, and that all Parcels will likewise be Tax'd at the Rate of One Shilling per Ounce as the said Act directs.'
In 1709 the Foreign and Inland Post Letter days were:--
'MONDAY. To Spain, Italy, Germany, Flanders, Denmark, Sweedland, Downs and Kent.
'TUESDAY. Germany, Holland, Sweedland, Denmark, North Britain, Ireland and Wales.
'WEDNESDAY. Kent and the Downs.
'THURSDAY. Spain, Italy, and all parts of North Britain and England.
'FRIDAY. Italy, Germany, Flanders, Kent, Holland, Sweedland, Denmark and Downs.
'SATURDAY. All parts of Wales, North Britain, England and Ireland.
'Letters return from all parts of England and North Britain, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays; from Wales, Mondays and Fridays, from Kent and the Downs every day; but from beyond Sea uncertain.
'The Carriage is 2_d._ a Sheet 80 Miles, double 4_d._ and 8_d._ an Ounce for more than Letters. All Letters more than 80 Miles is 3_d._ Single and 6_d._ Double Pacquet 12_d._ an Ounce. A Letter to Dublin 6_d._ Single, Double 1/ and 1/6 an Ounce.'
Foreign postage was not so very dear. In 1705, for instance, a letter of a single sheet could be carried to the West Indies for 1_s._/3_d._ and 2 sheets for 2/6; whilst from thence to England it was respectively 1/6 and 3/, or by weight 6/ per oz.
In 1708 Mr. Povey established a foot post--carrying letters, in the London district only, for one halfpenny. How long he kept it up does not seem clear; the Post Office authorities stopped him; but there is an advertisement referring to it in the Daily Courant of July 4, 1710: 'Whereas a Person in some Distress sent a letter by the Halfpenny Carriage on Monday night last,' etc., and this clearly shows it was in existence at that date.
The Gazette Nov. 29/Dec. 1, 1709, has the following Advertisement: 'Whereas Charles Povey and divers Traders and Shop Keepers in and about the Cities of London and Westminster, Borough of Southwark and Parts adjacent, and several Persons ringing Bells about the Streets of the said Cities and Borough, have set up, imploy'd, and for sometime continued a Foot Post for Collecting and Delivering Letters within the said Cities and Borough, and Parts adjoining, for Hire under the Name of the Halfpenny Carriage. Contrary to the Known Laws of this Kingdom, and to the great Prejudice of her Majesty's Revenues arising by Posts; her Majesty's Postmaster General has therefore directed Informations in her Majesty's Court of Exchequer, to be exhibited against the said Charles Povey, and several Shop Keepers and Ringers of Bells, for Recovery against every of them of £100 for such setting up, and for every week's continuance thereof; and also £5 for every Offence in Collecting and Delivering of Letters for Hire as aforesaid, contrary to the Statute for erecting and establishing a Post Office.'
These additions to the rate of postage, of course, induced people to look after franks--the granting of which, however, had not assumed anything like the proportions it did later on.
But there was not the hurrying and driving in business then as now. Men lived over their shops or counting houses, and, being easily accessible, did their work in a deliberate, leisurely manner, and began their business very early in the day. For instance, when Sir William Withers, Lord Mayor in 1707, was putting up for a seat in Parliament, he adduced, as showing he would have time for his parliamentary duties, that 'There is not above one Cause in a Day throughout the whole Year, to be Heard after Ten a Clock in the Morning.'[166] 'Change was earlier than now; 'Crowds of People gather at the Change by One, disperse by Three.'[167] It is thus humorously described:[168] 'The Exchange is the Land's Epitome, or you might call it the little Isle of Great Britain did the Waters encompass it. It is more, 'tis the whole World's Map which you may here discern in its perfectest Motion, justling and turning. 'Tis a vast heap of Stones, and the confusion of Languages makes it resemble Babel. The Noise in it is like that of Bees; a strange Humming or Buzzing, of walking tongues and feet; it is a kind of a still Roaring, or loud Whisper. It is the great Exchange of all Discourses, and no Business whatsoever but is here on Foot. All things are sold here, and Honesty by Inch of Candle; but woe be to the Purchaser, for it will never thrive with him.'
[Footnote 166: Daily Courant, October 30, 1707.]
[Footnote 167: A Comical View of London and Westminster, ed. 1705, p. 100.]
[Footnote 168: Hickelty Pickelty.]
In the centre of the Exchange was a statue of Charles II., and here the stock jobbers hovered about--when they were not at Robin's or Jonathan's in Exchange Alley; and all about, each under his own nationality, stood the trim Italian, the Hollanders and Germans, with their slovenly mien, and uncouth, unkempt beards and moustachios. The Dons, in flat crowned hats and short cloaks, took snuff prodigiously, and smelt terribly of garlic; there were the lively Gauls, animated and chattering, 'ready to wound every Pillar with their Canes, as they pass'd by, either in Ters, Cart, or Saccoon.' Jews of course, amber necklace sellers from the Baltic in fur caps and long gowns, a sprinkling of seedy military men, and the merchants. These were the constituent parts of 'Change in those days, and it must have been a sight worth seeing. Round about were shops as now, where the spruce young Cits ogled the pretty glove sellers, or bought a Steinkirk, or a sword knot. Contemporary accounts of these fair damsels are not very good, but it was rather a libellous or scurrilous age as regards women, and they might not be true, or at all events be taken with much salt.
Ward[169] gives an amusing account of the exterior. 'The Pillars at the Entrance of the Front Porticum were adorn'd with sundry Memorandums of old Age and Infirmity, under which stood here and there a Jack in a Box, like a Parson in a Pulpit, selling Cures for your Corns, Glass Eyes for the Blind, Ivory Teeth for Broken Mouths, and Spectacles for the weak sighted; the Passage to the Gate being lin'd with Hawkers, Gardeners, Mandrake Sellers, and Porters; after we had Crowded a little way amongst the Miscellaneous Multitude, we came to a Pippin Monger's Stall, surmounted with a Chymist's Shop; where Drops, Elixirs, Cordials, and Balsams had justly the Pre-eminence of Apples, Chesnuts, Pears, and Oranges,' etc., showing a view of the motley group of costermongers without. The pillars of the Exchange were hung round with advertisements, as indeed they were until very recently.
[Footnote 169: London Spy.]
Some well-known names of bankers were then in existence--Child's, Hoare's, Stone's, and Martin's. In Harl. MSS. 5996, 153 is a somewhat curious advertisement of Sir Richard Hoare's. 'WHEREAS there hath been several false and Malicious Reports industriously spread abroad reflecting on Sir Richard Hoare, Goldsmith, for occasioning and promoting a Run for Money on the Bank of England; and in particular, several of the Directors of the said Bank reporting, That the said Sir Richard sent to the Bank for Ten of their Notes of £10 each, with a design to send several Persons with the said Notes to receive the Money thereon, so as to effect his ill Designs, and to bring a Disreputation on the Bank, and occasion a Disturbance in the City of London:
'This is to satisfie all Persons, That the Right Honourable the Lord Ashburnham, Father of the Honourable Major Ashburnham, Major of the First Troop of Her Majesty's Life Guards, who was ordered to march for Scotland, sending to the said Sir Richard Hoare for a large Quantity of Gold, and for Ten Bank Notes of £10 each, for the said Major to take with him to bear his Expenses. The Gold was sent to his Lordship accordingly, and Sir Richard's Servant went to the Bank for ten Notes of £10 each, which the Cashier of the Bank refus'd to give: But if Sir Richard had intended to promote a Run for Mony on the Bank, he could have done it in a more effectual manner, having by him, all the time that the great demand for Mony was on the Bank, several Thousand Pounds in Notes payable by the Bank; and also there was brought to Sir Richard by several Gentlemen, in the time of the Run on the Bank, Notes payable by the said Bank, amounting to a great many Thousands of Pounds, which he was desir'd to take and receive the Mony presently from the Bank, which he refus'd to do until the great Demand on the Bank for Money was over.
'N.B. That the Reports against Sir Richard have been more Malicious than herein is mention'd, which he forbears to insert for brevity's sake.'
Ward, for some reason, disliked bankers: 'What methods do they take now to improve their Cash? The chief advantage they now make is by supplying the Necessities of straiten'd Merchants and great Dealers, to pay (for) the Goods imported, rather than they should fall under the Discredit as well as Disadvantage of being run into the King's Ware House, or by assisting of 'em in the purchase of great Bargains, or the like; for which they make 'em pay such unreasonable extortion, that they devour more of the Merchants Profit than Snails, Worms or Magpies, do of the Farmers Crop, or the Gardiner's Industry.' If this was all the fault he could find, their iniquities were not very glaring.
XIII. MEN'S DRESS
A beau -- An inventory of him -- Hats -- Wigs: their price: varieties -- Hair powder -- Robbery of wigs -- Natural hair -- Neck cloths -- Shirts -- Open waistcoats -- Colonel Edgworth -- Coats -- Cheap clothiers -- Stockings -- Boots and shoes -- Shoeblacks and blacking -- Handkerchiefs -- Muffs -- Swords -- Walking sticks -- Watches -- Over coats -- Night caps -- Night gowns.
We have seen the birth, marriage, and funeral of these good people, and have noted some of their social habits. Next is, how did they dress? Far plainer than in Charles the Second's time, rather richer than under solemn and austere Dutch William, yet not nearly as finely as during the Georgian era. That, of course, is speaking of ordinary mortals--neither the titled ones of the land, who showed their rank by their dress, nor the beaus, who formed no inconsiderable portion of metropolitan life, and at whom were levelled stinging little shafts of satire from all sides, mostly good-humoured. The macaroni, the dandy, the buck, the blood, the swell--all are fine, but the beau of Anne's time was superfine, and modelled on the messieurs of the time of Louis XIV. He cannot be dismissed in a few words, for he was an institution of the time. There were travelled fops, and they were hated--there were those of home manufacture, and they were laughed at. Misson notes that 'A Beau is so much the more remarkable in England, because generally speaking, the English Men dress in a plain uniform manner,' and he describes them as 'Creatures compounded of a Perriwig and a Coat laden with Powder as white as a Miller's, a Face besmear'd with Snuff, and a few affected airs; they are exactly like Molière's Marquesses, and want nothing but that Title, which they would infallibly assume in any other Country but England.' Cibber[170] describes him as one 'that's just come to a small Estate, and a great Perriwig--he that Sings himself among the Women--He won't speak to a Gentleman when a Lord's in Company. You always see him with a Cane dangling at his Button, his Breast open, no Gloves, one Eye tuck'd under his Hat, and a Toothpick.' Verily, there is little new under the sun, and we, in these our latter days, have been familiar with the Toothpick.
[Footnote 170: The Careless Husband, 2nd ed., 1705.]
Ward naturally loves him--impales him on his entomological pin--and enjoys his wriggles. He puts him under his microscope and minutely observes him, and then gives us the benefit of his description: 'A Beau is a Narcissus that is fallen in Love with himself and his own Shadow. Within Doors he is a great Friend to a great Glass, before which he admires the Works of his Taylor more than the whole Creation. His Body's but a Poor Stuffing of a Rich Case, like Bran to a Lady's Pincushion; that when the outside is stript off, there remains nothing that's Valuable. His Head is a Fool's Egg, which lies hid in a Nest of Hair; His Brains are the Yolk which Conceit has Addled. He's a strolling Assistant to Drapers and Taylors, showing every other Day a New Pattern, and a New Fashion. He's a Walking Argument against Immortality; For no Man by his Actions, or his Talk can find he has more Soul than a Goose. He's a very Troublesome Guest in a Tavern; and must have good Wine chang'd three or four Times till they bring him the worst in the Cellar, before he'll like it. His Conversation is as intolerable as a young Councel's in Term Time. Talking as much of his Mistresses, as the other does of his Motions; and will have the most Words, tho' all he says is nothing. He's a Bubble to all he deals with, even to his Periwig Maker; and hates the sordid Rascal that won't Flatter him. He scorns to condescend so low, as to speak of any Person beneath the dignity of a Noble man; the Duke of such a Place, and my Lord such one, are his common Cronies, from whom he knows all the Secrets of the Court, but dares not impart 'em to his best Friends, because the Duke enjoyn'd him to Secrecie. He is always furnish'd with new Jests from the last New Play, which he most commonly spoiles with repeating. His Watch he compares with every Sun Dial, Swears it corrects the Sun; and plucks it out so frequently in Company, that his Fingers go oftener in a Day to his Fob, than they do to his Mouth, spending more time every Week in showing the Rarity of the Work, than the Man did in making on't; being as forward to tell the Price without desiring, as he is to tell you the Hour without asking; he is a constant Visitor of a Coffee house, where he Cons over the News Papers with much indifference; Reading only for Fashion's sake and not for Information. He's commonly of a small standing at one of the Universities, tho' all he has learnt there, is to Know how many Taverns there are in the Town, and what Vintner has the handsom'st Wife.... He's a Coward amongst Brave men, and a Brave fellow among Cowards; a Fool amongst Wise men, and a Wit in Fool's company.'
Pretty hard hitting; but it is borne out on all hands. Try another description:[171] 'His first Care is his Dress, the next his Body; and in the uniting these Two lies his Soul and Faculties. His business is in the Side Box, the Stage, and the Drawing Room; his Discourse consists of Dress, Equipage, and the Ladies, and his extream Politeness in writing Billet deux; which he never fails to shew in all Companies. The nice Management of his Italian Snuff box, and the affected Screw of his Body, makes up a great Part of his Conversation, and the Pains he takes to recommend himself, wou'd set Heraclitus a Laughing. He's perpetually Laughing to shew his white Teeth, and is never serious but with his Taylor. His whole Design is bent upon a Fortune, which if he gets, the Coach and Equipage is still supported; if not his fine Cloaths and he prove stale together, and he is commonly buried ere he dies in a Gaol, or the Country, two places equally disagreeable to a Man of his Complexion.'
[Footnote 171: Hickelty Pickelty.]
And, not to be wearisome, we will conclude with John Hughes' 'Inventory of a Beau':[172] "A very rich tweezer case, containing twelve instruments for the use of each hour in the day.
[Footnote 172: Tatler, No. 113.]
'Four pounds of scented snuff, with three gilt snuff boxes; one of them with an invisible hinge, and a looking glass in the lid.
'Two more of ivory, with the portraitures on their lids of two ladies of the town; the originals to be seen every night in the side boxes of the play house.
'A sword with a steel diamond hilt, never drawn but once at May fair.
'Six clean packs of cards, a quart of orange flower water, a pair of French scissors, a toothpick case, and an eye brow brush.
'A large glass case, containing the linen and cloaths of the deceased; among which are two embroidered suits, a pocket perspective, a dozen pairs of red heeled shoes, three pairs of red silk stockings, and an amber headed cane.
'The strong box of the deceased, wherein were found five billet doux, a Bath shilling, a crooked sixpence, a silk garter, a lock of hair, and three broken fans.
'A press for books; containing on the upper shelf Three bottles of diet drink--Two boxes of pills.
'On the second shelf are several miscellaneous works; as Lampoons, Plays, Taylor's Bills, And an Almanack for the year 1700.
'On the third shelf, a bundle of letters unopened, indorsed, in the hand of the deceased "Letters from the old Gentleman," Lessons for the flute, Toland's "Christianity not mysterious," and a paper filled with patterns of several fashionable stuffs.
'On the lower shelf, one shoe, a pair of snuffers, a French Grammar, a mourning hatband; and half a bottle of usquebaugh.
'There will be added to these goods, to make a complete auction, a collection of gold snuffboxes and clouded canes, which are to continue in fashion for three months after the sale.'
In a description of men's dress, we will begin at his hat, and descend gradually to his boots. The hats were rather low crowned, made of felt, with very broad flapping brims--which were looped up, or cocked--very much at the fancy of the wearer--and the absence of this cocking denoted a sloven. 'Take out your Snuff Box, Cock, and look smart, hah!'[173] says Clodio to his bookworm brother Carlos; and their numerous shapes are alluded to by Budgell,[174] 'I observed afterwards, that the Variety of Cocks into which he moulded his Hat, had not a little contributed to his Impositions upon me.'
[Footnote 173: Love Makes a Man, C. Cibber, ed. 1701.]
[Footnote 174: Spectator, 319.]
They were universally of black hue; at least I have never met with mention of any other colour, except in sport: 'I shall very speedily appear at White's in a Cherry coloured Hat. I took this Hint from the Ladies Hoods, which I look upon as the boldest Stroke that Sex has struck for these three hundred Years last past.'[175] They had a gold or silver lace hat band, but ordinary people seldom had their hats edged. A hatband was considered de rigueur for servants, and Swift's man, Peter, even bought a silver one for himself, rather than be without one. Feathers were only worn by military men. 'The Person wearing the Feather, though our Friend took him for an Officer in the Guards, has proved to be an arrant Linnen Draper,'[176] i.e. only in the train bands.
[Footnote 175: Ibid.]
[Footnote 176: Ibid.]
But it was in the periwig, the Falbala, or Furbelow, the dress wig of the age, that all care was centred, and in which all the art of dress culminated. Originally invented by a French courtier to conceal a deformity in the shoulders, either of the Dauphin, or the Duke of Burgundy, its use spread all over Europe; but, perhaps, the fashion never was so preposterous at any time, as it was in Anne's reign, if we except the wonderful wig of the spendthrift Sir Edward Hungerford (whose bust used to be in a niche in Hungerford Market) in the middle of the previous century, who is said to have given five hundred guineas for a wig! They were made from women's hair--or, at least, were so presumably. Of this we have many examples; take one: 'A noisie Temple Beaux with a Peruke of his Sister's Hair ill made';[177]
[Footnote 177: The Roving Husband Reclaim'd, ed. 1706.]
They made our Sparks cut off their Nat'ral Hair, A d--d long W----'s Hair Periwig to wear.[178]
[Footnote 178: The Baboon à la Mode, A Satyr against the French.]
Women's hair was a valuable commodity, judging by the following: 'An Oxfordshire Lass was lately courted by a young man of that County, who was not willing to marry her unless her friends could advance £50 for her portion; which they being incapable of doing, the lass came to this City to try her fortune, when she met with a good Chapman in the Strand, who made a purchase of her Hair (which was delicately long and light), and gave her sixty pounds for it, being 20 ounces at £3 an ounce; with which money she joyfully returned into the Country and bought her a husband.'[179] Indeed, it was an article of general purchase and sale: 'We came up to the corner of a narrow Lane, where Money for old Books was writ upon some part or other of every Shop, as surely as Money for Live Hair, upon a Barber's Window.'[180]
[Footnote 179: Protestant Mercury, July 10, 1700.]
[Footnote 180: London Spy.]
Men used to travel the country on horseback and collect it, and it was not unfrequent for suspected highwaymen, when stopped and brought before the authorities, to declare they were dealers in hair, roaming about, following their avocation--although it could not have been a very remunerative one, if we can believe the advertisements for the apprehension of deserters from the army: 'said he was a dealer in hair' being frequently mentioned. Here is an advertisement which gives a graphic picture of one of these gentry: 'Lost on Tuesday Night last the 14th Instant, about 6 in the Evening, from behind a Gentleman in Piccadilly, a Pair of Bags, in which were three Bladders with Hair in, two Holland Shirts, Neckcloaths, and other Linnen, A Leather Bag with an Iron Instrument and Hair in it, a pair of small Perriwig Cards, with Read the Maker's Name in Flower de Luce Court in Fleet Street, and other small matters beside,'[181] etc.; and we may note that 'At the Sugar Loaf in Bishopsgate Street near Cornhil, is the House of Call, where Perriwig Makers can have Men, and Men may have Masters.'[182]
[Footnote 181: Daily Courant, Oct. 17, 1712.]
[Footnote 182: Postman, Nov. 13/16, 1708 (? misprint for 1707).]
'Did you ever see a Creature more ridiculous than that stake of human nature which dined the other day at our house, with his great long wig to cover his head and face; which was no bigger than a Hackney Turnep, and much of the same form and shape? Bless me, how it looked! just like a great Platter of French Soup, with a little bit of flesh in the middle. Did you mark the beau tiff of his wig, what a deal of pains he took to toss it back, when the very weight thereof was like to draw him from his seat?'[183] And they must have been heavy. 'His Wigg I believe had a pound of Hair and two pounds of powder in't.'[184] And again, 'One Impudent Correcter of Jade's Flesh, had run his Poles against the back Leather of a foregoing Coach, to the great dammage of a Beau's Reins, who peeping out of the Coach door, with at least a fifty Ounce Wig on,' etc.[185]
[Footnote 183: The Levellers, a Dialogue.]
[Footnote 184: The Gamesters.]
[Footnote 185: London Spy.]
The furbelow, or dress wig, was sometimes called a 'long Duvillier' (see Tatler 29), from a famous French perruquier of that name; and these wigs were not only long, but tall: vide the humorous advertisement in the Tatler (180): 'N.B. Dancing Shoes, not exceeding four inches in height in the heels, and periwigs not exceeding three feet in length, are carried in the coach box gratis.' Not to have it in perfect curl was unendurable. 'I think standing in the Pillory cannot be a more sensible Ignominy to a Gentleman that wears tolerable Cloaths, than appearing in Publick with a rumpled Periwig.'[186] Pretty dears! they used to carry ivory or tortoiseshell combs, curiously ornamented, with them, and comb their precious wigs in public--ay, the most public places--walking in the Park, or sitting in the Beau's Paradise, the side box of the theatre, and when paying visits. But it seems to have been in anybody's power, by the exercise of a little trouble, to keep his wig in proper curl.[187] 'The Secret White Water to Curl Gentlemen's Hair, Children's Hair, or fine Wigs withal, that are out of Curl; being used over Night, according to Directions, it performs a Curl by next Morning as substantial and durable as that of a new Wig, without damaging the Beauty of the Hair one jot; by it old Wigs that look almost scandalous, may be made to shew inconceivably fine and neat, and if any single Lock or part of a Wig be out of Curl, by the pressing of the Hat or riding in windy or rainy Weather, in one Night's time it may be repaired hereby to Satisfaction. The Directions are so ample and large that Gentlemen's Men may perform the work with all the ease imaginable, the like thing never done before. Invented by an able Artist, and sold only at the Glover's Shop under the Castle Tavern, Fleet Street. Price 1_s._ a Bottle.'
[Footnote 186: The Gentleman Cully, ed. 1702.]
[Footnote 187: Postman, Sept 23/26, 1710.]
These wigs were expensive--that is, if Steele and Addison do not exaggerate. Take this example from the Tatler, No. 54. 'He answered Phillis a little abruptly at supper the same evening, upon which she threw his perriwig into the fire. "Well," said he, "thou art a brave termagant jade; do you know, hussy, that fair wig cost forty guineas?"' And in the Guardian (No. 97), 'This gave me some encouragement; so that to mend the matter, I bought a fine flaxen long wig that cost me thirty guineas.' But there were wigs and wigs, and probably these highly priced ones were somewhat abnormal; at all events, ordinary people could not have afforded them, for we find Swift loud in his laments about paying three guineas for one.[188] 'It has cost me three guineas to day for a periwig. I am undone! It was made by a Leicester lad, who married Mrs. Worrall's daughter, where my mother lodged; so I thought it would be cheap, and especially since he lives in the city.'
[Footnote 188: Journal to Stella, let. 13.]
It must not be imagined that the periwig was the only variety. On the contrary, there were several kinds of wig. 'I had an humble Servant last Summer, who the first time he declared himself, was in a Full Bottom'd Wigg; but the Day after, to my no small Surprize, he accosted me in a thin Natural one. I received him, at this our second Interview, as a perfect Stranger, but was extreamly confounded, when his speech discovered who he was. I resolved, therefore, to fix his Face in my Memory for the future; but as I was walking in the Park the same Evening, he appeared to me in one of those Wiggs that I think you call a Night Cap, which had altered him more effectually than before. He afterwards played a Couple of Black Riding Wiggs upon me, with the same Success,'[189] etc. The 'Night Cap' wig was a sort of periwig, with a short tie and a small round head. Then there was a 'Campaign' wig, which was imported from France; and this was made very full, was curled, and eighteen inches in length in the front, with drop locks. In the contemporary prints of Marlborough's victories, the back part of the wig is sometimes shown as being put in a black silk bag. We get an approximate idea of their value from the following advertisement: 'Lost &c. a Campaign Perriwig, fair Hair with a large Curl, value about 7 guineas,' etc.
[Footnote 189: Spectator, No. 319 (Budgell).]
I have come across one mention of a 'Spanish Wigg,' but as this was worn by a runaway ship's apprentice, it was probably of foreign manufacture, and the species had no place here. Lastly, there was the 'Bob' wig, or attempt to imitate the natural head of hair. This wig was mostly in use among the lower orders; and many are the descriptions of it, and its various colours, in the advertisements for army deserters. But the better class also used it. We have seen, in the Spectator, No. 319, how a man wore 'a thin Natural' wig; so also we read in Steele's 'Lying Lover,' 'What shall I do for powder for this smart Bob?'
The proper quality, and quantity, of his powder, must have been a serious weight upon the mind of a beau. Its groundwork, or basis, was starch, very finely ground and sifted; but this was adulterated with burnt alabaster, plaster of Paris (which was called in the trade Old Doctor), whitening, fine flour, flour from pearl barley, and other things; and it was scented--well, we should think to a sickening degree--with ambergris, musk and civet, violets, orris root, rose, bergamot, orange flowers, and jessamine. And there were different coloured hair powders. The black was made with starch, Japan ink, and ivory black; a cheaper sort was made of pounded coal-dust. Brown was made with starch and umber--according to the shade required. Grey was produced by mixing some of the black powder with more starch, and adding a little smalts.
Gay presents us with a curious little piece of economy:--
When suffocating Mists obscure the Morn Let thy worst Wig, long us'd to Storms, be worn; This knows the powder'd Footman, and with Care, Beneath his flapping Hat, secures his Hair.[190]
[Footnote 190: Trivia, book 1.]
We are indebted also to Gay[191] for the following vivid description of the manner in which the beaus were robbed of their cherished chevelure:--
[Footnote 191: Ibid. book 3.]
Nor is thy Flaxen Wigg with Safety worn; High on the Shoulder, in the Basket born, Lurks the sly Boy; whose Hand to Rapine bred, Plucks off the curling Honours of the Head.
This was an ingenious plan, but it was almost equalled in the very early years of George I. by a practice which sprang up, of cutting a hole in the leather backs of the carriages, boldly clutching the occupant's wig, and dragging it through the hole.
Some few had the courage to wear their own hair, and here is a hairdresser's advertisement on the subject:[192] 'Next door to the Golden Bell in St. Bride's Lane Fleet Street, Liveth Lydia Beecroft, who Cutteth and Curleth Ladies, Gentlemen's, and Childrens Hair; and selleth a fine Pomatum, which is mixt with Ingredients of her own making, that if the Hair be never so Thin, it makes it grow Thick; if Short, it makes it grow Long: If any Gentlemens or Childrens Hair be never so Lank, she makes it Curle in a little time like a Periwig. She waits on Ladies, if desir'd, on Tuesdays and Fridays; the other Days of the Week, she is to be spoken with at Home.' So that we see the 'Professors' of those days were very similar to their congeners of ours, and had invaluable nostrums--'prepared only by,' etc. Bear's grease used to be imported from Russia; but a spurious kind was also sold, made out of dog's, or goat's, fat, or rancid hog's lard. There were common, hard, black, and brown pomatums, to say nothing of powders and liquids for thickening the hair, principally made of burdock root and small beer, and a powder for cleansing the hair, made with cassia wood and white vitriol.
[Footnote 192: Harl. MSS. 5931, 242.]
We next come to the neckcloth, as no collar or band of the shirt was shown; and the one most in fashion was the 'Steinkirk, so called from the battle of that name, which was fought on Aug. 3, 1692, when the English under William III. were defeated, and the campaign broken up. This style of neckcloth was introduced from Paris, and it was highly fashionable there, because its negligent style was popularly supposed to imitate the disordered dress of the victorious French generals, who were so eager to rush into the fight that they did not stop to finish dressing--or, at all events, to tie their neckcloths. It was a very graceful fashion, and the ends, which were laced or fringed, were sometimes tucked in the waistcoat or shirt. They are frequently alluded to as 'snuff grimed.' Ladies also wore them, as in 'The Careless Husband' Lady Easy 'takes her Steinkirk from her Neck and lays it gently over his Head.'
And there was the 'Berdash.' 'I have prepared a treatise against the Cravat and berdash, which I am told is not ill done.'[193] Some have imagined that the word haberdasher is derived from this neckcloth, but it is too ridiculous to think of for a moment, as there were haberdashers as early as Edward the Third's reign, and at the time of which we write there were 'haberdashers of hats.' In the epilogue to Mrs. Centlivre's 'Platonick Lady,' 'design'd to be spoken by Mrs. Bracegirdle but came too late,' it is mentioned--
[Footnote 193: Guardian, No. 10.]
Yet, tell me, Sirs, don't you as nice appear With your false Calves, Bardash, and Fav'rites here?[194] [pointing to her forehead.]
[Footnote 194: Small curls on the forehead.]
The Daily Courant, Nov. 4, 1708, says: 'Also very fine Muslin Neckcloths to be sold at 5_s._ a Piece.'
A gentleman's shirt was of fine holland, and was somewhat dear--the fronts were worn very open, and the ruffles were not laced, at least for ordinary wear: this piece of extravagance was reserved for a later time. Showing so much of the shirt necessitated clean linen, but it is hardly likely that many followed the example of Tom Modely,[195] whose 'business in this world is to be well dressed; and the greatest circumstance that is to be recorded in his annals is that he wears twenty shirts a week.' That they were costly, we may judge from the fact that Swift was not extravagant in his dress, and that he bought them first-hand in Holland, by means of his friend Harrison, who was under great obligations to him. '28 Feb. 1718. I have sent to Holland for a dozen shirts,'[196] etc.--and again he writes: 'Jan. 31, 1713. I paid him (Harrison) while he was with me seven guineas, in part of a dozen of shirts he bought me in Holland.'
[Footnote 195: Tatler, No. 166.]
[Footnote 196: Journal to Stella.]
This having the waistcoat unbuttoned to show the shirt is very frequently mentioned, but it was eminently a young man's practice. A lady, speaking of her husband, says: 'You must know, he tells me that he finds London is a much more healthy place than the Country; for he sees several of his old acquaintance and schoolfellows are here young fellows with fair full-bottomed perriwigs. I could scarce keep him this morning from going out open breasted.'[197] Again[198]: 'There is a fat fellow whom I have long remarked, wearing his breast open in the midst of winter, out of an affectation of youth. I have therefore sent him just now the following letter in my physical capacity:--
[Footnote 197: Tatler, No. 95.]
[Footnote 198: Ibid. 246.]
'"Sir,
"From the twentieth instant to the first of May next, both days inclusive, I beg of you to button your waistcoat from your collar to your waistband."'
It was supposed to have a most killing effect on the fair sex. 'A sincere heart has not made half so many conquests as an open waistcoat.'[199] The waistcoats, otherwise, were seldom mentioned; they were long, but not so long as they afterwards became; and, with the exception of very fine suits, seem to have been quite plain. One or two advertisements of fine clothes will tell us a great deal about them. 'Lost &c.--a Red Waistcoat Wove in with Gold, 2 Cravats, and 2 pair of Ruffles, 1 being grounded Lace very fine, the other Colebatteen.' 'Stolen &c.--a new Cinnamon Colour Cloth Coat, Wastcoat and Breeches, Embroider'd with Silver 4 or 5 inches deep down before, and on the Sleeves, and round the Pocket Holes and the Pockets and Knees of the Breeches. They are lin'd with a Sky Blue Silk.' 'Left in a Hackney Coach &c. a light brown colour'd Hanging Coat, with long Sleeves, upper Cape Black Velvet, with Gold Buttons and Button Holes.' 'Taken from a Gentleman's House &c. a Dove Coloured Cloth Suit embroider'd with Silver, and a pair of Silk Stockings of the same Colour; a Grey Cloth Suit with Gold Buttons and Holes; a Silk Drugget Salmon Coloured Suit lin'd with white Silk; a Silver Brocade Waistcoat trim'd with a knotted Silver Fringe, and lin'd with white Silk; A floured Satin Nightgown, lin'd with a Pink coloured Lustring, and a Cap and Slippers of the Same; a Thread Satin Nightgown, striped red and white, and lin'd with a Yellow Persian, and a Cap of the same; a yellow Damask Nightgown lin'd with Blue Persian; a Scarlet Silk net Sash to tye a Nightgown.' These were clothes fit for 'the prince of puppies, Colonel Edgworth,'[200] who went one day to see his brother who lived but a day's journey from him; yet he took with him a led horse loaded with portmanteaus. On his arrival, these were unpacked, and three suits of clothes, each finer than the other, were displayed on chairs, his nightgown on another, and his shaving plate all put out. Next morning he appeared at breakfast with his boots on, and his brother asked him where he was going for a ride before dinner. He replied that he was going home; that he had only just come to see him, and must go back at once, which he did. The poor man afterwards died mad in the common Bridewell at Dublin.
[Footnote 199: Ibid. 151.]
[Footnote 200: Journal to Stella, letter 6.]
Noblemen wore their stars on their coats, and their ribands, but it must have been a Collar day when the following happened: 'On Wednesday morning last between 11 and 12 at St. James's Gate, was dropt from a Nobleman's Coller of Esses, an enamel'd George; if brought to Mr. Mead's, a Goldsmith, at the Black Lyon within Temple Bar, shall have a Guinea Reward, and no Questions ask'd.'[201] The reward does not indicate reckless prodigality on the part of the nobleman.
[Footnote 201: Postboy, Feb. 25, 1714.]
We have seen that there was a great variety of colours in men's clothing. A little curiosity in colour must not pass unnoticed.
The City Prentices, those upstart Beaus In short spruce Puffs and Vigo coloured clothes.[202]
--a colour which might puzzle for some time, were it not for the huge quantity of snuff captured at Vigo in 1702.
[Footnote 202: Epilogue to Mrs. Centlivre's Love's Contrivance, ed. 1703.]
There were clothes of Drap du Barri and D'Oyley suits, so called after the famous haberdasher, whose name still survives in the dessert napkin. They were made of drugget and sagathay, camlet, but the majority of men wore cloth. It is scarcely necessary to describe the shape of the coat, for the illustrations show it better than any printed description. There is but one peculiarity I would point out--that in 1711 the coats used to be wired to make them stick out. 'The Skirt of your fashionable Coats forms as large a Circumference as our Petticoats; as these are set out with Whalebone, so are those with Wire, to encrease and sustain the Bunch of Fold that hangs down on each side.'[203]
[Footnote 203: Spectator, No. 145.]
The cheap clothiers lived in Monmouth Street, St. Giles (now called Dudley Street), and there was no love lost between them and their higher-priced brethren, as the following advertisement shows: 'Whereas the Monmouth Street Men and other Taylors in and about the City, have by divers Advertisements in the Postman and other publick Prints, and by Bills given from Door to Door, boasted what mighty Pennyworths Persons may have of them, in selling Sagathy and Druggit Suits, the smallest sized Men for 3 Guineas, and the largest sizes for £3 10_s._ and Men's Cloth Suits at £4 and £4 10_s._ This is to acquaint all Persons that have occasion for such Suits, if they please to make Tryal, may have the same as Cheap in Birchin lane, and as well and as fashionable made, and may be assured of seeing more choice both of broad Cloaths, Camblet, Druggits and Sagathys than many of those Upstarts can pretend to.'[204]
[Footnote 204: Postman, Nov. 15, 1707.]
A perusal of the advertisements of these 'Monmouth Street Men' confirms these prices, and one will serve as a type of all. 'At the sign of the Golden Heart in Monmouth Street in St. Giles' in the Fields. All Gentlemen and Others, may be Furnished with all sorts of Cloathes and chuse their Patterns and have them made very well and Fashionable, of Cloath, Druggets, or Sagathie, the first size Drugget or Sagathie at Three Pounds, the second size at Three Guineas, and the largest size at Three Pound Ten Shillings; with all sorts of Cloath Suits very Reasonable, and Cheaper than any hath yet pretended to make them: With all sorts of Plain Liveries at Three Pound Fifteen and Four Pound a Suit, and Laced Liveries proportionable; As likewise all sorts of Camblet Suits very Reasonable, and Campaign Coats at Fifteen or Sixteen Shillings a Coat; All sorts and sizes of Boys Cloathes very Good and Cheap.'[205] In reading these advertisements, and indeed in all quotations of price, the different value of money--then and now--should never be forgotten; three pounds being equivalent to seven or eight. So that, according to our ideas, clothing was dearer then than now.
[Footnote 205: Harl. MSS. 5931, 205.]
In the country, owing to the very little correspondence between it and the metropolis, of course the fashions were some time in reaching remote distances, and were equally long in departing from thence, to make way for new ones. Addison humorously describes the fashions for men in Cornwall in 1711. 'From this place, during our progress through the most western parts of the kingdom, we fancied ourselves in King Charles the Second's reign, the people having made very little variations in their dress since that time. The smartest of the country Squires appear still in the Monmouth Cock, and when they go a wooing, whether they have any post in the militia or not, they generally put on a red coat. We were indeed very much surprised, at the place we lay at last night, to meet with a gentleman that had accoutred himself in a night cap wig, a coat with long pockets and slit sleeves, and a pair of shoes with high scallop tops; but we soon found by his conversation that he was a person who laughed at the ignorance and rusticity of the country people, and was resolved to live and die in the mode.'[206]
[Footnote 206: Spectator, 129.]
Of men's breeches, and the materials of which they were made, very little mention is made; but the stocking is frequently brought to notice. They were of cloth, knitted woollen, thread, and silk. The latter were of all colours, to suit the beaus' costumes, but black silk was the wear of your well-to-do citizen, professional man, or gentleman. Misson says 'The English Silk Stockings are one of its famous Merchandizes;' and solemn old Thoresby records how he and his cousin 'bought each a pair of black silk rolling stockings in Westminster Hall.' There is no mention of gaiters as a protection against cold, rain, or mud. Addison grumbles that 'another informs me of a pair of silver Garters buckled below the knee, that have lately been seen at the Rainbow Coffee house in Fleet Street,'[207] and considers it his mission 'to Correct those Depraved Sentiments that give Birth to all those little Extravagances which appear in their outward Dress and Behaviour.'
[Footnote 207: Ibid. 16.]
With regard to shoes, there seems to have been much foppery. Red heels are specially railed against by the Spectator. The beaus wore the heels very high, as indeed was the fashion with the fair sex. Gay speaks, among his de omnibus rebus, of shoes, and gives the following advice[208]:--
[Footnote 208: Trivia, book 1.]
When the Black Youth at chosen Stands rejoice, And Clean your Shoes resounds from ev'ry Voice; When late their miry Sides Stage Coaches show, And their stiff Horses thro' the Town move slow; When all the Mall in leafy Ruin lies, And Damsels first renew their Oyster Cries: Then let the prudent Walker Shoes provide Not of the Spanish or Morocco Hide; The wooden Heel may raise the Dancer's Bound, And with the 'scallop'd Top his Step be crown'd: Let firm, well hammer'd Soles protect thy Feet Thro' freezing Snows, and Rains, and Soaking Sleet. Should the big Laste extend the Shoe too wide, Each Stone will wrench th' unwary Step aside: The sudden Turn may stretch the swelling Vein, Thy cracking Joint unhinge, or Ankle sprain; And when too short the modish Shoes are worn, You'll judge the Seasons by your shooting Corn.
Shoe-strings had gone out, and buckles were in fashion; but they had not assumed the proportions they did in after years. Boots were never worn except for riding; and there was in this reign very little improvement on the heavy and clumsy riding-boot of William the Third's time, which was still worn by Marlborough and his cavalry. Many are the pairs, with their spurs, that are advertised for as being left in coaches.
In those days of bad pavements and defective sewage, when men had hardly begun the general use of the chair, and a coach was, as now, the luxury of the few, shoeblacks were a necessity; and, although a man might, like the Templar in 'Sir Roger de Coverley,' 'have his shoes rubbed and his periwig powdered at the Barber's, as you go unto the Rose,' yet a large number of 'Black Youth at chosen Stands rejoice; and Clean your Shoes resounds from ev'ry Voice.' They were very numerous; and from them is derived our word blackguard, for so were they called about Charing Cross and White Hall.
There were different kinds of blacking, but, judging from the dispraise awarded to each other's goods by rival manufacturers, they could have been neither pleasant nor effective. 'London Fucus for Shoes; being an unparallel'd Composition of the most pure and rich Blacks, Choice Oils, &c., and is a thing so adapted to this Use, that the World never yet produc'd the like Invention, having gain'd a General Applause, causing the straitest Shooes to wear with delight and ease; beautifies them to admiration, preserves the Leather from cracking or rotting to the very last; and frees the Feet from all Pains, Corns, Swellings, &c.... Price 12_d._ a Roll. Note, one Roll serves one Person near half a year.' And then the famous 'Spanish Blacking' advertised, and called the poor 'Fucus' names.
The little odds and ends of male attire must be noted. Gloves, for instance, were in constant use, and we have seen how prodigally they were given away at funerals. The ire of the Spectator was aroused by a custom, then just brought up, of edging them with silver fringe, but this luxurious practice does not seem to have obtained for very long.
The pocket-handkerchiefs, owing to the prevalence of the practice of snuff-taking, were nearly always of silk, though cambric was used; and although we do not hear of 'Moral Pocket-handkerchiefs,' they were somewhat similarly utilised, as the following advertisement shows: 'A Silk Handkerchief Printed, with a Draught of the Roads of England according to Mr. Ogleby's Survey, shewing the Roads and distance in measured Miles from London to the several Cities and Towns in England. Also the Victory Handkerchief, which gives an account of the Success of 5 most glorious Victories obtain'd by the Confederates over the French. Ornamented with the Arms of the Empire and Great Britain, Prussia and Holland: They will both Wash in a weak Lather of Soap without Prejudice. Price 2_s._ 6_d._' Others were printed with the Queen's Speech to Parliament, April 5, 1710; the standards and ensigns taken from the French, with the queen's effigies at full length; Dr. Sacheverell and the six bishops who voted with him; the four seasons of the year with the sun in the centre, curiously ornamented; and the last one I can find advertised in Anne's reign was one printed on white silk with 'An Abstract of the Peace made between England and France, with the lively Effigies of all the Confederates, Princes and the several Plenipotentiaries at Utrecht.'
In the early part of Anne's reign it was fashionable for men to wear muffs, as it had been ever since Charles the Second's time. Ward (1703) says: 'What is he in the long Whig, with his Fox skin Muff upon his Button, and his Pocket book in his Hand? Why he (replied my schoolfellow) is a Beau.' But they seem to have become less popular in 1710 (vide Tatler, No. 155). 'I saw he was reduced to extreme poverty, by certain shabby superfluities in his dress: for, notwithstanding that it was a very sultry day for the time of the year, he wore a loose great Coat and a Muff,' etc. Yet in 1711 Addison writes (Spectator, No. 16): 'I have receiv'd a Letter, desiring me to be very satyrical upon the little Muff that is now in Fashion.'
Every gentleman carried a sword, and we are able to get accurate descriptions of them, from the very numerous descriptions of them in the advertisements of lost and stolen swords--how they used to lose them! Probably the company at the tavern or club was jovial, the claret good, and the way home was badly lit, and in the morning the silver-hilted sword was a-missing. I wonder if they ever got them back? They cried after them loudly enough, although they did not offer great rewards, a guinea or so at the outside. Gay thus warns the walker in the streets:--
Where the Mob gathers, swiftly shoot along, Nor idly mingle in the noisy Throng. Lur'd by the Silver Hilt, amid the Swarm, The subtil Artist will thy Side disarm.
With a beau, his sword, as every other part of his dress, received his special attention, and he very seldom was without it, except when dancing. His sword-knot was of some gay colour, and was very long; and he was solicitous as to the carriage of his sword. 'But my sword--does it hang careless?' asks Bookwit in the 'Lying Lover'; and yet withal the hilts very seldom seem to have been of much value, either diamond-cut steel, gilt, or plain silver hilts. The following are some of the better sort, and of the most artistic merit. 'A large plain Silver hilted Sword with Scrowls and gilt in parts, with a broad gutter'd hollow Blade gilt at the shoulder, and the edges ground very sharp and a strong silver gilt handle.' 'A Hanger with a fine Aggat Haft, Belt, and Silver buckle.' 'A Silver gilt Sword, done with several Figures, with a Chequer Gold handle done one half of it with a Black Ribbon.' 'A Silver and Gold Hilted Sword wrought with Figures and Images about the handle, being tyed with a broad black Ribbon, the Blade broad from the Hilt halfway, and stain'd with blew and Gold.' 'A Silver and Gold hilted Sword of a Trophy Pattern, with a man on Horseback on the Middle of the Pommel, and the same in the Shell, with the Figures lying down on each side of the Horse, the Button of the Pommel being in Squares.'
Here is an advertisement which shows how a poor innocent was led astray: 'June 24, 1712. Whereas a Gentleman coming to Bradbery's Hazard Table last Night, and not a Gamester, but brought by an Acquaintance to see the Nature of it, lost his Silver hilted Sword, which some of the Company took from his side; This is to give Notice that any body that produces the Sword to Mr. John Waters, Perfumer, in the Strand, over against the Talbot Inn; or to Mr. Hosier, over against the Bunch of Grapes in New Street, Fetter Lane, shall have 10_s._ Reward, and no Questions ask'd; and if the Sword is not produc'd, the Man that keeps the Table will be indited.'
Towards the end of Anne's reign swords were worn of a preposterous length, which excited the satire of the Guardian.[209] 'When Jack Lizard made his first trip to town from the university, he thought he could never bring up with him enough of the gentleman; this I soon perceived in the first visit he made me, when I remember, he came scraping in at the door, encumbered with a bar of Cold iron so irksomely long, that it banged against his Calf, and jarred upon his right heel, as he Walked, and came rattling behind him as he ran down the stairs. But his sister Annabella's raillery soon cured him of this awkward air, by telling him that his sword was only fit for going up stairs, or walking up hill, and that she shrewdly suspected he had stolen it out of the College kitchen.'
[Footnote 209: Guardian, No. 143.]
Equal, at least, in importance to the sword, was the cane, 'the nice conduct' of which was part of a gentleman's education--and, if swords were plentifully lost or stolen, how many more despairing owners mourned their canes? There were useful, as well as ornamental canes.
If the Strong Cane support thy walking Hand, Chairmen no longer shall the Wall command; Ev'n sturdy Car-men shall thy Nod obey, And rattling Coaches stop to make thee Way: This shall direct thy Cautious Tread aright, Though not one glaring Lamp enliven Night. Let Beaus their Canes with Amber tipt produce, Be theirs for empty Show, but thine for use.[210]
[Footnote 210: Trivia, book 1.]
The majority of those lost were hardly worth advertising for; but we will pick out a few, as specimens of what the better sort were like: 'A fine Cane with a Gold Head, engraved with a Cypher and Crown on the top of it.[210] 'A Cane with an Aggot head.' 'A small cane with an Amber head and a Black Silk Ribbond in it, a Princes Metal Hoop, and a Silver Ferril at the bottom.' 'A Cane with a Silver Head and a Black Ribbon in it, the top of it Amber, crack'd in two or three places, part of the Head to turn round, and in it a Perspective Glass.' 'A Cane with a croched Head, a Silver Ferrel and a Silver ring.' 'A Cane with a Silver Head, with the Figure of the Tower of Babel upon it, done in Chaced Work.' 'A Cane with a Silver Head and Scent Box, and a Ferril of Silver at the Bottom.'
His snuff-box, too, was an object of his solicitude, though, as the habit of taking snuff had but just come into vogue, there were no collections of them, and no beau had ever dreamed of criticising a box as did Lord Petersham, as 'a nice Summer box.' So many of them have come down to us that they need no description, and I may merely say that those of the middle classes were chiefly of silver, or tortoise-shell, or mother-of-pearl; sometimes of 'Aggat'--or with a 'Moco Stone' in the lid. A beau would sometimes either have a looking-glass, or the portrait of a lady inside the lid.
We have seen how proud the beau was of his watch, which he wore in a fob, or pocket, in his breeches. A seal or two, generally of small value, and a watch key, were attached to it by a ribbon; chains, either of gold, silver, or steel, being sparingly used. The seals, of course, were then necessary, as, there being no gummed envelopes, every letter had to be properly sealed, either by wax or wafer. Tompion was the great watch-maker, and he lived at the Three Crowns, at the corner of Water Lane in Fleet Street, where he was afterwards succeeded by George Graham. The value of Tompion's watches may be gathered from the fact that from seven to ten guineas were generally offered for their recovery when lost, or from eighteen to twenty-five guineas of our money.
The watch of that day, and indeed of the whole Georgian era, consisted of the watch proper, and an outer ornamental case, which was lined with a pad of coloured velvet or satin, to make it fit tight to the watch. We now never see watch-cases made of other materials than the precious metals, or imitations thereof; but then, beautiful cases were made of shagreen of various colours, or tortoiseshell inlaid, or studded, with gold. Some beautiful specimens may be seen in the library of the Corporation of the City of London, in the Clockmakers' Company's collection.
As umbrellas were not used by men, as being too effeminate, and india-rubber waterproofing was only to be discovered more than a century later, men, in Anne's reign, had to put their trust in good broadcloth coats or cloaks.
Nor should it prove thy less important Care, To Chuse a proper Coat for Winter's Wear. Now in thy Trunk thy Doily Habit fold, The silken Drugget ill can fence the cold; The Frieze's spongy Nap is soak'd with Rain, And Show'rs soon drench the Camlet's cockled Grain. True Witney Broad Cloth with its Shag unshorn, Unpierc'd is in the lasting Tempest worn: Be this the Horse man's Fence; for who would wear Amid the Town the Spoils of Russia's Bear? Within the Roquelaure's Clasp thy Hands are pent, Hands, that stretch'd forth invading Harms prevent. Let the looped Bavaroy the Fop embrace, Or his deep Cloak be spatter'd o'er with Lace. That Garment best the Winter's Rage defends, Whose shapeless Form in ample Plaits depends; By various Names[211] in various Counties known, Yet held in all the true Surtout alone: Be thine of Kersey firm, though small the Cost, Then brave unwet the Rain, unchill'd the Frost.[212]
[Footnote 211: A Joseph, a Wrap Rascal, etc.]
[Footnote 212: Trivia, book 1.]
Scarlet seems to have been the favourite colour for the roquelaure or cloak, and some must have been 'exceeding magnifical, scarlet rocklows and rocliers, with gold buttons and loops, being advertised as lost. Ah! the men of that time! they were always losing something.
In doors, in their hours of ease, the precious furbelow wig was discarded, and their closely cropped or shaved heads were clad in handsomely worked caps--called night caps, although only worn in the daytime; some kind of night cap having been an article of dress ever since the time of Elizabeth. They were as common presents from ladies to gentlemen, as a pair of slippers, or a smoking-cap would be now. Says Swift, 'Your fine Cap, Madam Dingley, is too little, and too hot. I will have that fur taken off; I wish it were far enough; and my old Velvet cap is good for nothing. Is it velvet under the fur? I was feeling but cannot find; if it be, it will do without it, else I will face it; but then I must buy new velvet: but may be I may beg a piece. What shall I do?'[213]
[Footnote 213: Journal to Stella, letter 8.]
The loose dressing gown, too, was called a night gown--why, I know not, because it was not worn at night. 'You must know I am in my night gown every morning betwixt six and seven, and Patrick is forced to ply me fifty times before I can get on my nightgown.'[214] They were made of costly materials as well as 'Callicoe'; indeed, they were generally of brocade, or some embroidered material. Men used even, early in the day, to lounge into the coffee-houses dressed in them. One example will show both their price and the materials of which they were sometimes made. 'Whereas on Tuesday the 23d of December last, 3 Night Gowns was agreed for, and taken away from a Shop in Exchange Alley, viz. One Man's Night-Gown of yellow Sattin with Red and white Flowers lined with a pale Blue Sattin, Value £6 10_s._ One ditto of blue Ground Sattin, with red and white Flowers, lined with a plain yellow Sattin, Value £5 10_s._ One ditto of red and white broad stript Thread Sattin, lined with a green and white Persian, Value £2 10_s._ for which the Payment left was not satisfactory. If the Person who bought the said Gowns will give notice to Mr. Gray at the Rainbow and Punch bowl in Gilt Spur Street, so as they may be had again, shall have 6 Guineas Reward, and no Questions asked.'
[Footnote 214: Journal to Stella, letter 8.]
As the ultimate fate of all these fine clothes was the old clothes man, a picture of him will as appropriately close this portion of the disquisition on male dress, as one of his mate will open that on female costume.
XIV. WOMEN'S DRESS
The commode -- Description of ladies' dress -- The petticoat -- The bodice -- A costly wardrobe -- Underlinen -- Dressing like men -- Scents -- Patches -- Patching Whig and Tory -- Masks -- The hood -- High-crowned hats -- Furs -- Umbrellas -- Pattens -- The fan -- Mobs -- Shopping -- Stuffs -- List of Indian stuffs -- Lace -- Linens -- Tallymen -- Jewellery -- Diamonds -- Plate -- Children's jewellery.
The 'commode' must have been so named on the same lucus à non lucendo principle as the night cap and gown; for a more inconvenient headdress, perhaps, was never invented. It originated in the Court of Louis XIV., and was there called a fontange because it had been introduced by Mademoiselle Fontange.[215] It was also named a 'head' or a 'top knot' and was made of rows of plaited muslin, or lace, stiffened with wire, one over the other, diminishing as they rose. During the reign, their fashion and shape altered very much, as is noticed by Addison: 'There is not so variable a thing in Nature as a Lady's Head Dress: Within my own Memory I have known it rise and fall above thirty Degrees. About ten years ago it shot up to a very great Height, insomuch that the Female Part of our Species were much taller than the men.'[216] The numerous examples given in the illustrations of this book render any further reference to the 'commode' unnecessary, as the reader will there see it depicted in every stage. The cut on this page is only given because it shows it on a larger scale than any other, and is, besides, interesting, as forming one of a pack of cards (1707).
[Footnote 215: It is said to have had its origin in a hunting party, where the hair of the royal favourite got loose. She hurriedly tied her laced handkerchief round her head; and the effect produced was so pretty, and artistic, that it delighted Louis XIV., who begged her to keep it so arranged for the remainder of the day--a hint not wasted on the other ladies, who next day appeared 'coiffées à la Fontange.']
[Footnote 216: Spectator, No. 98, June 21, 1711.]
Ward gives us his definition of a Belle, or 'Modish Lady,' as he prefers to call her, who was--
At Hackney, Stepney, or at Chealsea Bred, In Dancing perfect and in Plays well Read. .............................................. Impatient of Extreams, with Pride half Craz'd, Then must her Head, a Story higher be rais'd. In her next Gaudy Gown, her Sweeping Train Is order'd to be made as long again; All things must vary from the common Rode, And reach a Size beyond the Decent Mode: Thus Monstrously Adorn'd, to make a show, } She walks in State, and Courtsies very low, } And is a proper Mistress for the Fool, a Beau.[217] }
[Footnote 217: London Spy.]
We get a very good, and at the same time humorous, description of female dress in 1707 out of Mrs. Centlivre's play of 'The Platonick Lady,' wherein one of the characters is Mrs. Dowdy, 'a Somersetshire Widow, come to Town to learn Breeding.'
Act. 3. Enter Mrs. Dowdy, Mrs. Brazon the Matchmaker, Mrs. Wheedle the Milliner, Mrs. Turnup the Manto Maker, Mrs. Crispit the Tire Woman, and Peeper, her Maid. They all seem Talking to her.
Mrs. Dowdy. We'l, we'l la you now, la you now, Shour and Shour you'l Gally me.
Turnup. Here's your Ladyships Manto and Petticoat.
Mrs. Dowdy. Ladyship, why what a main difference is here between this Town and the Country. I was never call'd above Forsooth in all my Life. Mercy on me, why you ha spoil'd my Petticoat, mum: zee, Peeper, she has cut it in a Thousand Bits.
Peeper. Oh, that's the Fashion, these are Furbelows Madam--'tis the prettiest made Coat.
Mrs. Dowdy. Furbelows, a murrain take 'em, they spoil all the Zilk. Good strange, shour London Women do nothing but study Vashions, they never mind their Dairy I warrant 'em.
Turnup. Ladies have no other employment for their Brain--and our Art lies in hiding the defects of Nature. Furbelows upwards, were devised for those that have no hips, and too large ones, brought up the full bottom'd Furbelows.
Milliner. And a long Neck and a hollow Breast, first made use of the Stinkirk--and here's a delicate one for your Ladyship. I have a Book in my pocket just come from France, Intituled, The Elements of the Toylet.
Mrs. Dowdy. Elements, mercy on me! what do they get up in the Sky now?
Peeper. A Learned Author to be sure,--let me see that, Mrs. Wheedle.
Milliner. Here, Mrs. Peeper, 'tis the Second Volume; the first only shews an Alphabetical Index of the most notable Pieces which enter into the Composition of a Commode.
Mrs. Dowdy. Well, I shall ne'er mind these hard Names; Oh Sirs, Peeper, what swinging Cathedral Headgeer is this?
Peeper. Oh, Modish French Night Clothes; Madam, what's here--all sorts of dresses painted to the Life. Ha, ha, ha, head cloaths to shorten the Face. Favourites to raise the Forehead--to heighten flat cheeks flying Cornets--four Pinners to help narrow Foreheads and long Noses, and very forward, to make the Eyes look Languishing.
Mrs. Dowdy. Ay--that, Peeper, double it down, I love Languishing.
Peeper. Take it and read it at your leisure, Madam.
Mrs. Dowdy. I shall never ha done shour zeeing all my vine things. Hy day, what's these two pieces of Band Box for?
Turnup. 'Tis Past board, Madam, for your Ladyship's Rump.[218]
[Footnote 218: The extremely bouffée furbelows were called rumpt furbelows, and the brooches inserted in the centre were called rump jewels or rumphlets.]
Mrs. Dowdy. A Rump, ho, ho, ho, has Cousin Isbel a Rump, Peeper?
Peeper. Certainly Madam.
Mrs. Dowdy. If Cousin has one, as I hope to be kiss'd, I'll have it, Mrs. Turnup.
It is hardly within the scope of this work to follow the varying fashions of the reign, so one more extract must suffice. It is from 'The Humours of the Army,' by Charles Shadwell (a son, or nephew, of the Poet Laureate, 1713): 'But there are some fashionable Creatures at the other End of the Town, that give great Hopes of their being very odd and Whimsical; for their Head dresses are no bigger than the Skull-caps they us'd to wear; their Petticoats are up to their knees; their Stays up to their chins; and their Fans up to their Nostrils; and the mody Shrug makes 'em wear their shoulders up to their Ears; their Lappets reach down to the Frenching of their Petticoats, which are widen'd with Abundance of Whalebone; They stoop forward when they should walk upright; they shuffle along a tip Toe, curtsey on one Side, smile on those they would ridicule, and look very grave on their intimate acquaintances.'
Begin my Muse and sing in Epick Strain The PETTICOAT; (nor shalt thou sing in vain, The PETTICOAT will sure reward thy Pain!)[219]
[Footnote 219: The Petticoat; an Heroi-Comical Poem, by Joseph Gay (pseudo for J. Durant de Brevel), 1716.]
Before its introduction, women to improve their figures, or to follow the fashion, wore false hips, but these speedily disappeared when the hooped petticoat made its appearance, about 1709. Addison wrote a very funny paper, a mock trial of it,[220] in which the arguments for and against are duly heard, and he winds up his judgment with 'I consider women as a beautiful romantic animal, that may be adorned with furs and feathers, pearls and diamonds, ores and silks. The lynx shall cast its skin at her feet to make her a tippet; the peacock, parrot and swan shall pay contribution to her muff, the sea shall be searched for shells, and the rocks for gems; and every part of nature furnish out its share towards the embellishment of a creature that is the most consummate work of it. All this I shall indulge them in; but as for the petticoat I have been speaking of, I neither can nor will allow it.' Vain, idle words! the fashion crept on, until under the Georges it was absolutely outrageous. At present it was a somewhat mild hooping of whalebone, compressible--at least such was the under framework; for the word petticoat meant the skirt of the dress--over which was the furbelow. They were made of varied and rich materials; one example will serve to illustrate: 'Stolen &c. A Cloth Colour Gown and Petticoat of Grazet, an Ash Coloured Grazet Gown and Petticoat, a Hair Colour plush Petticoat, a black Russel Petticoat flower'd, an Ash colour Silk Quilted Petticoat, a Cloth Colour'd Silk Sattinet Gown and Petticoat,' etc.
[Footnote 220: Tatler, 116.]
The bodices were laced, open in front, over very tight stays, showing them; and they varied in material from 'a pair of stays cover'd with Black Tabby Stitched, lin'd with Flannel,' to one 'with 8 diamond Buckles and Tags,' for which Sir Richard Hoare, of the Golden Bottle in Fleet Street, would give the finder twelve guineas. The bodices were worn low, showing the bosom--which, however, was partially concealed by the 'tucker' or 'modesty piece,' which was an edging going round the top of the dress and front of the bosom. In 1713 this was beginning to be discontinued, and deep, and many, were the growls over it in the Guardian.
The sleeves of the bodice were somewhat short (only coming a little below the bend of the arm), and were worn hanging, to show the white muslin, or lace, hanging sleeve, which came nearly to the wrist--a very pretty fashion; and an apron was worn, made somewhat ornamental by frilling, etc.
This formed the outward costume of a lady; only sometimes it was of extremely rich material, vide the following: 'Stolen out of the house of Mr. Peter Paggen in Love Lane near Eastcheap ... One Isabella colour Kincob Gown flowered with Green and Gold, one Silver lace half Ell deep; One Silver Orrice a quarter of a Yard deep; A large Parcel of Black and Silver Fringe; One dark colour Cloth Gown and Petticoat with 2 Silver Orrices; One Purple and Gold Atlas Gown; One Scarlet and Gold Atlas Petticoat edged with Silver; One wrought under Petticoat edged with Gold; one Black Velvet Petticoat; three Black and White Norwich Stuff Gowns and Petticoats; one Black fine Cloth Gown and 2 Petticoats; One White Satin Gown lined with Black Silk; One Alejah Petticoat striped with Green, Gold, and White; One Silver Net half Yard deep; One White Sarsnet Scarf; Two Yards of White and Gold Atlas; one Blue and Silver Silk Gown and Petticoat; One Blue and Gold Atlas Gown and Petticoat; Two Silver Laces each a quarter of a Yard deep, One yellow Chintz Gown and Petticoat, one Workt Petticoat; one White Holland Gown and Petticoat drawn for Stitchin; One pair of Shoes and Clogs laced with Silver; One dark Colour Cloth Petticoat with a Silver Orrice, one White Sarsnet Scarf,' etc.
Of ladies' underlinen we get a glimpse in the following: 'Lost &c., a deal box containing 4 fine Holland Shifts, 7 fine Cambric Handkerchiefs, 2 Night rails and Aprons, one with edging and the other flowered, 2 yards of fine loopt Macklen Lace, one Suit of Muslen Lace Night Cloaths, 2 Holland Wastcoats, 3 Diaper Towels, One Powder Box and 6 combs.'
The stockings were either of thread or silk; in the latter case they were sometimes of bright colours. We have already seen how the little temptress of the New Exchange asked, 'Does not your Lady want ... fine green Silk Stockings?' The shoes were beautifully made, of satin or silk, embroidered, or of fine Morocco leather, with high heels.
Oddly enough, even in those days, which we are somehow inclined to clothe in idyllic simplicity, women dressed like men, as far as they could. Budgell notes this: 'They already appear in Hats and Feathers, Coats and Perriwigs.'[221] And Addison points out to them[222] that if their design in so doing is to 'smite more effectually their Male Beholders,' they are mistaken, for 'how would they be affected should they meet a Man on Horseback, in his Breeches and Jack Boots, and at the same time dressed up in a Commode and a Night raile?'
[Footnote 221: Spectator, 331.]
[Footnote 222: Ibid. 435.]
The same little feminine vanities existed then as now. We had a glance at the cosmetics and scents, so will only just give one more illustration which supplies some then missing scents. 'I have choice good Gloves, Amber, Orangery, Gensa, Romane, Frangipand, Nerol, Tuberose, Jessimine and Marshal. All manner of Tires for the Head, Locks, Frowzes and so forth;'[223] so that they were not altogether independent of the barber's art as regards false hair.
[Footnote 223: The Virtuoso.]
There stands the Toilette, Nursery of Charms, Compleatly furnish'd with bright Beauty's Arms; The Patch, the Powder Box, Pulville, Perfumes, Pins, Paint, a flatt'ring Glass, and Black lead Combs. ............................................... So Love with fatal Airs the Nymph supplies Her Dress disposes, and directs her Eyes. The Bosom now its naked Beauty Shows, Th' experienced Eye resistless Glances throws; Now vary'd Patches wander o'er the Face, And Strike each Gazer with a borrow'd Grace; The fickle Head dress sinks and now aspires, And rear's it's tow'ry Front on rising Wires: The Curling Hair in tortured Ringlets flows, Or round the Face in labour'd Order grows.[224]
[Footnote 224: The Fan.]
The mode of coiffure was far less pretentious than in succeeding reigns. When a cap or commode was worn, the hair, except in front, was almost entirely concealed. When worn without a cap, as in the house--especially for dress occasions--it was rolled, as in the accompanying illustration, in a style both elegant and informal.
That curious practice of patching the face was in force, but was used in greater moderation than either in the reign of Charles I., when suns, moons, stars, and even coaches and four were cut out of sticking plaister, and stuck on the face, and even the mercers patched, to show the effect to their customers--or in the Georgian era, when the face was covered with a sooty eruption. The effect on a pretty face, as shown in the accompanying illustration, is far from unpleasant. But it was an art, and required judgment.
Penelope. But alas, Madam, who patch'd you to Day? Let me see. It is the hardest thing in Dress. I may say without Vanity I know a little of it. That so low on the Cheeks pulps the Flesh too much. Hold still, my dear, I'll place it just by your Eye--(Aside) Now she downright squints.
Victoria. There's nothing like a sincere Friend; for one is not a judge of one's self. I have a Patch box about me. Hold, my dear, that gives you a sedate Air, that large one near your Temples.
Penelope. People, perhaps, don't mind these things: But if it be true, as the Poet finely sings, That all the Passions in the Features are, We may show, or hide 'em, as we know how to affix these pretty artificial Moles.
Victoria. And so catch Lovers, and puzzle Physiognomy.[225]
[Footnote 225: The Lying Lover.]
When not properly applied see the result. 'Han't I got too many Beauty Spots on, in my Mind now my Vace louks just like a Plumb Cake var all the World,'[226] whilst they possibly might call forth some uncomplimentary remarks, such as 'You pert Baggages, you think you are very handsome now, I warrant you. What a devil's this pound of hair upon your paltry frowses for? what a pox are those patches for? what, are your faces sore? I'd not kiss a Lady of this Age, by the Mass, I'd rather kiss my Horse.'[227]
[Footnote 226: The Platonick Lady.]
[Footnote 227: The Virtuoso.]
Misson notes the difference between his countrywomen and ours. 'The Use of Patches is not unknown to the French Ladies; but she that wears them must be young and handsome. In England, young, old, handsome, ugly, all are bepatch'd till they are Bed-rid. I have often counted fifteen Patches or more upon the swarthy wrinkled Phiz of an old Hag threescore and ten, and upwards. Thus the English Women refine upon our Fashions.'
One would hardly imagine that this fashion could have been pressed into the service of party passion, but so it was, if Addison was not jesting--and, after all, perhaps it is not so astonishing, when we recollect that the Tory ladies stayed away from the Queen's Drawing Room--on her Majesty's birthday too--because she gave a flattering reception, and a costly sword, to Prince Eugene: 'About the Middle of last Winter I went to see an Opera at the Theatre in the Haymarket, where I could not but take notice of two Parties of very fine Women, that had placed themselves in the opposite Side Boxes, and seemed drawn up in a kind of Battle Array one against another. After a short Survey of them, I found they were Patch'd differently; the Faces on one Hand being spotted on the right Side of the Forehead, and those upon the other, on the Left. I quickly perceived that they cast Hostile Glances upon one another; and that their Patches were placed in those different Situations, as Party Signals to distinguish Friends from Foes. In the Middle Boxes, between these two opposite Bodies, were several Ladies who Patched indifferently on both Sides of their Faces, and seem'd to sit there with no other Intention but to see the Opera. Upon Inquiry I found that the Body of Amazons on my right Hand were Whigs, and those on my Left, Tories: And that those who had placed themselves in the Middle Boxes were a Neutral Party, whose Faces had not yet declared themselves. These last however, as I afterwards found, diminished daily, and took their Party with one Side or the Other; insomuch that I observed in several of them, the Patches, which were before dispersed equally, are now all gone over to the Whig or Tory side of the Face.'[228]
[Footnote 228: Spectator, 81.]
It has been noticed that masks were used in the country by ladies when taking horse exercise; in fact, it was a substitute for the modern veil; and, in previous reigns, it had been used generally out of doors. But in Anne's time it had got to be associated with disreputable females, so much so that at concerts, and at Powel's puppet show, no person wearing a mask was admitted. They were still worn at the theatres, but scarcely by ladies. Still they were worn sometimes even by them, on the first night of a play, in case there might be any allusion, which might afterwards be excised, which would make them blush. They were not expensive luxuries.
No change in Government the Women stop. For Eighteen Pence in Velvet sets them up.[229]
[Footnote 229: Epilogue to The Modish Husband, ed. 1702.]
Seeing the class by whom they were worn, people having them on were naturally liable to insult. The following illustrates the manners of the time: 'An Arch Country Bumpkin having pick'd up a Frog in some of the adjacent Ditches, peeping into the Coach as he pass'd by, and being very much affronted that they hid their Faces with their Masks, Ads blood, Says he, you look as ugly in those black Vizards as my Toad here; e'en get you all together, tossing on't into the Coach: At which the frightened Lady birds Squeak'd out, open'd the Coach Doors, and leap'd among the throng, to shun their loathsome Companion.'[230]
[Footnote 230: London Spy.]
Of course, when the commode was worn, no other head-covering could be worn with it; but, when it came to be lowered, and almost disappear, a graceful fashion came up of scarves or hoods, and thus bright colours are alluded to more than once by contemporary writers, especially in the Spectator:[231] 'I took notice of a little Cluster of Women sitting together in the prettiest colour'd Hoods that I ever saw. One of them was Blue, another Yellow, and another Philomot;[232] the fourth was of a Pink Colour, and the fifth was of a pale Green. I looked with as much pleasure upon this little party Coloured Assembly, as upon a Bed of Tulips, and did not know at first whether it might not be an Embassy of Indian Queens,' etc. Whatever made Steele attack the hood as he did in a manner so scurrilous, and utterly unlike him?--though, after all, his objurgations are directed more against the cloak than the hood.
[Footnote 231: No. 265.]
[Footnote 232: Feuille-mort.]
Your Hoods and Cloaths or rather Riding Hoods Were first invented to steal People's Goods-- For when their Wearers came with a Pretence To Buy--Tho' looking with much Innocence, Lace, Silk, or Muslin privately they steal And under those same Cloaks their Theft Conceal.[233]
[Footnote 233: Female Folly, or the Plague of a Woman's Riding Hood and Cloak, 1713.]
The tall broad-brimmed hat (which still exists in Wales, only made in beaver) of James the First's reign was still used by country women, and the poorer class in towns. Ward, talking of an 'Assembly of Fat Motherly Flat Caps' at Billingsgate, says: 'Their Chief clamour was against High Heads and Patches; and said it would have been a very good Law, if Q. Mary had effected her design, and brought the proud Minks's of the Town, to have worn High Crownd Hats instead of Top Knots.'[234] And in 'Tunbridge Walks': 'Oh! the joys of a Country life, to mind one's Poultry, and one's Dairy, and the pretty business of milking a Cow, then, the soft diversions of riding on Horseback, or going to a Bull baiting, and the Charming Conversation of High Crown'd Hats, who can talk of nothing but their Hogs and their Husbands.'
[Footnote 234: London Spy.]
Furs were worn, and of course duly lost. From one advertisement we get to know the name of 'a Sable Tippit or Zar;' and from another we learn something of its shape, 'a round Sable Tippet, about 2 yards long, the Sable pretty deep and dark, with a piece of black Silk in the Square of the neck.' They also had muffs, not only of feathers, as we have already seen, but of fur of all sorts, from otter skin to 'the Cats' fur. But ladies did not go out more than they could help, either in cold or wet weather. The streets were so bad, and, although to them was accorded the 'umberellow' (for it was far too effeminate a thing for men to carry, no Jonas Hanway having yet arisen), yet they did not stir out unless obliged; and it was only
The tuck'd up sempstress walks with hasty strides While Streams run down her oil'd umbrella's sides.[235]
[Footnote 235: The Tatler, No. 238.]
Curious clumsy things these old umbrellas must have been. For a man to have used one, he would have deserved, and received, some such satire as 'The Young gentleman belonging to the Custom House, that for fear of rain borrowed the Umbrella at Will's Coffee House in Cornhill of the Mistress, is hereby advertised that to be dry from head to foot on the like occasion he shall be welcome to the Maid's Pattens.'[236]
[Footnote 236: The Female Tatler, Dec. 12.]
Good Huswives all the Winter's Rage despise, Defended by the Riding Hood's Disguise; Or underneath th' Umbrella's oily Shed, Safe thro' the Wet on clinking Pattens tread. Let Persian Dames th' Umbrella's Ribs display, To guard their Beauties from the sunny Ray; Or sweating Slaves support the shady Load, When Eastern Monarchs shew their State abroad; Britain in Winter only knows its Aid, To guard from chilly Show'rs the walking Maid. But O! forget not, Muse, the Patten's Praise, That female Implement shall grace thy Lays; Say from what Art Divine th' Invention came, And from its Origine deduce the name.[237]
[Footnote 237: Trivia, book 1.]
And then Gay tells the legend of how Vulcan fell in love with Martha (or Patty), the daughter of a Lincolnshire yeoman; how to save her feet from the cold and wet he studded her shoes with nails; but still she had a cold and lost her voice, until he hit upon the happy idea of the 'patten' the use of which completely restored her to health, and
The Patten now supports each frugal Dame, Which from the blue ey'd Patty takes the name.
But we must not forget that potent weapon in woman's armoury, the fan.
The Fan shall flutter in all Female Hands, And various Fashions learn from various lands, For this, shall Elephants their Iv'ry shed; And polished Sticks the waving Engine spread: His clouded Mail the Tortoise shall resign, And round the Rivet pearly Circles shine. On this shall Indians all their Art employ, And with bright Colours stain the gaudy Toy; Their Paint shall Here in wildest Fancies flow, Their Dress, their Customs, their Religion show, So shall the British Fair their minds improve, And on the Fan to distant Climates rove. Here shall the Chinese Dame her Pride display, And silver Figures gild her loose Array; She boasts her little Feet and winking Eyes, And tunes the Fife, or tinkling Cymbal plies; Here Cross leg'd Nobles in rich State shall dine, When on the Floor large painted Vessels shine, For These, O China, shall thy Realms be sought, With These, shall Europe's mighty Ships be fraught, Thy glitt'ring Earth shall tempt their Ladies Eyes, Who for thy brittle Jars shall Gold despise. Gay France shall make the Fan her Artists' Care, And with the Costly Trinket arm the Fair. ............................................. While Widows seek once more the Nuptial State, And wrinkled Maids repent their Scorn too late, As long as youthful Swains shall Nymphs deceive, And easie Nymphs those youthful Swains believe, While Beaus in Dress consume the tedious Morn, So long the Fan shall Female Hands adorn.[238]
[Footnote 238: The Fan, by Gay, ed. 1714.]
To anyone interested in the use of the fan at this period, a perusal of Addison's article in the Spectator (No. 102) is recommended: it is too long for reproduction here, and would be thoroughly spoilt by merely making use of extracts from it. They seem to have been seldom lost, or if so, were not of sufficient value to advertise--in fact, I have only met with one advertisement, 'A painted Landskip Fann, cutt, gilded Sticks,' and for this a reward of 7_s._ 6_d._ was offered. That they were largely imported is evident by the following notice: 'For Sale by the Candle, at the Marine Coffee House in Birchin Lane &c.--Forty Thousand Fans of Sundry Sorts;' but these most probably were either Chinese, Japanese, or Indian palm fans.
Before closing the subject of women's costumes the 'Mob' must be noticed--that dress of which Swift writes: 'The ladies were all in Mobs; how do you call it?--undressed.'[239] This negligent costume, of which no actual contemporary description seems to exist, is never mentioned except to be decried--as, for instance, the question is asked, 'How is a man likely to relish his wife's society when he comes home and finds her slovenly, in a Mob?' And there were one or two other articles of dress not usually mentioned, and not described, as 'Women's laced Head Cloaths commonly called Quaker's Pinners' and 'Dowds.'
[Footnote 239: Journal to Stella, letter 11.]
What woman could exist without shopping nowadays? And the habit was the same among the ladies of Queen Anne's time. The Female Tatler (1709) gives us the following graphic description of shopping: 'This afternoon some ladies, having an opinion of my fancy in Cloaths, desired me to accompany them to Ludgate Hill, which I take it to be as agreeable an amusement as a lady can pass away three or four hours in. The shops are perfect gilded theatres, the variety of wrought silks so many changes of fine scenes, and the Mercers are the performers in the Opera; and instead of "vivitur ingenio," you have in gold capitals "No trust by retail." They are the sweetest, fairest, nicest, dished out creatures; and by their elegant and soft speeches, you would guess them to be Italians. As people glance within their doors, they salute them with--Garden silks, ladies, Italian Silks, brocades, tissues, cloth of Silver, or cloth of Gold, very fine Mantua Silks, any right Geneva velvet, English velvet, velvet embossed. And to the meaner sort--Fine thread satins both striped and plain, fine mohair silk, satinnets, burdets, Persianets, Norwich Crapes, anterines, silks for hoods and scarves, hair camlets, druggets or sagathies, gentlemen's nightgowns ready made, shallons, durances, and right Scotch plaids.
'We went into a shop which had three partners; two of them were to flourish out their silks; and after an obliging smile and a pretty mouth made, Cicero like, to expatiate on their goodness; and the other's sole business was to be gentleman usher of the shop, to stand completely dressed at the door, bow to all the coaches that pass by, and hand ladies out and in.
'We saw abundance of gay fancies, fit for Sea Captain's wives, Sheriff's feasts, and Taunton dean ladies.[240] This, Madam, is wonderfully charming. This, Madam, is so diverting a Silk. This, Madam--my stars! how cool it looks. But this, Madam.--Ye Gods! would I had 10,000 yards of it! Then gathers up a sleeve, and places it to your shoulders. It suits your Ladyship's face wonderfully well. When we had pleased ourselves, and bid him ten shillings a yard for what he asked fifteen; Fan me, ye winds, your lady ship rallies me! should I part with it at such a price, the weavers would rise upon the very Shop. Was you at the Park last night, Madam? Your ladyship shall abate me sixpence. Have you read the Tatler to day? &c.
[Footnote 240: Why Taunton dean ladies I am at a loss to say, unless, as Somersetshire was then considered as the 'ultima Thule' of civilisation, it is meant that the dresses were as fine and gaudy as a country belle would wear, in contradistinction to the better taste of her town-bred sister.]
'These fellows are positively the greatest fops in the kingdom; they have their toilets and their fine night gowns; their chocolate in the morning, and their green tea two hours after; Turkey polts for their dinner; and their perfumes, washes, and clean linen, equip them for the Parade.'
We get a glimpse at the prices of silk dresses in the following advertisement: 'The Silk Gowns formerly sold in Exchange Alley, are removed to the sign of the Hood and Scarf, directly over against Will's Coffee House in Cornhill, where any Gentleman or Lady may be furnished with any Size or Price, there being all Sorts of Silks, from rich Brocades of 7 Guineas Price to Thread Sattin Gowns of 37_s._,' etc.
Besides the stuffs described in the Female Tatler, there were 'Silver Tishea, Pudsway Silks, Shaggs, Tabbeys, Mowhairs, Grazets, Brochés, Flowered Damasks, Flowered Lustrings, ditto striped and plain, Sarsnets, Italian Mantuas, Silk Plushes, Farendines, Shagreen, Poplins, Silk Crapes and Durants'; whilst among the woollen goods were 'Hair and Woollen Camlets, Hair Plushes, Spanish and English Druggets, Serge Denims, Calamancoes, Russels, Serges, Shalloons, Tammeys, Ratteens, and Salapeens.' Ladies' black broadcloth cost 13_s._ 6_d._ per yard, fine scarlet 15_s._ 6_d._, and superfine do. 17_s._ 6_d._
Of Indian stuffs there is a formidable list, and as the names are curious, and are probably lost and forgotten, I reproduce them:--
Bafts Baguzzees Ponabaguzzees Chelloes Chints Do. Persia Do. Culme Do. Mamoodies Do. Romalls Betellees. Oringal Coopees Doreas Gorgorans Mahmudhiattees Peniascoes Seersuckers Terrindams Callowaypoose Deribands Guinea stuffs Mamoodies Niccannees Pallampores Quilts Sallampores Sovaguzzees Tapsiels Byrampants Cuttannees Doorguzzees Gurrahs Mickbannies Rehings Tepoys Jamwars Romalls Nillaes Soofeys China cherrys Goaconcheleras Cherriderrys Elatches Gurracs Humhums Bulchauls Cushlahs Emerties Humadees Moorees Seerbettees Tanjeebs Anjengo Izzarees Sannoes Coffees Allejars Atlasses Cuttances Carradarries Photaes Pelongs Cheaconines Chucklaes Gelongs Jamdannies Mulmuls Shalbafts Tainsooks Brawles Seerbetties Paunches Palampores Sooseys Addatties Allibannies Aubrowahs Bafraes Bejurapauts Betellees Chowtars Culgees Ginghams Luckhouries Neganepants Seerbands Taffaties Doodamies Succatums
Having a Queen upon the throne--one that kept her Court, and dressed well--lace was naturally an article in demand. The Queen was somewhat moderate at her Coronation, for her point lace only came to £64 13_s._ 9_d._ It was Flanders lace, and was allowed to be imported, provided it was not made in 'the dominions of the French king.' Mechlin and Brussels lace first made their appearance in this reign, and, in 1710, the Queen paid £151 for twenty-six yards of fine edged Brussels lace. Indeed, Brussels lace was somewhat dear: 'One Brussels Head is valued at £40; a grounded Brussels head £30; one looped Brussels £30.' 'Lost betwixt Hemming's Row and Owin Street near Leicester Fields, a Tin Box with Lace; whoever brings it to Mrs. Beck at the Angel and Star in Fleet Street shall have £10 Reward and no Questions ask'd.' '9 pieces of fine Bone Lace belonging to a Person of Quality' were also lost, and £10 reward offered. This lace does not always seem to have been made of thread, for, 'Whereas two pieces of Silver Bone lace, was brought to a shop in Winchester Street to be weighed, the Lace being suppos'd to be stol'n, is stoped.' Four pieces of 'Macklin' lace, lost, induced a reward of five guineas, and the finder of three pieces of 'Brussels edging Lace' is supposed to be tempted by the offer of 10_s._ to bring them back.
We have read in the robbery from Mr. Paggen's of a number of garments with gold and silver lace, and with silver 'Orrices,' and the use of bullion lace grew to such an extent, that in 1711, its entry was forbidden under pain of forfeiture, and a fine of £100.
The linen of this reign was finer, and better, than in those preceding, and one linen draper of the time has handed his name down to posterity, viz. 'Thomas Doyley at the Nun in Henrietta Street, Covent Garden.' A list of the linens then in vogue, is, as far as I can learn, as follows: 'White and Brown Osnabrigs, Dowlas's, Kentings, Muslins, Bed ticks, Garlets, Spotted Lawns, Sletias, Harford Blue, White Shorks, Holland, Cambricks, Gentings, Callicoes, Damask, Diaper, Huckabacks, Dimmities.'
Of these 'fine double threaded Cottons for Sheetings' was 12_d._ per yard and muslin 5_s._ 6_d._
The 'Tally Man' was an institution in those days, and was well known. His handbills remain, and there is a singular unanimity among them; with one voice they make Monday the day for purchases and payments. The reason for this is obvious; at that early period of the week the Saturday's earnings ought not to be spent. As a rule, the terms were, 'Paying one shilling a Week for Thirty Shillings, untill the Sum is paid for which they Contract.' One gentleman sticks up for his dignity, and begs you to 'Note. That these goods are not to be sold by a Tally man, but the Money is to be taken by Weekly, or Monthly Payments, according as it shall be agreed upon for the Ease of the Customers.' This system was as pernicious then as now, only, as the law of arrest for debt was in full force, the prisons held plenty of victims.
It was not a particularly ostentatious age for jewellery, and we can get a good idea of what was worn, by one or two advertisements of lost property. 'Stolen the 11th of this Instant February 1703[241] between 6 and 7 of the clock at night, from the Golden Buck in Lombard Street, a Show Glass, in which, besides several things not remembr'd, were these Particulars, viz. A gold Moco[242] Stone Chain set in Gold with a Crown at the top. One Grain Gold Watch Chain mark't C. O. One large Saphyre loose and 1 a little less. One string of Pearls from 2 Grains to 5 or 6 Grains a piece; one large Pearl with a large Hole in it, about 12 Grains, with several other loose Pearls; with several Diamond Rings, Rubies and Garnet Grislets set in the Middle. One very large Sized Ring, with 12 Diamonds, one being out, with an Ametheist broke in the middle. One fine Medal of Cardinal Richelieu; one Smaller Gold Medal with two Heads. Several Stone and plain Lockets, and Gold Hearts, with Stones on the top to open. One Gold Chain with three links, links and end, 15 d. wt. and one Brilliant Diamond Ring, set round with 8 Diamonds in the middle; one longish Diamond weighing about 2 grains and a half, or 3 at most. One large Garnet set in Gold to hang to a Watch, and several Hoops and Joints markt T. S. Several Gold Rings set with Turky and Vermillions. Several Gold Buttons, some plain and some set with Moco Stones, and a Cornelian Ring Set. One pair of plain Gold Buttons link'd with a Chain nock fashion'd, 8. d. weight and half. Several false Stone Ear Rings, and Rings of several Colours, set in Gold. One pair of Ear Rings, Diamonds and Drops, value about 4_l._ 10_s_. Several right Garnet Ear Rings set in Gold with Drops. Two red Watch Bottles rib'd with Gold. Several gilt Watch Bottles and other Toys. One gilt Coral with a double branch. One Necklace with Pearls and Vermillions; one Moco Stone Bracelet, 1 large piece of Coral, weight 1 Ounce 8 p. wt., a plain gold Socket to it, 14 or 15 p. wt., 1 Cornelian set in Gold, and very finely enamelled, 3 or 4 Cornelian Seals set strong in Gold, several Gold Ear Rings with Tops and Drops to 'em, 1 little Padlock in Gold and Silver and a Gold Key, and several Corellionel Keys, &c.'
[Footnote 241: In reality it was 1704. In the old style of reckoning 1704 did not begin till the 25th of March, and the London Gazette of this reign always kept to the old style.]
[Footnote 242: 'Moco' stones are what are now called moss agates.]
'Lost, &c. A Gold Watch made by Richards, with a Gold Seal and Cornelion set in it, a Griffin Rampant ingrav'd thereon, a pair of Drops hanging at the end of the Chain; a Rumphlet[243] of Diamonds set in Silver and gilt. 2 Necklaces of Pearl, 1 middling, the other small; 1 Diamond Ring containing 7 stones set in Gold. 1 Mourning Ring mark'd H. G. in a Silver Box.' 'A Bristow Stone[244] Necklace set in Silver.'
[Footnote 243: See ante, 'Rumps.']
[Footnote 244: Probably what we call 'Bristol diamonds.']
There was lost a very interesting memorial ring, to which, in those Jacobite days, no doubt a particular value was attached. 'A Gold ring with 7 Diamonds in the form of a Rose, which opens, and within the effigies of K. Charles I. Enamelled, next the finger is C. R. with a Death's Head in the middle.'
Diamonds were much worn, and frequently lost. For the following, a reward of 10 per cent. of their value was offered. 'Lost &c. 42 loose Diamonds, some of them large, belonging to a Necklace, and two with holes made behind for Screws to be put in, all strung on a white silk; and two Tags with 16 small Diamonds.' For the next 100_l._ was offered, or proportionate sums for portions. 'Lost by a Person of Quality, a Diamond Cross of 6 Brilliant Diamonds and a large Brilliant Stone loose in a Collet. The middle stone in the Cross weighs 10 grains, and the other 5 together 29 grains, and the Diamond in the Collet 15 grains or there abouts.'
The greatest loss of diamonds in this reign was the following, for which a reward of 1,000 guineas, and the Queen's pardon, was offered. 'Whereas there were brought from India in the Ship Albemarle (which was driven ashore at Pielpora near Plimouth about the 9th of this instant December) Five Bulses of Diamonds, which are pretending to be missing or lost.... Amongst which said Diamonds was one very uncommon, remarkable Diamond, viz. One cut Table Stone of the first Water, and in all Perfection, weighing about 26 Carrats and a Quarter, and one Pointed rough Stone weighing about 18 Carrats and a Quarter; and one other rough Stone weighing about 21 Carrats, a Point some thing fallen, Christalline, White and Clean.'[245] One is glad to read in 'Luttrel's Diary,' January 15, 1709, 'Part of the Diamonds missing out of the Ship Albemarle are found, and brought to the Secretary's Office.'
[Footnote 245: London Gazette, Dec. 23/27, 1708.]
'Lost April 23 (1702) upon the day of Her Majesty's Coronation, in or near Westminster Hall, a Diamond Stomacher, with a Row of Rose Diamonds down the Middle, with knots of small Rose Diamonds on each side; in the setting there being a joint between each knot; they being all set in Silver, and sow'd upon black Ribbon. Lost also at the same time one large Rose Diamond set in Silver, and fastened to a Bodkin.'
The Queen herself lost some diamonds on this memorable occasion, but nothing of great value, as only ten guineas were offered as a reward. 'Whereas there was Ten Small Diamonds singly set in Silver, but made up together into a Sprig fastened by a Wire, which were lost from Her Majesty's Robes in the Procession upon the Coronation Day,' etc. This, however, was not the only loss the Queen suffered during her reign, some of her subjects conceiving a violent affection for her plate--vide the following advertisements. 'Whereas several pieces of Plate, as Dishes, Trencher Plates, Knives, forks, spoons and salts, together with Pewter of all Sorts, Table Linen and other Necessaries, which were provided and used in Westminster Hall at her Majesty's Coronation Feast on 23 Inst., have been taken away from thence, and are yet concealed,'[246] etc. 'Lost last night, being the 10th of this Instant, January, the following Pieces of Plate, viz, a large Monteith[247] with the Queen's Arms; a Salver, with the Royal Arms; 3 Salts Nurl'd; 4 Spoons, with W. R. in a Cypher, and a Crown over them; One Plate with the late King's Arms, and W. R.; the bottom of a Mustard Caster, with A. R. in a Cypher, and a Crown over it.'[248] 'Lost at Somerset House, at the Entertainment of the Venetian Ambassadors, one of Her Majesty's Knurl'd Dishes, weight 52 Ounces, and one Silver Mazerine, Weight 20 Ounces, both engrav'd with His late Majesty's Arms.'[249] 'Lost from Her Majesty's Palace at Windsor, on Sunday the 4th Instant, Two Silver Trencher Plates of Her Majesty's Engraven'd A. R. and the Arms of England before the Union.'
[Footnote 246: Ibid. Jan. 8/11, 1704-5.]
[Footnote 247: A Monteith was a kind of punch-bowl, with scallops or indentations in the brim, the object of which was to convert it into a convenient tray for bringing in the wine-glasses. These being placed with the brims downwards, radiating from the centre, and with the handles protruding through the indentations in the bowl, were easily carried without much jingling or risk of breaking. Of course the bowl would then be empty of liquor.
'New things produce new words, and thus Monteith Has by one Vessel, sav'd his name from Death.' Dr. King's Art of Cookery, etc., p. 37.]
[Footnote 248: London Gazette, May 26/29, 1707.]
[Footnote 249: Ibid. Oct. 20/24, 1713.]
The plate of this reign was heavy and cumbrous, and of very little artistic merit. It was greatly in use, and was an outward and visible sign of its owner's wealth. To such an extent did its use obtain, that taverns were ordered not to have silver tankards, the temptation to steal them being so great.
Ladies occasionally wore chatelaines in the street, and lost them, whilst they seem only to have worn their watches for the sake of losing their outer case, judging by the numbers of advertisements. Being worn outside, there was nothing easier to steal. Not the whole watch; oh no! but gently to press the spring, and the gold case was in the thief's possession, with next door to no risk. They were absolutely asking to be stolen. Even the little children must needs be decked out with watches and chains. 'Whereas a Gold Watch, with a Gold Chain with 6 lockets, one of them with a Cypher L. T. set with Pearl and Green Stones, was lost from a Childe 11 years old.' 'Stop't, a Child's Gold Chain suppos'd to be stolen.' 'Cut off from a Child's neck yesterday, a Gold Chain, four times about her Neck.' 'Taken from a Child, a Gold Chain with this Motto, Memento Mori.' 'Lost from a Child's side, a Silver Scissor Case, Open Work, with Scissors in them; to it a Chain and flat Hook gilt with Gold.'
XV. FOOD
(SOLID.)
English fare -- Time of dining -- Pontack's -- Other ordinaries -- Books on Cookery -- Receipts -- Pudding -- Fish -- Oysters -- Poultry -- Assize of bread -- Markets -- Vegetables -- Lambeth gardeners -- Fruit -- Dried fruit.
In the matter of food, people were not gourmets as a rule. The living was plentiful, but plain, and a dinner was never more than two courses; as Addison wrote, 'two plain dishes, with two or three good natured, chearful, ingenious friends, would make me more pleased and vain than all that pomp and luxury can bestow;' and this sentiment pervaded the whole of society. Dinner is almost the only meal ever mentioned, and one looks in vain for details of breakfast or supper. They were taken, of course, but men, then, did not sufficiently deify their stomachs, as to be always talking about them: dinner was the meal of the day, and there is no doubt that the most was made of that opportunity. Misson says: 'The English eat a great deal at dinner; they rest a while, and to it again, till they have quite stuff'd their Paunch. Their Supper is moderate: Gluttons at Noon, and abstinent at Night. I always heard they were great Flesh eaters, and I found it true. I have known several people in England that never eat any Bread, and universally they eat very little: they nibble a few crumbs, while they chew the Meat by whole Mouthfuls. Generally speaking, the English Tables are not delicately serv'd. There are some Noblemen that have both French and English Cooks, and these eat much after the French manner; but among the middling Sort of People they have ten or twelve Sorts of common Meats, which infallibly take their Turns at their Tables, and two Dishes are their Dinners: a Pudding, for instance, and a Piece of Roast Beef; another time they will have a piece of Boil'd Beef, and then they salt it some Days before hand, and besiege it with five or six Heaps of Cabbage, Carrots, Turnips, or some other Herbs or Roots, well pepper'd and salted, and swimming in Butter: A Leg of roast or boil'd Mutton, dish'd up with the same dainties, Fowls, Pigs, Ox Tripes, and Tongues, Rabbits, Pidgeons, all well moistened with Butter, without larding: Two of these Dishes, always serv'd up one after the other, make the usual Dinner of a Substantial Gentleman, or wealthy Citizen. When they have boil'd Meat, there is sometimes one of the Company that will have the Broth; this is a kind of Soup, with a little Oatmeal in it, and some Leaves of Thyme or Sage, or other such small Herbs. They bring up this in as many Porringers as there are People that desire it; those that please, crumble a little Bread into it, and this makes a kind of Potage.'
Here, then, we have a very graphic, and evidently unbiassed, account of the cuisine of this reign. Two o'clock seems to have been the middle-class time of dining, but people with any pretension to fashion dined later. 'Why does any Body Dine before Four a Clock in London? For my Part, I think it an ill bred Custom to make my Appetite Pendulum to the Twelfth Hour. Besides, 'tis out of Fashion to Dine by Day light.'[250] And Steele, writing about 'Rakes,' says: 'All the noise towards six in the evening is caused by his mimics and imitators;'[251] thus leading to the inference that, dinner being at four, and wine being plentifully drunk after it, they rose from table half drunk, and went noisily to the coffee-houses.
[Footnote 250: The Basset Table.]
[Footnote 251: Tatler, No. 27.]
This, probably, was the case at such a place as Pontack's, which held the first rank among the restaurants of the time. It was situated in Abchurch Lane, and was said to have derived its name from Pontack, a president of the Parliament of Bordeaux, who gave his name to the best French clarets; but this could hardly be the case, as all contemporary writers call the proprietor Pontack. Misson speaks in high terms of the place. Swift writes to Stella: 'I was this day in the City, and dined at Pontack's with Stratford, and two other merchants. Pontack told us, although his wine was so good, he sold it cheaper than others, he took but seven shillings a flask;' and again, 'I dined in the City at Pontack's with Stratford; it Cost me Seven Shillings.' 'Would you think that little lap dog in Scarlet there, has Stomach enough to digest a Guinea's worth of Entertainment at Pontack's every Dinner Time?'[252] 'Mr. Montgomery said you had better go to Pontack's, Gentlemen, I think there is none here but knows Pontack's, it is one of the greatest Ordinaries in England.'[253] 'Your great Supper lies on my Stomach still, I defie Pontack to have prepar'd a better o' th' sudden.'[254]
[Footnote 252: Works of T. Brown.]
[Footnote 253: An Account of the Behaviour, Confession and last Dying Speech of Sir John Johnson.]
[Footnote 254: Lying Lover.]
There were others nearly as good.
At Locket's,[255] Brown's and at Pontack's enquire, What modish Kick shaws the nice Beaus desire, What famed Ragoust, what new invented Salate Has best pretentions to regale the Palate.[256]
[Footnote 255: Charing Cross.]
[Footnote 256: Prologue to Centlivre's Love's Contrivance.]
Ward describes a tavern ordinary well; he is in his element; but to give his description would take up too much room. On entering the bar, the principal person visible was the dame de comptoir, 'all Ribbons, Lace and Feathers.' Having passed her, and taken a seat at the table, he had 'a Whet of Old Hock' to sharpen his appetite for dinner, which consisted of two calves' heads, a couple of geese, and Cheshire cheese; after which they all fell to a-drinking wine.
There were cheaper places, or ordinaries, than these to dine at. 'I went afterwards to Robin's,[257] and saw People who had dined with me at the Five penny Ordinary just before, give Bills for the Value of large Estates;'[258] and twopenny ordinaries are mentioned, but they must have been for the very poor.
[Footnote 257: A Stock Jobbing Coffee House in Change Alley.]
[Footnote 258: Spectator, No. 454.]
In spite of what Misson says, there was good cookery to be got, only it hardly came into ordinary life; and there are two cookery books[259] which give most excellent receipts, and show that there was plenty of variety, both in the material and cooking of food; nay, even in the elegances of the table, which were well cared for, as the following receipt of Howard's shows: 'How to dish up a Dish of Fruits with preserved Flowers.--Take a large Dish, cover it with another of the same bigness, and place the uppermost over with Paste of Almonds, inlaid with red, white, blue, and green Marmalade in the figure of Flowers and Banks; then take the branches of candied Flowers, and fix them upright in Order, and upon little Bushes erected, and covered with Paste: Fix your preserved and Candied Cherries, Plumbs, Pease, Apples, Goosberries, Currans, and the like, each in their proper place; and for Leaves, you may use Coloured Paste or Wax, Parchment, or Horn; and this, especially in Winter, will be very proper.' Some of the dishes he gives are hardly in vogue now; as for instance: 'Spinage Tarts.--Take Marrow, Spinage, hard Eggs, of each a handful, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Limon-peel shred very fine; then put in as many Currans as you think fit, with Raisins stoned, and shred, candied, Orange and Citron peel; sweeten it to your taste, make Puff Paste, and make them into little square Pasties; bake or fry them.'
[Footnote 259: England's Newest way in all Sorts of Cookery, etc., by Henry Howard, and 'Royal Cookery, or the Complete Court Cook, by Patrick Lamb, Esq. Near 50 years Master Cook to their late Majesties King Charles 2. King James 2. King William and Queen Mary, and to Her present Majesty Queen Anne.']
Perhaps few people now would care to make Mr. Lamb's 'Patty of Calves' Brains.--The Calves Brains being clean, scald them, then blanch some Asparagus, and put it in a Sauce pan, with a little Butter and Parsley; being Cold, put the Brains in the Patty, with the Asparagus, five or six Yolks of hard Eggs, and Forc'd Meat; season it with Pepper and Salt. When it is bak'd, add the Juce of a Lemon, drawn Butter and Gravy. So serve it.'
Listen to Misson's ecstasies over our national dish--the PUDDING. 'The Pudding is a Dish very difficult to be describ'd, because of the several Sorts there are of it; Flower, Milk, Eggs, Butter, Sugar, Suet, Marrow, Raisins, &c., &c., are the most common Ingredients of a Pudding. They bake them in an Oven, they boil them with Meat, they make them fifty several Ways: BLESSED BE HE THAT INVENTED PUDDING, for it is a Manna that hits the Palates of all Sorts of People: a Manna better than that of the Wilderness, because the People are never weary of it. Ah, what an excellent Thing is an English Pudding! To come in Pudding time, is as much as to say, to come in the most lucky Moment in the World.'[260]
[Footnote 260: There was 'the Royal Peace Pudding, Tickets 1_s._ each, Made on Thanksgiving Day, 1713, 9 feet long, 20-1/2 inches broad, and 6 inches deep,' and there were the famous 12_d._ Marrow puddings. Blood Puddings were also in vogue. See Trivia:--
'Blood stuff'd in Skins is British Christian Food, And France robs Marshes of the croaking Brood; Spongy Morells in strong Ragousts are found, And in the Soupe the slimy Snail is drown'd.']
Of fish he says: 'In Proportion Fish is dearer than any other Belly-timber at London;' and as a matter of fact we hear very little about it as an article of food. The country, inland, was of course entirely dependent upon fresh-water fish, such as carp, jack, perch, etc. The London market was at Billingsgate (which kept up its reputation for its peculiar vernacular), but that was also waterman's stairs, and a place of departure for boats; and here was sold whatever fish was brought to London. A little before every Lent came vessels loaded with salt cod, which were sold at 1_s._ 6_d._ to 2_s._ a couple, and sometimes at 1_d._ per lb. Mackerel, on account of its perishable nature, was allowed to be sold on Sunday, as Gay notes, 'Ev'n Sundays are prophan'd by Mackrell cries.'
From Billingsgate the fish was distributed to the various stalls throughout London:--
You'll see a draggled Damsel, here and there, From Billingsgate her fishy Traffick bear.
And these stalls are thus described:--
When fishy Stalls with double Store are laid; The golden belly'd Carp, the broad-finn'd Maid, Red speckled Trouts, the Salmon's silver Soul, The jointed Lobster, and unscaly Soale, And luscious 'Scallops, to allure the Tastes Of rigid Zealots to delicious Fasts; Wednesdays and Fridays you'll observe from hence, Days, when our Sires were doom'd to Abstinence.
Care was taken for the preservation of salmon, as the following notice shows: 'Whereas by divers ancient statutes made to prevent the Destruction of the Fry and Brood of Salmons, it is ordained, That none shall be taken in any of the Rivers or Waters, wherein Salmon is taken, between the 8th of September and the 11th of November; and that none shall be taken in the Waters in the County of Lancaster between the 29th of September and the 2d of February; and by a late Statute, That no Salmons shall be taken in the County of Southampton and the Southern Parts of Wiltshire between the 30th of June and the 11th of November, nor be exposed to Sale under the Penalties thereby provided: These are to give Notice that all Salmons taken out of their Seasons, and exposed to Sale in London, will be destroyed, as many lately have been, by the Rt. Hon. the Lord Mayor of the said City, as not fit to be sold for Victuals, being taken out of their Seasons, contrary to the Statutes afore mentioned: And that every Person bringing before the Lord Mayor such unseasonable Salmons, shall have a Reward for the same, to be paid by the Company of Fishmongers, London, as the Lord Mayor for the time being shall think fit.'[261]
[Footnote 261: London Gazette, Oct. 31/Nov. 4, 1706.]
Our River Thames, then, was really the habitat of good fish, for we read: 'A Sturgeon was taken the last Week in the River near Stepney, which the Lord Mayor sent as a Present to Her Majesty.'[262]
[Footnote 262: The English Post, June 5/8, 1702.]
It causes a sigh of regret to read of the great plenty, and wonderful cheapness, of real native oysters. They were then, as now, only considered fit to eat during the months with R in them; and Gay, speaking of autumn, says, as a sign of its arrival, 'And Damsels first renew their Oyster Cries'; and in another part of 'Trivia' he gives the following sound advice:--
If where Fleet Ditch with muddy Current flows, You chance to roam; where Oyster Tubs in Rows Are rang'd beside the Posts; there stay thy Haste, And with the sav'ry Fish indulge thy Taste: The Damsel's Knife the gaping Shell commands, While the salt Liquor streams between her Hands.
And they were wonderfully cheap, sold in the streets by the wheelbarrow men at 'Twelve Pence a Peck.' There was keen competition in them, and rival fishmongers advertised the superior excellence of their oysters. One will serve as a sample of the whole. 'Thomas West Fishmonger in Honey Lane Market near Blossom's Inn, gives notice, That all Persons who have occasion for the Choicest of Oysters called Colchester Oysters, may be supplied for this Season with the largest pick't Fat and Green for 3_s._ a Barrel; Those somewhat smaller at 2_s._ 6_d._ of the same sort; Fat and Green, of a lesser size for 2_s._ the Barrel: The large pickt, white, fat Oysters for 2_s._ 6_d._ The smaller white fat Oysters 1_s._ 8_d._ At all these Prizes I will sell the right Colchester Oysters, which, without considering their goodness beyond other sorts, are cheaper than the Town Wheel barrow Oysters: And that all Persons in City or Country, that send for them, may no ways be deceived of having the right sort, the prizes are all branded on the side of the Cask. Note, they are all branded at the Pits, where they are pickt, so that if there be any Cheat, it must be by the Oyster Man, which hath been too often practised to my Loss and their shameful Gain. My Oysters Comes in on Monday's, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays by Water Carriage. No Trader in the City or Suburbs having them come in so often, by reason of which, they will hold good the farthest Journey, to please the nicest Eater. Those that are not bought at my own Shop, will, by reason of the Extraordinary Charge be 2_d._ in a Barrel advanc'd; and all that are desirous to have them from my Shop, the same day that they come in of, they shall be delivered, if desired, as far as St. James for 2_d._ Temple Bar 1_d._ And all other places proportionable, and when all is said, I hope tryal will be your Satisfaction.'
Pickled oysters were also imported from Jersey, and sold at 1_s._ 8_d._ per hundred. Swift writes Stella[263] how 'Lord Masham made me go home with him to night to eat boiled oysters. Take Oysters, wash them clean, that is, wash their shells clean; then put your oysters in an earthen pot, with their hollow sides down, then put this pot covered, into a great Kettle with water, and so let them boil. Your oysters are boiled in their own liquor, and (do) not mix water.'
[Footnote 263: Journal, March 6, 1712.]
Poultry, with the exception of game, was the same as now; the only importation from foreign parts, seemingly, being ortolans, which were brought over in September of each year. The English ortolan, too, was keenly relished by epicures. 'You have a coarse stomach, and to such a one, a Surloin of Beef were better than a dish of Wheat ears.'[264]
[Footnote 264: The Virtuoso.]
For relishes, there were anchovies 8_d._ per lb., neats' tongues and York hams 6_d._ per lb.; but salt was somewhat dear. The home manufacture did not supply the whole demand, as now, and it was imported both from Portugal and France. Still, it was made at home. 'Whereas it hath been reported, that there was not a sufficient quantity of Salt made at Shirley wich, in the county of Stafford, to supply the customers that came for it. This is to give notice, that with the Additional Works, there is now twice the quantity made out of the new Pit, much better and stronger than was formerly.'[265]
[Footnote 265: Postman, June 9/12, 1705.]
Bread, as usual, was made the subject of legislation, and the following proclamation was issued:--
'London May 3.
'GARRARD. MAYOR.
_'Martis 2 do die Maii 1710. Annoque Reginæ 'Annæ Magnæ Britanniæ &c. Nono._
By Virtue of an Act Passed in the last Session of Parliament, Intituled, An Act to Regulate the Price and Assize of Bread, This Court doth Order and Appoint, That the Assize of all White, Wheaten and Household Bread, to be made of Wheat for Sale within this City and Liberties thereof, shall for the future be Penny, Two Penny, Six Penny, Twelve Penny, and Eighteen Penny Loaves, and no other; and that on every Loaf be fairly Imprinted or Marked, several Letters for Knowing the Price and Sort thereof, as followeth, that is to say
| _Finestor | Wheaten. | Houshold. | White._ | | On every Penny Loaf | I. F. | I. W. | I. H. Two Penny Loaf | II. F. | II. W. | II. H. Six Penny Loaf | | VI. W. | VI. H. Twelve Penny Loaf | | XII. W. | XII. H. Eighteen Penny Loaf | | XVIII. W. | XVIII. H.
And in further Pursuance of the said Act, this Court doth appoint, That the Assize and Weight of the said Bread shall be as followeth.
| White. | Wheaten. | Houshold. | Lb. Oz. Dr. | Lb. Oz. Dr. | Lb. Oz. Dr. The Penny Loaf to Weigh by | | | Avoirdepois or Common Weight| -- 4. 3. | -- 6. 5. | -- 8. 7. The Two Penny Loaf | -- 8. 7. | -- 12. 10. | 1. 0. 14. The Six Penny Loaf | -- -- -- | 2. 5. 15. | 3. 2. 9. The Twelve Penny Loaf | -- -- -- | 4. 11. 13. | 6. 5. 2. The Eighteen Penny Loaf | -- -- -- | 7. 1. 11. | 9. 7. 11.
Whereof all Bakers and others concern'd are to take Notice, and to Observe the same under the Penalties in the said Act contained to be inflicted on all such who shall Neglect so to do.
'Note, That 16 Drams make One Ounce and 16 Ounces One Pound.
'GIBSON.'
And so they continued to regulate the price, according to the fluctuations of the corn market.
Milk was produced from cows kept in London, and was carried round by women, or milkmaids, as they were called.
On Doors the sallow Milkmaid chalks her Gains; Ah! how unlike the Milkmaid of the Plains!
And the milch-asses went their daily rounds. Asses' milk was in great request, and many were the advertisements of milch-asses for sale. Its price was 3_s._ 6_d._ per quart.
Before proud Gates attending Asses bray, Or arrogate with solemn pace the Way; These grave Physicians with their milky Chear, The Love sick Maid, and dwindling Beau repair.
Butter was got from the surrounding villages, but already there was a trade in this article with Ireland, for on August 14, 1705, was sold at the Marine Coffee House thirty-eight casks of Irish butter and forty-nine casks of Irish beef.
There were several markets in London, each with its specialty.
Shall the large Mutton smoke upon your Boards? Such Newgate's copious Market best affords; Would'st thou with mighty Beef augment thy Meal? Seek Leaden hall; Saint James's sends thee Veal. Thames street gives Cheeses; Covent garden Fruits; Moor fields old Books; and Monmouth Street old Suits.
Vegetables were principally supplied from the Lambeth market gardens, which are thus mentioned by Steele[266]: 'When we first put off from Shore, we soon fell in with a Fleet of Gardeners bound for the several Market Ports of London; and it was the most pleasing Scene imaginable to see the Chearfulness with which those industrious People ply'd their Way to a certain Sale of their Goods. The Banks on each Side are as well peopled, and beautified with as agreeable Plantations, as any Spot on the Earth; but the Thames itself, loaded with the Product of each Shore, added very much to the Landskip. It was very easie to observe by their Sailing, and the Countenances of the ruddy Virgins who were Supercargoes, the Parts of the Town to which they were bound. There was an air in the Purveyors for Covent Garden, who frequently converse with Morning Rakes, very unlike the seemly Sobriety of those bound for Stocks Market.'
[Footnote 266: Spectator, No. 454.]
Neither Ward nor Brown viewed the Lambeth gardeners in such a couleur-de-rose aspect; and haply they described the scene more accurately. The former says: 'A scoundrel crew of Lambeth Gardeners attacked us with such a Volley of saucy Nonsence, that it made my Eyes stare, my Head ake, my Tongue run, and my Ears tingle.' Brown tells us that 'the next diverting Scene that the River afforded us, was a very warm Engagement between a Western Barge, and a Boat full of Lambeth Gardeners, by whom Billingsgate was much outdone in stupendious Obscenity, tonitrous Verbosity, and malicious Scurrility, as if one side had been Daniel D--f--'s[267] Party, and the other the Observator's.' And they both give examples of this bargee slang, which, it is needless to say, are utterly unfit for reproduction.
[Footnote 267: Daniel Defoe.]
From these market gardens came the 'Asparagrass' and 'Sallary,'[268] the 'Apricocks' and those melons which the Spectator noted were consigned by Mr. Cuffe of Nine Elms to Sarah Sewell and Company, at their stall in Covent Garden.
[Footnote 268: Potatoes in any large quantity were 1/2_d._ per lb.]
Misson says, 'Fruit is brought only to the Tables of the Great, and of a small number even among them. The Desert they never dream of, unless it be a Piece of Cheese.' That possibly was correct, but still a great deal of fruit was eaten. The Daily Courant of Feb. 20, 1714, mentions the following--Pears: 'Bon chrestien,' 'Mesir jean,' 'Beuré.' Apples: 'Pomme Royal,' 'Pomme Dâpy,' 'Reinette Grise,' and the 'Magdelaine' peach. We also see that
Wallnutts the Fruit'rer's Hand, in Autumn stain, Blue Plumbs, and juicy Pears augment his Gain; Next Oranges the longing Boys entice, To trust their Copper Fortunes to the Dice.
'Lisbon, China Oranges, and Sower Oranges' were sold in Love Lane, near Billingsgate; as were also 'a Parcel of Pot China Oranges, of a pleasant taste and flavour, landed out of the Lisbon Fleet, now a delivering.' Oranges were favourite trees to grow here, and one advertisement mentions 7,000 of them for sale. The retail price of oranges was not excessive, considering the restricted commerce, and the small tonnage of the shipping. 'We have the finest oranges for two pence a piece,' writes Swift.
The foreign fruit market was, as now, near Billingsgate, and here were sold olives, raisins, currants, French 'Pruants,' and the choicer sorts of French dry fruits, 'Pears of Rousselet, of Champagne, Prunes of Tours, and Muscadine Grapes,' 'Candid Maderas Citrons, and Sweet Barbary Almonds.'